January 2016 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 154 – Crystal Mountain (1-28-16)

SPHP had been expecting it, but hoping it wouldn’t happen. Naturally, it did. Lupe and SPHP had already successfully crossed South Boxelder Creek at least 5 times. This time the creek was too wide. There wasn’t any way SPHP could get across here, other than to wade the creek. Nope, not doing that – not in January!

Lupe at South Boxelder Creek. This was as far upstream as Lupe could go down in the deep valley. The creek was too wide for SPHP to cross here.

With the stream blocking the way forward, Lupe and SPHP couldn’t go any farther up the canyon. Getting to Crystal Mountain (5,680 ft.) really was going to be an adventure now. The question was, how hard would it be for Lupe and SPHP to climb up out of the canyon? The canyon walls weren’t cliffs, but they looked pretty steep, maybe too steep. Lupe and SPHP started backtracking downstream along the trail. There was a place not too far back that might work.

Lupe’s day had gotten off to a good start. SPHP had parked the G6 (8:46 AM, 32°F) at Boxelder Forks campground at the confluence of North and South Boxelder Creeks, about 3 miles (as the road goes) W of Nemo. From there, Lupe and SPHP had set off walking along the snow-packed access road beyond the campground. The road wound its way upstream past some nice cabins (one of which is for sale) in the South Boxelder Creek canyon.

Lupe’s Expedition No. 154 started at Boxelder Forks campground, about 3 miles W of Nemo.

When the road dead-ended, Lupe and SPHP had continued on upstream following a single track trail. Almost right away, SPHP knew there was going to be trouble. The trail crossed South Boxelder Creek almost as soon as it left the road. There wasn’t any bridge, but since the creek was frozen over there, Lupe and SPHP had been able to cross without difficulty.

Lupe starting along the trail in South Boxelder Creek canyon. This photo was taken just beyond the end of the access road, and looks W (upstream).

Lupe’s primary peakbagging goal for the day was Crystal Mountain, situated on the N side of South Boxelder Creek canyon, about 2.5 miles W of the campground as the crow flies. To get there, SPHP had planned for Lupe to follow South Boxelder Creek upstream a little over 1.5 miles, and then take a logging road up a side valley to the N. From there she could work her way over to Crystal Mountain.

No bridge over the creek at the very first crossing had been a red flag. South Boxelder Creek isn’t very big, but it’s too big to jump over most places and deep enough to get feet soaking wet. If the creek had to be crossed too many times, sooner or later, there wouldn’t be a way across.

The trail went through a very pretty forest. Lupe was having a wonderful time sniffing around and exploring. Unfortunately, the trail repeatedly crossed the creek. Each time there had been a way across – thick ice, a downed tree, stepping stones, something. And then finally, inevitably really, came the time when there wasn’t.

Looking W up South Boxelder Creek canyon. The place SPHP couldn't cross the creek is just ahead. Lupe climbed N (R) out of the canyon from near this point. — Looking W up South Boxelder Creek canyon. The place SPHP couldn’t cross the creek is just ahead. Lupe climbed N (R) out of the canyon from near this point.

Lupe was less than a mile upstream from where the trail started when she came to the place where SPHP couldn’t get across. She still had at least another 0.5 mile to go to get to the logging road where SPHP had intended for her to leave the canyon. SPHP checked the maps. According to the topo map, Lupe was in the narrowest, steepest part of the whole canyon. Just lovely!

Give up and go back, or climb? Silly question. Lupe would at least try to climb up out of the canyon! There was probably a reasonable route somewhere. If not, then Lupe and SPHP would have to admit defeat from this approach. Lupe wasn’t defeated yet, though! Lupe and SPHP began to climb up the N slope of the canyon. At first it wasn’t too bad. Before long, Lupe made it up to a rock platform with a view.

Lupe quickly climbed up the N slope of South Boxelder Creek canyon to reach this rock platform. She still had a lot of climbing left to do. Photo looks W.

SPHP could have backtracked a little farther down in the canyon and found a better spot to climb out, though. Lupe had started up following a spine of rock coming down from the N. As Lupe climbed, the rocks got bigger. Soon rock formations repeatedly blocked further advance along the spine. To the W were cliffs. SPHP sensibly chose to angle up along the E side of the spine, but this side of the spine was getting steeper, too.

Of course, an American Dingo wouldn’t have had any problem getting across the creek down below. And an American Dingo was having no problem wandering all over the steep side of the canyon. Lupe was, in fact, having a great time. She kept appearing above SPHP, looking down to see what was the matter.

"You coming, SPHP? This place is awesome!" — “You coming, SPHP? This place is awesome!”

Being human was the matter. As the side of the canyon got steeper, SPHP tried to stay near the spine of rock. At least the rocks provided some handholds and footholds. Slowly, slowly SPHP was gaining elevation using rocks, trees, bushes, whatever there was for support. Little patches of snow here and there didn’t make things any easier.

Lupe had 4 paws powering her up the side of the canyon. SPHP mimicked her and crawled when necessary. Crawling isn’t very fast under the best of circumstances. Lupe cheerily sprinted this way and that to show SPHP how to use 4 limbs to advantage. SPHP was a dang slow learner.

Little teeny rocks like the ones shown here kept blocking what should have been an easy route up the ridge, forcing SPHP onto the steep E slope.

Over and over again, it looked like it was just another 10 or 20 feet higher to where SPHP could get back up on the ridge where the terrain wasn’t so steep. Each time, after gaining the 10 or 20 feet and more, the situation looked the same. Now and then, SPHP had to retreat. Some places were just too steep, or snow was in the way making it too slippery. Each time, SPHP found a way around lower down, and then made another assault up the slope.

Fortunately, Lupe lives in the Black Hills of South Dakota, not the Himalayas. There is a reasonable limit to how much elevation one must gain to reach the top of even the largest mountains around here. Nearing the top of the canyon, SPHP finally made it back up on the ridgeline. Whew! No more clinging and crawling. It was January, but SPHP was sweating. It felt good to just walk upright again.

If Lupe felt any different, she didn’t show it. She’d had a great time climbing out of the canyon. Lupe and SPHP continued on up a much gentler slope. The first order of business now was to find a high point where SPHP could figure out where Lupe was.

