By the time Lupe and SPHP arrived at grandma’s house, Joe and Dusty were ready and waiting. Joe had already entered an alert on Summits on the Air! Joe, Dusty, Lupe and SPHP lost no time leaving for Boulder Hill(5,331 ft.).
Boulder Hill from USFS Road No. 358 (Boulder Hill Road) where Flume Trail No. 50 crosses the road. Photo looks S.
At 8:19 AM (71°F), Joe parked the G6 at the high point of the saddle on USFS Road No. 358 near the Boulder Hill access road. A cool N breeze could be heard in the pines. Lupe and Dusty were soon racing through the shady forest. Joe and SPHP took the access road.
Rain had finally arrived the day before – the real deal with thunder, lightning, small hail and at least an inch of moisture. Lupe found big tan mud puddles on the access road. She plunked herself down in several of them. She emerged with cool, tan mineral water streaming from her fur.
The access road was only 0.375 mile long. It ended at the base of the big rock outcropping at the top of Boulder Hill(5,331 ft.). A spur of Flume Trail No. 50 wound up among the rocks to a small, shallow saddle between the N and S high points at the summit of Boulder Hill. Good! No one was around. Joe would have his choice of sites to set up his ham radio equipment.
Two days earlier, Joe had had such a good time with his first Summits on the Air (SOTA) experience “activating” Custer Peak(6,804 ft.), that he wanted to try activating another peak in the Black Hills before he and Dusty had to head home to Arvada, Colorado. SOTA is “an award scheme for radio amateurs that encourages portable operation in mountainous areas”. Naturally, Lupe, Dusty, and SPHP had all wanted to come along again, too!
Joe decided to set up the radio equipment at the N end of the N high point. He taped a 12 foot fishing pole supporting an antenna wire as high up in a pine tree as he could. SPHP then helped Joe set up 4 lateral wires near the base of the antenna. Lupe and Dusty supervised, while guarding against intruders.
Joe and Dusty during setup of the portable ham radio. The 12′ fishing pole supporting the antenna can be see up in the tree toward the L. Several of the lateral wires can be seen, too.Lupe supervises while Joe finishes setting the radio up. Photo looks NW.
Pretty soon, the radio was ready. This time, Joe had a much better idea of what to expect once the radio was on. Before “activating” Boulder Hill, Joe gave SPHP the log book and a pen. SPHP received a 5 minute crash course on how to log the contact call signs, and other data Joe would call out while operating the radio.
AA0Q (Joe’s radio call sign) ready to get Boulder Hill on the air!
Set up had gone smoothly. AA0Q was ready to go on the air 5 minutes before the alert time Joe had posted on the SOTA website. As soon as Joe started transmitting, the same thing happened as at Custer Peak two days earlier. Within seconds of turning the radio on, a contact “spotted” AA0Q on Boulder Hill on the SOTA website. Moments later, Joe told SPHP that it was another “pileup”. Joe said it sounded like 30 hams were trying to contact him at once.
It was impossible to respond to them all, but Joe was better prepared than last time. SPHP logged the contacts, while AA0Q “worked” them using Morse Code. Joe recognized some of the contacts as repeats from his SOTA activation of Custer Peak. Others were new. The most distant contact was in Great Britain, which Joe said was very good for transmitting only 4 watts.
AA0Q on the air on Boulder Hill, with Dusty looking on. Photo looks NW.
Lupe and Dusty helped, too. At one point, three hikers arrived up on Boulder Hill while AA0Q was still transmitting. Both Lupe and Dusty barked a warning. SPHP stopped logging long enough to point out the lateral antenna wires, so they wouldn’t trip on them. SPHP also took a couple of group photos for the hikers using their camera.
Once again, Joe was rather amazed at the terrific response. His Summits on the Air activation of Boulder Hill was a big success. In roughly an hour, AA0Q worked 33 contacts by Morse Code, and one by voice. By activating Boulder Hill, AA0Q had earned 6 more points toward the SOTA “Mountain Goat” award. Including the 8 points earned on Custer Peak, he was now up to 14 points. SOTA was fun and added a whole new dimension to AA0Q’s amateur radio hobby!
When Joe was done transmitting, it was time to take down the antenna and pack up all the radio gear. When that was complete, Joe, Dusty, Lupe & SPHP went to explore a slightly lower high point a short distance to the N.
Joe and Dusty on the slightly lower high point to the N. Harney Peak (L of Center) is the highest point in the distance. Photo looks SW.Silver Mountain’s summit is in view just above Joe. Cliffs at the edge of the N summit area close to where AA0Q had been transmitting are seen on the L. Photo looks SSW.Joe stands near the spot where he had been transmitting from on the N summit. Photo looks S.
Of course, the peakbagger in Lupe wasn’t about to leave Boulder Hill without a visit to the S summit area, too!
