Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 137 – Harney Peak & Little Devils Tower (9-7-15)

Harney Peak at 7,242 feet is the highest mountain in the Black Hills and the entire state of South Dakota.  Located in the Black Elk Wilderness, it is a very popular hiking destination and can be approached from half a dozen different trailheads.  One of the shortest (about 3.5 miles one way) and most popular routes is on Trail No. 9 from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park.  Lots of people don’t realize how easy it is to add variety to the trip without significantly increasing the distance by making a loop back to Sylvan Lake via trails No. 3 & No. 4 and including an ascent of Little Devil’s Tower along the way like Lupe did on this day.

After 27 days spent on Lupe’s great summer of 2015 Dingo Vacation, Lupe and SPHP finally returned home on the afternoon of 9-4-15.  However, the fun wasn’t set to end quite yet.  It was the Friday before Labor Day weekend, which in 2015 came as late as it possibly can with Labor Day falling on September 7th.  Lupe’s uncle Joe, aunt Andrea and cousin Dusty had already arrived at her Grandma’s house the previous evening.  Aunt Mush and uncle David were due to arrive on Sunday the 6th.  So Lupe got to go with SPHP over to Grandma’s house every evening from the 4th through the 7th to hang out with Dusty and all the gang, which she really enjoyed.

The high point of Labor Day weekend, though, was Labor Day itself.  On Labor Day, uncle Joe and cousin Dusty wanted to go with Lupe and SPHP to climb Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), the always popular high point of South Dakota.  Of course, Lupe and SPHP were both more than willing to oblige.  So a little before 10:00 AM on Labor Day, SPHP parked the G6 near Sylvan Lake Lodge, and everyone piled out.

A short trek led down to the cool shady woods below Sylvan Lake dam.  From there Lupe and the gang followed the lakeside trail up around the N and then E sides of scenic Sylvan Lake.  Shortly before reaching the swimming beach (where dogs aren’t allowed), Dusty was ready for a swim.  Joe tossed a stick into the lake to give her swim a purpose.  Dusty was very pleased to have the opportunity to retrieve the stick.

Dusty takes a dip while retrieving a stick for Joe.
Dusty takes a dip in Sylvan Lake while retrieving a stick for Joe.

Once Dusty was sufficiently cooled off, Lupe’s whole troop continued on past the swimming beach to Trail No. 9.  The trail soon proved to be very busy with Labor Day hikers, the most crowded SPHP has ever seen it.  There were quite a few dogs of various descriptions enjoying the trail, too, so Lupe and Dusty had ample opportunities to stop and sniff with interesting new acquaintances.

Maybe 0.5 mile from Sylvan Lake, there are some rock ledges where Harney first comes into view.  Lupe’s little pack paused here for a short photo op.

Lupe, Joe & Dusty at the rock ledges. Photo looks N.
Lupe, Joe & Dusty at the rock ledges. Photo looks N.
Lupe on the rock ledges with Harney Peak in the background. Photo looks E.
Joe & Dusty with Harney Peak in the background.
Joe & Dusty with Harney Peak in the background.

Trail No. 9 goes all the way to the summit, or at least to the short spur trail that leads to the summit.  Lots of people and dogs were coming and going.  With all the activity, it didn’t seem like very long before Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP were at the spiral stairway just before reaching the lookout tower at the top.

The first few times Lupe had been to Harney Peak, she was scared of the metal stairs, because she could look right through the grate down to the rocks below.  Back then, SPHP had to carry the nervous dingo over the stairs.  Lupe still doesn’t entirely trust these stairs, but with a little encouragement, she navigated them on her own.  If they bothered Dusty, she didn’t show it.

Upon reaching the lookout tower, everyone first went out to the viewing platform next to the tower.  SPHP held Lupe up above the rock wall so she could see the views.  A little later on, after SPHP put her down, she suddenly leaped up onto the rock wall so she could see all by herself.  SPHP made her get down so she couldn’t fall off.   Meanwhile, Joe went and climbed the short steep stairs (virtually a ladder) up to the top of the lookout tower.

