Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 220 – Storm Hill & Northeast Cicero Peak (12-18-17)

Start: 9:20 AM, 36°F at the Boulder Hill trailhead of Flume Trail No. 50 on USFS Road No. 358 (Boulder Hill Road)

Going to Boulder Hill with Mark and Hillary on Expedition No. 219 had reminded SPHP that while Lupe had been to Boulder Hill half a dozen times, she had never been to nearby Storm Hill.  Wasn’t it about time she went?

Of course, Lupe was in favor of any idea that would get her out of the house for another Black Hills adventure!  Soon she was setting out for Storm Hill (5,192 ft.) from the same Boulder Hill trailhead of Flume Trail No. 50 where she had so recently been with Mark and Hillary.

Lupe sets out for Storm Hill on Flume Trail No. 50. A spur of the trail goes up to Boulder Hill, but that wasn’t Lupe’s destination today. Photo looks SE.

For the first 0.33 mile, Lupe followed Flume Trail No. 50.  The trail went SE up to a saddle between Boulder Hill and Storm Hill.  With only an inch of snow on the ground, Lupe could have run around exploring easily enough.  Instead, she nervously stuck close to SPHP.  Distant gunfire could be heard coming from somewhere off to the W.  Someone was doing target practice.

On the way up to the saddle between Boulder Hill and Storm Hill. Photo looks SE.

At the saddle, Lupe was between Boulder Hill to the SW, and Storm Hill to the NE.  A spur of Flume Trail No. 50 goes all the way up to the top of Boulder Hill, but there isn’t any trail going up Storm Hill.  Lupe would have to bushwhack through the forest.

Carolina Dogs love bushwhacking!  Despite the distant gunfire, Lupe grew bolder after leaving the Flume Trail.  She followed the saddle NE over to Storm Hill.  She was going away from the gunfire, which helped her confidence.

On the saddle leading to Storm Hill. Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching the SW slope of Storm Hill, Lupe traveled right on up a rocky spine of the mountain.  The climb would have been easier if she had simply avoided the rocks.  However, she did get glimpses of Boulder Hill from the rocks she wouldn’t have otherwise had.

Partway up the rocky SW spine of Storm Hill. Photo looks E.
Although climbing the rocky SW spine of Storm Hill was harder and slower than avoiding the rocks would have been, Lupe did get some views of nearby Boulder Hill (L) she wouldn’t have otherwise had. Photo looks WSW.
The top of Boulder Hill (5,331 ft.) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
Boulder Hill (Center) is only 0.5 mile SW of Storm Hill. Lupe had been there half a dozen times, but she’d never been to Storm Hill before. Photo looks SW.

The SW spine of the mountain topped out near the S end of a broader ridge.  This broader ridge was also quite rocky, but wasn’t as steep.  Lupe gained elevation more slowly as she followed it N.  To the E, Loop could see little but forest.  However, she did come across places where she had views off to the SW or W.

The SW spine of the mountain led to this broader ridge, which was still quite rocky. Lupe gained elevation more slowly than before as she followed this ridge N. Photo looks N.
Another look at Boulder Hill (R) from the broader ridge. The top of Silver Mountain (5,405 ft.) (L) can be seen sticking up between the trees. Photo looks SW.
Getting closer to the summit! Loop along the W edge of the broad ridge. Photo looks N.

The summit of Storm Hill was close to the N end of the broad ridge.  A fairly large summit area, perhaps 30 or 40 feet in circumference, was the highest part of the mountain.  Pine trees obscured the views in some directions.  However, Lupe enjoyed a panoramic view to the N and NE from the top of small cliffs.

At the summit of Storm Hill. Photo looks NNE.
From the top of small cliffs along the edge of the summit area, Lupe had a panoramic view to the N and NE. Photo looks NE.

By moving around the summit area, Lupe found at least partial views in other directions.

Looking SE.
Custer Peak (6,804 ft) (R of Center) with a lot of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

Storm Hill has a double summit.  Two widely separated areas contained within 5,160 foot contours are on the topo map.  Lupe was at the W high point where a site elevation of 5,192 feet was shown.  SPHP presumed this was the true summit of Storm Hill.  It was hard to get much of a look at the E high point, but there was a spot from which it could be seen.

The E high point was a long, skinny ridge.  It was steeper and more rugged-looking territory.  The highest parts of the E ridge appeared to be about as high as where Lupe was, but SPHP was pretty certain they weren’t any higher.  Satisfied that Lupe had actually reached the true summit of Storm Hill, SPHP didn’t make her spend the extra hour it might have taken to visit the E ridge, too.

This rough skinny ridge E of Storm Hill’s true summit looked almost as high. Much of it was also within a 5,160 foot contour on the topo map. Photo looks E.

Lupe returned to the true summit of Storm Hill, before taking a little break.  Meanwhile, SPHP took a few more photos of the views.

After an initial look around, Lupe returns to the true summit of Storm Hill. Photo looks N.
Looking NE with help from the telephoto lens. The opening in the far ridgeline seen on the R is the area known as “The Gap” in Rapid City.
Baker Park (Center & L) is the grassy open area down below. Photo looks NW.
Boulder Hill (L), Mount Warner (5,889 ft.) (R), and Saint Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.) (Center in the distance) from Storm Hill. Photo looks SW.

Lupe spent 20 minutes enjoying the summit of Storm Hill before moving on.  The Carolina Dog started back retracing her route S along the broad ridge.  She soon left the ridge, however, veering SW to explore easier terrain in the forest below.  She reached Flume Trail No. 50 again well N of the saddle where she’d originally left it.

By 11:06 AM (42°F), Loop was back at the G6.  Storm Hill had been fun, but had taken her less than 2 hours.  Plenty of time left in the day for more adventures!  SPHP drove S.  Lupe had fun barking at cows, horses, and eventually even some buffalo.At 1:52 PM (41°F), SPHP parked the G6 at the mouth of a grassy valley N of USFS Road No. 336 (Flynn Creek Road) less than a mile S of Northeast Cicero Peak (6,240 ft.).  Lupe had been to Northeast Cicero Peak twice before, but her most recent ascent was now more than 2.75 years ago.  For fun, she would try a new route up.

Lupe started out climbing NW up a thickly forested ridge on the W side of the grassy valley.  She eventually emerged from the trees.  An open hilltop was only a short distance away.  Loop went to the top for a look around.  She was a little S of High Point 5821.  Cicero Peak (6,166 ft.) was in view not quite a mile to the SW.

Lupe reaches the hilltop S of HP 5821. Cicero Peak (Center) is in view. Photo looks SW.
On her journey up NE Cicero Peak, Lupe would head for the high grassy area seen on the L before turning toward the summit on the R. Photo looks NNE.

Continuing onward, Lupe skirted High Point 5821 to the NE.  The partially forested slope was so steep, she might just as easily have gone to the top of High Point 5821, but she didn’t.  Upon reaching the saddle N of High Point 5821, the American Dingo turned N.  She climbed a mostly open slope up to a high grassy area with a commanding view.

Lupe reaches a high grassy area SW of NE Cicero Peak’s summit. From here she had a commanding view of Cicero Peak (Center). Photo looks SW.

From the high grassy area, Lupe headed NE gaining elevation at a slower pace.  Most of this part of her climb was in a forest containing scattered lumpy rock outcroppings.  In the shade of the pines, snow was several inches deep.

The final approach to the summit from the WSW was a gentle climb up a grassy slope.  A N/S running rock ledge only 2 or 3 feet high was at the top of the mountain.  A lone boulder sat a short distance beyond the ledge.  That boulder, which appeared to be slightly higher than the ledge, was the true summit of Northeast Cicero Peak (6,240 ft.).

Lupe reaches a rock ledge only a couple of feet high at the top of NE Cicero Peak. The true summit appeared to be the lone boulder seen on the L. Photo looks E.
Lupe on NE Cicero Peak. Photo looks E towards the plains of western South Dakota with help from the telephoto lens.
Up on the lone boulder, the true summit of NE Cicero Peak. Photo looks N.

The summit area was large and grassy.  A few pines along the N edge blocked views to the NW, while a dense forest hid views to the S and SE.  In other directions, Lupe could see big swaths of the Black Hills.  The most interesting views were of higher country to the N.

Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) is the highest peak on the L. Closer, but also on the L, is heavily forested Custer Mountain (6,089 ft.). Peak 6735 is the middle of the 3 high points seen just R of Center. Photo looks NNE.
Same scene, but with more help from the telephoto lens. Custer Mountain is in the foreground. Black Elk Peak on the L in the distance. Peak 6735 is the middle high point on the R. Photo looks NNE.
Looking NE now. Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) is in the distance on the R.
Mt. Coolidge (L) with help from the telephoto lens. Lupe had recently visited Mt. Coolidge for the first time in over 5.5 years on Expedition No. 218.

A cool W breeze blew.  A low, weary sun, partially obscured by a bank of clouds, dangled listlessly above the horizon.  Northeast Cicero Peak felt forlorn, sad.  Mid-afternoon, but it felt late.  Late in the day.  Late in the year.  Winter solstice was only 3 days away.  Christmas soon after that.  A week later, 2017 would be over.  Another year gone forever.  A depressing thought.

Neither Lupe nor SPHP knew it yet, but Northeast Cicero Peak was the last mountain Lupe would climb in 2017.

At the summit of Northeast Cicero Peak, the last mountain Lupe would climb in 2017. Photo looks E.
Back on the small ledge. Cicero Peak is visible on the L. Photo looks WSW.
Cicero Peak (Center) from the higher summit of NE Cicero Peak. Photo looks SW.

Northeast Cicero Peak was the highest mountain this far S in the Black Hills.  The views were impressive.  Yet the somber mood of the mountain made SPHP restless after only 10 minutes on top.  Maybe action would add some cheer?  Lupe set off into the forest, intent on exploring the mountain’s S ridge on the way down.

The S ridge wasn’t a very good route.  It was full of obstacles.  Dense stands of young pines, slick snowy spots, rough rock outcroppings, deadfall timber, all the usual rigamarole except fences to deal with.  Not much in the way of views as compensation, either.  For what seemed like a long way, the Carolina Dog didn’t lose much elevation.

The summit of Cicero Peak with help from the telephoto lens on the way down NE Cicero Peak’s S ridge. Photo looks SW.

Lupe finally came to a rare open spot in the forest where the going was easier.  Beyond it, the descent began in earnest.

After a slow trek along NE Cicero Peak’s upper S ridge, Lupe reached this rare open spot in the forest. Her descent became much steeper beyond this point. Photo looks S.

Once the descent really got going, it was one steep slope after another.  Lupe avoided rocky areas as much as possible, which became progressively easier the lower she went.  She eventually turned SW, ultimately reaching the floor of the valley W of the S ridge.  Here, the American Dingo found a faint road leading back to the G6 (4:08 PM, 36°F).

The last of 33 Black Hills, SD Expeditions in 2017 was over.

Loop on Northeast Cicero Peak at the end of her Black Hills, SD adventures in 2017.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                    Prior Black Hills Expedition

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Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 3: Tayo Lake to the Summit (7-11-17)

Day 4 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Lupe wanted out.  SPHP unzipped the door of her “tiny house”, and she vanished into the night.  A nearly full moon hung over the mountains bathing the world in a ghostly glow.  It was late, very late.  Hours of light rain showers were over.  Fortunately, the tiny house and everything in it had escaped being drenched.  The clear sky was a welcome sight.