Lupe on the S summit. Silver Mountain(5,405 ft.) is the grassy peak on the L. Harney Peak(7,242 ft.) is on the horizon on the R.AA0Q and Dusty at the S summit. Photo looks SW.Harney Peak using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.Part of Storm Hill (5,192 ft.) is seen on the L. Hwy 16 is visible on the R. Photo looks E.Joe and Dusty on the trail on the way down. Photo looks S.
By noon, Joe, Dusty, Lupe and SPHP were back at grandma’s house. Joe logged in all the QSO’s (contacts) he had made on the Summits on the Air website. All the contacts earned points toward the SOTA “Shack Sloth” award.
After lunch, Joe & SPHP went with other family members off into the hills again. SPHP wound up at Rushmore Cave, and Joe wound up at an antique shop in Keystone.
Lupe, Dusty and Maya (another dog in the family) were left behind with grandma. SPHP had given all three dogs water and a Beggin’ Strip before leaving. Grandma later reported that all the dogs spent the entire afternoon snoozing on the soft carpet in front of the fan. Being a “Radio-Active” Carolina Dog can be a tough life, but someone’s got to do it!
Summits on the Air map showing AA0Q’s activation of Boulder Hill.
Light out. Looked like for a while already. Ugh! Loopster, you awake? Of course, she was, but even Lupe wasn’t looking too lively yet, still content to snuggle down on her sleeping bag. Lupe gazed sleepily back at SPHP. Is it time?
Uncharacteristically, Lupe had only wanted to go outside her “tiny house” once during the night to prowl around. The scene, the mood, had been magical. A full moon flooded Paint Rock Creek valley with ghostly light. Close by, but out of sight below the grassy ridge on which Lupe’s tiny house was perched, came the soothing sound of Paint Rock Creek gushing over a 15 foot high waterfall. Otherwise, silence prevailed beneath the night sky. Nothing stirred. Lupe and SPHP were utterly alone.
Now it was light out. Yes, it’s time, Loop. I wish it wasn’t – I’m not feeling it. Sheesh, why do I always do this? Bomber Mountain after Cloud Peak, indeed – what a joke! I must be delusional. Now I’ll be lucky to drag myself up Cloud today. I hope you’re more ready for this than I am. SPHP started preparations for the day’s climb. Lupe watched, but didn’t move. She made no comment.
Yesterday, Lupe and SPHP had made it from the trailhead at West Tensleep Lake to the junction of the Misty Moon Trail (No. 63) and the Solitude Trail (No. 38) SW of Misty Moon Lake in good time. The sun had still been high overhead. Lupe and SPHP could have made it to base camp on the ledge near Paint Rock Creek falls with many hours before sunset to relax and recuperate for the climb up Cloud Peak(13,167 ft.) today.
Hah! That would have been too easy. Instead, full of enthusiasm, SPHP had led Lupe E on the Solitude Trail off on a side excursion to see the Fortress Lakes and Gunboat Lake. Lupe even left the trail to climb a minor high point, Peak 10,860. From there, SPHP had seen what looked like a good route up Bomber Mountain(12,840 ft.) from the Florence Pass area. Wouldn’t it be fun for Lupe to climb Bomber Mountain, too, the day after climbing Cloud Peak?
The side excursion was fun and beautiful, but also chewed up lots of time. More importantly, it used up a lot of energy. As a result, Lupe and SPHP had dragged into base camp on the low ridge NW of Paint Rock Creek falls only an hour and a half before sunset. By then, the Bomber Mountain daydream was shattered. SPHP was played out. Even Lupe seemed tired. As soon as Lupe’s tiny house was pitched, Lupe and SPHP had crawled inside and crashed.
OK, Loop, let’s go! Yeah, yesterday’s side excursion may have been a mistake, but so what? You’re gonna make it to the top, sweet puppy! We still have lots of advantages. We are starting from the best and closest possible base camp, the weather is ideal, and we saw yesterday that there’s almost no snow left up there to stop us.
Not gonna set any speed records, unless it’s for the slowest ascent ever, but who cares? No one. It’s just us. We have all day. We can rest as often and long as we want to. There’s a reason for this SPHP tag, you know. Even so, this is still going to be a glorious day. Promise!
Lupe and her tiny house at base camp near Paint Rock Creek ready to leave for Cloud Peak. Photo looks NE.
Lupe was ready! She grabbed a big stick and chomped it. She snarled and barked. She leaped around encouraging SPHP to please, finally, get on with it. And then she was off, tearing NE along the trail up Paint Rock Creek valley above the falls.
The unmaintained trail was good, at first. It paralleled Paint Rock Creek from a short distance to the NW. Lupe and SPHP went down to the creek, so Lupe could get a drink. Bluebells were growing in profusion along the banks.
Bluebells along Paint Rock Creek.
Lupe and SPHP returned to the trail. Almost immediately, it veered N, leaving the creek behind. Gradually, the trail became more intermittent and harder to follow. Sometimes there were cairns to show the way. There was no reason to worry. It was just about impossible to get lost. To the N was a giant ridge of solid stone sweeping up to the NE toward Cloud Peak’s summit.
