Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-13)

The Takakkaw Falls parking lot is at the end of Yoho Valley Road about 14 km from Trans-Canada Hwy 1.  Yoho Valley Road is accessed from Trans-Canada Hwy 1 a few miles NE of the little community of Field along the Kicking Horse River.  Yoho Valley Road is paved, but has a couple of exceptionally sharp hairpin curves.  Taking long vehicles (motorhomes, trailers) up this road is inadvisable.

The morning after Lupe’s big day going from Emerald Lake all the way up to the high point of the Iceline Trail in Yoho National Park, SPHP didn’t have any concrete plans for the day.  SPHP thought maybe Lupe could go check out the Lake O’Hara area.  Neither Lupe nor SPHP had ever been there before, and Lake O’Hara has a fabulous reputation.  There were plenty of trails to explore in the area, too.

After breakfast at a picnic area along the Bow Parkway, Lupe and SPHP headed back into British Columbia on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1.  When Lupe and SPHP left Hwy 1 and got on the road to Lake O’Hara, it ended almost immediately at a couple of large parking lots filled with cars.  A sign said access to was restricted to a shuttle bus ride (none in sight and bound to be expensive) or walking 13+ km (all uphill) to where the shuttle bus drop off point was.   Lupe may have had it in her, but after the previous long day, SPHP did not want to hike uphill that far just to get to a starting point.

Instead, Lupe and SPHP went to Takakkaw Falls.  On the previous day, Lupe and SPHP had spectacular distant views of the falls from the Highline and Iceline trails.

Takakkaw falls from the Iceline Trail the previous day (July 24th).
Takakkaw falls from the Iceline Trail the previous day (July 24th).

This time, Lupe was going to get up close and view the mighty Takakkaw Falls from below.  It was a short walk from the parking lot to a very nice footbridge over the Yoho River.  An easy trail led to the base of the falls.

The great footbridge across the Yoho River leading to Takakkaw Falls.
The great footbridge across the Yoho River leading to Takakkaw Falls.

According to Wikipedia, the highest point of Takakkaw Falls is 302 meters or 991 feet above its base, although there is really only 260 meters or 850 feet of true free-fall.  Now matter how one looks at it, Takakkaw Falls is an impressive waterfall, especially on a hot summer day when the Daly Glacier (an arm of the Waputik Icefield) that feeds it is melting fast.

Lupe below Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park in British Columbia.
Lupe below Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park in British Columbia.

Takakkaw Falls, Yoho NP, 7-25-15

Lupe enjoys the cool mist at the base of Takakkaw Falls on a hot summer day.
Lupe enjoys the cool mist at the base of Takakkaw Falls on a hot summer day.

Lupe and SPHP took the trail up to just below the base of the falls.  The cool mist felt great.  The G6 had said it was 79 degrees F already back at the parking lot.  The clear sunny day was going to be a scorcher by Canadian Rockies standards.

Refreshed by the cool mist, SPHP temporarily felt inspired to take Lupe up the Yoho River valley.  Perhaps Lupe could go up to the Yoho Glacier or climb back up to the fabulous Iceline Trail again by another route?  There were plenty of trails to explore, but they involved a lot of elevation gain.

Although Lupe and SPHP started up the Yoho River valley, it was not to be.  Away from the cooling spray of Takakkaw Falls, SPHP soon started to wilt under the hot sun.  Lupe had the energy and enthusiasm to go on, but despite the glorious scenery SPHP did not.  SPHP’s sore feet and hot perspiring body clamored for an easier day.  Maybe it was time to move on and go see something different; something that wasn’t going to involve so much up.

So Lupe and SPHP turned around shortly after starting on the trail up the Yoho River valley.  Returning to the G6, SPHP drove drove back to Lake Louise Village. There SPHP gassed up the G6 to full before heading N on the Icefields Parkway, Hwy 93.  Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a pleasant air conditioned drive up to Bow Lake.  SPHP knew there was a beautiful trail with only modest elevation gain from the lake to Bow Glacier Falls.

Bow Lake in Banff National Park.
Bow Lake in Banff National Park.

A trail without a lot of elevation gain to another cool waterfall sounded like just the ticket.  SPHP did have the energy to do that.  Which is why Lupe’s next post will be about her successful journey to see Bow Glacier Falls.

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Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, Canada (7-26-14)

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Emerald Lake, Yoho Lake & High Point of Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park, Canada (7-24-13)

Lupe entered British Columbia for the first time on the morning of 7-24-13, Day 15 of her 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths/Canadian Rockies.  Two or three km S of the small community of Field, SPHP turned right (W) off Trans-Canada Hwy 1 on Emerald Lake Road.  A little over a km off Hwy 1, Lupe and SPHP stopped to view the Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River.

The Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River is a little over a km off Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 along Emerald Lake Road.
The Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River is a little over a km off Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 along Emerald Lake Road just 2 or 3 km S of the small community of Field, British Columbia.
The frothy, foaming, glacial silt-laden Kicking Horse River just downstream of the Natural Bridge.
The frothy, foaming, glacial silt-laden Kicking Horse River just downstream of the Natural Bridge.