Joe and Dusty on the viewing platform next to the Harney Peak lookout tower.
This huge granite outcropping extends out to the W of Harney Peak just a little below the summit.
This huge granite outcropping extends out to the W of Harney Peak just a little below the summit.

Lupe doesn’t like the way the metal grating that forms the floor of the viewing platform feels on her paws, so she was soon done at the lookout tower.  Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP headed down to the tower’s basement and out to a path leading over to the big granite outcropping to the W of the summit.  It was less busy and more peaceful over there, although a bit breezy.  It was a good place to pause for a snack while admiring the views.

Joe & Dusty up on the granite W of Harney's summit.
Joe & Dusty up on the granite W of Harney’s summit.

Lupe and Dusty were quite enthusiastic about sharing the Cliff bar SPHP brought out of the pack, and the Kind bars Joe took out of his pack.  Dusty ate some of Lupe’s Taste of the Wild too, with evident relish.  She even polished off SPHP’s apple core, although that was a step too far for Lupe.  American Dingoes can be picky at times.  Both dogs helped lighten SPHP’s pack by slurping up plenty of water to wash it all down with.

Lupe on the granite W of the Harney Peak lookout tower.
Lupe on the granite W of the Harney Peak lookout tower.
Lupe on the granite looking N from Harney Peak. This photo looks W.
Lupe on the granite looking N from Harney Peak. This photo looks W.
Lupe & Joe
Lupe & Joe
This helicopter buzzed by pretty close while giving tours. Lupe got excited. She loves barking at helicopters and airplanes.
This helicopter buzzed by pretty close while giving tours. Lupe got excited. She loves barking at helicopters and airplanes.

A trip up to Harney Peak on or near Labor Day is becoming a tradition.  On September 2, 2014 (the day after Labor Day), Joe, Dusty, Lupe & SPHP were up here, too.  In 2014, Joe had called his son Matthew from Harney Peak, since it was Matt’s birthday.  This time he called his mother, Audrey, in Wisconsin.

Yes, there is cell phone reception! Joe calls his mother, Audrey in Wisconsin, from the top of South Dakota with Labor Day greetings.
Yes, there is cell phone reception! Joe calls his mother, Audrey, in Wisconsin from the top of South Dakota with Labor Day greetings.
Joe chats with mom in Wisconsin while Dusty listens in to hear if he says anything about dog treats becoming a Labor Day tradition.
Joe chats with mom in Wisconsin while Dusty listens in to hear if he says anything about dog treats on Harney Peak becoming a Labor Day tradition.
The Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil's Tower (R) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
The Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil’s Tower (R) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.

With snacking, sight-seeing and social obligations completed, it was time to head back down from Harney Peak over the spiral stairway, which Lupe again navigated successfully, back to Trail No. 9.  Quite near the bottom of the stairs were some horses that had brought people up the trail.  Lupe was a good Carolina Dog and did not bark at them, although it was tempting.  Dusty paid no attention to the horses.

The undisturbed horses Lupe didn't bark at.
The undisturbed horses Lupe didn’t bark at.

Maybe 10 minutes or so down from Harney’s summit, there is a rock ledge with a great view to the S of Peak 6735.  Lupe graciously posed for a couple of photos from here.

A rather cheerful looking American Dingo with Peak 6735 in the background. Peak 6735 lies SSE of Harney Peak.
A rather cheerful looking American Dingo with Peak 6735 in the background. Peak 6735 lies SSE of Harney Peak.

Lupe with Peak 6735 in the background 9-7-15Rather than head straight back down Trail No. 9 all the way to Sylvan Lake, Joe and Dusty were willing to explore the trails over to the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) and possibly climb Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), which neither of them had done before.  This had the advantage of showing them some new territory while making a loop back to Sylvan Lake.  So Lupe and her troop took Trail No. 3 where it met up with Trail No. 9.