Lupe and SPHP came to several big rock formations that had to be traversed. Between the formations was much more level grassy ground. SPHP grew careless about following the trail, losing it several times. Lupe kept coming across it again. Once, at one of the formations, Lupe came to a rock wall that was too high for her to scramble up. SPHP lifted her up, but that was the only time she needed help.
One of the first grassy areas Lupe crossed after leaving Paint Rock Creek. Cloud Peak is glimpsed in the distance to the L of the prominent point at Center. Photo looks NE.Lupe on her way up one of the rock formations. The trail went to the L of where Lupe is standing, not up the rubble filled ravine on the R.
Sometimes Lupe had to lose a little elevation leaving the rock formations to reach the next grassy section, but the elevation loss was never significant. The last grassy section was the largest of all. Several ponds were scattered around. Directly ahead, beyond the grass, was a headwall. Above it was a higher valley leading toward Cloud Peak.
The last, and largest, of the grassy sections between rock formations is seen ahead. On the L is the headwall, above which is an upper valley between the huge ridge on the L and the prominent point at Center.
After crossing the last big grassy area, Lupe was delighted to discover a big patch of snow in a cleft in the headwall. She frolicked, slid, and rolled on it. SPHP was happy for her. Down on the sagebrush prairies surrounding the Bighorns it was supposed to be 100°F, but here was Lupe having a blast in the snow!
Lupe having fun on the first snowbank she encountered.
Above the headwall, the long upper valley stretched ahead. There was a fair amount of grass in the center of the valley. A tributary of Paint Rock Creek cascaded down from above.
Lupe reaches the top of the headwall. Behind her is the long upper valley extending away to the NE.
SPHP hadn’t really bothered to look for the route the intermittent trail took up over the headwall, but realized Lupe was probably SE of it. The center of the valley near the creek looked like the easiest way up. Unfortunately, instead of immediately working over to the middle, SPHP chose what looked like the easiest route from where Lupe had arrived on the headwall, which stayed SE of the valley center.
The route was full of boulders, but now and then there were short stretches of grass or dirt. They all led higher up on the SE side of the valley. Gradually, Lupe was getting farther away from the middle of the valley, instead of closer to it. Lupe didn’t seem to mind all the rock-hopping too much, but for SPHP it was time consuming and exhausting. Frequent stops were necessary to let heart and lungs catch up.
Lupe on the boulders up on the SE side of the upper valley. Lupe was doing OK, but for SPHP progress was tedious.
Eventually, Lupe was a long way up on the SE side of the upper valley. By now, even short stretches of grass or dirt were non-existent. Ahead was a seemingly endless boulder field. Somewhere up there, SPHP knew Lupe would arrive at the edge of massive cliffs to the SE.
From below, the boulders above repeatedly gave the impression that Lupe was nearing the top of the ridge. As Lupe scrambled ever higher, SPHP urged her to be careful. However, each time Lupe reached the apparent ridgeline, all that was revealed beyond were more boulders and an even higher ridge.
Lupe nears the top of one of the false ridgelines. Beyond, all that was revealed was another long climb to a similar, even higher, false ridgeline. Photo looks E.
Slowly, Lupe and SPHP pressed onward and upward. There was no other reasonable choice. The floor of the upper valley was now much too far below to consider going back down looking for a better route. Sorry, Lupe, looks like I’ve really screwed this up again. We’re still going to make it, though. This can’t go on forever. On the way back down, we will find a better way.
By now, even Lupe was getting sick of all the rock hopping. Each time SPHP stopped for a breather, she curled up at SPHP’s feet as best as she could. SPHP tried to stop at tiny patches of grass, so she could be somewhat comfortable, but often there wasn’t anything resembling “comfortable” around.
Photo of the day! Want to know what climbing Cloud Peak is like? This is it! SPHP could have taken 1,000 photos looking like this one on the way.
Despite the horrible route SPHP had selected, there were still cairns scattered around here and there. They were utterly meaningless. SPHP did derive a little comfort from them. Well, Loop, looks like we aren’t the only suckers to ever come this way!
Over time, SPHP could see Lupe was making progress. She was gradually gaining on Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.), far off to the SW. After a while, she was even with it. Eventually, Elk Mountain was clearly below Lupe’s elevation.
At last, Lupe reached the edge of the cliffs! Across a chasm to the ESE was an impressive view of Bomber Mountain(12,840 ft.). To the NNE was Lupe’s first relatively close up view of “The Bridge”. It was farther away than SPHP had hoped. The entire intervening distance was still nothing but more boulders. Beyond “The Bridge”, boulder fields rose 1,000 feet above Lupe’s current position.
