Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 166 – Sullivan Peak, Red Point & Twin Buttes (4-10-16)

What looked like the shortest, easiest route to the Triangle Park area on SPHP’s old USFS map hadn’t panned out.  The map showed an improved gravel road going WSW from the long abandoned Lauzon School at a sharp turn along County Road No. 769 (Dewey Road).  Instead, Lupe had arrived to find nothing but a faint dirt road heading W across a pasture.  It didn’t look like anything that would prove hospitable to the G6.

No problem, right?  Farther S was another possible, if longer, access route.  USFS Road No. 120 headed N from County Road No. 769 about 1.5 miles E of Dewey.  Actually, it was kind of a problem.  Although Lupe and SPHP drove almost all the way to Dewey, USFS Road No. 120 seemed to be another of the map’s fictions.  SPHP saw no sign of it.

A couple miles back to the E, there had been a flat little field where there was an old water tank and an older windmill.  Overhead a large power line ran E/W next to County Road No. 769.  There had also been a place to turn off the road and park.  The map, if it could be believed, showed that this was USFS land.  It seemed like the only realistic option, if Lupe was going to make it to Triangle Park.

So, Lupe’s Expedition No. 166 began from near the old water tank and windmill (9:50 AM, 47°F).  As the crow flies, Lupe was starting 3.5 miles S of Sullivan Peak (4,967 ft.).  As the Carolina Dog sniffs, it was likely to be considerably farther.  Sullivan Peak was one of 3 peakbagging objectives Lupe had around Triangle Park.

The first thing to do was to get up on the long, high ridge that extends S from Sullivan Peak almost all the way down to where Lupe was beginning her trek.  SPHP started hiking NW toward a low forested ridge at the W side of the field.  Right away there was trouble.  Lupe wasn’t coming.  Her nemesis was here!  There was cactus in the field.

SPHP returned to examine Lupe’s paws.  She was OK.  Somehow Lupe, knew cactus was around, though.  SPHP tried to persuade Lupe to follow very closely, so SPHP could help her avoid the cactus.  No luck.  The American Dingo just didn’t want to go.

Not a very good start, so far.  SPHP looked around.  There was a fair amount of cactus in this field.  SPHP decided to just carry Lupe over to the forest, which wasn’t too far away.  Lupe’s spirits rose a little in the forest, but she still didn’t want to move.  SPHP put her leash on her.  It worked!  Somehow, Lupe found the leash a bit comforting.  She started following SPHP.  The leash enabled SPHP to guide her around the cactus without mishap.

Lupe and SPHP headed N through the forest, climbing steadily up the low ridge.  The climb became steeper, but before too long Lupe reached the S end of a higher ridge.  The higher ridge was broad, grassy, and sloped gently up to the N.  The big field was rimmed with trees.  To the E there was a thin line of trees near the edge of a cliff.

Lupe, wearing her leash, reaches the S end of the first of the high ridges on her way to Sullivan Peak. A long cliff was just beyond the trees on the E (R) side of this field.
Lupe, wearing her leash, reaches the S end of the first of the high ridges on her way to Sullivan Peak. A long cliff was just beyond the trees on the E (R) side of this field.

SPHP hoped there wasn’t any cactus in the big field on the high ridge, but it was soon apparent there was.  Lupe had to stay on her leash, so she wouldn’t run into any of it.  Lupe and SPHP marched N near the E side of the field.  Sometimes there were places with big views to the E from the nearby cliffs.

Looking SE from the cliffs at the E side of the big field.

Near the N end of the field, Lupe found a road.  She was quite content to trot along the road, and not venture off it.  SPHP took her leash off.  The road went N beyond the field, passed by a small section of forest, and entered another big field that was more rolling and scenic.  Lupe and SPHP continued following the road N.  Maybe this was the fabled USFS Road No. 120 that would take Lupe close to Sullivan Peak?

After passing through the second big field, the road curved around to the E of a little hill before turning NW away from the cliffs.  From the little hill, another higher ridge could be seen to the N.  The higher ridge sloped gradually up to a much higher point than where Lupe was.  Maybe that was Sullivan Peak?

Looking N from the little hill beyond the N end of the second big field. Was that Sullivan Peak at the far end of the next higher ridge? Photo looks N.
Looking N from the little hill beyond the N end of the second big field. Was that Sullivan Peak at the far end of the next higher ridge? Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP left the road to stay close to the E edge of the ridge near the cliffs.  Lupe and SPHP climbed steadily, but the going was slow.  Off the road there was cactus.  Even with her leash on, sometimes Lupe wanted to be carried.  In some places, there was quite a bit of deadfall timber.  Lupe found herself at some pretty dramatic viewpoints as she gained elevation.

Gaining elevation! This photo looks back to the S at the big fields Lupe had come through.

The high ridge Lupe had seen from the little hill was NOT Sullivan Peak.  The ridge went farther and farther N.  Lupe came to big areas that had completely burned in a forest fire years ago.  The deadfall timber and cactus made for an icky, slow trek, but the views from ever higher along the cliffs became steadily more impressive.

Yet another higher ridge appears, even farther N! Maybe that bump up barely seen beyond the trees on the R was Sullivan Peak?
Yet another higher ridge appears, even farther N! Maybe that bump up barely seen beyond the trees on the R was Sullivan Peak?
Looking S back along the E cliffs at one of the areas Lupe passed through that had been devastated by a forest fire years ago. Even though the local area wasn't very pretty, the fire had really opened up the views!
Looking S back along the E cliffs at one of the areas Lupe passed through that had been devastated by a forest fire years ago. Even though the local area wasn’t very pretty, the fire had really opened up the views!

