Naya Nuki Peak & Sacagawea Peak, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-21-17)

Day 14 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Shortly before 6:00 AM, Lupe spotted Jobe’s silver Rubicon coming up Fairy Lake Road.  Mr. Wymore was right on time, as usual.  Loop and SPHP hitched a ride with Jobe the remaining two miles to the trailhead near the Fairy Lake campground.

It was the first time the Carolina Dog had ever been in Jobe’s Rubicon.  As expected after yesterday’s adventure at Mount Powell (10,168 ft.), the Grateful Dead were playing on the stereo.

Loop next to Jobe’s silver Rubicon at the Fairy Lake campground trailhead.

Lupe caught only a glimpse of Fairy Lake before leaving the trailhead.  The trail to Sacagawea Peak (9,650 ft.) started out winding up through forest in a generally SW direction.  Loop gained elevation steadily, and was soon above most of the trees.  A red sun had just cleared mountains on the E horizon.

A red sun had just cleared mountains to the E when Lupe got above treeline not far from the start of the trail up Mount Sacagawea.

The trail was good and well-traveled.  It continued SW up into a large U-shaped valley where only scattered stands of trees grew.  The rocky slopes surrounding the valley glowed in the early morning sunlight.

Rock formations of the lower N slopes of Sacagawea Peak glow beautifully in early morning sunlight. Photo looks S.
Approaching the large U-shaped valley. Photo looks SW.
Jobe & Lupe enter the U-shaped valley. The trail to Sacagawea Peak passes through the length of this valley, ultimately switchbacking up the slope at the far end to the saddle above. Photo looks SW.

Jobe was in fine form again today, regaling SPHP with tales of peakbagging adventures, and the incredible exploits and habits of some of the mountaineers he had become acquainted with over the years.

Time flew by.  The saddle at the end of the U-shaped valley was only a mile from the trailhead as the crow flies, perhaps 1.5 miles as the trail went.  The day seemed like it had hardly even begun, when Lupe started switchbacking her way up the slope below the saddle.

Jobe pauses partway up the steep slope below the saddle to scan the terrain above. Meanwhile, Lupe roams around blending in pretty well with the mountainside. She’s visible just above Jobe’s hiking poles. Photo looks WNW.

A cool W breeze was blowing up at the saddle when Lupe, Jobe & SPHP arrived.  Trails went in several directions from here.  Sacagawea Peak was in view less than 0.5 mile to the SE.  A trail led up the mountain’s NW ridge.

From the saddle, Sacagawea Peak (L) is visible less than 0.5 mile away. Lupe poses by the trail up the NW ridge, while Jobe puts on a windbreaker. Photo looks SE.

The trail up Sacagawea Peak’s NW ridge was great.  Lupe gained elevation rapidly.  A couple hundred feet below Sacagawea’s summit she came to an unexpected intersection.  A fainter, but still easily discernible trail continued SE across the rocky upper SW slopes of a long ridge, destined for a high point at the far end.

That high point, a little less than 0.5 mile away, was Naya Nuki Peak (9,581 ft.).  Naya Nuki didn’t look hard to get to at all.  The trail to it was fairly level, neither gaining nor losing significant elevation on the way.  Jobe wondered if Lupe would like to go to Naya Nuki first before hitting Sacagawea?

Sure, why not?  It looked easy.

Temporary change of plans. Instead of climbing Sacagawea Peak, Jobe & Lupe head for Naya Nuki Peak (Center). Photo looks SE.

Getting to Naya Nuki was easy, too!  Twenty minutes later, Lupe, Jobe and SPHP were at the summit.  Again today, the air was hazy with smoke from forest fires out W.  Little could be seen toward far horizons, but views closer by of the Bridger Range were only partially impaired and still grand.

Success! Lupe reaches the summit of Naya Nuki Peak in the Bridger Range. Jobe is off by the summit cairn. Photo looks NNW.
Sacagawea Peak (L) from Naya Nuki Peak. Photo looks NNW.
Looking S along the spine of the Bridger Range. Ross Peak (9,004 ft.) is in sunshine on the R.
Lupe astride Naya Nuki Peak’s summit cairn. Sacagawea Peak is on the L. Photo looks NNW.
Yes, I made it. It was pretty easy, too!
Jobe’s turn at the S end of Naya Nuki‘s summit ridge. Ross Peak (Center) in sunshine. Photo looks S.

After 15 minutes enjoying the views up on Naya Nuki Peak, it was time to head back to tag Sacagawea Peak, which after all was still the day’s primary objective.

Jobe starts back toward Sacagawea Peak (L), while Lupe returns to urge SPHP onward. Photo looks NNW.

Half an hour after leaving Naya Nuki, everyone was at the summit of Sacagawea Peak (9,650 ft.).  Jobe and SPHP signed the summit registry.  SPHP made sure Lupe’s name was on it, too.

Lupe and Jobe at the summit of Sacagawea Peak. Photo looks NNW.
A closer look at Loop & Jobe on Sacagawea’s summit. Sacagawea Peak has 2 main peakbagging claims to fame. It has 3,930 ft. of prominence, and is the highest point in Montana’s Bridger Range. The mountain is named after Sacagawea, the Shoshone woman who served as an interpreter for the Lewis & Clark Expedition in the early 1800’s.

With 3,930 feet of prominence, the views from Sacagawea Peak were tremendous, despite being partially impaired by the hazy conditions.

Naya Nuki Peak, where Lupe, Jobe & SPHP had just come from is on the L. Ross Peak is farther away on the R. Photo looks SE.
Ross Peak (9,004 ft.) (R) from Sacagawea Peak. Photo looks SSE.
Looking S. Ross Peak on the L.
Looking down Sacagawea Peak‘s rough NE ridge. Fairy Lake is hidden from view in the valley beyond this ridge. High Point 8650 is at far L on the more distant forested ridge. Photo looks NE.

Views of the mountains to the N, formed of layers of rock uplifted to very steeply inclined positions, were particularly impressive.  Some of the exposed bands were quite colorful.  Differences in color and how the rock had eroded away produced a near vertically striped effect.

View to the NW along the spine of the Bridger Range from Sacagawea Peak.
The summit of Pomp Peak (9,562 ft.) is the rounded high point slightly L of Center just past the eroded rock bands.  When Sacagawea gave birth to a son, members of the Lewis & Clark expedition gave him the nickname “Little Pomp” or “Pompy”. The peak beyond Pomp Peak with the large snowbank on it is Hardscrabble Peak (9,575 ft.). Photo looks NW.
Pomp Peak (Center) with Hardscrabble Peak the next one beyond it slightly to the R. The saddle to Pomp Peak is seen below on the L. This is the same saddle Lupe had climbed up to on the way up from the trailhead near Fairy Lake. Photo looks NW.

Although Lupe, Jobe and SPHP remained only 15 minutes or so up on Sacagawea Peak, the Carolina Dog tried to sneak in a quick Dingo nap.  Unfortunately, the summit offered little in the way of amenities.

Loop tries to sneak in a quick Dingo nap, but Sacagawea’s summit wasn’t particularly comfortable. Naya Nuki Peak (9,581 ft.) (Center) is in the background. Photo looks SE.

Less than 3 hours had gone by since Lupe had left the trailhead when she, Jobe and SPHP left Sacagawea Peak’s summit and started down.

Jobe & Lupe in the lead on the way down. Naya Nuki Peak is on the L. Photo looks SSE.
Looking S down Dry Canyon. Ross Peak on the L.

Jobe had asked SPHP earlier if Lupe would like to climb Pomp Peak (9,562 ft.) and possibly Hardscrabble Peak (9,575 ft.)?  Jobe didn’t intend to climb either of them, but was willing to wait for Lupe at the saddle, if she and SPHP wanted to do more.  Naya Nuki and Sacagawea hadn’t taken all that long.  Since Loop had gotten off to such an early start this morning, there was still plenty of time left in the day.

SPHP had seriously considered Jobe’s generous offer, but concluded Lupe really shouldn’t accept for several reasons.  First of all, Loop and SPHP were now tagging along with Jobe on a trip he had planned.  It really wasn’t right to make him wait.  Secondly, a trail that could be seen going up Pomp Peak from the saddle appeared to vanish high up on a steep slope above cliffs.  Maybe Pomp Peak was more dangerous terrain than Loop and SPHP were used to?

Both of those considerations were important, but the third and final reason was the real clincher.  The original purpose in joining Jobe on this Dingo Vacation had been to climb as far up Crazy Peak (11,209 ft.) with him as possible.  Crazy Peak was on a ton of peakbagging lists, and one of only two peaks remaining on the EPIC list which Jobe hadn’t climbed yet.  Looper wanted to be there, at the summit if at all possible, to congratulate Jobe when he got it.

Crazy Peak was not a trivial climb, however.  The completely off-trail route Jobe intended to take up the SE ridge would be 5 or 6 miles long, involve 4,300 feet of elevation gain, and might well border on the edge of what Lupe and SPHP were capable of doing.  And the attempt on Crazy Peak was tomorrow!

So in the end, SPHP declined Jobe’s kind offer on Lupe’s behalf.  It was simply more important to be as rested as possible for Crazy Peak than to tag Pomp or Hardscrabble.  Once at the saddle, instead of continuing on to tackle Pomp Peak, the American Dingo took the trail down into the U-shaped valley leading back to the trailhead.

Jobe on the way back down to the saddle. Pomp Peak is in the background. SPHP turned down Jobe’s kind offer to wait for Lupe while she climbed Pomp Peak. It was more important to rest up for Crazy Peak tomorrow!
The U-shaped valley N of Sacagawea Peak from the saddle. Photo looks NE.

Jobe gave Lupe and SPHP another ride in his Rubicon back to the G6.  Much later in the day, he rendezvoused with the Carolina Dog again at the Big Timber picnic ground E of Crazy Peak.  Lupe spent the evening relaxing and listening in, while Jobe and SPHP chatted until dusk.  What she thought of the wide variety of fascinating tales Jobe related, she never really said.

Related Links:

To the Wildcat Hills of Nebraska with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (4-2-16)

Mount Powell, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-20-17)

Crazy Peak, Montana – On the Verge of EPIC with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-22-17)

Notes:

On the way down the U-shaped valley on the way back to the trailhead, Lupe passed by a wedding party on its way up to Sacagawea Peak for the happy occasion.  Not all events on the mountain have been so cheerful.

On 8-15-15, friends and family of prolific peakbagger Edward Earl climbed Sacagawea Peak to scatter some of his ashes.  Edward had passed away on 6-19-15 trying to cross the Jago River following an unsuccessful attempt on Mount Isto (8,976 ft.) in the Brooks Range in remote NE Alaska.  Only a little over 3 years before, Edward had climbed the mountain to scatter his mother’s ashes.

Lupe has succeeded in reaching the summits of a number of peaks aided by excellent detailed directions contained in trip reports written by Edward Earl, but sadly never got to meet him.

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Mount Powell, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-20-17)

Days 10 – 13 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Day 10, 7-17-17  For the first time on this Dingo Vacation, the night sky was clear.  Lupe wanted out.  She sniffed around invisibly in darkness.  Overhead, the Milky Way gleamed in the heavens amidst diamond bright constellations.  The Carolina Dog was still tired, though.  She quickly returned to resume her snooze.

Morning arrived.  Time to leave the magnificent Wind River range.  Lupe and SPHP went down to lower Green River Lake.  The American Dingo gazed once more upon Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.), the massive NW sentinel of the Winds, looming silently beyond the clear, still lake.

Squaretop Mountain (R of Center), massive sentinel of the NW Wind River Range, beckons beyond lower Green River Lake. Lupe’s 3 day journey to climb Squaretop had been a failure, though a terrific adventure. Photo looks SE.

Lupe’s attempt to climb Squaretop had ended in failure, though she did look down on its summit from New Benchmark (11,850 ft.), the high point of her 3 day journey.  Though ultimately unsuccessful, the effort to reach Squaretop from Porcupine Pass had been a beautiful and challenging adventure.

White Rock (11,284 ft.) (L) and Squaretop Mountain (R) beyond lower Green River Lake with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SE.

Today would be the first of several travel and rest days.  After stopping in Pinedale for supplies, Lupe and SPHP headed NW on Hwy 191 past Bondurant and Hoback Junction.  The S approach to Jackson was teeming with tourists and activity.  The mob scene at the heart of it all was avoided by turning W on Hwy 22, which took Lupe over Teton Pass (8,429 ft.).

Lupe crossed the border into Idaho for the first time in nearly 5 years.  W of the Teton Range, Lupe and SPHP were in unfamiliar territory.  Dark clouds hung over the Tetons.  N of Driggs, Lupe experienced 20 miles of cloudburst, as SPHP drove N on Hwy 33.  Beyond the thunderstorm, it was sunny again.

Lupe in Idaho for the first time in nearly 5 years taking a short break from the G6 W of the Tetons. This was unfamiliar territory. Photo looks SE.

SPHP drove all day.  Lupe saw beautiful scenery she’d never seen before.  She barked at cows and horses.  She lapped up chocolate milk.  After several hours in Idaho, she left it again crossing into Montana on Hwy 87.  By day’s end, Lupe was a mile S of Silver Star at a pullout along Hwy 41 overlooking the Jefferson River.