Lupe reaches the edge of the cliffs. Bomber Mountain(12,840 ft.) is seen on the R. Lupe is somewhere very near the point marked 12,152 ft. on the Peakbagger.com topo map. Photo looks ESE.Lupe at the edge of the chasm. “The Bridge” is in view on the skyline directly above Lupe. Photo looks NNE.
What SPHP refers to as “The Bridge” is a narrow band of rock connecting much wider portions of the long SW ridge leading up to the summit of Cloud Peak. If “The Bridge” didn’t exist, Cloud Peak would be a technical climb, the summit attainable only by those with genuine mountaineering skills and equipment. Casual day hikers and backpackers like Lupe and SPHP would have no way to ever reach the summit.
Lupe and SPHP had no choice, but to continue on to “The Bridge”. Lupe went N over the boulders along the edge of the chasm to the E. As she got closer to the narrowest part of “The Bridge”, Lupe turned NE to cross it. There were huge drop offs on both sides, with spectacular views, but “The Bridge” is plenty wide enough so that crossing it under favorable conditions isn’t a terrifying experience.
Lupe near the start of “The Bridge” before crossing it. Lupe got to this point coming up from the R to reach the edge of the near ridge seen above her in this photo. She then followed the edge up. This was not a good route. SPHP should have stayed to the R of this photo all the way up, so Lupe could arrive directly at this point from the R. Photo looks SSW.Lupe crossing “The Bridge”. The W high point of the Cloud Peak summit area looms another 600 or 700 feet higher ahead. Photo looks NE.Looking NW from “The Bridge”. Lakes W and NW of Cloud Peak are in view. The highest point seen beyond them is Peak 12473.The same lakes using the telephoto lens for a better look at the waterfall. Photo looks NW.
While crossing “The Bridge”, Lupe gained little net elevation, if any. The crossing was still slow, since “The Bridge” is all boulder field, just like the rest of the terrain. There appeared to be a somewhat easier route toward the S side, but naturally, SPHP had led Lupe along the N edge to see the views in that direction. Was it possible to go any slower? It was hard to see how.
Beyond “The Bridge”, Lupe resumed her climb. Only another 600 or 700 feet of elevation gain to the top! Only? SPHP was fading. Lupe wasn’t, though! There were many places where SPHP thought the Carolina Dog might need help over huge boulders. Each time SPHP offered to lend her a hand, though, all on her own she appeared a moment or two later grinning down at SPHP from above. Show off!
This high on the mountain, Lupe started coming to more snow. The snow actually helped. SPHP was able to trudge right on up it, where the snow wasn’t too steep. Although it was warm out and the snow was melting at a good clip, it didn’t give way. Crossing the snow was much faster than trying to negotiate the boulders.
Getting there!
Finally, less than 500 feet below the summit during one of SPHP’s innumerable rest breaks, SPHP saw something that had been expected for hours. Below, and not terribly far away, someone was coming! Two people and a white dog! They were moving fast. Soon they would overtake Lupe and SPHP. Until now, Lupe and SPHP had been totally alone on the mountain.
Before long, Lupe and SPHP met Garrett, Ariel, and their dog Apollo! They were from Casper, WY. After a pleasant few minutes chatting, Lupe and SPHP were left behind. Garrett, Ariel and Apollo blazed ahead, eventually disappearing high above. Lupe and SPHP plugged along slowly. At long last, from the SW, Lupe reached the summit area.
The summit area was quite large – a few hundred feet across or more. The whole area was still all boulder fields, but they sloped much less dramatically. There was a high point to the W, which had been visible at times on the way up. The true summit was a large boulder with a cairn on it off toward the E edge of the mountain. Huge precipices were to the E and S near the true summit, and W of the W high point.
Garrett, Ariel and Apollo were still at the true summit when Lupe and SPHP finally arrived. Lupe was more than a little ill-mannered toward poor unoffending Apollo. Apparently, SPHP had been moving so slowly, Lupe had spent enough time on Cloud Peak on the way up to start thinking of the mountain as her own territory. Lupe repeatedly growled warnings at Apollo. This mountain isn’t big enough for the two of us!
Come on now, Lupe, of course it is – behave!
This was it! Success! Despite the perfect weather, no one else was coming to climb Cloud Peak today. Garrett and Ariel said it was already 3:15 PM. (Good grief, had it really taken SPHP 8.25 hours to struggle up this mountain? A lousy 3,000 feet of elevation gain from base camp? Apparently so. Record crappy ascent time secured! No matter, it was still a successful ascent.) Time for everyone to celebrate with a few photos!
Lupe on top of Cloud Peak with Ariel, Garrett & Apollo from Casper, WY.Ariel and Garrett at the summit. Photo looks S.Garrett, Ariel & Apollo. SPHP believes the highest of the nearby sharp points in the background are Black Tooth Mountain(13,005 ft.) and Mt. Woolsey(12,978 ft.). Photo looks N.