The Kicking Horse River had a powerful flood of glacial-silt laden water pouring under the Natural Bridge.  It was an impressive scene, but far too dangerous for Dingoes to stay and play.  Lupe and SPHP drove on the rest of the way to Emerald Lake, about 8 km from Hwy 1, arriving at the SW shore of the beautiful deep green lake around 8:30 AM.

SPHP’s original intention was for Lupe to take the 5.2 km trail around Emerald Lake.  Just NE of the parking lot was a bridge for vehicles over a narrow arm of Emerald Lake.  The bridge led to Emerald Lake Lodge.  Lupe and SPHP crossed the bridge, went past the lodge and all of its cabins or condos, and picked up the trail around the lake.  The trail led around the big SE bay of the lake and then turned N following the E shore.  SPHP purposely chose to go around Emerald Lake counterclockwise in order to stay in the shade of the mountains as long as possible.

Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park, British Columbia
Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park, British Columbia

Emerald Lake, Yoho NP, 7-24-13The forest and undergrowth along the trail was thick and lush.  The trail was often a little distance from the lake shore, so all the vegetation frequently hid the lake from view.  It was still early enough so Lupe met only a few people on the trail along the E shore of Emerald Lake.

At the N end of the lake, the terrain changed.  The trail crossed a stream and left the dense forest behind.  On the other side of the stream, the entire area along the N shore was rocky and nearly flat.  There were only scattered trees and bushes.  The entire area NNE of Emerald Lake was a giant alluvial fan of dirt and rocks deposited by braided streams originating from unseen glaciers in the mountains to the N or NW.

The trail emerged from the dense forest after crossing this stream flowing down to Emerald Lake from the NE.
The trail emerged from the dense forest after crossing this stream flowing down to Emerald Lake from the NE.
Mt. Burgess from the N shore of Emerald Lake. Photo looks SE.
Mt. Burgess (8,491 ft.) (L) from the N shore of Emerald Lake. Photo looks SE.

Lupe was near the NW end of Emerald Lake and about 2/3 of the way around it when she came to a side trail heading NNE to Yoho Pass and Yoho Lake.  From Yoho Lake, SPHP knew Lupe could go on to Takakkaw Falls.  It was tempting.  After some hesitation and actually heading a short distance on past the trail to Yoho Pass, SPHP turned around.  Lupe was going to go back and take the trail to Yoho Lake!

Lupe met a few people on the trail to Yoho Lake, but not too many.  At first, the trail went through scrub forest over a maze of glacier melt streams running down the alluvial fan from NW to SE.  The trail itself headed NNE toward a steep headwall.  When Lupe reached the end of the alluvial fan, the real climb up to Yoho Pass began.  Once the trail started up, it climbed steeply and relentlessly.  Lupe passed close by a big waterfall that had been visible from a distance, and discovered an even more dramatic waterfall above it plunging down from a great height.

The climb up to Yoho Pass seemed long, hot and steep.  Biting flies plagued Lupe and SPHP.  Lupe was happy when very high up she came to some very small streams crossing the trail to drink from.  SPHP was happy when the trail reached the forest and there was finally some shade.  Eventually the trail started leveling out as it got closer to Yoho Pass.

Yoho Pass was beautiful.  There weren’t any views due to the thick, shady forest, but there were lots of wildflowers around.  From the pass, the trail descended gently for 0.7 km to Yoho Lake.  Lots of people were at Yoho Lake.  There is a campground at the lake, and a park ranger was busy giving a large group a guided nature tour.

Lupe reaches Yoho Lake.
Lupe reaches Yoho Lake.

Yoho Lake, Yoho NP 7-24-13Lupe and SPHP avoided all the people by following a trail SE a little way along the shore of Yoho Lake away from the campground.  Lupe and SPHP sat down by the shore to enjoy the view and take a break and enjoy a snack.  Biting flies were annoying, but at least there weren’t any mosquitoes.

The flies were a major distraction.  SPHP was trying to deal with them when suddenly there was a huge splash.  SPHP turned to see that 4 ducks – 2 adults and 2 young ones – were swimming by.  Lupe had charged into the lake, leash and all, after them!  SPHP was amazed.  Normally Lupe won’t enter water where she can’t touch bottom.  She also normally comes when called, but Lupe had duck dinner in mind.  SPHP was alarmed.  This was going to be hard to explain to the park ranger, if Lupe didn’t get out of Yoho Lake quickly.

The ducks had no problem dealing with the situation.  They didn’t even bother to swim away.  Instead the whole duck family swam back and forth as a group flotilla leading the eager, but slow-swimming Carolina Dog on a merry chase.  The ducks acted more like they were expecting to be fed than become dinner themselves.  They wanted to see what SPHP had in the way of snacks.  SPHP convinced Lupe to get out of the lake before hypothermia set in.  Lupe seemed disappointed that duck wasn’t on the menu, but greatly refreshed from her brisk swim in Yoho Lake.

Wapta Mountain from Yoho Lake. Photo looks SSE.
Wapta Mountain (9,127 ft.) from Yoho Lake. Photo looks SSE.