A big notch in the ridge forced the cliffs to bend around it to the W.  Going around the W edge of the notch, Lupe came to an area where the forest hadn’t burned.  Lupe was quite happy to find a road going through the living forest.  For a little while, she ran around without her leash again.

Happy Lupe on the road through the living forest. Photo looks NE.
Happy Lupe on the road through the living forest. Photo looks NE.

Soon this road going through the living forest turned NW, too.  Once again, Lupe and SPHP left the road to stay not too far from the cliffs to the E.  Lupe had to climb up through a section of rocky, moderately steeper terrain.  A little past where the ground leveled out again, Lupe came to another big burned area.  Finally, she had a view of the real Sullivan Peak!

Sullivan Peak (L) is finally in view! The high point on the right is the "bump up beyond the trees" seen in a prior photo. Photo looks N.
Sullivan Peak (L) is finally in view! The high point on the right is the “bump up beyond the trees” seen in a prior photo. Photo looks N.
Getting closer! Lupe just S of Sullivan Peak (L). Photo looks N.
Getting closer! Lupe just S of Sullivan Peak (L). Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP continued N through the devastated forest, with Sullivan Peak now within reach.  There didn’t seem to be any cactus around up here, so Lupe got to explore a little without her leash on.  She didn’t seem to think there was any cactus, either.  She ran around, expending a lot of energy leaping over all the dead trees.

Finally, Lupe was there!  She reached the top of Sullivan Peak.  The dead forest was ugly, but the resulting 360° views were wonderful!

Lupe reaches Sullivan Peak! Photo looks NE along the short summit ridge.
Lupe reaches Sullivan Peak! Photo looks NE along the short summit ridge.
Lupe on the highest rock on Sullivan Peak. Note the little round pin in the rock in front of her. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe on the highest rock on Sullivan Peak. Note the little round pin in the rock in front of her. Photo looks ESE.

There didn’t seem to be a survey benchmark, but a round metal pin somewhere between the size of a quarter and a half dollar had been cemented to the rock next to the highest rock on the mountain.

The metal pin is seen in front of Lupe’s right front paw. Photo looks E.
Lupe at the NE end of the summit ridge. Red Point, her next peakbagging goal, is the little forested hill seen directly above her in this photo. It looked so insignificant from Sullivan Peak, SPHP could hardly believe Red Point was a named peak. It didn't seem very red or pointy either! Photo looks NE.
Lupe at the NE end of the summit ridge. Red Point, her next peakbagging goal, is the little forested hill seen directly above her in this photo. It looked so insignificant from Sullivan Peak, SPHP could hardly believe Red Point was a named peak. It didn’t seem very red or pointy either! Photo looks NE.

When Lupe went over to see the view from the NE end of the summit ridge, it turned out there was a survey benchmark on Sullivan Peak after all!  It was located about 12-15 feet NE of the metal pin.

This survey benchmark was 12-15 feet NE of the previously seen round metal pin.
This survey benchmark was 12-15 feet NE of the previously seen round metal pin.
Lupe back on the very highest rock again. This photo looks S at the "bump up beyond the trees".
Lupe back on the very highest rock again. This photo looks S at the “bump up beyond the trees”.

Lupe and SPHP took quite a long break up on Sullivan Peak.  Lupe had water and Taste of the Wild.  SPHP enjoyed the views.  When SPHP got out a chocolate, coconut granola bar, Lupe was eager to help make it disappear!

There were lots of beautiful views from Sullivan Peak, but SPHP’s favorite was N toward Wildcat Peak (5,500 ft.), the Elk Benchmark (5,669 ft.), Twin Buttes (4,949 ft.) and Triangle Park.  Lupe seemed equally happy with all the views!

Lupe scrambled up on a high rock to add genuine American Dingo spirit to this look at Wildcat Peak (L of Center) and the Elk Benchmark (R of Center). Photo looks N from Sullivan Peak.
Lupe scrambled up on a high rock to add genuine American Dingo spirit to this look at Wildcat Peak (L of Center) and the Elk Benchmark (R of Center). Photo looks N from Sullivan Peak.
Twin Buttes (L of Center) and Wildcat Peak (R). Triangle Park is seen below on the L. Photo looks NW.
Twin Buttes (L of Center) and Wildcat Peak (R). Triangle Park is seen below on the L. Photo looks NW.

Lupe’s next peakbagging goal was Red Point (4,680 ft.) at the E end of Triangle Park.  She had seen it far below from the NE end of the summit ridge on Sullivan Peak.  Red Point looked so small and insignificant, SPHP was amazed it was even a named peak.  It was just a small hill compared to Sullivan Peak, and it wasn’t even red or pointy.  Nevertheless, Lupe and SPHP headed N down to Triangle Park to go visit Red Point.

An American Dingo high up in its rocky Sullivan Peak fortress, shortly before descending to go see Red Point, a small green forested hill on the E edge of Triangle Park. Lupe and SPHP both thought Sullivan Peak looked way more like a Red Point than the actual Red Point did! Photo looks E.

When Lupe made it down to Triangle Park, she had to cross part of the huge field to reach Red Point.  Once again, Lupe sensed cactus.  SPHP had to use the “checking the maps technique” developed on Expedition No. 165 to get Lupe to come.  It worked again!  Lupe came racing across the big field.

