Lupe – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-25-23)

Days 1 & 2, and Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-23-23, 11:30 AM, 82ºF – On her pink blanket atop pillows and various gear, the Carolina Dog was excited!

Ready to roll whenever you are, SPHP!

If I’ve forgotten anything else, we’re just going to have to buy it somewhere along the way. Show time, sweet puppy!

Turning the key, SPHP backed the RAV4 out of the driveway. Lupe’s grand and glorious 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska was underway!

Stops to sniff the air and stretch were few and far between on this first day. Lupe kept a nose out for cows and horses, but there didn’t seem to be as many of them this year. Probably huddled around whatever water or shade they could find. All through Wyoming, temperatures were in the mid-90’s °F as the RAV4 raced W along I-90.

Montana was an oven! 101ºF when SPHP dashed into Albertson’s in Billings to grab an 8-piece baked chicken deal. No time to get anything else in there, or the American Dingo would have baked, too, stuck in the RAV4 without the AC on, even with the windows down.

7-23-23, 8:28 PM – At 73ºF, conditions in the Little Belt Mountains were much more tolerable by the time Lupe bounded out of the RAV4 full of enthusiasm.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)! Love it here, SPHP! Any preference? Want to climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) first?

Sun will be down soon, Loop, so we only have time for one or the other this evening. How about Kings Hill? We can do Porphyry in the morning.

Shortly after cutting through the forest up to USFS Road No. 487, thunder rumbled in the distance. Lightning played among the dark clouds to the S, and a light rain began to fall.

7-23-23, 9:07 PM, 68ºF, Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) – The rain was already over and done with by the time the American Dingo reached the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. An orange glow was on the WNW horizon, and some of the clouds overhead glittered like gold.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from **Kings Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

By the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Looks promising! Maybe there’s going to be a nice sunset, SPHP?

You might be right, Looper. Let’s go over by the edge to watch the show.

Going a little down the WNW slope, Lupe sat watching the developing display. The air was cool, fresh, and the clearest it had ever been on any of Lupe’s prior visits to Kings Hill.

The sunset turned out to be the best one ever, too.

Sunset from **Kings Hill**. **Porphyry Peak** (L). Photo looks NW.

7-24-23, 7:20 AM, 69ºF – Although this was going to be another travel day, as promised, Lupe got to start the morning with a jaunt up USFS Roads No. 838 & No. 6388 to visit the Showdown ski facilities and fire lookout tower on Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

At the base of the **Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower**. Photo looks E.

The **survey benchmark** that was in front of Lupe in the previous photo.

Heading over to the Showdown ski lifts. Photo looks ESE.

**Fire lookout tower** (L), **Showdown ski facility** (R). Photo looks NW.

The most impressive views were of Big Baldy Mountain, which Lupe had once been to, and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.).

**Big Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Yogo Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

We ought to visit Yogo Peak, too, SPHP!

Maybe someday, Looper, but not today. Canada and Alaska, remember? This is it for your morning constitutional. C’mon, we need to get back to the RAV4 and make some tracks.

Using one of the ski runs as a bit of a shortcut, Lupe headed down to the roads leading back to Kings Hill Pass.

Leaving **Porphyry Peak**. **Big Baldy Mountain** (R of Center), **Yogo Peak** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

The shortcut back to the USFS roads. Photo looks NW.

Driving out of the Little Belt Mountains, SPHP stopped briefly at the Al Buck Memorial Park so Lupe could get a drink from the spring gushing out of a hillside. Other than a couple of quick stops for food and fuel, that was it before crossing into Canada at the N end of I-15 at 12:57 PM.

Enjoying a drink from the spring at the **Al Buck Memorial Park** along Hwy 89.

At midday, even the Canadian border was a scorching 99ºF! Despite the heat, Lupe left the cool comfort of the RAV4’s AC long enough to pose by the Alberta welcome sign.

The **Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood** returns to **Canada**!

Another long drive with only occasional brief stops ensued. By early evening, the Carolina Dog was back in the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

7-24-23, 6:30 PM, 85ºF, Banff – As usual, beautiful Banff was jam-packed with tourists, and justifiably so. A couple of changes were evident since Lupe had been here last year. It was no longer possible to drive along Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown, which was now reserved solely for pawdestrians, and the fancy new upstream pawbridge over the Bow River that had been under construction in 2022 was now complete and open to the public.

Lupe’s evening in Banff began with a stroll along the turquoise blue Bow River. Famous Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) was in sight as she crossed the new upstream pawbridge, while the downstream bridge offered a great view of the N end of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.).

**Cascade Mountain** (Center) beyond the new upstream pawbridge. Photo looks N.

**Mount Rundle** (Center) from the downstream bridge. Photo looks SE.

Continuing downstream, Lupe visited Bow Falls, which was more like a steep rapids than a vertical waterfall, but awesome nevertheless. From there, a trail led up to the historic Banff Springs Hotel.

Along the **Bow River** below the falls. Photo looks E.

The historic **Banff Springs Hotel**. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with a long-standing Banff tradition – Lupe’s Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown.

Lupe’s one-Dingo **Pretty Puppy Parade** in the center of **Banff**.

7-25-23, 6:37 AM, 66ºF – Early sunshine was peeping through the clouds on this breezy, unsettled morning, and Banff was still quiet as Lupe left town. At least, it was quiet until the Carolina Dog spotted several giant deers. Nearly tame, they seemed more perplexed than alarmed as they were subjected to ferocious barking emitting from the RAV4.

Guess you told them, didn’t you, Loopster? A bit rudely, though.

Giant deers are incredibly exciting, SPHP! Right on the edge of town, too! A great start to a great day. Now that we’ve made it to the Canadian Rockies, what’s on the agenda?

Been ages since we’ve seen the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass. Thinking we might do that, Looper. We can stop at a few favorite spots along the way, too, if you like.

Sounds terrific, SPHP!

It was a fine plan. However, driving W on Hwy 1, the sky soon became very dark. The mountains turned gray, then vanished amid heavy rain.

Shucks, Loop! Looks we’re going to miss out on the Canadian Rockies, and get stuck with a rainy day drive. Sorry! Nothing I can do about it, though.

Most disappointing! However, current conditions were deceptive. By the time the RAV4 reached Lake Louise, the rain was over and blue sky was ahead.

7-25-23, 7:49 AM, 42ºF, Bow Lake picnic area along Icefields Parkway No. 93 – So much for the baking heat of the plains! SPHP dug a couple more layers of clothing out of the duffle bags, put them on, then accompanied the Carolina Dog down to the lakeshore. Beyond the rippled surface, a red roof stood out way over along opposite N shore.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (R of Center) beyond **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls and Mount Jimmy Simpson starts over there, remember, SPHP? That’s the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge!

Of, course! Awesome times, sweet puppy! However, they’ve now changed the name from Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, to just the Lodge at Bow Lake. Easier to remember, I suppose.

7-25-23, 8:57 AM, – Lupe’s next stop was only a few km farther N. The L turn off Icefields Parkway No. 93 for the Peyto Lake overlook came at the top of Bow Pass. Surprisingly, the 0.6 km paved trail to the overlook had been rerouted since the last time the American Dingo was here. The view deck was new, too, and much larger than it used to be.

Across the deep valley the lake was nestled in, Cauldron Peak (9,580 ft.) towered over the far shore, with Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) standing like a sentinel along the edge of the Mistaya River valley, where a long line of magnificent mountains stretched off to the N horizon.

At the fancy new **Peyto Lake view deck**. **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** from the end of the deck. **Mount Patterson** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** with **Cauldron Mountain** (L), **Mount Patterson** (Center), **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Love how Peyto Lake has such an amazing, milky, turquoise blue color! Don’t you, SPHP?