Lupe came to an area near the top of a hill where loggers had really thinned out the forest. The place was kind of a mess. The highest ground seemed to be a bit of a march off to the SW near the edge of the canyon again. Lupe and SPHP left the logged area to go over there.

Along the way, Lupe and SPHP followed a ridge from which there were partial views off to the NW between the trees. Well beyond a fairly high forested hill, Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) and even more distant Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) could be seen. With snow on them, they both looked rather grand. Lupe visited a couple of high points along the ridge, and finally arrived at the highest spot of all at the SW end.

Lupe reaches the SW high point at the end of the ridge after climbing up out of South Boxelder Creek canyon. Was that flat ridge seen to the W, Crystal Mountain? Photo looks WSW.

New problem. Or, perhaps just a restatement of the former problem. The question really wasn’t, where is Lupe? Lupe was right here. The real question was, where is Crystal Mountain? It seemed like Lupe and SPHP ought to be able to see it from up here. There was a high flat ridge off to the W, or maybe WSW, but was that it? It didn’t seem right. It looked too big, flat, and not quite high enough. Nothing else really stood out as a possibility, though.

Lupe and SPHP moved around a bit to another vantage point, but the view was to the S across South Boxelder Creek canyon. Pretty, but most definitely the wrong direction to look for Crystal Mountain. Time to take a break and review the maps. Lupe wasn’t hungry yet. SPHP munched an apple.

The break spot. Photo looks S across South Boxelder Creek canyon. Pretty, but Crystal Mountain wasn't in this direction. — The break spot. Photo looks S across South Boxelder Creek canyon. Pretty, but Crystal Mountain wasn’t in this direction.

After devouring the apple, admiring the view to the S, and studying the maps, the exciting conclusion was that SPHP didn’t know where Crystal Mountain was. That big flat ridge Lupe had seen might be it, but still didn’t seem right. Lupe was just going to have to head NW. Crystal Mountain hadn’t moved. It was out there somewhere.

Going NW meant losing a lot of hard won elevation, but there was no way to avoid it. There was quite a bit of snow on the ground as Lupe and SPHP entered another section of recently logged mountainside and started down the slope. Custer Peak and Terry Peak were back in view. And so was that fairly high forested mountain in the foreground.

SPHP stopped. Earlier, SPHP hadn’t paid too much attention to it. It had seemed too far N. Maybe it wasn’t. The longer SPHP looked at it, the more obvious it seemed that the forested mountain had to be Crystal Mountain. Nothing else around was as high or shaped right. Lupe’s peakbagging goal was in sight! For some reason, it seemed like a thrilling discovery.

Crystal Mountain. Terry Peak is seen on the horizon on the R. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe still had quite a trek ahead of her to get to Crystal Mountain. As Lupe went down the snowy slope, the mountain disappeared from view. Lupe lost over 300 feet of elevation, and then crossed a road a short distance S of a saddle between ridges. The road was the one SPHP had originally intended for Lupe to take up from South Boxelder Creek.

Lupe and SPHP climbed up onto the next ridge to the NW. The area was fairly heavily forested, so there weren’t any clear views of Crystal Mountain, but there were often glimpses of it between the trees. Lupe had a wonderful time following the ridge. She ran and ran. There were patches of snow to roll in, and lots of scents to follow. There was a lot of up and down along the way, but no serious elevation changes.

The ridge started off heading N, but slowly swept around to the NW and then W. By the time Lupe was close to Crystal Mountain, she was approaching it from the NE. Lupe finally reached an open field where there was a clear view of Crystal Mountain ahead. It wasn’t too far away now!

Lupe getting close to Crystal Mountain. Photo looks SW.

For a little while as Lupe headed directly toward Crystal Mountain, SPHP was worried she might not be able to climb it. The mountain looked very rocky. Big rock walls could be seen up along the top of the ridgeline. There was quite a bit of snow on the NE side of the mountain. The last part of the way up looked steep.

Lupe climbing the NE slope of Crystal Mountain. It was actually pretty easy and not a long climb.

As it turned out, the climb wasn’t bad at all. Climbing out of South Boxelder Creek canyon had been much tougher. Lupe reached the E summit ridge at an opening separating two huge rock formations. Fortunately this gap provided easy passage between them. Once beyond the rock formations, Lupe and SPHP could see there was another summit ridge farther W, too.

The top of Crystal Mountain was really interesting. The E summit ridge ran NW/SE and had some tall vertical rock walls. If not for the opening in the wall Lupe had climbed up to, it would have been very hard to scale the mountain from the NE. The rock formations were large and impressive. There were cliffs with overhanging rocks. Some of the rocks were quite colorful.

Lupe on the SW side of the rock wall a short distance NW of the gap she came up through. These rocks are part of the E summit ridge.

Colorful rocks were decorated with even more colorful lichens.

Lupe’s first task on Crystal Mountain was to explore the E ridge, where it seemed likely the true summit could be found. The highest rocks were to the SE of where Lupe came through the opening between rock formations, but how to get to up on top? A very high rock wall extending to the SE looked like it would be impossible for Lupe to climb. Almost as soon as Lupe started following it SE, though, she came to a break in the wall where there was an easy path to the top.

Lupe’s easy path up to the top of the E ridge. She accessed this path from the SW. The rocks SPHP believes are most likely the true summit of Crystal Mountain are close by. Lupe is almost there!

In practically no time at all, Lupe was on top of Crystal Mountain! Lupe agreed to pose for a couple of photos to commemorate her success. Lupe looked great, as usual, but the views were rather disappointing. There were a lot of trees around, including a fair number of big dead ones. When they eventually fall over, the views will improve. As it was, about the only distant view was a narrow one off to the S.

It seemed like it had been a long journey to Crystal Mountain. Break time! SPHP was surprised that Lupe still wasn’t hungry. She only ate a little Taste of the Wild. What she really wanted to do was curl up in the sun and doze. While Lupe relaxed, SPHP studied the topo maps again.

