Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 135 – Peak 6820 & Crooks Tower (6-27-15)

Lupe started Expedition No. 135 on USFS Road No. 259.2A about 0.25 mile W of Nahant Road.  Nahant Road leaves the W side of paved County Road No. 17 about 5 miles N of Rochford in the west central Black Hills of South Dakota.  Both Nahant Road and USFS Road No. 259.2A are marked.  No. 259.2A leaves Nahant Road about 0.5 mile S of County Road No. 17.  There is a small corral near the intersection and two barbed wire gates to go through to gain access to No. 259.2A.

After the traumatic finish to Expedition No. 134 a week earlier, Lupe had been reluctant to even take her nightly walks for a few days.  When no more lightning, thunder and hail storms made an appearance, towards the middle of the week Lupe regained her confidence and enthusiasm for the outdoors.  Although the forecast was for the mid-80’s in the lower Black Hills, Saturday was supposed to be clear weather all day long.  SPHP thought Lupe might be ready for another expedition in the higher western Black Hills, where it should at least be a bit cooler out.

Early Saturday morning, Lupe expressed great enthusiasm for “hiking in the mountains”.  She was eager to go.  Soon Lupe and SPHP were in the G6 and underway.  It was a very pleasant 60°F when SPHP parked the G6 at 8:29 AM along USFS Road No. 259.2A just 0.25 mile W of Nahant Road.  Lupe and SPHP have been here before on at least a couple of prior expeditions, so it was familiar territory.   SPHP’s plan was to let Lupe enjoy a romp along Tillson Creek in Swede Gulch and then do some peakbagging with Peak 6820 and Crooks Tower (7,137 ft.) as goals.

Before too long, USFS Road No. 259.2A basically comes to a dead end where the road reaches Tillson Creek in Swede Gulch.  A remnant of the road continues on upstream, but is in poor to non-existent condition in a lot of places.  Many pine bark beetle-killed trees have fallen across the route.  The main problem this morning though, was that there was a lot of marshy, mucky wet ground.  (The Black Hills have received nearly 3 times their normal rainfall for the month of June in 2015!)  Getting around the soft areas meant frequent detours into the forest up on the sides of the valley and picking a way through the deadfall timber.

Lupe near Tillson Creek in lower Swede Gulch. Lupe traveled upstream on Expedition No. 135.

Lupe had fun in Tillson Creek and exploring around Swede Gulch, but Lupe and SPHP weren’t making great time.  It didn’t really matter.  Despite being a very busy dingo, Lupe has no deadlines to meet.  SPHP was really hoping Lupe would get as far as Crooks Tower though, before it got too late in the day.

About 2 miles from the end of the good road, Lupe reached the confluence of Tillson Creek and a good-sized tributary coming in from the W.  Shortly after passing the confluence, it became necessary to cross Tillson Creek.  While on past occasions, SPHP had always managed to cross Tillson Creek without getting wet boots, this time there was so much flow in the creek nothing could be done except to just wade right in and ford it.

Lupe cools off in Tillson Creek just below the confluence of Tillson and a major tributary coming in from the W. Although hidden by the grass, the main flow of Tillson Creek is coming in from the right side of this photo looking W.
Lupe cools off in Tillson Creek just below the confluence of Tillson and a major tributary coming in from the W. Although hidden by the grass, the main flow of Tillson Creek is coming in from the right side of this photo looking W.

The creek had to be forded several more times as Lupe progressed up Swede Gulch.  Lupe loved the fords, and frequently waded into Tillson Creek to cool off and drink even where it wasn’t necessary.  SPHP was now resigned to marching soggily along in wet boots.  SPHP splashed right on into Tillson Creek at each ford without hesitation.

Tillson Creek is smaller by the time it gets here. This photo looks NNW up Hallorans Draw. The main flow of Tillson Creek comes from a valley to the W (L side) of this photo.
With all the recent rains (8.40″ so far in June), Lupe found a little temporary waterfall on the N side of Swede Gulch. It will probably be gone in a very short period of time, but was fun to see.

Eventually Lupe heard a great deal of mooing going on up ahead.  Where USFS Road No. 234 crosses Tillson Creek, there was a herd of cattle out on the road.  Beyond the road is some private land, but these cattle were outside of the fence in the Black Hills National Forest.  This is not uncommon as grazing permits are available in the national forest.  Lupe and SPHP took a little break near No. 234, while the cattle decided maybe it would be best to mosey on along, since they preferred their own company to that of dingoes.

Lupe and SPHP left Tillson Creek and headed S on No. 234, which started climbing the hillside.  After a bit, the road leveled out and then curved SW.  A high point became visible ahead.  SPHP stopped to check the maps and give Lupe a little water and Taste of the Wild.  Lupe rested in the shade of a spruce tree and snapped at flies.

The topo map SPHP had printed out from Peakbagger.com showed that Peak 6820 was about 1 mile due W of Lupe’s location.  A draw heading WNW would be the least steep approach.  Lupe could curve back to the SW for the last little bit of the climb.  Lupe and SPHP backtracked just a little bit to go through a gate up into the draw.  There was a faint remnant of a road heading up the draw.  Lupe and SPHP followed it.  SPHP repeatedly lost the remnant road and then found what looked like what might be it again.

Lupe started seeing these striking flowers scattered in open areas in the woods on the E slopes of Peak 6820.
Lupe started seeing these striking flowers scattered in open areas in the woods on the E slopes of Peak 6820.

The plan worked.  Lupe and SPHP had been to Peak 6820 once before, back on Expedition No. 99 on 10-08-14.  Arriving on flat terrain that seemed to be the top of the mountain, SPHP recognized a particular mud puddle toward the W end of the summit area.  Lupe happily went over to lay down in it and have a drink of mineral water.  A cool, wet, muddy dingo is a happy dingo!