Garrett and Ariel stayed up at the summit talking with SPHP. They were trail runners, and spent quite a bit of time in the mountains when they could. They had only 2 days off work, and had come up to the Bighorns just to tag Cloud Peak. Amazingly, they had hopes of being down off the mountain and back to Pizza Hut in Buffalo, WY before it closed at 10 PM!
It seemed impossible! SPHP would be thrilled with stumbling back into Lupe’s base camp before it was pitch black. SPHP talked with Garrett and Ariel so long, they probably never stood a chance of enjoying that pizza. It was after 4 PM by the time Garrett, Ariel and Apollo took their leave, and disappeared off to the SW.
Alone again, Loop! What a glorious place! We did make it, didn’t we? Lupe panted happily at SPHP. Sure did! You knew we would! You’re with an American Dingo. It was in the bag all along. SPHP sat petting Lupe on the summit boulder for a while. Yeah, but you gotta remember, I’m no American Dingo. Lupe sighed and rolled over, paws in the air. Good! You can scratch my belly, then. SPHP complied, while surveying the world from 13,167 ft.
Lupe stands alone on the Cloud Peak summit boulder. Photo looks SE toward Bomber Mountain.Looking W toward the W high point. From the true summit, it looked nearly as high. However, when Lupe and SPHP went over to check it out, it was readily apparent the E boulder with the summit cairn was most definitely the true summit.Looking E down on Glacier Lake.Looking SSE along the spine of the Bighorn Mountain range.A look at a forest fire to the NNW with help from the telephoto lens.Looking SW back down the mountain. Lake Helen and Misty Moon Lake are in view below, as well as Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.) on the R.Lupe at the W high point. Photo looks WNW.Looking N from near the W high point. Lupe demonstrates proper soft dingo ear positioning technique. SPHP believes Lupe’s ear seen on the L is pointing up at Black Tooth Mountain(13,005 ft.). Her ear on the R is pointing up at Mt. Woolsey(12,973 ft.).Seen from the N in this photo, Cloud Peak’s W high point looks very different than when viewed from the E.Looking W. A small portion of Middle Cloud Peak Lake is in view (L), as well as most of a long unnamed lake NE of it (R).
It must have been approaching 5 PM, by the time Lupe and SPHP started back down. Going down was easier, but still ridiculously slow. SPHP did improve on route selection, which in some places made virtually no difference, but in others helped tremendously.
The big improvements came below “The Bridge”. This time, Lupe stayed much farther to the N, heading W from “The Bridge”. This eventually brought Lupe down to a big, nearly flat area that swept off to the S and then down around to the SW. There were so few boulders here, that Lupe was free to run around exploring as she pleased. It was like a Cloud Peak super highway compared to the way Lupe and SPHP had struggled up earlier!
Lupe on her way down, but still not far from the top. “The Bridge” can be seen above her head. On the far side of “The Bridge”, going to the R down toward the big patch of snow brought Lupe to the Cloud Peak version of a super highway. She actually reached the flats a little to the L of the patch of snow. Lupe perked up considerably when she was finally free of the boulder fields, and could actually roam and run again. Photo looks SW.A closer look at “The Bridge” (on the L) from above. Photo looks SW.
Better route selection hardly mattered at first. It took a long time just getting down to “The Bridge”. The scenery was spectacular, though!
Another peek at the forest fire to the NNW.An evening shot of the lakes to the W.Cliffs along the W face of Cloud Peak. Photo looks NNE.Nearing “The Bridge” from above. Photo looks SW.W face of Cloud Peak from near “The Bridge”. Photo looks NE.
By the time Lupe reached the Cloud Peak super highway, the sun was already very low, and the light was beginning to fade. It was still a very long way back to Lupe’s base camp. Fortunately, Lupe and SPHP could now make rapid progress for a while.
The big flat area gradually steepened, and eventually led down into the upper end of the valley above the headwall where the tributary of Paint Rock Creek was flowing. There were lots more boulders again here, but Lupe was able to avoid most of them. Successive trails marked by cairns went down long stretches of narrow, boulder-free paths of dirt or grass.
As Lupe got close to the stream, she found a lot more grass, plus big areas of relatively smooth exposed bedrock. Staying on the SE side of the stream, but close to it, was a lot better than Lupe’s tortuous climb among the boulders higher up on the SE side of the valley in the morning.
As fast as Lupe’s progress was, by the time Lupe and SPHP managed to get down the headwall to the biggest grassy area with scattered ponds, the sun was long gone. Twilight was fading fast. Beyond the grass, SPHP had a hard time finding a decent route over the first of the rock formations that had to be traversed. Once on the other side, nothing looked familiar, not that it was possible to see much.
SPHP brought out the flashlight and a headlamp. Ahead to the SW, a wide valley of exposed bedrock sloped down into a deep dark hole. Off to the SE was the outline of a dark ridge, but it wasn’t nearly high enough to be the ridge S of Paint Rock Creek. Confusion set in. SPHP couldn’t see much, but what was in view seemed wrong.