Lupe reaches the very top of Crystal Mountain. This is the high point farthest N along the E ridge. SPHP believes Lupe is at the true summit here, but there were two other candidates for the honor on the mountain, too. Lupe visited both of them as well. Photo looks NW.

Lupe still at the first high point (northernmost on the E ridge) on Crystal Mountain. Photo looks S.

"Nope, you got 2 photos already up here! Enough already! I'm leaving to take a little nap in the warm sun." — “Nope, you got 2 photos already up here! Enough already! I’m leaving to take a little nap in the warm sun.”

This first high point Lupe had reached wasn’t the only possible location of the true summit on Crystal Mountain. According to the topo map, the W ridge and a small area farther to the SE on the E ridge all reached the same contour. It was possible the true summit was over at one of those alternate locations. To really claim a 100% certain peakbagging success, Lupe would need to go check them out.

Pretty soon, Lupe was ready to go again. SPHP and Lupe went back down her path up to this place, and headed farther SE along the big rock wall. Soon, SPHP saw a cairn ahead sitting up on a big boulder. This was the 2nd possible location of the true summit along the E ridge. SPHP didn’t think it was quite as high as where Lupe had just been, but hoped there was a way to get up to the cairn. Continuing SE along the rock wall, Lupe very quickly arrived at a place where she could easily climb up.

The path up to the cairn at the SE high point. There were some great open views off to the NE and E from up on this part of the ridge. Photo looks N.

The big boulder the SE cairn was on was at the very NW end of Lupe’s route up to it. Lupe got right up on the boulder next to the cairn without any problem. While SPHP doesn’t think this cairn is at the actual true summit, it’s possible it is. Due to the forest, the three highest points on the mountain can’t be seen from one another, making it hard to tell with certainty which high point is the true summit.

More interesting than the cairn was the sweeping panoramic view off to the E. Crystal Mountain is higher than anything else off in that direction, making it a great vantage point. Lupe could see Green Top (5,360 ft.) where she had been on Expedition No. 153 just 5 days earlier. Parts of White Mansion (5,340 ft.) were visible, too, but Green Top hid most of it. They were both so far away, they didn’t look too impressive from Crystal Mountain.

Lupe at the cairn at the SE high point of the E ridge on Crystal Mountain. Photo looks N.

It was clear there weren’t any higher spots farther SE from the cairn, but the ridgeline was so interesting, Lupe and SPHP followed it all the way to the end. The rock formations along the way seemed unusual. To the NE was a cliff, but to the SW the rocks formed a couple of big terraces, with plenty of room to walk along each level.

Even using the telephoto lens, Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) looks pretty far away from Crystal Mountain. Photo looks S. — Even using the telephoto lens, **Harney Peak (7,242 ft.)** looks pretty far away from Crystal Mountain. Photo looks S.

At the SE end of the E ridge. Photo looks SE across the South Boxelder Creek canyon.

After having a look at the views from the very SE end of the E ridge, it was time for Lupe to go check out the last possible location of the true summit of Crystal Mountain over at the W ridge. She journeyed NW back along the rock terraces, and turned W when the terrain allowed. Soon she was up on the W ridge.

The S end of the W ridge was much wider than the N end. The S end featured a clearing full of grass and small rocks where the ground sloped off toward the SW. There weren’t any views, since the clearing was pretty much surrounded by trees. The N end of the ridge looked much more interesting. It was much narrower and very rocky. At the highest point, a couple of rocks could be seen displayed against the sky.

There should be some great views from there! Lupe and SPHP headed for the promising high point of the W ridge.

Whether or not the high point of the W ridge was the true summit, it was certainly the most dramatic high point on the mountain.

A big rock formation extended farther out to the NW beyond the highest rocks. The W summit certainly provided some big views to the N and NE. SPHP was a bit disappointed that a few poorly placed trees blocked Lupe’s view of Custer Peak to the NW. Lupe and SPHP climbed down onto the ledge to the NW, but never got a clear view of Custer Peak, though it might have been possible to gain one with more scrambling around.

Lupe had now been to all three possible locations of the true summit of Crystal Mountain. She could legitimately claim a peakbagging success. Crystal Mountain had been a lot of fun to explore, and Lupe had spent quite a bit of time up here. The position of the sun was now indicating Lupe’s time on Crystal Mountain should be drawing to a close.

Before leaving the mountain, Lupe and SPHP did a little more exploring among some of the dramatic rock formations NW of the gap in the E ridge where she had originally climbed up. Then it really was time to go.

Lupe returns to the SW side of the rock wall on the E ridge.

Among the rocks NW of the gap in the E ridge.

Lupe and SPHP left Crystal Mountain the same way she came up. Most of Lupe’s journey back to the G6 was along the same general route she had taken to get to Crystal Mountain. But SPHP didn’t want to go back down the same steep rocky spine that Lupe had climbed coming out of South Boxelder Creek canyon. An alternate route down a valley farther E proved to be a little less steep, and significantly easier.

Down in the canyon, Lupe found herself far enough E so she only had to cross South Boxelder Creek twice to reach the road back to the G6. At 4:46 PM (44°F), Lupe was back at Boxelder Forks campground. Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 154 to Crystal Mountain had taken exactly 8 hours. SPHP noticed that it really wasn’t dark out yet. Not as dark as it would have been a month ago. Time goes by.

A Carolina Dog hopped in the G6 and looked at SPHP expectantly. “Yeah, time sure does go by. I haven’t eaten hardly a thing all day! Now, I’m famished! How about taking me home for some Alpo?”

Lupe had fun on the way back from Crystal Mountain, too! There's a squirrel way up there. Exciting times! — Lupe had fun on the way back from Crystal Mountain, too! There’s a squirrel way up there. Exciting times!

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Black Hills Expeditions Adventure Index , Dingo Vacations Adventure Index, or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 153 – Steamboat Rock, Pugg’s Keep & Green Top (1-23-16)

9:42 AM (44°F), a beautiful and warm (for January) sunny day, and Lupe was back! She had been here once before, almost 3 years ago. Way back on February 9, 2013, near the end of Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 46, Lupe had tried to climb Steamboat Rock (5,081 ft.).