Lupe enjoys her mud puddle on top of Peak 6820.
Lupe enjoys her mud puddle on top of Peak 6820.

Although a high point, Peak 6820 is all forested and there aren’t really any decent views, since they are blocked by all the trees.  The top of the mountain is very flat.  There is a fairly large summit area rather than any discernable peak or highest point.  Lupe and SPHP explored around for just a few minutes before SPHP was satisfied there really wasn’t much more to be done up here.  Then it was time to continue on to Crooks Tower where the views would be better.

Lupe on the summit of Peak 6820. The summit area is pretty large and flat. There is no discernable definite highest point. The views look pretty similar in every direction due to the forest.

Lupe and SPHP went back to the mud puddle and then down an old road heading SW from the W end of the summit area of Peak 6820.  The first time Lupe had climbed Peak 6820, she had come up this road.  SPHP remembered it as being pretty choked with deadfall timber along most of its length near the top.  Things really hadn’t changed.  It still was.  Lupe and SPHP were off the road more than on it.

SPHP was hoping to find again a strange little area in the saddle between Peak 6820 and a ridge to the SW.  Lupe had found it on Expedition No. 99.  There was a big water tank and a tall deteriorating wooden tower, plus a nearby opening in the forest completely fenced in and covered by metal sheeting just 6″ off the ground.  SPHP thought the metal sheeting might serve as a safety cover for a large open mine shaft, but wasn’t sure.  In any case, Lupe didn’t find it again this time.  SPHP wasn’t sure it was worth spending extra time looking for it either.  If the metal sheeting did cover a mine shaft, it might just be best for Lupe to stay away from it.

The strange wooden tower and water tank Lupe found on Expedition No. 99 on 10-8-14. Lupe did not find it again on Expedition No. 135.
This photo from Expedition No. 99 shows the sheet metal cover on the ground Lupe found SW of Peak 6820 on 10-8-14.
This photo from Expedition No. 99 shows the sheet metal cover on the ground Lupe found SW of Peak 6820 on 10-8-14.

Lupe and SPHP crossed the saddle area and climbed a ridge SW of Peak 6820.  Lupe headed W along the ridge and came to a high spot.  Lupe’s immediate goal was to get to South Rapid Creek Road (USFS Road No. 231).  The terrain seemed to push Lupe and SPHP farther N than SPHP really wanted to go despite crossing a couple of ridges.  SPHP didn’t want to go too far S either.  The topo map showed some pretty steep terrain and even small cliffs to the S.  With no views and no roads or paths to follow, it was hard to know just where Lupe would come out.

Lupe stands near a collection of the pretty orange flowers. This was the biggest group of them Lupe found all in one spot.
Lupe stands near a collection of the pretty orange flowers. This was the biggest group of them Lupe found all in one spot.

It took quite a while, but Lupe eventually emerged from the forest just E of the intersection of USFS Road No. 231 and Besant Park Road (No. 206).  Lupe had been here quite a few times before.  From the intersection, Lupe and SPHP headed S near the edge of the forest W of No. 231.  The grass was so tall in the big meadow, Lupe had a hard time seeing over it.  She bounded along to see where she was going.  The meadow eventually narrowed.  Lupe and SPHP walked on No. 231 for the last part of the distance to USFS Road No. 631.1.

The start of No. 631.1 was the low elevation point on Lupe’s journey from Peak 6280 to Crooks Tower.  From here on, the rest of the way was up, although mostly at a moderate pace.  Lupe went W up No. 631.1 until reaching No. 631.1B.  She followed No. 631.1B NW up a side gully, but after gaining some elevation left the road to travel W through the forest.  Loggers had stacked a big pile of tree trunks up near the top of the ridge.  Once there, Lupe followed the logging trail heading generally WSW.  The logging trail was pretty flat and easy, but gained a little elevation as it went along.

Perhaps a mile or less N of Crooks Tower is a flat ridge that extends out to the WNW.  At the end of the ridge from some small cliffs is a very nice overlook with good views off to the NW.  Lupe has been to this viewpoint on several occasions before.  As SPHP expected, the logging trail passed just to the SE of this ridge and Lupe was able to trot on over to the WNW for another look.

Lupe at the end of the overlook located about a mile N of Crooks Tower. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe and SPHP took a break in the shade of a small tree at the end of the ridge.  Lupe had a bit more Taste of the Wild.  Both Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the views.  Miles off to the NW was a high ridge which might be Cement Ridge.  Far off to the N a sharper peak stuck up above the rest of the Black Hills.  This might be Crow Peak W of Spearfish.  SPHP wasn’t certain in either case.

Lupe went back to the logging road and followed it S a short distance farther.  The logging road started turning to the W and losing elevation.  Lupe left it before it lost any elevation and continued S through the forest.  At times there were remnants of roads to follow, and at other times there weren’t.  Crooks Tower could sometimes be seen ahead at openings in the forest.  It was now only a couple hundred feet higher than where Lupe was.  Lupe came to a road, which was probably USFS Road No. 189.4F.  She crossed it continuing S.

As Lupe got closer to Crooks Tower, the terrain became steeper.  Lupe and SPHP worked their way on up the forested slope.  Upon gaining the top of the ridgeline, Lupe followed the ridge SE still gaining elevation.  When SPHP saw some 15 foot tall limestone outcroppings ahead, SPHP thought Lupe was practically at the summit.  Lupe skirted around the W side of the outcroppings and found an easy way to the top.  Nothing was familiar to SPHP.  This wasn’t the true summit of Crooks Tower.

The question was, since this wasn’t it, where was it?  It couldn’t be too far away, but there were no views through the forest.  Lupe was either too far E or too far W.  SPHP decided to head SW hoping to find USFS Road No. 189.4A, which passes just S of the summit of Crooks Tower.  (You can practically drive to the summit of Crooks Tower, if you want to.  USFS Road No. 189.4A comes in from the W.)  Within just a minute or two, SPHP knew where Lupe was.  She was just NE of Crooks Tower.

A platform of limestone about 20 feet high forms the summit of Crooks Tower.  A path leads to the top from the W side.  Lupe headed around the S side of the summit passing a couple with two young children picnicking in the shade of a spruce tree below the summit.  In just a few minutes Lupe was at the top of Crooks Tower.  She had completed both her peakbagging goals of the day!

Lupe on Crooks Tower. Photo looks SE toward Harney Peak in the distance.
Lupe on Crooks Tower. Photo looks SE toward Harney Peak barely seen as a faint blue line in the distance above Lupe’s head.

A forested ridge nearly as high as Crooks Tower itself lies not far away to the E.  (Lupe had initially climbed up to the N end of this ridge.)  The ridge blocks any views farther to the E.  Similarly, to the W the forest blocks any views in that direction where the land is nearly as high as Crooks Tower.  There are nice views to the N, though, and even better views to the S.  Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) can be seen in the distance to the SE.

Crooks Tower (7,137 ft.) is the highest point in Lawrence County, SD, and the 4th highest ranked peak in the Black Hills of South Dakota on Peakbagger.com.  [Green Mountain (7,164) feet is actually the 4th highest point, but unranked since it lacks the required 280 feet of prominence.  Lupe had been to Green Mountain twice just a week ago on Expedition No. 134.]

Lupe on Crooks Tower. This photo looks NW.
Lupe on Crooks Tower. This photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP stayed up on Crooks Tower for a little while.  SPHP ate a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.  Lupe helped out with the sandwich and had some Taste of the Wild, too.  The young couple left with their children in tow heading W on USFS Road No. 189.4A.  Soon SPHP heard their vehicle start up and move away.  Lupe and SPHP had Crooks Tower to themselves.  The sun was still high in the sky.  While there were still some hours of daylight left, SPHP knew most of the day had already shot on by.  It was a long way back to the G6.  Lupe couldn’t stay up on Crooks Tower too long.

Lupe on the tippy top of Crooks Tower 6-27-15

SPHP thought it was unwise to try to head back to the G6 the same way Lupe had come to Crooks Tower.  It was going to get dark long before Lupe could be back.  SPHP did not like the idea of trying to go back down Swede Gulch through all the mud and deadfall timber in the dark.  Instead, Lupe would go down Trebor Draw to South Rapid Creek Road.  Lupe could follow South Rapid Creek Road SE past the turn for Black Fox Campground, and then miles more to the E until reaching USFS Road No. 259.  No. 259 would take Lupe N through Telegraph Gulch a few miles to Nahant and the G6.

At first, it all went fine.  Lupe left Crooks Tower following No. 189.4A around the S end of the ridge to the E.  E of the ridge, it headed N for longer than SPHP had remembered, but finally did turn SE winding steeply down the mountain to No. 631.2.  A short jog to the S on No. 631.2 brought Lupe to a virtually abandoned USFS road (signed as an administrative road only) at Trebor Draw.  Lupe and SPHP headed NE down into Trebor Draw.

Trebor Draw was in the shade of the mountain.  The grass was thick, tall and green.  Lupe could not see over it, so it was like a complete jungle to her.  The administrative road went on for some distance, then faded to a single track before disappearing altogether.  The valley narrowed and led into a thick forest to the E.  Lupe had been here once before, but that time SPHP had not taken her through the forest, instead leading her up over the high ridge to the N.

South Rapid Creek Road was to the E.  This time Lupe had to continue on down Trebor Draw through the dense forest.  At least it couldn’t be much more than 0.5 mile further to the road.  The going was very slow.  A lot of deadfall timber had fallen down into the narrow valley.  It was bad, but Lupe and SPHP have dealt with worse.  Lupe steadily made progress down Trebor Gulch.  A very narrow cow trail appeared.  (What cows would have been doing in this mess, SPHP had no clue, but the trail was there with an occasional cow pie to prove it.)  Lupe was able to run along the cow trail.

SPHP saw the danger just before tragedy struck.  An old barbed wire fence had fallen over the trail.  Five strands of barbed wire lay in wait for Lupe who raced right into them.  SPHP called out to Lupe and heard her hit the fence.  A moment later SPHP saw Lupe standing on the trail.  The barbed wire had cut a big bloody gash across the whole front of her left front leg.  Her fur was hanging open to reveal the bare flesh beneath the skin.  SPHP was horrified.

Lupe on South Rapid Creek Road (USFS No. 231) with a nasty gash from a fallen barbed wire fence in nearby Trebor Gulch. The heroic dingo partly walked and was partly carried by SPHP to Black Fox campground to find help.

Fortunately, the barbed wire had only just nicked the muscle beneath the fur.  At first Lupe didn’t even seem to realize anything really bad had happened.  She could still walk, even run.  It wasn’t bleeding much, but it looked ghastly and had to hurt.  Quickly SPHP dug through the whole backpack.  Matches, plastic bags, flashlight, extra batteries, gloves, hat, sunscreen, gloves, toilet paper and a plastic raincoat were all there.  But not the little first aid kit.  Major mistake!  It had been a long time since SPHP had even thought about checking on the first aid kit.  No telling now how long it had not been in the pack.  Probably removed and forgotten during a cleaning months ago.  The kit wouldn’t have had much to treat such a large wound in any case.

Lupe needed to get to a veterinarian and soon.  SPHP picked her up and started to carry her.  It was hard on the uneven ground with obstacles.  SPHP carried her part of the time and she walked part of the time.  Fortunately, within 10 minutes or so, Lupe reached South Rapid Creek Road.  As much as possible, SPHP carried Lupe, but she walked as much as she was carried and probably more.  She occasionally seemed to realize something was wrong with her bloody leg and would pause to lick it.  SPHP stopped her from doing that.  She must not have felt too horrible.  She still sometimes wanted to run off into the forest, or up a hillside off the road to bark at a squirrel.  SPHP didn’t permit that either.

Black Fox Campground was about 2 miles from where Lupe reached South Rapid Creek Road.  It really didn’t take too long to get there, but it seemed endless to SPHP.  Fortunately there were people camping at Black Fox.  SPHP asked for help for Lupe.  Four people with two dogs (Achilles and Lily – naturally SPHP has forgotten the kind people’s names) had a first aid kit.  Lupe got a generous dose of antibacterial gel.  Then her leg was wrapped with a gauze bandage and taped up.  Another kind man named Jim, who lives in the Wonderland Homes subdivision near Black Hawk and Piedmont, SD gave Lupe and SPHP a ride in his Ford pickup truck all the way back to the G6.

Lupe liked Jim’s Ford pickup.  She didn’t want to get out.  Maybe she was just afraid SPHP was going to make her walk some more.  SPHP thanked Jim for the ride, gathered Lupe up and got her in the G6 as fast as possible.  It was 8:30 PM.  Without Jim’s help it would have been well after midnight before Lupe could have gotten back to the G6, even if she had been totally well.

Somewhere around 10:00 PM, SPHP brought Lupe into the Animal Clinic of Rapid City, also known as the Emergency Veterinarian Hospital.  The Emergency Veterinarian Hospital has a veterinarian on duty 24/7.  Even though it was late on a Saturday night, lead emergency veterinarian Dr. Erin Brown was on duty.  Soon Lupe was being anesthetized in preparation for stitches.  Dr. Brown stitched Lupe’s leg up and put a drain in to help prevent serious infection.  An hour after disappearing into the operating room, Lupe walked back to SPHP.  There were tears in her eyes, but she was smiling.

Lupe's wounded front leg the morning after lead emergency veterinarian Dr. Erin Brown stitched it up. The plastic is a drain to help prevent a serious infection.
Lupe’s wounded front leg the morning after lead emergency veterinarian Dr. Erin Brown stitched it up. The plastic is a drain to help prevent a serious infection. 6-28-15
Wounded dingo the morning after when it still really hurt. Thank you Dr. Erin Brown for your skillful and timely help late on a Saturday night!
Heroic dingo Lupe struggles to survive! Somehow Dr. Brown forgot to mention treats and vanilla ice cream as a pain killer and antibiotic delivery system, but SPHP took care of it. Lupe was certain treats had to be part of any decent "treat"ment plan.
Heroic dingo Lupe struggles to survive! Somehow Dr. Brown forgot to mention treats and vanilla ice cream as a pain killer and antibiotic delivery system, but SPHP took care of it. Lupe was certain treats had to be part of any decent “treat”ment plan.  6-28-15

Many thanks to Jim and the other good people who helped Lupe at Black Fox campground, and especially to veterinarian Dr. Erin Brown.  Lupe is going to be OK!  She is on pain medication and antibiotics, but less than 48 hours after seeing Dr. Brown, she is back to running around and barking at the garbage truck, recycling truck and Lupe’s long-suffering mailman.

There will be no more new Black Hills, SD Expeditions until Lupe is fully healed up (and a new much beefed up first aid kit is in SPHP’s pack).  While Lupe recuperates, The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe will continue in July with new posts on some of her previously unpublished prior adventures in the Canadian Rockies, Beartooth Mountains and Bighorn Mountains.

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Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada (7-19-14)

The trailhead for the hike to Rawson Lake is at the far SE corner of Upper Kananaskis Lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada.  There is a large paved parking area next to the trailhead and a picnic ground there next to the Upper Kananaskis Lake.  Elevation gain to reach Rawson Lake is approximately 918 feet or 279 meters.

After a very long and wonderful day hike from Upper Kananaskis Lake to the Turbine Campground along the Maude-Lawson Trail the previous day, Lupe and SPHP got off to a very slow start this morning.  The wind was gusting across Upper Kananaskis Lake creating whitecaps, and it was much cooler than the previous day.  There were occasional rain showers.  The air was clear of the smoky haze that had been present the day before.  It was Saturday and throngs of people were arriving despite the wet weather.

Lupe and SPHP had a very late breakfast.  SPHP repacked and rearranged the gear in the G6.  The wind and rains continued.  Lots of people in rain gear came and went.  SPHP was kind of spent after the long trek to Turbine Campground and felt lethargic.  Lupe was fine with a lazy day too.  Lupe and SPHP dozed in the G6 for hours.  It was late afternoon by the time SPHP woke up again.  The parking lot had been full earlier, but was now emptying out fast.  The rain had stopped, although it was still quite breezy by Upper Kananaskis Lake.

Finally SPHP was ready for action again.  There was plenty of time for Lupe to take the trail to Rawson Lake!  Lupe and SPHP started heading W on the circuit trail around Upper Kananaskis Lake from the SE corner of the lake.  Two days before, when Lupe had first arrived at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Lupe and SPHP had gone as far as the waterfall on Sarrail Creek on this same trail. This time Lupe and SPHP carefully crossed the wet three log “bridge” across the creek and went onward.

Soon after crossing Sarrail Creek, Lupe reached the junction with the Rawson Lake trail, which was 1.4 km from the parking lot.  The trail along Upper Kananaskis Lake had been very easy with little elevation change.  The 2.7 km Rawson Lake trail, however, climbed steadily nearly all the way to Rawson Lake.  Until Lupe was halfway up the Rawson Lake trail, there was a steady stream of hikers coming back down from Rawson Lake.  After halfway though, Lupe met no one.

One group of hikers told SPHP that there had been over 100 people up at Rawson Lake when they’d first arrived there.  Many people had been fishing.  Nearly all of them reported catching cutthroat trout.  It was all catch and release, and the fish were pretty small.  The most interesting report was from three guys who said they had seen two grizzly bears at Rawson Lake. One of the grizzlies got within 20 feet of them before passing on by. One of the guys said it was the first time he had ever released the safety latch on his bear spray.

Lupe on the log at Rawson Lake.
Lupe on the log at Rawson Lake.

When Lupe arrived at Rawson Lake no one was there.  SPHP couldn’t help but smile at the thought of all the people who had come earlier in the day when the weather was worse and had to contend with crowds.  SPHP sat on a log by the shore of Rawson Lake.  Lupe rested next to the log and sometimes got up on the log with SPHP.  Lupe and SPHP watched fish jumping in the lake and listened to birds singing.  No grizzly bears were in sight.  The lake was calm, protected from the wind by Mount Sarrail (10,413 ft.).  SPHP shared a Cliff bar with Lupe.

Lupe next to the log at Rawson Lake. She looks sleepy here, but she was just relaxed. On the way back the were-puppy suddenly attacked SPHP twice!
Lupe next to the log at Rawson Lake. She looks sleepy here, but she was just relaxed. On the way back a very energetic were-puppy suddenly attacked SPHP twice!
Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta Canada. The mountain is Mount Sarrail.
Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta Canada 7-19-14. The mountain is Mount Sarrail.

After 30+ peaceful minutes of unbroken solitude at tranquil Rawson Lake, Lupe and SPHP left and headed back down the trail.  The were-puppy attacked SPHP a couple of times not far from Rawson Lake, and nearly knocked SPHP down once.  Lupe was having a great time!  Lupe and SPHP saw no one until nearly back to the parking lot.  Upon reaching the parking lot, SPHP ditched the backpack in the G6 and got a drink.  Then Lupe and SPHP went back to a bench along the trail not far from the parking lot which had a view of Upper Kananaskis Lake.

Another day ended with a gray sunset at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada. 7-19-14
Another day ended with a gray sunset at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada. 7-19-14

Together Lupe and SPHP sat on the bench, listened to the waves on the shore, and watched the sun disappear behind the clouds and mountains.  A cool breeze was blowing from off the lake.  SPHP wrote and drank the drink.  The hoped for colorful sunset never materialized.  Instead everything just faded to gray.  SPHP stayed there talking to and petting an appreciative Lupe until the growing darkness indicated it was time to head back to the G6.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 134 – Copper, Odakota, Green & Hat Mountains Plus the Dragon Caves (6-20-15)

It’s getting to that time of year when Lupe’s expeditions into the Black Hills usually stop for the summer.  The weather just gets too warm for a long day’s march in the hills to be much fun.  Usually the mud puddles have dried up by now, and the little seasonal creeks and streams are starting to dry up too.  SPHP has a hard time carrying enough water to satisfy a hot, thirsty American dingo.

So far this June though, temperatures have been pretty mild.  Rainfall has been way above normal, so there are still lots of mud puddles.  All the creeks and streams are looking good.  With a still reasonably tolerable high temperature forecast in the lower hills just in the low 80’s, this day was still going to be pretty nice in the higher hills.  Lupe could continue her peakbagging along the E edge of the limestone plateau country of the western hills.

SPHP parked the G6 at 7:49 AM along USFS Road No. 301.1A just off No. 301 at the exact same spot as on Expedition No. 132 two weeks earlier.  It was a beautiful 59°F, with completely clear blue skies and a light N breeze.  Since they were so close, Expedition No. 134 was going to start the same way as Expedition No. 132, with ascents of Copper and then Odakota Mountains.

Lupe on the SE cliffs of Copper Mountain. Harney Peak is the highest point in the distance. Medicine Mountain is at the right edge. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe on the SE cliffs of Copper Mountain. Harney Peak is the highest point in the distance. Medicine Mountain is at the right edge. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe on the flat top of Copper Mountain.
Lupe on the flat top of Copper Mountain.
The first of many water holes, mud puddles and streams made use of by Lupe. This one is on the W side of Copper Mountain.
The first of many water holes, mud puddles and streams made use of by Lupe. This one is on the W side of Copper Mountain.
Green Mountain is the high point on the right. Photo looks NNW from USFS Road No. 301.

The views were great from the SE end of Copper Mountain (6,920 ft.).  Lupe and SPHP stopped here for a little while for SPHP to goop up with sunscreen (the first of 3 goopings on this sunny day) while appreciating the bright morning views.  The stop at the summit of Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) was shorter, just long enough for a photo of Lupe at the summit cairn.  Lupe and SPHP weren’t going to trek all the way to the SE edge of the mountain through all that deadfall timber again like Lupe did on Expedition No. 132.  Instead, Lupe left Odakota Mountain to head for Green Mountain (7,164 ft.).

Odakota Mountain summit cairn.
Odakota Mountain summit cairn.

Lupe headed W from Odakota Mountain crossing USFS Road No. 693 at its high point and continuing on following the ridge line, which had a series of small rock escarpments along it.  There was a fair amount of deadfall timber around, but not so much as to seriously impede progress.  More annoying was the barbed wire fence which followed along fairly close to the ridge line, too.  No matter which side of the fence Lupe and SPHP got on, it seemed like the terrain soon changed to make the other side of the fence more desirable again.

Lupe and SPHP reached USFS Road No. 301 again just E of No. 301.1R, which goes N up Windmill Draw.  Windmill Draw is a pretty shallow broad valley with open meadows in the middle.  Pines and a few aspens line the sides of the draw.  No. 301.1R stuck to the W side of the draw near the pines.  Beetle-killed deadfall blocked the way fairly frequently, but it was easy to just drop down a bit into the valley to get around it where it was bad.  Pines still standing provided some shade, which was welcome with the sun so high in the sky.

At the upper end of Windmill Draw, No. 301.1R meets up with No. 691.1B (both unmarked here).   Lupe and SPHP took No. 691.1B NE to Green Mountain.  The best views here were from the cliffs at the SE end of the mountain.  There were splendid views of everything from the NE around to the SE and S.  Lupe and SPHP took a break on the cliffs.  Lupe was ready for some Taste of the Wild.  SPHP had the usual apple and split a little granola bar with Lupe.

Looking SE towards Copper Mountain (near center) from Green Mountain.
Looking SE towards Copper Mountain (lower rounded hill near center) from Green Mountain.

Lupe on Green Mountain 6-20-15

Gillette Prairie from Green Mountain. Photo looks E.
Gillette Prairie from Green Mountain. Photo looks E.
Lupe on Green Mountain 6-20-15. Photo looks E.

Lupe’s next peakbagging goal of the day was Hat Mountain (6,779 ft.) over 3 miles to the NW.  Although Hat Mountain is near the limestone plateau country, it is a little different from Copper, Odakota and Green Mountains in that it sits out a little distance from the limestone plateau instead of being along the E edge of the long escarpment.  Lupe and SPHP left Green Mountain exploring to the N of No. 691.1B until the terrain forced a turn to the W to stay on the high ground.  Although SPHP was hoping for views of Hat Mountain, there were none from here that were any good.  There were too many trees.

There was also a substantial amount of deadfall timber to contend with.  Somewhere not too far W of the junction of USFS Roads No. 301.1R and No. 691.1B at the upper N end of Windmill Draw, Lupe and SPHP retreated S to get back on No. 691.1B heading W.  The road was open and the deadfall timber in the forest was just too much to deal with.  Lupe had a long way to go yet on this expedition, and it just took too much time.  When No. 691.1B reached No. 691, Lupe turned N on No. 691.

No. 691 isn’t a major gravel road, but it was in good condition and wide enough so that it didn’t get much shade.  Even though No. 691 lost elevation as Lupe headed N on it, the trek was so sunny and warm that SPHP was soon sweating.  Lupe and SPHP took occasional shade breaks (and a goop break) along the way in the forest just off the road.  SPHP was glad to leave No. 691 to turn W on No. 691.1E (marked as ATV trail No. 6004) just before reaching Heely Creek S of Hat Mountain.  No. 691.1E was a lesser road and much shadier.

Lupe takes a rest break on her way to Hat Mountain.
Pretty girl Lupe takes a rest break on her way to Hat Mountain.  What a lovely dingo!

From No. 691.1E, Hat Mountain, now just a mile to the N, was soon visible through the trees.  SPHP hoped for an easy way down the short, but steep bank through the trees into the meadow near Heely Creek, but finally gave up and just plunged N into the forest full of deadfall to get down to the valley.  Shortly after getting there, it was apparent that no more than a couple hundred yards farther W on No. 691.1E would have brought Lupe and SPHP to an easy side road right on down to a little ford across Heely Creek.  Exploring is like that.

Hat Mountain dead ahead! Lupe in the Heely Creek valley. Photo looks N.

There was a lot of marshy ground along Heely Creek and the easiest crossing point was at the little ford on the side road, so Lupe and SPHP crossed the creek there.  Once across the creek, it was an easy matter to make the trek up Hat Mountain from the S.  Unlike the other mountains Lupe had already climbed earlier in the day, Hat Mountain is not thickly forested and there was no deadfall timber to contend with.

Looking W at the Heely Creek valley S of Hat Mountain.
Looking W at the Heely Creek valley S of Hat Mountain.

The top of Hat Mountain is a flat limestone escarpment.  Without any trees up there, the views were excellent in every direction.  Consequently, Lupe and SPHP dallied up on Hat Mountain quite a while.  Lupe took a generous helping of Taste of the Wild.  The last little granola bar was shared and the last apple disappeared.  There were some beautiful clouds around and some big birds came swooping by for a little while.  The only thing Lupe didn’t like was that the top was so rocky.  It wasn’t terribly comfortable laying down to rest while viewing the scenic display.

Getting there! Lupe nears the summit of Hat Mountain from the S.
Getting there! Lupe nears the summit of Hat Mountain from the S.
The view N from Hat Mountain towards South Castle Rock, Nipple Butte and Flag Mountain where Lupe had been on Expedition No. 133.
The view N from Hat Mountain towards South Castle Rock, Nipple Butte and Flag Mountain (all near the center on the horizon) where Lupe had been on Expedition No. 133.
Deerfield Lake from Hat Mountain. Photo looks N.
The flat summit of Hat Mountain.
The flat summit of Hat Mountain.
A big bird soars over Hat Mountain.
A big bird soars over Hat Mountain.
Looking S from Hat Mountain towards Green Mountain (large ridge at right) and Copper Mountain (lower ridge just left of Green Mountain).
Looking S from Hat Mountain towards Green Mountain (large ridge at right) and Copper Mountain (lower shaded ridge just left of and beyond Green Mountain).
Another look S from Hat Mountain. Green Mountain at very right edge. Copper Mountain beyond it and now in sunlight. Harney Peak toward left side of photo.
Another look S from Hat Mountain. Green Mountain at very right edge. Copper Mountain beyond it and now in sunlight. Harney Peak toward left side of photo.
Looking SW from Hat Mountain towards the limestone plateau country where the Dragon Caves are hidden.
Looking SW from Hat Mountain towards the limestone plateau country where the Dragon Caves are hidden.
Deerfield Lake from Hat Mountain. Photo looks N.
Deerfield Lake from Hat Mountain. Photo looks N.  Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) is the highest point toward the left on the horizon.  Reynolds Prairie is the open ground beyond and to the left of Deerfield Lake.  Only a small portion of the lake is visible from Hat Mountain.

A 50% chance of scattered thunderstorms had been in the forecast for between 1-4 PM.  There were enough clouds around by now so that rain did look like it might develop.  SPHP thought maybe it was time for Lupe to head for the Dragon Caves.  There was probably time to get there before any serious rain developed.  So Lupe left Hat Mountain heading SW.  She rounded the S end of a low ridge down near Heely Creek and then followed the creek to USFS Road No. 291 (Ditch Creek Road).

A look back at Hat Mountain from the SW before Lupe rounded the low ridge near Heely Creek.

Lupe turned S on No. 291, which is a pretty major gravel road.  It is a beautiful drive, but was way busier than SPHP likes for hiking.  Groups of ATV’s roared up and down the road, along with cars and pickup trucks.  Nothing really all that major, but Lupe and SPHP usually go many hours and often the entire day without seeing anyone on Lupe’s expeditions.  Now it was minutes, and not all that many, between traffic events.  Fortunately, it was only 2/3 mile from Heely Creek to the bridge across Ditch Creek that leads to the Dragon Caves.

Lupe refreshed after a dip in Heely Creek.

Lupe crossed the bridge over Ditch Creek and instead of following USFS Road No. 385 to the right, continued straight ahead on an ATV trail up a small hill.  A right turn at an open area leads directly to the Dragon Caves.  The Dragon Caves have three large openings (they have to be large to accommodate dragons) facing S.  Farther back into the caves all three entrances connect.  Imagine a capital letter “E” with the long connecting side running E/W and the three shorter lines pointing S, and you have a good idea of the floor plan and orientation of the Dragon Caves entrances.

Lupe reaches the Dragon Caves. Two of the entrances are seen here. The third is around a little corner to the right.
Lupe reaches the Dragon Caves. Two of the entrances are seen here. The third is around a corner to the right.
Uh, SPHP, you did bring the flashlight didn’t you? Ever consider using it? Maybe you should now.

It was cool inside the Dragon Caves.  And dark.  SPHP got the flashlight with weak batteries out.  The dim light showed the dusty floor well enough to continue in to the area where the entrances are connected.  There is more to the Dragon Caves than just the “E”.  Big side passages and some smaller ones go back into the dark recesses.  Lupe went dragon hunting.  Fortunately for Smaug and any other dragons, they must have had some warning that a Carolina Dog was coming for them.  They had already departed.

I’ve got this exit covered SPHP, see if you can find any dragons over there.
Lupe dragon hunting in the Dragon Caves.
Possessed dingo prepares to face dragons in the Dragon Caves.
American Dingo heroine Lupe arrives at the Dragon Caves too late! The dragons have already fled with all their treasure hoards and damsels in distress.

Unfortunately for Lupe and SPHP, the dragons had evidently had time to pack up their treasure hoards and damsels in distress and depart with the entire bounty.  The only thing left other than dust was a beer can, dropped no doubt by some poor tourist during a dragon encounter with an unhappy ending.  Tourists just don’t know enough to bring a Carolina Dog with them for protection.  It’s not their fault really, they are from somewhere else and unfamiliar with the situation.  SPHP picked up the beer can as the only souvenir of Lupe’s dragon hunting this time around.

Lupe emerged from the Dragon Caves to find that it was sprinkling outside.  Now and then weak pathetic thunder could be heard.  If this was the scattered thunderstorm in the forecast, there was nothing to worry about.  Lupe went back to USFS Road No. 291 and turned S again.  About 1.5 miles farther on Lupe passed Ditch Creek campground, which seemed to be a source of the traffic in the area.  Despite its dreadful name, Ditch Creek campground is one of the nicest and most scenic campgrounds in the Black Hills.  Many of the campsites are right on Ditch Creek, a small clear cold stream that always has decent flow.  Plenty of people were around, but the campground wasn’t yet full.

Approaching Ditch Creek campground from the N.
Approaching Ditch Creek campground from the N.

Lupe wasn’t going to camp.  She pressed on to the S on No. 291.  An ATV trail map back at Ditch Creek campground had shown SPHP that Lupe should watch for ATV trail No. 6008 less than 0.75 mile S of the campground.  It supposedly wound its way E back to USFS Road No. 691.

Pretty soon Lupe reached No. 6008 and made the turn to the E.  No. 6008 was a lovely little road that climbed steadily, but not too steeply.  By the time Lupe turned on to No. 6008, the sun was low on the horizon.  As she climbed on No. 6008, though, the sun just didn’t set.  It always seemed like it was going to, but Lupe kept getting high enough up to keep it in view.

A look back N along USFS Road No. 291 (Ditch Creek Road) shortly before Lupe left it to head E on ATV trail No. 6008.
A look back N along USFS Road No. 291 (Ditch Creek Road) shortly before Lupe left it to head E on ATV trail No. 6008.

No. 6008 went on and on, climbing higher and higher.  Lupe saw a nice herd of 10 elk (the “giant deers”, as Lupe knows them!) disappear into the forest.  There started to be various intersecting ATV trails, all with different numbers.  Where No. 6008 went to, SPHP couldn’t say.  After a while Lupe seemed to be on No. 6010 and still later on No. 6011.  Lupe was on No. 6011 when the road finally reached the high point of the ridge between No. 291 to the W and No. 691 to the E.  Unfortunately, No. 6011 turned S and didn’t look like it was going to complete the trip to No. 691, which couldn’t have been much farther E at this point.

By now the sun was down, but it was still plenty light out to leave No. 6011 in search of No. 691.  Lupe and SPHP headed E and then SE through the forest.  Sure enough, before long Lupe reached No. 691.  SPHP recognized the spot, too.  Lupe was just 100 yards N of where No. 691.1B leaves No. 691 to head for Green Mountain.  SPHP decided it would be fun for Lupe to go tag the summit of Green Mountain again.  It would be nearly dark by the time Lupe got there, but so what?  It was a beautiful evening.

The 2nd ascent of Green Mountain was Lupe’s final peakbagging accomplishment of the day.  The light was fading fast, but Lupe and SPHP were both ready for a rest.  Copper Mountain was visible a couple miles to the SE.  The G6 was a short distance beyond Copper Mountain.  However, with darkness coming on, Lupe and SPHP would have to stick to the roads.  That meant the G6 was still 6 miles away.  After a 10 or 15 minute rest break at the cliffs on Green Mountain, it was time to move on ready or not.

Lupe ascended Green Mountain for a 2nd time this date, reaching it as dusk was coming on.
Lupe ascended Green Mountain for a 2nd time this date, reaching it as dusk was coming on.
Lupe on Green Mountain at nightfall. Still 6 miles by road back to the G6!
Lupe on Green Mountain at nightfall. Still 6 miles by road back to the G6!

The flashlight had to come out as the crescent moon wasn’t going to provide much light.  It was going to set within 2 or 3 hours and was obscured by clouds part of the time anyway.  Lupe and SPHP retraced No. 691.1B going SW to No. 301.1R at the N end of Windmill Draw.  SPHP started S through Windmill Draw on No. 301.1R and somehow got on a dirt track heading down through the meadow in the middle of Windmill Draw.  This was actually better than being on No. 301.1R, since there wasn’t any deadfall timber to contend with.

By the time Lupe reached the main gravel road, No. 301, there was lightning.  There was a little cloud-to-cloud lightning in the thin clouds nearby, but in the distance there was intense lightning in several different directions.  Lupe and SPHP took a rest break, but it didn’t last long.  SPHP heard thunder, still faint, but coming from off to the NW, the likely source of approaching weather.  It was time for Lupe to hurry on.

Lupe and SPHP took several more short rest breaks.  It had been a very long day.  The lightning display grew brighter and more dazzling, though it was still far enough away so only distant thunder could be heard and even that only now and then.  The situation changed after Lupe passed the turnoff for No. 693 to Odakota Mountain and Long Draw, which Lupe did not take.  There started to be clear bolts of cloud-to-ground lightning.  Thunder rumbled ominously.

Lupe wanted SPHP to stop and hide.  She was scared of the lightning.  SPHP wouldn’t let her stop and urged her to find the G6.  Lupe was almost to Copper Mountain and the G6 wasn’t far beyond it.  On the final stretch of road beyond Copper Mountain, the lightning bolts directly to the ground started striking alarmingly close.  The lightning was nearly continuous.  Thunder exploded, echoing in the forest.  When Lupe finally saw the G6, the terrified dingo bolted away from SPHP and ran for it.  When SPHP caught up, she leaped into the G6 as soon as the door was open.

Through all of this, not a drop of rain had fallen.  Within a minute of reaching the G6 though, it began.  First one large drop, then another, then a few more, then a hailstone.  Oddly enough, the terrified dingo regained enormous courage, bolstered by the comforting familiarity and armor of the G6.  Lupe now wanted to stick her head out the window to sniff the air and see what was going on as SPHP drove the gravel roads towards the pavement at Deerfield Road.

The whole head out the window and sniffing bit didn’t last more than a few minutes.  Rain and hail grew stronger.  The wind blew.  Lightning and thunder raged.  The dingo decided to take full advantage of the G6 armor, brought her head back inside the vehicle and curled up on the seat.  On the way home there were two significant weather events.

The first was something Lupe and SPHP had never been in before.  About 5 miles NW of Hill City, SD was a “hailburst” – like a cloudburst, except with hail instead of just rain.  In seconds the road went from having a few hailstones on it to being completely white.  In fact, everything was white.

SPHP had to completely stop the G6 several times right on the highway.  Even with high beams on and windshield wipers on the fastest setting, nothing but a wall of white hailstones streaking down could be seen beyond the hood of the G6.  SPHP could not see any portion of the road or anything else around the G6.  Fortunately, there was no traffic and the hail was not large enough to cause major damage.

The 2nd event occurred later on after a lull in the storm, a cloudburst with just rain and no hail.  Although intense, it seemed like a piece of cake next to the hailburst.

Lupe had reached the G6 at 11:40 PM (53°F), 15 hours and 51 minutes after setting out on Expedition No. 134.  At nearly 16 hours, Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 134 had been the 2nd longest expedition Lupe has ever been on.  It was certainly a memorable one.  Lupe didn’t reach home until after 1 AM.  A very tired and dirty dingo gobbled up some Alpo and then went straight to bed.  Outside the open window, the rain, wind, lightning and thunder continued in the night.

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