Oh, of course! That’s because it’s a glacier-fed lake, Loopster. Remember your Search for the Peyto Glacier? We took a primitive trail down to Peyto Creek from here, and wandered up the valley.

We never did find the Peyto Glacier, SPHP.

Beyond our abilities, Loopster, but we had a great time. If you look SW up the valley, you can actually see Peyto Peak (9,711 ft.) and part of the Peyto Glacier from right here on the view deck.

**Peyto Glacier** (Center), **Peyto Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Peyto Glacier** (L), **Peyto Peak** (R), **Peyto Creek** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Once upon a time, the American Dingo had also taken a shorter trail from here to Bow Summit, a high spot with a gorgeous view of Bow Lake back to the S, although admittedly not as grand as the one from Mount Jimmy Simpson.

However, with Wilcox Pass on the agenda, Lupe didn’t visit Bow Summit again today. A final quick stop at the Carson Creek picnic ground along the North Saskatchewan River, where SPHP got the pack ready, was it before the main event.

**North Saskatchewan River** from the Carson Creek picnic ground. Photo looks SE.

7-25-23, 11:04 AM, 48ºF – As Icefields Parkway No. 93 went up and over Sunwapta Pass, the Carolina Dog left Banff National Park behind, and entered Jasper National Park. Wilcox Creek campground was only 2.5 km farther on the R. For a change, the severely under-sized Wilcox Pass trailhead near the entrance to the campground wasn’t entirely overrun. SPHP was lucky enough to grab a vacant parking spot for the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way!

The incredibly popular Wilcox Pass trail began with a short climb into the forest along a broad, smooth path. Before long, the trail was even wider and covered with a multitude of roots. After a fairly flat section, the trail began climbing at a good clip, eventually flattening out shortly before leading to a boardwalk with a set of stairs.

Near the start of the **Wilcox Pass trail**.

Beyond the boardwalk, the trail climbed more steeply again. The first viewpoint came soon after going around a bend NW, but only hinted at the glories yet to come. An open slope a little farther on revealed much more. Although the Athabasca Glacier wasn’t in sight yet, Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) were.

**Snow Dome** (L), **Mount Kitchener** (R) from the first good viewpoint. Photo looks W.

The Wilcox Pass trail leveled out to some degree as it continued NW through another stretch of forest. When Lupe reached the next open slope, most of the Athabasca Glacier was in view.

Along the last stretch of dense forest. Photo looks NW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (Center), **Mount Kitchener** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Something new was ahead! Two red chairs faced the already grand view of the glacier flanked by Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda on the L, and Snow Dome and Mount Kitchener on the R. Lupe got up on a platform connecting the chairs, braving a brisk SW breeze.

Red chairs viewpoint. **Mount Kitchener** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center). Photo looks S.

What a great spot, Loopster! If one didn’t feel like going any farther, these chairs wouldn’t be a bad place to hang out. Both Hilda Peak (9,974 ft.) and the top of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) are in sight, in addition to all the big peaks over by the Athabasca Glacier.

Don’t get any ideas, SPHP. We’re going all the way to Wilcox Pass!

The red chairs were near treeline. Only scattered stands of increasingly stunted forest and bushes were ahead, as tundra-covered slopes began to dominate. A relatively flat section of the trail continued a bit farther NW toward a big gully below the Wilcox Pass region, which was now starting to come into view.

Near the gully, the trail veered N, climbing steeply for 200 feet before once again angling NW. The slope steadily diminished as Lupe entered a rumpled region of low bushes, tundra, and small rock formations.

The flat stretch of trail beyond the red chairs. **Mount Wilcox** (far L). **Wilcox Pass region** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Above the steepest stretch. **Big gully** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

In the **rumpled region**. Photo looks NW.

The Wilcox Pass trail kept flattening, literally becoming a stroll in the park – Jasper National Park! By the time Lupe reached the shallow stream that flowed into the gully, most of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in view, and Wilcox Pass wasn’t much farther.

From a rock outcropping capping a small rise near the stream, a huge ridge was in sight beyond Mount Wilcox.

Recognize that ridge, Loop? You were there since the last time we visited Wilcox Pass.

Hmm. Not sure, SPHP. Give me a hint!

Well, it’s possible to continue over Wilcox Pass along this trail and wind up over there, but that’s not how we did it. Instead we started down by Tangle Falls where the NW end of the Wilcox Pass trail reaches Icefields Parkway No. 93 again.

Tangle Falls! That’s a great hint, SPHP. That must be Tangle Ridge! Oh, that was another great day in the Canadian Rockies!

Indeed it was, Loopster! Fun to see Tangle Ridge again from here.

Closing in on **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Wilcox** (L of Center), **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

About to cross the **shallow stream**. Photo looks NW.

**Tangle Ridge** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 12:35 PM, 41ºF – Wilcox Pass was so cold and windy when Lupe arrived, that SPHP dumped the pack then layered up – stocking cap, coat, gloves, the whole bit. Although the Carolina Dog had seen surprisingly few people thus far, plenty were up here, all dressed like winter was coming while exploring the vast Wilcox Pass region.

**Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Hilda Peak** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (R) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks S.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

A sign said it was 1.4 km to Wilcox Ridge. As awesome as all the wide open spaces were at Wilcox Pass, the pass was never the Carolina Dog’s ultimate destination. Wilcox Ridge was where the stupendous view of the Athabasca Glacier was. Lupe always went there! Despite the cold wind, coming all the way to Wilcox Pass and not going to Wilcox Ridge would be simply ridiculous.

**Wilcox Ridge** from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks W.

The spur trail heading W up into the Wilcox Ridge region used to fade away, simply becoming more of a choose-your-own-path route once it turned SW. However, the trail was now very distinct. If there was any question at all about it, new cairns held together by wire cages, each bearing a yellow diamond, marked the way.

More than halfway to the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint, Lupe came to a long rock wall serving as a windbreak. That was new, too. The Carolina Dog was glad one thing hadn’t changed. Bighorn mountain sheep still grazed these windswept slopes.

Signage at the Wilcox Pass trail junction.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) from one of the yellow diamond cairns. Photo looks S.

At the rock wall windbreak. Photo looks SW.

The Wilcox Ridge Trail went over a series of minor ridges and ravines on the way to what appeared to be a more formal viewpoint than Lupe had ever seen here before. Quite a few people were already present as the American Dingo arrived. Preferring more solitude, SPHP decided to take a side route farther W, closer to the SE end of the narrow ridge leading up Mount Wilcox before selecting another spot along the SW edge where Lupe could relax on a patch of tundra.

Approaching the **Wilcox Ridge Athabasca Glacier viewpoint**. Photo looks SW.

Heading a little farther W before taking a break. **Mount Wilcox** (R). Photo looks W.

7-25-23, 1:36 PM, 43ºF – The 30 mph gale sweeping in from the SW felt really cold at the viewpoint SPHP had chosen. Fortunately, conditions weren’t nearly as bad while relaxing just a few feet back from the edge. Facing SW directly into the breeze, Lupe once again enjoyed one of the most magnificent easily accessible views in the Canadian Rockies.

Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) on the L, and Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) on the R, with the Athabasca Glacier between them, flowing down from the almost entirely hidden Columbia Icefield.

Looking S. **Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (R).

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (R), **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SW.

Still a truly incredible scene, SPHP, but there isn’t as much snow and ice as I remember.

Yup. The Athabasca Glacier is steadily retreating, Loopster. One day in the not too distant future, it will be but a memory.

That’s a terribly sad thought, SPHP! This has to be one of my favorite places in the Canadian Rockies, although seeing the Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge, Berg Lake at the base of Mount Robson , Moraine Lake, and Lake Louise all rank way up there, too.

All fabulous choices, Looper. However, if we were limited to being able to come back to only one spot in the Canadian Rockies ever again, I might well choose Wilcox Pass and this view. Most spectacular scenic reward for a half day hike there is!

Peering over the edge, Sunwapta Lake, the meltwater pond that used to be at the toe of the glacier once upon a time, and the Icefields Centre, where it’s possible to get tickets to actually ride in a snowcoach up onto the Athabasca Glacier, were in sight 1,400 feet below. Looking back to the ESE, Sunwapta Pass and Nigel Peak were in view.

**Icefields Centre** (Center) down by **Icefields Parkway No. 93**. **Sunwapta Lake** (R) below the toe of the **Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks ESE.

**Nigel Peak** (L) and **Sunwapta Pass** (R). Photo looks ESE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this marvelous scene for the first time in nearly 7 years, then shared a chocolate coconut bar with her.

For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP hung out together in the cold breeze, admiring the glory in all directions, chief of which was the splendid panorama of the Athabasca glacier and surrounding mighty peaks.

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), part of **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Happy Lupe with **Mount Athabasca** (L) and the **Athabasca Glacier** (R) beyond her. Photo looks S.

Oh, we’ll never get tired of Wilcox Pass and these views of the Athabasca Glacier, will we, SPHP?

Not even if we live to be 100, Loopster!

7-25-23, 2:38 PM – Absent-mindedly, SPHP shook the box, then looking down realized it was empty.

Holy moly, Loop! I’ve eaten an entire box of Dots sitting here. Guess I’ll be on a sugar high now! Sadly, our hour at this splendid perch has flown. Ready to move on?

Hate to leave, SPHP, but more adventures lie ahead, don’t they?

Gobs of ’em, Looper, a whole Dingo Vacation chock full of them!

A final appreciative look, and Lupe was on her way.

**Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (far R).

After leaving her fabulous viewpoint, Lupe explored the region closer to the SE end of Mount Wilcox. Great fun, but all too quickly, she arrived back at Wilcox Pass. Still awesome views all around, but just a matter of following the trail back now.

Leaving the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint. **Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Back at **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L edge), **Tangle Ridge** (Center). Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 4:06 PM, 52ºF – Warmer, actually quite pleasant, with scarcely even a breeze, when Lupe leapt back onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 at the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Wilcox Pass, and lots of beautiful places on the way to it! My 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska is off to a terrific start, SPHP!

And still time enough for more sight-seeing yet today, Loop. Hope you’re in the mood for some awesome Canadian Rockies waterfalls, sweet puppy!

I am! Turn the key, and let’s hit the road N. Onward! SPHP, ho!

The **Athabasca Glacier**, **Snow Dome** & **Mount Kitchener** from **Wilcox Ridge**, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Peyto Lake & Lupe’s Search for the Peyto Glacier, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-26-13)

Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Wheeler Peak, Sangre de Cristo Range, the New Mexico State High Point (6-27-23)

Days 20 – 22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-26-23, 12:43 PM, Taos Ski Village – On the deck overlooking a rushing stream, SPHP sipped on a cherry sour.

Mushroom Swiss burger, Loop! Sure you don’t want a bite? Very tasty!

Lupe sat in the shade, content to merely watch SPHP eat while enjoying the sound of the water. The Carolina Dog could have gone into Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House; it was a dog friendly establishment, but SPHP was so filthy that avoiding the rest of the clientele as much as possible seemed prudent.

Out on the **Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House deck**.

Not interested, aye? Your loss, Loopster! Guess I’ll polish off the whole burger then.

After a steep, dusty drive up a wide gravel road, Lupe spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the Williams Lake trailhead. 40+ vehicles were there when SPHP pulled the RAV4 into the last available parking spot, but the popular trailhead began emptying out as the day wore on.

**Rich Peak (12,535 ft.)** (L of Center) from the **Williams Lake trailhead**. Photo looks S.

By evening, the American Dingo had a change of heart. Back at Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House again, this time when SPHP ordered a second Swiss Mushroom burger plus french fries, Lupe was not only a willing participant, but eager to make up for her earlier abstinence.

6-27-23, 7:27 AM – The big paved parking lot at the entrance to the Taos Ski Village that had been jam packed yesterday was practically empty when Lupe leapt out of the RAV4.

We’re leaving from here, SPHP? What happened to the Williams Lake trailhead?

A nice guy named John at the little barn-like visitor center gave me a nifty trail system map yesterday, Loop. We can start from here, and make a huge loop coming back down that way. Longer and more elevation gain the way we’re going, but you can tag a few more peaks along the way, too.

As long as we still make it to Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.), that’s fine, SPHP. Loops are awesome; I’m practically named after them! Don’t want to miss out on only my 6th state high point ever, though.

Eh, never any guarantees in the mountains, Loopster. You know that. The forecast is kind of iffy no matter which way we go. If the weather holds up, we’ll make it. Trail all the way!

So where do we go, SPHP?

The Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead is right here, Looper, a couple hundred feet from the visitor center. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Bound for the top of New Mexico, the Carolina Dog set out on Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The paved parking lot at the **entrance to the Taos Ski Village**. The **barn-shaped shed** on the L is the **visitor information center**. Photo looks SE.

**Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead**. The gravel road on the R goes to the Williams Lake trailhead.

**Free trail system map** available at the visitor center.

Entering the forest, the single track trail became broad and rather rocky. Climbing NE at a good clip, it paralleled an unseen stream hidden among the trees off to the R. After a 15 minute trek, Lupe came to a spot with a view of the stream, which was now quite close to the trail.

Pressing on, Trail No. 90 became less rocky, and sometimes leveled out. Another 20 minutes, during which glimpses of the stream continued to appear, got the American Dingo to a tributary coming down from Long Canyon. SPHP was happy to see a makeshift bridge of branches.

**Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. More roots and fewer rocks now. Photo looks NE.

Hah! Don’t even have to get our paws wet, Looper!

It’s summer! Nothing wrong with cooling your paws off, SPHP.

Beyond the ford, Lupe reached a junction with Long Canyon Trail No. 63.

At the **junction of Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90** and **Long Canyon Trail No. 63**.

Junction signage. **Long Canyon Trail No. 63** (L).

Sticking with Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90, the broad single track trail soon merged with an old roadbed. Despite the absence of any other obstacles, due to the steepness of the incline, SPHP had to keep pausing to gasp for air. With no views other than the forest, the road trek quickly became monotonous.

The rate of climb finally diminished as Lupe approached Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture.

Arriving at **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks NNE.

Located in the saddle region between Gold Hill (12,711 ft.) 2.5 miles NW, and Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) less than 0.75 mile S, Bull-of-the Woods Pasture was not at all what SPHP expected.

You thought there would be more grass, SPHP?

Yeah, guess it was the word “pasture” that threw me, Loop. Kind of thought we might be able to see something from up here, too.

Well, it does have the “woods” part down, SPHP.

I’ll grant you that, Looper.

Actually there was a clearing at Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture, it just wasn’t as extensive as SPHP had envisioned. Furthermore, although Gold Hill wasn’t in sight, the forested N side of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain was.

**Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks SSE.

Gold Hill Trail No. 64 branched off to the L here. Taking Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 instead, it immediately curled SE, crossing a creek issuing from a small pond. The dirt road ahead looked new, and the sound of machinery came from this direction. Following this road, a single track trail soon branched off to the R as a light rain began to fall.

A sign said “Redi’s Run”.

At the **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture pond and stream.** Photo looks NE.

On the new, or at least recently graded, dirt road. **Redi’s Run trail** (R).

Redi’s Run? Hang on, Loop, let’s get off the road. Not sure which way we need to go here.

Putting on the red rain jacket as it began raining harder, SPHP then checked the maps.

Hmm. No Redi’s Run mentioned on any of these maps, not even the one from the visitor center.

Maybe Redi is the name of the Bull-of-the-Woods, SPHP? He might come running through here at any moment!

Hope not. Didn’t bring any red capes to dodge him with.

Use your rain jacket, SPHP. It’s red!

Wasn’t necessary. An approaching roar proved to be a loaded logging truck coming down the road. A few minutes later, an empty truck backed up it.

Since Redi’s Run seemed destined to go downhill rather than up, once the empty logging truck disappeared from sight, Lupe followed it. She soon came to the place where it was being loaded.

Approaching the logging operation. Photo looks SE.

Rather than charge through all the activity, SPHP encouraged Lupe to go around it. Upon regaining the road on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain’s N ridge, the Carolina Dog enjoyed her first distant view of the day, a look at Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) beyond the Red River valley.

**Red River valley** (Center), **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

Despite cloudy skies, the sun reappeared. However, as Lupe continued along the freshly graded logging road around the upper W slopes of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain, the sky darkened again.

Circling around **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

Reaching the N end of Pass 11514, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 turned S as a single track, parting from the road, which veered N. Lupe took shelter beneath a spruce tree as it began to rain again.

Nothing too serious yet, but this might not be our day, Looper.

Don’t give up so easily, SPHP.

Oh, I’m not, Loopster! The top of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain is real close, though, only 100 feet higher up the road. Won’t take us long. Want to tag the summit so you can claim at least one peakbagging success today no matter what else happens?

I’m all in, SPHP!

As soon as the rain abated, the American Dingo followed the road N.

Approaching the **Bull-of-the-Woods summit region**. Photo looks N.

The free trail system map from the visitor center didn’t mention it, but the topo maps showed mines on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain. As Lupe approached the summit region, forest gave way to a ridge of loose rock that had clearly been disturbed. Going around the W end of this ridge, the Carolina Dog found a wide, almost level gash that had been carved across the mountain. Beyond the gap, a higher ridge looked natural.

6-27-23, 10:15 AM, 50ºF, Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) – A short scramble to the top of this second ridge, and Lupe reached a pile of rocks evidently serving as a loosely assembled cairn. The Carolina Dog might have enjoyed the excellent view of Fraser Mountain (12,163 ft.), her next objective due S, but conditions were none too pleasant.

A 20-25 mph W wind swept over the barren, exposed summit driving a cold light rain.

**Fraser Mountain** (Center) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. **Peak 13054** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain offered other views, too, notably Gold Hill (12,716 ft.) off to the NNW. However, a few minutes atop the wet, windy summit was enough. Lupe returned to the road and protection of the forest. By the time the American Dingo got back to where Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 left the road near Pass 11514, the rain had ended.

Back at **Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. **Pass 11514** (Center) ahead. Photo looks S.

Well, phooey! Sorry about that, Loop. Seems we tagged Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain at the worst possible moment.

Still counts as a peakbagging success, SPHP. Maybe we’ll be luckier at Fraser Mountain?

Continuing down to the saddle at Pass 11514, Lupe crossed it. Trail No. 90 switchbacked SW, then SE, climbing through thick forest. Reaching a clearing where the trail turned SW again, it provided a terrific view of Gold Hill and mining-scarred Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain back to the N.

**Gold Hill** (L) and **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

From this viewpoint, Trail No. 90 headed straight for the closest of a long line of snowbanks on the E side of the enormous ridge leading to Frazer Mountain, promptly vanishing beneath the snow. Climbing up and over the first snowbank, Lupe found no sign of the trail beyond it. However, the general direction she needed to go was clear. Heading S across flat, open ground, the Carolina Dog made rapid progress.

Heading for the big snowbanks on the E side of the ridge leading to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSW.

Searching for Trail No. 90 again on the way to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the flat part of the gently rounded ridge, Lupe picked up Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again, which gradually climbed S along the windy W side of the ridge. At treeline now, the views were awesome! Kachina Peak (12,481 ft.) and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) were both in sight on the opposite side of the Taos Ski Valley, still sporting some snow.

**Lake Fork Peak** (Center), **Kachina Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

The trail went by the upper end of a forested section, then remained out on open ground as it went clear to the top of Frazer Mountain’s N ridge. In addition to seeing all the gorgeous peaks towering over the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley, Lupe got to sniff some stunning wildflowers along the way.

Heading for the top of the ridge after passing the forested section. **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 reached the top of the ridge only 0.1 mile N of Frazer Mountain, but did not go up to the summit, instead swinging over to the E side of the ridge. The W wind was especially powerful on top of the ridge, but Lupe enjoyed a bit of relief over on the protected E side.

However, the American Dingo wasn’t about to skip Frazer Mountain! After a brief respite from the wind, she left the trail, heading up the E slope in search of the true summit.

6-27-23, 11:50 AM, 52ºF, Frazer Mountain (12,163 ft.) – A 70 foot climb got Lupe to the top of a broad, flat summit region sprinkled with rocks amid tundra and wildflowers. Four mountain sheep who didn’t care to make the acquaintance of a Carolina Dog added excitement, racing away to the S as they abandoned these heights where the wind was 30 mph out of the WNW.

One of four Fraser Mountain mountain sheep.

From a cairn near the S end, Lupe had a terrific view of the territory ahead. Two big humps were now visible along the ridge leading S to Peak 13045. For the first time, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) was also in sight.

**Peak 13045** (L), **Wheeler Peak** (L of Center), **Peak 12819** (R), and **Lake Fork Peak** (far R) from **Fraser Mountain**. Photo looks S.

The highest ground on Fraser Mountain was a bit back to the N, so Lupe headed over there to tag what appeared to be the true summit, an area scarcely any higher than the rest of the summit plateau. Upon getting there, SPHP made a discovery.

Well, shucks, Loop. Our GPS track messed up and quit recording before we even got to Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain.

Good spot to start a new one, SPHP. Then let’s get down out of this wind!

Heading back to the S end of Fraser Mountain’s summit plateau, Lupe began a rather steep descent on the open slope leading back down to Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The region E of the next big hump to the S looked like the easiest route to Peak 13045 and ultimately Wheeler Peak, but shortly after reaching Trail No. 90 again, it turned E, continuing to lose elevation. Naturally, the trail ought to have worked, too, but upon reaching a forest, it immediately vanished beneath mounds of snow.

At the **S end of Fraser Mountain** about to head down to the L to pick up Trail No. 90 again. **Peak 13045** (far L), **Wheeler Peak** (L), **Lake Fork Peak** (far R). Photo looks S.

Entering the forest as Trail No. 90 vanishes beneath the snow. Photo looks SSE.

While Lupe had no problem with it, SPHP soon found post-holing in deep snow amid dense forest without a clue where the trail had gone rather discouraging.

Ugh! We should have just stayed up on the easy terrain E of that next hill, Loop. This is ridiculous!

Want to go back, SPHP? We can.

Yeah, but instead of going back along the trail, Loopster, let’s just angle SW until we get above all these trees and snow.

Snow extended all the way up to where the trees were mere stunted miniatures of the ones down in the main forest. Traversing this steep, rocky, upper slope was slow going. However, once far enough S, open terrain on the opposite E side of a shallow valley looked much better.

About to cross the shallow valley ahead. **Peak 13045** (L). Photo looks S.

After crossing the valley, Lupe’s off-trail exploration got substantially easier. She’d made it to the La Cal Basin, a flat, obstacle-free region.

Progress was excellent until the American Dingo turned E, starting a steep climb straight up the W side of Peak 13045’s massive NNE ridge. SPHP frequently paused to gasp for air. Fortunately, less than halfway up, Lupe came across Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again.

Exposed once more to the powerful W wind, switchbacking gradually higher, the trail made getting to the ridgeline easier. Reaching the crest, Peak 13045 was directly ahead, with Mount Walter (13,133 ft.) in view less than 0.25 mile beyond it. Looking ESE, Horseshoe Lake was in sight nearly 1,000 feet below.

**La Cal Basin** (L), **Frazer Mountain** (R foreground), and **Gold Hill** (far R) from partway up **Peak 13045‘s NNE ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Approaching **Peak 13045** (R). **Mount Walter** (L). Photo looks S.

**Horseshoe Lake** (Center) from Peak 13045’s NNE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Continuing up Peak 13045’s NE slope, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 made a few short switchbacks, but did not go all the way to the top. Instead, the trail began traversing the upper E slope. However, Lupe soon came to a snowbank where the trail vanished.

On **Peak 13045‘s upper E slope**. **Mount Walter summit** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

The snow’s too steep, Loopster! Don’t chance it.

Backtracking a bit to snow-free ground, Lupe abandoned the trail again and started climbing.

6-27-23, 2:46 PM – 60 feet was enough to get the Carolina Dog to the top of the small, flat, rocky plain that was the summit of Peak 13045. Only the W half of this plain was snow-free, but that was sufficient. Mount Walter was now directly ahead beyond a small saddle, and Wheeler Peak was less than half a mile farther.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Wheeler Peak** (R) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks S.

The route was open, the top of New Mexico within reach, but was Lupe too late? The W wind was stronger than ever up here, and although blue sky still dominated S and SE, at all points W, dark clouds and a long, gray line of rain showers were being driven this way.

**Peak 12819** (L) **Williams Lake** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R of Center) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks SW.

Our timing is looking worse than ever, SPHP.

I know it. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Setting off at speed, Lupe had barely crossed the saddle leading to Mount Walter and started up its N ridge when a few raindrops fell, stinging due to the force of the steadily increasing gale. Thunder rumbled. W of the trail, a grassy slope was below a big snowbank.

Go down there, Looper! No sense in being complete idiots, and getting ourselves fried right on the crest of the ridge!

Running NW down the slope a little way, SPHP dumped the pack, layered up as much as possible with the red rain jacket over all, then sat down.

On my lap, Loop! I’ve got another coat I can put over you.

Leaving **Peak 13045** for **Mount Walter** (R). **Red Dome** (L). Photo looks SE.

This open slope a few 10’s of feet below the ridgeline was it for shelter. Gonna to have to face whatever the storm dished out.

The wind came in swirling in from various directions, but mostly from straight out of the NW, perhaps due to the configuration of the terrain. Prolonged 50 mph gusts were occasionally separated by brief moments of relative calm. As line after line of showers swept over Mount Walter, rain, snow pellets, and tiny hail pelted Lupe. SPHP’s hands started to freeze, forcing a search of the pack for gloves.

Several cloud to ground lightning strikes crackled only a few miles N. No view of what was happening to the S, but thunder boomed from that direction, as well. Despite the fierce wind, the showers seemed to move slowly. At last, a patch of blue sky appeared far to the W.

Waiting the storm out. **Peak 12012** (L), **Peak 13045** (R). Photo looks NW.

The patch of blue sky grew slowly, at first spreading only toward the N. However, the rain abated and the wind even began to taper off slightly. Lupe waited until the last of the thunder was well to the E.

OK, Loop. You’re cutting off my circulation – my leg’s going numb. We’ve been here a whole hour. Time to get moving again!

6-27-23, 4:19 PM, 40ºF – The next bump along the ridgeline wasn’t the true summit of Mount Walter (13,133 ft.), but it wasn’t much farther. Arriving in a 40 mph gale, Lupe found a metal plaque commemorating H. D. Walter atop a pole sticking out of a pile of rocks.

**Mount Walter summit**. **Wheeler Peak** (L). Photo looks SW.

With the wind as annoying as it was, Lupe lingered on Mount Walter only 5 or 10 minutes before pressing on to her final objective.

Closing in on **Wheeler Peak** (Center), the **New Mexico state high point**! Photo looks SSW.

6-27-23, 4:38 PM, 45ºF, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) – Unfortunately, the wild W wind wasn’t about to cut Lupe any slack just because she’d made it to the top of New Mexico. Even so, the relentless 40 – 50+ mph breeze did reward her with what may have been a rare moment of privacy here on a late June afternoon. Not a soul was around.

The summit featured a rock wall serving as a completely inadequate windbreak astride the natural high point. A battered directional survey marker was attached to one of the highest rocks comprising the wall.

Wheeler Peak also possessed a much more unusual landmark in the form of a capped, heavy metal horizontal pipe jutting out of a pyramid of rocks cemented together. This pyramid bore a metal plaque in honor of Major George Montague Wheeler, and sat on a tilting concrete base.

On **Wheeler Peak**, **New Mexico’s highest mountain**! Photo looks SW.

**Major George Montague Wheeler commemorative plaque**.

Next to the **directional survey marker** (R). **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Wheeler Peak directional survey marker**.

Attempting to turn the cap fastened by a chain to the heavy metal pipe protruding from the pyramid, SPHP was surprised at how easily it came off. Signing Lupe’s name in the registry notebook hidden within was a challenge in the wind, but SPHP made sure her ascent was noted.

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve officially made it to Wheeler Peak, the New Mexico state high point.

Thank you, SPHP! Wish my 6th state high point wasn’t so windy, though.

You and me both, Looper. Under the circumstances, we aren’t going to hang around up here for a whole hour. Let’s get some photos.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then the photo session began.

Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) and Touch-Me-Not Mountain (12,044 ft.) beyond a broad valley were the big highlights miles to the NE.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Touch-Me-Not Mountain** (R). Photo looks ENE.

On a better day, Simpson Peak (12,976 ft.) looked easily attainable only 0.5 mile S. Continuing SE to Old Mike Peak (13,113 ft.) from Simpson appeared to be just a romp. Red Dome (12,681 ft.) would have added another mile farther E.

**Red Dome** (L edge), **Old Mike Peak** (Center), **Simpson Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

Gazing NNW down the Taos Ski Valley, the Williams Lake trailhead was in sight below the ski runs coming down off Peak 12012. Farther down the valley, part of the Taos Ski Village close to where Lupe had set out from was visible. However, the wind was so ferocious along the W edge that SPHP didn’t even try to get a glimpse of whether or not Williams Lake could be seen from Wheeler Peak.

**Peak 12012** (L), **Williams Lake trailhead** (Center), **Taos Ski Village** below it, **Gold Hill** (R), **Frazer Mountain** (far R) at the lower end of the ridge. Photo looks NNW.

The most magnificent views of all, though, were toward the SW where Pueblo Peak (12,305 ft.) and the top of Vallecito Mountain (12,643 ft.) jutted up beyond the ridge between Peak 12819 and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) beneath a stormy sky.

**Peak 12819** (far L), **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the relentless gale out of the W and still questionable outlook, 15 minutes into Lupe’s stay she spotted someone rapidly approaching from Mount Walter. She soon met Casey, only the 3rd person she’d seen all day. Casey was friendly, but hung around 10 minutes tops, declining to even sign the registry before heading back N.

6-27-23, 5:10 PM – Casey was gone. Once again, Lupe had Wheeler Peak to just herself, SPHP, and the wild W wind, which hadn’t shown the least sign of letting up.

Been here half an hour, Loopster. Maybe Casey’s right? Ready to head down and get out of this gale?

Hate to leave before my traditional summit hour is over, SPHP. Especially on only my 6th state high point!

Feel the same way, Looper, but its kind of hard to enjoy it. Won’t the next half hour just be an ordeal to endure for no real reason, if we stay? We’re lucky to have made it here at all. If the storm had lasted longer, or been more severe, we would never have made it.

I suppose that makes sense, SPHP. Count our blessings, and go! Certainly had a memorable experience, and after all, Wheeler Peak’s been a success!

Precisely, sweet puppy!

The sky was a little brighter, the W wind as rambunctious as ever, as the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the rock wall built over the natural true summit.

Final moments atop **Wheeler Peak**. Photo looks SW.

Between Mount Walter and Wheeler Peak, Lupe had passed a junction with Williams Lake Trail No. 62, the shortest route back, and clearly now by far the quickest way down out of the wind. Eager to complete the big loop proposed earlier in the day, the American Dingo left Wheeler Peak ready to explore this most popular route.

Heading for **Williams Lake Trail No. 62** seen below **Peak 13045** (L of Center) and **Mount Walter** (R). Photo looks N.

Switchbacks made the descent of the steep open slope a snap. For a long way, part of Williams Lake was in view, nestled down in the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley surrounded by the glories of many of New Mexico’s highest peaks. Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation before the W wind diminished. By the time she reached the forest, not a breeze remained.

Switchbacking down **Wheeler Peak’s W slope**. **Pueblo Peak** (far L), **Lake Fork Peak** (Center) with a fragment of **Williams Lake** visible below it. Photo looks WSW.

Unidentified **unusual plant** along Williams Lake Trail No. 62. Anyone know what it is?

6-27-23, 8:29 PM, 55ºF, Taos Ski Village – Lupe hopped into the RAV4, glad to return to the comfort of her pink blanket after a long day.

I’m thinking Swiss mushroom burger! Sure you don’t want to come down to Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House with me, Loopster?

Perfectly content, and perhaps prescient, the American Dingo declined. SPHP was back soon enough.

Closed, weren’t they, SPHP?

Yup! 7:00 PM, and they roll up the sidewalk. I was a couple of hours late.

6-28-23, 2:30 AM, Taos Ski Village – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

What’s going on, SPHP? It’s the middle of the night!

Can’t sleep! Woke up feeling good and alert, so we’re heading out, Loop.

Heading out for where?

Home, sweet puppy! Wheeler Peak was the exciting conclusion for this Dingo Vacation. Must be 700 miles, or thereabouts, back to the Black Hills. May as well get an early start.

6-28-23, 3:39 PM, 63ºF – For 100 miles, an enormous thunderhead had been visible hanging over the Black Hills. Braving a cloudburst, Lupe sprang out of the RAV4 to dash into the house. Her 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico had been a blast! All over and done with now, but the Carolina Dog’s Summer of 2023 adventures were far from over.

Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea were due tomorrow afternoon, bringing new Cousin Dixie with them! And, of course, preparations would soon begin for Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

On **Wheeler Peak**, Sangre de Cristo Range, the **New Mexico state high point** (6-27-23)

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track (Partial)

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 324 – Line Camp Peak & Horse Trap Mountain (1-31-24)

7:59 AM, 28ºF, Cascade Falls, S of Hot Springs – Shadows were long, but the day already bright as the sun came peeping over the mountains. The steps leading down to Cascade Creek from the picnic ground were icy, forcing SPHP to use the railing for support. Reaching Cascade Falls, mist was rising into the chilly morning air from both the swimming hole, and the lukewarm stream tumbling into it.

Arriving early at **Cascade Falls**. Photo looks SW.

Beautiful! Love Cascade Falls, SPHP, but it’s still January! Kind of early in the season to go swimming, isn’t it?

Ha! No doubt, Loopster! Not too early to do a little wading, though.

As SPHP sat down and began removing boots and socks, the Carolina Dog appeared more concerned than convinced.

**Cascade Creek** immediately above the falls. Photo looks NNW.

Even though the water wasn’t all that cold or deep, Lupe was reluctant to follow SPHP into the stream. The creek bottom was smooth and firm, but uneven with sudden drops of a foot or more, enough to freak the American Dingo out a bit, causing her to freeze up midstream.

Just follow me, Loop. It’s not deep at all, if you take the exact same route.

After fording Cascade Creek, SPHP sat down and began putting socks and boots back on again.

Aren’t we staying here at the creek like we’ve always done before, SPHP?

Nope. Cascade Falls may be a great place to hang out during the summer, Looper, but we’re actually here to visit Line Camp Peak (4,530 ft.) today.

Line Camp Peak? Never heard of it, SPHP.

That’s the name I just gave it, Loop, because the topo map shows a Line Camp 0.33 mile SW of the summit. On Lists of John, it’s merely Peak 4535.

Oh, I get it! We’re back to tagging Lists of John peaks with a minimum of 300 feet of prominence. What is a line camp, anyway, SPHP?

Really don’t know, Loopster. If I had to guess, I’d think a temporary work camp near the construction of some sort of road or utility. Way out here, maybe a pipeline or powerline. With any luck, maybe we’ll find out today.

Scrambling up the steep, heavily forested bank on the W side of Cascade Creek through pines, junipers, and bushes, the terrain leveled out after a 40 foot climb. Another steep-sided ravine full of pines and junipers was now to the L with grasslands visible above both sides.

On the **NE side of Falls Canyon**. Photo looks NW.

This big ravine is Falls Canyon, Loop, but we’re on the wrong side. We’re going to have to find a place to get across.

Although Falls Canyon was only 40 feet deep, Lupe was above a cliff with standing water below it. Heading NW, there was already a nice view of Devils Slide Mountain (3,960 ft.) back to the NE.

Beginning the search for a way across **Falls Canyon**. Photo looks WNW.

**Devils Slide Mountain** (L). Photo looks NE.

After only 0.15 mile, the canyon divided. Falls Canyon turned N, while Mike Canyon continued NW. Lupe easily descended into Falls Canyon and climbed back out again here, but now had to cross Mike Canyon, as well. Another 0.1 mile NW got her to a good spot to enter Mike Canyon.

Exploring **Mike Canyon**. Photo looks E.

The terrain in the canyon was rolling and grassy, with a few inches of snow lingering along the more shaded SW side. Although the SW slope wasn’t a cliff, it was still mighty steep. Fortunately, Lupe didn’t have to sniff her way much farther up the canyon to find a spot where it was possible to scramble up and out, entering a region of typical western South Dakota prairie.

S of Mike Canyon now, the prairie rose in a long, gradual climb as Lupe headed W. Didn’t take her long to notice that grass wasn’t the only thing growing out here. The Carolina Dog’s nemesis was here, too.

Yeouch! SPHP, there’s cactus!

Lots of it, too. Progress slowed as Lupe insisted upon playing the cactus game. Remaining in one spot while SPHP scouted ahead, Lupe refused to budge until SPHP gave the signal that the route was cacti-free.

Playing the cactus game. **Devils Slide Mountain** (L). Photo looks E.

In some places, the cactus was so thick that carrying Lupe was the only way to keep going.

I sure hope it isn’t very far to Line Camp Peak, SPHP!

It’s a bit of a stroll, Loopster. Nearly 7 miles from Cascade Falls.

7 miles! We’ll never make it, SPHP! You can’t carry me that far, and I’m not walking barepaw through cactus infested fields for any 7 miles. You try it! It’s not fun.

Ahh, but there’s a road that goes nearly the entire way, Loop. We’ll soon come to it.

A road? Why didn’t you say so? That’s different, SPHP.

Continuing W, the terrain finally leveled out. From the top of a small rise, the Cheyenne River valley was now in sight off to the SW.

**Cheyenne River valley** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Alright! Almost there, Looper. USFS Road No. 647 should be just down this little slope about where the trees start. In fact, I think I see it.

Reaching the road put an end to the American Dingo’s cactus concerns. Turning NW again, her road hike commenced.

On **USFS Road No. 647**. Photo looks NW.

No. 647 was a scenic, easy march. Trending NW for miles through both prairie and open pine forests, the road steadily gained elevation. Soon Lupe was high enough to see Nebraska way off to the S.

Among the pines of the open forest. Photo looks NNE.