Back then, Lupe hadn’t succeeded in finding a way up to the summit, but she’d gotten close. She’d approached from the N, and encountered cliffs just below the mountaintop. The cliffs weren’t high, only 10-15 feet tall at that end of the mountain, but the sun was about to set. There hadn’t been time to really look around for a safe way up.

Things were different now. It was early in the day. Lupe had time to search the entire circumference of the mountain, if necessary, to find a route up.

Lupe and SPHP set out from the Steamboat Rock picnic ground along Nemo Road. Boxelder Creek flows between the picnic ground and Steamboat Rock to the N. To get across the creek, Lupe followed Nemo Road E to USFS Road No. 147, where there was a bridge.

Lupe arrives at the Steamboat Rock picnic ground. Photo looks N at Steamboat Rock.

Once across Boxelder Creek, Lupe left USFS Road No. 147 by climbing up an embankment. She then traveled NW toward Steamboat Rock. Part of the time she was in the forest, and part of the time out on open ground just S of a big fenced field of privately owned land.

After crossing Box Elder Creek on USFS Road No. 147, Lupe headed NW toward Steamboat Rock.

Lupe had to re-enter the forest to get around the SW end of the field. She then turned N and started a gradual climb. Lupe and SPHP headed for the SE end of the E side of the mountain. The forest had suffered a fair amount of damage from mountain pine bark beetles, but it wasn’t too bad. Most of the time it wasn’t hard to avoid the deadfall timber.

Steamboat Rock contains two bands of rock which are less easily eroded than the geologic formations between and below them, resulting in two bands of cliffs around the mountain. Lupe needed to find a route up avoiding both. It was clear Lupe couldn’t just go up the S end of the mountain, where the cliff walls were high and unbroken. Lupe traveled N along the E side of Steamboat Rock, gaining elevation and looking for an opening.

By the time Lupe had climbed high enough to reach the base of the first set of cliffs, she was far enough N to see that just ahead was an area where the cliffs were reduced to an intermittent string of rock outcroppings. The ground between the rock outcroppings was steep, but easily climbable. Lupe and SPHP had no problem getting up above the first band of rocks.

At he base of the first set of cliffs. Just a short distance to the N, there were breaks in the cliff wall where it was easy to climb up above.

Lupe started climbing up toward the second set of cliffs, a light-colored band of limestone positioned high on the mountain. She continued angling up and toward the N. When she got high enough to see the cliffs through the forest, the view was discouraging. These cliffs were considerably higher than the ones below, and formed an unbroken wall. The ground below them was very steep, not much of a problem for Lupe, but SPHP had to proceed slowly and carefully.

Lupe and SPHP didn’t have to go too much farther N before there was a glimmer of hope. The cliff face was less regular, and there began to be some clefts in the rock. Lupe came to a place where there was a fairly large opening. SPHP couldn’t see the top of the opening, but it looked like it might be possible to climb up here.

SPHP started climbing, but soon realized that the ground was just too steep. There were little patches of snow and ice in the shade of the mountain, enough to make this route slick and treacherous. There were too few firmly anchored rocks to provide decent handholds and footholds. SPHP went back down. Lupe and SPHP continued N.

Just a little farther on, there was another break in the cliffs. Some steep ground led up to a much smaller opening where it looked like Lupe and SPHP should be able to get up on top. Lupe waited patiently as SPHP made a careful ascent. Soon both Lupe and SPHP were up above the highest band of cliffs on Steamboat Rock!

Lupe below the highest band of cliffs on Steamboat Rock near where she was able to get up on top.

Lupe up above the highest band of cliffs along the E edge of Steamboat Rock. Photo looks NE.

SPHP wasn’t really sure what Lupe would find up on Steamboat Rock. A glance to the W from where Lupe came up was very encouraging. An unbroken gentle slope rose slightly toward the W. The ground was almost flat. A pine forest covered the top of the mountain, with little sunlit clearings scattered here and there. Pine needles and patches of snow covered the forest floor.

Lupe and SPHP headed W through the forest. A few minutes later, Lupe reached a strange structure crudely built out of rough wood. It was about 30 feet long N/S, and maybe 15 to 20 feet wide E/W. A gap in the 4 foot high walls near the NW end of the enclosure served as the only entrance. There was no roof. A sign indicated Lupe had arrived at “Pugg’s Keep”. Trash, mostly empty beer cans and water bottles, was strewn all over the place.

Pugg’s Keep was perched quite close to the cliffs along the W side of Steamboat Rock. Lupe went to check out the view. Not too surprisingly, Pugg’s Keep was pretty close to the best view from Steamboat Rock.

Lupe along the W rim of Steamboat Rock. This view to the NW was judged to be the best from anywhere on the mountain by SPHP. Boxelder Creek can be seen in the large field far below.

Since Steamboat Rock slopes slightly down toward the E, the true summit had to be somewhere close to the cliffs along the W edge. Lupe and SPHP explored S along the W rim almost all the way to the S end of the mountain.

Although the top of Steamboat Rock is forested, there were plenty of spots along the W rim where there were nice views from the SW around to the NW. The forest was thicker, and provided fewer viewpoints along the E rim.

After her explorations to the S, Lupe headed back N along the W rim. Lupe’s investigations had revealed that the true summit was a relatively small flat area, just a little way S of Pugg’s Keep.

Near a splendid Ponderosa Pine at the true summit of Steamboat Rock. Lupe claimed her peakbagging success nearly 3 years after her first unsuccessful attempt to climb the mountain.

Lupe returned to Pugg’s Keep for another sniff around. Inside the enclosure was a rather nicely constructed fireplace made of loosely assembled limestone. On the W side were a number of boards with writing on them, including the Pugg’s Keep sign.

People had painted their names or nicknames on various pieces of wood near the Pugg’s Keep sign. Most of the dates weren’t from that long ago, just a few months back in the late summer or fall of 2015. “Antman” on 8-30-15, Brit Holberry, Isaiah S. Shovel 9-7-15, Alex Lewis, Coletrain 9-5-15, McPat, Jim & Susan & Brit on 10-30-15, Caleb Stanley, and Beave S. R. were just some of the names. Apparently Steamboat Rock was not always a lonely outpost.