SPHP scanned nearby terrain tying to pick out the Carolina Dog.  She was nowhere to be seen.  Many secrets remain concealed beyond the pale power of moonlight to reveal.  SPHP listened.  Nothing but a soft breeze sighing.

Ten minutes later, she came racing back all out of breath.

Out having adventures in the night without me, aye Looper?

Maybe.  A short one.

Want to tell me about it?

Nope, gonna go back to sleep now.

Smart.  You’ll need some of that energy for Wind River Peak in the morning.

SPHP zipped the door of the tiny house shut as soon as Lupe was in.  Best get as much shuteye as possible.  Dawn couldn’t be more than a few hours away.

The moon was gone the next time Loop wanted out.  Sol blazed well above the horizon.  Morning!  This was it!  Breakfast.  Final preparations.  Everything ready.  The great moment arrived.  Now or never!  Wind River Peak or bust!  Lupe and SPHP headed N abandoning the tiny house.  Nothing but up, now!  2,000 feet should about do it.

Lupe, who had been too tired to eat yesterday evening, was chock full of energy and ambition.  She ran this way and that sniffing around big rocks.  No squirrels, today!  The American Dingo was already above tree line.  SPHP was feeling the effects of the thin air, and two long days struggling to get to base camp above Tayo Lake.  At the top of the first steep rise, SPHP paused to catch breath.

The S slopes of Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) were directly ahead.  The way up seemed straightforward enough.  Just keep climbing while avoiding any steep snow.  Lupe would work her way NW to gain a S ridge that looked snow-free all the way to the top.  It would be a long boulder hop, but that was OK.  American Dingoes are great scramblers!  Nothing was in view that should prevent Lupe from reaching the summit.

Lupe pauses for a look around early on. Her best route up Wind River Peak looked obvious enough. Lupe would head for the upper portion of the bare S ridge seen on the L leading to the top. Photo looks NW.
Looking back at Mt. Nystrom (12,356 ft.) (Center). Tayo Lake is in view beyond Lupe. She had spent the night on a broad flat part of a ridge 400 ft. above Tayo Lake. She’s already higher than that here. Photo looks S.
Snowclad Lake 11,145 is in view below a towering wall of rock. One of the high points along the ridge must be Continental Tower (12,088 ft.). Photo looks SW.

Lupe and SPHP continued on, pausing now and then to look around and let SPHP catch breath.  The terrain grew rockier.  Lupe gained elevation steadily, but reaching the rocks slowed SPHP down considerably.  The Carolina Dog had plenty of time to wander, sniff and survey the tremendous views.

Lake 11,145 again from higher up. The high peak in the distance R of Center is likely Peak 11,826. Photo looks SW.
Getting close to the snow fields on Wind River Peak’s upper S slopes. Lupe is heading for the snow-free portion of the S ridge seen above the most distant snow field L of Center. Photo looks NW.
Mt. Nystrom (12,356 ft.) and Tayo Lake are in the distance on the L. Lake 11,145 is below on the R. Lupe’s “tiny house” is too far away to be seen, but is situated down on the flat ridge above the near side of Tayo Lake.
Lake 11,145 with help from the telephoto lens.

Looper couldn’t completely avoid the snow fields, but had no problem traversing them.  She enjoyed the snow, and crossed at points that SPHP could manage.  She made it above the last big snowfield, and gained the upper S ridge she’d been aiming for.  The rest of the trek was just a long, long scramble up the rocks.

The morning had been breezy until now, but it was just plain windy way up here on the S ridge.  A gusty 20 to 30 mph wind blew out of the W.  Occasionally the air was calm for a moment or two between gusts, but most of the time the wind was powerful enough to be an annoyance.  Lupe stayed E of the ridgeline for a little protection whenever possible.

Getting close to the last big snowfield and the upper S ridge. Photo looks NW.
At the base of the final snowfield. Photo looks N.
Lupe gains the S ridge. The terrain was like this the rest of the way to the summit. Long, slow, but nothing too scary or difficult at all! Photo looks N.

After a long scramble up countless rocks, the S ridge began to level out.  Loopster had to be getting close to the top!  She encountered a couple of larger rock formations, but had no problem scrambling around them.  Ahead the ridge broadened out to perhaps an acre or more of gently sloping jumbled rock.   Was that the summit?

A rock formation at the far N end looked noticeably higher than anything else in sight.  Lupe headed for it.  Even before she got there, it became apparent she was indeed approaching the summit of Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.).  SPHP was overjoyed!  The Carolina Dog had made it!  Lupe leapt up onto the rock formation.  She stood proudly in the breeze atop the glorious mountain.

Loopster astride the summit of Wind River Peak. Photo looks N.
Come on up, SPHP! These views are amazing! Photo looks N.
A seemingly endless procession of peaks of the Wind River Range stretch away beyond the horizon. Photo looks NNW.

SPHP joined Lupe at the top of the mountain.  The sky was a bit hazy, whether due to smoke or humidity was hard to say.  Even so, the views were simply superlative!  SPHP congratulated Lupe on her peakbagging success, and shook her paw.  For 10 minutes, Loop and SPHP sat in the wind up on the highest rocks, while SPHP stroked her soft ears and fur.

It wasn’t noon yet, but seemed like time for at least a snack.  Lupe and SPHP got down off the summit rocks, and took shelter from the wind next to them.  While Lupe devoured Taste of the Wild, SPHP had a Cliff bar, then searched around for a survey benchmark shown on the topo map.  Nothing.  SPHP couldn’t find a Nalgene bottle that was supposed to contain a summit register, either.

Puzzling.  Wasn’t this the summit?  It seemed obvious that it was.  There were a couple of competing high points that didn’t look too much lower, though.  One was to the E and the other along the W edge of the summit area.  Better have Loop check them out, too, just in case.

Yeah, that was a good idea.  Lupe had discovered a pika living among the summit rocks and was chasing it.  The pika knew its home well, and had an easy time avoiding the Carolina Dog bent on its destruction.  Completely fascinated by the elusive pika, Lupe was racing and bounding around oblivious to monstrous cliffs only a few feet away.  Better put a swift end to this merry chase before it was Dingo overboard and the pika scored a victory!

Lupe found nothing among the large rocks at the E high point.  Since she was close to the E edge of the summit area, she went a little further to check out the views over there.

Lupe near the E end of the summit area. Part of Poison Lake, which Lupe had gone around yesterday on the way here, is visible far down in the canyon a little to her R. The highest point beyond Poison Lake on the horizon is Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.).
Looking NE down the canyon (L) leading to Pinto Park. Part of the largest of the Deep Creek Lakes is seen straight up from Lupe’s head. Portions of East Echo Lake and the more distant Baer Lakes are also in view in the canyon.
The same view with help from the telephoto lens. High Point 11,146 is the low hill just beyond the N end of the largest of the Deep Creek Lakes on the far R. Photo looks NE.
Chimney Rock (12,653 ft.) is whichever knob on the barren ridge seen in the foreground is highest. This ridge is part of the route up Wind River Peak from Deep Creek Lakes. Photo looks ENE.
Part of the turquoise pond at the upper end of the deep canyon leading NE down to the largest of the Deep Creek Lakes is in view more than 1,300 feet below Lupe. Photo looks NNE.
Looking WNW back across the field of jumbled rock constituting Wind River Peak’s summit area. The true summit is seen on the R.

Having seen the views to the E, Lupe visited several of the highest rocks along the mountain’s W edge.  No sign of any benchmark or registry turned up here, either.  However, the views to the W were even more glorious, due in no small part to the eye-catching proximity of Temple Peak (12,972 ft.) and East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.).

Lupe had even more spectacular views from some of the highest rocks along the W edge of Wind River Peak’s summit area. Temple Peak (L) and East Temple Peak (R) dominated the scene. Photo looks WSW.
Temple Peak (Center) and East Temple Peak (R) from Wind River Peak. Photo looks WSW.
Temple Peak from yet another rock. Photo looks WSW.
East Temple Peak (far L) and the S end of Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.) (the near ridge beyond Lupe on the R). Photo looks WNW.

Beyond Haystack Mountain (11,978 ft.), Lupe could see the famed Cirque of the Towers, a gorgeous area she had been to before in 2015.  Closer by, a slice of Black Joe Lake was in view more than 2,900 ft. below the American Dingo’s lofty vantage point.

Haystack Mountain (L) is the long sharp ridge beyond Loop. Beyond the R end of Haystack Mountain near Center is the famed Cirque of the Towers, a gorgeous area Lupe once visited in 2015. Photo looks NW.
The famed Cirque of the Towers dominates the foreground. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Unfortunately, there was enough humidity, smoke or whatever it was in the air to ruin any really distant views Loop would have had on a totally clear day.  With 360° of incredibly beautiful nearby panoramic splendor to admire, though, it hardly mattered.

While Loop relaxed, SPHP took some close ups.

Temple Peak (12,972 ft.) Photo looks WSW.
Looking down on East Temple Peak (12,600 ft.). Photo looks W.
Looking as far NNW as possible. SPHP didn’t recognize any of these peaks from this vantage point.

Loop?  Loop, where are you?

The American Dingo had been resting at SPHP’s feet just a minute or two ago, but she wasn’t here now.  SPHP quickly scanned Wind River Peak’s summit area.  Nada.  Where had she gone off to?

Sneaky Dingo!

Suddenly there she was, leaping and scrambling madly around the rocks over at the true summit.  She hadn’t forgotten that pika, and had slunk off to pursue it again.  No doubt mountaintop pika hunting was great sport, but it involved an element of real danger for both pika and Dingo.

A sneaky American Dingo back at the true summit of Wind River Peak. Photo looks WNW.
Fun times on Wind River Peak.

Once more, SPHP put an end to the merriment.

Lupe stayed up on the summit only a short while longer.   An hour had flown by already.  Maybe it was time to think of moving on?  Many hours of daylight remained, but as slow as SPHP is climbing a mountain, SPHP somehow manages to be even slower going down rocky slopes like those on Wind River Peak.

Partly for the pika’s sake, and partly to get on with it, Lupe and SPHP left Wind River Peak’s true summit for the final time ambling S.  Loop got up on a boulder for a last look at Temple Peak.

A final look at Temple Peak before Lupe left Wind River Peak’s summit. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe and SPHP continued S toward the rock formations near the start of the steeper descent down the S ridge.  Of course, the views here were tremendous, too.  Lupe delayed the start of her descent until SPHP had taken a few more photos of the magnificent Wind River Range.