Looking NE from a high point along Hwy 287 W of Ennis, MT.
Looking S up the Jefferson River near day’s end.
The Jefferson River S of Silver Star, Montana. Photo looks NE.

Day 11, 7-18-17  The next morning, Lupe and SPHP headed N.  Approaching Deer Lodge on I-90, Mount Powell (10,168 ft.) came into view a dozen miles to the W.  SPHP left I-90 at Exit 195 and drove all the way to the trailhead to see if the G6 could get there.  The roads weren’t bad, although the final stretch on USFS Road No. 670 was so narrow it was a good thing no vehicles were coming the other way.  Lupe spent most of the afternoon at the trailhead, happily relaxing in the shade watching squirrels and chipmunks.

On the way to the Mount Powell (L) trailhead. Although the sky was clear, the air was a bit hazy with smoke from distant forest fires. Photo looks NW.
Mount Powell (L) seen through the smoke haze with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

Mount Powell was Lupe’s next peakbagging objective, but no attempt on the mountain was going to be made today.  Late in the afternoon, Lupe and SPHP went down to Deer Lodge where Lupe enjoyed a McDonald’s ice cream cone.  Lupe’s evening was spent watching boats, sea gulls, geese, and little fish jumping at Georgetown Lake W of Anaconda.

Sunset at Georgetown Lake W of Anaconda.
Geese on Georgetown Lake.

Day 12, 7-19-17  Three miles E of Georgetown Lake, SPHP noticed a sign for Storm Lake on the S side of Hwy 1.  Lupe had time, why not check it out?  The G6 made it nearly 8 of the 9 miles to Storm Lake on USFS Road No. 675.  Lupe and SPHP continued on paw and foot.  Clearings in the forest near the road were full of colorful wildflowers.

Lupe among the wildflowers on the last mile to Storm Lake.

Several groups of people were fishing at Storm Lake when Lupe arrived.  Across the lake Looper could see Little Rainbow Mountain (9,989 ft.), which didn’t look like it would be too hard a climb.  A trail led across a dam at the N end of the lake.  At the W end of the dam, Storm Lake Creek exited the lake.  Lupe and SPHP crossed the creek, and followed the trail S along the W side of Storm Lake.

Loop along the NW shore of Storm Lake. Mount Howe (10,472 ft.) (L) and Little Rainbow Mountain (9,989 ft.) (R) are in view. Photo looks SE.

After a long week in the Wind River range, SPHP wasn’t too ambitious.  Instead of climbing Little Rainbow Mountain with the American Dingo, SPHP opted for a swim in the lake.  Lupe was content to go wading, too.

Lupe wading near the S end of Storm Lake. Photo looks E.

The trail continued SE beyond the S end of Storm Lake.  Several hikers came along about this time.  One of them showed SPHP a map indicating that the trail would wind its way S for a mile or so to Storm Lake Pass.  Mount Tiny (9,848 ft.) was supposed to be an easy climb from there.  Still feeling lazy, Lupe and SPHP skipped Mount Tiny.  Lupe left the trail to circumnavigate Storm Lake instead.

After returning to the G6, Lupe and SPHP spent part of the afternoon at a park along Warm Springs Creek in Anaconda.  By evening, Loop was back at the Mount Powell trailhead.

Day 13, 7-20-17  After a day of travel and two days spent lazing around, the Carolina Dog woke up at 5:20 AM.  SPHP joined her outside the G6.  Today was the big day!  Lupe was going to climb Mount Powell!  SPHP had everything ready in short order, but then did nothing.  Lupe was puzzled.  What was the holdup?  She was anxious to get going.

Suddenly, those big soft Dingo ears heard a noise.  Something was coming!  A yet unseen vehicle was approaching the trailhead.  A minute later, a silver Jeep Wrangler Rubicon appeared.  Lupe ran over barking to greet it.  Much to her surprise, out of the Rubicon stepped someone she knew – mountaineer Jobe Wymore!

Lupe hadn’t seen Jobe since she’d served as his advance scout at South Dakota’s second highest mountain, Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.), back home in the Black Hills.  That had been more than 15 months ago.  On 4-2-16, Lupe had actually accompanied Jobe to Odakota, and then gone on to the Wildcat Hills of Nebraska with him that very same day.  In Nebraska, she’d climbed Wildcat Mountain (5,025 ft.) before succumbing to the prickly terrors of cacti.  Jobe had helped carry the tenderpaw Dingo out of danger back to the Bluffman’s house.

Now Jobe was coming with Lupe to Mount Powell!  She could hardly believe it!  She barked, leapt, and danced wildly around Jobe.  Of course, Jobe’s arrival was no mere coincidence – it had been prearranged.  And actually, Jobe wasn’t really coming along with Lupe and SPHP.  It was the other way around, Lupe and SPHP were tagging along on a mountain that Jobe needed to climb.

Mount Powell (10,168 ft.), the high point of Powell County in Montana, is on two massive peakbagging lists Jobe has been working on for years.  One list with 245 peaks (the short list!) contains all of the US county high points in all 48 contiguous states with at least 2,000 feet of prominence.  The other, longer list includes all 414 county high points of the western contiguous states (all the mountain states W of the prairie states).

After greetings were exchanged, Jobe, Lupe and SPHP set out on USFS Road No. 670, which was extremely rough W of the trailhead.  The road led steadily up the forested valley of the Dempsey Creek drainage.

SPHP’s prior research of possible routes up Mount Powell had shown that most climbers stay with the road at least as far as the mountain’s S ridge beyond Bohn Lake.  Some go all the way to a SW ridge in the vicinity of the Elliot Lakes.  These ridges were described in various reports as brushy, steep, cliffy, and containing boulder or scree fields.

However, climber Eric Higginbotham had explored a different route which sounded a lot easier.  The Higginbotham route left the road much sooner.  It passed through a huge alpine meadow (Marble Park on the map) early on, climbed in forest to High Point 8708, continued NW over a saddle, and eventually broke out of the forest on a broad ridge a mile SSE of the summit.

Higginbotham’s 7-19-15 Mount Powell trip report included a GPS track, an excellent description of how to find the trailhead, and a rather amusing account of his experience as well.  SPHP favored trying Higginbotham’s route.  Jobe must have, too.  Being technologically competent, he had already loaded Higginbotham’s GPS route into his smart phone.

The first thing to watch for was an open grassy slope on the NW side of the road about 0.67 mile from the trailhead.  The steep hillside soon came into view as Higginbotham had described it.  Jobe and Lupe led the way up.

Jobe & Lupe, reunited after more than 15 months, on the first open grassy hillside after leaving the road. This hillside was fairly steep. Photo looks E.

At the top of the steep hillside, Lupe re-entered the forest.  The ground leveled out to some degree as she continued up, heading W near the edge of the steep stuff.  Before too long, the terrain started pushing her N.  Loop quickly came upon the S end of Marble Park, the giant alpine meadow Higginbotham had mentioned.

Jobe & Lupe in Marble Park. Photo looks SSW.
The stroll up Marble Park was cake. The giant alpine meadow was just a nice long, steady, obstacle-free, moderate incline. Photo looks SSE.
The view ahead. Lupe & Jobe veered N (R) here gaining as much elevation as possible while still in Marble Park. Once back in the forest again, Loop & Jobe turned NW looking for High Point 8708, which isn’t in sight yet up on the forested ridge straight up from Lupe. Photo looks NW.

Marble Park was completely free of obstacles.  Jobe, Lupe and SPHP made rapid progress up the steady, moderately inclined slope.  Lupe stayed in the giant meadow as long as possible.  She didn’t re-enter the forest again until reaching Marble Park’s upper N end.  This allowed the American Dingo to completely avoid a shallow drainage to the W.

Once back in the forest, the next landmark along the way was High Point 8708, about 0.75 mile to the NW.  The forest was mostly open, the only real obstacle being scattered deadfall timber.  The climb initially steepened somewhat, but quickly became more gradual again.  Now and then, Jobe checked Lupe’s position versus Eric Higginbotham’s GPS track on his phone, but very little course correction was ever required.

When Lupe, Jobe and SPHP reached High Point 8708, the top of Mount Powell was in view 2 miles to the NW.

Jobe & Lupe reach High Point 8708. Mount Powell’s summit is now in view 2 miles to the NW.
A portion of Caruthers Lake is in view from High Point 8708. Photo looks W.

At High Point 8708, Lupe had already climbed 2,450 feet of the over 3,900 feet of elevation gain required to get to the summit of Mount Powell from the trailhead.  SPHP was amazed at how easy it had all been, and how quickly the time had gone by.  Credit for the easy route went to Eric.  Credit for making the time go by fast went to Jobe.

Lupe and SPHP really didn’t know Jobe well at all.  The only other time Lupe had been with Jobe was on that one day over 15 months ago.  Jobe had been friendly, considerate, and very kind.  He’d come to Lupe’s rescue carrying her over cactus infested badlands in Nebraska.  Jobe had also been a great conversationalist, expounding upon a variety of topics of interest to SPHP.

Shortly after leaving the trailhead this morning, Jobe had launched into a discussion of one of his favorite subjects – Jerry Garcia and the Grateful Dead.  Of course, SPHP was familiar with some of their top 40 hits, but that was about the extent of it.  Jobe, however, was an expert.  He didn’t consider the Dead’s top 40 hits even remotely among their best work.

Virtually the entire time it took to reach High Point 8708, Jobe had expounded upon the Grateful Dead.  A truly dedicated (fanatical?) fan, he listens to them almost exclusively.  Jobe knew not only all of the Dead’s songs, but how the songs had evolved and been perfected over time, at exactly which live concerts Jerry Garcia had performed the best renditions, all of the lyrics and their meanings, etc., etc.

SPHP couldn’t begin to absorb it all, but did gather that of the many Grateful Dead songs Jobe liked, he considered Morning Dew and Terrapin Station among their finest work.  Even though the subject matter was almost entirely unfamiliar to SPHP, Jobe’s enthusiastic and lively conversation had been so entertaining, it hardly seemed possible Lupe was already so close to Mount Powell.

Close she was, though.  Only a 0.75 mile long forested area, a significant portion of which was a relatively level saddle, now stood between Loop and the broad, bare S ridge leading to the final steep climb to the top of the mountain.  As Lupe left High Point 8708, and proceeded NW across the saddle, Jobe continued his time and distance warping commentary.  In no time at all, almost as if she had been teleported, the Carolina Dog broke out out of the forest and stood on the bare S ridge.

The lower part of the S ridge was a gentle incline, generously strewn with medium-sized flattish rocks, which were interspersed with small green plants and a few wildflowers.  Mount Powell was directly ahead.

In the lead, Jobe strikes out across Mount Powell’s nearly flat, barren S shoulder. The summit is straight ahead. Photo looks N.

The final ascent wasn’t any steeper than the grassy hillside Lupe had gone up right after leaving the road early on.  This slope was much rockier, but still just a walk up a hill.  Vegetation was present most of the way.  Lupe faced only a few short sections of nothing but scree.

Gettin’ there! Loopster & Jobe on the final ascent. Photo looks N.

Loopster arrived at the summit of Mount Powell (10,168 ft.) at 9:00 AM. Between Eric Higginbotham’s excellent route, and Jobe’s scintillating conversation (which by now had switched from the Grateful Dead to how life would be affected by coming technological changes), the whole trek up had taken only 3 hours.  To SPHP, it seemed like the easiest 3,900+ feet of off-trail elevation gain ever.

Success! Mountaineer Jobe Wymore and Lupe relax at the summit of Mount Powell. Photo looks S.

The summit area was roomy, flat and strewn with rocks.  Lots of rocks had been piled up to make a big circular Dingo fortress with a cairn in the middle of it.  A survey benchmark was easily found.  Not a tree or a bush grew anywhere, so the summit provided commanding 360° views.  Unfortunately, smoke from forest fires farther W made the air rather hazy.  Smoke could be seen rising from several points.

This exposed survey benchmark was easily found at the summit.
Dempsey Basin from Mount Powell shortly after reaching the summit. Unfortunately, the air was a little hazy due to smoke from forest fires farther W. More smoke is rising in the distance R of Center. Photo looks SW.
Jobe makes adjustments to a shoe while Lupe sits nearby just outside of the circular Dingo fort. Photo looks SW.

Lupe, Jobe & SPHP remained at the top of Mount Powell for a whole hour.  Jobe pointed out several peaks in the distance he had been to, or at least recognized.  As a treat, he shared chocolate brittle with Lupe and SPHP, who were both quite taken with it.  An hour was plenty of time to gaze at the grand views in all directions.  As a W breeze grew stronger, smoke began billowing up more noticeably from a fire to the SW.

Loop on the W wall of the Dingo Fort. The summit of lower Deer Lodge Mountain (9,765 ft.) is in view on the L. Photo looks ENE.
Looking down on Martin Lake. Peak 9779 is beyond the lake on the L. Photo looks W.
Looking down on Dempsey Basin. From closest to most distant, the 4 lakes on the L are Upper Elliot Lake, Lower Elliot Lake, Caruthers Lake & Goat Lake. Mountain Ben Lake is farther away on the R. The small lake nearby on the R is unnamed on the map. Smoke billows up (Center) on the far horizon. Photo looks SW.
The bald “hill” on the R is Peak 9467. The higher peaks straight beyond it in the distance are somewhere near Storm Lake, where Lupe had been yesterday. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking SW with considerable help from the telephoto lens at some of the highest peaks visible from Mount Powell. Peak 9502 is in the foreground on the R. The high mountain in the distance beyond it is Warren Peak (10,463 ft.). The highest of all is West Goat Peak (10,793 ft.) on the L.