In fact, Pugg’s Keep gave the impression of a sometimes rather lively party place. Numerous empty beer cans, half a dozen water bottles, a giant empty bottle of New Amsterdam Vodka, a few coke cans and a plastic sports drink bottle were strewn around, along with other garbage. At the S end of Pugg’s Keep was a tattered blue-gray quilt hanging from some trees. It looked like a dilapidated hammock. Beneath it was a decaying black garbage bag full of more cans, bottles, and trash.

The Pugg's Keep sign on Steamboat Rock. — The Pugg’s Keep sign on Steamboat Rock.

Lupe in Pugg's Keep. Photo looks S. — Lupe in Pugg’s Keep. Photo looks S.

Are "Antman" and Brit Holberry one and the same? Who knew? — Are “Antman” and Brit Holberry one and the same? Who knew?

The lovely Pugg's Keep hammock on Steamboat Rock. Sheesh, people! — The lovely Pugg’s Keep hammock on Steamboat Rock. Sheesh, people!

There were more fine furnishings at Pugg’s Keep, too. An old portable grill just starting to rust was nestled in the W wall. A couple of short ropes hung from a tree. An assortment of pens was bungee corded to a tree. Nearby, a First Aid kit was fastened to another tree. Someone had written a crude message on the First Aid kit case implying that anyone who actually needed to use it was weak and worthy of despise.

Clearly the word “Keep” in Pugg’s Keep was used in the sense of a fortress. The top of Steamboat Rock, nearly completely surrounded by cliffs, pretty effectively suited that meaning of the word. “Keep” certainly didn’t have anything to do with housekeeping. Pugg didn’t know diddly about housekeeping.

SPHP had 4 good plastic Safeway or Wal-Mart sacks. While Lupe sniffed around, SPHP started filling them with trash. An old red tote bag under the hammock was in good enough shape to carry some junk in, too. SPHP collected close to 3 dozen beer cans, the giant Vodka bottle, at least half a dozen water bottles, and other assorted trash, stuffing it all into plastic bags or the old red tote bag. One of the ropes hanging from a tree was used to tie together whatever wouldn’t go into SPHP’s backpack.

When the sacks and tote bag were full, there wasn’t much trash left around. The hideous hammock was still there, the First Aid kit and pens, plus the old grill, but almost everything else was packed up ready to go. Which way to go, though? With so much junk to carry out, SPHP was now interested in getting it all back to the G6 as expeditiously as possible.

Lupe and SPHP left Pugg’s Keep to go check out the N end of Steamboat Rock. Lupe hadn’t been there yet. Maybe there was an easier way down?

The N end of the mountain turned out to be narrower and rockier than any other part. The terrain was more broken up. There were a couple of significant breaks in the cliff line where it might be possible to go down to the W, but it was hard to know for sure without actually going down and scouting out the possibilities.

Lupe on her explorations toward the N end of Steamboat Rock.

The very N end of Steamboat Rock was a narrow, discontinuous line of stone. SPHP concluded it was probably best for Lupe to just leave Steamboat Rock the same way she had come up. Before leaving, Lupe and SPHP returned one more time to Pugg’s Keep to retrieve SPHP’s backpack, and the big bundle of Lupe Treasures destined for recycling or the garbage truck.

Lupe back at Pugg's Keep near the big bundle of Lupe Treasures. This was one of Lupe's biggest single hauls, ever! — Lupe back at Pugg’s Keep near the big bundle of Lupe Treasures. This was one of Lupe’s biggest single hauls, ever!

Carting the bundle of Lupe Treasures down off Steamboat Rock didn’t do anything to enhance SPHP’s speed or agility, but the trip back down the steep E slopes of the mountain wasn’t as bad as SPHP expected. Lupe certainly had plenty of time to sniff around! A few times she found squirrels in the trees, providing happy moments of enthusiastic barking.

Lupe’s route going down below the upper band of cliffs on the E side of Steamboat Rock. Photo looks S.

Instead of carrying everything all the way back to the G6, SPHP left the Lupe Treasures by the side of USFS Road No. 147. Lupe and SPHP returned with the car to stuff it all in the trunk. There were even a few more Lupe Treasures to gather up alongside No. 147 to add to the collection. The more the merrier, in a way, although it made SPHP pretty disgusted with the human race. Well, not all of it, but a significant alcohol-soaked part of it for sure.

For no farther than it had been to Steamboat Rock, it had sure seemed to take a long time get there and explore it all. Lupe and SPHP had reached the G6 again at 1:31 PM (55°F!). There was still time to do something else on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 153, but not as much time as SPHP had expected. Before leaving the Steamboat Rock area, Lupe and SPHP drove N along USFS Road No. 147 a half mile or more for a parting view from another perspective.

Steamboat Rock from the SE along USFS Road No. 147.

The high cliffs at the SE end of Steamboat Rock. (Taken with the telephoto lens.)

After a couple photos of Steamboat Rock from the SE, Lupe and SPHP returned to Nemo Road and headed NW toward Nemo. Lupe stopped again along the highway for a look back at Steamboat Rock from the W.

Steamboat Rock from the W along Nemo Road.

Lupe and SPHP continued driving NW to Nemo and beyond. SPHP actually had another couple of peakbagging goals in mind for Lupe, although it was looking like there was probably only time enough for one of them now. SPHP wound up wasting more time looking for the best starting point, but eventually (2:26 PM, 51°F) parked the G6 near the start of USFS Road No. 414.6K just N of Nemo Road, about 2 miles N of Nemo.

No. 414.6K was snowy and partially snow-packed by vehicle tracks. It headed N for about a mile toward Lupe’s next two possible peakbagging goals, Green Top (5,360 ft.) and White Mansion (5,340 ft.). Just S of Green Top, No. 414.6K came to an intersection. By now SPHP had decided Lupe should go for Green Top instead of White Mansion.

Lupe and SPHP turned W (L) at the intersection. A sign said Lupe was still on USFS Road No. 414.6K. No. 414.6K gradually curved to the NW slowly gaining elevation as it proceeded up Green Draw. There were no vehicle tracks at all in the snow here, just a few animal tracks. Lupe liked this part of the woods. She was hearing things in the forest. Lupe sprinted off in various directions, racing back again every few minutes to check on SPHP’s progress.