The magnificent scene to the S. Mt. Nystrom (11,356 ft.) (L) is in the distance. Now familiar Tayo Lake (L of Center) and Lake 11,145 (R) are the two largest lakes in sight. Portions of several other lakes can be seen as well. Crow Lake is at Center. Mountain Sheep Lake on the far L. Little Sandy Lake is in the distance on the R. Photo looks S.
Another look S with help from the telephoto lens. Tayo Lake (L), Lake 11,145 (lower R), a slice of Crow Lake (Center – beyond the ridge), and Little Sandy Lake (R in the distance) are all in view.
Continental Tower (12,088 ft.) is at Center on the near ridge. Along the more distant ridge are Little Sandy Lake Buttress (11,427 ft.) at the far L end, Peak 11,795 (R of Center), and Peak 11,826 (R). Lake 11,145 is at lower L. Little Sandy Lake is in the distance along the L edge. Photo looks SSW.
Looking SE. Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.) (L of Center) is the high point on the horizon. Mt. Nystrom (11,356 ft.) is on the R. Poison Lake is in the deep canyon in front of Atlantic Peak. Mountain Sheep Lake is in the deep canyon R of Center. Tayo Lake at lower R.
Little Sandy Lake is in the distance at Center. Part of Crow Lake can be seen beyond the ridge on the L. Closer by also on the L is part of Tayo Lake. Little Sandy Lake Buttress is on the far ridge at R. Looking S with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking SSW. Little Sandy Lake Buttress (11,427 ft.) is at the L end of the more distant ridge. Peak 11,795 at R along the same ridge. Continental Tower (12,088 ft.) is R of Center on the near ridge. Lake 11,145 at lower L and Little Sandy Lake in the distance along the L edge.

An hour and a half after she’d arrived at the summit of Wind River Peak, Lupe began her descent in earnest.  The Carolina Dog did lots of exploring, sight-seeing and waiting around as SPHP slowly clambered down the long rocky slopes.  Two hours passed before Lupe was below the big snowfields again.

Back below the snow fields. Photo looks NW.

Another two hours passed before she arrived back at her “tiny house”.  Although Wind River Peak didn’t look 2,000 feet higher from here, it most certainly was.  Lupe and SPHP could both vouch for that now.  At least 4 hours of daylight remained, but it had been another strenuous long day already.  Lupe joined SPHP inside her tiny house for a needed nap.

It was evening by the time Lupe emerged again feeling refreshed.  The rest had done SPHP some good, too.  SPHP proposed a stroll over to Lake 11,145.  Lupe was enthusiastic about the idea, but she never made it all the way to the lake.  Streams and marshes blocked the final approach, and SPHP didn’t want to get wet feet.

As close to Lake 11,145 as Lupe got on her evening stroll. SPHP didn’t want to get wet feet crossing streams and marshes to go the rest of the way. Photo looks W.

Loop circled around to the S end of the big ridge her tiny house was pitched on.  For a long time, Lupe and SPHP sat together on a rock overlooking Tayo Lake watching the evening light fade from the mountains.

When the mosquitoes got bad, it was time to return to the tiny house.  Lupe remained outside while SPHP arranged things inside for the coming night.  When all was ready, SPHP went back out.

N farther up the ridge, more than 100 feet away, Lupe was all alone.  She rested on the ground, still scanning the vast darkening wilderness.  She saw SPHP, but didn’t come.  For 10 minutes Lupe and SPHP watched each other from a distance.  Loop didn’t move a muscle.  What was she pondering all by herself?

Hard to say.  SPHP would never really know, but if a guess had to be made, she may have been thinking about the elusive pika she would never see again that lives at the very top of towering Wind River Peak.

Tayo Lake at day’s end, Wind River Range, Wyoming 7-11-17

Related Links:

Prior Adventure

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 4: Tayo Lake to Worthen Meadow (7-12-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 219 – Twin Sisters Range High Point & Elk Knob (12-10-17)

Start: 12:24 PM, 58°F at the intersection of Song Dog Road & USFS Road No. 373

Lupe hopped out of the G6.  20 expeditions and almost 8 months ago, she had come here to climb the Twin Sisters Range High Point (4,980 ft.).  She’d made it to the top easily enough, but when she’d gone farther E to explore more of the area, the buzz of an unseen rattlesnake had put a quick end to that notion.

Even though it was an incredibly warm day for December, rattlesnakes weren’t likely to be stirring now.  Lupe should be able to do all the exploring she wanted to today.  The Carolina Dog started out heading E on USFS Road No. 373.

Lupe on USFS Road No. 373 approaching the W end of the Twin Sisters Range. Photo looks E.

A mile from the G6, Lupe left the road and started the short, but steep climb up a SW slope to the W end of the Twin Sisters Range.  Despite a few brief stops for SPHP to catch breath, Looper was soon at the top.

Lupe begins her trek up the short, but steep SW slope. Photo looks NE.
Lupe arrives up on top at the far W end of the Twin Sisters Range. Photo looks WNW.

A dangerous, rusty barbed wire fence was laying on the ground.  SPHP made certain Lupe didn’t get into it.  A 20 mph wind blew out of the NW.  Normally, it would have been frigid here in December with a wind like that.  Today, though, it was so warm out the wind was only a nuisance.

Much of this area had burned in a forest fire years ago.  As a result, Lupe had sweeping views of barren, forlorn vistas.  Dull, dry, dead grass covering the land did little to add any cheer.

The sweeping views Lupe had looked barren and forlorn. High Point 5017 is seen on the L. Photo looks WSW.

The actual high point of the Twin Sisters Range was still another 0.25 mile E.  After enjoying the views from the W end of the ridge, Lupe and SPHP set off for the cairn at the summit.

The summit of the Twin Sisters Range (R) was still another 0.25 mile to the E. Photo looks ENE.
Looper starts for the summit (L). Photo looks E.

The stroll to the summit was easy.  Lupe had great views the whole time from the open ridge.  It wasn’t long before Loop was at the summit cairn.  Of course, the NW wind was blowing here, too.  Not enjoying the wind, Lupe stayed only long enough at the summit for photos by the cairn, and a fairly quick look at the sights.

Looper by the cairn at the top of the Twin Sisters Range High Point (4,980 ft.). It hadn’t taken her long to get here, but the NW wind was as bad as ever. Photo looks E.
Looking SE from the summit cairn. Buffalo Gap is seen in the distance on the L. Elk Knob is the partially forested low hill seen straight up from Lupe’s head (R).
Looking W back along the ridge Lupe had just traveled across.
High Point 5017 is on the far L. Photo looks WSW.
Looking SE farther along the the Twin Sisters Range. Buffalo Gap (Center) is near the horizon. Elk Knob is the low mostly forested hill on the far R.
The pine-dotted hill on the R is at the lower E end of the Twin Sisters Range. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

Loop and SPHP left the Twin Sisters Range High Point continuing E down to a lower part of the ridge.  Loop regained some lost elevation climbing up to High Point 4872.  High Point 4872 was windy, too, but Lupe paused briefly for a few photos.

Looking back at the Twin Sisters Range High Point (seen straight up from Loop) from High Point 4872. Photo looks NW.
Elk Knob (4,752 ft.) (R) from High Point 4872. Lupe would be going to Elk Knob next. Photo looks SE.
High Point 4820 is on the L. Buffalo Gap is R of Center. Looking SE from HP 4872.

At High Point 4872, Lupe was already well beyond where she’d been back in April on Expedition No. 199.  The topo map showed another lower hill a mile off to the SE known as Elk Knob (4,752 ft.).

Elk Knob became Lupe’s next objective.  She started down High Point 4872’s S slope, and was quite happy when she finally reached a valley where the wind was barely stirring.

On the way down High Point 4872’s S slope. The Twin Sisters Range High Point is in view on the R. Photo looks NW.

The trip up Elk Knob was easy.  Lupe first went to a saddle N of the hill, then followed the N slope up.  The hill was heavily forested, until she got near the top.  Lupe liked being in the forest on Elk Knob a lot better than on the bare, windy Twin Sisters Range ridge.  She had a good time racing around sniffing and exploring.

The summit of Elk Knob proved to be a big, flat grassy area rimmed with pines.  The pines were dense toward the N, but more sparse elsewhere.  For a fairly low hill in this area, Elk Knob had some pretty good views.  The wind wasn’t too bad, either, except near the more exposed W end.

Lupe on the big, flat grassy summit of Elk Knob. Photo looks S.
The view to the S was surprisingly open and nice. Lupe could see quite a long way from here. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Happy Lupe on Elk Knob.
Here Lupe is down a little off the summit on Elk Knob’s upper W slope. It was windier here than elsewhere, but she could see the Twin Sisters Range High Point (on the R straight above her head), and much of the territory she’d just traveled through. Photo looks NW.
View to the NNE from Elk Knob.

Lupe took a break on Elk Knob.  The usual water and Taste of the Wild, with an apple for SPHP.  Then it was time for more exploring.  Loop went NE down off Elk Knob, before turning E and SE.  She wandered along several dirt roads.  Only one had a sign, which said she was on USFS Road No. 373.1D.

The Carolina Dog ventured down into a fairly deep canyon.  She followed a faint remnant of a road at the bottom, but it eventually ended.  Loop climbed up the NE side of the canyon, and reached a ridge she took SE.  The sun was getting low by the time she reached a big fence.  This had to be the fence along the W side of Wind Cave National Park.

Lupe explored territory E of Elk Knob until she got to this big fence somewhere along the W boundary of Wind Cave National Park. Photo looks SE.

The fence was as far E as Lupe could go.  It was getting late enough so she needed to start back anyway.  On her return trip she avoided the canyon by staying farther N.  She eventually passed back over the saddle N of Elk Knob heading NW.

The sun wasn’t quite down yet as Lupe neared the Twin Sisters Range again.  Why not return to the summit?  Well, there was the wind, for one thing.  It wasn’t bad at all down here, but was still blowing up there.  However, seeing the sunset from a mountaintop seemed more important.  Up Lupe went.

Climbing the Twin Sisters Range again, this time from the S. Photo looks NW.
Nearing the Twin Sisters Range High Point (L) for a second time today. Photo looks N.

The last bit of the sun was disappearing behind High Point 5017 when Lupe reached the Twin Sisters Range High Point (4,980 ft.) again.  The sky was almost completely clear, with only a few small clouds to the W.  With so few clouds, the sunset never really got a chance to develop into anything special.

Lupe reaches the Twin Sisters Range High Point for the 2nd time today, just as the last bit of the sun slips below HP 5017. Photo looks W.

For a little while, Lupe and SPHP sat together in the wind on the barren, forlorn mountaintop, watching the light fade until hopes for a colorful sky died old and gray.  Time to go.

Being on the move again felt good.  It was fun picking a way down the steep rocky slope, and marching across a field back to the road.  Next came a mile of shared silence and solitude beneath a darkening sky.  At the G6, a few stars glittered above.  Water, a little more Taste of the Wild, and Lupe was homeward bound.  (5:03 PM, 46°F)

On the Twin Sisters Range High Point right after sunset, 12-10-17

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                  Prior Black Hills Expedition

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 199 – Twin Sisters Twice & Castle Rock (4-12-17)

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Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 2: Divide & Conquer, Tayo Park to Tayo Lake (7-10-17)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Lupe hadn’t seen the stars all night.  In the wee hours, SPHP woke to the sound of raindrops on her “tiny house”.  Not good.  The rain cover had been lost years ago.  If it rained hard at all, everything would get soaking wet.  Lupe wanted out to sniff around in the darkness.  SPHP unzipped the door and let her go.

The Carolina Dog returned before too long, content to lay down on her red sleeping bag again.  SPHP folded it over her for warmth.  Light rain continued intermittently for hours.  A gray dawn finally heralded the new day.  Everything was damp.  Better get going nonetheless.