It only took 5 or 6 minutes to climb Red Point.  From a grassy open spot on the S side of Red Point, Sullivan Peak loomed high above.

Lupe appears every bit as pleased to reach the summit of Red Point, as any other mountain. Photo looks ENE.
Lupe appears every bit as pleased to reach the summit of Red Point, as any other mountain. Photo looks ENE.
Sullivan Peak (Center) from Red Point. Photo looks S.
Sullivan Peak (Center) from Red Point. Photo looks S.

Lupe’s 3rd and final peakbagging goal for the day was Twin Buttes (4,949 ft.), about a mile to the WNW on the other side of Triangle Park.  As Lupe left Red Point to head over there, she became very excited.  She saw a huge herd of “Giant Deers” (elk)!  The Giant Deers had already seen Lupe and SPHP, too.  They were beating a hasty retreat N into the trees and out of sight.

The last of the big elk herd disappears into the trees by an even smaller hill N of Red Point. Photo looks N.
The last of the big elk herd disappears into the trees by an even smaller hill N of Red Point. Photo looks N.

The Giant Deers were gone in just a few seconds.  Lupe and SPHP continued WNW across Triangle Park aiming for a ridge to the right of a high point E of Twin Buttes.  There was a very faint road, which gave Lupe all the confidence she needed to cross most of the field on her own.  However, when it ended at an intersection with a better road entering Triangle Park from the NE, she wanted to be carried again.

On the way across the NE end of Triangle Park to Twin Buttes. The high point pictured is just E of Twin Buttes. Lupe and SPHP eventually climbed the ridge on the R side of this photo. Photo looks WNW.

Since it wasn’t much farther to the base of the ridge, SPHP carried Lupe over there.  She was happy again climbing the ridge under her own power.  Up on top of the ridge, there was a road that went SW between Twin Buttes and the high point to the E.  The summit wasn’t far away!  Lupe didn’t hesitate, even when it was time to leave the road.  Lupe climbed right to the top of Twin Buttes.

Climbing from the E, Lupe had reached the summit of the highest of the Twin Buttes right away.  The E butte gradually lost elevation along a long summit ridge as it went W.  It was clear the views would be best from there.  Lupe and SPHP trekked over to the W end of the summit ridge.  The view was really awesome!  Lupe could see far into Wyoming.  The border was less than 2 miles away.

Lupe at the W end of the highest (easternmost) of the Twin Buttes. The high point of the lower W Butte is visible on the R. The small lake on the L is M.W. Lake in Wyoming. Photo looks WNW.
Lupe at the W end of the highest (easternmost) of the Twin Buttes. The high point of the lower W Butte is visible on the R. The small lake on the L is M.W. Lake in Wyoming. Photo looks WNW.

Although the lower W butte was in view not too far away, there didn’t seem to be any reason to go over there.  The view was better from the higher W end of the E butte.  After peering far into Wyoming, Lupe and SPHP went back to the true summit at the E end of the easternmost of the Twin Buttes.  At the high point, Lupe and SPHP took another break.  Once again, Lupe was most helpful when another chocolate, coconut granola bar was foolish enough to make its appearance.

Looking W back along the summit ridge of the higher E butte of Twin Buttes.
Looking W back along the summit ridge of the higher E butte of Twin Buttes.
Wildcat Peak (L of Center) and Elk Benchmark (R) from Twin Buttes. Photo looks N.
Wildcat Peak (L of Center) and Elk Benchmark (R) from Twin Buttes. Photo looks N.
Sullivan Peak (Center) and Triangle Park from Twin Buttes. Photo looks SE.
Sullivan Peak (Center) and Triangle Park from Twin Buttes. Photo looks SE.
Looking W along the summit ridge of Twin Buttes from the actual high point.
Looking W along the summit ridge of Twin Buttes from the actual high point.
While Lupe and SPHP were still relaxing at the highpoint of Twin Buttes, the Bluebird of Happiness came to pay a visit. Photo taken with telephoto lens.
While Lupe and SPHP were still relaxing at the highpoint of Twin Buttes, the Bluebird of Happiness came to pay a visit. Photo taken with telephoto lens.

While Lupe and SPHP were still relaxing at the highpoint of Twin Buttes, the Bluebird of Happiness came to pay Lupe a visit.  Lupe and SPHP did feel happy, even after the Bluebird of Happiness flitted onward to parts unknown.  Lupe and SPHP left the summit to go take a look at the world from the high point just to the E of Twin Buttes.

Triangle Park and Sullivan Peak (R) from the high point E of Twin Buttes. Photo looks SE.
Triangle Park and Sullivan Peak (R) from the high point E of Twin Buttes. Photo looks SE.
The summit of Twin Peaks as seen from the high point to the E. Photo looks W.
The summit of Twin Peaks as seen from the high point to the E. Photo looks W.
Red Hill (L) is buried in the green trees. Photo looks SE from the high point E of Twin Buttes.
Red Hill (L) is buried in the green trees. Photo looks SE from the high point E of Twin Buttes.

It was a long way back to the G6, and the sun was saying it was time to start heading back.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the road between Twin Buttes and the highpoint to the E.  SPHP’s old USFS map said this must be USFS Road No. 118.  It would eventually tie in to No. 120 more than a mile SW of Sullivan Peak.