Lupe races back along USFS Road No. 414.6K looking for SPHP. This quiet, private section of road W of Green Top seemed remote and beautiful on a winter afternoon.

Somewhere W of Green Top, Lupe and SPHP left No. 414.6K to start climbing NE through the forest. There were big boulders and occasional rock outcroppings along the way. The same geological rock formations present at Steamboat Rock were also present here. It was quite possible Lupe would have to find a way up over two bands of cliffs again to reach the summit of Green Top. It wasn’t at all certain Lupe would find a route to the top.

Lupe’s final approach up Green Top was from the NW. Fortunately, the rock outcroppings did not form continuous cliffs along in here. Lupe had no problem going up the mountain, but it was impossible to see how much farther Lupe had to go. Green Top was thickly forested. The young trees were tall, thin and densely packed.

Unlike Steamboat Rock, there wasn’t much left of the original limestone cap up at the top of Green Top Mountain. A narrow ridge ran NW/SE. A rocky little scramble up a short slope brought Lupe to the NW end of the summit ridge.

The views were really great! Snowy Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) off to the WNW was the feature attraction, but Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) and a wide swath of the central Black Hills was all on display, too.

The remnant rocks of the limestone cap at the NW end of the summit ridge on Green Top. Photo looks S.

Lupe up on the NW end of the Green Top summit ridge. Photo looks WNW toward Custer Peak. Terry Peak is also visible toward the R.

Custer Peak from Green Top using the telephoto lens.

Lupe still at the NW end of the Green Top summit ridge. Photo looks S.

Looking SE along the summit ridge, it appeared likely that Lupe wasn’t quite at the true summit of Green Top yet. The broken ridge was mostly hidden by forest. It still wasn’t clear if Lupe would succeed in reaching the actual summit.

Looking SE along the summit ridge of Green Top. It looked like there was higher ground in that direction, but the ridge was rather broken up. Would Lupe be able to reach the true summit?

Lupe and SPHP worked their way SE along the ridge, staying on the NE side. To the SW were cliffs – not high cliffs, but still cliffs. It wasn’t far to a platform of rock slightly higher than the rest of the ridge. Fortunately, there was a way to climb up on top with little trouble or risk. This platform was the true summit of Green Top! Lupe had arrived!

The entire slightly elevated summit area was only the size of a large room in a house. The best views were from the SSE around to the SW. By now it was maybe just 45 minutes until sunset. Green Top was going to be Lupe’s last peakbagging success of Expedition No. 153.

Lupe and SPHP sat together enjoying the view. SPHP petted and talked to Lupe. It was all very deep and profound stuff. Lupe listened carefully. She understood it all. In fact, she already knew it. SPHP ate an orange. Lupe wasn’t hungry, even though she hadn’t eaten all day.

The time to go always comes too quickly. Lupe and SPHP left the summit of Green Top, returning to the NW end of the ridge. There, after one last look toward Custer Peak, Lupe and SPHP started down the mountain. This time Lupe stayed farther E than she had been coming up. She lost plenty of elevation going down through the thick forest of spindly pines. She passed by lots of purple-gray boulders and rock outcroppings.

The rocks and dense forest ended as Lupe approached the saddle NW of Green Top. From the saddle, Lupe and SPHP headed ENE through a snowy field of tall grass and widely scattered pines to reach USFS Road No. 155.1A. To the NW, No. 155.1A went up Wilson Gulch, but Lupe and SPHP followed the road S between Green Top and White Mansion.

Cows were mooing at a very secluded ranch NW of White Mansion. No. 155.1A was very snowy. There were deep ruts in the snow where some jeep or high clearance vehicle had spun its way through. E of Green Top, Lupe and SPHP didn’t see the sunset. The temperature dropped as SPHP trudged S through the snow. Two big, erect American Dingo ears, and an arching curly tail led the way.

The cows left behind, the only sound was the soft crunch of Dingo paws on the now hardening snow. Before Lupe reached the intersection with USFS Road No. 414.6K, she heard them. It was that moment of twilight when the branches of the trees are an impenetrable black against the palest blue sky. The wild dogs of the forest, the coyotes, were howling.

For just a few minutes, the coyotes howled to one another. For just a few minutes, Lupe listened attentively to the call of the wild. Then she and SPHP crunched on in silence along the snowy road (5:23 PM, 35°).

Looking SSE from Green Top. The big field Lupe had seen from Steamboat Rock is visible on the R. Beyond the field, also on the R is Green Mountain (5,240 ft.). — Looking SSE from Green Top. The big field Lupe had seen from Steamboat Rock is visible on the R. Beyond the field, also on the R, is **Green Mountain (5,240 ft.)**.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Black Hills Expeditions Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Green River Lakes, Squaretop Mountain & The Highline Trail to Beaver Park, Wind River Range, WY (8-30-15)

Near the end of Lupe’s great Summer of 2015 Dingo Vacation, SPHP had to cut out of the plan some really terrific adventures. There just wasn’t time enough left for Lupe to do them all. The last of Lupe’s adventures she would actually get to complete would be in the fabulous Wind River Range of Wyoming. The first of these adventures was for Lupe to travel the Highline Trail from Green River Lakes to Beaver Park near Squaretop Mountain.

After arriving at Lower Green River Lake the previous evening, Lupe started Day 22 of her 2015 Dingo Vacation ready to hit the Highline Trail. She set out at 7:41 AM (52°F) under partly cloudy skies. Lupe reached the Highline Trail by crossing a bridge over the Green River just downstream of where it leaves the lake.

Lupe on her way to the Highline Trail via this bridge over the Green River.

Once Lupe was across the bridge, the Highline Trail took her SSE paralleling the NE shore of Lower Green River Lake. The trail stays well above the lakeshore for the entire 2 miles or so it takes to get to the far end of Lower Green River Lake. The area along the trail is only sparsely forested, so there is a splendid view of Lower Green River Lake with Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.) looming in the distance almost the entire way. The scene is one of SPHP’s very favorite mountain scenes anywhere.

Lupe near Lower Green River Lake. Squaretop Mountain is in the distance.