There were a couple of other problems at Yoho Lake.  Although SPHP had led Lupe here thinking it would be fun to go on to Takakkaw Falls, that meant losing a ton of elevation heading down into Yoho Valley.  The more SPHP thought about it, the less SPHP wanted to lose that hard won elevation gained coming up to Yoho Pass, especially since it would all have to be regained again in just a few hours on the return trip.  Furthermore, virtually all of the people arriving at Yoho Lake seemed to be coming up from the trail leading down to Yoho Valley and Takakkaw Falls.  Large groups were coming from that direction.

SPHP’s aversions to crowds and losing elevation made SPHP consider whether or not Lupe should just head back to Emerald Lake, or go on to Takkakaw Falls.  Fortunately, a 3rd option presented itself.  A much less used trail, the Highline Trail heads N from Yoho Lake to the Iceline Trail high up on the W slopes of Yoho Valley.  The Highline Trail actually gains elevation on the way to the Iceline Trail, which appealed to SPHP.  Better yet, SPHP had read good things about the Iceline Trail.  Maybe Takakkaw Falls could be seen across Yoho Valley from the Highline or Iceline trails?

So Lupe took the Highline Trail heading N.  It was a great decision.  At first the Highline Trail climbed steeply, switchbacking around in the forest, but then it leveled out and continued N high up on the ridge forming the W side of Yoho Valley.  Lupe and SPHP heard it first – the distant roar of water plunging off a mountain.  Soon a splendid view of Takakkaw Falls appeared.

Takakkaw Falls from the Highline Trail, Yoho National Park
Takakkaw Falls from the Highline Trail, Yoho National Park

Lupe and SPHP met no one at all on the Highline Trail.  Before reaching the Iceline Trail, the Highline Trail broke out of the forest into the open.  The views were amazing.   When Lupe got to the Iceline Trail, the views got even better!  The Iceline Trail resumed climbing and took Lupe way up above tree line into a stunning world of rock, water, ice, towering peaks and sky.  Lupe started meeting small groups of people again as soon as she hit the Iceline Trail.  It was immediately apparent why they were all here.

Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail. The Daly Glacier which supplies the water is seen high above the falls.
Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail. The Daly Glacier which supplies the water is seen high above the falls.
SPHP wound up with a series of 3 photos of a very happy Lupe hamming it up along the Iceline Trail with Takakkaw Falls in the background.
SPHP wound up with a series of 3 photos of a very happy Lupe hamming it up along the Iceline Trail with Takakkaw Falls in the background.

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Ice, streams, rock and sky along the Iceline Trail.
Ice, streams, rock and sky along the Iceline Trail.
Mt. McArthur (L) and Isolated Peak (R) from the Iceline Trail.
Mt. McArthur (9,911 ft.) (L) and Isolated Peak (9,262 ft.) (R of center) from the Iceline Trail.  Photo looks NW.

After a while, the Iceline Trail climbed more slowly.  It went over a series of ridges, each one moderately higher than the last.  Streams rushed down each little valley from the small glaciers a short distance above Lupe and SPHP.  Finally Lupe came to the highest ridge.  She had a view to the NW of Mt. McArthur, Isolated Peak and Whaleback Mountain (8,586 ft.) beyond the deep green valley of the Little Yoho River.

From this highest ridge, a spur from the Iceline Trail led a short distance up onto a barren rocky hill, the highest point along the Iceline Trail.  Lupe and SPHP took the spur trail and reached the summit.  Glaciers could be seen in every direction – the scene was splendid at every point of the compass.  A couple of hikers and their dog joined Lupe and SPHP for a little while at the Iceline Trail high point, but left again.  Lupe and SPHP lingered up there somewhere between 30 minutes and an hour.

Daly Glacier (L) coming down from the Waputik Icefield, Mount Daly (C), and Mount Niles (R) from the Iceline Trail
Daly Glacier (L) coming down from the Waputik Icefield, Mount Daly (10,039 ft.) (Center), and Mount Niles (9,734 ft.) (R) from the Iceline Trail.  Photo looks E.
Looking SE from the Iceline Trail towards the high peaks in the Lake O'Hara area.
Looking SE from the Iceline Trail towards the high peaks in the Lake O’Hara area.
Mt. McArthur (C) and Isolated Peak (R) from the Iceline Trail high point.
Mt. McArthur (C) and Isolated Peak (R) from the Iceline Trail high point with the Little Yoho River valley below.
Mt. McArthur
Mt. McArthur
Lupe at the Iceline Trail high point (summit of the rock hill on the little spur trail). Yoho National Park, Canada 7-24-13
Lupe at the Iceline Trail high point (summit of the rock hill on the little spur trail). Yoho National Park, Canada 7-24-13
Scene from Iceline Trail, Yoho NP 7-24-13
Looking N towards the Yoho Glacier.

By now it was starting to get late in the day.  It was a long way back to Emerald Lake. Lupe and SPHP had to start back.  It was a spectacular, beautiful hike all the way back to the G6.  The weather was perfect, the trail was nearly all downhill, and Lupe was having a blast exploring and sniffing.  Before leaving the high glacier streams, SPHP filled the water bottles with glacier water.  SPHP drank a bunch of it untreated and never had any ill effects from it.