Lupe in her “tiny house” at the start of a gray morning in the Wind River Range.

After a brief bite to eat, it was time to find out what fate had in store.

May as well leave things here while we do a quick reconnaissance, Loop.  This might all be over before we even get started.

Over!  Last night, you said you had a plan!

Yes, two plans actually.  The first one is no doubt doomed from the start.  We’ll know for certain in a few minutes.  The second plan might well suffer the same fate.  Maybe, though, it will leave us with some hope, at least for a while.

Oh!  Doesn’t sound too good.  Are we going back soon, then?

Yes, Looper, if neither plan works, we won’t have any choice.  Our Wind River Peak dreams will be kaput.  Come on!  Let’s go down to the river, and get this over with.

The Middle Popo Agie River was only a couple minutes away from the tiny house.  Surprisingly, the river had actually dropped an inch or two overnight.  It wasn’t enough, not nearly enough.  Plan A was a failure.  Lupe would still have to traipse 80 feet or more through a shallow lake just to get to the river channel where the ford was.  No way!  The river was way out of its banks, and far too dangerous.

That was Plan A, SPHP?  You’re kidding, right?  You knew the river would still be flooding!

Of course, but yeah, hoping that the river had gone down enough to ford it was Plan A.  We at least had to come and take another look, didn’t we?  Thought maybe it would look more possible this morning than when I was tired last night.  It doesn’t.  Let’s go check out Plan B.

Plan B had better be a doozie compared to Plan A!

Lupe had spent the night camped only 0.25 mile away from the intersection of Trails No. 707 & 706 up in Tayo Park.  From there, she would have had two possible routes to Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.).  She could have taken No. 706 N to Deep Creek Lakes, or No. 707 W to Tayo Lake.

The original idea was to make a nice loop up via Deep Creek Lakes and down by Tayo Lake.  SPHP had seen trip reports where others had done it that way.  However, the Wind River Range still had tons of snow in the high country.  Snow melt was flooding the Middle Popo Agie River.  Loop couldn’t even get to the ford on Trail No. 707, never mind across the river.

Lupe and SPHP returned to her tiny house, then took a shortcut S to Middle Fork Trail No. 700.  On the way, Lupe could see Tayo Creek on the opposite side of the valley roaring down a hillside to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River only a little upstream of the ford.  That sight was what had given SPHP hope yesterday evening.  Maybe Loopster wasn’t totally thwarted yet in her efforts to get to Wind River Peak?

From this rock not far from her tiny house, Lupe could see Tayo Creek roaring down out of the forest to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River. Photo looks NW.
Tayo Creek surges into the flooded valley of the Middle Popo Agie River. The tremendous flow in Tayo Creek was what gave SPHP the idea for Plan B. Photo looks NW.

Lupe reached Middle Fork Trail No. 700 a little S of where she’d left it yesterday evening to take Trail No. 707 to the flooding Middle Popo Agie River.  A small wooden sign along No. 700 read simply “Tayo Park”.

Hey, Loop, look at that!  We’re already at Tayo Park!  Lower Tayo Park, that is.  The topo map only shows Tayo Park on the other side of the Middle Popo Agie River 120 feet higher than where we are now.  Guess there’s an Upper and a Lower Tayo Park?  At least now we can say you did make it to Lower Tayo Park, if not the upper one.

Nothing’s really changed, though?  We’re no better off than we were?

Not yet, sweet Dingo!  We’ll know soon if there’s any hope of improvement.

Lupe and SPHP followed Middle Fork Trail No. 700 going S toward Sweetwater Gap.  The Middle Popo Agie River snaked through flooded Lower Tayo Park just W of the trail.

The Middle Popo Agie River meanders through flooded Lower Tayo Park. Photo looks SW.

The S end of Lower Tayo Park was only 0.2 mile away.  When Lupe got to it, SPHP led her off Trail No. 700 over to the Middle Popo Agie River.

Hey, you’re in luck Looper!  It’s on!  Let’s go back and get the tiny house and rest of the gear.

Plan B is going to work?

Well, at least at the start.  We’ll just have to see how far we can get.  No guarantees at all.

So what is Plan B exactly?

Divide and conquer.

Meaning?

Meaning we’re coming back to cross the Middle Popo Agie right here.  Most of the flow at the ford comes from Tayo Creek, which is actually by far the larger of the 2 streams above their confluence in Lower Tayo Park.  After crossing the Middle Popo Agie, we’ll still be on the wrong side of Tayo Creek.  You will have to keep following it upstream until either there’s a way across, or some impassable obstacle blocks the way forward.  The farther we can make it upstream, the more tributaries we’ll get by, the smaller Tayo Creek will be, and the better our chances of reaching the trail again somewhere.

So in the meantime, we’re going to let the waters divide, and conquer them one smaller stream at a time?

Precisely, dear Dingo!

So there won’t be a trail?

Nope, a total bushwhack for miles, probably.

Oh, I love bushwhacks, SPHP!  Plan B sounds like a great adventure!

Doesn’t it, though?

What are we waiting for?  Let’s run!

Lupe streaked back to Trail No. 700.  Of course, SPHP was much slower, so Loop had to keep returning to bark encouragement.  It wasn’t too long, though, before SPHP had retrieved the tiny house and all the gear.  Once again, Lupe stood on the E bank of the Middle Popo Agie River at the S end of Lower Tayo Park.

Lupe along the E bank of the Middle Popo Agie River at the S end of Lower Tayo Park. Above the confluence with Tayo Creek, the river was much smaller here. Lupe would have no problem crossing to the W (L) bank all on her own. Photo looks NNE.

The Middle Popo Agie River was still a good-sized, fast flowing stream, but much smaller here than farther downstream where Tayo Creek added its torrential flow.  SPHP forded the river first.  Loop followed close behind.  The waters were still pretty deep for her, but she managed to get across without any help.  Plan B was underway!

Loop headed N along the W side of Lower Tayo Park.  The whole bottom of the valley was a bog or worse.  Lupe climbed a little up onto drier ground along the valley’s edge.  She passed over a small forested ridge and came to a field on the other side, much of which also proved to be boggy.  Loop crossed the wet field, and again climbed to drier ground in the forest.

The roar of Tayo Creek could be heard ahead.  Lupe continued climbing steadily through open forest toward the noise.  The terrain wasn’t bad at all.  Mosquitoes were, though.  Those miserable blood suckers were awful again today.  0.25 mile N of where Lupe had crossed the Middle Popo Agie, she reached a rock where she could see Tayo Creek rushing down a narrow channel below a steep bank.  A small island was surrounded by whitewater.

Lupe reaches Tayo Creek 0.25 mile N of where she’d forded the Middle Popo Agie River. Photo looks WNW.

Somewhere not too far away on the other side of Tayo Creek was Trail No. 707 to Upper Tayo Park.  As fully expected, Lupe had no way to cross the raging stream yet.  Lupe and SPHP turned W staying in the forest and following Tayo Creek upstream.

After gaining only a little over 100 feet of elevation, the terrain began to level out.  Lupe had reached the S side of Upper Tayo Park.  The surface of Tayo Creek was calm here, though ripples showed the water was still moving fast.  A bog full of bushes prevented the Carolina Dog from getting anywhere close to the creek, which looked deep.  On the far side, the bog extended hundreds of feet beyond the stream.

Looking N across Tayo Creek toward a portion of Upper Tayo Park. The intersection of Trails No. 707 & No. 706 is somewhere on the other side of the stream, but Loop had no way to get across. Photo looks NNE.

The American Dingo continued WSW following Tayo Creek.  Beyond Upper Tayo Park, she started gaining elevation again.  Tayo Creek reverted to a whitewater torrent.  Though most of the ground in the open forest was dry, Lupe and SPHP crossed many snowdrifts.  Despite the mosquitoes, Loop was having a fantastic time!  Squirrels were everywhere!  The Carolina Dog’s incessant yipping and yapping echoed through the valley.

SPHP’s promise, recently made back at Jack Squirrel Peak (8,942 ft.) in the Laramie Range, to bring Loop to higher mountains where there would be squirrels galore was being fulfilled!

Above Upper Tayo Park, Tayo Creek became a whitewater torrent again. Lupe wasn’t worried about getting across. The forest on this side of the stream was full of squirrels to bark at! Photo looks W.

Tayo Creek was becoming even more wild as Lupe continued upstream.  SPHP feared it would eventually flow right up against cliffs, or other obstacles on the S side of the valley that Lupe couldn’t get past.  So far, though, it hadn’t.  Instead of finding herself blocked, Lupe discovered a lovely waterfall.

Lupe discovers a waterfall on Tayo Creek.

Lupe came to two separate waterfalls on Tayo Creek.  They weren’t far apart.  The lower falls were the largest.  Staying in the forest, the American Dingo had no problem continuing upstream beyond them.

Lower Tayo Creek Falls. These lower falls were the largest. Photo looks NNW.
On a snowbank between Lower & Upper Tayo Creek Falls. Apparently the snow here was quite tasty.
Lupe reaches Upper Tayo Creek Falls. Some of the open areas had an awful lot of snow around by the time Loop got this far. Fortunately, there wasn’t as much snow in the forest. Photo looks NNW.

Loop didn’t have to travel very far beyond the waterfalls before the valley began to open up more.  The American Dingo could now see some of the high country ahead.

Above Upper Tayo Creek Falls, the valley started to open up. Lupe began getting glimpses of some of the high territory ahead. Photo looks W.

Loop had been making good progress.  SPHP realized that the valley opening up meant the Carolina Dog was fast approaching Poison Lake.  If she couldn’t get around it, Poison Lake would spell the end of Plan B’s success.

Poison Lake!  You never said anything about a Poison Lake, SPHP!

Oh, don’t worry about it Loopster.  I can’t imagine it’s actually poisonous.

Ridiculous humans!  Then why on earth would it be called Poison Lake?

How should I know?  Someone once had a poor experience, I suppose.

Well thanks so much for the heads up, SPHP!  Think I’ll just keep eating snow and drinking from these smaller streams, if you don’t mind.

Suit yourself, Loop.  I think you could drink gallons from Poison Lake and be none the worse for the wear, though.

Lupe went over the crest of a little saddle, and there it was.  Charmingly named Poison Lake, dead ahead!  Loop went right on down to the shore, but did not wet her whistle.  The view was reassuring.  Yeah, Loopster shouldn’t have any problem getting around the S side of the lake.  That was welcome news!  Poison Lake had been a potentially serious obstacle.

Lupe reaches the NE shore of enticing Poison Lake. Photo looks SW.
Views from the NE shore were reassuring. The terrain around the S side of the lake looked easy enough. Lupe would be able to get around Poison Lake, contrary to SPHP’s unwarranted fears. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe headed S through the forest close to the E shore of the lake.  The steepest terrain was near the SE end of Poison Lake.  Lupe had to climb some distance above the shoreline.  She came upon a big rock platform with a great view of the lake.  Loop could even see Wind River Peak from here!

The sky was finally clearing.  The day was brighter, more cheerful, and pleasantly warm.  The mosquitoes, which had been bad until now, were less troublesome on the big rock.  Plan B was going well, much better than SPHP had feared.  Time for a break to celebrate Lupe’s success in reaching this lovely spot!