When Lupe got near the S end of Lower Green River Lake, the trail began to head down closer to lake level. The bushes at the S end of the lake were already showing some fall colors. Lupe crossed a bridge over Clear Creek coming down from Clear Lake to the E. A couple of miles up the Clear Creek Trail there is a natural bridge where Clear Creek flows through a big hole in a mountain. Lupe didn’t get to go there. She continued on the Highline Trail on the way to Upper Green River Lake.

Approaching the S shore of Lower Green River Lake. The lower lake is the larger of the two Green River Lakes. There is really little elevation difference between the upper and lower lakes. The upper lake is at 7,968 feet, while the lower lake is at 7,961 feet.

Bushes beyond the S shore of Lower Green River Lake were already starting to exhibit some fall colors.

Clear Creek flows down from the E to join the Green River between the Green River Lakes.

The two Green River Lakes are less than a mile apart. The area in between is flat. Quite a bit of it is covered with bushes and tall grass. A bridge crosses the Green River between the lakes. Beyond the bridge on the W side of the valley are two trails. One heads around the W shore of Lower Green River Lake, so that it is possible to make a complete loop around the lake. The other heads SSW along the Porcupine Trail up to Porcupine Pass.

Lupe stayed on the E side of the river following the Highline Trail to Upper Green River Lake. If anything, the view of Squaretop Mountain beyond the upper Green River Lake was even better than the one from the lower lake. Lupe agreed not to look so stiff or scowl at the Upper Green River Lake.

Lupe strikes an odd pose along the Green River between the upper and lower Green River Lakes.

Squaretop Mountain and Upper Green River Lake.

Lupe goes wading in Upper Green River Lake.

Squaretop Mountain from Upper Green River Lake. The upper lake is only about 1 mile long and 0.25 mile wide, half the dimensions of the lower lake. The surface area is only 1/4 of the size of the lower lake.

The Highline Trail passes to the E of Upper Green River Lake. It goes up and down well above the lake through a much denser forest than exists along the NE side of the lower lake. There were fewer viewpoints along the way, but there were a few.

Lupe E of Upper Green River Lake. Photo looks SW.

Squaretop Mountain and a view toward the S shore of the Upper Green River Lake from the Highline Trail.

Squaretop Mountain lies 3 or 4 miles beyond the S shore of Upper Green River Lake. The Highline Trail follows the Green River valley upstream passing to the E of Squaretop Mountain. Sometimes the trail is close to the river, other times it is away from it up in the forest. Although the trail goes up and down, there is little net elevation gain. The views of Squaretop were more and more impressive as Lupe got closer.

Approaching Squaretop Mountain from the N. The Green River is shown here upstream of both Green River Lakes.

SPHP has an old book called Wind River Trails. It is the 3rd edition printed in 1979. The book was written by Finis Mitchell, who moved with his parents in a mule-drawn wagon from Missouri to Wyoming in 1906, arriving at the Wind River Range on April 26th. Finis Mitchell spent much of his life in the Winds. Eventually he ran a fishing camp with his wife. Although only 5 lakes in the Wind River Range had fish naturally, Finis Mitchell used milk cans and horses to pack in 2.5 million little trout and stock 314 lakes.

In Wind River Trails, Finis Mitchell describes a route up Squaretop Mountain from the E. The route is supposed to be relatively easy. Finis talks about taking a child as young as 4 years old up Squaretop (the child had to be handed up over a lot of ledges), and Boy Scout and Girl Scout troops making the trip. The route up leaves the Highline Trail at Beaver Park, about 5 miles S of Upper Green River Lakes.

Looking at Squaretop Mountain, SPHP got the feeling maybe a guy who spent his entire life in these mountains might have a different view of what was easy. Maybe things would look different from Beaver Park. If children could do it, certainly an American Dingo could. There wouldn’t be time for it, though. For Lupe and SPHP this was just a scouting trip.

Looking at some of the mountains W of the Green River before reaching Squaretop Mountain.

On a section of the Highline Trail passing through the forest, SPHP saw some rapids on the Green River down below. There were some nice rocks and rock ledges along the bank of the river, so Lupe and SPHP went down to investigate. The river had the beautiful color of rivers carrying glacial silt. The rapids were very pretty. There was a particularly handsome boulder out in the stream.

The handsome boulder at the rapids in the Green River near Squaretop Mountain.

When Lupe ran down to the rapids, she waded in the stream to get a drink of water. She climbed right out again just fine, but SPHP saw that her right rear paw was all bloody! It took some persuading to get Lupe to lay down and let SPHP take a look. It must have hurt, because Lupe didn’t want SPHP touching that paw. SPHP had to be very gentle.

Her right rear dewclaw must have gotten caught on something. Part of it had snapped off, and SPHP could see that it had been bleeding. Nothing else looked injured, and the dewclaw did not look torn from the rest of her paw. SPHP washed the blood off Lupe’s paw. She licked it for a while. After about 10 minutes she seemed to feel better about it. She was ready to get up.

Lupe posed for some pictures along the beautiful Green River. She waded a little bit in the cold water, which probably made her dewclaw feel better. By the time Lupe left the rapids to return to the Highline Trail, she seemed to have already forgotten all about the injured dewclaw.

The American Dingo with a broken dewclaw bravely poses for pictures along the gorgeous Green River.

Beyond the rapids, the Highline Trail continued S passing to the E of Squaretop Mountain. Lupe was starting to get close to Beaver Park. She was looking for a footbridge across the Green River. At the footbridge she would cross over to reach the upper end of Beaver Park.

Squaretop Mountain looms more than 3,000 feet above the Highline Trail.

A look at mountains to the SW upstream past Squaretop Mountain.

A look back to the NW at **Granite Peak (9,892 ft.)**. Granite Peak is just E of Squaretop Mountain, which was to the L of this photo.

Lupe reaches the footbridge across the Green River to the upper end of Beaver Park.

Looking upstream (S) along the Green River from the bridge to Beaver Park.When Lupe reached Beaver Park, she went out into the big field to take a look around. It was certainly a beautiful spot. SPHP saw no easy way up Squaretop Mountain from down in Beaver Park. The first part of Finis Mitchell’s route required a climb of 1,000 feet from Beaver Park up to Granite Lake just SW of Granite Peak.