Other than the haze, conditions on Mount Powell were near perfect with a light W breeze and temperatures in the low 70’s °F.  Nevertheless, the time to depart drew near.  Lupe took a final look around, while Jobe used his phone to enter data on this successful ascent.

Lupe takes a final look around from Mount Powell. The highest mountain beyond her is Pikes Peak (9,359 ft.). Photo looks N.
Loop on the SW wall of the Dingo Fort. Jobe uses his smart phone to enter data on this ascent into Peakbagger.com. Photo looks NW.
Loop ready to head down. Mount Powell’s bare S slope is seen below on the R. High Point 8708 is on the forested ridge beyond Loop on the L. This had been her ascent route, and the American Dingo would be going back this way, too. Photo looks SSE.

Eric Higginbotham’s route up had worked great!  There was no reason to stray from it on the way back to the trailhead.  Jobe helped the time go by with stories of the exploits of other mountaineers he knew, and adventures he’d had with some of them.  He discussed some of the major peakbagging goals he has been working on for many years, how he was within a few years of completing them, and what he might want to do when they were finished.

Lupe back on the broad, barren S ridge, with Deer Lodge Peak visible beyond her. Jobe’s on the phone checking on a friend who was late to report in from another mountain. Photo looks NE.
Almost down! Lupe back at Marble Park. Photo looks NW.

By the time Lupe was back at the trailhead (12:40 PM), she knew about an odd medical condition affecting Jobe’s hair, and the sad passing away of his favorite cat, known simply as “H”, in January.  Only partly in jest, Jobe had pronounced himself a 3 dimensional person due to his 3 main interests in life – peakbagging, the Grateful Dead, and craft beers.

Climbing Mount Powell with Jobe had been super fun!  The best news of all was that Loop’s time with Jobe wasn’t over yet.  Tomorrow, Lupe would get to climb another peak with him!  The original plan had been to go to Old Baldy South Slope (8,640 ft.).  However, that plan had changed.  Sacagawea Peak (9,650 ft.), with nearly 4,000 feet of prominence was up next!

Once details for the next rendezvous had been settled upon, Jobe roared off in his Rubicon.  A short while later, Lupe and SPHP headed out, too.  When Lupe reached I-90, temperatures were in the 90’s °F.  So much smoke was in the air now that Mount Powell was barely visible.  SPHP stopped to buy a box of ice cream bars in Anaconda.  A certain eager Carolina Dog provided dedicated assistance in devouring all 6 on the spot.

An air-conditioned ride E to Bozeman ensued, where SPHP obtained a roasted chicken for dinner.  Taking Hwy 86 N out of Bozeman, SPHP eventually found the road to Fairy Lake.  The poor G6 took considerable abuse on USFS Road No. 74, making it 3/4 of the way to Fairy Lake before SPHP had mercy and parked at a big pullout.  By nightfall, an American Dingo stuffed full of roasted chicken was ready for Dingo dreamland.

Mountaineer and friend Jobe Wymore relaxes on Mount Powell, Montana 7-20-17

Related Links:

To the Wildcat Hills of Nebraska with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (4-2-16)

Naya Nuki Peak & Sacagawea Peak, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-21-17)

Crazy Peak, Montana – On the Verge of EPIC with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-22-17)

Morning Dew, The Grateful Dead (7-19-89)

Eric Higginbotham’s trip report on Mount Powell (7-19-15)

48 States County High Points with 2,000+ feet of Prominence

Western Contiguous USA County High Points

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 3: The Dome Peak Salvage Operation (7-16-17)

Day 9 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Lightning!  Oh, boy.  Nothing like getting drenched in the middle of the night.  Unable to sleep, SPHP used a small flashlight to study maps.  Meanwhile, the American Dingo, tired from yesterday’s fun and games on New Benchmark, and stuffed full of her entire food supply which she had devoured upon returning to Porcupine Pass, snoozed peacefully in the “tiny house” on her red sleeping bag.

Thunder rumbled for a couple of hours, but thankfully only a little rain fell.  At least that was a bit of luck.  The maps didn’t have any good news, though.  Lupe had made it to New Benchmark (11,850 ft.) yesterday, only to have her route E to Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.) blocked by a huge, steep snowbank.  What had been seen of a possible alternate route E from N of Porcupine Pass, hadn’t looked promising from New Benchmark, either.

The only other alternative was to go S from Porcupine Pass down the Dodge Creek valley far enough to pick up a trail heading E to the Lozier Lakes area.  Loop could then try going N from Kenny or Marten Lakes.  She would lose more than 1,000 feet of elevation from her current position at Porcupine Pass, though, all of which would have to be regained, plus a lot more.  And it was a long, long way around.  With supplies low already, circling clear around to the S wasn’t realistic.

What that meant was failure.  Lupe simply wasn’t going to make it to her prime objective.  Sadly, Squaretop Mountain was out.  No matter how SPHP looked at it, that was the depressing news the maps contained.  May as well beat a retreat back down to Green River Lakes when dawn arrived.

Leaving!  Why are we leaving?  Just because we can’t get all the way to Squaretop Mountain doesn’t mean we have to turn tail and flee, does it, SPHP?  We have more time don’t we?  It took us a whole day to get here!  It’s a wonderful morning.  We’re already at nearly 11,000 feet.  What’s wrong with all these mountains around here?  Can’t we climb one of them instead?

All true, Looper.  If you’re up for trying something else, I guess we could.  Didn’t really bring any decent maps of anything other than the route I thought we could take to Squaretop, but some of the territory W of here looked pretty fun and not too difficult from New Benchmark yesterday.  The maps do show a Dome Peak (11,234 ft.) a few miles SSW of here.  We could salvage something from this day, and try for Dome Peak if you like.

Sure!  Why not?  Dome Peak is fine with me.  Let the salvage operations begin!  I’m raring to go!

SPHP disassembled Lupe’s tiny house and packed everything up.  The first step in the journey to Dome Peak was to head SW over Porcupine Pass Peak (10,890 ft.), which Lupe had visited yesterday morning, too.  It was a short, easy walk to the top, a nice change of pace after a couple of long, hard days.

Loop back up on Porcupine Pass Peak for the 2nd morning in a row. Porcupine Pass is below on the L. Photo looks E toward New Benchmark, which Lupe had climbed yesterday, and where she’d had to abort her journey to Squaretop Mountain due to steep snow.
Loop at the summit of Porcupine Pass Peak again. Dome Peak, her new peakbagging objective, is in the distance straight up from Looper. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

A beautiful sunny trek across Porcupine Pass Peak brought Lupe to a rounded slope that descended gradually to another pass.  This pass was unnamed on the maps, but might easily be considered Porcupine Pass SW.

Looking down on the unnamed pass SW of Porcupine Pass Peak. On the way to Dome Peak, Lupe would climb up the other side of this pass. She discovered a trail going up the far slope, which SPHP should have paid more attention to, since it would have been useful later in the day. It was the correct route to the Jim Creek Trail. Peak 11,125, the first of 3 major high points Lupe would come to on her way to Dome Peak is seen on the L. Photo looks SW.

A trail went over the unnamed pass.  A quick look at the map showed this would be a longer, but perhaps far less steep route down into the Porcupine Creek drainage than going N from Porcupine Pass when the time came to head back to Green River Lakes.  SPHP liked this idea, and decided to stash the tiny house and sleeping bags behind a big rock in the pass.

Lupe cools off on a big snowfield on the S side of the unnamed pass SW of Porcupine Pass Peak. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe continued SW on across the unnamed pass.  She climbed up the slope on the far side, which was somewhat steeper than the slope from Porcupine Pass Peak had been, but it wasn’t a problem.  SPHP was puzzled when more than halfway up the Carolina Dog discovered a trail winding up this slope.

This trail was unexpected, and SPHP paid little attention to it, assuming it was only a side trail from the main one going over the unnamed pass.  This incorrect assessment would have repercussions later in the day.  At any rate, Lupe made it up the slope on the far side of the pass, where she had a great view back toward Porcupine Pass Peak (10,890 ft.).

Looking back from the far (SW) side of the unnamed pass. Porcupine Pass Peak is the gentle green hill at Center. Peak 11,420 is on the L. Part of New Benchmark is seen along the R edge. Photo looks NE.

Lupe turned S and headed for Peak 11,125.  This was great territory!  Open and rolling in a rugged, but not difficult, sort of way.  Big snowfields and grassy slopes, scattered rocks, and a myriad of clear trickling streams.  Beneath blue skies and sunshine, Lupe ran and ran, streaking over great distances.  SPHP strode easily along.  Oh, yeah!  This was fun!

30 minutes later, Lupe arrived at the top of Peak 11,125.  The summit was a relatively small area of big rocks and bigger views.

Lupe at the top of Peak 11,125. The upper Boulder Creek drainage area is seen below. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe’s objective, Dome Peak (L), is the distant rounded high point on the horizon. Photo looks SSW.
Looking across Dodge Creek canyon from Peak 11,125. In the foreground on the other side are Peak 11,695 (far L) and Peak 11,290 (L). Between them on the horizon is Gannett Peak (L), the highest mountain in Wyoming. Photo looks E.
Gannett Peak (13,804 ft.) (far L) is on the horizon. Peak 11,290 is in the foreground. Photo looks ESE from Peak 11,125 with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe on Peak 11,125. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking NNW.
The impressive view to the S with a lot of help from the telephoto lens. Peak 11,166 is the high point L of Center. Dome Peak is the rounded high point on the R.

Dome Peak was still close to 3 miles away, so Lupe didn’t linger long at Peak 11,125.  To get down off the mountain, she circled back around to the NW until the terrain permitted her to turn SW.  She crossed a snowy basin which was part of the uppermost NE portion of the Boulder Creek drainage area.

Loop cools down in the snowy basin SW of Peak 11,125. This basin is part of Boulder Creek’s uppermost NE drainage area. The next high point Lupe headed for is seen on the L. Photo looks SW.

The next high point on Lupe’s way was immediately S of the snowy basin.  The lower slopes of this hill were also snow-covered.  SPHP found the climb easiest staying on lanes of bare ground when possible.  Meanwhile, the Carolina Dog wandered wherever she pleased.

This hill wasn’t as high as Peak 11,125.  The upper slopes were far less snowy than lower down.  Scattered stands of stunted trees grew amid a great deal of rock.  In fact, the whole hill was almost solid rock.

Lupe reaches the top of the 2nd high point on her way to Dome Peak. This hill wasn’t quite 11,000 feet. Photo looks SE.
Same view with help from the telephoto lens. Palmer Canyon is across the way on the L. Peak 10,985 is at Center, and Peak 11,166 is on the R. Photo looks SE.

From the second high point, Lupe could see the next hill ahead to the S.  It was higher than this one, and must have been nearly the same elevation as Peak 11,125.  A long, broad green slope with patches of snow to the E led toward a rocky summit.  The slope was a steady climb, but getting to the top should be a piece of cake.

Lupe lost elevation again going W down off the second high point.  She soon turned S and headed straight for the third high point.

The long green slope leading up the third high point. Lupe headed for the highest rocks seen just R of Center. Photo looks S,

Loop reached the top of the long green slope at a big rock outcropping at the NE end of a long summit ridge.  Dome Peak was in view again.  The American Dingo had been making good progress toward her objective.  She was already halfway there!

Lupe at the NE end of the 3rd high point’s long summit ridge. Dome Peak (R of Center) was in view again. Loop was already halfway there! Photo looks S.

Cliffs prevented the Carolina Dog from going any farther straight S.  It was clear the highest portions of the third high point’s long summit ridge were still off to the SW.  Lupe went W, skirting a series of large rocks a bit below and to the N of them.

Lupe had been doing great so far, but while she was working her way toward the true summit of the 3rd high point, SPHP suddenly realized there were problems ahead.

The first problem was the weather.  The sky had been almost completely clear all morning.  Now pillars of cumulus clouds could be seen boiling up off to the W.  They weren’t too big yet, but looked like trouble.

On the way to the highest part of the 3rd high point, SPHP suddenly realized there were problems ahead. The first problem was the weather. Pillars of cumulus clouds were boiling up in the W. Photo looks SW.
On the way to the top of the 3rd high point. Photo looks WSW.

The second problem was the realization that this 3rd high point still wasn’t part of the long ridge leading to Dome Peak.  That ridge was now in view to the SW.  Lupe would have to lose a couple hundred feet of elevation to get over to it.  That wasn’t a problem, and the long ridge wasn’t more than a few hundred feet high itself, but its sides were steep.  Steep with a continuous, big, long snowbank clinging to its upper slopes.

Lupe retreated a little down to the N from the 3rd high point. She would have to come down this way to get over to the ridge on the R leading to Dome Peak. That ridge wasn’t terribly high, but it was steep with a long continuous band of snow on its upper slopes. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe retreated a little down to the N from the 3rd high point.  She had to go this way to get around to the W, and head over to the ridge leading to Dome Peak.  SPHP stopped and stared at the long ridge for several minutes while Loop sat waiting patiently.