Lupe and SPHP lingered on the big rock overlooking Poison Lake for close to half an hour, enjoying the views and successful execution of Plan B to this point.

Lupe reaches the big rock platform at the SSE end of Poison Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Wind River Peak (in the distance on the L) was visible from the big rock at Poison Lake. Photo looks NNW.

When break time was over, Lupe and SPHP continued the rest of the way around the S side of Poison Lake to the W shore.  Lupe then began following Tayo Creek farther upstream.  SPHP had hoped Loop would find a way across the stream beyond Poison Lake, but those hopes were quickly dashed.

The whole valley was boggy anywhere near Tayo Creek.  The creek was smooth surfaced again as it flowed through nearly level terrain.  The stream was so wide, it was hard to tell where Poison Lake ended and Tayo Creek began.

Beyond the main body of Poison Lake was this wide channel which might still have been part of the lake. Photo looks NNE.
Looking back at Poison Lake. The rock Loop was on in the previous photo is seen below on the R where the snow is. Photo looks NE.

Eventually Tayo Creek narrowed down enough so it was clear Loop was beyond Poison Lake.  She finally came to a place where relatively dry ground went almost all the way to the creek’s edge.  Loop and SPHP both made it onto a big white rock where it was possible to peer down into the water.

Good heavens!  The water was very clear, but remarkably deep.  It was easily over SPHP’s head, and perhaps twice that depth.

Lupe by Tayo Creek upstream from Poison Lake. Loop & SPHP both made it out to the big white rock at Center. From there Lupe could peer down into the clear, cold water. Tayo Creek’s depth was easily over SPHP’s head here! The rocky hill at Center in the distance is High Point 10,662. Photo looks WSW.

Since crossing Tayo Creek was still totally out of the question, Lupe pressed on.  She had to stay quite a distance from the stream channel due to surrounding bogs.  Looper traveled mostly in the forest or along its edge.  The Carolina Dog was making progress, but even the hillsides were soaking wet now.  Rivulets of snow melt ran down every ravine, and pooled in every low spot.

Often it was advantageous to travel over huge snowdrifts at the forest’s edge.  Usually the drifts held even SPHP’s weight.  For Lupe, they were Dingo super highways.  As SPHP marched onward, Lupe dashed about the forest in a relentless search for the next squirrel to annoy, frequently enjoying success.

Nearly a mile from Poison Lake, Lupe finally reached a major obstacle.  A stream much larger than any other tributaries of Tayo Creek she had come to so far cascaded down rocky rapids from the S.  This had to be the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake.

Nearly a mile SW of Poison Lake, Lupe reaches a major tributary of Tayo Creek cascading down from Mountain Sheep Lake.

Crossing the tributary from Mountain Sheep Lake was an absolute necessity.  Success would be a huge step forward in the divide and conquer plan.  Failure meant defeat plain and simple – Lupe would have to turn back without ever having reached Wind River Peak.

Loop had reached the tributary at a bad spot.  It didn’t look safe to cross here.  The search began for a better place.  The American Dingo needed to find one fast.  The map showed that Mountain Sheep Lake probably wasn’t any more than 0.1 mile away.  If Lupe reached the lake without finding a decent ford, it was all over.

The luck of the Dingo was with her!  Going upstream, Lupe soon came to a place where the rocks were smaller.  The creek spread out widely and evenly without deep spots.  She could do this!

Lucky Lupe finds a decent place to ford the creek coming down from Mountain Sheep Lake. Photo looks SW.

Lupe had no problem fording the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake all by herself.  This success was a huge boost to her chances of reaching Wind River Peak.  Once across, Loop and SPHP turned NW.  Tayo Lake wasn’t much more than 1.5 miles away now!

Before long, Lupe could see a signpost sticking up out of a snowbank ahead.  She’d reached a trail junction!  Both trails were hidden beneath the snow, but one sign pointing W was for Trail No. 705 to Coon Lake.  The other sign was for Trail No. 707 to Tayo Lake!

Lupe came to this signpost sticking up out of the snow at the intersection of Trail No. 705 to Coon Lake and Trail No. 707 to Tayo Lake. Although both trails were hidden beneath snow, just getting to them was a huge psychological boost! Photo looks N.

Beyond the snowbank, Lupe found the actual trail to Tayo Lake.  She quickly lost it again beneath more snow, and was almost immediately confronted with another big stream.  This was the tributary of Tayo Creek coming down from Crow Lake to the W.  After searching around in a bog not far from the trail intersection, Lupe found a way across this relatively large stream, too.  More progress!

A steady climb NW through the forest began as Loop forged ahead looking for the trail to Tayo Lake.  It took a while to find it again.  Even once it was found, it was hard to keep it that way.  The trail was a fairly minor single track here.  It kept disappearing beneath more snow, or disguising itself as a small stream.

Trail No. 707 to Tayo Lake was hard to follow. It kept disappearing beneath snow drifts and disguising itself as a small stream.

About 0.5 mile from the trail intersection, the terrain leveled out.  Trail No. 707 hardly existed here, but cairns showed Lupe was still on the right track.  She was getting close to the final big creek crossing.  Fording Tayo Creek could be delayed no longer.

0.5 mile NW of the trail intersection where Lupe had seen the signpost, the terrain leveled out. Here she’s standing next to one of the cairns showing she was still on the right track. Photo looks WNW.
Looking NNW toward Wind River Peak (L of Center).

Trail No. 707 was nowhere in sight when Lupe reached Tayo Creek again.  A cairn on the opposite N shore showed that this was the ford, though.  The creek was greatly reduced from the torrent it had been miles downstream.  Divide and conquer had worked!  SPHP waded across.

The trail was nowhere in sight when Lupe reached a much reduced Tayo Creek again. This was the right spot, though. A cairn for Trail No. 707 is in view on the far shore sitting on the snow to the R. Photo looks NE.

Even though Tayo Creek was greatly reduced, the water was still over Lupe’s head by the S bank where she reached it.  An icy plunge into the swift stream was still intimidating.  SPHP encouraged her to come, but Looper sat forlornly on the far bank looking worried.

Lupe had been doing great, but yet another icy plunge into a stream that was still over her head was intimidating. She did not follow SPHP across, and did not respond to encouragement. Photo looks SSW.

Poor Loopster was afraid.  How many scary, icy river crossings did she have to make in a single day, anyway?  SPHP decided to go help her, and turned around momentarily to drop the backpack.  Even more afraid of being abandoned than she was of Tayo Creek, Loop plunged in and crossed all by herself.  What a trooper!

Lupe’s climb resumed up a forested hill.  Once again, the terrain soon leveled out.  Up ahead, beyond a boggy plain, Loop saw a snowy saddle.  That saddle was where Tayo Creek flows out of Tayo Lake.  Lupe was almost there!

Across a small boggy plain, Lupe could see a snowy saddle (L). That saddle was where Tayo Creek flows out of Tayo Lake. Lupe was almost there! Wind River Peak is seen on the R. Photo looks NW.
Following cairns across the boggy plain toward the snowy saddle. Photo looks NW.

After crossing the bog, Lupe started climbing.  She stayed NE of the snowy saddle following avalanche tracks through a stunted forest.  Views behind her improved rapidly as Loop gained elevation.  The view of Mt. Nystrom (12,356 ft.) was particularly impressive.

As Lupe made the final climb to Tayo Lake, the views behind her to the S improved rapidly. Mt. Nystrom (Center) was particularly impressive. Photo looks S.
Mt. Nystrom (R of Center) from near Tayo Lake. Photo looks S.

Finally, 250 feet above the boggy plain, Lupe saw her objective – Tayo Lake!  Plan B – Divide & Conquer had worked!  Despite what SPHP had thought were poor odds, Lupe had made it.  She was really here!

Tayo Lake was absolutely gorgeous!  A layer of snow and ice floated on most of its surface.  Impressive rock walls guarded the S and W shores.  Two miles N, and nearly 2,500 feet higher, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) beckoned.  Tomorrow Lupe would have a chance to climb it.  For the first time, her prospects for success suddenly seemed bright!

After gaining 250 feet of elevation from the boggy plain, suddenly Lupe was at gorgeous Tayo Lake!
Upon reaching Tayo Lake (L), Lupe’s prospects for success climbing Wind River Peak (R) tomorrow suddenly seemed bright. Photo looks NW.
Despite what SPHP had regarded as poor odds, Divide & Conquer had worked! Lupe rests on a grassy shelf with a great view of Tayo Lake. The Tayo Creek outlet is below on the L. Photo looks W.
Beautiful Tayo Lake in the Wind River Range, WY. Photo looks WNW.

To the N & E of Tayo Lake, a long, broad ridge rose steadily toward the NW.  Parts of the ridge were covered with stunted forests, but most of it was open ground.  To further improve the chances of a successful ascent of Wind River Peak tomorrow, Lupe and SPHP started up the ridge.

From the broad ridge, Lupe could soon see a large waterfall plunging into a canyon to the E.

Continuing up a broad ridge NE of Tayo Lake, Lupe soon had a view of a large waterfall plunging into a canyon to the E. Photo looks ENE.
The same waterfall with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe climbed more than 400 feet above Tayo Lake to a flat part of the ridge straight N of the lake.  Although the afternoon had been mostly sunny, rain showers were now threatening.  SPHP didn’t put up Lupe’s “tiny house” right away.  Instead, Lupe and SPHP took a tour of the ridge to see the sights.  An even higher mini-Tayo Lake, Lake 11,145, was in view to the W.

Rain showers were threatening as Lupe approached a flat part of the ridge 400 feet above and straight N of Tayo Lake. Photo looks WNW.
From the ridge N of Tayo Lake, Lupe could see another beautiful little lake. Lake 11,145 was tucked beneath a wall of rock that reminded SPHP faintly of the famed Cirque of the Towers, also in the Wind River Range 8 miles to the NW. Photo looks WNW.
Looking down on Tayo Lake from the ridge to the N. Mt. Nystrom (12,356 ft.) is on the horizon (Center). Photo looks SSE.

It was early evening and had been another long day.  Lupe and SPHP were weary.  Both curled up together beside a big rock where there was a grand view of Tayo Lake 400 feet below.  The rock had an overhang offering partial protection from any rain showers.  Drowsiness set in.  Before long, Lupe and SPHP were completely out it.

The nap was helpful.  When it was over, the sky was clearer.  Lupe and SPHP set off to the N on top of the ridge looking for a place to pitch Lupe’s “tiny house”.  A good spot was hard to find.  Although it looked grassy, the ridge was actually rather rocky and dotted with boulders.  Finally Lupe came to a place at around 11,250 feet elevation where the ground was lumpy, but not rocky.  This would do.

SPHP put up the tiny house.  Lupe had a great view of Lake 11,145 to the W from here.  She could see Wind River Peak to the N.  It was supposed to be more than 2,000 feet higher, but didn’t look that high.  No doubt that was an illusion.  Tayo Lake wasn’t in sight, but a 500 or 600 foot stroll to the S was all it took for a grand view.