Lupe reaches Beaver Park in the Wind River Range. Granite Peak is on the left. Photo looks N.

It would probably have been possible to get a much better look at the route up the ledges to Squaretop Mountain that Finis Mitchell talked about in Wind River Trails from Granite Lake. Earlier in the day going to Granite Lake had seemed like a great idea, but by now the 1,000 foot climb seemed like too much work.

Besides, the American Dingo had an injured dewclaw! It was probably best not to overdo it. Never mind that the Dingo seemed to have forgotten all about it. The trek to Beaver Park along the Highline Trail had been a pleasant one, with lots of fabulous scenery and without a ton of elevation gain or loss. Why not just enjoy the day? Lupe still had to go all the way back to the G6.

Lupe and SPHP went over to the Green River again and took a break. Lupe had Taste of the Wild and water. She relaxed on the bank above the river and grew a bit sleepy. SPHP looked at maps. There were dramatic high cliffs on the mountain on the other side of the river. After a little while, the sky seemed to cloud up more. The day grew darker.

Lupe kind of dozes along the bank of the Green River near the upper end of Beaver Park.

High cliffs E of Beaver Park and the Green River.

Green River near Beaver Park. The sky started clouding up.

Lupe had explored only a short segment of the Highline Trail coming to Beaver Park from Green River Lakes. Backpackers doing the most popular through hike from Green River Lakes to Big Sandy reported estimated trip lengths of 7 to 9 days. The entire trail is over 100 miles long, although portions beyond Green River Lakes and Big Sandy at either end are seldom used.

Lupe was only here for a day hike, though. Beaver Park was about as far as Lupe and SPHP could go and still return in a day. When it started to rain with tiny hailstones, Lupe and SPHP took refuge under tall pines near the Highline Trail. It was time to think about heading back. About the time the rain stopped, a forest ranger came along the trail from farther upstream. This was an amazing thing in itself!

In all her many explorations and adventures, Lupe had never seen a forest ranger away from the pavement before. This forest ranger was actually out in the forest, and doing what one thinks of as forest ranging. SPHP talked to him. His name was Chad. Chad was quite friendly and full of information about the Wind River Range. This was his 3rd year working in the Winds.

Chad said the Finis Mitchell route up Squaretop was rather hard to find, since some of the landmarks (like burnt areas in the forest) which Finis Mitchell used to describe the route had changed since Wind River Trails was written. SPHP had been wondering if there wasn’t another easier route via the Porcupine Trail. Chad confirmed that there was. It was longer, though. Chad had been up on Squaretop Mountain and knew what he was talking about.

After a fun chat with Chad, he needed to be moving along. He was on his way up into high country near the Golden Lakes, and from there clear up to the glaciers beyond, to check on wildlife, hunters and climbers. He would remain on the Highline Trail for a little while longer before looking for a place where he could leave the trail and climb up to Golden Lakes.

Lupe and SPHP followed Chad along the Highline Trail. Despite carrying a huge, heavy pack, Chad was faster than SPHP. Lupe and SPHP did catch up to him again several times when he stopped to chat to people along the trail. The last time Lupe and SPHP reached him, he had stopped to have a sandwich before leaving the trail. Chad very kindly gave Lupe some of his cheese sandwich. (Dingoes love cheese!)

Lupe starts back across the bridge over the Green River leaving Beaver Park.

Looking back at Squaretop Mountain. Granite Peak is the comparatively small hill on the L. — Looking back at Squaretop Mountain. Granite Peak is the comparatively small forested hill in the sunlight on the L.

Lupe gets a bite of Chad's cheese sandwich at their last meeting. Chad was a real forest ranger - he actually spends his time in the mountains instead of at a desk. — Lupe gets a bite of Chad’s cheese sandwich at their last meeting. Chad was a real forest ranger – he actually spends his time patrolling in the mountains instead of sitting at a desk. Chad was the first forest ranger Lupe ever saw actually patrolling in a forest. He was a terrific, knowledgeable guy and in great shape, too.

On the way back, Lupe stayed on the Highline Trail until she was between the two Green River Lakes. There she crossed the bridge over to the W side of the Green River. Lupe headed for the intersection of the Porcupine Trail and Lakeside Trail. To complete a loop around Lower Green River Lake, Lupe took the Lakeside Trail heading NNW near the W shore.

The Lakeside Trail was in forest much of the way. There were only a few spots with open views from the trail on this side of the lake. Most of the time, the Lakeside Trail stayed well above the shore.

An early evening view of Squaretop Mountain from Upper Green River Lake.

The mountain NE of Lower Green River Lake from the Lakeside Trail. Photo looks NE.

Flat Top Mountain from the Lakeside Trail along Lower Green River Lake. Photo looks E. — **Flat Top Mountain (11,823 ft.)** from the Lakeside Trail along Lower Green River Lake. Photo looks E.

White Rock from the Lakeside Trail along Lower Green River Lake. White Rock is the mountain just E of Upper Green River Lake. Photo looks SSE. — White Rock from the Lakeside Trail along Lower Green River Lake. White Rock is the mountain just E of Upper Green River Lake. Photo looks SE.

It was 7:52 PM (66°F) when Lupe reached the G6 again. After a glorious day along the Highline Trail to Beaver Park and back, she was ready for a whole can of Alpo before curling up with her blankie. Maybe someday she will return to explore further along the Highline Trail, or take the Porcupine Trail and find the way up Squaretop Mountain.

What was for certain was that her final big adventure of her great Summer of 2015 Dingo Vacation would start the next day. It would also take place in the Wind River Range of Wyoming.

Related Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 1: Green River Lakes to Porcupine Pass (7-13-17 & 7-14-17)

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 2: New Benchmark – Victory & Defeat! (7-15-17)

Striving for Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, WY – Part 3: The Dome Peak Salvage Operation (7-16-17)

Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 1: On the Highline Trail from Green River Lakes to Beaver Park (7-20-18)

Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Beaver Park to the Summit (7-21-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2015 Wyoming, Colorado & Utah Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.