That ridge isn’t that high Loop.  It’s totally ridiculous, but I don’t see a way up it.  Not with that steep band of snow all along the upper edge.

We need to go over there?

Yeah, if you’re going to make it to Dome Peak, we need to get up on top.  It’s a really long ridge.  There’s part of it we don’t see from here farther S.  Maybe there’s a way up somewhere along the way?

Well, let’s go check it out!  I’ll help you find a way up, SPHP.

Thanks, Lupe, but hold on!  I’d say yes, but these clouds look like trouble.  They’re building fast.  Naturally, Dome Peak seems to be ground zero.  I hope you’ve had a good time on this romp, but we better call it.

What!  No Dome Peak?

Uh-uh.  It’s been fun, but I’m afraid our Dome Peak salvage operation is doomed to failure, too.  Thunderstorms will be on the way soon.  Let’s get out of here, while the getting is good.

Loop didn’t argue.  She just sighed, turned, and started trotting N back down the long green slope back toward the 2nd high point.  SPHP followed after her.

A look back at the 3rd high point and approaching weather shortly after giving up on Dome Peak and starting the retreat back N. Photo looks SW.
A look WNW down into the Boulder Creek canyon on the way down the long green slope.
Even though Lupe’s retreat had already begun, and her Dome Peak salvage operation had ended in failure, the scenery was still stunning. Gannett Peak (R) is on the horizon, along with many other huge peaks. Photo looks E on the way down the long green slope.
Heading back toward the 2nd high point, the low, almost solid rock hill at Center. Lupe wouldn’t climb it again. Instead, she went around the W (L) side. Peak 11,125, which was the first high point Lupe reached is in view on the R. Lupe didn’t climb it again either. Photo looks N.
Looking back at the long green slope to the 3rd high point (L). The long ridge Lupe never reached leading to Dome Peak is on the R. Photo looks SSW.

The American Dingo didn’t climb the 2nd high point again.  It was easier to just skip it and go around the W side.

Lupe came to this narrow tarn going around the W side of the 2nd high point on her way back N. Photo looks NNW.

Loop didn’t return to the top of Peak 11,125, either.  She stayed NW of it.  By the time she reached the snowfields N of Peak 11,125, it was clear the decision to abandon the effort to reach Dome Peak had been a good one.  The sky had grown dark.  Thunder rumbled to the S, back in the direction of Dome Peak.

By the time Lupe reached the snowfields N of Peak 11,125 again, the sky had turned dark. Thunder rumbled to the S. Photo looks W.

On the way back down into the unnamed pass SW of Porcupine Pass Peak to retrieve the tiny house and sleeping bags, Lupe came across the odd side trail once more.  Again, SPHP thought nothing of it.  Down in the pass, the weather was so threatening SPHP quickly dug the green plastic rain poncho out of the pack and put it on, before grabbing everything else and hurrying on.

Following the main trail NNW over the pass, Lupe and SPHP started the descent into the Porcupine Creek drainage area.  The trail quickly steepened, then vanished!  Light rain fell while Loop and SPHP searched for where the trail had disappeared to.  Nothing!

Lupe almost started down a large snowfield that went into a big gash in the mountainside.  The gash had high, steep sides of bare, loose soil and rocks.  The snowfield sloped ever more steeply down until it went out of sight.  It was impossible to tell how far down the snow went or how steep it became.

SPHP took another quick look at the map.  The trail Lupe wanted went quite a distance W before turning NE down into the Porcupine Creek drainage.  Hmm.  SPHP led Lupe partway back up to the pass, but only far enough to get around the upper end of the big gash.  Once W of the gash, the search for the trail resumed.

Still no trail.  The terrain quickly steepened.  Lupe was descending fast.  To the W was a large snowfield beneath a long rim of cliffs that curved NW.  Rocks and boulders stuck up out of the snow in some places.  If there was a trail here, it was almost certainly hidden beneath the snow.

W of the big gash, Lupe soon came to the edge of this snowfield beneath the line of cliffs seen curving away to the NW. If there was a trail here, it was buried beneath the snow. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe turned N descending a steep slope of bare ground along the E edge of the snowfield.  After losing some elevation, she saw a wall of rock extending W out into the snowfield, creating a partial break in it.  As Lupe and SPHP descended into a 2 foot gap between the wall of rock and the snowfield below, it started to rain harder.  The rock wall had a bit of an overhang offering partial protection from the weather.

Looking WNW from the narrow gap between the wall of rock and the snowfield below it.
Lupe takes shelter from the rain beneath a small overhang.

Standing around waiting for the storm to end, SPHP had time for reflection.  The light finally went on.  That odd side trail Lupe had found twice, the one that went up the slope on the W side of the pass, wasn’t a side trail at all!  It was the main trail Lupe had been looking for leading over to the Jim Creek trail!  It stayed way up high, and didn’t come down here at all.  The trail going N over the pass was just a dead end.  A more careful look at the maps confirmed it.

Lupe had already lost too much elevation to consider climbing all the way back up to the pass.  The main trail went through some beautiful, easy high country that would have been fun to see, but going that way would add at least a couple of miles to the trek back to Green River Lakes.  Besides, the storm was still back in that direction.  The snowfield below the wall of rock wasn’t so steep that Lupe and SPHP couldn’t just descend it instead.

This snowfield below the wall of rock wasn’t so steep that Lupe and SPHP couldn’t simply walk right on down it. That became the new plan when SPHP finally realized there wasn’t actually any trail going down this way. Photo looks NW toward Peak 11,246 (Center).

Despite all the thunder, it didn’t rain very hard or long.  The American Dingo emerged from her hiding place ready to tackle the long snowfield.  Down, down, down she went.  Progress was fast on the snow, but lower down it finally ran out.  Lupe then had to wait while SPHP slowly picked a way through boulder fields, occasionally assisted by lanes of vegetation.

Heading down the long snowfield. Peak 11,246 is on the L. Porcupine Creek valley on the R. Photo looks NNW.
Lower down, there was far less snow. Lupe had to wait around while SPHP slowly picked a way down through boulder fields. Although thunder continued to rumble off to the S for another couple of hours, the sky cleared to the N, and it didn’t rain again. Photo looks NW.

It took a long time for SPHP to finally reach the valley floor.  Another long march ensued in the forest looking for the Porcupine Trail.  The Carolina Dog eventually found it.  From then on, Lupe stuck to the trail, with only two exceptions.  Just as she had inadvertently done 2 days ago on the way up, Loop twice bushwhacked through the forest to avoid 4 unnecessary fordings of raging Porcupine Creek.

Flowers like these were common in the forests and fields of the miles long Porcupine Creek valley.
Looking for the Porcupine Trail down in the Porcupine Creek valley. Photo looks N.

The sun had gone down behind the mountains.  Light was fading by the time Lupe reached the final ford of Porcupine Creek near Green River Lakes.  The roar of the water was tremendous.  If anything, Porcupine Creek looked more dangerous than it had been 2 days ago.

Weary from the long trek, SPHP dithered for 15 minutes.  The courage to attempt the ford carrying both Lupe and the backpack could not be summoned.  The deafening, powerful flow was too intimidating.  A slip might end tragically, with dear Lupe swept away almost instantly to be pinned against debris clogging the stream immediately below the ford.  SPHP would have little chance of saving her, if that happened.  The thought was too terrible to bear.

The creek had to be forded somewhere, though.  There was no way to bushwhack around it this time.  SPHP finally led Lupe downstream through a bog, looking for a safer place to cross.  After a 10 minute march, Porcupine Creek spread out evenly so the water wasn’t so deep.  The creek was wide, but had a fairly long straight stretch here with no obstacles nearby downstream.  The water was still moving fast.  It wasn’t whitewater, though, and was only knee deep.

This was probably as good as it was going to get.  SPHP stepped down into the stream.  Lupe sat on the bank, lifting up her little freckled front paw to plead for help.  SPHP picked her up and started across.

The bottom of Porcupine Creek was full of medium-sized rounded rocks.  The rocks were slimy and slippery.  SPHP had a hard time finding good footing.  It was a real struggle to maintain balance against the swift current.

Two thirds of the way across, SPHP began to lose it.  Fighting for control, Lupe got slung around wildly this way and that.  For close to 10 seconds, the outcome remained uncertain.  Then Lupe was flung unceremoniously aside as SPHP fell face first in Porcupine Creek.

SPHP was totally drenched from head to toe, but recovered quickly.  Thankfully, the backpack with the camera and all the rest of the gear had stayed above water.  That was all fine.  But where was Lupe?  SPHP immediately turned to look downstream.  She wasn’t there!

Over here!

There she was!  The totally soaked Dingo was already standing safely on the far shore.  After her unexpected plunge into Porcupine Creek, she’d made it in a flash the rest of the way across unharmed on her own.  SPHP sloshed over to her, and stepped dripping up onto the bank.

That was better than a Tilt-A-Whirl, SPHP, but you might have warned me about the grand finale!  What do you call that exciting little maneuver?

Sorry about that Loop.  Glad you’re OK.  I think that last bit of excitement is what’s known as our final ignominious defeat on this whole failure prone trek striving to get to Squaretop Mountain.

We aren’t coming to any more fords, are we?

No, I saved the best for last.  This was it, we’re done with fords.  Think I’m all forded out.  At least we’re across this damn creek in one piece.  Come on, we still have miles to go, and the skeeters are bad.

The flashlight had to come out on the Lakeside Trail.  Stars shone above, but it was plenty dark in the forest.  Once back at the G6 (10:24 PM), Lupe devoured a whole can of Alpo before turning in for the night.  It was nearly midnight by the time SPHP was in dry clothes, and could join her in Dingo dreamland.

Lupe at Lower Green River Lake the next morning, with beautiful, iconic Squaretop Mountain, which she still hadn’t made it to the top of, in the distance on the R. Wind River Range, Wyoming.

Related Links:

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 1: Green River Lakes to Porcupine Pass (7-13-17 & 7-14-17)

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 2: New Benchmark – Victory & Defeat! (7-15-17)

Green River Lakes, Squaretop Mountain & The Highline Trail to Beaver Park, Wind River Range, WY (8-30-15)

Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 1: On the Highline Trail from Green River Lakes to Beaver Park (7-20-18)

Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Beaver Park to the Summit (7-21-18)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index, or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 2: New Benchmark – Victory & Defeat! (7-15-17)

Day 8 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Before the sun was up, Lupe wanted out of her “tiny house”.  SPHP unzipped the door and let her go.  The Carolina Dog must have slept well.  She hadn’t been so perky last evening after her long trek to Porcupine Pass from Lower Green River Lake.  SPHP dozed a bit longer.  When SPHP finally emerged, Loop was busy watching 3 deer and a marmot.

Sweet!  Having a great time watching wildlife, aye Looper?

Oh, yes!  It turns out this Porcupine Pass is a terrific spot.  Don’t make any sudden movements, and please be quiet so the deer don’t run away!

Sorry, but we’ve got to get going, Loop.  Today’s the big day.  Squaretop Mountain or bust!  Before we head for New Benchmark, want to take a stroll up Porcupine Pass Peak for a better look at what we’re facing?

Sure!  Let me know when you’re ready.  I’m going to keep watching these deer till then.

Porcupine Pass Peak (10,890 ft.) is a barren hill on the SW side of Porcupine Pass.  Lupe gained less than 200 feet of elevation on her way to the top.  The stroll was an easy one, free of obstacles except for a steep snowbank just below the rim of the summit area.  Fortunately, the snowbank wasn’t large.  SPHP found a way around most of it.  The snow presented no problem at all to the American Dingo, who powered her way right on up, chomping snow for moisture as she went.

The top of Porcupine Pass Peak proved to be a large, gently rounded area, carpeted with green alpine plants.  Not a tree or bush anywhere.  Medium-sized rocks laid thinly scattered across the field.  In every direction, Lupe gazed upon magnificent mountains and huge valleys.

Looking down Porcupine Creek valley from Porcupine Pass Peak. Lupe had come up this valley yesterday on her way to Porcupine Pass where she’d spent the night. Photo looks N.
Looking W.
Lupe at the true summit of mighty Porcupine Pass Peak. Photo looks SW.
Looking S.
Looking SE across the Dodge Creek valley S of Porcupine Pass. Peak 11,290 is on the R.
Looking down on Porcupine Pass from Porcupine Pass Peak. Lupe’s tiny house where she’d spent the night is in sight. Peak 11,565 is on the L. Photo looks NE.

Beauty was everywhere, but the view to the E from Porcupine Pass Peak was disconcerting.  Beyond Porcupine Pass, Lupe had her first good look at New Benchmark (11,850 ft.).  The mountain was bigger, higher, and considerably more rugged than SPHP expected.

New Benchmark was the first of two major obstacles Lupe would face on her intended route to Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.).  Once safely past it, she would reach more favorable terrain on the way to Peaks 11,820 and 11,590.  The second obstacle she would come to was a steep drop down to a narrow saddle leading to Peak 11,415.  If Loop could cross that saddle, the remaining 1.5 miles N to the summit of Squaretop should be relatively easy.

Easy?  Too funny!  Staring only at maps, SPHP had been optimistic Lupe wouldn’t face anything more serious than a long ridge walk to get to Squaretop Mountain from Porcupine Pass today.  Now that the Carolina Dog was actually here, staring at the reality of New Benchmark, it was clear nothing about this was going to be easy.