Heading back along the Iceline Trail. Emerald Glacier at right. Photo looks SSE.
Heading back along the Iceline Trail. Emerald Glacier at right. Photo looks SSE.
Trolltinder Mountain (sharp peak in shadow) and Mt. Balfour (highest point) from the Iceline Trail.
Trolltinder Mountain (9,554 ft. – sharp peak in shadow) and Mt. Balfour (10,774 ft. – highest point) from the Iceline Trail.

Iceline Trail, Yoho NP 7-24-13Daly Glacier & Takakkaw Falls from Iceline Trail, Yoho NP 7-24-13

Along the Iceline Trail
Along the Iceline Trail

Once Lupe got back to the Highline Trail, the only people she met all the way back to Emerald Lake were a few near Yoho Lake.  Lupe completed her circumnavigation of Emerald Lake by taking the trail along the W shore back to the G6.  The sun was still shining on the tops of the highest peaks when Lupe and SPHP arrived at 9:38 PM.  Lupe’s 5.2 km trek around Emerald Lake had turned into a 13 hour day.  And what a glorious day it was!

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Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, Canada (7-26-14)

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Moraine Lake & Consolation Lakes, Banff National Park, Canada (7-23-13)

“No scene has ever given me an equal impression of inspiring solitude and rugged grandeur.  I stood on a great stone of the moraine where, from a slight elevation, a magnificent view of the lake lay before me, and while studying the details of this unknown and unvisited spot, spent the happiest half-hour of my life.”  – Walter Wilcox, 1905, six years after “discovering” Moraine Lake with Ross Peacock.

The morning of July 23, 2013 was totally overcast, almost foggy at Lake Louise Village.  SPHP had decided to return for more exploration of the Moraine Lake area with Lupe, but the day didn’t look very promising.  Moraine Lake was only 14 km away from the turn off the road to Lake Louise.  Half-way there, Lupe and SPHP drove out of the gloom and into brilliant sunshine.

The inspiring solitude Walter Wilcox experienced at Moraine Lake in 1905 is long gone.  Now crowds swarm over the rock pile at the E end of Moraine Lake just across the outlet stream.  On summer days the large parking lot fills quickly with cars, and they then line the road for long distances.  Buses bring more people.  It was still early when Lupe and SPHP arrived.  Early enough so there were still plenty of places to park in the parking lot, although they were going fast.

Lupe and SPHP took the very short Rock Loop trail leading up to the top of the “rock pile” from which Walter Wilcox had viewed the lake.  Hordes of tourists were already there.  Although the inspiring solitude is history, the rugged grandeur remains.  The striking colorful beauty of the waters of Moraine Lake beyond which lay towering peaks of the Valley of Ten Peaks didn’t even look real.  The whole scene looked like a fake impossibly beautiful postcard – but it was all real.

Lupe at Moraine Lake, Banff National Park 7-23-15
Lupe at Moraine Lake, Banff National Park 7-23-15
Moraine Lake from the E end of the Valley of Ten Peaks
Moraine Lake in the Valley of Ten Peaks from the Rock Pile
From L to R: Mt. Little, Mt. Tonsa, Mt. Perren, Mt. Allen, Mt. Tuzo, Deltaform Mountain.
From L to R: Mt. Little (10,302 ft.), Mt. Tonsa (10,020 ft.), Mt. Perren (10,010 ft.),  Mt. Allen (10,860 ft.)Mt. Tuzo (10,646 ft.), and Deltaform Mountain (11,240 ft.).

After visiting the Rock Pile, Lupe and SPHP took the 1.1 km Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail.  The Lakeshore Trail goes along the forested shore on the right side of the photos above to the far end of the lake.

Mt. Fay and the Fay glacier from the Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail.
Mt. Fay (10,610 ft.) and the Fay glacier from the Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail.
Mt. Fay (L) and Mt. Little (R) from the Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail.
Mt. Fay (L) and Mt. Little (R) from the Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail.

On the previous day, Lupe and SPHP had gone up to see Eiffel Lake and the upper end of the Valley of Ten Peaks.  However, Lupe and SPHP had not yet been on the 3 km long Consolation Lakes trail which starts just below the Rock Pile at Moraine Lake.

Due to recent grizzly bear activity in the area there was a requirement that people hiking all these trails stay in groups of at least 4 or face a $5,000 fine.  Lupe and SPHP waited at the start of the Consolation Lakes trail for a likely group to join.  Although far fewer people were interested in seeing Consolation Lakes than Moraine Lake, it didn’t take long before SPHP and Lupe were on the way as part of a large group of kids led by a couple of adults.

The trek to Consolation Lakes was through a forest virtually all the way, so there weren’t really any big views.  The trail was broad and easy to follow.  It gained elevation at a slow to moderate pace.  Approaching Lower Consolation Lake, the forest gave way to a broad flat valley of meadows through which a stream flowed.  The meadows ended at a large boulder field which had to be traversed to get to the shore of the lake. Lupe and SPHP went boulder-hopping and wound up sitting on a boulder at the water’s edge relaxing.

Lower Consolation Lake. Beyond the lake, the double peak near the center is Bident Mountain. It is separated by a large snowfield or hanging glacier from Quadra Mountain to its right. The green slope at the right side of the photo is part of Mt. Babel.
Lower Consolation Lake. Beyond the lake, the double peak near the center of the photo is Bident Mountain. It is separated by a large snowfield or hanging glacier from Quadra Mountain to its right.  It’s easy to see the 4 peaks or platforms of Quadra Mountain. The green slope at the right side of the photo is part of Mt. Babel (10,180 ft.).

