This time Lupe was going to climb White Butte(3,506 ft.), the highest point in North Dakota (3,506 ft.), for sure! Back on June 25, 2014, Lupe and SPHP had come by on the way home from Lupe’s Dingo Vacation to the Kabekona Lake cabin in northern Minnesota, but SPHP had not been able to figure out how to gain access. SPHP was better prepared now, after reading trip reports and printing out topo maps from Peakbagger.com.
White Butte is located 6.5 miles S and 1 mile E of the tiny town of Amidon (pop. 20 in the 2010 census) in Slope County, roughly 45 miles NE of the SW corner of North Dakota. S of Amidon, Hwy 85 comes within 3 miles directly W of White Butte, but there is no easy access from the W.
To get to White Butte, Lupe and SPHP left Hwy 85 two miles E of Amidon turning S on a good, wide, gravel road. (There is a green and white street sign on the N side of Hwy 85 identifying this as “140 Ave SW”.) The road went straight S five miles to a crossroad marked at “69 ST SW”. White Butte was visible from this intersection about 2 miles to the SW.
White Butte (R) is seen 2 miles off to the SW upon reaching gravel road “69 ST SW” five miles S of Hwy 85 along “140 AVE SW”. Lupe and SPHP took “69 ST SW” one mile W to the start point for Lupe’s journey up White Butte.
Lupe and SPHP turned W (R) on 69 ST SW which was a much narrower gravel road, but still in good condition. 69 ST SW went straight W one mile to another intersection. There was a large old mailbox with crude fading lettering on it saying “White Butte turn here”, and a nice place for a couple of vehicles to park just beyond it. SPHP parked the G6 here at 4:27 PM (56°F).
Lupe reaches the big old mailbox at the intersection 1 mile W of AVE 140 SW along 69 ST SW. This is where her journey up White Butte began. Trip reports on peakbagger.com mention a mailbox where a donation could be placed to thank the landowner for allowing high pointers access to White Butte. SPHP was prepared to leave a donation in the mailbox, too, but found it was padlocked shut. Photo looks SW.
From this intersection where the big old mailbox was, a gravel road curved SW toward a farmstead. Another gravel road in similar condition to 69 ST SW went straight N. Lupe, however, needed to go S another 1.5 miles to get to White Butte.
Fortunately, there was also a dirt road going straight S from the mailbox along the W side of a fence line. This road was basically just an old pickup truck route through a pasture. Not something SPHP thought it would be wise to take the G6 over, besides which there was an elaborately painted “Road Closed” sign.
Lupe about to head S on the road to White Butte. Those dark spots are hay bales, not cows, much to Lupe’s disappointment.
The weather was unbelievably beautiful for February in North Dakota, in the mid 50’s °F with a light W breeze, as Lupe set out heading S along the old pickup truck route through the pasture. SPHP’s only concern was whether Lupe could get to the top of White Butte before sunset.
There was still some time before sundown, but not an awful lot. SPHP tried to hurry along. Lupe was unconcerned. She enjoyed trotting along on and off the road, while sniffing around. She liked being out of the G6, but was disappointed that there weren’t any cows around. The prospects for finding any squirrels looked pretty bleak, too.
After going nearly a mile S, Lupe came to a stand of big old leafless cottonwood trees just W of the dirt road. A short distance beyond the cottonwoods was a dilapidated old building. Lupe was at least half way to White Butte as she went on by.
Lupe about 0.75 mile N of White Butte. Photo looks S.
A little S of the dilapidated old building, Lupe came to a very small hill where another fenced-off field started on the W side of the road. From here on, the road continued S between barbed wire fences on both the E and W sides.
Lupe went over the small hill down into an area where the ground was pretty soft. Just W of the dirt road, and at virtually the same level, the field looked just plain swampy. Clearly, it wouldn’t take much rain or melting snow to turn the entire area into a sea of mud.
Lupe was getting really close to White Butte now. The road S ended at another fenced field directly ahead. There were “No Trespassing” signs on the fence. However, there was a gate near the end of the road giving access to the field to the W. Lupe and SPHP went through the gate.
Past the small hill there were fenced fields on both sides of the road. Looking S at White Butte.Lupe and SPHP went through this gate. The single track trail to the top of White Butte started on the other side of the gate. Photo looks SSW.
On the W side of the gate, a fairly well-traveled single track trail went S along the W side of the remaining fence line. By now, it wasn’t much farther to a hill where Lupe’s climb would begin. As Lupe got close to the hillside, there were some interesting badlands type formations off to the W.
The trail left the fence line to go around the W side of this first hill. There was a short section of trail that climbed fairly steeply up barren, crumbly badlands type terrain before reaching a small grassy area on top of the hill. The trail angled back E close to the fence again, traversed a little ravine and then turned sharply W. There was a dangerous downed barbed-wire fence following just S of the trail along here.
When the trail turned S again, SPHP picked Lupe up to get her over the dangerous barbed-wire fence. Just ahead, the trail divided as it crossed a larger grassy area. There was a small grove of trees mostly toward the left (E) track. The two tracks met up again before climbing up onto the ridge extending down to the N from the E end of White Butte.