Lupe rests beside her “tiny house” pitched at 11,250 ft. elevation. Mt. Nystrom is in view (L of Center). Photo looks SSE.
The view of Lake 11,145 from the tiny house. Photo looks WNW.

What a day it had been!  Lupe had tons of fun racing around the woods barking at squirrels.  She had forded 4 major streams, countless small creeks, crossed numerous soggy bogs and huge snow drifts, climbed on rocks, and traveled many a mile.  Divide and Conquer had worked!  The Carolina Dog was now in position for an ascent of Wind River Peak tomorrow.

She’d had hardly anything to eat all day, though.  Part of a Cliff bar and a single bowl of Taste of the Wild.  Didn’t matter.  Lupe was too tired to eat.  The sun wasn’t down quite yet, but Loop was ready to go inside her “tiny house” and curl up on her sleeping bag.

Outside, clouds were gathering.  A few raindrops struck the tiny house.  SPHP pulled some of her sleeping bag over the exhausted Carolina Dog.

So far, so good, Loopster.  You did great again today, sweet Dingo!  Just hope we don’t get drenched tonight.

Lupe didn’t hear it.  She was already in Dingo dreamland still barking happily at all those lovely squirrels.

One tired puppy snoozing in her “tiny house” at 11,250 feet 1.5 miles SSE of Wind River Peak, WY 7-10-17.

Related Links:

Prior Adventure

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 3: Tayo Lake to the Summit (7-11-17)

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 218 – Mt. Coolidge (12-3-17)

A mile N of Hazelrodt picnic ground, SPHP parked the G6 off USFS Road No. 341 at a pullout by French Creek (10:28 AM, 50°F).  Lupe leapt out.  She ran down to the creek for a look.  Even though the last 3 weeks of November had been very warm and dry, the edge of the stream was rimmed with ice.

Early December and yet another unseasonably warm day. Not a single snowflake on the ground, but Lupe did find ice along the edges of French Creek.

Mt. Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was Lupe’s peakbagging goal for Expedition No. 218.  She’d been there once before, but it had been a very long time ago.  Lupe had only been 15 months old when she’d climbed Mt. Coolidge for the first time way back on Expedition No. 13.

Today Lupe was trying a new route.  She would explore the mountain’s SW ridge.  The Carolina Dog started out traveling ENE on the S side of French Creek.  At first, she was in a forest of large pines that had been thinned out.  This was easy ground, but didn’t last long.  Soon Loop was leaving French Creek and the large pines behind.

Looking down on French Creek. Photo looks N.

The climb up the SW ridge began in earnest on a steep slope crowded with young pines.  After gaining close to 150 feet of elevation, Lupe reached a small rocky ridge.  Off to the SW, she could see the NE face of Northeast Cicero Peak (6,240 ft.).

After gaining nearly 150 feet of elevation, Lupe reached this small rocky ridge where she had her first distant views. Northeast Cicero Peak is the big hill on the L. Photo looks SW.

Beyond this first small ridge, Lupe passed through a forest of larger pines again.  She emerged from the forest at the edge of a big meadow.  Ahead was a sparsely forested hill.

Beyond the first small ridge, Lupe passed through a forest before reaching this grassy meadow. The sparsely forested hill ahead was Lupe’s next destination. The fence at Center is the W border of Custer State Park. Photo looks NE.

Looper headed for the hill.  When she reached the top, she got her first look at Mount Coolidge ahead.  Behind her, the view of Northeast Cicero Peak was better than before.

Loop gets her first look at Mt. Coolidge (R of Center) ahead. Photo looks NE.
From the sparsely treed hill, the view of Northeast Cicero Peak (L) was better than before. Photo looks SW.

Lupe turned E following a ridgeline.  Much of the area had burned at some point, which opened up views in various directions.

Looking S from an opening on the ridgeline.

The irregular ridge wound E and N.  Lupe came to a succession of high points, each one higher than the last.  The high points were separated by shallow saddles where Looper lost a bit of elevation, but she always regained it quickly.

It was too bad this was such an overcast day.  A little blue sky and sunlight would have made some of the views far more striking.

At the next high point. Custer Mountain (6,089 ft.) is the biggest forested hill L of Center. Photo looks NW.
Getting closer! Mt. Coolidge is seen beyond Lupe. She would be heading for the almost barren hill on the L next. Photo looks NE.
Much of the ridge Lupe was following had burned at some point. There were still live trees, but most were young. Photo looks NE.
Looper in a saddle on the way to the next high point. Mt. Coolidge is on the far R. Photo looks N.

Lupe had a good time sniffing and exploring.  She was making progress, too.  Each time Mt. Coolidge came into view, she was closer than before.

Each time Mt. Coolidge (Center) came into view, Lupe could see she was making progress. Photo looks NE.
Looking back to the SW again. Northeast Cicero Peak (L), Daisy Peak (5,948 ft.) (R of Center), and Kruger Peak (5,838 ft.) (far R) are all in view.
Looking S back down the ridge Lupe came up.

After more than a mile on the winding, partially burnt ridge, Lupe finally reached the end of the burn area.  The last couple of high points she came to were far more heavily forested.  On one slope, spindly dog hair pines grew so thickly, it was slow going trying to force a way through.

Loop reaches a high point near the end of the burn area. Hwy 87 is in view on the L. Photo looks ENE.
SPHP designated this rock outcropping “Big Pine” due to a scattering of far larger pine trees here than any Loop had come to for a while. Mt. Coolidge in the background. Photo looks NE.
NE of “Big Pine” Lupe passes through a thick dog hair forest leading down into the deepest saddle of the whole journey to Mt. Coolidge. With the trees so close together, this area was slow going for SPHP. Photo looks NE.

After passing through the dog hair pine forest, Lupe arrived at the bottom of the deepest saddle of her whole trek to Mt. Coolidge.  She came across a dirt road here, but followed it only a little way.  She left the road to start the longest, steepest part of the climb up Mount Coolidge.  The forest had been thinned here, and the slope was full of leftover slash.

Lupe reaches the longest, steepest part of the climb up Mount Coolidge. The forest had been thinned here, and the whole slope was covered with leftover slash. Photo looks NE.

Near the top of the long slope, the slash gave way to jumbled rocks.  The rocks were easier to deal.

Near the top of the long slope, the slash gave way to jumbled rocks. Photo looks NNE.

The rocky part led to a larger rock outcropping at the SW end of a nearly level ridge.  Loop was now so close to Mt. Coolidge that she could see the road that leads to the lookout tower on top.

At the top of the long slope, Lupe reaches a rock outcropping. Mt. Coolidge is now so close that the access road to the lookout tower is in view. Photo looks NE.
Looking back at Northeast Cicero Peak (Center) from the rock outcropping at the end of the long slope. Photo looks SW.

Loop headed for the access road.  Once she reached it, she stayed on it the rest of the way.  It circled around to the N clear over to the opposite side of Mt. Coolidge. Lupe ended up approaching the summit from the NE, even though she had spent nearly all her time coming up the SW ridge.

Approaching the lookout tower at the top of Mt. Coolidge. Photo looks SW.

The access road is closed this time of year.  There wasn’t a soul around when Lupe and SPHP reached the top of Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.).  The first thing Loop did was check out the lookout tower.

Looper at the lookout tower. Photo looks SW.
View to the SSW from the tower’s observation deck. Northeast Cicero Peak (6,240 ft.) is on the R.
View to the NNE from the observation deck.

Lupe went up to the observation deck.  A sign said no Dingoes allowed.  Hmmph!  Loop didn’t stay long before retreating, since that’s the way they wanted to be about it.

Lupe and SPHP went over to the NW side of the summit area.  Some of the highest territory in the Black Hills was in sight.  After a few photos, it was time for a break.

From the NW side of the summit area Lupe could see some of the highest mountains in the Black Hills. Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the high point on the horizon directly above Lupe. Photo looks NW.
Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.) (L) and Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) (Center) are on the horizon. The Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) are between them. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe drank some water, then curled up on the ground next to her silver bowl.  She ate a little Taste of the Wild, but not too much.  There hadn’t been much of a breeze at all on the way up, but now a chilly wind blew out of the SW, moaning in the trees and antenna wires.  In solitude, Lupe and SPHP gazed out across the hills.

Lupe was last here 205 Expeditions ago.  More than 5.5 years had gone by.  The first time she’d come, Loop was still basically a puppy.  SPHP sat petting Lupe, stroking her soft fur.  Her birthday was coming soon.  Not long afterwards, 2017 would draw to a close.  Time marches on.  Best not to think about it too much.

C’mon, Looper!  Guess we’ve seen what there is to see up here today.  Too bad the sun didn’t come out.  Mt. Coolidge is a sweet viewpoint, but the light just isn’t what it might have been.  All our photos are kind of faded and washed out.  I feel kind of the same way for some reason.

Loop was ready.  One more photo before going, then the Carolina Dog took off down the mountain.  She went SW, skipping most of the winding route the access road takes, and headed directly for the SW ridge.

Last photo from Mt. Coolidge before departing for the SW ridge again. Photo looks E.

It felt good to be on the move again.  Going back down Mt. Coolidge’s long SW ridge with all its ups and downs, twists and turns, was fun.  Lupe had a blast sniffing and investigating whatever caught her attention.

The G6 was only 2 miles away.  SPHP was surprised at how late it was when Lupe got back (3:37 PM).  Less than 1.5 hours of daylight remained.  Still time enough to do a little something, but not what SPHP had originally intended.

Half an hour’s ride in the G6 brought Lupe to a trailhead (4:11 PM, 52°F).  The sky had finally started clearing off, but sunset was imminent.  As light faded, Lupe enjoyed a mile long trek.  At first she followed a creek, but most of the way was over a rolling prairie with views.  Clouds brightened, then darkened again as the sun abandoned the Black Hills.

Loop reached a minor high point, only a small hill, but a peakbagging goal nonetheless.  By now it was so dark, the flash had to be used.  No dawdling!  This was it for Expedition No. 218.  Lupe turned and started back.  SPHP hurried, trying to keep up, as the Carolina Dog headed for home (5:23 PM).

On another hill at day’s end, 12-3-17.

Note:  Most visitors to Mt. Coolidge drive to the summit on a wide, gravel access road which originates along Hwy 87 in Custer State Park.  The access road is closed during the off-season.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                Prior Black Hills Expedition

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Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 1: Worthen Meadow to Tayo Park (7-8-17 & 7-9-17)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Wow!  Was that it?  SPHP suspected it was.  Although the G6 said it was 97°F outside, Lupe was riding in air-conditioned comfort.  She was still E of Shoshoni on Hwy 20/26 in central Wyoming.  Far to the SW, the SE end of the fabulous Wind River range had come into view.

The sight of a towering white peak looming above all the others was faintly unsettling even from here.  Shimmering through the desert heat, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) and the surrounding high mountains had far more snow on them than SPHP had expected.  So much snow up there more than a week into July?  Maybe Lupe didn’t stand a chance.

The day had started off well enough.  Right away the American Dingo knew something was up.  For hours she’d followed SPHP’s every footstep, yipping and prancing anxiously.  Finally, just as she was losing hope, everything was ready.  Into the G6!  Suddenly Lupe was setting off on her 2nd Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2017 (11:09 AM)!

Only 20 days ago, after the fiasco at Jack Squirrel Peak (8,942 ft.) in the Laramie Mountains at the end of her previous Dingo Vacation, SPHP had promised to take Lupe to even higher mountains where she would find plenty of squirrels.  Loop hadn’t dared to hope SPHP would keep that promise so soon.  Once she reached Wyoming, though, she knew good things were in store.  Happy days ahead!

On the way to Wyoming’s glorious Wind River Range.
Oh, yeah! I’m pumped! Bring on Wind River Peak!

By 6:00 PM, Lupe reached Lander at the foot of the Wind River Range.  At the S end of 3rd Street, Lupe found Lander’s sweet city park by the Middle Popo Agie River.  Saturday night, but even so, SPHP was astonished at how busy it was!  The place was packed with people, kids and dogs.  A DJ was playing music.  Free camping is allowed!  Tents and RV’s were all over the place.  The park felt like a festival was in progress.

Yeah, this was going to be fun!  Lupe would spend the night here, too.  Nearby, a bridge arched over the Middle Popo Agie River.  On the other side was another, less-developed park.  It would be quieter over there.  Loop and SPHP went over the bridge, then took a walk along a mowed path to the bank of the river.  It was still hot out.  The Carolina Dog promptly got in the Middle Popo Agie to cool off and get a drink.

Lupe promptly hopped into the Middle Popo Agie River to cool off and enjoy a fresh snow-melt drink.
At the beautiful Middle Popo Agie River in Lander, WY.
The town of Lander, WY has a great city park at the S end of 3rd Street. Green lawns, big shade trees, a couple of little streams, and free camping to boot! No wonder it’s so popular! Loop was going to spend the night here, too!

Lupe had never been to Lander before, so an evening tour of the town was in order.  Looper was particularly interested in a couple of statues that caught her imagination.

Lupe loves watching pronghorn antelope race across the high Wyoming prairies and deserts. Naturally, she thought this pronghorn statue in Lander was cool, too.

Being an Indian warrior on horseback looked like it would be a pretty adventurous life! This one was conveniently close to McDonald’s, too.

After seeing some of Lander’s sights, SPHP ran in to Safeway to buy some fried chicken for dinner.  Then it was back to the city park for the rest of the evening.  SPHP set up Lupe’s “tiny house” for her.  Loop feasted on chicken, then spent the rest of the evening exploring and playing.  When the sun went down, the music stopped and the party was over.  Lupe was still excited.  It took a while for SPHP to persuade her to hit the hay.

The next morning, the American Dingo rose bright and early.  Time for action!  Today Lupe would start for fabulous Wind River Peak!

Lupe next to her “tiny house” in Lander City Park the next morning. Today she would start for fabulous Wind River Peak!

At the S end of 5th Street, SPHP drove out of Lander on Hwy 131.  Lupe was soon approaching Sinks Canyon.  She had time to get out and take a look around Sinks Canyon State Park.  SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout near “The Rise”.

On the way up Sinks Canyon on Hwy 131, Lupe first came to “The Rise“, where the Middle Popo Agie River resurfaces after disappearing into a limestone cavern known as “The Sinks” 0.25 mile upstream.

Looper on the viewing platform at “The Rise“. She could see big trout swimming in the pool below.
Looking at “The Rise“, a large pool where the Middle Popo Agie River resurfaces from underground caverns. Water could be seen pouring into the pool from several points along the canyon wall. Photo looks downstream (NE).

If Lupe had been a bear, “The Rise” would have been quite a fascinating place!  The Middle Popo Agie River resurfaces from underground caverns here.  Lupe could see water pouring into a large pool from various points along the side of the canyon.  The pool was full of big trout which couldn’t swim any farther upstream.

American Dingoes don’t fish much, though, so Lupe and SPHP went on to see “The Sinks”.

The Sinks was only 0.25 mile upstream.  Here the Middle Popo Agie River disappears into a limestone cavern.  Ordinarily the entire river goes underground.  This morning the Middle Popo Agie was such a torrent that it entirely flooded the cavern.  Plentiful overflow continued down a surface channel.

The Sinks. The entire Middle Popo Agie River normally completely disappears into this limestone cavern. However, the Middle Popo Agie was a torrent this morning. The cavern was full and plenty of water continued downstream in a surface overflow channel.
Lupe cools her paws in the overflow channel. During normal water levels this spot is high and dry. Not today!
The Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River was a torrent this morning. Here it is shortly before taking the plunge down into The Sinks.

After visiting The Sinks & The Rise, Lupe and SPHP continued up Sinks Canyon on Hwy 131.  The highway eventually became Louis Lake Road, which wound very high up onto the upper SE side of the canyon.  The view looking back down the canyon was impressive.

Looking back down Sinks Canyon. Hwy 131 can be seen below. Photo looks NNE.

After a tremendous elevation gain, Louis Lake Road finally started to level out shortly before passing by Frye Lake.  A mile past Frye Lake was a R turn on USFS Road No. 302 to Worthen Meadow Reservoir.  Most of No. 302 was fine, but parts of it were very rough for the G6.  Nevertheless, the G6 made it through, and Lupe arrived at Worthen Meadow Reservoir.

Lupe at Worthen Meadow Reservoir. Photo looks E.

Well, this was it!  Lupe would start for Wind River Peak from here.  The Carolina Dog snapped at flies while SPHP got everything ready.  The trek should take three days and two nights.  Loop and SPHP shared some of the remaining fried chicken by the lake, then went in search of the TH on the W side of USFS Road No. 302.  Soon Lupe was on Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702 (10:45 AM, 71°F).

This first part of the trail was wide and very well worn.  Lupe traveled through an evergreen forest gradually gaining elevation.  After 0.67 mile, she reached her first objective, Roaring Fork Lake.

After only 0.67 mile on the Stough Creek Lakes trail, Lupe reaches her first objective, Roaring Fork Lake. Photo looks SW.

There were people and a few dogs at Roaring Fork Lake.  Most were hanging out at some big rocks along the N shore.  Lupe went out on the rocks, too.  The small lake was pretty.  Lupe could see high cliffs and peaks with snow in the distance beyond the lake.

Nearby, Roaring Fork Creek flowed N out of the lake.  The creek was deeper and much broader than SPHP expected, though the current looked gentle.  Where did the trail cross the creek?  SPHP had expected a bridge, but none was in sight.  Maybe it was a little downstream from here?

Lupe and SPHP followed what seemed to be a trail N through the forest near the E side of the stream.  The trail went a short distance, then vanished.  No trail and no sign of a bridge anywhere.  This couldn’t be right!  Lupe returned to Roaring Fork Lake.  SPHP talked to a few people.  None knew where the trail went, or where there was a bridge.  Roaring Fork Lake was as far as they intended to go.

When all else fails, consult the map!  The map showed the trail crossing Roaring Fork Creek right at the N end of the lake.  Hmm.  Lupe returned to the stream where it exited Roaring Fork Lake.  On the far shore, the trail was in plain sight.  No bridge!  That wasn’t good news at all.  The current didn’t look strong, but Lupe had never forded anything like this before.

SPHP waded into the stream.  Lupe followed.  Soon she was swimming.  A large rock protruded out of the water about 2/3 of the way across.  The water was mid-thigh deep by the time SPHP reached the downstream side of the rock.  Even though the current was gentle, Loop was having a hard time swimming against it.  She was in danger of being swept downstream.

SPHP grabbed Lupe and plucked her out of Roaring Fork Creek, placing her on the big rock.  SPHP continued on across, leaving the Carolina Dog stranded.

Stuck on the rock in Roaring Fork Creek where the stream leaves Roaring Fork Lake. Photo looks S.

Loop was safe on the rock, but she wasn’t sure what to do next.  SPHP encouraged her to jump back into the river and swim.  She hesitated.  Carolina Dogs aren’t water dogs.  Roaring Fork Creek was way over her head.

Lupe hesitates on the rock, uncertain if she wants to leap back into the river like SPHP was encouraging her to do, or not. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe made up her mind, she gave it her all.  With a mighty leap she launched herself into Roaring Fork Creek.  She sank below the surface, then popped up a moment later.  She’d leapt so far she only had to swim a few feet before she could touch bottom and scramble to shore.  Good girl!

Lupe shook herself off.  SPHP continued on the trail.  Soon Loop was leading the way.  The creek had been refreshing.

It had also been worrisome.  Lupe would have to cross other streams on the way to Wind River Peak.  Weren’t there going to be any bridges?  Eventually Loop would have to cross the Middle Popo Agie River.  She had seen what a torrent the Popo Agie was back at The Sinks.  How on earth could she get across that without a bridge?  The obvious answer was – she couldn’t.

The trail led SW through the forest gaining elevation more rapidly than before.  0.75 mile from Roaring Fork Lake, the trail leveled out as it emerged from the forest at the edge of a vast marsh.  A wooden walkway went all the way across the marsh.  That was reassuring.  Lupe trotted across.

Crossing the marsh 0.75 mile beyond Roaring Fork Lake. The trail on the far side of the marsh would lead Loop toward the saddle seen on the L. Photo looks WNW.

Beyond the marsh, Trail No. 702 went W up a valley, gaining elevation at an increasing pace.  Higher up, Lupe came to a long series of big switchbacks.  It was warm out now, and just plain hot going uphill.  Loop and SPHP stopped periodically for water and to catch breath.  Never for long, though.  Mosquitoes and flies were a constant bother.  SPHP slathered on Deet, but it was only partially effective.

The trail became rockier.  For the first time, Lupe started getting views back down the valley.  She could see Frye Lake and Fossil Hill (9,089 ft.) beyond it.

Lupe by Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702. Frye Lake is in the distance on the L. Fossil Hill is beyond the lake. Photo looks ENE.

The long uphill grind seemed like it would never end.  After Lupe had gone 2 miles from the marsh and gained 1,000 feet of elevation, it finally did.  The American Dingo reached a saddle N of High Point 10,965.  For the first time since the marsh, Lupe was out of the forest.  The saddle was open meadow.  Lupe could see!

What the Carolina Dog saw was a massive mountain dominating other high peaks nearby.  Still 8 miles away as the crow flies, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) was unmistakable.

At the saddle N of High Point 10,965, Lupe came to a meadow where she could see again. What she saw was Wind River Peak, still 8 miles away. Photo looks W with considerable help from the telephoto lens.

The mountain still looked far away.  SPHP was already tired.  It began to dawn on SPHP that Lupe’s journey to Wind River Peak and back was likely to take more than 3 days and 2 nights.  Better go easy on the supplies, which were none too ample to begin with.

Still the view wasn’t entirely discouraging.  Although there was a lot of snow on the mountain, there were bare patches, too.  The terrain didn’t look bad either.  If Lupe could get to Wind River Peak, it looked like she stood a good chance of reaching the summit.

The view of Wind River Peak wasn’t entirely discouraging. Yes, there was a lot of snow on the mountain, but there were bare patches, too. The terrain didn’t look bad, either. If Lupe could get to the mountain, SPHP believed she could get to the top. Photo looks W with maximum assistance from the telephoto lens.

Lupe continued on.  Trail No. 702 started turning SW and headed back into the forest.  Lupe still got occasional glimpses of Wind River Peak, but none so good as she’d had back at the saddle.  She was now losing elevation.  Slowly at first, but eventually more rapidly as she reached some switchbacks.  The trail turned N and went around a hillside before dropping sharply.