Lupe and SPHP followed No. 118 SW only partway down a ridge on the W side of Triangle Park.  Then Lupe and SPHP left the road, turning SE to get down there more quickly.  Once down in Triangle Park, Lupe continued SE straight for Sullivan Peak.  She passed by a little to the E of a pond at the W end of Triangle Park.

Lupe knew there was cactus around.  Even so, she was OK trotting along some faint animal trails.  SPHP only had to carry her for a final short stretch to the base of Sullivan Peak when the last animal trail faded away.  Lupe climbed all the way back up to Sullivan Peak under her own power, completing her 2nd ascent of the day!

Lupe back up on Sullivan Peak for a 2nd time. Photo looks N toward Wildcat Peak (L of Center) and Elk Benchmark (slightly R of Center).
Lupe back up on Sullivan Peak for a 2nd time. Photo looks N toward Wildcat Peak (L of Center) and Elk Benchmark (slightly R of Center).

Although it was getting sort of late, Lupe and SPHP lingered for a little while on Sullivan Peak again.  The splendid views were hard to leave behind.  It was time to go, though, and there was a need for some speed.

Lupe and SPHP left Sullivan Peak heading S, retracing the last part of the route Lupe had first taken there.  By now, SPHP was convinced that the first road Lupe had reached early in the day really was USFS Road No. 120.  As soon as she reached it again, Lupe and SPHP got on it and stayed on it almost all the way back.  Traveling the road was a lot faster than trying to dodge cactus and burned out forests.

Since No. 120 mostly stayed well to the W of the cliffs along the E edge of the high ridges Lupe was on, she didn’t get to see the same big views as earlier in the day.  However, it was still a beautiful evening trek beneath blue sky and white clouds sailing by overhead.  Lupe was happy being on the road.  She enjoyed trotting along sniffing the air.  Much of the time, it was possible to see far to the SW into Wyoming.

Back near the S end of the big field on the last high ridge, No. 120 turned SW into the forest, just as SPHP’s old USFS map indicated it would.  It would have been fun to see where it came out, but following No. 120 to the end would have added another 0.75 mile just to reach County Road No. 759 (Dewey Road) again, plus an extra 0.75 mile backtracking on No. 759.

Leaving the last high ridge, Lupe wanted to be carried to avoid the cactus.  SPHP carried her down, but didn’t stay far enough E to find the most direct route back to the G6.  As a result, the terrain ended up forcing Lupe almost straight S until she reached No. 759.  An easy, cactus free stroll to the E for 15 minutes on No. 759 brought Lupe back to the G6 (7:38 PM, 47°F).

Lupe’s Expedition No. 166 turned out to be a big success!  Red Point had been a bit disappointing, but both Sullivan Peak and Twin Buttes had been wonderful.  Even though they aren’t particularly high peaks for the Black Hills, their remote location near Triangle Park on the far SW edge of the Black Hills made them both dominating high points.  The forest fires, which made the peaks themselves rather ugly, had totally opened up the panoramic views.

Lupe didn’t think about any of that.  She was ready to go!  The sun was down, but the sky was still light.  Lupe rode joyously in the G6 standing with her head out the window, tongue hanging in the breeze.  She let every cow, horse, deer, and haystack she passed along the long, winding gravel road know that an American Dingo coming through!Lupe on Twin Buttes, 4-10-16Links:

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 165 – Matias Peak & Cicero Peak (4-4-16)

Lupe was on her way home from her adventures in western Nebraska.  It wasn’t the end of her adventures on this trip, though.  There was still time for one of Lupe’s Black Hills, SD Expeditions on the way!  As Hwy 18 climbed into the southern hills NE of Edgemont, SPHP was looking for USFS Road No. 379.  Lupe was going to climb Matias Peak (4,780 ft.).

Before reaching the top of the long hill, SPHP spotted a road heading into the trees on the N side of Hwy 18.  There was room to park the G6 there, too.  (11:52 AM, 59°F)  Good!  This was it, USFS Road No. 379!  A marker proved it.  Matias Peak was no more than 2 miles away as the crow flies.  SPHP’s old USFS map showed no road to it, but No. 379 was supposed to get within a mile SW of the summit.

Lupe and SPHP set out on No. 379.  Instead of heading NNE toward Matias Peak, the road wound its way downhill into a dry canyon to the WNW.  Once it reached the bottom of the canyon, No. 379 turned N and started back uphill.  Soon Lupe came to an unmarked intersection.  She took the right branch, which led NE.

Lupe hadn’t followed the right branch very far when Matias Peak came into view at a minor pass.

Matias Peak in the southern Black Hills as seen from a minor pass along USFS Road No. 379. Photo looks NE.
Matias Peak in the southern Black Hills as seen from a minor pass along USFS Road No. 379. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP stayed on No. 379, and went over the pass.  Lupe had already lost 100 feet of elevation when SPHP realized No. 379 was going turn NW away from the mountain and continue losing elevation.  A look around at the terrain showed it would have been better to leave the road back at the pass.  From there, Lupe could climb the ridge to the E.

Lupe and SPHP turned around and returned to the pass.  Lupe left No. 379 and started climbing.  Soon she was a very unhappy Carolina Dog.  There was cactus!  Lupe didn’t want to go this way.  She sat down and wouldn’t move.  She lifted a front paw pathetically begging SPHP for help and mercy.

SPHP checked her paws.  She didn’t seem to have cactus spines in any of them.  SPHP knew her paws weren’t really that sore.  Just a couple of hours ago, she had been racing around having a great time at Toadstool Geological Park in Nebraska.  Maybe she could smell the cactus?

In any event, whether Lupe had stepped on any or not, it was clear she knew cactus was around.  She wanted to go back to the road, or be carried.  The road wasn’t going to take Lupe to Matias Peak.  Going back meant giving up.  On the other hand, Matias Peak was still 1.5 miles away.  SPHP wouldn’t be able to carry her that far, and then all the way back again.

For a couple minutes, Lupe rested while SPHP pondered.  Well, let’s try it and see how it goes.  There’s quite a bit of forest, and there shouldn’t be much cactus in the forest.  SPHP picked Lupe up and started carrying her on up the ridge.  SPHP tried to stay in the forest as much as possible, but there were still sunny little openings harboring more cactus.

Where there were boulders, Lupe was willing to scramble up on her own power for short stretches.  Mostly SPHP had to carry her.  After a somewhat steep, rocky section, Lupe and SPHP reached the flat top of the ridge.  There was a nice view to the N.

Looking N.
Looking N.

Well, at least some progress had been made.  SPHP hoped that this ridge would just sweep around to the NE right on up to Matias Peak.  For a while it looked promising as SPHP carried Lupe E along the top of the ridge.  It all ended at a big steep drop.  SPHP put Lupe down and told her to stay, a completely unnecessary command.  She wasn’t about to budge.

SPHP scouted around looking for a view between the trees.  Low cliffs were just ahead.  Down below was a large field.  On the other side was another forested ridge.  That was probably the ridge that would lead N to Matias Peak.  SPHP returned to Lupe.  Time for a water and rest break!

SPHP studied the topo map printed out from Peakbagger.com.  It was a bit confusing at first, since the topo map was too old to show the correct location of Hwy 18, where Lupe and SPHP had started from.  In a few minutes, though, SPHP was pretty certain where Lupe was.  She was now at the E end of a small ridge marked toward the W end as 4,355 ft. elevation.  Lupe needed to cross the field down below, and head NE toward the next ridge.  That ridge would lead her N to Matias Peak.

It took a long time.  SPHP carried Lupe down off the ridge, finding a way down toward the S.  Then it was a long trek in the sun carrying Lupe across the field.  However, Lupe was willing to climb the far ridge on her own.  SPHP just kept an eagle eye out to help her avoid the occasional cactus.

Once up on the ridge, it was a steady climb, but a fairly gradual one most of the rest of the way up Matias Peak.  There were small cliffs on the W side of the ridge, which provided very nice viewpoints in that direction in many places.  Most of the time, Lupe and SPHP stayed near the cliffs to enjoy the views.

Looking WSW from the S ridge leading up to Matias Peak. USFS Road No. 379 can be seen coming down through the trees on the L. (That's the part of it Lupe and SPHP did not continue on beyond the pass. The pass is near the L edge of this photo.) Wyoming is on the horizon!
Looking WSW from the S ridge leading up to Matias Peak. USFS Road No. 379 can be seen coming down through the trees on the L. (That’s the part of it Lupe and SPHP did not continue on beyond the pass. The pass is near the L edge of this photo.) Wyoming is on the horizon!
Lupe relaxes on one of SPHP's many rest breaks going up Matias Peak.
Lupe relaxes on one of SPHP’s many rest breaks going up Matias Peak.

SPHP took many rest breaks on the way up Matias Peak.  Lupe would never have made it to the top, except for the gradual development of a technique Lupe seemed willing to go along with, despite her trepidation over the scattered cactus.

The technique went as follows: SPHP carried Lupe for a little way, and then put her down.  SPHP then left without her, continuing on up the mountain, scouting around to make sure there wasn’t any cactus along the way.  Lupe always watched with concern as SPHP marched off, but she wouldn’t move.

After going a suitable distance, SPHP would stop, turn around and shout back to Lupe that it was “time to check the maps”.  Lupe seemed to take this to mean that SPHP had somehow magically eliminated all the cactus in her way.  She immediately came running full tilt to catch up.

Of course, Lupe knows what checking the maps normally involves, so SPHP had to actually sit down, get out the maps and take a look at them for a few minutes each time.  Then it was time to carry Lupe for another stretch, before putting her down again.  Rinse and repeat.  Over and over.  It was slow, but not nearly as slow as trying to carry Lupe the entire distance.

Fortunately, Lupe never did run into any cactus.  She continued to believe in the power of checking the maps.  As Lupe and SPHP got nearer the summit, an unmarked dirt road appeared, temporarily curving closer to the W from somewhere off to the SE.  Lupe was perfectly willing to trot along without fear on this road.  Lupe and SPHP began to make rapid progress toward the summit.

Near the end of the climb, Lupe had to leave the road again, which now curved back around to the E of the summit.  The field to the NW had quite a bit of cactus in it, especially higher up.  SPHP went back to carrying Lupe all the time, but it wasn’t too far to the forest at the base of the final short steep climb to the summit.

There didn’t seem to be any cactus around on the final stretch up through the rocks and trees.  Lupe climbed up under her own power.  The top of Matias Peak is a flat forested ridge of moderate length running SW/NE.  Lupe found the very highest rocks to be somewhat closer to the NE end.

Lupe makes it to the top of Matias Peak! She is standing next to the very highest rock. There were a couple of other rocks around almost as high, one of which is the rock in the foreground. Photo looks NE.
Lupe on another rock contending for the highest point on Matias Peak. This one was a bit to the W of the other two, and had a view off to the WNW in the general direction of Pilger Mountain (4,788 ft.).

Lupe and SPHP were pleased to find that although the entire summit ridge was forested, there were several good viewpoints from Matias Peak.

Parker Peak (4,848 ft.) (Center) is the high point of Fall River County. Photo looks SE.
Parker Peak (4,848 ft.) (Center) is the high point of Fall River County. Photo looks SE.
Looking SSE at a truck going over a bridge on Hwy 18. It turned out there was a much easier route up Matias Peak than the one Lupe and SPHP took starting out on USFS Road No. 379. The easier route begins on an unmarked dirt road that leaves Hwy 18 from the big flat grassy area seen to the R of the bridge. This is the same road that Lupe and SPHP encountered not far from the summit.
Looking SSE at a truck going over a bridge on Hwy 18. It turned out there was a much easier route up Matias Peak than the one Lupe and SPHP took starting out on USFS Road No. 379. The easier route begins on an unmarked dirt road that leaves Hwy 18 from the big flat grassy area seen to the R of the bridge. This is the same road that Lupe and SPHP encountered not far from the summit.
The best view from Matias Peak was toward Wildcat Peak (5,500 ft.) (L of Center) and Elk Benchmark (5,669 ft.) (R). Photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.
The best view from Matias Peak was toward Wildcat Peak (5,500 ft.) (L of Center) and Elk Benchmark (5,669 ft.) (R of Center). Photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.

Lupe and SPHP lingered up on Matias Peak for a while.  When it was time to go, Lupe’s confidence had returned to the point where she was running around like normal in the forest.  She came down off the short steep part at the SE end of the summit under her own power.  However, when she reached the grassy area where SPHP had seen quite a few cactus on the way up, SPHP insisted on carrying Lupe the rest of the way down to the dirt road.

Rather than retrace Lupe’s scenic, but slow approach route, SPHP decided Lupe should just stay on the dirt road to see where it went.  Lupe didn’t worry about cactus while on the road, but was still cautious enough not to make forays off to either side.  SPHP didn’t have to carry Lupe at all.

The dirt road wound around a little bit, but eventually straightened out and headed due S across open fields.  It reached Hwy 18 at the top of the long hill NE of Edgemont just W of a bridge over a deep ravine.  There was a big paved pullout on the N side of Hwy 18 where the dirt road reached it.  Even at the highway, the dirt road wasn’t marked with any sign or number.

If Lupe and SPHP would have started up Matias Peak from this point, instead of on USFS Road No. 379, Lupe would have had a much easier, though less scenic time reaching the summit.  The dirt road headed almost straight toward the summit gaining elevation at an easy pace.  Only the last little part of the climb would have been off the road.

At the pullout on the N side of Hwy 18 where the easiest and most direct route to Matias Peak (seen in the background) begins. Photo looks N.

The last part of the return trip from Matias Peak was a not-so-fun trek W along busy Hwy 18 for about 0.75 mile as the highway slowly curved SW.  It was all a gradual downhill slope, which was fortunate, since Lupe wanted to be carried part of the time.  SPHP had to oblige.

Lupe didn’t like the highway traffic, or the scattered cacti and broken glass waiting for her on the shoulder and in the ditch.  SPHP was in complete agreement.  Both Lupe and SPHP were quite happy when the G6 finally came back into view (4:17 PM, 70°F).

Before completing the drive home, Lupe had one final mission.  When Lupe’s trip to western Nebraska had started just 2 days ago, the last peak Lupe had climbed with new friend Jobe Wymore before leaving the Black Hills was Cicero Peak (6,166 ft.).  SPHP had been so interested in Jobe’s mountaineering stories, SPHP had forgotten the camera case up on top of the mountain.  Now Lupe was going to go back up Cicero Peak to see if it was still there.

SPHP parked the G6 at the start of USFS Road No. 338 (Cicero Peak Road) (4:55 PM, 60°F).  Somehow Lupe knew right away.  Maybe the air smelled different.  Maybe she remembered from being here before.  However she knew, Lupe was certain there wasn’t any cactus here!  Suddenly she was free to race happily through the forests again without a care in the world.

Lupe explored, while SPHP hiked the 1.5 mile road back up to the summit of Cicero Peak.  It was a gradual, easy climb.  Near the top, Lupe discovered what may be the last snow she will find in the Black Hills this spring.  There wasn’t much left, and the snow was melting fast, but it was clear Lupe loved it.  She ate big mouthfuls.  She rolled on it to cool off.  The snow tasted and felt great!

Ahh, snow! Feels and tastes so great!
Ahh, snow! Feels and tastes so great!

As Lupe neared the summit, the question was, would the camera case still be there?  SPHP wasn’t even completely certain that was where it had been left behind.

Lupe reaches the tower on top of Cicero Peak. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe went around to the highest rocks just W of the summit tower.  Sure enough, Lupe found the camera case laying among the highest rocks!  The carrying strap looked like a squirrel had nibbled on one edge of it.  The squirrel hadn’t done it much harm, though.  Apparently camera case carrying straps lack that nutty taste squirrels crave.

Lupe finds the camera case resting among the summit rocks of Cicero Peak, right where SPHP had left it 2 days earlier. A squirrel had chewed the strap a little, but had done little damage.
Lupe finds the camera case resting among the summit rocks of Cicero Peak, right where SPHP had left it 2 days earlier. A squirrel had chewed the strap a little, but had done little damage.

Finding the camera case again made Lupe’s Cicero Peak mission a complete success!  All that was left was the descent back down the mountain.

On the way down, Lupe saw smoke from a forest fire to the SE.  She saw Matias Peak, where she had just been, looking small and insignificant far away on the S edge of the Black Hills.  She glimpsed the strange rock to the NW that Lupe and SPHP know as “Cracked Molar” (officially Beecher Rock?).  Sharp-eyed Jobe had noticed it two days ago.

Smoke from a forest fire (L) somewhere not too far SE of Cicero Peak.
Smoke from a forest fire (L) somewhere not too far SE of Cicero Peak.
Matias Peak (L) from Cicero Peak using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.
Matias Peak (L) from Cicero Peak using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.
The rock Lupe and SPHP know as "Cracked Molar" is probably officially Beecher Rock. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
The rock Lupe and SPHP know as “Cracked Molar” is probably officially Beecher Rock. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

The thing that made Lupe happiest, though, was seeing, tasting, and feeling the last of the cold melting snow one more time.Lupe coming down Cicero Peak, 4-4-16

Links:

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Toadstool Geologic Park, Nebraska (4-4-16)

The thin yellow-orange crescent of the dying moon hung low in the eastern sky.  Overhead, the Milky Way stretched across the dark heavens.  Birds were already singing, though.  Dawn was coming.  A faint light was already discernable on the horizon.  In the darkness, Lupe sniffed around the huge vacant parking lot of the scenic overlook on the S side of Hwy 20 E of Harrison, Nebraska.

Lupe and SPHP weren’t sleepy, but there wasn’t any sense in leaving before it was light out.  Lupe had come to see what was here.  It would be light out soon enough.  Back in the G6 for another restless hour.  SPHP finally dozed a bit and woke up to find Lupe wide awake, and the sun about to rise.

Sunrise from the scenic overlook on the S side of Hwy 20 in western Nebraska.
Sunrise from the scenic overlook on the S side of Hwy 20 in western Nebraska.
Sunrise a few minutes later from Hwy 20 approaching Fort Robson State Park.
Sunrise a few minutes later from Hwy 20 approaching Fort Robson State Park.

Within a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP were heading E on Hwy 20 toward Crawford, Nebraska.  It was a gorgeous morning for a drive.  Fort Robson State Park was still closed when Lupe passed through.  Nearing Crawford, Lupe stopped briefly at a golf course with a great view of Saddle Rock, one of the Red Cloud Buttes.

Lupe likes chasing balls, but she isn’t much into golf. She still stopped at this golf course W of Crawford due to the great view of Saddle Rock, part of the Red Cloud Buttes. Photo looks WNW.

Four or five miles N of Crawford, SPHP left Hwy 2/71 turning left on Toadstool Road.  The gravel road was in fairly decent shape.  It went W a couple miles before following the Burlington Northern railroad NW.  Lupe had a blast riding with her head out the window in the wind.  She barked with great vigor and enthusiasm at mostly unimpressed cows and horses along the way.

SPHP spotted an interesting mountain a few miles to the W.  It looked like a great peakbagging goal for Lupe on a future trip.  SPHP had no idea what mountain it was.  A check of the maps later on revealed it is called Roundtop (4,540 ft.).

SPHP thought the mountain L of Center looked like an interesting possible future peakbagging goal for Lupe. A check of the maps later on revealed it is most likely Roundtop (4,540 ft.).
SPHP thought the mountain L of Center looked like an interesting possible future peakbagging goal for Lupe. A check of the maps later on revealed it is most likely Roundtop (4,540 ft.).

After following the railroad for 10 or 11 miles, Lupe reached a turn to the W for Toadstool Geologic Park.  It was a little over a mile to the campground.  Lupe was soon there.  Not another soul was in sight, which was just perfect!  Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look around.

Lupe at the entrance to Toadstool Geological Park in western Nebraska's badlands. A sod home is seen on the L.
Lupe at the entrance to Toadstool Geological Park in western Nebraska’s badlands. A sod home is seen on the L.

Toadstool Geologic Park has 6 campsites with covered picnic tables, fire rings, grills, and plenty of flat grassy land to pitch a tent on.  There was a restroom, too, but that was it for amenities.  There were no trees to provide shade, and no water or electricity.  On the bright side, this time of year there weren’t any fees, either.  The flat, exposed campground was next to stark, but beautiful badlands territory just to the W.

Before checking out the badlands on the Fossil Loop Trail, Lupe went to take a look at the campground’s sod house.  A sign said the sod house had been constructed in 1984 as an example of the homes pioneers lived in on the prairie.  Lupe went inside, but it didn’t take her long to check out the only amenities, which consisted of four walls and a roof.  Life used to be extremely hard on the prairie!

Lupe on a little mound near the sod house. Photo looks SSW at some of the fossil rich badlands at Toadstool Geological Park.
Lupe on a little mound near the sod house. Photo looks SSW at some of the fossil-rich badlands at Toadstool Geological Park.