Lupe going up the W side of the first little hill. She is on a short section of steep trail. Photo looks SSE.Here Lupe is already past the dangerous downed barbed-wire fence. She climbed up to the ridge line at the low saddle shown on the R. This is a very easy route up White Butte. Photo looks SSW.
There was a very short steep stretch of trail where there was some ice just before Lupe reached the crest of the ridge line, but Lupe and SPHP were soon past it without any problem. Just N of where Lupe reached the top of the ridge, there was a little rise. From the rise, there was a great view of the rest of the ridge extending off to the N.
Lupe’s route up along the trail was really quite easy. Trying to get up on the ridge line farther N would have made for a trickier ascent. Looking back to the S, the single track trail went up the W side of the next big hill onto the high ground NE of the summit.
Lupe on the little rise just N of where she gained the ridge line. The fence line Lupe followed to get here is seen way down on the prairie on the R.Lupe on the little rise near where she gained the ridgeline. Photo looks S at the last hill up to the high ground near the summit. The trail went up along the W (R) side of the hill on the L.
Now on the N ridge, Lupe went S following the trail up the last big hill. SPHP hadn’t really checked the maps carefully, and wasn’t sure how much farther the summit was to the SW. It wasn’t far at all. In just a few minutes, Lupe was standing on top of White Butte!
Lupe on top of White Butte, the highest point in North Dakota! Photo looks NE.The USGS Benchmark on White Butte.
At the summit were a number of items of interest. There was a cairn, a USGS Benchmark, a green metal box containing a red-covered notebook serving as a registry log and lots of pens, a long wooden box containing a hand trowel, and a metal marker for Lawrence P. Buzalsky (1935-1990). SPHP entered Lupe’s name into the registry log.Lupe had made it to the top of White Butte 20 minutes before sunset. After entering her name in the registry log, there was time for Lupe and SPHP to wander around taking a good look at the splendid 360° views.
Looking NE. The path Lupe came up is seen on the right.Looking N.Looking SE.Looking S.
Lupe and SPHP left the absolute summit to explore the summit ridge to its western terminus, which wasn’t far off. The views to the W were best from here. Lupe and SPHP watched the sun sink slowly behind long desolate ridges.
Looking NW from the W end of the summit ridge.Looking E back at the summit, which is seen on the L.Looking SW at High Point 3484.Looking NW using the telephoto lens.The N ridge of White Butte in the last rays of sunlight. Looking NE from the W end of the summit ridge.Looking W.Looking SW again at High Point 3484 as the sun is on the horizon.The sunset was unspectacular. There just weren’t many clouds around to show off the colors. Use of the telephoto lens was necessary to even capture this little bit of orange glow.
Once the sun went down, it was time for Lupe to start back to the G6. She returned briefly to the true summit along the way. From there, Lupe and SPHP wandered over to the E end of the summit ridge for another look before leaving White Butte.
Looking SW back at the summit as Lupe starts the journey back to the G6.Looking SE from the E end of White Butte.Lupe on the very NE end of the summit ridge. Photo looks N. The divided part of the trail is seen clearly down on the grassy area to the R.Lupe just before heading down.A final look to the W before Lupe’s descent.
The dead tan of the grasslands in late February added to the sense of barren remoteness seen in every direction from White Butte. White Butte felt desolate and forlorn. Still, what Lupe had seen from the top was a beautiful, wild and largely unspoiled part of the world.
Lupe’s trip to White Butte had been a very enjoyable success! If she had arrived a little bit earlier in the day, it would have been fun to go SW over to High Point 3484, and maybe spend some time poking around on the N ridge for a little while.
As it was, the light was fading quickly as Lupe headed back down the trail. More ranch lights appeared scattered across the prairie than SPHP would have expected. Stars twinkled faintly in the sky. Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a beautiful trek back across the prairie following the fence line N. Orion was shining in a dark night sky above White Butte when Lupe reached the G6 at 6:39 PM (43°F).
Just as SPHP was putting the backpack in the G6, Lupe heard the wild dogs. Coyotes were singing off to the N. Lupe listened very intently for the few minutes they called to her. Then she hopped into the G6 for the long ride home.
Lupe on the White Butte trail at twilight.
Access & Trail Notes: SPHP found some of the trip reports on Peakbagger.com a bit confusing as to the best access route to White Butte. There were also mentions in some reports of difficulties avoiding steep terrain. Lupe and SPHP found the following route to and up White Butte to be very straightforward and easy:
The tiny town of Amidon is near the W end of a 9 mile stretch of Hwy 85 that goes E/W. One mile E of Amidon is a road off Hwy 85 that goes straight S toward White Butte. There is a cemetery here by the highway on the SE corner of the junction. A sign says this road is closed, and the road to White Butte is one mile E. The sign is correct. Do not take the road going S from the cemetery. (Some who reported a long rough drive to White Butte probably took this road despite the road closed sign.)
Go another mile E on Hwy 85 to the next road going S (2 miles E of Amidon). There is a green and white street sign on the N side of Hwy 85 at this intersection saying this road is “140 Ave SW”. This is a good, wide gravel road and the best access route to White Butte, even though there is no sign along Hwy 85 saying so. Note your vehicle’s odometer reading as you turn S from Hwy 85. Follow 140 Ave SW going straight S.