Did the map show the dark ridge to the SE? SPHP didn’t remember it from earlier in the day. A look at the topo map didn’t seem to show it either. Was it possible to miss going right by Lupe’s base camp by simply continuing down the canyon? Both the map and what SPHP could remember seemed to indicate that was impossible, yet the yawning black hole ahead looked totally unfamiliar.
Lupe, let’s go back up a way, maybe we are supposed to be on the other side of this dark ridge to the SE? Lupe was fine with that. For a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP headed back up to the NE. Reason soon set in again. SPHP stopped. Let’s have another look at the topo map.
Little bulges to the SW in the topographic lines probably indicated the presence of the dark SE ridge. SPHP probably hadn’t paid any attention to the ridge in the morning, because it wasn’t really as big as it looked in the dark.
Loop, we are turning around again to go back down into the dark hole. If we persist in trying to reach the other side this SE ridge, we may find ourselves in a real jumble down along Paint Rock Creek way before it reaches the trail. Keep an eye out for the trail, and sniff around for it, too. We need to find it!
Cautiously, SPHP headed back down toward the dark abyss. Lupe sniffed around. She found the trail! It was faint, but here was a little cairn. This had to be it. Across the grassy areas and over the rock formations, Lupe helped SPHP stay on the trail. It had been intermittent and kind of hard to follow in the day. In the dark, it was really tricky.
Whenever the trail disappeared, SPHP watched Lupe, in a minute or two she was usually on it again. Several times SPHP disagreed with Lupe on which way to go. Lupe was soon proven right almost every time.
The rock formations seemed much steeper and rougher in the darkness than during the day. The way back seemed much longer than expected, too. Darkness does that. Time passes much more slowly than one thinks. SPHP went on and on in the darkness, but with growing confidence. The little cairns were helpful. Lupe was helpful. The trail gradually improved.
Finally, Paint Rock Creek could be heard not too far away. The trail still didn’t go toward it for what seemed like a long time. Eventually it did, though, and not long afterward, Lupe arrived back at her tiny house. Ta da! That was quite a day, Lupe! Thanks so much for your help! We are going to remember Cloud Peak for a long time. Hungry?
Lupe was hungry. Famished, actually. She had hardly eaten anything all day. She inhaled her Taste of the Wild. Then she was ready to curl up on her sleeping bag. SPHP pulled part of it over her. Keep the puppy warm! Lupe was asleep in no time. SPHP was too weary to eat. Out like a light.
Suddenly, it was morning again. Bright and beautiful, but not a cloud in the sky. It was going to be a scorcher, even way up here. Now it was SPHP’s turn to eat. Lupe hardly stirred, happy curled up on her sleeping bag. SPHP wrapped it around her a little better again. Hope you weren’t too cold in the night Loop, I never regained consciousness to check on you.
So do I win an “I survived Cloud Peak” T-shirt or anything for yesterday’s exploits?Looking S across Paint Rock Creek valley from Lupe’s base camp. Lupe would have to follow the Solitude Trail over the low pass on the L to Misty Moon Lake on her way back to the trailhead at West Tensleep Lake.
Well, Loopster, Cloud Peak was your toughest peakbagging success yet, but it’s time to go home today. We are low on water, and even if we had gallons of it, I am totally out of energy to climb Bomber Mountain. That was pure fantasy for this trip. Not going to happen. It wasn’t in the original plan, anyway. Would you like to explore the ridge to the W for a little way, though, before we leave?
Lupe was fine with sniffing around to the W. She climbed some low hills. She saw a beautiful unnamed lake. She drank from a tiny stream. SPHP admired Paint Rock Creek valley, and all the wonderful sights in and around it.
The hidden lake W of Lupe’s base camp. Photo looks W.Looking back E up the Paint Rock Creek valley from the farthest point W on Lupe’s morning exploration. Cloud Peak is seen on the horizon on the L.
Lupe and SPHP returned to base camp. It was time to go. SPHP took down Lupe’s tiny house. Away went Lupe and SPHP, S across Paint Rock Creek valley, up the other side to the Solitude Trail, and over the pass. Lupe went by Misty Moon Lake, reached the Misty Moon Trail, and proceeded S past Lake Marion and Lake Helen.
Misty Moon Lake from near the Solitude Trail. Photo looks S.Lupe with a sly look on her face near Lake Marion. Photo looks S.
At 4:14 PM (81°F), Lupe’s 3 day/2 night adventure to Cloud Peak was over. She was back at the trailhead at West Tensleep Lake ready to bark at cows and horses from the comfort of the G6 on her air-conditioned ride home to the Black Hills.
A couple days later, Lupe had an email from her mountaineer friend, Jobe Wymore, congratulating Lupe on her ascent of Cloud Peak. By sheer coincidence, Sam Grant, a mountaineer buddy of Jobe’s had climbed Cloud Peak on 7-21-16, the day after Lupe did! Had Lupe run into Sam by any chance? Sam would have made the entire trip as a day hike in one day!