Lupe and SPHP stayed there at the edge of Lower Consolation Lake for quite a long while.  There were plenty of people around, but not nearly so many as back at Moraine Lake.  Upper Consolation Lake, which is slightly smaller, was just out of sight beyond Lower Consolation Lake.  Every 15 or 20 minutes or so the rumbling roar of a large snowfall could be heard from a valley to the right beyond Lower Consolation Lake.  That valley was also out of sight, but seemed to be in front of and to the W (right) of Bident and Quadra Mountains.

Unfortunately, the trail did not extend past the boulder field at the N end of Lower Consolation Lake.  SPHP thought it would be great fun for Lupe to explore over to Upper Consolation Lake, from which the source of the rumblings could probably be seen.  (According to maps, likely snow falling off glaciers on Mt. Fay.)  No one else seemed to be interested in heading over there, however.  With the minimum 4  in a group rule in effect due to grizzly bears, Lupe and SPHP could not go over there alone.

The return to Moraine Lake was uneventful.  After eating dinner at a picnic ground along the Bow Parkway and spending a little time at Lake Louise Village, Lupe and SPHP went to Lake Louise.  SPHP sat on a bench with Lupe and wrote postcards.  A low-flying helicopter flew directly overhead and got Lupe all excited.  The helicopter hovered for a little while over the far end of the lake.

As the sun disappeared over the mountains and light was beginning to fade, Lupe and SPHP took the Lakeshore Trail to the far end of Lake Louise.  The helicopter was long gone.  No one was around.  Lupe sniffed the air and trotted happily along the trail like she always does.  The lake was smooth as glass in the stillness of the evening.  By the time Lupe returned, Chateau Lake Louise was all lit up.Moraine Lake, Banff NP, 7-23-13

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Eiffel Lake Trail & The Valley of Ten Peaks, Banff National Park, Canada (7-22-13)

After Lupe’s trek up the Paradise Valley trail to see Lake Annette and the Giant Steps in Paradise Valley, there was still time left in the day for more Canadian Rockies exploring.  Nema and Danielle, who had joined Lupe for the Paradise Valley trip, were interested in taking the trail from Moraine Lake up to Larch Valley and perhaps even on to Sentinel Pass.  They were willing to let Lupe and SPHP join them.

Lupe and Danielle at Lake Annette in Paradise Valley earlier in the day.
Lupe and Danielle at Lake Annette in Paradise Valley earlier in the day.

After a 12 km drive over to Moraine Lake, where it was just late enough in the day so a few parking spots were opening up again, Lupe met up with Nema and Danielle again.  Danielle unexpectedly announced that she wasn’t feeling energetic enough for another trail, but after a few minutes, Nema convinced her to come along.  Soon Lupe, Nema, Danielle & SPHP were heading up the trail.

The trail to Eiffel Lake starts at Moraine Lake.  For about 3 km it is the same trail that also heads up to Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass, beyond which is Paradise Valley where Lupe had been earlier in the day.  The trail climbs fairly steeply through a forest the entire way up to where it splits.  Although it had been overcast and occasionally sprinkling rain earlier in the day in Paradise Valley, by now it was fairly sunny out.  It started feeling rather warm going uphill.  Lupe and SPHP were glad the trail was in the shady forest.

Due to the forest, other than a few occasional glimpses, there really weren’t any views on this first stretch of trail.  The trail was very busy.  By now most people were going down, but there were still some heading up too.  Lupe became a pied piper.  Part way up, Lupe met Peter and Verna.  Peter and Verna live on an island in eastern Canada.  They were returning from a trip to see their daughter who lives in northern British Columbia.  Peter and Verna joined Lupe’s hiking party.  Chatting with Peter and Verna helped the last long section of switchbacks go by a little faster.

There was a bench at the place where the trails divided.  The trail to the left went to Eiffel Lake and beyond to Wenkchemna Pass.  The trail to the right went on to Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass.   Most people head for Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass.  Although Nema and Danielle also originally intended to go to Larch Valley, that trail still had considerable elevation gain ahead, whereas the trail to Eiffel Lake from here would be nearly level.  Nema and Daniel decided to skip Larch Valley and head for Eiffel Lake.  There would be great views of the famous Valley of Ten Peaks, the lower end of which is occupied by Moraine Lake, along the way.

A young ranger woman was stationed at the trail intersection.  She was lecturing everyone about staying in groups of 4 as required due to recent grizzly activity in the general area.  She was pleasant enough about it, although it seemed a bit silly as there were lots of people hiking this trail.  SPHP doubted there were any grizzlies around when there was such a crowd.

Still, the law allows for a penalty of $5,000 for non-compliance.  The penalty seemed pretty ridiculously high, considering it could be enforced whether there was any grizzly or not.  On the other hand, the ranger was armed with a rifle, too, so it was possible the penalty could be much higher yet.  SPHP asked the ranger how many hikers she had shot with the rifle for non-compliance so far. She replied “none” in good humor.  SPHP decided not to press the issue so that answer would remain the same.

While the which way should we go discussion and ranger chat was taking place, Lupe was busy making friends with a couple who sounded like they were from Germany.  They had their two daughters with them and were resting on the bench.  By the time a decision had been made to head for Eiffel Lake, Lupe had added the German family to her hiking party, too.  Now Lupe had nine hikers with her including SPHP.  This was very unusual, but fine with SPHP since it meant there was little chance of being eaten by grizzlies or shot by the government.

Lupe’s whole group took the trail to the left heading for Eiffel Lake.  Danielle led the way.  She must have recovered her lost energy.  She was slender and lightly built, but had great stamina and moved quickly.  The rest of the party had trouble keeping up with her.  Eventually Peter and Verna gave up trying and turned back.

From where the trails divided, the Eiffel Lake trail was wonderful.  The trail was quite high up on the lower slopes of Eiffel Peak (10,095 ft.) and nearly level.  Not too far from the bench where the trails divided, there started to be openings in the forest with tremendous views of the Valley of Ten Peaks.

Mt. Fay (10,610 ft.) from the trail to Eiffel Lake.
Mt. Fay (10,610 ft.) from the trail to Eiffel Lake.
Mt. Babel (10,180 ft. on L), Mt. Fay and the Fay glacier (center) and Mt. Bowlen (10,079 ft. on R). Moraine Lake visible at lower left.
Mt. Babel (10,180 ft.) (L), Mt. Fay and the Fay glacier (center), and Mt. Bowlen (10,079 ft.) (R). Moraine Lake visible at lower left.

The trail eventually crossed one big snowbank shortly before Eiffel Lake came into view.  By now the German family had been left behind, too, although they were still on their way.  Lupe’s hiking group was back down to just Danielle, Nema and SPHP.

Eiffel Lake near the upper end of the Valley of Ten Peaks. Wenkchemna Pass is visible beyond the lake. The mountain beyond the pass is probably Curtis Peak.
Eiffel Lake near the upper end of the Valley of Ten Peaks. Wenkchemna Pass is visible beyond the lake. The mountain sticking up beyond the pass is probably Curtis Peak.
L to R: Mt. Babel, Mt. Fay, Mt. Bowlen, and Mt. Tonsa (10,020 ft.). SPHP isn't 100% certain, but believes the peak at the far right is Mt. Perren (10,010 ft.)
L to R: Mt. Babel, Mt. Fay, Mt. Bowlen, and Mt. Tonsa (10,020 ft.). SPHP isn’t 100% certain, but believes the peak at the far right is Mt. Perren (10,010 ft.).
On the Eiffel Lake trail Lupe was right across the Valley of Ten Peaks from Deltaform Mountain (11,240 ft.)
On the Eiffel Lake trail Lupe was right across the Valley of Ten Peaks from Deltaform Mountain (11,240 ft.).

The scenery was magnificent everywhere one looked.  The Eiffel Lake trail doesn’t actually go down to Eiffel Lake.  Instead it stays 30 to 40 meters above the lake and skirts it a little way off to the N.  Ultimately the trail heads W all the way up to Wenkchemna Pass.  Lupe and SPHP would have loved to go on to Wenkchemna Pass, but Nema and Danielle were done.  It was clouding up again and threatening to rain anyway.

Rain clouds started gathering again over Eiffel Lake forcing Lupe & SPHP to turn back. Mt. Hungabee (11,450 ft.) is the high point on the right.
Rain clouds started gathering again over Eiffel Lake forcing Lupe & SPHP to turn back. Mt. Hungabee (11,450 ft.) is the high point on the right.  The trail going on to Wenkchemna Pass is faintly visible on the rocks near the right edge of this photo.

Reluctantly, Lupe and SPHP turned around and started following Nema and Danielle back.  Danielle outpaced everyone and disappeared from view.  Nema and SPHP chatted while Lupe kept a sharp eye and two ears out for squirrels.  Near the end of the return trip it did start to rain.  Around 6:00 PM, Lupe was back at Moraine Lake.  Nema and SPHP spotted Danielle ahead in the parking lot.  She was already on her way to their vehicle.  She waved and shouted back at Lupe and SPHP that it had been nice to meet us.  Lupe and SPHP said goodbye to Nema.

Nema and Danielle were going to go up to Jasper the next day.  They had reservations to spend several days hiking the Skyline Trail near Maligne Lake.  After that they planned on working their way S along the Icefields Parkway, so there was some slim chance that Lupe and SPHP might meet up with them somewhere again as Lupe and SPHP worked their way N, but Lupe never saw them again.Mt. Fay (L) and Mt. Bowlen (R), Valley of the Ten Peaks, Banff NP 7-22-13                                                             Links:

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Paradise Valley – Lake Annette & The Giant Steps, Banff National Park, Canada (7-22-13)

On the morning of 7-22-13, the 13th day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation, Lupe and SPHP explored the trail up Paradise Valley in Banff National Park to Lake Annette and the Giant Steps.  The Paradise Valley trailhead is 2.5 km south along the road to Moraine Lake from the road to Lake Louise from Lake Louise Village.  At the trailhead, Lupe and SPHP met and were joined by a couple from Maryland who both work for the U.S. Nuclear Regulatory Commission.  They were Nema (mechanical engineer) and Danielle (international relations).   Nema and Danielle both had the same objectives in mind.