Five miles S of Hwy 85 is a much narrower gravel crossroad. Again there is nosign saying anything about White Butte, but there is another green and white street sign on the SW corner of the intersection saying “69 ST SW”. Turn W (R) on 69 ST SW and follow it 1 mile to the first intersection where the big old mailbox is on the left. The roads were perfectly fine to this point. No high clearance vehicle is needed.
Park just beyond the mailbox and hike the pickup truck route about 1 mile S along the fence line to the gate. Go through the gate, and follow the obvious trail S and on up to the top of White Butte. There only a couple of short steep sections on the trail the entire way, and they are pretty easily traversed. There is nothing dangerous along the way except the downed barbed wire fence part way up that is laying across the trail. (Perhaps rattlesnakes during warm weather.)
SPHP has no idea why the mailbox was padlocked shut. Others reported leaving a donation to the landowners as a thank you for allowing access to White Butte, which is on private property. SPHP intended to, but didn’t since the mailbox couldn’t be opened.
Lupe and SPHP met no one, and saw no activity or lights at the farmstead SW of where the G6 was parked. Other trip reports which mention encounters with the landowners indicate that they are not opposed to high pointers crossing their property to reach White Butte. Lupe and SPHP encountered no “No Trespassing” signs posted on any of the land Lupe crossed, although there were some on adjacent fields.
Those who choose to ignore the “Road Closed” sign to follow the pickup truck route S will find it in pretty good shape much of the way to the gate. Even the G6 could have traversed much of it. However, if the ground is at all wet, this entire route would be very soft. Lupe doesn’t recommend trying to climb White Butte during wet weather, or any time when the ground is not either dry or frozen solid. The whole route would be a miserable mucky mess.
White Butte was a pleasant, easy hike with views well worth the modest effort – a very nice state high point, especially for those who love remote unspoiled places. Good luck!
Early on the morning of 7-31-13, the day after Lupe’s explorations up the glorious Berg Lake Trail to see Mt. Robson and Berg Lake, Lupe and SPHP headed S in the G6 back towards Jasper. It was the 23rd Day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation, and time to start the long drive back home. There wasn’t any huge rush though – there was still time for a few more great Dingo adventures along the way!
From Jasper, Lupe and SPHP continued S along the beautiful Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. SPHP stopped the G6 at a pullout a few km before reaching the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier. The pullout provided an excellent spot to admire the upper Sunwapta River Valley, and a portion of the Columbia Icefield beyond. At this point, the Sunwapta River is just a braided stream bearing little resemblance to the mighty river it becomes further N by the time it roars over Sunwapta Falls.
The Sunwapta River Valley & the Columbia Icefield from the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.Lupe wasn’t concentrating much on the view from the pullout along the highway. Instead she seemed plenty happy just hiding out in the lush foliage near the road.
While still in the area of the Columbia Icefield, SPHP thought it would be a good idea for Lupe to check out the Wilcox Pass Trail before leaving Jasper National Park. Just a few km S of the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier is a short gravel road on the E side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 which goes to the Wilcox Creek Campground. The Wilcox Pass Trailhead is located along this gravel road immediately before the road reaches the campground.
Wilcox Pass is only a 4 km hike from the trailhead, but until nearing the pass, most of the way the trail climbs pretty steeply. It starts off winding around through a forest, but the forest thins out about the time the trail comes around a bend and reaches the first stunning views of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding mountains.
The Athabasca Glacier comes into view along the Wilcox Pass Trail.The Dome Glacier (C) between Snow Dome(11,483 ft.) (L) and Mt. Kitchener(11,417 ft.) (R) from the Wilcox Pass Trail.Mt. Athabasca(11, 453 ft.) (L), Mt. Andromeda(11,286 ft.) (C) and the Athabasca Glacier (R) from the Wilcox Pass Trail.
There were lots of people on the trail. It was easy to understand why. The already amazing views became better and better as the trail continued climbing above the remaining forest. Eventually the trail reached the high point of Wilcox Pass, which proved to be at a very broad, gently sloping open area of heather dotted with small ponds and streams.
The trail continued NNW on over the pass to the E of Mount Wilcox, but the best views were clearly going to be towards the SW in the direction of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks. Lupe and SPHP left the pass heading that direction. Lupe loved the open high ground along the way. Pretty soon, Lupe and SPHP arrived at the edge of a ridge situated 1,400 feet above and just NE of the Icefields Center.
The views of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding snow-covered peaks from Lupe’s final perch were astonishing. Photos barely begin to convey the sense of height, space and frozen splendor inspired by the icy panoramic sweep of the towering mountains and gleaming white glaciers that met Lupe’s gaze from that high ridge. More of the dazzling Columbia Icefield shone brilliantly above the glaciers than Lupe and SPHP had ever seen before, yet even that was still just a tiny part of the whole. In an instant, the Wilcox Pass Trail became Lupe and SPHP’s favorite half-day hike in the Canadian Rockies or anywhere else.
Lupe at the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass.Mount Athabasca(11,453 ft.) from the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass.Mount Andromeda(11,286 ft.) & the Athabasca GlacierLupe stays alert while relaxing with Snow Dome(11,483 ft.) (L) and Mt. Kitchener(11,417 ft.) (R) in the background.This shot shows the Icefields Centre and Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 both 1,400 feet below the ridge.