Next, Lupe and SPHP went to check out the Fossil Loop Trail.  The mile long trail starts on the W side of the campground.  There was a box full of pamphlets providing a self-guided tour.  Numbered posts along the trail correspond to numbered sections in the pamphlet, so it was a good idea to take one along.  According to the pamphlet:

Toadstool Geologic Park is a key link in understanding the earth’s history from 38 to 24 million years ago.  Geologists consider it the “type section for the White River Group,” meaning that all other similar-aged deposits in North America are compared to the geologic standard designated at Toadstool.  It is also the standard for animal fossils of that age – the Eocene and Oligocene epochs about 30 million years ago.

One of several informational displays at Toadstool Geologic Park.

While SPHP took the Fossil Loop Trail self-guided tour, Lupe raced around sniffing and exploring the badlands.  There wasn’t much vegetation and she didn’t encounter any cactus, which made Lupe very happy.  She did agree to take a little time out from her explorations of the strange rock formations to add some Carolina Dog charm to a number of photos.

Lupe among the toadstools. The toadstools are slabs of sandstone perched precariously on clay supports. Many of the sandstone caps were leaning sharply in one direction or another. Some of the toadstools were surprisingly large.
Lupe among the toadstools. The toadstools are slabs of sandstone perched precariously on clay supports. Many of the sandstone caps were leaning sharply in one direction or another. Some of the toadstools were surprisingly large.

A tiny trickling stream wound through part of the area the Fossil Loop Trail went through.  During periods of significant rain or melting snow, it was clear the stream would flash flood, making the trail at first impassable and later a complete muddy mess, but it was fine while Lupe was here.

A tiny stream trickled through this valley. In wet weather, parts of the trail would be a mucky mess.
A tiny stream trickled through this valley. In wet weather, parts of the trail would be a mucky mess.

About halfway around the loop, there was an intersection with a Bison Trail.  A sign said the Bison Trail was 3 miles long.  There was no mention of the Bison Trail in the pamphlet, or at any of the informational displays back at the campground.

Lupe near the intersection with the Bison Trail. Lupe and SPHP didn't take the Bison trail, which was 3 miles long according to the sign, since there was no indication where it was really going.
Lupe near the intersection with the Bison Trail. Lupe and SPHP didn’t take the Bison trail, which was 3 miles long according to the sign, since there was no indication where it was really going.

Shortly after passing the Bison Trail, the Fossil Loop Trail climbed out of the shallow valley up onto some of the badlands formations.  The trail stayed up here the rest of the way.  A little bit of easy scrambling was required, and the trail went close to the edge of some cliffs, but this section of the Fossil Loop Trail had some of the most interesting rock formations.

Lupe up on the badlands formation on the Fossil Loop Trail. Post No. 5 for the self-guided tour is on the lower left. Photo looks ENE.
Lupe up on the badlands formations on the Fossil Loop Trail. Post No. 5 for the self-guided tour is on the lower left. Photo looks ENE.
When it rains, this dry wash must fill with water and create quite a waterfall! The trail passed very close to the cliff partly in view on the lower left. Photo looks SSE from the Fossil Loop Trail.
When it rains, this dry wash must fill with water and create quite a waterfall! The trail passed very close to the cliff partly in view on the lower left. Photo looks SSE.
An American Dingo adds a dash of color to this otherwise pale tan and blue scene. 30 million years ago miniature horses, humpless camels, gigantic tortoises, pigs and rhinoceroses roamed here. Now dingoes do!
An American Dingo adds a dash of color to this otherwise pale tan and blue scene. 30 million years ago miniature horses, humpless camels, gigantic tortoises, pigs and rhinoceroses roamed here. Now Dingoes do!

The Fossil Loop Trail was fun, but didn’t take very long to complete.  Upon returning to the campground, Lupe and SPHP had a bit to eat.  The solitude was broken when another vehicle entered the park.  It turned out that a couple from northern Italy, Lorenzo and Gabriella, had come to hike the Bison Trail!  When they couldn’t find any information about it, they came over to meet Lupe and talk to SPHP.

Lorenzo and Gabriella said the Bison Trail leads to a boneyard where 700 hundred bison had died!  They wondered where the trail was.  SPHP told them to just take the Fossil Loop Trail.  Halfway along it they would find the intersection with the Bison Trail.  After chatting pleasantly for a few more minutes, off they went.

SPHP was impressed that Lorenzo and Gabriella had travelled so far to see Toadstool Geological Park, but it was time for Lupe to move on.  Except for a joy ride N barking at cows and horses, Lupe’s mini-Dingo Vacation in scenic western Nebraska was coming to an end.  Minus the cactus on the hike with new friend Jobe Wymore, it had all been great fun!

Maybe Lupe will return some day to camp out at Toadstool Geological Park.  Then she can explore the Bison Trail, climb Roundtop, and visit Fort Robson State Park.  A stretch of pleasant dry weather during spring or fall would be the best time to be here.   In badlands like these, winters are too cold and the summers baking hot!

There's a little scrambling around on stuff like this on the Fossil Loop Trail, but it's not hard.
There’s a little scrambling around on stuff like this on the Fossil Loop Trail, but it’s not hard.

Note:  After Lupe returned home, a little online research revealed that the Bison Trail at Toadstool Geological Park probably goes to the Hudson-Meng Education & Research Center.  Approximately 120-125 (not 700) bison died at this site around 10,000 years ago.

Related Links:

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On & Off the Hudson Meng Bison Trail – Toadstool Geologic Park to Roundtop Peak & Beyond, Nebraska (3-14-18)

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