Come on, Loopster!  We’ve got a gargantuan day ahead of us.  We’d best get on with it!

New Benchmark from Porcupine Pass Peak. Photo looks E.

Down at Porcupine Pass, SPHP disassembled Lupe’s tiny house.  It was now perfectly clear she wasn’t likely to get all the way to Squaretop Mountain and back again in a single day.  Everything had to come with.

Lupe and SPHP left Porcupine Pass.  The Carolina Dog lost a bit of elevation heading ESE over to the base of a long, steep, scree and talus slope.  This slope was the first big climb on the way up New Benchmark.

Lupe sniffs around at the base of the first steep rocky climb on the way up New Benchmark. Photo looks E

Lupe started climbing NE up the rough slope.  Looper had no trouble maneuvering around, but SPHP was slow as always.  Steady progress was being made, but it took a long time.  While SPHP struggled up, Lupe enjoyed scanning the rocky terrain from increasingly lofty perches.  Now and then, she encouraged SPHP to keep climbing.

Nearing the end of the steepest part of the first climb. Photo looks N.
Looking W back at Porcupine Pass (on the R straight up from Lupe’s head), and Porcupine Pass Peak (the low ridge in the foreground on the other side of upper Dodge Creek valley).

After a long way up, the terrain finally became less steep.  The rocks were bigger here, which was sometimes a help and sometimes a hindrance.  Lupe appeared to be coming to some kind of a top.

After a long climb, Lupe reached an area of larger rocks where the terrain wasn’t as steep. She appeared to be nearing some kind of a top. Photo looks E.

Loop reached a top alright, but it wasn’t the top of New Benchmark.  She was only halfway there on a false summit.  The false summit was a large area of rough ground full of big rocks and boulders.  Overall it was fairly level.  It wasn’t hard to move around here, which was encouraging.  SPHP was finally able to pick up the pace.

Lupe on the false summit 0.5 mile W of New Benchmark after the first big climb. Photo looks W.

The highest parts of the false summit were toward the SSE, but Lupe went only partway there.  A broad, relatively shallow saddle came into view leading NE to New Benchmark.

Halfway there! To New Benchmark (Center), that is. Squaretop Mountain wasn’t even in sight yet. Photo looks ENE from the false summit at the end of the first climb.

Much to her delight, the American Dingo got to romp across a big, gently sloping snowfield on her way down to the saddle.  At the saddle, she saw two beautiful pale blue tarns surrounded by ice and snow in a cirque below her to the NW.

Lupe on the saddle between the false summit and New Benchmark. She was impressed with the beauty of the two pale blue tarns surrounded by snow and ice seen below. Photo looks NW.

Once across the saddle, Lupe angled E.  The second big climb was about to begin.  Loop would have to gain just as much elevation as on the first leg up, but the terrain wasn’t quite as steep here.  It wasn’t nearly as rocky, either, which helped SPHP tremendously.  Lupe followed lanes of vegetation staying above, and safely away from, huge SW-facing cliffs.

Looking E from the saddle area at the 2nd and final big climb on the way up New Benchmark. The summit is R of Center. Lupe followed lanes of vegetation staying well above and away from the cliffs seen on the R. Photo looks E.

Suddenly, things were going well!  SPHP was able to climb much faster here.  Heart, lung and leg power were the only limitations.  SPHP could plod steadily upward instead of scrambling slowly among rocks.  Lupe was going to make it to the top of New Benchmark!  The question now was, what would she find on the other side?  Could she continue on to Squaretop Mountain?

Lupe and SPHP approached the summit full of hope.  Before long, the Carolina Dog was there, perched atop New Benchmark’s highest rocks!  New Benchmark (11,850 ft.) was a glorious peak in its own right.  The views of the Wind River Range were fantastic!

Lupe at 11,850 feet on top of New Benchmark. The views of the Wind River Range were spectacular! Photo looks SW.
Victory at New Benchmark! Lupe stands atop the summit. Photo looks N.
On another rock slightly below the summit that made a great Dingo perch. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

New Benchmark’s summit area was fairly large and flat.  The highest rocks were along the NW edge.  Lupe and SPHP searched around for a registry or a survey benchmark, but found neither.

Looking NW at New Benchmark’s true summit (Center). Less than half of the summit area is in view here. Lupe & SPHP searched, but didn’t find a registry or survey benchmark (new or old!) anywhere.

While the views were grand in all directions, some of the most spectacular peaks were off to the E and SE along the continental divide.  Lupe could see Gannett Peak (13,804 ft.), the highest mountain in Wyoming.

Lupe along the SE edge of the summit area. A huge chasm was between her and the upper S ridge of Peak 11,820 (L). However, she could see over both the chasm and the ridge for a good look at Gannett Peak (on far L), the highest mountain in Wyoming. Photo looks ESE.
Gannett Peak (L) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks ESE.
The view to the SE from New Benchmark.

Reaching the summit of New Benchmark was a peakbagging victory for Lupe.  Her ultimate objective, however, was still Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.).  She could see it from New Benchmark, about 3.5 miles to the NE as the crow flies.  In fact, she was looking down on it.

Lupe could see Squaretop Mountain, her ultimate objective, from New Benchmark. The top of Squaretop is the flat barren ridge seen beyond the closest chasm. Photo looks NE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The news wasn’t good, though.  To get to Squaretop Mountain, Lupe needed to be able to get from New Benchmark over to easier terrain near Peak 11,820 to the E.  Cliffs eliminated any possibility of going directly E or SE, but the topo map showed Lupe ought to be able to go down New Benchmark’s NNE slope and reach a saddle leading E.  This route shouldn’t be any steeper than the route Lupe had taken up New Benchmark.

Lupe started down New Benchmark’s NNE slope, only to discover a huge, long snowbank wrapped around the N and NE side of the mountain.  The snow curved steeply away out of sight.  How far down the snow went, and how steep it became was impossible to tell.  Unequipped, SPHP wasn’t willing to walk out on the snow far enough to tell.  A slip might easily become a rocket slide hundreds of feet onto deadly rocks below.

Looking for a way over to the Peak 11,820 area, Lupe went partway down New Benchmark’s N slope. However, a huge snowbank wrapped around the N and NE sides of the mountain sloped steeply out of sight. Photo looks N.

The sky had been partly cloudy all morning.  For the last several hours, it had been especially cloudy to the NE.  It hadn’t look threatening, though, and Lupe had spent a full hour up on New Benchmark’s superb summit.  Now, as Loop stood on rocks above the steep snowbank gazing E, dark clouds and rain were sweeping over the continental divide not too many miles beyond Squaretop Mountain.

As Lupe stood on rocks of New Benchmark’s N slope looking for a way to the easier terrain she could see to the E beyond the steep snowbank, dark clouds and rain swept over the continental divide. Gannett Peak (R) is on the horizon straight up from Lupe’s head. The flat top of Squaretop Mountain is along the L edge of this photo. Photo looks E.

Not looking too good, is it, SPHP?

No, not really, Loop.  So frustrating!  This route has been more challenging than I expected, but it should have worked.  If this snowbank wasn’t here, I still believe we would have been able to scramble down this slope easily enough and continue E.

Would we have made it to Squaretop then?

Not sure, but we certainly could have gotten a lot closer.  Once beyond New Benchmark, it looks like a cinch to get at least as far as Peak 11,590.  Beyond that, who knows?  Can’t tell from here.  Maybe there isn’t a safe route across the saddle to Peak 11,415?  That would have been the last real obstacle, though.

So now what?  Are we beaten?

Looks like it, Loopster.  We’re staring at defeat here as far as Squaretop Mountain is concerned.  Weather’s looking kind of iffy, anyway.  Even if we could continue on, it might not be the smartest thing to spend the rest of the day sauntering around on exposed mountaintops.

Well, don’t take it too hard, SPHP.  We made it to New Benchmark, didn’t we?  That was a peakbagging victory.  New Benchmark is a splendid mountain, wouldn’t you say?

Oh, yes, indeed!  New Benchmark is awesome!  It’s a grand consolation prize as your peakbagging goes.  Still, as far as our original intentions went, this day has been a small victory, and a major defeat.  Had my heart set on Squaretop Mountain for you.  Thought we would be there today.  Really did.

Oh, whaa, whaa!  Get over it, SPHP.  Look at where we are, high in the glorious Wind River Range!  Let’s have fun!  We going back to Porcupine Pass now?

Yeah, I suppose we better.  No sense arguing with reality in the mountains, especially mountains as big as the Winds.  Onward, sweet puppy!

Now you’re talking!  Maybe the deers and marmot will still be there?  I hope so!

By the time Loop made it around to the W side of New Benchmark to start the first big descent, a storm could be seen approaching.  The surprising thing was that it was coming from the W where the sky had been relatively clear, instead of from the E.  The storm was quite some distance away, so it appeared the Carolina Dog still had time to carry on for a while.

Halfway down to the saddle leading to the false summit, suddenly the whole sky turned gray.  Clouds were forming directly overhead.  Light rain fell.  More was certainly on the way.  Continuing down the mountain, SPHP started looking for a place where Lupe could take shelter.  Some tall rocks with a slight overhang was all that was on offer.  Lupe reached this refuge moments before the downpour began in earnest.

It rained hard for half an hour, with pea-sized hail thrown into the mix toward the end just for fun.  Lupe was fairly well protected by the little overhang.  The Carolina Dog emerged from the experience only a bit damp.  SPHP, however, was thoroughly drenched.  Only SPHP’s head and shoulders had been spared.

Ha, ha!  Look at you, SPHP!  For once, you’re the drowned rat.  Usually I’m the soggy doggie!

Heh, that was a bit more refreshing than it needed to be, alright.  Come on, Looper, let’s move it!  The storm isn’t over yet.  Let’s get down to the saddle during this break.

Good idea.  I remember some really big rocks down there.  We can find a better place to hide!

Stray raindrops continued falling all the way down to the saddle.  Lupe was right about the big rocks.  The saddle featured a collection of huge boulders all jumbled together.  Loop and SPHP found a much larger overhang, almost like a cave.  Not a moment too soon, either.  No sooner was the American Dingo safe inside than the next downpour began.

This time it didn’t rain quite as hard.  A cold wind blew instead.  Another shot of pea-sized hail fell.  The cave wasn’t very big.  It would have been considerably more comfortable, if the ceiling had been higher and dripped less.  SPHP sat scrunched over on a small rock, watching water trickle down the wet ceiling, while Loop stared out of the cave.  Hopefully it would all be over soon.  This wouldn’t be such a great way to spend the night.

After 20 minutes, the rain tapered off.  A small patch of blue sky appeared.  Lupe watched the patch grow for 10 minutes before it seemed safe to venture out.  Scattered raindrops carried on the breeze continued falling as Lupe and SPHP headed SW toward the false summit.  By the time Lupe was there, the rain was over.

Lupe back on some of the big rocks in the area of the false summit. The rain was over now. Photo looks W.

As Lupe began the final big descent, the sky began to clear.  The lucky American Dingo would enjoy sunshine the rest of the way back to Porcupine Pass.  As usual, it took SPHP a long time going down the steep, rocky slopes.  It didn’t matter, though.  The air was fresh and clean, the sky blue, the mountains gorgeous.

Victory and defeat!  This was living the life of Lupe.  She had it better than Riley ever did!

On the final descent to Porcupine Pass. Photo looks SW.
Relaxing in the evening next to the tiny house in Porcupine Pass after the journey to New Benchmark and back, 7-15-17.

Related Links:

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 3: The Dome Peak Salvage Operation (7-16-17)

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 1: Lower Green River Lake to Porcupine Pass (7-13-17 & 7-14-17)

Green River Lakes, Squaretop Mountain & the Highline Trail to Beaver Park, Wind River Range, WY (8-30-15)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 1: Green River Lakes to Porcupine Pass (7-13-17 & 7-14-17)

Days 6 & 7 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

The morning after Lupe’s return from her successful 4 day journey to Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) was a lazy one.  The Carolina Dog had certainly earned a rest day!  SPHP picked up some fried chicken and a salad at Safeway in Lander.  Lupe took a couple of easy walks down by the Middle Popo Agie River across from Lander City Park.

By 11:00 AM, it was plenty hot out.  McDonald’s had ice cream cones on sale for 50 cents.  Even cheapskate SPHP was willing to spring for that!  Lupe got lessons in how to eat an ice cream cone.  By watching SPHP’s example, she became quite proficient at it.  It turns out Carolina Dogs are naturals at eating ice cream cones!

Enjoying a 50 cent McDonald’s ice cream cone in Lander, Wyoming. Lupe caught onto the whole ice cream cone concept in a flash!

Lupe’s next peakbagging objective, Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.), was clear over on the other side of the Wind River Range at the far NW entrance to Green River Lakes.  It would take all afternoon to drive over there, so right after the ice cream cones vanished, Lupe and SPHP left Lander and hit the road.

On her grand summer of 2015 Dingo Vacation, Lupe had spent a day reconnoitering Squaretop Mountain.  SPHP has an old book called Wind River Trails by Finis Mitchell, who spent most of his life running a fishing camp in the Wind River Range near the Big Sandy entrance.  In it, Mitchell describes a route up Squaretop Mountain from the E leaving the Highline Trail near Beaver Park.