Lupe and SPHP stayed at the edge of the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass for a long time. It seemed like a shame to ever leave, but time waits for no Dingo, nor even any Carolina Dogs. Fortunately Carolina Dogs are immensely practical. Lupe was in high spirits on the return trip from the SW ridge back across the heather to the Wilcox Pass Trail, and on down to the G6.
A last look at Snow Dome (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R) from near the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.
Lupe and SPHP resumed the drive heading S over Sunwapta Pass, the border between Jasper and Banff National Parks. The Wilcox Pass Trail had been so wonderful, SPHP had already started thinking about what else Lupe could still do this day. So, just 5.5 miles S of the pass, SPHP turned off the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to the Nigel Creek trailhead. The map at the trailhead showed that it was 7 km up to Nigel Pass. The first part of the trail was actually a continuation of the gravel road to the trailhead. Lupe and SPHP set off for Nigel Pass.
Lupe was quite ready for another adventure, but after trudging up the road 0.5 mile or so, SPHP realized it wasn’t really going to happen. After the 42 km round trip up to Berg Lake and Mt. Robson the previous day, and hardly a break after the climb up to Wilcox Pass, SPHP didn’t really have the steam left to continue – at least, not for a little while. It was time to rest. Lupe was surely puzzled when SPHP turned around and led her back to the G6. The beautiful drive S on the Icefields Parkway resumed.
Near the Waterfowl Lakes campground, SPHP parked the G6 again. SPHP still wanted to do something easy that Lupe would like. After a bit to eat, Lupe and SPHP walked through the campground and took the bridge over the lovely Mistaya River. Lupe followed the same trail she had just a few days before to Chephren and Cirque Lakes.
This trail gains very little elevation while proceeding through a dense forest. With the campground closed for the summer for repairs to the flood-damaged water system, no one was around. The trail was abandoned. It was a pleasant, easy stroll through the very quiet forest. At least, it had been quiet until an American Dingo arrived. Lupe found lots of squirrels to bark at along the way. Her excitement rang through the forest. She was having a most excellent time.
This time, the junction where the trail divides to go to either Chephren or Cirque Lake was as far as Lupe and SPHP went before turning around. Gradually twilight was coming on. The squirrels started hitting the hay. Slowly the darkening forest grew quiet again. By 10:00 PM, Lupe was back snoozing peacefully in the G6.
Did she dream about the scenic wonders of Wilcox Pass, or the squirrels in the forest? SPHP bet on the squirrels.
Lupe was back! The G6 was parked again at Victoria Lake Road near its intersection with Sheridan Lake Road. (8:37 AM, 59°F) Lupe had unfinished business – adventuring business – in the area.
A week ago, on Expedition No. 156, Lupe meant to climb Commissary Point and Tomaha Point, but due to a circuitous route chosen by SPHP involving climbing the wrong mountain, Lupe only made it to Commissary Point(4,590 ft.). Tomaha Point had eluded her. Now that the area was more familiar, Lupe was going to make another attempt to reach Tomaha Point(4,710 ft.).
Lupe was happy to be out in the Black Hills again. She was eager to hit the trail and begin exploring. It was an unbelievably beautiful day that was going to bring record-setting warmth for this date. Lupe and SPHP set out heading N on a single track trail. Tomaha Point was 4 miles to the NW.
Lupe was happy to hit the trail going N from Victoria Lake Road.
Lupe was having a blast sniffing and running around in the forest, but it didn’t last long. Within 5 or 10 minutes of starting out, she heard a loud bang. Gunfire! Lupe raced to warn SPHP. She was scared, and wanted to stop and hide. SPHP knew that Lupe wasn’t in any danger, but it was impossible to convince her of that.
The gunfire was going to continue. It was just people out target practicing. They would very likely keep at it for hours. If Lupe was ever going to get to Tomaha Point, she couldn’t wait for it to end. SPHP encouraged her to just stay close and keep moving. Lupe wasn’t buying it. She kept getting in SPHP’s way, standing on her hind legs and leaning against SPHP looking for reassurance, begging SPHP to stop.
SPHP petted Lupe and encouraged her, but tried to keep going. It was tough for both Lupe and SPHP. Lupe persisted in getting right in the way. SPHP persisted in trying to weave around her. The game went on and on. Every few minutes, so did the gunfire – sometimes just in single shots, other times in volleys. Occasionally it was quiet for longer periods, 5 or 10 minutes, but each time it started up again.
The trail N was a pretty easy path. Lupe and SPHP should have been making quick progress toward Tomaha Point, but the nervous Carolina Dog was slowing things down a lot. While dodging dingoes, SPHP missed a turn and wound up taking Lupe down into a valley W of the most direct route to Victoria Creek, which had to be crossed along the way.
Fortunately, the western trail also turned N and would eventually reach Victoria Creek, too. It went down into a little canyon, where there was still some melting ice on the trail. There were some interesting twisted rock formations along the way. At one point, a little spring bubbled above ground at the base of a twisted rock cliff.
Lupe stands near the spring at the base of the twisted rock cliff. There were more examples of similar twisted rock formations on the way through the canyon to Victoria Creek.