More than a mile from the saddle, Lupe came to flatter terrain.  The ground was damp many places, and the trail muddy.  Orange colored ponds were scattered in the forest, and the mosquitoes were terrible.  The trail turned SW again and Lupe regained a little elevation.  The trail was increasingly muddy.  In some places it was just a stream.  SPHP kept expecting Lupe to come to an intersection, but none appeared.

Lupe cools off on the “trail”.

SPHP started to believe Lupe had somehow missed a turn onto Trail No. 704.  However, rushing water could be heard not too far ahead.  May as well check that out before turning back.  Lupe soon reached a rushing stream that poured out of a small lake nearby.

Stough Creek pours out of a small lake.

The stream was Stough Creek, though that wasn’t apparent at first.  A couple hundred feet downstream, Lupe did come to a trail intersection.  Good thing she hadn’t turned back!  A sign didn’t give any trail numbers, but the trail to the L led straight to a bridge over Stough Creek.  The sign said that trail went 3 miles to Stough Creek Lakes, so it had to be Trail No. 702 continuing onward.

The trail to the R was signed as leading in 2 miles to the Middle Fork Trail.  That had to be Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704, the way Lupe needed to go.

Only a couple hundred feet after coming upon Stough Creek, Lupe reaches the intersection of Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702 (L) with Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 (R). Photo looks SW.
From this intersection, Lupe needed to take Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 (seen beyond her) 2 miles to the Middle Fork Trail. Photo looks W.

Lupe headed W on Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704.  She was soon losing elevation steadily.  The trail was never far from Stough Creek, which could always be heard in the forest.  At one point the trail was right next to the creek.  The stream looked even bigger here, reinforced by some major tributary.

Lupe at Stough Creek near the upper end of Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704. Photo looks S.

Only 0.25 mile from the trail intersection, the Stough Creek Basin Trail reached the bottom of a valley where Stough Creek flowed N.  The trail vanished straight into the stream!  No bridge!

Good grief!  Another ford, and a far more worrisome one.  The trail could be seen emerging from the stream on the far bank.  However, the water was high and moving swiftly, completely filling the channel.  It was hard to tell how deep it was.  Stough Creek was already much larger than it had been farther upstream.  It wasn’t as wide as Roaring Fork Creek had been, but looked much more dangerous.  60 or 70 feet downstream of the ford, Stough Creek roared over whitewater rapids.

The more SPHP stared at the ford, the more unnerving it appeared.  Yes, it looked possible, but the current was clearly strong.  One slip might bring disaster.  Lupe would have to be carried over.  If SPHP fell and dropped her, Loop would have only 5 or 10 seconds to escape before the current would sweep her into the whitewater to be battered mercilessly against the rocks.

SPHP thought of Edward Earl, drowned in the Jago River.  Absolutely not!  Lupe wasn’t going to attempt this ford with the water so high.  Either there was a better place to cross, or Wind River Peak wasn’t happening.

Lupe and SPHP looked around.  Immediately upstream, the valley widened out.  Stough Creek went around several sharp bends.  The water was still moving at a good clip, but the surface looked calmer, less threatening.  Maybe one of those bends would be a better spot to try?  Worth investigating.

Low bushes grew thickly on both sides of the creek.  The ground they were on was all wet and marshy.  Lupe and SPHP forced a way through to the edge of the stream.  No deeper than Roaring Fork Creek here.  The water moved fast, but wasn’t turbulent.  No rapids nearby.  If there was a slip, Lupe would have lots more time to escape the river.

Definitely a better situation.  Not great, but should be OK.  Maybe Lupe could even swim across?  SPHP put her leash on so she wouldn’t get separated.  SPHP waded into Stough Creek.  Thigh deep again, but no more.  Harder to move and maintain balance, though.  The current was faster here than back at Roaring Fork Creek.

Lupe came swimming after SPHP.  She was instantly swept downstream, but the leash held her.  It wasn’t that far across, but the leash was choking her and making it hard for Loop to hold her head above water.  SPHP was nearly across, but Loopster was struggling and needed help.  SPHP stopped, pulled her in with the leash, and picked the cold, drenched Dingo up.  A couple more steps, and Lupe leapt to safety.

SPHP waded out.  Lupe was fine and shaking herself off.  The crossing hadn’t been too bad.  The whole ordeal had taken only 30 seconds.  Still it was good to be across.  The experience was a little too intense for comfort.  SPHP vowed Lupe would find a better way across Stough Creek on the way back from Wind River Peak.

Lupe safely across Stough Creek. She crossed at this bend. Photo looks SE.
The Stough Creek ford. It was a straight shot 60 or 70 feet downstream from here to roaring whitewater rapids. Lupe has already crossed safely a little farther upstream. Photo looks E.

Just beyond the ford was another trail intersection.  A look at the map showed that the trail to the R (No. 703) would follow Stough Creek downstream for miles to Three Forks Park.  Lupe needed to stick with Stough Creek Basin Trail (No. 704), which went straight.

Another trail intersection was just beyond the Stough Creek ford. Lupe stayed to the L, continuing straight on Stough Creek Basin Trail (No. 704) seen beyond her.

The terrain was fairly flat for 0.25 mile as Lupe followed No. 704 W from the intersection.  The trail then turned NW and started a steady decent.  The forest here was full of snowdrifts 2-4 feet high.  The trail vanished beneath them.  Lupe and SPHP continued down the valley trying to guess where the trail had gone.

Lost among the snowdrifts trying to find the trail again.

After 15 minutes of wandering through the forest, Lupe had lost enough elevation so she was below most of the snow.  The Carolina Dog found the trail again E of where SPHP had been looking.  Back on track!

No. 704 continued losing elevation.  It was an easy stroll for SPHP, and Lupe was having a great time!  SPHP had promised to take her to higher mountains where there were squirrels, and there were squirrels aplenty in this forest.  The Carolina Dog sprinted from tree to tree.  The whole valley echoed with shrill Dingo barking.  A glorious fun time, for sure!

Back on track again! A pattern seemed to be developing. The smaller the creek, the more likely the trail would have a bridge over it. Lupe needn’t have gotten her paws wet at this roaring cataract. However, none of the serious creek or river crossings seemed to have bridges.

Shortly after finding the trail again, Lupe came to a small opening in the forest.  From a big rock, she saw Wind River Peak once more for the first time in a while.

Shortly after finding the trail again, Lupe came to this opening where she could see Wind River Peak for the first time in a while. Photo looks WNW.
Wind River Peak from a boulder close to Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WNW.

Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 finally ended at another junction near the Middle Popo Agie River.  Lupe had lost 1,000 feet of elevation since leaving the saddle where she’d first seen Wind River Peak.  Now she would start regaining elevation going up the Middle Popo Agie River valley on Middle Fork Trail No. 700 to Tayo Park.  Before heading for Tayo Park, she went to take a look at the Middle Popo Agie River.

Loopster reaches Middle Fork Trail No. 700. From here, she would be going up the Middle Popo Agie River valley to Tayo Park (L).
Looking down the Middle Popo Agie River valley from near the junction of Trails No. 704 & No. 700. Photo looks NNE.
A look down the Middle Popo Agie River shortly after starting up Trail No. 700 to Tayo Park. Photo looks NNE.

The sign at the trail junction said it was only 1.5 miles to Tayo Park.  The moment of truth was coming.  Lupe would have to cross the Middle Popo Agie River to reach Tayo Park.  There had better be a bridge!  The river was simply too large and swift to consider fording.

Loop on her way up the Middle Popo Agie River valley. She would have to cross the river to get to Tayo Park. SPHP hoped there would be a bridge, or she wouldn’t be able to get across.
Following Trail No. 700 to Tayo Park.

After more than a mile on Trail No. 700, Lupe came to yet another trail intersection.  She took a right on Trail No. 707.  If No. 707 had a bridge across the Middle Popo Agie River, the American Dingo would arrive at Tayo Park in less than 0.33 mile.

After more than a mile following Trail No. 700 up the Middle Popo Agie River valley, Lupe reaches a R turn onto Trail No. 707, which would soon bring her to Tayo Park.

Once she was on Trail No. 707, Loopster didn’t have far to go to reach the point where the trail crossed the Middle Popo Agie.  She was soon there.  Lupe had come miles and miles from Worthen Meadow.  The view was most disheartening.

Trail No. 707 disappeared into a shallow lake that filled the river valley.  It was a good 80 feet through the water just to reach ripples that showed where the channel of the Middle Popo Agie River was.  No bridge.  No way forward.

Trail No. 707 to Tayo Park disappears into a shallow lake well before reaching the Middle Popo Agie River. The river was at flood stage and way out of its banks. No bridge. No way across. Photo looks WNW.

All this way, and no bridge!  The river was at flood stage, way out of its banks.  SPHP stared across the shallow lake toward the ford.  Wade 80 or 100 feet out there, just to reach the river channel?  No!  No telling how deep or fast the water was over there.  It may look fairly calm, but a tremendous volume of water was flowing by.  Lupe had seen that all the way up here.  The current would be plenty strong.

Lupe and SPHP scouted along the dry land a little farther upstream.  The American Dingo had a lovely view of a mountain beyond the valley, but the situation wasn’t really any different.  Despair set in.  Clearly it would be foolish to attempt this ford.  Had Lupe met with defeat?  Yeah, this was the picture of defeat alright.

The view farther up the Middle Popo Agie River valley. Lupe saw a lovely mountain, but the situation down in the flooded river valley was still the same. Photo looks SW.
Maybe the view of this mountain was as close as Lupe was going to get to Wind River Peak? Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Farther upstream, a steady roar came from across the river valley.  Lupe could see Tayo Creek rushing down a hillside to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River.  That started SPHP thinking.

Lupe near the end of the day in the Middle Popo Agie River valley. She wasn’t far from Tayo Park, but without a way to get there.

It was evening.  It had been a long, long day.  The mosquitoes were awful.  On a hillside near the river, there was a nice spot to pitch Lupe’s “tiny house” beneath some trees.  SPHP assembled it as rapidly as possible and threw everything inside.  Loop came in, too.  Peace, at last from those infernal bugs!

Loop had hardly eaten anything all day.  SPHP split the last of the fried chicken with her.  She got half a can of Alpo, and a large helping of Taste of the Wild, too.  Meanwhile, SPHP studied the Bridger-Teton national forest map.  It showed few details.  The original plan had called for Loop to either be at Tayo Lake or Deep Creek Lakes this evening.  Not going to happen.  Both were still a long way away.  To get to either, Lupe needed to get across the river to Tayo Park.

Slowly, though, an idea was growing.

I’m exhausted.  C’mon Loop, let’s get some sleep.  We’re staying here tonight.  No sense in doing anything rash.  At least, we’ve got a plan.  It’s a long, long shot, but might work.  We’ll see how feasible it is in the morning.

A plan? What do you mean by “we’ve got a plan“? You’ve seen the river SPHP! Now, I’m worried! Sheesh, what next? Can’t we just go back and bark at squirrels again?

Related Links:

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 2: Divide & Conquer, Tayo Park to Tayo Lake (7-10-17)

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