Dingo Vacations – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-25-23)

Days 1 & 2, and Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-23-23, 11:30 AM, 82ºF – On her pink blanket atop pillows and various gear, the Carolina Dog was excited!

Ready to roll whenever you are, SPHP!

If I’ve forgotten anything else, we’re just going to have to buy it somewhere along the way. Show time, sweet puppy!

Turning the key, SPHP backed the RAV4 out of the driveway. Lupe’s grand and glorious 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska was underway!

Stops to sniff the air and stretch were few and far between on this first day. Lupe kept a nose out for cows and horses, but there didn’t seem to be as many of them this year. Probably huddled around whatever water or shade they could find. All through Wyoming, temperatures were in the mid-90’s °F as the RAV4 raced W along I-90.

Montana was an oven! 101ºF when SPHP dashed into Albertson’s in Billings to grab an 8-piece baked chicken deal. No time to get anything else in there, or the American Dingo would have baked, too, stuck in the RAV4 without the AC on, even with the windows down.

7-23-23, 8:28 PM – At 73ºF, conditions in the Little Belt Mountains were much more tolerable by the time Lupe bounded out of the RAV4 full of enthusiasm.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)! Love it here, SPHP! Any preference? Want to climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) first?

Sun will be down soon, Loop, so we only have time for one or the other this evening. How about Kings Hill? We can do Porphyry in the morning.

Shortly after cutting through the forest up to USFS Road No. 487, thunder rumbled in the distance. Lightning played among the dark clouds to the S, and a light rain began to fall.

7-23-23, 9:07 PM, 68ºF, Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) – The rain was already over and done with by the time the American Dingo reached the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. An orange glow was on the WNW horizon, and some of the clouds overhead glittered like gold.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from **Kings Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

By the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Looks promising! Maybe there’s going to be a nice sunset, SPHP?

You might be right, Looper. Let’s go over by the edge to watch the show.

Going a little down the WNW slope, Lupe sat watching the developing display. The air was cool, fresh, and the clearest it had ever been on any of Lupe’s prior visits to Kings Hill.

The sunset turned out to be the best one ever, too.

Sunset from **Kings Hill**. **Porphyry Peak** (L). Photo looks NW.

7-24-23, 7:20 AM, 69ºF – Although this was going to be another travel day, as promised, Lupe got to start the morning with a jaunt up USFS Roads No. 838 & No. 6388 to visit the Showdown ski facilities and fire lookout tower on Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

At the base of the **Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower**. Photo looks E.

The **survey benchmark** that was in front of Lupe in the previous photo.

Heading over to the Showdown ski lifts. Photo looks ESE.

**Fire lookout tower** (L), **Showdown ski facility** (R). Photo looks NW.

The most impressive views were of Big Baldy Mountain, which Lupe had once been to, and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.).

**Big Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Yogo Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

We ought to visit Yogo Peak, too, SPHP!

Maybe someday, Looper, but not today. Canada and Alaska, remember? This is it for your morning constitutional. C’mon, we need to get back to the RAV4 and make some tracks.

Using one of the ski runs as a bit of a shortcut, Lupe headed down to the roads leading back to Kings Hill Pass.

Leaving **Porphyry Peak**. **Big Baldy Mountain** (R of Center), **Yogo Peak** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

The shortcut back to the USFS roads. Photo looks NW.

Driving out of the Little Belt Mountains, SPHP stopped briefly at the Al Buck Memorial Park so Lupe could get a drink from the spring gushing out of a hillside. Other than a couple of quick stops for food and fuel, that was it before crossing into Canada at the N end of I-15 at 12:57 PM.

Enjoying a drink from the spring at the **Al Buck Memorial Park** along Hwy 89.

At midday, even the Canadian border was a scorching 99ºF! Despite the heat, Lupe left the cool comfort of the RAV4’s AC long enough to pose by the Alberta welcome sign.

The **Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood** returns to **Canada**!

Another long drive with only occasional brief stops ensued. By early evening, the Carolina Dog was back in the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

7-24-23, 6:30 PM, 85ºF, Banff – As usual, beautiful Banff was jam-packed with tourists, and justifiably so. A couple of changes were evident since Lupe had been here last year. It was no longer possible to drive along Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown, which was now reserved solely for pawdestrians, and the fancy new upstream pawbridge over the Bow River that had been under construction in 2022 was now complete and open to the public.

Lupe’s evening in Banff began with a stroll along the turquoise blue Bow River. Famous Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) was in sight as she crossed the new upstream pawbridge, while the downstream bridge offered a great view of the N end of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.).

**Cascade Mountain** (Center) beyond the new upstream pawbridge. Photo looks N.

**Mount Rundle** (Center) from the downstream bridge. Photo looks SE.

Continuing downstream, Lupe visited Bow Falls, which was more like a steep rapids than a vertical waterfall, but awesome nevertheless. From there, a trail led up to the historic Banff Springs Hotel.

Along the **Bow River** below the falls. Photo looks E.

The historic **Banff Springs Hotel**. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with a long-standing Banff tradition – Lupe’s Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown.

Lupe’s one-Dingo **Pretty Puppy Parade** in the center of **Banff**.

7-25-23, 6:37 AM, 66ºF – Early sunshine was peeping through the clouds on this breezy, unsettled morning, and Banff was still quiet as Lupe left town. At least, it was quiet until the Carolina Dog spotted several giant deers. Nearly tame, they seemed more perplexed than alarmed as they were subjected to ferocious barking emitting from the RAV4.

Guess you told them, didn’t you, Loopster? A bit rudely, though.

Giant deers are incredibly exciting, SPHP! Right on the edge of town, too! A great start to a great day. Now that we’ve made it to the Canadian Rockies, what’s on the agenda?

Been ages since we’ve seen the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass. Thinking we might do that, Looper. We can stop at a few favorite spots along the way, too, if you like.

Sounds terrific, SPHP!

It was a fine plan. However, driving W on Hwy 1, the sky soon became very dark. The mountains turned gray, then vanished amid heavy rain.

Shucks, Loop! Looks we’re going to miss out on the Canadian Rockies, and get stuck with a rainy day drive. Sorry! Nothing I can do about it, though.

Most disappointing! However, current conditions were deceptive. By the time the RAV4 reached Lake Louise, the rain was over and blue sky was ahead.

7-25-23, 7:49 AM, 42ºF, Bow Lake picnic area along Icefields Parkway No. 93 – So much for the baking heat of the plains! SPHP dug a couple more layers of clothing out of the duffle bags, put them on, then accompanied the Carolina Dog down to the lakeshore. Beyond the rippled surface, a red roof stood out way over along opposite N shore.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (R of Center) beyond **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls and Mount Jimmy Simpson starts over there, remember, SPHP? That’s the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge!

Of, course! Awesome times, sweet puppy! However, they’ve now changed the name from Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, to just the Lodge at Bow Lake. Easier to remember, I suppose.

7-25-23, 8:57 AM, – Lupe’s next stop was only a few km farther N. The L turn off Icefields Parkway No. 93 for the Peyto Lake overlook came at the top of Bow Pass. Surprisingly, the 0.6 km paved trail to the overlook had been rerouted since the last time the American Dingo was here. The view deck was new, too, and much larger than it used to be.