SPHP saw on Peakbagger.com that Sam had taken the Misty Moon Trail from West Tensleep Lake, too. Lupe and SPHP almost certainly passed by Sam somewhere along the trail on the way back to the G6. Jobe was soon able to confirm that Sam thought he might have actually talked to SPHP for a few minutes! Fun stuff! Too bad Lupe and SPHP hadn’t realized who Sam was. Lupe could have gotten her picture taken with him, and added another genuine mountaineer to her collection of friends.
Just think, Lupe! Sam Grant can do in one day what took me 3 days and 2 nights! Maybe Garrett, Ariel and Apollo did get to Pizza Hut in Buffalo in time, after all? I’m clearly holding you back. Maybe you better consider an upgrade from SPHP? You could get a lot more accomplished!
Aren’t we going on my wonderful, most stupendous ever Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation in less than a week?
Of course!
Well then, I’m stuck with you, SPHP, at least for the time being.
Good thing, Lupe! I’d sure miss you, if you ever left. Now you are going to help me pack all this stuff, right?
Start without me SPHP, I’m kind of busy resting up for all the adventures I have to star in ahead!
Lupe near base camp the day after climbing Cloud Peak, seen in the distance. Her tiny house is on the R.
Day 4 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast
The clouds were gone and the rain had stopped when Lupe woke SPHP up in the Honda Element. Despite having slept sitting up, SPHP felt pretty good. Lupe, of course, felt great. She’d slept very comfortably on a pile of pillows and blankets in the back of the Element. Lanis was still asleep in the driver’s seat getting his beauty rest.
Lupe and SPHP got out to greet the day, and take a look at the fabulous view of Pilot(11,699 ft.) and Index(11,240 ft.) Peaks from the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. Despite the cloudless sky, there was a haze in the air that kept the view from being as crisp as it might have been. Only days later did SPHP realize that the persistent haze was due to huge wildfires burning in Idaho.
Pilot (L) and Index (R) Peaks from the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone.
While Lanis continued getting 40 winks, Lupe and SPHP went across to the S side of the Beartooth Hwy and took a stroll up a very grassy little valley. Lupe was happy barking at squirrels in the forest along the edges of the valley.
Returning to the Element, Lupe and SPHP woke Lanis up. Time to get a move on! New adventures and explorations awaited! Lanis drove E on the Beartooth Highway. E of the junction with the St. Joseph Scenic Byway, the Beartooth Hwy wound up to an overlook with a view toward the huge canyon to the S.
Lanis at the overlook. Yes, that’s Pilot and Index Peaks again in the distance on the R.Looking S across the huge canyon that the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone flows through.
It turned out that in the few minutes Lanis and SPHP were admiring the view, Lupe had found another way to entertain herself. She was very industriously, though unsuccessfully thus far, trying to dig marmots out of their holes in the ground. It was hard work, but Lupe was pursuing it with great vigor and enthusiasm. SPHP had to hustle her into the Element before there was trouble.
Looking WNW at Beartooth Butte(10,514 ft.) from Hwy 212 at the Top of the World Store.The Top of the World Store along Beartooth Hwy No. 212.Lupe waits while the Element gets fueled up.Lanis props up the Top of the World Store sign. Or is it the other way around?
A little over a mile E of the Top of the World Store was a turn to the N to the Island Lake campground. Breakfast was enjoyed at a picnic ground overlooking Island Lake. At over 9,500 feet elevation, Island Lake was already in alpine territory. It was going to be a great starting point for Lupe’s first exploratory trek into the Beartooth Mountains.
Island Lake in the Beartooth Mountains. Photo looks NNW.Cheerios and blueberries! Alpo for Lupe.
After breakfast, Lupe, Lanis, and SPHP took the Beartooth High Lakes trail heading N along the W side of Island Lake. There were gorgeous wildflowers everywhere. The trail was in good shape and easy to follow. There wasn’t much elevation gain or loss. Around each bend was another delightful scene of alpine splendor. The trail went past Island Lake, Night Sky Lake, and then a series of smaller lakes.
Looking N along the Beartooth High Lakes trail.
Lonesome Mountain looms in the distance beyond a pond in the Beartooth Mountains. Photo looks NNW.
After a while, the trail turned S and went down a hill to Beauty Lake. The intention hadn’t been to come here. Somewhere just upstream, SPHP had lost the Beartooth High Lakes trail and wound up on the Beauty Lake trail. It really didn’t matter. Lupe was on a first time exploration of the area. Everything was new and exciting no matter which way she went.
Beauty Lake was large, and looked deep compared to most of the other lakes Lupe had been by so far. It was in a very pretty setting. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP climbed up on a rocky knob along the NE side of the lake that provided a nice viewpoint. By now, it was time for a lunch break. Lupe played among the rocks and trees.