Joe and Dusty on the way to the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.
Joe and Dusty on the way to the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.
Getting closer. Now along Trail No. 4. Little Devils Tower is at the far right.
Getting closer. Now along Trail No. 4. Little Devils Tower is at the far right.

A relatively short trek on Trail No. 3 led to Trail No. 4, which passes to the N of the Cathedral Spires over to a little saddle between the Cathedral Spires and Little Devils Tower.  Trail No. 4 goes over this pass heading S where there are some close up views of the Cathedral Spires.

The Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4 after crossing to the S of the saddle between them and Little Devils Tower.
The Cathedral Spires from Trail No. 4 after crossing to the S of the saddle between them and Little Devils Tower.  Photo looks S.
Cathedral Spires. This photo looks SE from Trail No. 4.
Cathedral Spires. This photo looks SE from Trail No. 4.

It isn’t far from the saddle to a spur trail that goes perhaps 0.25 mile to Little Devils Tower.  Most of the spur trail is an easy hike along a scenic ridge.  There is one relatively short section of annoyingly steep trail with a lot of loose rock on it, but it soon ends at a little saddle between big granite rocks.

A left turn at the saddle reveals a narrow crevasse in the granite.  This crevasse is marked by a painted blue diamond.  Blue and white diamonds mark the rest of the way up to the summit of Little Devils Tower.   This involves some scrambling up the granite, but even relatively small children can do it with a bit of help.  The rough granite provides good footing and there isn’t much exposure most of the way.  Naturally Lupe, Joe, Dusty and SPHP all made it to the top of Little Devils Tower.

Lupe looks SE from Little Devils Tower toward the Cathedral Spires.
Lupe looks SE from Little Devils Tower toward the Cathedral Spires.
Looking NNE back at Harney Peak from Little Devils Tower.
Looking NNE back at Harney Peak from Little Devils Tower.
Looking NW from Little Devils Tower toward Gap Lode Peak and St. Elmo Peak.
Looking NW from Little Devils Tower toward Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.) (most distant large rock outcropping at center of photo) and St. Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.) (smallish looking peak at left center beyond the dark rock hump).

From Little Devils Tower, it was just a matter of following the spur trail back to Trail No. 4 and then continuing SW on down the valley.  Trail No. 4 led to the Little Devils Tower trailhead on Hwy 89 (Needles Highway – the Cathedral Spires are also called the Needles).  The trail continues though, another 0.5 mile or so, and leads back to the picnic ground on Sylvan Lake.  Once back at Sylvan Lake, Dusty was ready for another swim with just a little encouragement from Joe and another stick.Joe & Dusty at Sylvan Lake 9-7-15

Dusty’s 2nd swim of the day and another stick rescued.

While Joe and Dusty were engaged with sticks and water, Lupe and SPHP were up on the rocks taking a few pics of the lake.

Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW. That pretty Carolina Dog looks mighty familiar!
Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW. That pretty Carolina Dog looks mighty familiar!
The swimming beach at Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SE. There used to be a lot more trees and shade near the beach, but sadly pine bark beetles have killed them. Looks like there is another dead one now.
The swimming beach at Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SE. There used to be a lot more trees and shade near the beach, but sadly pine bark beetles have killed them. Looks like there is another dead one now.
Looking S at a large rock off shore from the swimming beach. Sylvan Lake is a popular place to swim in late summer.

By about 4:30 PM, Lupe, Dusty, Joe & SPHP were all back at the G6.  It had been a great day spent together, but was now time to head back to Grandma’s house for a lasagna dinner.  Of course, Lupe had some!  Carolina Dogs like Italian food!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 137 was Lupe’s 6th time up Harney Peak and 4th time up Little Devils Tower.  It was Joe’s 3rd time and Dusty’s 2nd time up Harney, and their 1st time up Little Devils Tower.  For SPHP, we just don’t know anymore.

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