Across the deep valley the lake was nestled in, Cauldron Peak (9,580 ft.) towered over the far shore, with Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) standing like a sentinel along the edge of the Mistaya River valley, where a long line of magnificent mountains stretched off to the N horizon.

At the fancy new **Peyto Lake view deck**. **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** from the end of the deck. **Mount Patterson** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** with **Cauldron Mountain** (L), **Mount Patterson** (Center), **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Love how Peyto Lake has such an amazing, milky, turquoise blue color! Don’t you, SPHP?

Oh, of course! That’s because it’s a glacier-fed lake, Loopster. Remember your Search for the Peyto Glacier? We took a primitive trail down to Peyto Creek from here, and wandered up the valley.

We never did find the Peyto Glacier, SPHP.

Beyond our abilities, Loopster, but we had a great time. If you look SW up the valley, you can actually see Peyto Peak (9,711 ft.) and part of the Peyto Glacier from right here on the view deck.

**Peyto Glacier** (Center), **Peyto Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Peyto Glacier** (L), **Peyto Peak** (R), **Peyto Creek** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Once upon a time, the American Dingo had also taken a shorter trail from here to Bow Summit, a high spot with a gorgeous view of Bow Lake back to the S, although admittedly not as grand as the one from Mount Jimmy Simpson.

However, with Wilcox Pass on the agenda, Lupe didn’t visit Bow Summit again today. A final quick stop at the Carson Creek picnic ground along the North Saskatchewan River, where SPHP got the pack ready, was it before the main event.

**North Saskatchewan River** from the Carson Creek picnic ground. Photo looks SE.

7-25-23, 11:04 AM, 48ºF – As Icefields Parkway No. 93 went up and over Sunwapta Pass, the Carolina Dog left Banff National Park behind, and entered Jasper National Park. Wilcox Creek campground was only 2.5 km farther on the R. For a change, the severely under-sized Wilcox Pass trailhead near the entrance to the campground wasn’t entirely overrun. SPHP was lucky enough to grab a vacant parking spot for the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way!

The incredibly popular Wilcox Pass trail began with a short climb into the forest along a broad, smooth path. Before long, the trail was even wider and covered with a multitude of roots. After a fairly flat section, the trail began climbing at a good clip, eventually flattening out shortly before leading to a boardwalk with a set of stairs.

Near the start of the **Wilcox Pass trail**.

Beyond the boardwalk, the trail climbed more steeply again. The first viewpoint came soon after going around a bend NW, but only hinted at the glories yet to come. An open slope a little farther on revealed much more. Although the Athabasca Glacier wasn’t in sight yet, Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) were.

**Snow Dome** (L), **Mount Kitchener** (R) from the first good viewpoint. Photo looks W.

The Wilcox Pass trail leveled out to some degree as it continued NW through another stretch of forest. When Lupe reached the next open slope, most of the Athabasca Glacier was in view.

Along the last stretch of dense forest. Photo looks NW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (Center), **Mount Kitchener** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Something new was ahead! Two red chairs faced the already grand view of the glacier flanked by Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda on the L, and Snow Dome and Mount Kitchener on the R. Lupe got up on a platform connecting the chairs, braving a brisk SW breeze.

Red chairs viewpoint. **Mount Kitchener** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center). Photo looks S.

What a great spot, Loopster! If one didn’t feel like going any farther, these chairs wouldn’t be a bad place to hang out. Both Hilda Peak (9,974 ft.) and the top of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) are in sight, in addition to all the big peaks over by the Athabasca Glacier.

Don’t get any ideas, SPHP. We’re going all the way to Wilcox Pass!

The red chairs were near treeline. Only scattered stands of increasingly stunted forest and bushes were ahead, as tundra-covered slopes began to dominate. A relatively flat section of the trail continued a bit farther NW toward a big gully below the Wilcox Pass region, which was now starting to come into view.

Near the gully, the trail veered N, climbing steeply for 200 feet before once again angling NW. The slope steadily diminished as Lupe entered a rumpled region of low bushes, tundra, and small rock formations.

The flat stretch of trail beyond the red chairs. **Mount Wilcox** (far L). **Wilcox Pass region** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Above the steepest stretch. **Big gully** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

In the **rumpled region**. Photo looks NW.

The Wilcox Pass trail kept flattening, literally becoming a stroll in the park – Jasper National Park! By the time Lupe reached the shallow stream that flowed into the gully, most of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in view, and Wilcox Pass wasn’t much farther.

From a rock outcropping capping a small rise near the stream, a huge ridge was in sight beyond Mount Wilcox.

Recognize that ridge, Loop? You were there since the last time we visited Wilcox Pass.

Hmm. Not sure, SPHP. Give me a hint!

Well, it’s possible to continue over Wilcox Pass along this trail and wind up over there, but that’s not how we did it. Instead we started down by Tangle Falls where the NW end of the Wilcox Pass trail reaches Icefields Parkway No. 93 again.

Tangle Falls! That’s a great hint, SPHP. That must be Tangle Ridge! Oh, that was another great day in the Canadian Rockies!

Indeed it was, Loopster! Fun to see Tangle Ridge again from here.

Closing in on **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Wilcox** (L of Center), **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

About to cross the **shallow stream**. Photo looks NW.

**Tangle Ridge** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 12:35 PM, 41ºF – Wilcox Pass was so cold and windy when Lupe arrived, that SPHP dumped the pack then layered up – stocking cap, coat, gloves, the whole bit. Although the Carolina Dog had seen surprisingly few people thus far, plenty were up here, all dressed like winter was coming while exploring the vast Wilcox Pass region.

**Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Hilda Peak** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (R) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks S.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

A sign said it was 1.4 km to Wilcox Ridge. As awesome as all the wide open spaces were at Wilcox Pass, the pass was never the Carolina Dog’s ultimate destination. Wilcox Ridge was where the stupendous view of the Athabasca Glacier was. Lupe always went there! Despite the cold wind, coming all the way to Wilcox Pass and not going to Wilcox Ridge would be simply ridiculous.

**Wilcox Ridge** from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks W.

The spur trail heading W up into the Wilcox Ridge region used to fade away, simply becoming more of a choose-your-own-path route once it turned SW. However, the trail was now very distinct. If there was any question at all about it, new cairns held together by wire cages, each bearing a yellow diamond, marked the way.

More than halfway to the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint, Lupe came to a long rock wall serving as a windbreak. That was new, too. The Carolina Dog was glad one thing hadn’t changed. Bighorn mountain sheep still grazed these windswept slopes.

Signage at the Wilcox Pass trail junction.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) from one of the yellow diamond cairns. Photo looks S.

At the rock wall windbreak. Photo looks SW.

The Wilcox Ridge Trail went over a series of minor ridges and ravines on the way to what appeared to be a more formal viewpoint than Lupe had ever seen here before. Quite a few people were already present as the American Dingo arrived. Preferring more solitude, SPHP decided to take a side route farther W, closer to the SE end of the narrow ridge leading up Mount Wilcox before selecting another spot along the SW edge where Lupe could relax on a patch of tundra.