**Nebraska** on the distant horizon. Photo looks SSE.

The Black Hills had been very warm for January recently, and today was no exception. The morning was warming up fast as the sun climbed into the cloudless sky. Very little snow remained, but Lupe was happy to find enough melting in the shade here and there to eat for a bit of moisture whenever she got thirsty.

Nothing happened on this pleasant journey until, approaching HP4040 after 2 miles on No. 647, the American Dingo spotted movement ahead. A lone horse with a thick black mane was running around up here. The horse trotted through the fields for a few minutes before disappearing into the forest, evidently on its way to some unknown destination.

Approaching **HP4040** (R). Photo looks NW.

“**Black Mane**“, the handsome horse of **HP4040**.

The road didn’t go all the way to the top of HP4040, instead flattening out as it turned W for a short stretch before losing 50 feet of elevation winding NW down into the uppermost reaches of Cedar Canyon.

About to descend into the **upper reaches of Cedar Canyon** (L). Photo looks WNW.

The uphill trek soon resumed as a somewhat steeper climb. Once out of Cedar Canyon, tablelands were in sight beyond Wildcat Canyon. Views of Wildcat Canyon improved as Lupe continued on.

**Tablelands** (Center) beyond the **Wildcat Canyon region**. Photo look W.

**Wildcat Canyon** (R). **Nebraska** on the horizon again. Photo looks S.

A level stretch led to yet another gradual climb, which topped out near HP4154. However, there were enough trees up here to block any distant views, at least from along the road.

Approaching **HP4154** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Beyond HP4154, more open territory provided a good look at the upper reaches of one of the branches of Wildcat Canyon. However, the views were even better just a little farther on, when the road swung over to the NE side of the long ridge it was following. Looking across Buck Canyon, quite a few peaks Lupe had once been to long, long ago were in sight.

**Upper end of Wildcat Canyon** (beyond Lupe). Photo looks WNW.

Oh my gosh, SPHP! There’s Roundtop Hill (4,469 ft.) and the Seven Sisters Range (4,420 ft.)!

Yup. And if you look down Buck Canyon, Loopster, you can see not only Devils Slide Mountain (3,960 ft.) a mile or so from where we started, but Flagpole Mountain (4,320 ft.) as well.

**Roundtop Hill** (L) and **Seven Sisters Range** (R) beyond **Buck Canyon**. Photo looks NE.

**Devils Slide Mountain** (L of Center) and **Flagpole Mountain** (R) in the distance. **Buck Canyon** (foreground). Photo looks SE.

Looks like we’ve come a long way already, SPHP.

Yeah, we’ve definitely made some progress, Loop. Still 1.5+ miles to Line Camp Peak, though.

For the next 0.67 mile, USFS Road No. 647 ran along the shady SW side of Buck Canyon, all mushy and wet with melting snow. After going up this incline, the rate of climb greatly diminished as the road turned W again for a little way before resuming its NW course. In this flat region, a large power line soon appeared ahead.

Heading up the **muddy stretch along the SW side of Buck Canyon**. Photo looks NNW.

Hey! This power line might be why the line camp is on Line Camp Peak, SPHP.

Don’t know, Loop. According to the map, the line camp is still 0.67 mile NW. Seems sort of far. Plenty of excellent space right here for a camp, if it was meant to support the construction of this power line.

Continuing NW past the power line, it wasn’t much farther to a fork in the road. Taking the R fork, Lupe headed N through a huge, very gently sloping field. Line Camp Peak’s summit was now only another 0.25 mile, hidden somewhere among the pines directly ahead.

On the grassy **summit plateau of Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks N.

However, something else caught Lupe’s attention. Over toward the W end of the field, a whole herd of horses was hanging out near the area where the line camp was supposed to be.

**Horses** near the **Line Camp region**. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Oh, I love horses, SPHP! Do you suppose they’re friendly? Maybe we should go see them? We can check out the line camp, too!

Whether friendly or not, let’s leave ’em be, Loop. The line camp mystery is of secondary importance. Let’s do what we came to do, first.

12:32 PM, 60ºF, Line Camp Peak (4,530 ft.) – Located near the NE end of the enormous summit plateau, Line Camp Peak’s true summit proved to be along a rocky, pine-covered, E/W running ridge that rose 10-15 feet above the immediately surrounding area. Only tree-broken views were available from the top, but a little SE of the summit, Lupe enjoyed a great view to the E across multiple canyons.

**Seven Sisters Range** (L) and **Devils Slide Mountain** (R) from **Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks E.

On one of the highest boulders of the **summit ridge**. Photo looks NNW.

Tree-broken views from the **summit ridge**. Photo looks SE.

A long march, but an easy one! Congratulations, Loopster, you’ve made it to Line Camp Peak! May I shake your paw?

Not all of it was as easy as you make it sound, SPHP! But, yes, go ahead, you may shake my cactus-stabbed paw. Gently, please!

For the last day of January, this was an extraordinary day. Although wind now sighed in the treetops, the breeze was only light and variable at ground level, and at a sunny 60ºF, the air was pleasantly warm. For a while, Lupe and SPHP relaxed on patches of grass near the true summit after sharing water and a chocolate coconut bar.

There’d already been a few brief water and Taste of the Wild breaks on the way here, and the American Dingo scarfed up some more as SPHP munched on an apple. Facing S toward the main part of the plateau, a glimpse of Nebraska was visible between the trees.

The **break spot** next to the true summit. Photo looks ESE.

**Nebraska** (L of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

Time ticked away as it always does.

Very nice here, isn’t it, Looper?

Absolutely, SPHP. I loved all the canyon views and seeing some of the peaks we haven’t been to in a long time on the way here, too.

Me, too, Loop. Getting to be 1:00 PM, though, and the days aren’t very long this time of year.

We’ve only been here half an hour, SPHP. You aren’t saying we have to leave already, are you? Can’t we at least stay for the rest of my traditional summit hour? Or maybe you’re wanting to spend the second half of it checking out the line camp? I’d do that.

Actually have something else in mind. Horse Trap Mountain (4,682 ft.) is only a little over a mile N of here. Been a long time ago, but remember how scenic it was up there, Loopster? Would be fun to return for a little while, if the skinny ridge leading to it is negotiable.

A chance to visit Horse Trap Mountain again, SPHP? Let’s do it!

Alright. We better get with it, though, Loop. Taking on Horse Trap means we’ll be getting back long after dark, even if we leave right now. However, before we go, stand on the true summit of Line Camp Peak here again for a minute. There’s kind of an interesting view showing that there’s a hollow spot beneath it.

Back on the true summit of Line Camp Peak. Photo looks NW.

1:01 PM – Setting out for Horse Trap Mountain, Lupe wandered W along Line Camp Peak’s little summit ridge, turning NW once it melted away in the forest. To SPHP’s surprise, the Carolina Dog quickly discovered an old road that went N, exactly the direction she needed to go.

A short descent led to a grassy bench, where a cluster of rocks along the NW edge promised a grand view of Hell Canyon. Going over to them, the view didn’t disappoint at all.

On the **grassy bench** at the **far N end of Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks NW.

**Hell Canyon** from the **N end of Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks WSW.

Wow! This is gorgeous, Loop! Love this kind of territory. Doesn’t look like “Hell” Canyon at all to me.

Heh. Beautiful enough, SPHP. Probably full of cactus, though!

From the far N end of this bench, Lupe’s next objective was in sight.

**Horse Trap Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

There it is in all its glory, SPHP! Horse Trap Mountain! Doesn’t look like a difficult climb, either, if we can get down to the saddle leading to it.

Fortunately, getting to the saddle was no problem. The ancient jeep trail Lupe had found wound down to an intersection with USFS Road No. 327, which ran E/W right over it.

Following the **old jeep trail** (L) down to the saddle leading to **Horse Trap Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

**HP4656** (Center) above the **upper reaches of Hell Canyon**. Photo looks N.

**HP4500** (Center) along **Line Camp Peak’s E ridge**. Photo looks ESE.

Crossing the saddle, the wind was 20 mph out of the W as Lupe started up Horse Trap Mountain’s S ridge. This fairly steep climb was actually a bit dangerous for the Carolina Dog due to a pair of parallel barbed wire fences running straight up the ridgeline, one of which was flat on the ground much of the way.

At one point, SPHP had to give the American Dingo a boost at a rocky spot, although Lupe could have gone around it, if necessary. Views were already marvelous from a couple of high points crossed during the 450 foot ascent. From the second one, Lupe had a terrific view of Horse Trap Mountain’s S face.

A band of limestone cliffs running along the upper rim appeared to have enough breaks in it to ensure a successful ascent.

Heading up Horse Trap Mountain’s S ridge. **Line Camp Peak** (L), **Hell Canyon** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**S face of Horse Trap Mountain** from **HP4550**. Photo looks N.

Nothing to it! As Lupe closed in on the S face, a readily discernable trail went right on up. From atop the rocks along the S rim, Lupe enjoyed a tremendous view of Falls Canyon with Devils Slide Mountain (3,960 ft.) and Flagpole Mountain (4,320 ft.) beyond, and the prairies of western South Dakota stretching to the edge of vision beyond them.

Approaching the **S rim of Horse Trap Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

**Falls Canyon** (Center), **Devils Slide Mountain** (L of Center), **Flagpole Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SE.

**HP4550** (L) along **Horse Trap Mountain’s S ridge**. **Line Camp Peak** (Center), **Hell Canyon** (R). Photo looks SSW.

2:16 PM, 57ºF, Horse Trap Mountain (4,682 ft.) – Lupe had come up at the lower S end of a huge, oval summit plateau covered with grass and scattered pines. Sloping gently up to the N, this plateau was ringed by a line of small cliffs around virtually the entire perimeter. Having been here once before, the Carolina Dog knew the true summit was along the opposite NNW edge.

Any preferences, SPHP? Want to go straight for the true summit, or circle around the perimeter where all the big views are?

Around the perimeter, Loopster. After all, the unobstructed views from this island in the sky are what make Horse Trap Mountain so special.

Clockwise, or counter-clockwise then, SPHP?

Your choice, Loop. Either way is fine with me.

Lupe chose clockwise. Within minutes she reached a particularly scenic overlook along the SW edge from rock formations providing a superb view of Line Camp Peak, lower Hell Canyon, and barren ridges to the W.

**Line Camp Peak** (L edge), **Hell Canyon** (L), and **barren tablelands** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Line Camp Peak** (L), **Hell Canyon** (Center), **tablelands** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Circling around to the NW edge, the upper reaches of Hell Canyon were in sight. The top of Parker Peak (4,848 ft.), the Fall River county high point, was also visible, sticking up behind them.

**Parker Peak** (L of Center) beyond **upper Hell Canyon**. Photo looks NW.

2:27 PM – The wind was only 5-10 mph out of the NW by the time Lupe reached the true summit of Horse Trap Mountain after a leisurely stroll around the W end of the plateau. A couple of photos atop the summit rock, the usual congratulatory pawshake, and it was time for a break.

At the **true summit of Horse Trap Mountain**. Photo looks NNW.

**Parker Peak** (R) from the **true summit**. Photo looks WNW.

Taking it easy on **Horse Trap Mountain**. **Parker Peak** (Center), **true summit rock** (R). Photo looks NW.

Hard to believe we’re here again after all these years, Loop! So glad we came! Horse Trap Mountain is every bit as fabulous as I remembered it.

Most definitely agree, SPHP! Easily worthy of a chocolate coconut bar, maybe 2 or 3!

Um, yeah. Only one left, Loopster, but I do have a duck jerky for you, too.

Both were eagerly accepted, along with Taste of the Wild and water, then Lupe laid her head down.

Mind if I snooze for a bit, SPHP?

Not at all, Looper. It’s already been a long day.

SPHP drank a strawberry Equate and chomped the last apple. Only the sound of the wind broke a perfect silence. Amazing, unspoiled territory of this remote part of the Black Hills laid in all directions.

A glimpse of Elk Benchmark (5,669 ft.) and Wildcat Peak (5,500 ft.) was far to the NW. Black Elk Peak (7,131 ft.) was but a distant blip to the N. SPHP peered into Hell Canyon. Gorgeous, but Lupe might be right. Maybe it was full of cactus?

After a short nap, the Carolina Dog woke up and accompanied SPHP on a stroll to other nearby viewpoints.

**Parker Peak** (L) again. Photo looks NW.

**Horse Trap Mountain summit plateau**. Photo looks SE.

3:15 PM, Horse Trap Mountain – The inevitable sad moment arrived.

About time to get back on the top rock, Loop.

Summit hour’s over already, SPHP?

Hate to say it, but yup, pretty quick now, Loopster.

At least we can still enjoy completing our circumnavigation of the summit plateau, SPHP.

Final moments on the **true summit of Horse Trap Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

A brief return to the true summit, and Lupe was on her way, this time circling around the E end of the plateau.

Leaving the true summit region. Photo looks E.

The views were grand going this way, too. All too soon, Lupe was back at the S end of the plateau, ready to start her descent along the S ridge.

**Falls Canyon** (L & Center) from the E edge. **Devils Slide Mountain** (L) and **Flagpole Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

**Roundtop Hill** (Center in foreground). Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

Back at the S end. **HP4550** and **Line Camp Peak** (L of Center), **Hell Canyon** (R). Photo looks S.

4:43 PM, 55ºF – The wind had died completely, and the rapidly setting sun was already on the horizon by the time the American Dingo reached the summit of Line Camp Peak (4,530 ft.) again. She wouldn’t get much of a rest break at all here this time around.

Sunset from the **summit of Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks W.

Enjoy it while you can, Looper. 10 minutes, then we’re moving on.

What about the line camp, SPHP? Are we ever going to check it out?

Yup. That’s why we’re in a rush. Going to be too dark to see anything, if we don’t get over there pretty quick.

The last rays of sunshine were filtering through the trees as Lupe headed SW across the big field where the horses had been earlier in the day. No sign of them now. SPHP overshot the turn W to the line camp. Lupe was well on her way to HP4509 before SPHP realized the error.

Doubling back in haste, dusk was deepening among the pines when the Carolina Dog reached the location marked as the line camp on the map. Nothing here. No towers, sheds, shacks, or other structures at all, only a few pieces of metal quietly rusting away in the tall grass.

So what makes this a line camp, SPHP?

No idea, Loop. Only our cartographer knows for sure. Had no idea what to expect from a line camp, and still don’t, except maybe not much at all.

Exploring farther along the N edge of the point W of the line camp, trees hid the views, except from one spot where Lupe caught a final glimpse of a familiar sight.

**Horse Trap Mountain** (L) from **W of the Line Camp**. Photo looks NNE.

And that was it. The return march back along USFS Road No. 647 was even easier now going downhill. Lupe barked at a small plane that flew almost directly overhead while there was still light in the sky. However, it wasn’t long before the tiny flashlight had to come out.

On this black, moonless night, the Milky Way was stunningly bright. Rising in the SE, Orion was directly ahead. Back to the N, the Big Dipper stood on end. Geese honked as they flew by unseen, and coyotes sang a wild, mournful chorus before silence reigned again. Many miles away widely dispersed lights revealed the locations of remote ranch homes.

Nearly 14 hours after leaving the RAV, Lupe forded Cascade Creek again, completely unfazed by the jet black water or ghostly mist rising from it.

Line Camp Peak and Horse Trap Mountain! What a magnificent day they had been! (9:55 PM, 36ºF)

**Line Camp Peak** from **Horse Trap Mountain**, Black Hills of South Dakota 1-31-24

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