The melting ice was very slick. Most places there wasn’t any, but in a few places there were big ice flows where the water from the spring had gone over the trail and frozen. Lupe reached Victoria Creek at the end of the little canyon, about where SPHP expected to come out. A towering rock formation was right at the end of the little canyon.
At the towering rock formation where the little canyon ended at Victoria Creek. Except for some ice, Victoria Creek was dry here.
Victoria Creek was dry, except for some ice. Lupe followed a path near the creek continuing N until it reached a trail she had been on a week ago. Lupe and SPHP turned W on it, crossed a road going through the canyon, and followed the trail NW up a long ridge. At the far S end of a barren ridge SE of Commissary Point, Lupe left the trail and headed N.
Lupe had been along this route before, a week ago on her way to Commissary Point. This time, instead of continuing on the barren ridge to the E end of Commissary Point, she soon left the ridge and headed NW down into a big valley. All this time, well over an hour, Lupe had been hearing the relentless gunfire and begging SPHP to stop. Now that Lupe was just S of Commissary Point, the gunfire was finally far enough away to be faint enough so the poor Carolina Dog could relax.
In the valley S of Commissary Point. Lupe was finally getting far enough away from the gunfire to begin to relax. Photo looks N at the S side of Commissary Point.
Lupe found USFS Road No. 163 and took it going around the SW side of Commissary Point. The road turned N and headed down toward Dark Canyon.
SPHP knew from the topo map that Lupe was approaching a critical part of her journey to Tomaha Point. By far the easiest path to Tomaha Point was to go 0.5 mile W up Dark Canyon, then turn SW to enter a side canyon. She could follow the side canyon 0.25 mile to yet another side valley coming in from the NW. From the side valley she would have a pretty straight shot going NW up toward Tomaha Point.
It looked easy on the topo map, but there were two complications. Rapid Creek, the largest stream in the Black Hills, flows through Dark Canyon. A much smaller creek, Prairie Creek, flows out of the canyon to the SW down to its confluence with Rapid Creek in Dark Canyon. Either stream might well block the way for Lupe to follow this route through the canyons. In fact, it was rather likely. There might be bridges across Rapid Creek, but there wouldn’t be any bridges over Prairie Creek. Would Lupe find a way over or around the two streams?
She didn’t even get to find out. Approaching Dark Canyon, there was a big round steel bar gate across USFS Road No. 163. Signs said “Private Property” and “No Trespassing”. That was going to make things tough. Now Lupe couldn’t even try to find a way through Dark Canyon.
There was still one other possibility. SPHP had seen it on the topo map. USFS Road No. 163 was separated from the Prairie Creek canyon by a ridge almost 300 feet high, but there was one relatively low spot along the ridge. SPHP had already dubbed it Prairie Creek Pass. SPHP had been looking for it as Lupe came down USFS Road No. 163, but the ridge was so heavily forested, SPHP hadn’t seen the pass.
Instead of going back up No. 163 looking for a pass SPHP hadn’t been able to see before, Lupe and SPHP climbed directly up the ridge. It was steep, but Lupe made it up onto the ridgeline. Now Lupe could follow the ridgeline S looking for Prairie Creek Pass from above. First, though, Lupe still had to climb higher as the ridgeline went SW. In a few places, there were views of Commissary Point along the way.
Lupe reaches the ridgeline N of Prairie Creek Pass. Photo looks SE back at Commissary Point. Lupe had been up on those cliffs just 7 days ago on Expedition No. 156.
Even up on the ridgeline, it was a pretty steep climb as Lupe went SW up to the highest point N of Prairie Creek Pass. Beyond the high point it got much easier continuing S toward the pass.
Beyond the highest point on the ridge, Lupe had this view to the ESE of Commissary Point. From here it wasn’t much farther to Prairie Creek Pass.W face of Commissary Point.
Surprisingly, Lupe arrived at the top of some small cliffs up above Prairie Creek Pass. It wasn’t hard to find a way down to the pass, though. Before heading W down into Prairie Creek canyon, Lupe and SPHP scouted the E side of the pass. The forest was so dense, it really wasn’t possible to see much. It did look like Lupe could get back down to the E from here, though, if she came back this way.
The topo map showed that the canyon wall above Prairie Creek was steep. Cliffs were a definite possibility. SPHP hoped there would be a safe way down. If there wasn’t, Lupe would be stuck on the wrong side of Prairie Creek canyon. There was no other alternative route from here that would allow Lupe to reach Tomaha Point without searching for miles for another way through.
The topo map was right. The canyon wall was steep all the way to the bottom, but Lupe and SPHP made it down slowly and safely. There weren’t any cliffs. Another possibility had been that Prairie Creek would be deep and flowing swiftly along the base of the canyon wall, preventing Lupe from getting across. Fortunately, it appeared at first glance that the creek bed was totally dry. It turned out there was some water in the creek, but not much.
Success! Lupe had made it down to Prairie Creek from Prairie Creek Pass. It had taken a long time to get here, but she had made it to this remote spot. Apparently it wasn’t totally remote. There was a big chunk of metal rusting in the stream bed right where Lupe had come down. Why would anyone have brought it here? And how? It looked too heavy to pack out.
Lupe reaches Prairie Creek, which fortunately wasn’t much more than a trickle. The big piece of metal laying in the creek bed is seen just to the L of Lupe.
Lupe now needed to follow Prairie Creek 0.25 mile NW heading downstream. There, Prairie Creek would turn NE on its way to Dark Canyon, but Lupe should be able to continue NW up a side valley. With the creek so low, it seemed like it ought to be easy to reach the side valley.
It wasn’t. Going through Prairie Creek canyon was hard. A thick tangle of bushes, trees, deadfall timber, occasional boulders, and uneven ground made it very slow going for SPHP. Lupe, however, was able to scamper around the veritable jungle pretty well. The gunfire that had made her miserable earlier, was now forgotten. Lupe was having a great time!
Lupe down in one of the easier parts of “the Tangle” along Prairie Creek.
It took a long time for SPHP to force a way through “the Tangle” to reach the side valley coming in from the NW. Worse yet, the tangle continued up the side valley, too. No telling how far it went. In semi-desperation, SPHP looked up. It looked possible to climb up the NE side of the valley. If Lupe could get up to the ridge line, it might be a lot faster. A look at the topo map confirmed that this might work.
Lupe and SPHP made the steep climb. Lupe reached the ridgeline. It continued going up, steeply at first, but then more gradually as Lupe went NW along the ridge. The steep climb had been worth it. This was definitely better than fighting the endless tangle below!
Lupe is almost as happy as SPHP was to reach this ridgeline NE of the side valley. Photo looks NW.
When Lupe had reached the ridgeline, she was still nearly a mile SE of Tomaha Point, even though it seemed like hours and hours had gone by. Starting with the gunfire, there had been one obstacle after another. Now, though, Lupe was finally able to start making rapid progress.
Skirting to the S of a high point, Lupe came to a road! It was an old road, but it was level and grassy. There were a few little trees growing on it, but for SPHP it was the Autobahn compared to what Lupe had come through. The old road soon led to a 3-way intersection. Lupe took the branch that continued NW. A marker showed that this was USFS Road No. 772.1I. The road looked long abandoned, and eventually ended.
Lupe and SPHP left the end of the road climbing W up a forested hill. It wasn’t too far to another higher ridge. Pretty soon Lupe was up on that higher ridge and following it NW. She came to a fairly level spot with lots of young trees around and some big ones, too. There was a forested hill just beyond a saddle to the N. It didn’t look all that high, but it was definitely higher than where Lupe was. Off to the NE was a glimpse between the trees of Buzzard’s Roost(4,695 ft.).
Was the forested hill to the N Tomaha Point? The setup looked right, but the truth was, SPHP didn’t know for sure what Tomaha Point looked like. From Commissary Point a week ago, SPHP had tried to pick it out, but wasn’t certain which hill was it. There was a hill that looked like a likely candidate, but from a distance there had been other hills that were still possibilities, too.
Lupe and SPHP were going to find out. Lupe went down into the little saddle, crossed it, and started climbing. Near the top of the forested hill, she found a seldom used trail. It went around to the W side before turning up to the summit ridge. A short walk S along the narrow rocky ridge led Lupe to a little cairn sitting atop a bigger rock. From the views between the trees on the way up, SPHP was 100% convinced. This was it. Lupe had made it to the top of Tomaha Point!
Lupe on Tomaha Point. At last! The summit cairn is seen just above her head and slightly to the L.
Tomaha Point was too heavily forested for there to be clear views. Still, in some places there were little gaps between the trees. The relative positions of Buzzard’s Roost and Thrall Mountain(5,091 ft.), plus the sheer height of the very steep drop-offs to the E and W confirmed this was indeed Tomaha Point. From the top of the mountain, it was clear that there was nothing else around that could possibly be it.
The topo map shows that the Tomaha Point summit ridge runs N/S. The true summit is toward the S end, which was where Lupe found it. The N end of the ridge is lower. Lupe started going over there, but it was very windy and the faint trail in that direction passed next to some pretty steep terrain.
SPHP caught a glimpse of a very steep rocky spine running down to the E from the N part of the mountain. Yes, this was the same mountain SPHP had identified from Commissary Point. No need to go over to the N end. It looked a bit too treacherous. Lupe already had her Tomaha Point peakbagging success.
Buzzard’s Roost is the high point on the L. Looking NE from Tomaha Point.Thrall Mountain is the high point at center. Looking NW from Tomaha Point.Commissary Point is on the L. Looking SE from Tomaha Point.
Although it had been breezy up on other ridges, the SW wind was gusting up on Tomaha Point. Lupe’s trip here had been somewhat of an ordeal, but she had made it. A lot of time had been spent getting here, though. It would likely be dark before Lupe could get back to the G6. Lupe and SPHP left Tomaha Point and returned to the somewhat lower ridge across the saddle to the S.
SPHP stopped to look at the topo map and ponder which way Lupe should go back. There were two choices, back through the tangle and over Prairie Creek Pass, or explore to the S. If Lupe went S, she would have to find another way across a different part of Prairie Creek canyon, but then it would be a mile or less before she would reach a good road or trail.
Exploring S seemed like fun, but iffy. It would probably be OK, but what if it wasn’t? Wandering around lost in the dark would not be much fun. Better to just go back the same way, despite all the steep ridges, passes and tangles. At least the route was known. Lupe and SPHP headed back to the SE along the ridge.
Along the way, SPHP came up with a brainstorm. Instead of going back the exact same way, why not try another ridge leading down to Prairie Creek closer to Prairie Creek Pass? That way Lupe could avoid most of the tangle. It was brilliant!
Instead of going back to the Autobahn, Lupe and SPHP continued SE on another ridge farther S, losing elevation steadily along the way. After a little bit, a big rock outcropping loomed ahead, blocking the ridgeline. Lupe wasn’t going to be able to stay up on the ridge.
Time to make a choice about which valley to follow, the one to the SW or to the NE? Both valleys continued down to the SE. SPHP chose the SW one, since the valley farthest S should be Prairie Creek canyon.
Lupe about to reach the rock formation that forced her off the ridge. She went down to the right of it.
Lupe reached the bottom of the valley to the SW without losing much more elevation at all. Right away she was back in the tangle again. At least the creek was underground here. Hopefully Lupe wouldn’t have to go too far to get to the base of Prairie Creek Pass.
Lupe back down in “the Tangle” again searching for Prairie Creek Pass.
Prairie Creek canyon was a much narrower “V-shaped” valley here than farther down where the stream was above ground. The bottom of the valley was full of boulders of various sizes in the dry creek bed. As Lupe went around the big rock formation, the creek bed lost elevation rapidly. It continued to do so as Lupe and SPHP pushed on down the valley. During a big rain, the water gushing down this steep valley must become an absolute torrent full of waterfalls.
SPHP was hoping and expecting that Lupe would reach the base of Prairie Creek Pass soon. This time she should be approaching from the upstream direction. The tangle went on and on. Sometimes there were places where the NE side of the valley wasn’t as steep. Lupe and SPHP could gain a little elevation and temporarily escape the tangle. Each time, though, the terrain soon forced Lupe back down all the way to the creek bed again.
There hadn’t been any water at all in this steep valley at first, but after Lupe had lost quite a bit of elevation, there started to be signs she might soon reach water. She came to a big mossy rock that was dripping a little bit.
At the mossy rock. It was dripping a little water.
Near the mossy rock, Lupe found a few puddles where she could get a drink. Any time now, Lupe would reach a place where Prairie Creek would be above ground. Well, not really. Lupe and SPHP still had to push on farther through the tangle than SPHP expected before Lupe heard the sound of running water ahead.
Oh no! Could it be? It was. Lupe still wasn’t at the base of Prairie Creek Pass. SPHP was now certain where she was. SPHP recognized the big rock wall on the left. Near here, Lupe had climbed out of the start of the side valley on her way to Tomaha Point. She was back where the side valley met Prairie Creek Canyon. She hadn’t been coming down Prairie Creek Canyon at all!
That meant all the struggle Lupe had just been through to avoid the tangle had just been additional tangle. She now had to work her way upstream through the entire length of the same tangle she passed through going to Tomaha Point. The brilliant plan to avoid it, had failed. DOH!
No choice, but to press on through it. Lupe and SPHP set off going up Prairie Creek. When SPHP saw that Lupe was finally getting close to Prairie Creek Pass, SPHP tried another maneuver. The E canyon wall looked like it might be possible to start up here and angle up toward Prairie Creek Pass, getting Lupe out of the tangle a bit sooner than she otherwise would.
Lupe and SPHP started climbing. Within 30 seconds of starting to angle toward Prairie Creek Pass, the proposed route was blocked by a deep ravine going straight down. Lupe couldn’t go forward. Up or back down? Those were the only two choices. SPHP hated to lose the elevation again. It looked possible to go up. High above was some kind of a ridge where it looked like there might be some level ground.
Of course, it was steep. Why shouldn’t it be? Everything else was today. Lupe and SPHP started climbing. Lupe reached the top of the ridge. SPHP followed her up. SPHP was sweating. It sure was warm out for February! The top of the ridge was broad, flat and thickly forested. Sunlight filtered between the trees. It was nice here, so incredibly private.
SPHP found a log and sat down. Time for a break! Lupe agreed. Taste of the Wild, an apple, a chocolate and coconut granola bar, and lots of water all got consumed. At least the backpack was lighter now. For a little while, Lupe and SPHP just rested. It felt good.
Lupe seems happy to take a little break.
Lupe must nearly be as high as Prairie Creek Pass by now. Maybe there was a reasonably level route over to it?
No, of course not. Lupe made it most of the way to Prairie Creek Pass, but the canyon wall got too steep to be worth trying to go that way. Lupe had to climb clear up to the top of the higher part of the ridge. Fortunately, it wasn’t all that much higher. Lupe made a discovery along the way! She found a great Dingo den under an overhanging rock formation.
Lupe reaches her newly discovered secret Dingo den near Prairie Creek Pass. To her left, there was a little bit of a cave. It only went in a few feet farther, but would provide great protection in a storm.
It was still a little bit of a climb from Lupe’s secret Dingo den up to the top of the ridge. Lupe and SPHP had been up here earlier in the day. The rest of the way back to the G6 would be pretty easy. Lupe and SPHP went down into Prairie Creek Pass, and crossed it heading SE trying not to lose too much elevation.
A ravine eventually forced Lupe to go down to USFS Road No. 163 again. Along the way, Lupe found the bleached bones of a deer that met its end here. The deer had met its tragic fate some time ago. There was nothing left of it except the bones.
The deer bones as Lupe found them.
USFS Road No. 163 had been rather soft and mucky early in the day. The warm breeze had dried it out considerably by the time Lupe and SPHP reached it again. After all the obstacles Lupe had encountered, trudging up the road seemed extraordinarily easy.
Clouds started moving in from the SW, and the sunlight disappeared. The cool wind was blowing harder as Lupe regained elevation again. It felt good. SPHP began to get ideas. Lupe was just S of Commissary Point. SPHP could see a break in the cliff wall near the top toward the SE end of the mountain. Why not climb Commissary Point again?
Another steep climb. Lupe and SPHP emerged above the cliff wall near the S viewpoint that Lupe had been at on Expedition No. 156. The SW wind was really blowing up here! It started to sprinkle. Thunder! Really? A thunderstorm in the middle of February? What next?
Lupe and SPHP emerged up above the cliff wall toward the E end of Commissary Point near this S viewpoint. Lupe had been here on Expedition No. 156, too. This time there was a strong wind out of the SW, the clouds were spitting a little rain, and Lupe even heard thunder once! Photo looks S.
The wind blew hard. The clouds continued to spit a little rain, but there was no more thunder as Lupe and SPHP headed for the summit. Lupe liked it up here and raced around across the open ground and through the forest. Nearing the summit from the E, suddenly SPHP realized Lupe wasn’t there. Where had she gone? She had been here just a couple of minutes ago.
SPHP shouted for Lupe a couple of times. No Lupe. SPHP ran over to the N for a look at the terrain over there. She might have gone that way. Were there cliffs? No cliffs. That was good. SPHP shouted Lupe’s name over and over. More than a dozen times.
She always came, she always stayed near. Maybe Lupe had heard something, and had chased so far away after it she couldn’t hear SPHP in the wind? By now the sun had to be almost down. It would be getting dark soon. SPHP kept yelling for Lupe.
Suddenly, there she was! Racing as fast as she could up through the forest from the NE, here came Lupe! She was panting really hard. She must have come a long way. Maybe she had gotten turned around. Lupe had a huge drink of water, as SPHP welcomed the American Dingo back.
Lupe and SPHP returned to the summit of Commissary Point for the second time in a week. Nothing to see here in the forest. A quick, fuzzy photo and onward. Lupe and SPHP headed to the big viewpoint to the W. Just like a week ago, it was an absolute gale there. This time the wind was out of the SW instead of the NW. A few raindrops took aim at Lupe and SPHP just for fun.
Lupe returns briefly to the summit of Commissary Point! Photo looks W.
SPHP had hoped there would be a nice sunset, but there were too many clouds. The sun was hidden behind them. Or, maybe the sun wasn’t even up any more? The light was fading fast. It was still more than two miles back to the G6. Best to be moving on. Lupe and SPHP left the viewpoint heading E through the forest.
Lupe back at the W end of Commissary Point. Thrall Mountain is near the R side of this photo. Tomaha Point is closer and seen a bit to the left of Thrall Mountain. Photo looks WNW.Tomaha Point is the ridge L of Center. Thrall Mountain is the highest point on the R. Photo looks NW from Commissary Point. Taken with the telephoto lens.Lupe in the wind and light rain at the W end of Commissary Point.
When Lupe got back to the S viewpoint, SPHP was surprised to see there was a pink glow in the sky back to the SW. There was a bit of a sunset after all! Lupe posed in the gale for a shot with the sunset, but the camera wouldn’t pick up both. The sunset only appeared when using the telephoto lens. Sorry, Lupe! This is a sunset shot!
Sunset from the S viewpoint on Commissary Point. Photo looks, uh, well you know where the sun sets!
Lupe and SPHP left Commissary Point heading SE, and then S along the barren ridge where the helicopter had flown over exciting Lupe a week ago. It was almost dark out. Off to the ENE, Lupe could see the lights of Rapid City.
The way back to the G6 from the barren ridge was now familiar. Lupe still had one more little adventure when SPHP lost the faint trail once in the dark forest, but Lupe found it again before too long. At 6:58 PM (56°F), Lupe was back at the G6. Expedition No. 157 had lasted more than 10 hours. Despite the scary gunfire at the start, Lupe must have had a good time. She didn’t want to get in the G6 to go home yet.
So SPHP stretched out on the ground. Lupe laid down next to SPHP. She held her keen ears high. Her head darted back and forth, as she listened intently to noises in the forest. The sky was gray, not black, even though the sun was long gone. Once in a while, the moon shimmered briefly through thin clouds. Overhead, the pitch black outlines of the pines swayed in the still gusty SW wind.
Lights of Rapid City on the way back from Commissary Point, 2-18-16
Lupe had made it to the top of White Butte 20 minutes before sunset. After entering her name in the registry log, there was time for Lupe and SPHP to wander around taking a good look at the splendid 360° views.