Approaching the **Wilcox Ridge Athabasca Glacier viewpoint**. Photo looks SW.

Heading a little farther W before taking a break. **Mount Wilcox** (R). Photo looks W.

7-25-23, 1:36 PM, 43ºF – The 30 mph gale sweeping in from the SW felt really cold at the viewpoint SPHP had chosen. Fortunately, conditions weren’t nearly as bad while relaxing just a few feet back from the edge. Facing SW directly into the breeze, Lupe once again enjoyed one of the most magnificent easily accessible views in the Canadian Rockies.

Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) on the L, and Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) on the R, with the Athabasca Glacier between them, flowing down from the almost entirely hidden Columbia Icefield.

Looking S. **Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (R).

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (R), **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SW.

Still a truly incredible scene, SPHP, but there isn’t as much snow and ice as I remember.

Yup. The Athabasca Glacier is steadily retreating, Loopster. One day in the not too distant future, it will be but a memory.

That’s a terribly sad thought, SPHP! This has to be one of my favorite places in the Canadian Rockies, although seeing the Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge, Berg Lake at the base of Mount Robson , Moraine Lake, and Lake Louise all rank way up there, too.

All fabulous choices, Looper. However, if we were limited to being able to come back to only one spot in the Canadian Rockies ever again, I might well choose Wilcox Pass and this view. Most spectacular scenic reward for a half day hike there is!

Peering over the edge, Sunwapta Lake, the meltwater pond that used to be at the toe of the glacier once upon a time, and the Icefields Centre, where it’s possible to get tickets to actually ride in a snowcoach up onto the Athabasca Glacier, were in sight 1,400 feet below. Looking back to the ESE, Sunwapta Pass and Nigel Peak were in view.

**Icefields Centre** (Center) down by **Icefields Parkway No. 93**. **Sunwapta Lake** (R) below the toe of the **Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks ESE.

**Nigel Peak** (L) and **Sunwapta Pass** (R). Photo looks ESE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this marvelous scene for the first time in nearly 7 years, then shared a chocolate coconut bar with her.

For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP hung out together in the cold breeze, admiring the glory in all directions, chief of which was the splendid panorama of the Athabasca glacier and surrounding mighty peaks.

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), part of **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Happy Lupe with **Mount Athabasca** (L) and the **Athabasca Glacier** (R) beyond her. Photo looks S.

Oh, we’ll never get tired of Wilcox Pass and these views of the Athabasca Glacier, will we, SPHP?

Not even if we live to be 100, Loopster!

7-25-23, 2:38 PM – Absent-mindedly, SPHP shook the box, then looking down realized it was empty.

Holy moly, Loop! I’ve eaten an entire box of Dots sitting here. Guess I’ll be on a sugar high now! Sadly, our hour at this splendid perch has flown. Ready to move on?

Hate to leave, SPHP, but more adventures lie ahead, don’t they?

Gobs of ’em, Looper, a whole Dingo Vacation chock full of them!

A final appreciative look, and Lupe was on her way.

**Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (far R).

After leaving her fabulous viewpoint, Lupe explored the region closer to the SE end of Mount Wilcox. Great fun, but all too quickly, she arrived back at Wilcox Pass. Still awesome views all around, but just a matter of following the trail back now.

Leaving the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint. **Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Back at **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L edge), **Tangle Ridge** (Center). Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 4:06 PM, 52ºF – Warmer, actually quite pleasant, with scarcely even a breeze, when Lupe leapt back onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 at the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Wilcox Pass, and lots of beautiful places on the way to it! My 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska is off to a terrific start, SPHP!

And still time enough for more sight-seeing yet today, Loop. Hope you’re in the mood for some awesome Canadian Rockies waterfalls, sweet puppy!

I am! Turn the key, and let’s hit the road N. Onward! SPHP, ho!

The **Athabasca Glacier**, **Snow Dome** & **Mount Kitchener** from **Wilcox Ridge**, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Peyto Lake & Lupe’s Search for the Peyto Glacier, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-26-13)

Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Wheeler Peak, Sangre de Cristo Range, the New Mexico State High Point (6-27-23)

Days 20 – 22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-26-23, 12:43 PM, Taos Ski Village – On the deck overlooking a rushing stream, SPHP sipped on a cherry sour.

Mushroom Swiss burger, Loop! Sure you don’t want a bite? Very tasty!

Lupe sat in the shade, content to merely watch SPHP eat while enjoying the sound of the water. The Carolina Dog could have gone into Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House; it was a dog friendly establishment, but SPHP was so filthy that avoiding the rest of the clientele as much as possible seemed prudent.

Out on the **Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House deck**.

Not interested, aye? Your loss, Loopster! Guess I’ll polish off the whole burger then.

After a steep, dusty drive up a wide gravel road, Lupe spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the Williams Lake trailhead. 40+ vehicles were there when SPHP pulled the RAV4 into the last available parking spot, but the popular trailhead began emptying out as the day wore on.

**Rich Peak (12,535 ft.)** (L of Center) from the **Williams Lake trailhead**. Photo looks S.

By evening, the American Dingo had a change of heart. Back at Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House again, this time when SPHP ordered a second Swiss Mushroom burger plus french fries, Lupe was not only a willing participant, but eager to make up for her earlier abstinence.

6-27-23, 7:27 AM – The big paved parking lot at the entrance to the Taos Ski Village that had been jam packed yesterday was practically empty when Lupe leapt out of the RAV4.

We’re leaving from here, SPHP? What happened to the Williams Lake trailhead?

A nice guy named John at the little barn-like visitor center gave me a nifty trail system map yesterday, Loop. We can start from here, and make a huge loop coming back down that way. Longer and more elevation gain the way we’re going, but you can tag a few more peaks along the way, too.

As long as we still make it to Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.), that’s fine, SPHP. Loops are awesome; I’m practically named after them! Don’t want to miss out on only my 6th state high point ever, though.

Eh, never any guarantees in the mountains, Loopster. You know that. The forecast is kind of iffy no matter which way we go. If the weather holds up, we’ll make it. Trail all the way!

So where do we go, SPHP?

The Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead is right here, Looper, a couple hundred feet from the visitor center. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Bound for the top of New Mexico, the Carolina Dog set out on Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The paved parking lot at the **entrance to the Taos Ski Village**. The **barn-shaped shed** on the L is the **visitor information center**. Photo looks SE.

**Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead**. The gravel road on the R goes to the Williams Lake trailhead.

**Free trail system map** available at the visitor center.

Entering the forest, the single track trail became broad and rather rocky. Climbing NE at a good clip, it paralleled an unseen stream hidden among the trees off to the R. After a 15 minute trek, Lupe came to a spot with a view of the stream, which was now quite close to the trail.

Pressing on, Trail No. 90 became less rocky, and sometimes leveled out. Another 20 minutes, during which glimpses of the stream continued to appear, got the American Dingo to a tributary coming down from Long Canyon. SPHP was happy to see a makeshift bridge of branches.

**Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. More roots and fewer rocks now. Photo looks NE.

Hah! Don’t even have to get our paws wet, Looper!

It’s summer! Nothing wrong with cooling your paws off, SPHP.

Beyond the ford, Lupe reached a junction with Long Canyon Trail No. 63.

At the **junction of Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90** and **Long Canyon Trail No. 63**.

Junction signage. **Long Canyon Trail No. 63** (L).

Sticking with Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90, the broad single track trail soon merged with an old roadbed. Despite the absence of any other obstacles, due to the steepness of the incline, SPHP had to keep pausing to gasp for air. With no views other than the forest, the road trek quickly became monotonous.

The rate of climb finally diminished as Lupe approached Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture.

Arriving at **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks NNE.

Located in the saddle region between Gold Hill (12,711 ft.) 2.5 miles NW, and Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) less than 0.75 mile S, Bull-of-the Woods Pasture was not at all what SPHP expected.

You thought there would be more grass, SPHP?

Yeah, guess it was the word “pasture” that threw me, Loop. Kind of thought we might be able to see something from up here, too.

Well, it does have the “woods” part down, SPHP.

I’ll grant you that, Looper.

Actually there was a clearing at Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture, it just wasn’t as extensive as SPHP had envisioned. Furthermore, although Gold Hill wasn’t in sight, the forested N side of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain was.

**Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks SSE.

Gold Hill Trail No. 64 branched off to the L here. Taking Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 instead, it immediately curled SE, crossing a creek issuing from a small pond. The dirt road ahead looked new, and the sound of machinery came from this direction. Following this road, a single track trail soon branched off to the R as a light rain began to fall.

A sign said “Redi’s Run”.

At the **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture pond and stream.** Photo looks NE.

On the new, or at least recently graded, dirt road. **Redi’s Run trail** (R).

Redi’s Run? Hang on, Loop, let’s get off the road. Not sure which way we need to go here.

Putting on the red rain jacket as it began raining harder, SPHP then checked the maps.

Hmm. No Redi’s Run mentioned on any of these maps, not even the one from the visitor center.

Maybe Redi is the name of the Bull-of-the-Woods, SPHP? He might come running through here at any moment!

Hope not. Didn’t bring any red capes to dodge him with.

Use your rain jacket, SPHP. It’s red!

Wasn’t necessary. An approaching roar proved to be a loaded logging truck coming down the road. A few minutes later, an empty truck backed up it.

Since Redi’s Run seemed destined to go downhill rather than up, once the empty logging truck disappeared from sight, Lupe followed it. She soon came to the place where it was being loaded.

Approaching the logging operation. Photo looks SE.

Rather than charge through all the activity, SPHP encouraged Lupe to go around it. Upon regaining the road on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain’s N ridge, the Carolina Dog enjoyed her first distant view of the day, a look at Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) beyond the Red River valley.

**Red River valley** (Center), **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

Despite cloudy skies, the sun reappeared. However, as Lupe continued along the freshly graded logging road around the upper W slopes of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain, the sky darkened again.

Circling around **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

Reaching the N end of Pass 11514, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 turned S as a single track, parting from the road, which veered N. Lupe took shelter beneath a spruce tree as it began to rain again.

Nothing too serious yet, but this might not be our day, Looper.

Don’t give up so easily, SPHP.

Oh, I’m not, Loopster! The top of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain is real close, though, only 100 feet higher up the road. Won’t take us long. Want to tag the summit so you can claim at least one peakbagging success today no matter what else happens?

I’m all in, SPHP!

As soon as the rain abated, the American Dingo followed the road N.

Approaching the **Bull-of-the-Woods summit region**. Photo looks N.

The free trail system map from the visitor center didn’t mention it, but the topo maps showed mines on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain. As Lupe approached the summit region, forest gave way to a ridge of loose rock that had clearly been disturbed. Going around the W end of this ridge, the Carolina Dog found a wide, almost level gash that had been carved across the mountain. Beyond the gap, a higher ridge looked natural.

6-27-23, 10:15 AM, 50ºF, Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) – A short scramble to the top of this second ridge, and Lupe reached a pile of rocks evidently serving as a loosely assembled cairn. The Carolina Dog might have enjoyed the excellent view of Fraser Mountain (12,163 ft.), her next objective due S, but conditions were none too pleasant.

A 20-25 mph W wind swept over the barren, exposed summit driving a cold light rain.

**Fraser Mountain** (Center) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. **Peak 13054** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain offered other views, too, notably Gold Hill (12,716 ft.) off to the NNW. However, a few minutes atop the wet, windy summit was enough. Lupe returned to the road and protection of the forest. By the time the American Dingo got back to where Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 left the road near Pass 11514, the rain had ended.

Back at **Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. **Pass 11514** (Center) ahead. Photo looks S.

Well, phooey! Sorry about that, Loop. Seems we tagged Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain at the worst possible moment.

Still counts as a peakbagging success, SPHP. Maybe we’ll be luckier at Fraser Mountain?

Continuing down to the saddle at Pass 11514, Lupe crossed it. Trail No. 90 switchbacked SW, then SE, climbing through thick forest. Reaching a clearing where the trail turned SW again, it provided a terrific view of Gold Hill and mining-scarred Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain back to the N.

**Gold Hill** (L) and **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

From this viewpoint, Trail No. 90 headed straight for the closest of a long line of snowbanks on the E side of the enormous ridge leading to Frazer Mountain, promptly vanishing beneath the snow. Climbing up and over the first snowbank, Lupe found no sign of the trail beyond it. However, the general direction she needed to go was clear. Heading S across flat, open ground, the Carolina Dog made rapid progress.

Heading for the big snowbanks on the E side of the ridge leading to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSW.

Searching for Trail No. 90 again on the way to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the flat part of the gently rounded ridge, Lupe picked up Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again, which gradually climbed S along the windy W side of the ridge. At treeline now, the views were awesome! Kachina Peak (12,481 ft.) and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) were both in sight on the opposite side of the Taos Ski Valley, still sporting some snow.

**Lake Fork Peak** (Center), **Kachina Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

The trail went by the upper end of a forested section, then remained out on open ground as it went clear to the top of Frazer Mountain’s N ridge. In addition to seeing all the gorgeous peaks towering over the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley, Lupe got to sniff some stunning wildflowers along the way.

Heading for the top of the ridge after passing the forested section. **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 reached the top of the ridge only 0.1 mile N of Frazer Mountain, but did not go up to the summit, instead swinging over to the E side of the ridge. The W wind was especially powerful on top of the ridge, but Lupe enjoyed a bit of relief over on the protected E side.

However, the American Dingo wasn’t about to skip Frazer Mountain! After a brief respite from the wind, she left the trail, heading up the E slope in search of the true summit.

6-27-23, 11:50 AM, 52ºF, Frazer Mountain (12,163 ft.) – A 70 foot climb got Lupe to the top of a broad, flat summit region sprinkled with rocks amid tundra and wildflowers. Four mountain sheep who didn’t care to make the acquaintance of a Carolina Dog added excitement, racing away to the S as they abandoned these heights where the wind was 30 mph out of the WNW.

One of four Fraser Mountain mountain sheep.

From a cairn near the S end, Lupe had a terrific view of the territory ahead. Two big humps were now visible along the ridge leading S to Peak 13045. For the first time, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) was also in sight.

**Peak 13045** (L), **Wheeler Peak** (L of Center), **Peak 12819** (R), and **Lake Fork Peak** (far R) from **Fraser Mountain**. Photo looks S.

The highest ground on Fraser Mountain was a bit back to the N, so Lupe headed over there to tag what appeared to be the true summit, an area scarcely any higher than the rest of the summit plateau. Upon getting there, SPHP made a discovery.

Well, shucks, Loop. Our GPS track messed up and quit recording before we even got to Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain.

Good spot to start a new one, SPHP. Then let’s get down out of this wind!

Heading back to the S end of Fraser Mountain’s summit plateau, Lupe began a rather steep descent on the open slope leading back down to Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The region E of the next big hump to the S looked like the easiest route to Peak 13045 and ultimately Wheeler Peak, but shortly after reaching Trail No. 90 again, it turned E, continuing to lose elevation. Naturally, the trail ought to have worked, too, but upon reaching a forest, it immediately vanished beneath mounds of snow.

At the **S end of Fraser Mountain** about to head down to the L to pick up Trail No. 90 again. **Peak 13045** (far L), **Wheeler Peak** (L), **Lake Fork Peak** (far R). Photo looks S.

Entering the forest as Trail No. 90 vanishes beneath the snow. Photo looks SSE.

While Lupe had no problem with it, SPHP soon found post-holing in deep snow amid dense forest without a clue where the trail had gone rather discouraging.

Ugh! We should have just stayed up on the easy terrain E of that next hill, Loop. This is ridiculous!

Want to go back, SPHP? We can.

Yeah, but instead of going back along the trail, Loopster, let’s just angle SW until we get above all these trees and snow.

Snow extended all the way up to where the trees were mere stunted miniatures of the ones down in the main forest. Traversing this steep, rocky, upper slope was slow going. However, once far enough S, open terrain on the opposite E side of a shallow valley looked much better.

About to cross the shallow valley ahead. **Peak 13045** (L). Photo looks S.

After crossing the valley, Lupe’s off-trail exploration got substantially easier. She’d made it to the La Cal Basin, a flat, obstacle-free region.

Progress was excellent until the American Dingo turned E, starting a steep climb straight up the W side of Peak 13045’s massive NNE ridge. SPHP frequently paused to gasp for air. Fortunately, less than halfway up, Lupe came across Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again.

Exposed once more to the powerful W wind, switchbacking gradually higher, the trail made getting to the ridgeline easier. Reaching the crest, Peak 13045 was directly ahead, with Mount Walter (13,133 ft.) in view less than 0.25 mile beyond it. Looking ESE, Horseshoe Lake was in sight nearly 1,000 feet below.

**La Cal Basin** (L), **Frazer Mountain** (R foreground), and **Gold Hill** (far R) from partway up **Peak 13045‘s NNE ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Approaching **Peak 13045** (R). **Mount Walter** (L). Photo looks S.

**Horseshoe Lake** (Center) from Peak 13045’s NNE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Continuing up Peak 13045’s NE slope, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 made a few short switchbacks, but did not go all the way to the top. Instead, the trail began traversing the upper E slope. However, Lupe soon came to a snowbank where the trail vanished.

On **Peak 13045‘s upper E slope**. **Mount Walter summit** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

The snow’s too steep, Loopster! Don’t chance it.

Backtracking a bit to snow-free ground, Lupe abandoned the trail again and started climbing.

6-27-23, 2:46 PM – 60 feet was enough to get the Carolina Dog to the top of the small, flat, rocky plain that was the summit of Peak 13045. Only the W half of this plain was snow-free, but that was sufficient. Mount Walter was now directly ahead beyond a small saddle, and Wheeler Peak was less than half a mile farther.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Wheeler Peak** (R) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks S.

The route was open, the top of New Mexico within reach, but was Lupe too late? The W wind was stronger than ever up here, and although blue sky still dominated S and SE, at all points W, dark clouds and a long, gray line of rain showers were being driven this way.

**Peak 12819** (L) **Williams Lake** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R of Center) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks SW.

Our timing is looking worse than ever, SPHP.

I know it. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Setting off at speed, Lupe had barely crossed the saddle leading to Mount Walter and started up its N ridge when a few raindrops fell, stinging due to the force of the steadily increasing gale. Thunder rumbled. W of the trail, a grassy slope was below a big snowbank.

Go down there, Looper! No sense in being complete idiots, and getting ourselves fried right on the crest of the ridge!

Running NW down the slope a little way, SPHP dumped the pack, layered up as much as possible with the red rain jacket over all, then sat down.

On my lap, Loop! I’ve got another coat I can put over you.

Leaving **Peak 13045** for **Mount Walter** (R). **Red Dome** (L). Photo looks SE.

This open slope a few 10’s of feet below the ridgeline was it for shelter. Gonna to have to face whatever the storm dished out.

The wind came in swirling in from various directions, but mostly from straight out of the NW, perhaps due to the configuration of the terrain. Prolonged 50 mph gusts were occasionally separated by brief moments of relative calm. As line after line of showers swept over Mount Walter, rain, snow pellets, and tiny hail pelted Lupe. SPHP’s hands started to freeze, forcing a search of the pack for gloves.

Several cloud to ground lightning strikes crackled only a few miles N. No view of what was happening to the S, but thunder boomed from that direction, as well. Despite the fierce wind, the showers seemed to move slowly. At last, a patch of blue sky appeared far to the W.

Waiting the storm out. **Peak 12012** (L), **Peak 13045** (R). Photo looks NW.

The patch of blue sky grew slowly, at first spreading only toward the N. However, the rain abated and the wind even began to taper off slightly. Lupe waited until the last of the thunder was well to the E.

OK, Loop. You’re cutting off my circulation – my leg’s going numb. We’ve been here a whole hour. Time to get moving again!

6-27-23, 4:19 PM, 40ºF – The next bump along the ridgeline wasn’t the true summit of Mount Walter (13,133 ft.), but it wasn’t much farther. Arriving in a 40 mph gale, Lupe found a metal plaque commemorating H. D. Walter atop a pole sticking out of a pile of rocks.

**Mount Walter summit**. **Wheeler Peak** (L). Photo looks SW.

With the wind as annoying as it was, Lupe lingered on Mount Walter only 5 or 10 minutes before pressing on to her final objective.

Closing in on **Wheeler Peak** (Center), the **New Mexico state high point**! Photo looks SSW.

6-27-23, 4:38 PM, 45ºF, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) – Unfortunately, the wild W wind wasn’t about to cut Lupe any slack just because she’d made it to the top of New Mexico. Even so, the relentless 40 – 50+ mph breeze did reward her with what may have been a rare moment of privacy here on a late June afternoon. Not a soul was around.

The summit featured a rock wall serving as a completely inadequate windbreak astride the natural high point. A battered directional survey marker was attached to one of the highest rocks comprising the wall.

Wheeler Peak also possessed a much more unusual landmark in the form of a capped, heavy metal horizontal pipe jutting out of a pyramid of rocks cemented together. This pyramid bore a metal plaque in honor of Major George Montague Wheeler, and sat on a tilting concrete base.

On **Wheeler Peak**, **New Mexico’s highest mountain**! Photo looks SW.

**Major George Montague Wheeler commemorative plaque**.

Next to the **directional survey marker** (R). **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Wheeler Peak directional survey marker**.

Attempting to turn the cap fastened by a chain to the heavy metal pipe protruding from the pyramid, SPHP was surprised at how easily it came off. Signing Lupe’s name in the registry notebook hidden within was a challenge in the wind, but SPHP made sure her ascent was noted.

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve officially made it to Wheeler Peak, the New Mexico state high point.

Thank you, SPHP! Wish my 6th state high point wasn’t so windy, though.

You and me both, Looper. Under the circumstances, we aren’t going to hang around up here for a whole hour. Let’s get some photos.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then the photo session began.

Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) and Touch-Me-Not Mountain (12,044 ft.) beyond a broad valley were the big highlights miles to the NE.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Touch-Me-Not Mountain** (R). Photo looks ENE.

On a better day, Simpson Peak (12,976 ft.) looked easily attainable only 0.5 mile S. Continuing SE to Old Mike Peak (13,113 ft.) from Simpson appeared to be just a romp. Red Dome (12,681 ft.) would have added another mile farther E.

**Red Dome** (L edge), **Old Mike Peak** (Center), **Simpson Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

Gazing NNW down the Taos Ski Valley, the Williams Lake trailhead was in sight below the ski runs coming down off Peak 12012. Farther down the valley, part of the Taos Ski Village close to where Lupe had set out from was visible. However, the wind was so ferocious along the W edge that SPHP didn’t even try to get a glimpse of whether or not Williams Lake could be seen from Wheeler Peak.

**Peak 12012** (L), **Williams Lake trailhead** (Center), **Taos Ski Village** below it, **Gold Hill** (R), **Frazer Mountain** (far R) at the lower end of the ridge. Photo looks NNW.

The most magnificent views of all, though, were toward the SW where Pueblo Peak (12,305 ft.) and the top of Vallecito Mountain (12,643 ft.) jutted up beyond the ridge between Peak 12819 and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) beneath a stormy sky.

**Peak 12819** (far L), **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the relentless gale out of the W and still questionable outlook, 15 minutes into Lupe’s stay she spotted someone rapidly approaching from Mount Walter. She soon met Casey, only the 3rd person she’d seen all day. Casey was friendly, but hung around 10 minutes tops, declining to even sign the registry before heading back N.

6-27-23, 5:10 PM – Casey was gone. Once again, Lupe had Wheeler Peak to just herself, SPHP, and the wild W wind, which hadn’t shown the least sign of letting up.

Been here half an hour, Loopster. Maybe Casey’s right? Ready to head down and get out of this gale?

Hate to leave before my traditional summit hour is over, SPHP. Especially on only my 6th state high point!

Feel the same way, Looper, but its kind of hard to enjoy it. Won’t the next half hour just be an ordeal to endure for no real reason, if we stay? We’re lucky to have made it here at all. If the storm had lasted longer, or been more severe, we would never have made it.

I suppose that makes sense, SPHP. Count our blessings, and go! Certainly had a memorable experience, and after all, Wheeler Peak’s been a success!

Precisely, sweet puppy!

The sky was a little brighter, the W wind as rambunctious as ever, as the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the rock wall built over the natural true summit.

Final moments atop **Wheeler Peak**. Photo looks SW.

Between Mount Walter and Wheeler Peak, Lupe had passed a junction with Williams Lake Trail No. 62, the shortest route back, and clearly now by far the quickest way down out of the wind. Eager to complete the big loop proposed earlier in the day, the American Dingo left Wheeler Peak ready to explore this most popular route.

Heading for **Williams Lake Trail No. 62** seen below **Peak 13045** (L of Center) and **Mount Walter** (R). Photo looks N.

Switchbacks made the descent of the steep open slope a snap. For a long way, part of Williams Lake was in view, nestled down in the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley surrounded by the glories of many of New Mexico’s highest peaks. Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation before the W wind diminished. By the time she reached the forest, not a breeze remained.

Switchbacking down **Wheeler Peak’s W slope**. **Pueblo Peak** (far L), **Lake Fork Peak** (Center) with a fragment of **Williams Lake** visible below it. Photo looks WSW.

Unidentified **unusual plant** along Williams Lake Trail No. 62. Anyone know what it is?

6-27-23, 8:29 PM, 55ºF, Taos Ski Village – Lupe hopped into the RAV4, glad to return to the comfort of her pink blanket after a long day.

I’m thinking Swiss mushroom burger! Sure you don’t want to come down to Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House with me, Loopster?

Perfectly content, and perhaps prescient, the American Dingo declined. SPHP was back soon enough.

Closed, weren’t they, SPHP?

Yup! 7:00 PM, and they roll up the sidewalk. I was a couple of hours late.

6-28-23, 2:30 AM, Taos Ski Village – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

What’s going on, SPHP? It’s the middle of the night!

Can’t sleep! Woke up feeling good and alert, so we’re heading out, Loop.

Heading out for where?

Home, sweet puppy! Wheeler Peak was the exciting conclusion for this Dingo Vacation. Must be 700 miles, or thereabouts, back to the Black Hills. May as well get an early start.

6-28-23, 3:39 PM, 63ºF – For 100 miles, an enormous thunderhead had been visible hanging over the Black Hills. Braving a cloudburst, Lupe sprang out of the RAV4 to dash into the house. Her 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico had been a blast! All over and done with now, but the Carolina Dog’s Summer of 2023 adventures were far from over.

Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea were due tomorrow afternoon, bringing new Cousin Dixie with them! And, of course, preparations would soon begin for Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

On **Wheeler Peak**, Sangre de Cristo Range, the **New Mexico state high point** (6-27-23)

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track (Partial)

Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico (6-25-23)

Days 18 & 19 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-24-23, 6:06 AM, 35ºF – start of USFS Road No. 877, W of Lake City – Bleary-eyed, Lupe stared at SPHP in disbelief.

Up already? Why?

Oh, I don’t know, Loop. Woke up feeling surprisingly good, except for my smashed R pinky toe that the rock fell on yesterday. Even it’s doing better than it was. Thought I’d straighten out the RAV4 a bit before we head out.

Where to next, SPHP? We aren’t climbing any mountains today, are we?

Not exactly sure yet, Loop, except for S. We’re done in Colorado for this Dingo Vacation, so we’ll be heading into northern New Mexico. Haven’t decided which peak we’ll be going for yet, though.

Can you make it an easier one, SPHP? Maybe something without any frigid, frightening fords this time?

I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.

SE of Lake City, Hwy 149 climbed through spectacular scenery clear up to Slumgullion Pass (11,361 ft.) before going over less dramatic Spring Creek Pass (10,898 ft.), and dropping down into the Rio Grande River valley. This was all incredibly beautiful territory, but by the time Lupe arrived in Del Norte, she was out in the flats again. A short romp in North Park led to a view of the big river, which was full to the point of overflowing – not surprising at all, given the incredible amount of snow Lupe had seen in the San Juans.

**Rio Grande River** from North Park in Del Norte. Photo looks NW.

From Del Norte, it wasn’t far to Monte Vista, a town that had become a Lupe favorite, and where she spent the rest of the morning and half of the afternoon squirrel watching, or dozing on her pink blanket in the RAV4 in the shade of the big cottonwoods out in front of the high school. SPHP dined on cherry turnovers and orange juice while working on the trip journal and pondering the Carolina Dog’s next move.

The afternoon temperature soared into the 80’s ºF. Time to head out and turn on the AC! Another scenic drive, this time into New Mexico, and by early evening the RAV4 was parked along USFS Road No. 124 a few miles WSW of Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.).

Evening in **New Mexico** along **USFS Road No. 124**. Photo looks SSW.

6-25-23, 9:00 AM, 55ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – Got chilly last night! With an easy day expected, SPHP remained snuggled under the blankets until the sun hit the treetops before heating up a can of chili. Served Taste of the Wild with chili poured over the top, at first the American Dingo wouldn’t touch it. When she did, the combo was a big hit.

Oh, that hit the spot, SPHP!

Glad you liked it, Looper. Warming up fast, so we might as well get going.

No frigid fords this time, SPHP?

Nope, and not a cloud in the sky. You might be wishing for one by the time this is over and done with.

Canjilon Mountain was a road hike. The trek began with a 0.5 mile stint on USFS Road No. 124, following it SE going gradually uphill to a junction with No. 274B.

About to set out along **No. 124** for **Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

At the junction with **USFS Road No. 274B** (L). **No. 124** (R). Photo looks SE.

Making the L turn onto No. 274B, it immediately led to a clearing full of tall, brilliantly green plants with big leaves and wild irises.

Entering the **first clearing near the start of USFS Road No. 274B**. Photo looks N.

Amid the big green plants and wild irises. Photo looks NE.

Wow! Can’t believe how lush it is here in New Mexico, SPHP. Colorado wasn’t this green!

Early summer is probably a good time of year to be here, Looper. Plus we’re a few thousand feet lower here than we were in Colorado, so the plants have had more of a chance to grow.

No. 274B left the clearing heading NE, before eventually turning E. Lupe appreciated the shade of the trees as the road continued a gradual climb through open forest. However, although pleasant, most of the territory the Carolina Dog was traveling through wasn’t nearly as lush as that first clearing.

Winding through the open forest. Photo looks NE.

A lovely stretch of tall aspens. Photo looks S.

Ambling along in no particular rush, partly due to SPHP’s sore toe, every now and then a cow could be heard mooing in the forest. Glancing back, a black cow was bringing up the rear, right on the road. Seeing that this cow was a loner emboldened the American Dingo. Turning the tables, Lupe dashed off in pursuit of the cow, which soon ran past SPHP.

For pity sake, SPHP! Don’t you know anything about hunting? That was dinner! You were supposed to head that cow off at the pass. We could have had T-bone steaks!

Sorry, Loop. Didn’t think this was a pass. Besides, I bet there’s a rancher who wouldn’t take too kindly to us eating his steaks. If you see any more cows, leave ’em alone!

The cow was now somewhere up ahead. Lupe soon heard it mooing again. By the time she saw it over on a hillside, the cow had found a friend. Both cows still seemed to be looking for the rest of the herd.

This time, the Carolina Dog behaved. The road trek continued without further incident. More clearings appeared. From the first big one, Lupe got her first unobstructed view of distant forested ridges to the W.

Although forest was always nearby, the road increasingly went through sunny meadows. During forested stretches, or whenever a tree was next to the road, Lupe often wanted to relax in the shade and have a drink of water. Overall progress remained excellent, and a high ridge eventually came into view. Mostly forested, a long stretch along the top was bare.

Following USFS Road No. 274B through a meadow. Photo looks E.

Approaching the high ridge. Photo looks NE.

That ridge must be the top of Canjilon Mountain, Loop.

Already? Looks easy, SPHP. We’ve got this one made, if that’s really it!

Turning N for a little way, the road entered a vast, flat meadow. The Canjilon Mountain summit ridge and entire W slope were now in sight. The lower part was mostly open, while the upper regions were forested. Angling NE over to the base of the slope, the only steep part of the entire journey was now ahead.

**Canjilon Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

At the base of the much steeper climb. Photo looks ENE.

The top of the mountain was only 400 feet higher now. No. 274B headed up the W slope as a deeply eroded rocky gash. A turn S, then back to the E, and the road reached a gentler, open slope. Abandoning No. 274B, Lupe climbed NNE past a few scattered trees.

Heading up the W slope on stoney, badly eroded No. 274B. Photo looks SE.

About to head up to the **summit** (Center) along the slope on the R. Photo looks NNE.

6-25-23, 11:56 AM, 68ºF, Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.) – The terrain leveled out as Lupe reached the bare part of the ridge, which was 800 feet long. The true summit was a fairly large flat area covered with small rocks right along the steep W edge. In all other directions, the ground sloped away only very gradually.

At the **true summit of Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The big view was off to the W, where an enormous region of lowlands extended toward distant ridges that weren’t even close to being as high as Canjilon Mountain. Higher snow-capped peaks of the San Juan Range were visible to the NW, but were so far away that they may have been in Colorado. Forested ridges of roughly equal elevation were to the S, but were also far away. Featureless from here, they lacked rugged appeal.

The big view. **Red Hill** (L of Center) in the foreground. Photo looks W.

**Distant snow-capped peaks** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Beyond a large, nearly flat meadow, forest hid any views to the N and E. However, a couple items of potential interest were in these directions. 200 feet ENE of the true summit, a battered old cabin stood alone in the meadow, surrounded by a multitude of purple or blue wildflowers with yellow centers. Another 400 feet N, some sort of a display was along the edge of the forest, as if a trailhead was over there.

Let’s check out the cabin, SPHP!

Might as well, Loopster.

Heading over to check out the cabin. Photo looks E.

The poor, old, weather-beaten cabin was tiny, and in a sad state. Lupe sniffed around the outside, finding little of interest, then went in. Other than names and graffiti carved into the walls, pieces of plywood and broken glass, the cabin’s only room was empty.

The weather-beaten exterior. Photo looks E.

At the front door. Actually, Lupe’s standing on it. Photo looks NW.

Too much broken glass to stick around. Photo looks E.

Definitely seen better days, Looper.

Actually, I’m sort of surprised, SPHP. Doesn’t look like the roof leaks.

Yeah, you’re right, Loop. If I had a broom and dustpan to sweep up the broken glass, this cabin might still make a decent temporary shelter.

Well, we won’t need one today, SPHP. Not much more to see here, is there? Maybe there’s something interesting over at the trailhead?

USFS Road No. 274B, which went right over the mountain, disappeared into the forest right next to the display.

Hmm. This display doesn’t actually have anything to do with any trails, Loopster.

Not terribly surprising, SPHP. Few trails start at the tops of mountains. So, what is it about?

Says Carson National Forest at the top, and below that shows 3 old photos and a historic note that is itself weathering away. Can’t make all of it out, but here’s what it says, Loop:

“This restored cabin is the oldest surviving fire lookout structure in the SW. The cabin and now dismantled fire tower were built around 1910. Being the highest point around (10,913 feet) and very open, lightning strikes frequently up here. In the summer of 1922 Victor Ortega and his family lived in the tiny cabin while he watched for forest fires from the tower. One afternoon, lightning struck the cabin and the tower, killing Victor on the second strike. The tower …. illegible … abandoned and dismantled.”

Oh, that’s very sad, SPHP! What happened to Victor’s family in the cabin? Were they OK?

Don’t know. That’s all it says, Loopster. There’s a picture of Victor Ortega, and a couple of the fire tower. One shows the cabin in much better shape, but with the tower either under construction, or already damaged by the lightning strike.

After that sad tale, it was time to take a break. Heading over to the steep W edge, Lupe then went N looking for a shady spot open enough to still have a view.

N of the cabin looking for a shady spot with a view. Photo looks S.

Oddly enough, the American Dingo quickly found a spot that seemed ideal. Not only did it have a view to the SW, but a small snowbank was conveniently nearby where Lupe could cool off and eat some snow.

The view from the break spot along the W edge. Photo looks SW.

Enjoying the little snowbank melting in the forest. Photo looks SSE.

Those features weren’t what was odd about this spot, though. What was unusual was the ancient wooden cross sticking out from a loose pile of stones. Held together by rusty wire, the cross had half fallen over.

By the **ancient cross** (L). Photo looks NNE.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Do you suppose they buried Victor Ortega right here?

Who knows, Loopster? Someone or something is probably buried here. Can’t rule it out. Victor may be just a few feet below us.

Lupe stayed quite a while near Victor’s grave, if that’s what it was. SPHP ate a pear fruit cup while pondering the view Victor must have seen hundreds of times. The Carolina Dog wanted only water and a chance to doze in the shade.

The summer of 1922, that was 101 years ago. Victor and his family had been alive and well on Canjilon Mountain until that fateful lightning storm had blown in. Now Lupe was here on a beautiful day Victor never even dreamed of, a day more than a century into the future, beyond the reach of any individual human’s aspirations.

That stormy day so long ago had been just as real as this one. Now all that remained of Victor and the world he knew were a few old photos, a brief history that time was in the process of erasing, and maybe this pile of stones and forlorn old cross.

Before leaving Canjilon Mountain, Lupe returned to the tiny cabin where Victor and his family once lived. Even if in perfect condition, it seemed impossibly small, remote, and simple for a family residence.

Heading back to Victor’s cabin. Photo looks S.

60 feet straight out from the front door, Lupe found an arrow survey marker that pointed toward the true summit.

The **“Jilon” directional survey marker**.

About the time she found it, a distant roar was heard.

Something’s coming, SPHP!

Nope. Not some terrible thunderstorm. A dune buggy came roaring up USFS Road No. 274B from the S like some giant mechanical insect. The buggy stopped briefly at the true summit, before roaring away again and disappearing into the forest as it sped by the historical display.

Getting to be time to go. Alive and well, 101 years after Victor Ortega’s last summer on Canjilon Mountain, Lupe paid her respects, sitting for a few minutes among the wildflowers near the true summit about where the old fire tower had once stood.

6-25-23, 1:22 PM – Returning to the true summit, the wind, which had been light when Lupe had first arrived, was now 20 mph out of the W. Looking down the W slope, USFS Road No. 274B was in sight in the flat meadows below. The road didn’t go to it, but a much lower forested hill was in sight, too, less than 2 miles away.

Want to tag Red Hill (10,160 ft.) on the way back, Loop? Chance to do some exploring, and ought to be a snap.

**Red Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

The American Dingo was all for it. Heading back down the S slope, Lupe picked up No. 274B again, following it down the W slope to the big flat meadow. There she left the road, continuing WNW toward Red Hill.

Leaving **Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks S.

On the way to **Red Hill** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

The trek to Red Hill was a pleasant, downhill march, mostly through open fields. Hot in her fur coat beneath the New Mexico sun, Lupe wanted to pause in the shade of a grove of tall aspen trees.

With many hours of daylight remaining there was no reason not to stop, and let her enjoy the afternoon. Resting in the shade of a big aspen with a crooked trunk, Lupe actually snoozed for a while under some little evergreens.

Enjoying half an hour at the aspen oasis. Photo looks WNW.

Closing in on Red Hill, Lupe was still in the meadows when she came upon a spot near a barbed wire fence where some totally clueless people had once had a picnic, leaving a huge mess behind. SPHP had already started collecting Lupe treasures along USFS Road No. 274B on the way to Canjilon Peak. By the time SPHP finished cleaning up this mess, 2 more plastic grocery bags were full.

Following the fence, which had completely fallen over in some places, Lupe eventually had to duck under it to continue the journey to Red Hill, now only 0.25 mile away.

The American Dingo never got there. Beyond the fence stood a forest so dense and full of deadfall, that SPHP quickly had a change of heart.

The **dense, deadfall-strewn forest leading to Red Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

Eh. Red Hill’s hardly worth it, Loopster. Saw from Canjilon Mountain that the whole hill is forested, so even if we reach the top, we won’t see a thing.

Then why did you even suggest it, SPHP?

Thought it would be easy to tag the high point, Loop. Would have been, too, if not for all this deadfall.

Lupe didn’t care. Battling deadfall wasn’t the Carolina Dog’s favorite thing, either. Besides, she’d already made it to Canjilon Mountain, her main objective. Slipping back under the fence, then wandering roughly SSW, it was farther back to USFS Road No. 274B than SPHP expected. However, Lupe had a blast exploring the meadows and more open forests along the way.

An old cow path eventually led to a salt lick from which No. 274B was visible 100 feet away. During the rest of the road hike return, SPHP kept gathering Lupe treasures until it wasn’t possible to carry any more.

6-25-23, 3:53 PM, 77ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – The RAV4 was an oven when Lupe got back. Even so, she leapt up onto her pink blanket as soon as SPHP opened the door, then laid there panting in 110ºF heat.

Are you nuts? Get out of there, Loop! You’ll cook!

Opening all the windows, a breeze quickly blew the hot air out, but with everything inside still blistering hot to the touch, SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe back in until the sun got lower and the evening cooled off. Happily, the only thing that cooked was another can of chili for dinner.

Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.), with its unexpected sad tale of events 101 years ago, had been a much easier, more relaxing day than Lupe’s most recent prior adventures, and a welcome, needed break. Perhaps a somewhat wistful one, too.

Remembering **Victor Ortega** on Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico 6-25-23

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Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Lupe treasures gathered: 24 aluminum cans, 12 plastic bottles, 3 glass bottles, miscellaneous.