The first part of the trip the trail climbed through a forest with no views.  However, fairly early on, there was a moose wandering through the forest, which was pretty cool.  Eventually the trail started coming to stream crossings over Paradise Creek.  Fortunately there were good wooden bridges.  At the Paradise Creek crossings, the views opened up somewhat.  Unfortunately, the day was overcast, with sprinkles of rain now and then.  The views weren’t what they might have been under better conditions.

Lupe reached Lake Annette 6.7 km from the Paradise Creek trailhead.  Lake Annette was a very pretty turquoise blue-green color.  It is nestled at the base of Mt. Temple (11,614 ft.), the highest mountain in the Lake Louise vicinity.

Lupe and Danielle at Lake Annette in Paradise Valley.
Lupe and Danielle at Lake Annette in Paradise Valley.
Mt. Temple from Lake Annette.
Looking S across Lake Annette at Mt. Temple.

Mosquitoes at Lake Annette encouraged Lupe and everyone else to keep moving right along.  The trail went back into the forest for a while, but eventually leveled out and came to an open area of loose rocks.  It was really a shame the sky wasn’t clear, because from here there would have been some great views of Paradise Valley and Mt. Hungabee (11,450 ft.) at the head of the valley with remnants of the Horseshoe glacier at its base.

Nema and Danielle in the open rocky area on the Paradise Valley trail. Mt. Hungabee (11,450 ft.) with remnants of the Horseshoe glacier is at the head of the valley (just L of center).
Nema and Danielle in the open rocky area on the Paradise Valley trail. Mt. Hungabee (11,450 ft.) with remnants of the Horseshoe glacier is at the head of the valley (just L of center).
Paradise Valley. The Giant Steps are visible toward the lower left.
Paradise Valley. The Giant Steps area on Paradise Creek is visible toward the lower left.

The trail went back into the forest and soon reached a junction 2.6 km beyond Lake Annette.  One way the trail went 2.4 km up to Sentinel Pass.  On the other side of Sentinel Pass it continued on to Moraine Lake and the Valley of Tens Peaks.  (SPHP suddenly realized that it would have been a lot more fun if one of the vehicles had been left at Moraine Lake, so Lupe and her new friends could have continued on over Sentinel Pass after visiting the Giant Steps.  Everyone agreed this would have been the thing to do.)

Lupe and the rest of the group took the other branch of the trail that led 1.5 km down into Paradise Valley to the Giant Steps.  There was a campground near the Giant Steps, but it was closed due to frequent grizzly bear activity.

Lupe reaches the Giant Steps on Paradise Creek.
Lupe reaches the Giant Steps on Paradise Creek.
Looking downstream at the Giant Steps.
Looking downstream at the Giant Steps.

Danielle and Nema on Paradise Creek. Sentinel Pass is visible beyond the forest behind them.
Danielle and Nema on Paradise Creek. Sentinel Pass gap in the mountains is visible beyond the forest behind them.

SPHP was disappointed that there wasn’t any trail continuing upstream from the Giant Steps towards Mt. Hungabee and the remnants of the Horseshoe glacier.

Since SPHP hadn’t realized at the beginning that it would have been better to have one of the vehicles at parked at Moraine Lake so a trip over Sentinel Pass would have made sense, once Lupe was done at the Giant Steps her entire party had to retrace the whole 10+ km route back past Lake Annette all the way to the Paradise Creek trailhead.  The return trip was uneventful, except that Nema saw a black bear.  Lupe, Danielle and SPHP never saw it, although SPHP did briefly hear something crashing through the forest.

Danielle at the Giant Steps with Mt. Temple in the background.
Danielle at the Giant Steps with Mt. Temple in the background.

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Lake Louise & the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail (7-21-13)

Lupe arrived in Canada for the very first time on the morning of July 20, 2013.  By afternoon she was in Banff in the beautiful Canadian Rockies.  Lupe and SPHP toured Banff the rest of the day and all morning on the 21st, but by afternoon it was time to leave the crowds behind.  Lupe and SPHP left Banff heading W in the G6 on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1.

SPHP intended to take Lupe to Sunshine Meadows, which isn’t far from Banff.  From Sunshine Meadows, Lupe and SPHP could take the trail up over Healy Pass to explore the Egypt Lake area.  SPHP left Hwy 1 intending to head up to Sunshine Meadows, but almost immediately found out that the road was closed for construction.  Heavy rains in June, 2013 had flooded and damaged the road.

Lupe and SPHP wound up driving on to Lake Louise, arriving a bit after 3:00 PM.  It was a bad time to arrive.  All the parking lots were full and cars were parked alongside the road for a great distance.  Lupe is a lucky dingo though, and SPHP soon found a parking place in the upper parking lot near the lake.

Lake Louise was gorgeous and busy.   Most of the crowds were at the NE end of the lake near the Chateau Lake Louise and the boathouse where they rent out canoes.  There was still time for Lupe and SPHP to make the round trip hike up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail beyond Lake Louise and back.  Lupe and SPHP set off on the Lakeshore trail.  The Lakeshore trail goes a little over 2 km right along the NW shore of Lake Louise heading SW with little or no elevation gain.

Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada
Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada
Lupe first reached Lake Louise near the boathouse where they rent out canoes.
Lupe first reached Lake Louise near the boathouse where they rent out canoes.
Lupe near the start of the Lakeshore Trail at Lake Louise 7-21-13
Lupe at Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-21-13
Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) from Lake Louise.
Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) from Lake Louise.  The Plain of Six Glaciers trail would take Lupe up to the base of Mount Victoria just to the right of the lowest big patch of snow.
Lupe checks out the grounds at the Chateau Lake Louise. Like the Banff Springs Hotel, the Chateau Lake Louise was originally a Canadian Pacific Railroad Hotel.
Lupe checks out the grounds at the Chateau Lake Louise. Like the Banff Springs Hotel, the Chateau Lake Louise was originally a Canadian Pacific Railroad hotel.

Lupe continued beyond Lake Louise on the Plain of Six Glaciers trail, which soon starts climbing as it continues up the valley towards Mt. Victoria.  A few km on the Plain of Six Glaciers trail brought Lupe to the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse.  Lupe just isn’t that big on tea or coffee, although she probably would have gone for some cookies or chocolate cake if SPHP had mentioned that the teahouse had those delicacies as well.

A look back at Chateau Lake Louise from along the Lakeshore Trail.
A look back at Chateau Lake Louise from along the Lakeshore trail.
The Plain of Six Glaciers trail on the way to the teahouse.
The Plain of Six Glaciers trail on the way to the teahouse.

From the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse, it was another 1.3 km to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail at the base of Mt. Victoria.  Lupe and SPHP continued on to the very end of the trail.

Lupe at the start of the last 1.3 km section of trail going onward to the base of Mount Victoria from near the teahouse.
Lupe at the start of the last 1.3 km section of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail going to the base of Mount Victoria from near the teahouse.
Mt. Lefroy (R) and The Mitre (center) from the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail. Philip Stanley Abbot fell to his death from near the top of Mount Lefroy on 8-3-1896. News of the tragedy inspired great interest in mountain climbing in the Canadian Rockies.
Mt. Lefroy (11,293 ft.) (R) and The Mitre (9,836 ft.) (Center) from the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. Philip Stanley Abbot fell to his death from near the top of Mount Lefroy on 8-3-1896 on his third attempt to be the first to climb Lefroy (he had tried and failed twice before in 1895). News of the tragedy inspired great interest in mountain climbing in the Canadian Rockies.  American Dingoes, however, prefer to avoid falling off precipices.  Lupe showed no interest in climbing Mt. Lefroy.
This glacier-filled canyon between Mt. Victoria (R) and Mt. Lefroy (L) is known as The Death Trap.
This glacier-filled canyon between Mt. Victoria (R) and Mt. Lefroy (L) is known as The Death Trap.
The Death Trap 7-21-13
The Death Trap as seen from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  Abbot hut is supposed to be at the upper end of The Death Trap, but SPHP couldn’t see it.
Intrepid Carolina Dog Lupe near The Death Trap 7-21-13
Intrepid Carolina Dog Lupe near The Death Trap 7-21-13
Lake Louise from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.
Lake Louise from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.

SPHP never did figure out what six glaciers the trail was named after.  The only really big glacier in view was the Victoria Glacier coming down through The Death Trap.  Presumably some of the glaciers have melted away over the years.  Lupe and SPHP still had a great time going up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  The trail is in very good condition and even relatively small children can manage it.

Although the trail had been very crowded when Lupe and SPHP had left Chateau Lake Louise earlier in the afternoon, Lupe and SPHP were the very last to leave from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  The trail was now deserted.

Returning to Chateau Lake Louise.
Returning to Chateau Lake Louise.

Mount Victoria from Lake Louise 7-21-13On the way back to Lake Louise, not long after passing the teahouse, Lupe and SPHP saw a wolverine ahead on the trail.  At first the wolverine seemed rather curious and stared at Lupe.  Lupe stared back intently at the wolverine.  After pondering Lupe for a few moments, the wolverine concluded it had better not tangle with an American Dingo.  It ran away out of sight down the trail.  The wolverine had a rather peculiar gait, a kind of loping along.

It turned out the wolverine had not left the trail.  Instead, it had stopped to see if Lupe was still coming.  Lupe and SPHP caught up with the wolverine several more times before the wolverine decided to quit the trail and go into the brush.  That was the last Lupe saw of the wolverine.  Lupe was rather fortunate to see a wild wolverine at all.  Wolverines are quite rare.

The wolverine wasn’t the only wildlife Lupe saw.  Once back at Lake Louise, when Lupe was almost to the parking lot, she saw a porcupine.  Despite wolverines’ reputation for ferocity, it turns out porcupines are much braver than wolverines.  The porcupine was not the least bit afraid of American Dingoes.   The porcupine took its sweet time sauntering across the trail before Lupe could pass.Lake Louise 7-21-13Lupe and SPHP returned to Lake Louise a year later on July 24, 2014 to make the hike up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail again.  Click here for photos and commentary from that trip!

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