Mitchell wrote that his route up Squaretop Mountain was “not difficult”.  He had taken scouting groups, and even a 4 year old child up this way once, yet Lupe had arrived at Beaver Park in late August 2015 only to see towering cliffs.  The topo map showed 3,500 feet of elevation gain in less than a mile.  No doubt Mitchell knew what he was talking about, but Lupe’s reconnaissance left SPHP desiring a more detailed route description than Finis had provided in Wind River Trails.

On the way back to Green River Lakes, Lupe had met Chad, a friendly forest ranger.  Did Chad know of a route up Squaretop?  Chad said he’d been to the top of Squaretop himself.  He said Mitchell’s route was hard to find since some of the landmarks in his route description (burnt areas) had changed.  SPHP asked if there wasn’t a feasible route from the W via Porcupine Pass?  Chad confirmed there was one, but it was longer, and he didn’t know the details.

Now, almost two years later, Lupe was on her way to Green River Lakes hoping to find that route from Porcupine Pass to Squaretop Mountain!  Hopes were high, bolstered by her success in reaching the summit of Wind River Peak.

The last part of the road to Green River Lakes, which used to be rough, was greatly improved.  It was still dusty and washboardy, but wasn’t nearly as stony as in 2015.  Gophers were abundant, and frequently dashed across the road as the G6 approached.  Lupe was enthusiastic about the gophers, and barked frantically at them as she sped by.

Lupe arrived at the trailhead near Lower Green River Lake at 5:00 PM.  Loop and SPHP were both anxious to go down to the lake to get a good look at gorgeous Squaretop Mountain again.

Lupe arrives at Lower Green River Lake for the first time in nearly 2 years. Her beautiful peakbagging objective, Squaretop Mountain (Center), is in sight beyond the lake. Photo looks SSE.

Lower Green River Lake and Squaretop Mountain were every bit as lovely as Lupe and SPHP remembered.  Of all the mountains in the Wind River Range, Finis Mitchell had chosen Squaretop for the cover of his book Wind River Trails.

Lupe wading in Lower Green River Lake. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP both went wading in Lower Green River Lake.  The mosquitoes were bad, though, and eventually put an end to the fun.  Lupe then went down to the Highline Trail bridge where the Green River exits the lake.  A sign said that the bridge over Clear Creek (near the opposite end of Lower Green River Lake) was out due to flooding.

Lupe on the Highline Trail bridge over the Green River close to where it exits Lower Green River Lake. The Green River was running high, and a sign said the bridge over Clear Creek near the opposite end of the lake was out due to flooding. Photo looks NNW.

The Green River was running high, full of water from bank to bank.  Having just seen how full the creeks were, and how much snow still existed in the high country near Wind River Peak, Lupe wasn’t surprised.  With the bridge over Clear Creek out, Lupe wouldn’t be able to take the Highline Trail (No. 94) to Porcupine Pass tomorrow.  Fortunately, an alternate route exists.  Lupe could still take the Lakeside Trail (No. 144).

Even though Lower Green River Lake is at 7,961 feet elevation, the evening was hot.  The mosquitoes were bad.  Lupe and SPHP ended up staying in the G6, periodically running the AC to keep cool.  While SPHP caught up the journal, Lupe watched gophers.  Every now and then, she just had to be let out to bark at squirrels, or sniff at a gopher hole.

The next morning it was time for action!  Lupe and SPHP went down to Lower Green River Lake again to admire Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.) before setting out for Porcupine Pass.  (8:44 AM, 7-14-17, 66°F).

Lupe at Lower Green River Lake the morning of 7-14-17 ready to set out for Porcupine Pass, and eventually Squaretop Mountain (Center). Photo looks SSE.
Squaretop Mountain from Lower Green River Lake, Wind River Range, Wyoming. Photo looks SSE.

After a good look at her magnificent objective, Lupe followed the Lakeside Trail S along the W side of Lower Green River Lake.  Despite it’s name, the Lakeside Trail is seldom down by the shore.  Most of the time the trail stayed in the forest 50 to 150 feet above the lake.  Only once in a while did Lupe come to an opening with a good view of the lake and mountains beyond.

Heading S on the Lakeside Trail on the W side of Lower Green River Lake. Despite its name, most of the time the Lakeside Trail is 50 to 150 feet above the shoreline. Flat Top Mountain (11,823 ft.) is in the distance on the L. Photo looks ESE.

Lupe was less than halfway along Lower Green River Lake, when a backpacker approached from the opposite direction.  He turned out to be quite an interesting fellow.  Radek Hecsko was 48 years old, and from the Czech Republic.  He billed himself as “Czech Mix”.

Lupe meets “Czech Mix” on the Lakeside Trail. Czech Mix was hiking the Continental Divide Trail from Mexico to Canada.

Czech Mix was hiking the entire 3,100 mile Continental Divide Trail from Mexico to Canada!  He had started on May 2 in New Mexico, and hoped to reach the Canadian border by mid-September.  In 2015, he had previously hiked the entire 2,600 mile Pacific Crest Trail, which also goes all the way from Mexico to Canada.

Czech Mix jokingly called the Continental Divide Trail the “IPA Trail”.  He said he typically hikes 30 miles per day, though not in the most rugged territory, and does take occasional rest days.  Depending on the kindness of strangers, he hitchhikes to towns whenever possible to resupply.  On the trail he often goes hungry, but in towns he packs in the calories feasting on hamburgers, coffee and IPA’s.

Czech Mix said he might eventually take on the 2,190 mile Appalachian Trail to complete the “Triple Crown”, a feat very few people have ever accomplished.  He hadn’t really decided yet, though.  It was another massive undertaking.  For now he was staying concentrated on enjoying and completing the Continental Divide Trail.  Completing the CDT would be a rare accomplishment in itself, since it was the longest of the 3 trails and by far the least traveled.

After petting Lupe, and a nice chat with SPHP, Czech Mix pressed on.

Well, that Czech Mix was mighty impressive, Loopster!  Can you imagine tackling a 3,000+ mile long trail through high mountains like that?  It’s just plain heroic!

Oh, are we gonna do that?

I’ve no doubt you could, Loop, but I’m not up for it.  Completing any one of those trails is a gigantic endeavor!  I’ll be happy, if we can just make it to Squaretop Mountain.

Oh, I’m sticking with you, SPHP.  I’ll be happy if we can find some squirrels!

Flat Top Mountain (11,823 ft.) (L) and White Rock (11,284 ft.) (R) from the Lakeside Trail. Lower Green River Lake in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Lupe continued meeting people along the Lakeside Trail.  They came strung out in small groups, but were all members of a youth group that had been camped at Twin Lakes.  The group leaders were all concerned about an 18 year old, who had wandered off on his own and never showed up at camp last night.  Their anxiety was only increased by the knowledge that his father was an attorney.

Two miles from where she’d started, Lupe reached the end of Lower Green River Lake.  Another 0.25 mile brought her to a trail junction.  Loop turned R on the Porcupine Trail (No. 137).  She would be gaining elevation nearly all the way to Porcupine Pass, a good 6 or 7 miles away as the trail goes.

Sign at the trail junction S of Lower Green River Lake. Lupe would take the trail to Porcupine Pass.
Lupe about to hit the Porcupine Trail seen beyond her. Photo looks S.

The Porcupine Trail didn’t begin climbing immediately, however.  For almost another 0.25 mile it remained level until Loop reached Porcupine Creek.  No bridge!  Another ford.  Lovely!  Lupe had forded a lot of big streams on her way to Wind River Peak, but SPHP had been hoping for a bridge here.  No such luck.

Less than 0.25 mile S of the trail junction, Lupe arrives at Porcupine Creek. SPHP had been hoping for a bridge. No such luck.

Actually, that wasn’t entirely true.  Upstream of the ford, a log extended over the creek.  A thin cable, which could be easily grabbed for support, was stretched high above it.  The log’s circumference wasn’t all that large, however, especially toward the far end.  Lupe couldn’t grab the cable, and might easily fall.  It was a drop of several feet into Porcupine Creek.  This makeshift bridge wasn’t going to do.

The near side of the ford was shallow, slow-moving water.  The far side was deeper, and a great volume of water seemed to be racing by.  What bothered SPHP far more than the ford itself, however, was what was right below it.  Only 20 feet below the ford, Porcupine Creek made a sharp bend.  This bend was clogged with sunken logs, branches and other debris.  The water was over Lupe’s head.  If she got swept downstream, she would be pinned with great force against the debris.

Czech Mix hadn’t come this way.  The entire youth group had, however.  No one had mentioned any problems crossing Porcupine Creek.  SPHP didn’t like the setup, but decided to carry Lupe across.

The bottom where the creek was deepest was stony.  Fortunately, perhaps due to traffic on the trail, the stones weren’t very slippery.  Porcupine Creek turned out to be only knee deep, but SPHP still had a hard time maintaining balance on the uneven bottom against the force of the swift current.  The Carolina Dog was glad to be let gently back down on solid ground again, when SPHP managed to struggle across safely.

The Porcupine Trail now began to climb aggressively, switchbacking SW up a steep forested slope.  Partway up, Lupe could hear Porcupine Falls somewhere off in the woods to the N, but she never saw it.  After gaining 800 feet of elevation, the trail gradually started leveling off.  Eventually Porcupine Creek came back into view.

After gaining more than 800 feet of elevation from the ford, Porcupine Creek came back into view again as the trail leveled out. Photo looks W.

Shortly after leveling out, the trail turned NW and forded Porcupine Creek again.  It could be seen continuing up a hillside beyond the far bank.  Thinking that was just the way to Twin Lakes, SPHP skipped the turn, and led Lupe SW beyond a trail junction staying on the SE side of Porcupine Creek.

The trail Lupe was on soon disappeared in a bog.  SPHP was puzzled when it couldn’t be found again on the other side.  Where had it gone?  No matter.  Lupe and SPHP continued onward, bushwhacking through the forest up hilly terrain.

After more than 0.25 mile, Lupe did find the Porcupine Trail again!  Belatedly, SPHP suddenly realized the trail to Twin Lakes hadn’t branched off until the Porcupine Trail had crossed over to the W side of the creek.  To stay on the trail, Lupe should have taken the ford that SPHP had her skip.

Oh, well.  No harm done.  Lupe had managed to bushwhack her way through, and it was actually better this way when the creek was so high.  The American Dingo’s bushwhacking had avoided 2 stream fords in the process.  Puppy, ho!  Onward!

Lupe finds the Porcupine Trail again. Although the day had started out mostly sunny, by now the sky was clouding up. Photo looks SW.

The trail was in great condition where Lupe found it.  It headed SW up a huge valley.  Porcupine Creek was often in view flowing through wide green meadows.  The trail almost always stayed out in the open, but gradually deteriorated, becoming muddy and passing through bogs in some places.   Lupe had wonderful views of rugged mountains towering over the far side of the valley.

Porcupine Creek flows down a wide valley of green meadows. Lofty peaks towered above both sides of the valley. Photo looks SW.

More than 0.5 mile from where Lupe had picked up the trail again, Porcupine Creek turned W to go around a small forested hill.  This was an especially nice spot, and seemed like a good place to take a break.  Lupe left the main trail to follow a short side spur down to the stream.  Wildflowers grew in abundance.  Lupe laid down for a rest.  Mosquitoes were a nuisance for the first time today, but they weren’t too bad.

Lupe pauses for a rest near Porcupine Creek. Photo looks W.
Wildflowers were abundant, although bright red ones like these were far less common.

After a pleasant break, Lupe and SPHP continued on.  The Porcupine Trail climbed the small forested hill, but soon exited the forest again.  For a while the trail was wet and boggy.  However, the valley eventually narrowed.  The trail became rockier, steeper, and re-entered the forest.  Up ahead were mountains with more snow on them than the scattered patches seen up to this point.

Beyond the small forested hill, the trail went back out into the open again. For a while it stayed wet and boggy. Meanwhile, the mountains up ahead were looking snowier. Photo looks S.
As the Porcupine Creek valley narrowed, the trail dried out and became rockier. Lupe started gaining elevation more rapidly. Photo looks S.
Lower down Porcupine Creek had been a gentle meandering stream, but now it was mostly whitewater as it tumbled over increasingly rocky terrain. Photo looks S.
Looking W across the Porcupine Creek valley.

After a long march, the Porcupine Trail finally emerged from the forest again.  It approached Porcupine Creek, closely following the E bank.  As Lupe continued S, the trail disappeared straight into a huge snowbank.  Efforts to pick up the trail on the far side of the snowbank failed.  Sigh.  What now?

Lupe had been making good progress toward the upper end of the long valley.  Ahead was another stretch of forest, but it couldn’t be too much farther to open ground again.  There seemed to be no choice, but to resume bushwhacking and see where it led.  The American Dingo climbed back into the forest.

The forest was denser here than where Lupe had bushwhacked before.  It wasn’t too hard to get around, though.  Loopster soon came to two substantial tributaries of Porcupine Creek in quick succession.  They were wild, whitewater streams that plunged W down from mountains on the E side of the valley.

Bushwhacking through the forest again, Lupe came to two substantial tributaries of Porcupine Creek in quick succession.

Fortunately neither tributary was so large that Lupe couldn’t find a safe place to ford them in short order.  Looper hadn’t gotten too far beyond the second stream when she reached the end of the forest.  She started crossing a meadow, and came across the Porcupine Trail yet again.

SPHP didn’t realize it at the time, but the trail had once again crossed over to the W side of Porcupine Creek for a short distance before returning to the E side.  So what?  Lupe’s bushwhacking had avoided another 2 fordings.  She was close to the end of the valley now.  Porcupine Pass was less than a mile away!  The trail went SE, heading straight for it.

Back on the Porcupine Trail again. Lupe is getting close to Porcupine Pass (Center), now less than a mile away. Photo looks SE.

The trail became progressively steeper and steeper.  Soon Lupe was on switchbacks.  The forest began to thin out.  The trees became stunted.  When Lupe reached treeline, Porcupine Pass was in view.  It was nothing like SPHP expected.

Porcupine Pass is at 10,700 feet elevation.  Yet due solely to its name, SPHP had always thought of it as being forested.  Thought of it as a place one might find porcupines – not that finding a porcupine was a good idea.  An encounter with one might end very badly for Lupe.

No worries, though, on that score!  Only scattered trees remained in view ahead.  None at all were up on the high saddle which appeared to be Porcupine Pass.  Lupe was still hundreds of feet below the pass.  A very long, steep snowbank led up to the top.  Egads!

Above tree line, Lupe’s first really good look at Porcupine Pass (L) was nothing like SPHP expected. Photo looks S.

Lupe continued up the trail, now hidden beneath snow, until she got close to the steep final slope leading up to Porcupine Pass.  Here she left the trail, and traveled E climbing a rocky hill.  She got up high enough for a good look around at the terrain in most directions.

Still hundreds of feet below Porcupine Pass, but not far from it, Lupe had this grand view of the Porcupine Creek valley she had just traveled up. Photo looks NNW.
Looking W. The Jim Creek Trail, which Lupe had bypassed while bushwhacking, is somewhere on the green slope on the opposite side of the valley.

The view to the E was the critical one.  It was decision time.  SPHP had originally planned for Lupe to go all the way on up to Porcupine Pass.  From there she would head E tomorrow for New Benchmark (11,850 ft.) and Peak 11,820 on her way to Squaretop Mountain (11,625 ft.).

However, an alternate route skipping New Benchmark entirely might be possible by continuing E from here without ever going all the way up to Porcupine Pass.  The topo map seemed to suggest this might be an easier route.

SPHP hesitated.  The view to the E was not all that reassuring.  Going E didn’t look clearly possible or impossible for Lupe.  There was a lot of rough, rocky ground.  Half a mile away or more was a wall of rock.  From here, SPHP couldn’t see enough detail to tell for certain if Loop might be able to skirt it to the S, or not.

Looking E from below Porcupine Pass. Lupe could skip Porcupine Pass and New Benchmark going this way, but it looked like a lot of rough terrain. Could she even get past the wall of rock seen on the N (L) bypassing it to the S (R)?
Another look E with more help from the telephoto lens.

A significantly longer, but perhaps less rugged option was also in sight to the NE.  That route all depended on whether Lupe could manage to get up on a big ridge at the end of a valley.  She probably could, but she’d have to travel quite a distance to find out for sure.

Another alternate route was in sight. Maybe Lupe could travel up the distant upper valley seen L of Center and climb up on the big ridge at the end? Once on the ridge, she could head SE bypassing both New Benchmark and Peak 11820. That might work, but certainly seemed to be the long way around. Photo looks NE.

Maybe all of the routes would work?  Maybe none of them would.  The decision on which way to go was an important one, perhaps critical if Lupe was going to have any success in reaching Squaretop Mountain.  Yet the right thing to do wasn’t at all clear.  Lupe could only try one approach.  SPHP wasn’t carrying enough supplies for any more than that.

Only short sections of the trail switchbacking 400 feet up the steep slope to Porcupine Pass were visible.  The vast majority of the trail was buried beneath a long steep snowfield.  However, a lane of snow-free ground existed E of the trail.  It was very steep, but Lupe could climb that slope easily enough.  SPHP could probably manage it, too.

In the end, SPHP decided to stick with the original plan.  Lupe began the climb up to Porcupine Pass.

Lupe on the final steep slope leading to Porcupine Pass. Photo looks S. And up!

It was a good thing the slope wasn’t any steeper, or SPHP wouldn’t have made it.  There were places where there was nothing firm to hang onto.  Traction wasn’t always good.  Yet it wasn’t long before Loop and SPHP were safely up at Porcupine Pass.  The views were impressive!

Loop arrives at Porcupine Pass! She had an impressive view of the long Porcupine Creek valley (R) she had traveled up to get here. Photo looks NNW.
The Dodge Creek valley from Porcupine Pass. Photo looks SSE.

Porcupine Pass was beautiful, but barren.  It felt cold, remote and forlorn.  Lupe hadn’t seen anyone since leaving the Lakeside Trail many miles ago.  It had been a long day.  For hours during the afternoon there had been dark clouds off to the NW, but now that it was evening, the sky had partially cleared.  There were still clouds around, but they didn’t look threatening.

Congratulations, Loopster!  This is it.  Porcupine Pass.  You made it!

We’re staying here?

Yeah, for tonight.  I’ll set up your tiny house in a minute.  Want to climb that hill to the W for a look around, once it’s up?  It’s Porcupine Pass Peak (10,890 ft.).  Won’t take long.

Can we do it in the morning, SPHP?  I’m hungry, and ready for a snooze.  Mosquitoes are bugging me even up here.  I’d sort of like to get in the tiny house, and call it a day.

Sure, we can do that.  I’d wish for a breeze to blow the bloodsuckers away, but its probably not a good idea.

Why not?

I have a feeling Porcupine Pass would be an absolute hurricane if the wind came up.  We’re lucky it’s a calm evening, even if we have to put up with some bad bugs.  Anyway, you’re right.  Tomorrow’s our big push for Squaretop Mountain.  We may as well eat and rest up for it as much as possible.  Just getting to New Benchmark (11,850 ft.) might be an ordeal, and Squaretop is miles beyond it.

Are we going to have problems?

Dunno.  Maybe.  New Benchmark looks far more challenging than I’d expected.   However, once we’re beyond it, you’ll have gained all the elevation you need to, and the terrain ought to be a lot easier.  It better be, if we’re ever going to make it to Squaretop.  We’ll see, though.  One thing is for certain, tomorrow will be another long day.

Whatever.  What’s for dinner?

For you, Alpo and Cliff bar.

Oh, that doesn’t sound bad at all!  Hurry up and get the tiny house assembled, would you?  I’m famished!

On it!

Lupe at Porcupine Pass, with her fully assembled tiny house in the background. Photo looks SSE.
View to the E toward New Benchmark (R) from Porcupine Pass. Tomorrow Lupe would have to go over New Benchmark and miles beyond it, if she hoped to get to Squaretop Mountain.

Related Links:

Striving for Squaretop Mountain,Wind River Range, WY – Part 2: New Benchmark – Victory & Defeat! (7-15-17)

Green River Lakes, Squaretop Mountain & the Highline Trail to Beaver Park, Wind River Range, WY (8-30-15)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 4: Tayo Lake to Worthen Meadow (7-12-17)

Day 5 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

The sun was up, and so was SPHP, busily engaged in breaking camp.  Was Lupe OK?  For once, it was the American Dingo that still seemed tired.  Lupe remained relaxing in her “tiny house” until SPHP was ready to disassemble it.

Looking WNW from Lupe’s “tiny house” the morning after she’d climbed Wind River Peak. It was going to be a glorious, but long day.

Come on out of there, Loop!  It’s a glorious morning, and we have a long day ahead of us.

What’s the rush?  Are we going to climb Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) again?

I wish, but no, we aren’t.  As much as I hate to leave such beautiful territory, it’s time to head back to civilization.  The rush is that this whole trip was only supposed to take 3 days, and this is the 4th day.  I’ve already had a bite to eat this morning, but now all I have left is one Cliff bar.  No doubt you’ll want at least half of it.

We’re out of food!?

I am.  You still have plenty Taste of the Wild.  At least, until I start chowing down on it, which will happen tomorrow for sure, if we don’t get out of here.  It’s a long way back to Worthen Meadow Reservoir.

What flavor did you say that Cliff bar was?

I didn’t, but it’s chocolate coconut, if you must know.

Oh, that does sound good!  Let’s get going!

Lupe ready to leave base camp S of Wind River Peak. Lake 11,145 is in view. Photo looks WNW.

Only 500 or 600 feet S of base camp, Tayo Lake came into view.  Most of the lake was still covered in snow and ice.  What a beautiful sight it was!  It really was a shame to have to leave.

Shortly after departing base camp, ice and snow-covered Tayo Lake came into view again. Mount Nystrom (12,356 ft.) (Center) is in the distance. On the way past Tayo Lake, Lupe would go down the long ridge seen on the L. Photo looks SSE.

Loop had just been feeling lazy back in her tiny house.  There wasn’t a thing wrong with her.  On the way down to Tayo Lake, she was bursting with energy.  She had a great time racing across the open heather and frisking on big snowbanks.

When Lupe got close to the end of Tayo Lake, SPHP suggested leaving the ridge to go down to the shore near the Tayo Creek outlet.  Loopster was in favor of that.  She hadn’t actually been to the lake shore on the way to Wind River Peak.  This was her last chance to see it.

Lupe by the shore of Tayo Lake. Wind River Peak is the high ridge on the R. Lupe had spent the last 2 nights camped below it on the lower green ridge. Lake 11,145 is now out of view in the higher cirque beyond Tayo Lake. Photo looks NW.

The water was perfectly still.  High rock ridges reflected in the silvery smooth surface.  Lupe could hear the nearby gurgling of Tayo Creek starting down the valley.  Beyond Tayo Lake was the big green ridge where she’d spent the past two nights in her tiny house at base camp.  From there she’d been able to look down on Lake 11,145, now hidden in a cirque above Tayo Lake.  Wind River Peak towered over it all.  Only yesterday, Lupe had been up there.

After a few minutes lost in contemplation of the magnificent scene, Lupe reminded SPHP it was time to press on.  SPHP led Loopster back up onto the ridge.  She then started S down wide snowy lanes flanked by stunted forest.

As Lupe descended, SPHP kept watching for the route she had taken up to Tayo Lake 2 days ago, but never really found it.  Uncertain whether the Carolina Dog was too far W or E, SPHP led her back and forth in both directions.  Lupe traveled over snowfields SPHP was certain she hadn’t been to before.  Gradually it dawned on SPHP that Loop was too far W.  It wouldn’t really matter, though, would it?  The terrain should eventually funnel all routes down to the same general area.

The first indication of a potential problem came when Lupe reached a rushing stream.  Cascading swiftly down a narrow channel, the stream was large enough to be Tayo Creek, yet Lupe was W of it.  How could that be?  Lupe had started off E of Tayo Creek when she left Tayo Lake, and hadn’t crossed it.  SPHP was also certain Looper hadn’t crossed or even seen this stream on the way up to Tayo Lake 2 days ago.  The maps revealed nothing.  Hmm.

The first sign of a potential problem came when Lupe reached this swift stream somewhere well below Tayo Lake. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe followed the gushing stream down to a large clearing where it fed into a pond.  A short distance below the pond, a smaller stream flowed down from the NW to join the larger one.  The smaller stream almost certainly had to be Tayo Creek.  Tayo Creek wasn’t particularly wide here, but was fairly deep.

Lupe reaches another smaller creek coming down from the NW. This had to be Tayo Creek. Photo looks WNW.
The larger stream just above the confluence with Tayo Creek. Photo looks NE.

Loop needed to get across Tayo Creek, but SPHP didn’t relish the idea of fording it.  Near the confluence of the creeks, snow bridges extended over both streams.  All the snow banks Lupe had crossed higher up had been strong enough to hold even SPHP’s weight.  These snow bridges looked substantial, too.

Just below the confluence, another snow bridge went over the combined streams.  If the snow bridge over Tayo Creek collapsed, Lupe might get swept under the downstream bridge where SPHP couldn’t help her.

The snow bridge over Tayo Creek just below the confluence with the large stream Lupe had been following. If Lupe got swept under it while trying to cross Tayo Creek, SPHP wouldn’t be able to help her.

SPHP tested the snow bridge by the edge of Tayo Creek.  It seemed plenty sturdy enough.  Lupe would be fine, if she went first.

Lupe ready to dash across the snow bridge over Tayo Creek. Photo looks SE.

Lupe dashed across the snow bridge with no problem.  SPHP followed.  The snow bridge held.  Well, that was easy!  Way easier than fording the creek would have been.

Lupe was now W of Tayo Creek.  She wouldn’t have to cross it again, but knew from experience other big streams were still ahead.  The American Dingo followed Tayo Creek S.  She ran and sniffed happily in open green forest.  Meanwhile, the stream plunged into a narrow canyon.  Lupe was losing elevation much more slowly.  Tayo Creek was soon far below her.

After crossing Tayo Creek, Lupe ran and played in an open green forest. Meanwhile, Tayo Creek plunged down a narrow canyon, leaving Lupe on much higher ground. Photo looks SE.

Tayo Creek disappeared from view.  Lupe continued through the forest in a S or SE direction, still losing elevation.  A mere 15 minutes after crossing Tayo Creek, Lupe arrived at yet another large stream.  This was the stream flowing E from Coon Lake.

15 minutes after crossing Tayo Creek, Lupe arrived at this stream from Coon Lake. Photo looks WSW.

The stream from Coon Lake was too wild to ford where Lupe reached it.  Loop and SPHP followed it upstream looking for a place to cross.  After 15 minutes, SPHP saw a single flat rock that the entire stream was flowing over.  The water was shallow and evenly spread.  Lupe could cross there!

A 15 minute upstream search brought Lupe near this flat rock where the stream was evenly spread out and shallow. Lupe could cross here! Photo looks SW.

Lupe had other ideas.  While SPHP started for the flat rock, she found some other place to cross the creek.  Suddenly, there she was on the opposite S bank!

Before she even reached the big flat rock, Lupe found a way across the stream from Coon Lake all on her own. SPHP never saw how she did it, but suddenly, there she was standing proudly on a snowbank on the far shore. Photo looks SW.

Having made it over the creek all on her own, Lupe was anxious for SPHP to follow.  The big flat rock wasn’t far away, but rocks, trees and a considerable quantity of deadfall made it a struggle to get there.  SPHP shouted to Lupe to stay where she was.  For several minutes, she did.  However, Loop became increasingly concerned as SPHP continued crashing around obstacles on the opposite shore.

When SPHP reached the flat rock, it was possible to see a good snow bridge only a little farther upstream.  That would be an even better place to cross!  SPHP pleaded with Lupe to remain where she was, but when SPHP turned away she couldn’t wait any longer.  Suddenly she was at SPHP’s feet again, fine and dandy.  She’d crossed the stream unseen a second time.

Upon reaching the snow bridge, Lupe could see she wasn’t far below a massive snowfield that extended out of sight up the slope to the W.  Coon Lake must be up there somewhere, perhaps not too far away.  Unfortunately, the already long day ahead meant Lupe didn’t have time for a side trip to go see it.  She crossed the creek from Coon Lake for the third time on the snow bridge with SPHP.

S of the creek again, Loop headed SE through the forest.  Half an hour went by before she reached another big stream.  This was the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake.

After safely crossing the stream from Coon Lake 3 times, Lupe arrives at the next large stream. This one flows N out of Mountain Sheep Lake. Photo looks S.

Once again, Lupe had reached the stream at a poor place to attempt a crossing.  She traveled upstream looking for a better spot, and soon stumbled upon Mountain Sheep Lake itself.  The pretty lake was long, narrow, and tucked in a deep side valley off the main canyon Tayo Creek flows through.

Looking for a way across the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake, Lupe arrives at the lake itself. Mountain Sheep Lake was a beautiful sight tucked away in a deep side canyon. Photo looks S.

A short break was taken to admire Mountain Sheep Lake.  When it was over, the problem of where to cross the outlet stream still needed to be resolved.  There seemed to be two choices.  Not too far downstream from the lake, the creek flowed through a rocky area where it might be possible to rock hop most of the way over.

A little downstream of Mountain Sheep Lake the creek passed through this stony area where Lupe might be able to rock hop most of the way across. Photo looks N.

The other choice was to ford the creek right at the outlet from Mountain Sheep Lake.  The stream was wide here, but relatively shallow most of the way.  The current was slower, too.

Looking across the outlet from Mountain Sheep Lake. Photo looks E.

SPHP thought maybe the outlet was the better choice.  Convinced Lupe wouldn’t have a problem, SPHP started across, but Loop didn’t follow.  SPHP made it to the opposite bank only to turn around and see poor Loop still stranded on the other side.  She was intimidated by the width of the stream.

After crossing the stream at the outlet of Mountain Sheep Lake, SPHP turned around to find Lupe still stranded on the far shore. She was scared of the width of the creek, and hadn’t dared come across. Photo looks SW.

SPHP shouted encouragement to Loop.  She could do this!

Lupe hesitated, clearly torn over what to do.  She went back and forth along the far bank looking for an answer to her predicament.  Finally, as she stood on a rock projecting into the stream, another urging from SPHP seemed to embolden her.  She went back to the bank, then waded into the cold water.  She had to swim, but only a little bit.  Lupe made it across.

SPHP had rewarded Loop with pieces of the last chocolate coconut Cliff bar after she’d crossed Tayo Creek, and again after she’d crossed the creek from Coon Lake.  Lupe looked at SPHP expectantly.

Guess, I knew all along you’d get most of this Cliff bar.  Here you go, Loop.

I earned it!

Yes, I know.  You did great, Looper.

Lupe wouldn’t face another major stream crossing for a long way now.  The next landmark she would go by would be Poison Lake, about a mile to the NE.  Lupe had a fantastic time in the forest, staying well S of Tayo Creek.  The Carolina Dog displayed great energy and enthusiasm, crossing many minor streams and numerous big bogs.  She frolicked and cooled off on snowbanks melting away in the soggy forest.  She was back in prime squirrel territory, and spent much of her time barking happily.

Going around the SE end of Poison Lake, Lupe returned to the rock platform overlooking the lake she’d been to before on the way up.  The sun was almost directly overhead.  Time for another break.  Lupe and SPHP sat together with a view of Wind River Peak far beyond Poison Lake.  What little was left of the chocolate coconut Cliff bar met its doom.

Lupe at the edge of the rock platform overlooking Poison Lake. Wind River Peak (R) is in view in the distance.

Beyond Poison Lake, Lupe continued following the Tayo River downstream.  She didn’t stay as close to it as she had on the way up, since she didn’t need to find a way across.  She did see one of the two waterfalls she’d discovered on the way up, but whether it was the upper or lower falls, SPHP didn’t remember.

Lupe had a wonderful time in the forest, but she finally reached Lower Tayo Park again and came to the Middle Popo Agie River.  She forded it at the S end of Lower Tayo Park just as she’d done before.

Lupe reaches the Middle Popo Agie River again at the S end of Lower Tayo Park. This was where she’d started her successful divide and conquer strategy two days ago that enabled her to get to Tayo Lake and Wind River Peak. Photo looks W.
Fording the Middle Popo Agie River at the S end of Lower Tayo Park. Photo looks SW.
Looking NW across Lower Tayo Park. Tayo Creek emerges from the forest across the valley to join the Middle Popo Agie River here. Photo looks NW.

Lupe had finally made it back to a trail!  SPHP was curious to see what conditions were like now back at the ford where Trail No. 707 crosses the Middle Popo Agie River below its confluence with Tayo Creek.  The situation really hadn’t changed much at all.  The ford was still as badly flooded as it was before.

Lupe returned to Middle Fork Trail No. 700, and followed it NE downstream along the Middle Popo Agie River.  She was getting close to the junction with Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 when a backpacker appeared ahead.  He was the first person Lupe and SPHP had seen in 75 hours – more than 3 days.

The backpacker was from Flagstaff, Arizona.  He said he was on his way to Tayo Lake, but had nearly turned back at the Stough Creek ford.  SPHP explained the situation he would soon face at the flooded ford in Lower Tayo Park, and also described how Lupe had bushwhacked all the way to Tayo Lake and Wind River Peak.

Lupe by the Middle Popo Agie River. The trail junction where she would leave it to head for Stough Creek was nearby. Photo looks NNE.

The backpacker went on.  Lupe would never know if he made it to Tayo Lake using her bushwhacking route or not.  She soon left the Middle Popo Agie River on Trail No. 704 to Stough Creek.

Until now, Lupe had been going downhill nearly all day long.  Now she had to climb.  The American Dingo did great.  She still had plenty of energy to run around looking for squirrels in the forest.  SPHP felt played out, though.  Going uphill was tough.  At least a lot of snow had melted since Lupe had last been here, so it was easier to follow the trail.

Lupe reached the ford at Stough Creek.  The situation had not changed from 3 days ago.  SPHP still didn’t like the looks of it.  Stough Creek was too fast, deep and scary!  SPHP was going to have Lupe cross a little upstream of the ford again, then remembered the bridge over Stough Creek near the next trail intersection higher up.  Maybe Lupe could just bushwhack up to that bridge?

Loop abandoned the trail for the final bushwhacking session of her Wind River Peak adventure.  She hadn’t gone far when she came to a sizable tributary of Stough Creek.  Loop forded this lesser creek, and entered a lovely green field that proved to be sopping wet.  Another bog!  She traipsed across it, and a second one, too, before finally reaching the forest and dry land on the other side.

The off-trail climb through the forest was steep.  Lupe came to another major tributary of Stough Creek.  It was all whitewater where Lupe reached it.

Lupe reaches a 2nd major tributary of Stough Creek trying to bushwhack up to a bridge.

Lupe followed the tributary upstream to where the terrain leveled out.  Here she could ford the tributary without much of a problem.  Shortly after crossing the tributary, she found a trail.  Lupe followed the trail N. Within 300 feet she arrived at the bridge over Stough Creek.  Yes!

Lupe on the bridge over Stough Creek. Bridges were a rare luxury on Lupe’s journey to Wind River Peak and back. Photo looks N.

Lupe had finally reached Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702.  It would take her the rest of the way back to the Worthen Meadow trailhead, still a good 5 miles away.  Only one major creek crossing remained, Roaring Fork Creek which would come near the end.  Onward!

On Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702. This trail would take Lupe all the way back to the Worthen Meadow trailhead.

The Carolina Dog was now in a nearly level part of the forest.  She soon came to the area where stagnant yellow and orange ponds were scattered among the trees.  Up until now, the mosquitoes hadn’t been bad, but here they were terrible.

The climb back up to the high saddle N of High Point 10965 where Lupe had first seen Wind River Peak on her way in was torturous for SPHP, who was nearly exhausted by now.  The plucky American Dingo was unfazed.  Mosquitoes drove SPHP on.  Even when Lupe reached the high saddle, they were bad enough to prevent any long delay.  Lupe and SPHP did pause for a few moments, though, to gaze upon the grandeur of Wind River Peak for a final time.

A last look back at Wind River Peak from the high saddle. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

It was still 3 miles back to the Worthen Meadow trailhead from the high saddle. Nearly all of it was downhill, which helped SPHP a great deal.  The constant whine of mosquitoes was maddening, but all the Deet was long gone.  Lupe busied herself looking for squirrels in the forest.  Rest assured American Dingoes never tire of this sport.

Another squirrel spotted! What could be more fun?

At long last, the final ford over Roaring Fork Creek next to Roaring Fork Lake appeared.  Lupe ran down to the stream and plunked herself down in the water to cool off.

Lupe cools off in Roaring Fork Creek. This was the final stream ford of Lupe’s 4 day Wind River Peak adventure. Photo looks SE.

Roaring Fork Creek didn’t look any different than it had 3 days ago.  The water was just as high as before.  No matter.  In a cloud of mosquitoes, SPHP prepared to cross, then simply went for it.

This time, SPHP stayed upstream of the big rock.  The water wasn’t mid-thigh deep here like it was downstream of the rock, but was still several inches over the knee.  The even gravelly bottom and gentle current made this ford seem trivial now after all the streams and rivers Lupe had crossed on the way to Wind River Peak and back.

Lupe hadn’t come, though.  The water was over her head for a long way.  SPHP tried coaxing her from the opposite bank, but without the aid of the enticing chocolate coconut Cliff bar, Lupe stayed put.  Seeing further entreaties were futile, SPHP dumped the backpack and waded back into the stream.

As soon as Lupe saw help was on the way, she plunged into Roaring Fork Creek and started swimming toward SPHP.  She remembered being on the big rock SPHP had put her on before midstream and swam to it.  However, the rock was steep where she reached it.  She tried, but Lupe couldn’t get up on it by herself.  The current carried her out of sight behind the rock.

Lupe didn’t reappear downstream.  What was happening?  No doubt she was still striving to get up on the rock, but SPHP couldn’t see her.  Before SPHP could get there, Loop grew fearful and gave up.  Suddenly she was in view again heading back to shore.  SPHP continued over to get her.

SPHP picked the cold, drenched Carolina Dog up, and carried the grateful, dripping Dingo across Roaring Fork Creek.  Lupe’s last adventure of her 4 day journey to Wind River Peak was over.

At Worthen Meadow Reservoir, Lupe lost no time hopping into the G6 (9:00 PM).  She curled up on her pillows and blankets, licked herself clean, and devoured an entire can of Alpo.  She still had room for a McDonald’s cheeseburger in Lander an hour later.  The night time scene at Lander City Park was astonishing.  The place was absolutely packed with tents and RV’s.

SPHP took the last parking spot available.  It was right beneath a bright streetlight.  For some strange reason the streetlight cycled on and off at 30 second intervals.  After Lupe’s long march all the way from Tayo Lake, it was only a minor annoyance.  Lupe and SPHP were both fast asleep, dead to the world, still dreaming of fabulous Wind River Peak.

Wind River Peak, Wyoming 7-12-17

Related Links:

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 1: Worthen Meadow to Tayo Park (7-8-17 & 7-9-17)

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 2: Divide & Conquer – Tayo Park to Tayo Lake (7-10-17)

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 3: Tayo Lake to the Summit (7-11-17)

You might also like:

Next Adventure

Big Sandy to Jackass Pass & Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range, WY (9-1-15)

Cirque of the Towers, Lonesome Lake, Skunk Knob & Jackass Pass, Wind River Range, WY (9-2-15)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.