Soon it felt so warm out, SPHP considered taking a dip in the lake. The water felt pretty cold, though. Only Lupe was actually brave enough to enter the water. Even she just waded around close to the shore.
Looking W across Beauty Lake.Looking S.Don’t tell me you’re going to chicken out on me again, SPHP! The water is fine, really! You’ll be numb soon enough!Lupe wades around in the cold waters of Beauty Lake.
The only map of the area that Lanis and SPHP had was a very simple tourist map called “Wayfinding on the Beartooth All-American Road” that Lanis had picked up at a visitor center in Cooke City. It showed that the Beauty Lake trail would take Lupe back to the Beartooth Highway close to Beartooth Lake, which was miles from the Honda Element. SPHP didn’t want to go that way.
The map also showed that the Beartooth High Lakes trail continued NW across a stream near the N end of Beauty Lake. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went a short distance back N to where a very lovely stream flowed down to Beauty Lake. Searching for the Beartooth High Lakes trail on the other side of the stream revealed nothing. There were lots of beautiful wildflowers, but no continuation of the trail was in sight.
Not ready to give up, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP followed the stream for a little way up a small canyon. There were more rocks and wildflowers, but again, no trail was found. The going got progressively more difficult. Lanis had an exciting time chasing a water bottle he dropped in the creek back a considerable distance downstream before he was able to retrieve it.
The stream N of Beauty Lake. Photo looks S.Lanis looking for the rest of the Beartooth High Lakes trail. Not really finding it. Lots of flowers blooming by the stream, though!
Lupe supposedly looking for the trail. SPHP suspects she was really looking for squirrels.
Lupe thought Lanis was just hilarious trying to catch that water bottle!
Hmm, maybe the tourist map wasn’t terribly accurate? Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left the stream, and followed the Beauty Lake trail farther back up the hill looking for a junction with the Beartooth High Lakes trail. As it turned out, there was a trail junction up there!
Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed N on this new trail. None of them realized this wasn’t the Beartooth High Lakes trail either. Again it didn’t matter. The new trail was in good shape, and went into even more beautiful country!
The new trail soon headed N between Mutt & Jeff Lakes, which are very close together and connected by a stream that flows down to Mutt Lake (not pictured to the L of this photo). Jeff Lake is seen beyond Lanis. The trail continued across the rocks seen on the far side of Jeff Lake, and on up a hill through the gap to a little pass. In the pass there was a mucky pond and rocks to scramble around. Photo looks N.The mucky little pond in the pass N of Jeff Lake. Photo looks S.
The new trail went N, passing by a couple of ponds. Then it went down a short hill to go between two lakes (Mutt & Jeff) that were very close together. A broad stream flowed gently between the lakes, and required some rock hopping to get across. Beyond the stream, the trail went across a boulder field on the NW side of Jeff Lake, before continuing up a hillside to a relatively low gap between mountains.
In the gap was a mucky pond and some boulders to work around. The trail then went gradually downhill. Before too long, there was a view of the S end of a gorgeous lake. Unknown to Lupe, Lanis and SPHP at the time, this was Becker Lake.
Becker Lake is a fairly large, long lake extending N/S. The S end is the largest, and tucked in against big rock walls and hills. The N end is narrower, and more out in the open. The trail did not go down to Becker Lake, but stayed well above it to the E. For a while, the trail went completely out of sight of the lake, but the lake eventually came into view again farther N.
Part of the S end of Becker Lake comes into view. Lonesome Mountain is seen in the distance on the R.Lupe explores the forest near the trail.
This big tree scarred by lightning was near the trail.Lanis’ moss and lichens photo of the day!While out of sight of Becker Lake, the trail passed by the W shore of this little pond. Photo looks N.Looking SW across Becker Lake.Part of the high ridge to the E of Becker Lake.Lupe nears the N end of Becker Lake. Photo looks NNW toward Lonesome Mountain(11,399 ft.) (R of center).
Lupe, Lanis and SPHP followed the trail N past Becker Lake. The trail was now passing along the E side of a creek coming down through a broad grassy valley. A woman coming down the trail said this part of the trail was in Montana!
Lupe, Lanis and SPHP continued on a little way, but it was close to 5:00 PM now. It was soon time to turn around and head back to the Honda Element at Island Lake, before it got too late. Lupe’s route back included everything except the side trip to Beauty Lake again. She had a wonderful time sniffing and exploring the entire way back.
Going to Beauty and Becker Lakes was one of the most glorious days Lupe had ever spent in the mountains anywhere. This day was a real highlight of her 2012 Dingo Vacation!
Don’t forget to sniff the air!
Going back down from the little pass toward Jeff Lake near the end of the day. Photo looks S.Looking NNW back across Island Lake toward the high country where Lupe had such a great time in the Beartooths.
Lupe and SPHP returned on subsequent Dingo Vacations in 2013 & 2014 to explore farther into Montana N of Becker Lake. Click on the red links below to view Lupe’s other posts about this stunning part of the Beartooth Mountains:
