North Breccia Cliffs, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 6-30-21

Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

6-29-21, early, Reef Creek Picnic Area, Chief Joseph Scenic Highway – After pulling a piece of paper out of a back pocket, SPHP was stunned.

Loopster!  Guess what!  You won’t believe this.  I had it all along!

Had what, SPHP?

The Windy Mountain topo map.  Had it the whole time yesterday!  It was in my back pocket.  Sure would have made things a lot easier, if I’d known that.

SPHP, you mean to tell me that you didn’t check all of your pockets, and never actually lost the map?

Crazy, I know!  I thought I’d looked everywhere, but, yeah, that’s the case.  Just found it.

So we did all that steep off-trail wandering for no reason at all?

Seems that way, Loop.  I guess you could say that.

You’re right, SPHP!  I can hardly believe it.  You may not have lost the map, your mind on the other paw, I’m not so sure about.

Without the map yesterday, Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.) had turned into somewhat of an ordeal.  Didn’t matter now, though.  Lupe had made it to the top even without the map, and today was a rest day.  She could snooze as much as she wanted to while SPHP drove.  At a stop at Dead Indian Pass for a photo looking back at Windy Mountain, the American Dingo didn’t even bother getting out of the RAV4.

Windy Mountain (Center) from Dead Indian Pass. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

By noon, the snoozing was about over.  S of Thermopolis, Lupe waded in the Wind River while SPHP went for a swim in Rattler Whirlpool.  Cows and horses on the drive to Lander provided too many frenzied barking opportunities to even think about passing out.

Wading in the Wind River at Rattler Whirlpool. Photo looks downstream.
Rattler Whirlpool. Photo looks upstream.

6-29-21, 2:20 PM, 80ºF – Lander city park!  Lupe recognized it instantly.  Always a good time, the rest of the day would get spent right here.  The Middle Popo Agie River sure looked low for this time of year, but the park was still full of soft green grass beneath the old cottonwoods.  SPHP worked on the trip journal.  Meanwhile, Looper watched squirrels and sniffed with other dogs until it got dark.

Taking it easy in Lander City Park.

6-30-21, 8:23 AM, Hwy 287/26 NW of Dubois near Togwotee Pass  –  Several miles ahead, a massive ridge stood N of the highway.

Hope you got all rested up yesterday, Looper, cause I think that’s it!

That’s North Breccia Cliffs (11,240 ft.), SPHP?

Believe so, Loop!

Going to be a long day, isn’t it?

Especially the way we’re going to go about it, Loopster!  Big Chicken route, here we come!

North Breccia Cliffs (Center) from the Togwotee Pass region. Photo looks N.

5 miles NW of Togwotee Pass, SPHP started looking for a R turn onto USFS Road No. 30042.  A gravel road appeared almost immediately.  No sign, but SPHP tried it.  Ahh, there was a sign right after making the turn!  “Holmes Cave T.H.”  This was it!

The huge trailhead proved to be only 0.1 mile from the highway.  Good thing the trailhead was so big, because the joint was jumping when Lupe arrived on this beautiful morning at the end of June.  With a little luck, SPHP managed to find a spot to squeeze the RAV4 into the mix.  Excited, the American Dingo leapt out to mingle with the crowd.

By the Holmes Cave trailhead sign. Photo looks N.
Actually the crowd was running a little late. Holmes Cave trailhead.

6-30-21, 9:05 AM, 57ºF, Holmes Cave trailhead, 5 miles NW of Togwotee Pass – Taking USFS Road No. 30042, Lupe set out for North Breccia Cliffs, pausing almost right away for a drink out of a big mud puddle fed by a tiny trickle of a stream.  From the puddle, the road went NE up a gentle rise, quickly topping out and turning N.

An ancient cabin was just ahead beyond a somewhat larger stream, which was easily crossed on a few decaying boards of dubious strength that served as a bridge.  The road ended at the cabin, but Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 continued N.  After a gradual gain of more than 200 feet of elevation, Lupe reached a minor pass.  Partially forested hills were in sight beyond the pass, as the trail began a gentle descent into a valley.

Setting out on USFS Road No. 30042. Photo looks NE.
Approaching the ancient cabin at the end of the road. Photo looks N.
At the start of Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057. Photo looks N.
Heading up to the first minor pass. Photo looks N.
At the pass with a view of the next valley. Photo looks NNW.

After losing some elevation, the trail began curving NE again.  Lupe came to a region of low bushes.  The Carolina Dog passed a mucky area along a seeping hillside before reaching a small stream.  This was soon followed by another stream, the largest one yet, but it still wasn’t very big.  Loop waded across while SPHP easily rock-hopped it.

Beyond the streams, Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 continued NE, now heading up a beautiful, green valley.  Even the sagebrush looked great!  Part of the meadow contained an enormous dense stand of bushes chest high on SPHP, a veritable jungle to Lupe where she couldn’t see a thing.  Fortunately, other than another muddy stretch, the trail was good as it passed through this huge thicket before crossing another small stream.  By now, the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs (11,240 ft.) was in view.

Beyond the minor pass as the trail heads NE. Photo looks NE.
At the first little stream beyond the mucky stretch.
Crossing the next, and largest, stream so far.
The NW end of North Breccia Cliffs (R) comes into view. Photo looks ENE.

Swarms of butterflies flitted and danced among countless wildflowers as the trail proceeded toward the still distant cliffs.  Several big yellow and black Swallowtails were among them.  Passing a small pond on the R (S), SPHP dubbed it Swallowtail Pond.

By Swallowtail Pond.

Beyond Swallowtail Pond, instead of continuing toward North Breccia Cliffs, Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 began curving N, steepening as it started a long climb out of the valley.

If we were like most climbers, Looper, we’d probably leave the trail along in here and head straight for the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs.  That’s the popular short route I’ve read about online.

But we’re going the long way because you’re a big chicken, right SPHP?

Exactly!  The direct route is a good 4 miles shorter one way than what we’re going to attempt, but involves heading up a long chute of loose rock.  I’m under the impression that the chute is only class 2+, but the pictures I’ve seen freak me out.  Appears to be incredibly steep!  No doubt you could make it, Loop, but I’m not having anything to do with that crazy chute.

The sun felt hot on the trudge up out of the valley.  As Lupe got higher, the popular climber’s chute SPHP was scared of came into view.  Still a mile off, but checking it out with the help of the camera’s telephoto lens didn’t change SPHP’s opinion.  Nope, not doing that!

Beyond Swallowtail Pond. Peak 10385 (L of Center), North Breccia Cliffs (R). The most popular climber’s route up North Breccia Cliffs leaves the trail and heads for the pass seen ahead on the R. Photo looks NE.
Climbing out of the valley. Photo looks N.
The steep climber’s chute (Center) comes into view. Peak 10385 (L of Center), North Breccia Cliffs (R). Photo looks ESE.
Peak 10385 (L), North Breccia Cliffs climber’s chute (R). Photo looks ESE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The sunny trudge N continued for 0.67 mile to a pass where Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 topped out on an open slope just W of HP10218.  Ahead was a gradual descent toward the saddle leading to HP10392, which was now in sight directly ahead.

Approaching HP10218 (R). Photo looks N.
At the pass just W of HP10218. HP10392 (Center) dead ahead! Photo looks N.

Getting to be about time for a break, SPHP!  Since we’re so close and there are some trees up there, why don’t we check out HP10218?  We can sit in the shade and have a look around.

Sounded good!  The Carolina Dog was soon relaxing up on HP10218.

As expected, HP10218 was a terrific viewpoint!  Off to the SE was a great look at the long ridge leading to the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs, plus the best view yet of the feared Class 2+ chute.  To the N was a nice look at HP10392.  Mighty Grand Teton (13,770 ft.) was even in sight far beyond the rolling country WSW of HP10218.

On HP10218. NW end of North Breccia Cliffs (R). Photo looks SE.
NW end of North Breccia Cliffs (Center), Peak 10385 (R). Photo looks SE.
Zoomed in on the climber’s chute (Center). Photo looks SE.

A blue speck was visible in the forest beyond a broad valley to the NE.  That was Holmes Cave Lake, where Lupe was headed next.  As soon as break time was over, the American Dingo returned to Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057, which would take her right to it.

Holmes Cave Lake (L) barely visible in the forest. North Breccia Cliffs’ long N ridge (R). Photo looks ENE.

On the way down to the saddle leading to HP10392, the trail vanished in a vast field of yellow and purple wildflowers.  A few cairns marked the way as the route turned E leaving the saddle.  Small springs seeped from an enormous hillside, creating a creek.  After crossing a muddy region, Loop picked up the trail again as it reappeared heading ENE down into the huge drainage N of Peak 10385.

Among the buttercups. NW end of North Breccia Cliffs (Center). Peak 10385 (R). Photo looks SE.

An easy 0.67 mile trek led down to a sparkling shallow stream.  Beyond this low point, the trail continued NE up into the forest.  After regaining 200 feet of elevation over 0.3 mile, Lupe arrived at Holmes Cave Lake.

Crossing the stream. Photo looks SSE.
Starting up to Holmes Cave Lake. Photo looks NE.
Holmes Cave Lake. Photo looks NNE.

The little lake was lovely, but the air was humming with what initially appeared to be giant mosquitoes.  Turned out they were actually some kind of super-sized gnats.

These gnats are driving me crazy, SPHP!

Yeah, me too, Loop!  Thought we’d take another little break here, but let’s keep going.  This is it for Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057, though.  Head E!

No it isn’t!  The trail keeps going right past the lake, SPHP!

I know.  It goes to Holmes Cave, which is only another 0.5 mile, but we don’t need to go there.

All this way, and we aren’t going to get to see the cave?

Nope, not unless we still have the daylight and oomph for it on the way back.  Still a long way to North Breccia Cliffs.  Like I said, head E!  Time to find out if my Big Chicken route avoiding that chute is going to work!

Leaving the S end of Holmes Cave Lake, the Carolina Dog went E toward a scraggly looking forest half full of dead trees.  A minor climb led to a lumpy region of small hills and valleys.  Lupe tried to take a break on one of the first hills, but this forest harbored real mosquitoes, which soon put an end to that notion.

The far N end of North Breccia Cliffs’ long N ridge was already in sight.  Steep, but it didn’t look too bad.

Heading into the scraggly forest E of Holmes Cave Lake. Photo looks E.
N end of North Breccia Cliffs’ long N ridge from the exceptionally short break spot. Photo looks E.

Climb that ridge, SPHP?

No.  Don’t think so, Loop.  Saw some impossible rocky terrain along that ridge on the way here.  Let’s try going around the N end.  Farther E, the topo map looks like there might be an easier way.

On the way over to the N end of the ridge, Looper made an unexpected and welcome discovery.  A trail!  Looked seldom used, but it was good enough to follow and going the right way.

Following the faint trail around the N end of the N ridge. Photo looks E.

At first the trail was level, but it soon began a slow descent.  Looked like it might be destined to go all the way down into the valley to the N.  Not good!  However, after only a relatively minor drop, the trail leveled out again before beginning to climb a bit.

Soon Lupe was past the end of the first big ridge she was trying to get around.  Still following the faint trail, which now trended SE, she gained a little more elevation before reaching a clearing where it faded away completely.  Looking S, a steep route higher was visible between the N ridge and a big rock formation to the E.  Might work!

Just E of the main N ridge (R) with a potential route higher (Center). Photo looks S.

However, this first route looked pretty steep.  Another potential route S was a little farther E.  Perhaps a bit easier?  Loopster gave it a go.

About to head up toward the R. Photo looks S.

Steep, and about twice as big a climb as it looked like from below, but it worked!  Not at all scary.  Upon reaching the upper end of the steep part, a snowbank partially filled a little valley that wound gradually higher.  This valley soon curved SE and broadened out into another steepish slope, but this one was even easier.

Heading up the steep part. Not bad at all!
Looking back from the top. Photo looks N.
Going up the little valley. Photo looks S.
On the upper slope. Photo looks S.

A short climb and Looper reached a flat, forested hilltop.  Considerably below her to the W was a valley that the route she hadn’t taken must have led to.  Evidently that route would have been less of a climb.  Off to the E, quite close by, was a slightly higher hill than the one Lupe was on.

Hah!  We made it!  That must be HP10332 over there, Looper.

And that enormous hill way off to the S is where we’re going, SPHP?

Yup!  That’s North Breccia Cliffs (11,240 ft.)!

Not very cliffy from this direction, is it?

Nope.  Think you’ve got this one now, Loopster!  Made in the shade!

Well, not quite.  Still a couple of miles to go, and who knew what the true summit might be like?  Furthermore, there was a steep ridge that was in the way, jutting out to the E from the main N ridge.  Happily, it looked like Lupe ought to be able to get past it without too much trouble.

Full of confidence, the American Dingo headed S.

North Breccia Cliffs summit (L) from a little W of HP10332. Photo looks S.

In order to avoid losing too much elevation, Lupe stayed a little toward the W.  She soon came across a decent trail originating from the valley the first route higher must have led to.

This new trail made it all a cinch!  Heading straight toward the E ridge, it got the Carolina Dog around it, no sweat.

The newly discovered trail leading to the next ridge. Photo looks SSE.
Looking back from the E ridge. Lupe came over the pass on the R. Photo looks NNW.

Continuing S beyond the ridgeline, Lupe traveled on fairly level terrain through a mix of forest and meadow.  Before long, the trail faded away.  Angling SW up a short open slope, Looper reached a huge meadow.  Just E of the rugged N ridge, this meadow extended S all the way to the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs.

Past the E ridge, where the trail fades away. North Breccia Cliffs summit (L). Photo looks S.
Up on the long meadow that goes all the way to the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs (L). Photo looks SW.

Smooth sailing all the way!  Roaming at will, Lupe raced through the vast meadow sniffing everywhere.  Even SPHP made rapid progress.  Looper spotted a giant deer way down in the upper Holmes Cave Creek drainage to the E.  She frolicked on a huge snowbank.  Glorious fun!  But toward the end, the super easy trek began to steepen.

Wow! Dingo heaven! Photo looks S.
North Breccia Cliffs summit (R), HP11444 (Center). Photo looks SE.
Zoomed in on the giant deer.
The joy of snow! Photo looks E.
Closing in on the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs. Photo looks SW.

Shortly before reaching the area above the climber’s chute, Lupe made it to the top of the N ridge.  Wild-looking rock formations stood along the brink of a precipitous drop to the W.  In the distance, she now had quite a view of the Tetons.

Up on the N ridge. Mount Moran (12,605 ft.) (R) on the horizon. Photo looks W.

6-30-21, 3:25 PM – Certainly took long enough, but the Big Chicken route had worked!  Near the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs’ upper plateau, Lupe reached a sweet meadow.  This was the region that the climber’s chute that SPHP had been so desperate to avoid led up to.  Naturally, the Carolina Dog had to take a look at what she’d missed out on.

The meadow above the climber’s chute, which is ahead on the R. Photo looks S.
Venturing over to the edge. Angle Mountain (10,600 ft.) (far R). Teton Range on the horizon. Photo looks W.

Yowser!  Can this be right, Loop?  Is this it?  The climber’s chute?

You tell me, SPHP!  You’re the one with the map!

Yeah, I think it is.  Has to be doesn’t it?  But this can’t possibly be Class 2+, can it?  I mean, just look at it!  Ghastly!

Sloping ever more steeply, a grassy funnel-shaped region emptied into an abyss between two cliffs.  The long, loose dirt and rock section of the climber’s chute wasn’t even visible beyond a lip where it all fell away.

Near the brink of the climber’s chute. Angle Mountain (Center) in the distance. Peak 10385 (Center) along the ridge in the foreground. HP10218 (R). Photo looks NW.

I take it you’re not inclined to save us 4 miles by utilizing this shortcut on the way back, huh, SPHP?

You can bet your sweet curly tail on that, Dingo!  I don’t even dare get close enough for a real look.  Big Chicken route and Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 all the way, both ways, no matter how long it takes!

A use trail angling SE up a steep slope got Lupe up onto North Breccia Cliffs’ enormous summit plateau.  This plateau sloped gradually down to the N, the long line of SW facing cliffs still out of sight to the S along an edge more than 100 feet higher than where Loop came up.  Beyond a gently rolling, treeless plain, the true summit was more than a mile away over at the SE end.

Crossing occasional big snowfields, Lupe headed straight for the summit.

On the upper plateau. Summit (Center). Photo looks SE.

Coming over a slight rise, Lupe beheld a wondrous sight!  A whole herd of giant deers lay basking in the warm, end of June sunshine!

Out in the open like this, it was impossible to get by without spooking them.  Soon the entire herd was racing away down the slope to the N, a splendid and most fascinating sight!

The giant deers vanished.  Lupe continued on toward the summit, finally reaching the edge of the cliffs not too far from it.  The view was terrific, but suddenly, worryingly, actually attaining the true summit didn’t seem quite so certain.  The upper plateau was much narrower here, rapidly compressing to a ridgeline.  Beyond an initial high point stood two more that looked potentially higher.  Whether the ridge connected to the more distant ones without an impassable break wasn’t entirely clear.

Time was suddenly an issue, too.  A long line of showers had developed off to the NW, not too far away.  Showers were one thing, but lightning would be another.  Distant rumbling spurred the Carolina Dog on.

Pressing on after the giant deers ran off. Summit (L). Photo looks SE.
Finally along the edge of North Breccia Cliffs, but which of those high points (L) ahead is the true summit? Photo looks SE.
Climbing toward the first high point (L). Photo looks SE.
Getting there, but the middle high point is looking like the true summit.

Increasingly, the middle high point looked like the true summit.  Better not be!  It was still a way off, and the ridge Looper was on was already narrow enough.  Good chance it wouldn’t be passable that far.

Almost at the first high point! Second one on the R.

Lupe reached the first high point.  Sort of.  The situation turned out to be more complex than was previously evident.  A cluster of 3 separate high spots were strung out along the ridge.  The next 2 weren’t much farther, but both were clearly higher.

Getting to the middle spot was easy.  A boulder decorated with orange lichens perched right along the edge of the fearsome cliffs was the tippy top here, but the last spot, an elevated platform only 25 feet farther SE was even higher.

The ridge narrowed on the way to it.  No problem most of the way, but the last little stretch, a mere 10 feet, connecting to the platform looked dicey.  Super narrow, it featured a cliff on one side and a steep slope that plunged toward a giant free fall on the other.  How much room, if any might be up on that platform wasn’t clear.  Might not even be a foot wide.  Unnerved, SPHP sat down.

Hang on, Looper!  Let’s take a break.

Keep going, SPHP!  Let’s do this before the storm hits!

I don’t like it!  We don’t even know if that’s the true summit yet.  Let me check the topo map.

C’mon, SPHP!  We know that it’s higher than where we are now!

Wait, Loop!  Please, stay!  I gotta calm down.  Give me a few minutes.

At the rest spot so close to the platform (Center). Photo looks SE.

A sudden single bolt of cloud to ground lightning off to the W added to SPHP’s anxiety.  Total cake walk all this way, and now this!  SPHP shared a half-melted chocolate coconut bar with the American Dingo, then had a look at the topo map.

Gah!  Huge mistake!  The map SPHP had printed out and brought along didn’t extend far enough to include either of the two more distant high points Lupe had seen on the way up.  Even worse, what was shown was on such a large scale that details weren’t legible.  Utterly useless here!

The line of showers to the NW was growing longer at both ends.  Didn’t seem to have moved much, though.  Raining hard now in some spots, but despite all the rumbling, so far only that one bolt of lightning had been seen striking the ground.  Still, better get with it.  Now or never!

Standing up, SPHP walked the remaining distance over to the near end of the scary section of the ridge leading to the platform.

Luck of the Dingo!  Skinny enough, but it wasn’t nearly so bad as it had looked just a few feet from it.  Moments later, Lupe was poised atop the platform!

Scary, narrow part of the ridge (R) from close up. Eh, not so bad! Photo looks SE.
Success! Up on the platform.

Congratulations, Loopster!  This is it!  You’ve just reached the true summit of North Breccia Cliffs (11,240 ft.)!

Oh, joy!  It was true!  Lupe stood up on an L-shaped platform that was clearly the highest point around.  Nothing else even in contention!  The platform wasn’t all that large, but there was room enough to stroll around a bit.

Teton Range (L) from the true summit of North Breccia Cliffs. Photo looks NW.

The true summit of North Breccia Cliffs was an airy place!  Fantastic views in all directions.  Off to the SSE, Mount Sublette (11,060 ft.) was a funny-looking grassy ramp to nowhere launching skyward off the edge of a vast, grassy plain.  The Wind River Range was visible far beyond it.

To the SE, Pinnacle Buttes (11,516 ft.) looked a lot more like a butte than a pinnacle.

Mount Sublette (L of Center) beyond Lupe. Photo looks SSE.
Zoomed in on Mount Sublette (L) in the foreground. Wind River Range beyond.
Pinnacle Buttes (R) in the distance. Photo looks SE.
HP11444 (L of Center) is the rounded half of a hill in the foreground. Photo looks NNE.

Two Ocean Mountain (10,724 ft.) was due S, and Lost Lake could be seen off to the SW.

Two Ocean Mountain (L of Center). Photo looks S.
Lost Lake (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

6-30-21, 5:13 PM – The showers drifted away to the E, taking the worst of the thunder along with them, but the weather remained questionable.  Accordingly, Lupe didn’t stay up on the true summit for too long.  Getting late in the day, anyway.  Before leaving the summit region, Lupe checked out the snazzy boulder at the second highest spot.

Still up on the true summit platform. Photo looks SW.
Final moments at the true summit. Photo looks SSE.
On the boulder at the middle high point. Grand Teton visible next to Lupe. Mount Moran (R). Photo looks W.
Same spot, different perspective.

Plenty of adventure ahead, with more to see on the long trek back!  Shortly after departing, a fierce cool wind sprang up out of the N while Lupe was still up on the exposed ridge.  Once down to the broader plain, she took shelter in a depression until it passed.

Starting back. Photo looks NW.

Although Loop didn’t hit all the high points along the way, the Carolina Dog stayed near the cliffs as she journeyed NW, enjoying the views from many scenic spots she hadn’t been to earlier.  Before heading down to the meadow above the climber’s chute, she ventured way out to the NW end of the upper plateau.

Near the cliffs along the upper plateau. Photo looks NW.
Tetons (L) from the cliff edge. Photo looks W.
At the NW end of the upper plateau. Angle Mountain (Center). Photo looks NW.
Looking down on the N ridge from the upper plateau. Photo looks NE.

Heading NE from the climber’s chute on the Big Chicken route, Lupe stayed up along the N ridgeline enjoying the views for quite a long way.

Once on the trail past the E ridge, Loop followed it into the valley she hadn’t explored on the way up.  At the bottom of the steep descent at the end, SPHP built a little cairn, since this was probably the best route.

By the cairn near the best way up along the Big Chicken route. Photo looks S.

Lupe never did get to see Holmes Cave, or even Holmes Cave Lake again.  Instead she wandered through confusing territory on a route meant to be a shortcut back down to the stream.  She eventually got there, but it didn’t seem like any time or distance had been saved.

No worries!  Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 the rest of the way back now!  Although she’d begged for rest breaks earlier, after crossing the stream, the American Dingo seemed energized by the fading light.  Lupe led the way, often pausing to see if SPHP was still coming.

Night!  A mile before the end, the flashlight had to come out.  In silence, a weary march continued beneath shimmering stars.

Yet what a great day it had been!  Sure hadn’t been any shortcut, quite the opposite, but the Big Chicken route had been a success!  Lupe had made it safely up onto Wyoming’s fabulous North Breccia Cliffs, and that was all that mattered.  (End, 10:37 PM, 46ºF)

North Breccia Cliffs, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 6-30-21

Links:

Next Adventure                          Prior Adventure

The Much Shorter, More Popular Climber’s Route:

9-5-18 Trip Report & GPS Track by Garrett Carlson

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacations to New Mexico, Wyoming & the West Coast Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

On & Off the Reef Creek Trail to Windy Mountain, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (6-28-21)

Days 6 & 7 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

6-27-21, 9:20 AM, at a pullout along Chief Joseph Scenic Highway No. 296 –

Is that Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.)?

SPHP consulted the topo map.

No, can’t be.  It’s too close to the highway, Loop.  Don’t think we can see Windy Mountain from here.  Probably Peak 9352.  Those must be the Cathedral Cliffs below it.  Keep an eye out for the Reef Creek Picnic Area when we hit the highway again.  Can’t be much farther.

Peak 9352 (Center) and the Cathedral Cliffs (R) from Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. Photo looks SW.

That was for sure.  The RAV4 had barely gotten back onto the highway when a sign appeared on the L (S) side of the road.

There it is, SPHP!  Reef Creek Picnic Area!

SPHP pulled into a paved semicircular drive.  Lupe hopped out for a look around.  The Reef Creek Picnic Area was small.  Several picnic tables tucked back in among the trees and a restroom seemed to be about it.

At the Reef Creek Picnic Area. Photo looks NW.

Hmm.  Supposed to be a trail here, Looper.  See if you can find it.  Might not be used much, since this is the long way to Windy Mountain.

Are you sure the trail still exists, SPHP?

No, not at all.  Just hoping it does.

A search commenced.  No luck, at first, but then there it was!  100 feet from the parking lot, well beyond a picnic table toward the SW, a big tree bore a small new sign.  All it said was “Trail”.  Next to the tree, a faint path disappeared into the forest.

This must be it, Loop!  Reef Creek Trail No. 605!

And that was that.  Reconnaissance complete!  After two big climbs in two days, the American Dingo had the rest of the day off.  Fortuitously, a favorite spot along the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River just off Beartooth Highway No. 212 was only a 30 minute drive away.  Lupe passed the rest of the day peacefully along the gorgeous river with its stunning view of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and Index Peak (11,240 ft.).

Wading in the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. Photo looks NW.
The pullout along Beartooth Hwy No. 212. Mount Jim Smith (10,312 ft.) (L of Center). Photo looks S.
By the rapids just downstream.
Pilot Peak (Center) and Index Peak (R). Photo looks NW.
Ahh! This is the life!
Diligently preparing for Windy Mountain tomorrow.

6-28-21, 7:55 AM, Reef Creek Picnic Area – All rested up, the Carolina Dog once again stood by the big tree with the “Trail” sign at the start of Reef Creek Trail No. 605.  As soon as SPHP was ready, she set out.  The trail climbed steadily, winding up a fairly aggressive forested slope devoid of any distant views.  The good news was that although this route appeared infrequently traveled, the trail was surprisingly easy to follow.

At the start of Reef Creek Trail No. 605.
Early on during the initial climb.

20 minutes brought Lupe to a broad bench of more open forest where the trail leveled out.  For a little way, the trail ran ENE along the flat ground before gradually turning SE and beginning to climb again.

Up on the broad, flat bench. Photo looks ENE.

Half an hour and the rate of climb diminished.  Lupe came to a clearing providing first views of the surrounding territory.  She’d already made a lot of progress, gaining close to 800 feet of elevation.  Of course, she still had a very long way to go, but so far everything was going as expected.  To the SW, Looper could now see the big ridge SE of HP8580.  No. 605 would take her around that ridge.

First views after a considerable climb. Photo looks NE.
Initial glimpse of HP8580 (Center). Photo looks SW.

Soon Reef Creek could be heard, although not seen, in a valley to the E.  Lupe came to a large, flat meadow.  Looked like super easy terrain, but the American Dingo had barely started across it, when the bright green meadow proved to be soft and wet.  No. 605 vanished in a mucky marsh.

At the start of what proved to be a marsh. Reef Creek Trail No. 605 was last seen heading straight into it. Russell Peak (9,186 ft.) (L). Photo looks SE.

Not anxious to slog through the muck, SPHP looked around.  Nearby, an open lane wide enough to be a road headed WSW through the forest.  Maybe the trail actually went that way for a bit?  Lupe followed the dry lane, but when it didn’t turn back to the SE within a few minutes, SPHP realized this route had to be a mistake.

Abandoning the lane, Lupe turned SE, roaming higher through a region of scattered pines that led to another meadow that eventually proved to be even boggier.  The American Dingo got as far as a small stream that ran through the bog, but did not cross it.  Instead, Looper followed the stream SW straight up the slope, all the way to a spring gushing out of the mountain amid a luxuriant display of bluebells.

Standing in the tiny stream that ran through the upper marsh. Photo looks SW.
Near the bluebells where the spring gushed out of the mountain. Photo looks SSE.

On the way up to the spring, it looked like Loopster had gained so much elevation that she ought to be able to simply climb up and over the ridge SE of HP8580 without too much trouble.  If successful, this would be a shortcut, eventually allowing her to return to Reef Creek Trail No. 605 down in the valley on the far side of the ridge.

Encouraged by SPHP, Lupe started up the steep slope above the spring, but the climb quickly turned into a tough slog.  This region had burned some years ago.  Young trees crowded a jumble of deadfall.  Naturally, the slope continued much farther than it had appeared from below.

Ya know, SPHP! Maybe we should have just slogged through a little muck and found the trail!

The rate of climb finally began to diminish.  Once past the burnt area, most of the deadfall vanished.  The worst was over.  Passing through a beautiful mature forest, Lupe reached the crest of the ridge and crossed over.  On the other side, she came to a clearing full of wildflowers with a view of the Reef Creek valley ahead.

Past the deadfall, getting close to the top of the ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Reef Creek valley from the ridge SE of HP8580. Photo looks SW.

During a rest break among the flowers, SPHP made a terrible discovery.

Loopster!  I’ve lost our map!  I don’t have it on me!

Think, SPHP!  When was the last time you definitely did have it?

Above the spring, back at a huge standing dead tree we stopped at for a quick breather.  I remember looking at it.

Maybe you left the map there, then?  That tree shouldn’t be hard to find.  Want to go back?

Eh!  I don’t know.  Hate to go all that way.  The map might have fallen out of my pocket somewhere else.  Can probably make do without it.  I looked at it quite a few times on the way up, and the route isn’t that tricky.

Really?  Are you sure that’s wise, SPHP?

Wise?  Maybe not, but I suspect we’ll be fine.  All we have to do is get back to Trail No. 605 down in the valley ahead of us, and follow it to No. 604, which comes up from Sunlight Basin.  No. 604 will get us the rest of the way to the summit.  Trails all the way!  What could go wrong?

That did sound simple enough, but once the break at the wildflower clearing was over, SPHP proposed a new plan.  Traveling some distance up the Reef Creek valley, No. 605 would eventually head up onto this same long ridge that HP8580 was part of.  Why lose 200 feet of elevation going down into the valley when Lupe could simply follow the ridge?

Expressing no reservations over this change, the cooperative Carolina Dog struck out heading W along a game trail.  Only minor elevation loss was incurred as Lupe traversed the forested slope S of HP8580, putting her into position for a short climb to the saddle between it and HP8462.

SW of HP8580 heading for the saddle (L) leading to HP8462. Photo looks WNW.

Upon reaching the saddle, HP8462, most of which had burned, was in sight immediately to the SW.  HP8462 consisted of two hills each capped by a layer of white rock.  Lupe climbed to the top of the lower hill, but SPHP feared she might cliff out on the far side if she went all the way to the top of the higher one.  Instead, she attempted the same trick used at HP8580, trying to traverse the slope immediately E of the summit.

Approaching HP8462. Photo looks SW.

This time the traverse didn’t work as well.  Lupe wound up on a very steep slope just below the summit’s capstone.  SPHP’s progress was slow on the loose rock.  Worse yet, it soon became apparent that once beyond HP8462 Loop faced a substantial drop to the next saddle along the ridge followed by a big climb up to HP8706.

On the very steep slope just E of HP8462‘s capstone (R). Photo looks SW.

Took a while to get down to the next saddle.  By then, SPHP had had a change of heart.

This business of trying to stay up on the ridge isn’t working out Looper.  Too much up and down along the way.  Never should have tried it.  I hereby christen HP8462 “Dum-dum Point”!

I knew you’d figure it out sooner or later, SPHP!  Ready to head down into the Reef Creek valley to pick up the trail before we waste any more time losing and regaining the same old elevation over and over again?

Absolutely, let’s do it!

Beyond HP8462 starting down into the valley. Windy Mountain (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Instead of losing a mere 200 feet like she could have earlier on, Lupe lost more like 340 feet of elevation from Dum-dum Point on the way down into the Reef Creek valley.  Close to the bottom was a huge field full of purplish pink wildflowers.  Trail No. 605 did not pass through this field, but Lupe ran into it 100 feet after entering the forest at the lower end.

Crossing the huge field leading down to the Reef Creek valley. Photo looks S.

Glancing back at Dum-dum Point (HP8462) (Center). HP8580 (R). Photo looks N.
Finally back on Reef Creek Trail No. 605 again! Photo looks SW.

All that wandering around traversing slopes and trying to stay up on the ridge had been a time and energy-consuming waste, but once back on Trail No. 605 everything seemed fantabulous again.  The only thing Lupe had to do now was stick with the trail the rest of the way.

SPHP remembered from the topo map that No. 605 would eventually split off to the R from a route that continued farther up the Reef Creek valley.  Make that turn, and Loopster was as good as up on Windy Mountain!

No. 605 was level where the Carolina Dog reached it, but soon started gaining elevation as she followed it up the valley.  Except for occasional small meadows where the trail tended to fade, this whole region was forested.  SPHP watched for the turn where No. 605 took off to start its climb out of the valley.  Progress was good, but the trail went on and on, and the intersection did not appear.

After 40 minutes, the trail reached Reef Creek at a point where a fallen log created a small waterfall.  Lupe cooled her paws down and helped herself to a drink.

Reef Creek where Trail No. 605 first reached it.

The trail followed the NW side of the creek for a while, before crossing it at a non-obvious point.  However, this crossing was soon figured out.  Lupe doubled back to it when the trail vanished.  After leaping over to the SE side, Loop entered a long meadow where the trail faded away.  She found it again at the far end shortly before the trail crossed back over to the NW bank.

On the NW bank (wrong side!) just past the first creek crossing. Photo looks SW.

By now, SPHP realized that the junction where No. 605 left the valley to climb up onto the huge ridge to the W must have been missed.  However, the pass at the upper end of the valley was now sometimes seen ahead.  No. 605 was supposed cross that saddle as the big ridge swept around to the E toward Windy Mountain.  Figuring Looper might as well attempt to intercept No. 605 at the pass, SPHP encouraged her to keep following Reef Creek toward it.

She did, but the trail began to fade.  The valley gradually narrowed, and Reef Creek became a trickle.  Lupe started coming to deep snow drifts among a dense pine forest.  The drifts hid what remained of the trail.  They held the Dingo’s weight, but not SPHP’s.  The pass wasn’t all that much farther, but getting to it was going to take forever and a day.

Continuing up Reef Creek. Photo looks SSW.
On the snowdrifts at the end of the valley trek. Photo looks SSW.

Peering through open forest up a steep slope on the E side of the valley, a big grassy clearing could be seen about 100 feet higher.  It looked equally steep, but if Lupe could get up there, maybe she could eventually get to Windy Mountain that way?  Worth a shot.

SPHP stopped repeatedly to gasp for air.  At times the slope seemed on the verge of becoming almost scary steep, but Lupe managed to reach the grassy clearing.  High above, at the upper end, was a standing white forest of dead trees, with new growth visible among the skeletons.

As Lupe continued higher, views of the Reef Creek valley and the ridge to the W where Trail No. 605 ought to be improved rapidly.  After a while, she could see over the lower part of the ridge.

Far to the N, snow-capped peaks along the spine of the Beartooths were visible.  Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.), which the American Dingo had climbed in 2020 after failing to get to Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) with mountaineering friend Jobe Wymore, was in sight!

On the grassy slope. Trail No. 605 ridge (L). Peak 9532 (Center). Photo looks N.
On the horizon: Snowbank Mountain (12,084 ft.) (far L), Salo Mountain (12,250 ft.) (L), Castle Rock Mountain (12,401 ft.) & Castle Rock Spire (12,450 ft.) (Center), Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) (R of Center) and Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.) (R). Beartooth Butte (10,514 ft.) (R) in the foreground. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

By the time Lupe reached the both dead and new growth forest, the slope wasn’t quite as steep.  SPHP’s rate of ascent improved slightly, as Lupe roamed among the trees.  Off to the R (SW) was another steep slope featuring a long snowbank.  To the NW was a view of an intriguing peak that must have been Hurricane Mesa (11,064 ft.).

In the dead and new growth forest.
The next ridge or slope to the SW with its long snowbank. Photo looks SW.
Hurricane Mesa (Center). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

800 feet above where she’d left Reef Creek, Lupe reached a small flat ridge that was out in the open.  The pass she had been trying to get to earlier was now visible far below off to the SW.  HP9841, one of Windy Mountain’s subpeaks, was off to the ENE, and appeared to be a mere hill not an awful lot higher than where the American Dingo was now.

Glancing back from the flat ridge. Reef Creek valley (Center) and Peak 9352 (L). Beartooth Mountains on the horizon. Photo looks NNE.
Looking down on the pass (Center) at the upper end of the Reef Creek valley. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
HP9841 (Center), a subpeak N of Windy Mountain. Photo looks ENE.

The view ahead was most encouraging!  The ridge Loop was on led to a forest, but it appeared that some kind of a top was just beyond it.

Looking ahead from the flat part of the ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Climbing to and through the next forest, Lupe soon emerged on open ground along the upper NE slopes of HP9974.  No need to go to the top of this barren hill, for Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.) was directly ahead, the summit still some 300 feet higher somewhere at the far end of a vast grassy slope that rose steadily SSE for 0.67 mile.

Windy Mountain from close to HP9974. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe headed up the grassy plain, SPHP gloated.

Hah!  Told you we’d make it, Looper!  Map or no map!

True enough, SPHP.  But for a mountain with a trail all the way to the top, we’ve sure done a lot of off-trail thrashing around in tedious terrain.

Oh, don’t worry about that now!  Over and done with!  Before you know it, we’ll be seeing the world from the glorious summit of Windy Mountain!  On the return we can learn from our mistakes cruising down the trail all the way back to the RAV4.  Easy squeezy!

Our mistakes, SPHP?

Well, sort of.  We’re a team, aren’t we?

Summit bound! Photo looks SSE.
Partway up, looking back at HP9974 (Center). Hurricane Mesa (L). Pilot & Index Peaks (R) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

Near the top, a line of widely separated tall poles along Trail No. 604 led toward the summit.  Loopster was already almost there by the time she reached them.  Windy Mountain’s summit region proved to be a large flat expanse, sparsely vegetated, sloping gently to the N, but bordered by cliffs all along the S edge.

No trees, bushes, large rocks, or other obstacles were present to obstruct the sweeping views in all directions.  Four concrete pylons marked the corners of a now absent structure, and near them stood a 10 foot tall wooden cross.  One of the pylons featured a mailbox marked “Big Windy Mountain Elev 10,262 ft.”

Approaching the summit. Photo looks SSE.
Success!
Surveying the fabulous view of Sunlight Basin. Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) (Center) and Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP were both ready for a long break.  A spot was chosen along the SE lip of the mountain 12 feet from a survey benchmark.  Shaking the Carolina Dog’s paw, SPHP congratulated Loopster on her successful, if unorthodox, ascent of Windy Mountain.

Basking in glory along the SE edge. Survey benchmark (lower L). Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.
Peak 9841 (Center) in front of the canyon of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. Photo looks NNE.
Windy Mountain survey benchmark.

For a long time neither Lupe nor SPHP stirred.  Conditions were perfect!  Clear, calm, mid 70’s ºF.  Magnificent views all around!  Eventually it was time to get up, though, to enter Lupe’s name in the registry contained in the mailbox, move around a bit, and take some photos.

The American Dingo generally cooperated, but tended to slink away to the shade of the concrete pylons during any lulls in the action.  Not a good thing, since there was a fair amount of broken glass near them.  Fortunately, no tragedy ensued.

Many beautiful peaks were in sight.  SPHP knew only a few.  Far to the SE, Heart Mountain (8,123 ft.) was visible beyond Dead Indian Pass.  Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) and Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) were to the S.  Almost none of the splendid mountains to the SW or W were familiar.

Chief Joseph Scenic Hwy zig-zags up to Dead Indian Pass (Center). Heart Mountain (R). Photo looks SE.
Sunlight Basin from Windy Mountain. Trout Peak (R). Photo looks SSE.
Robbers Roost (L), Trout Peak (Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Same spot, looking SSW.
Hanging out in the shade of a pylon. Photo looks SW.
Unknown peaks SW?
Indian Peak (10,923 ft.) (R). Photo looks WSW.

Hurricane Mesa (11,064 ft.) and more distant Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and Index Peak (11,240 ft.) were all to the NW.

Indian Peak (L) and Hurricane Mesa (R). Photo looks W.
Hurricane Mesa (L). Pilot & Index Peaks (R). Photo looks NW.

Far to the N, many grand peaks were on display strung out along the spine of the Beartooth Mountains.  Glacier Peak (12,320 ft.), Mount Villard (12,345 ft.), Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) and Mount Peal (12,409 ft.) were all recognizable near Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), Montana’s highest mountain.  Lupe had been to Tempest Mountain.

Glacier Peak (far L), Mount Villard (L), Granite Peak (Center), Tempest Mountain (R), and Mount Peel (far R) all in Montana. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Almost due N were Snowbank Mountain (12,084 ft.), Salo Mountain (12,250 ft.), Castle Rock Mountain (12,401 ft.), Castle Rock Spire (12,450 ft.)Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) and Sky Pilot Mountain, (12,047 ft.) with Beartooth Butte (10,514 ft.) in the foreground.

Summit Mountain (far L), Snowbank Mountain (L), Salo Mountain (Center), Castle Rock Mountain & Castle Rock Spire (R of Center), Castle Mountain (R), Sky Pilot Mountain (far R) with Beartooth Butte in the foreground. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

So much to see!  Mountain glory in all directions, but time waits for no Dingo.  75 minutes after arriving, Lupe stood again near the old wooden cross, the mighty Beartooths of Montana arrayed far beyond her.  A final look, and the inevitable descent began.

Final moments at the Windy Mountain summit. Photo looks NNW.
Heading down. Photo looks NW.

It all went swimmingly at first, just as SPHP had said it would.  Taking Windy Mountain Trail No. 604, the short way up from Sunlight Basin, Lupe followed it down to the junction with Reef Creek Trail No. 605.

At the junction of trails No. 604 & 605. Photo looks S.
Signage at the junction.

No. 605 finally got Lupe to the pass at the upper end of the Reef Creek valley SPHP hadn’t been able to make it to from below.  From here, the trail curved N following the ridge W of the Reef Creek valley, most of the time staying at or near the crest.

Loopster continued to enjoy spectacular views, and got to see Windy Mountain from a new perspective, including much of the route across the valley she had traveled during her ascent.  Despite occasional minor uphill stretches along the big ridge, progress was rapid.

Approaching the pass (L) at the upper end of the Reef Creek valley (R). Photo looks N.
Hunter Peak (9,034 ft.) (L) from the big ridge. Photo looks NNW.
Windy Peak. Lupe had gone up the slope seen directly beyond her. Photo looks SSE.

All went well until Lupe started getting close to Peak 9352.  The first sign of trouble began when she reached a level, but narrow section of the ridge leading to it.  This low point, slightly over 9,000 feet, seemed like a logical place for No. 605 to leave the ridge and start descending into the Reef Creek valley, but instead the trail continued NNE all the way across this section and started to climb.

Approaching HP9352 (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Lupe kept going, gaining 100 feet before reaching a little dip.  Here the trail simply vanished.  No sign of it continuing on toward Peak 9352, or down the steep forested slope leading into the Reef Creek valley.

Oh joy!  What now, SPHP?

Not sure, Loop.  We’ve come a long way.  I’ve been expecting we’d reach wherever No. 605 heads down into the Reef Creek valley for a while now, but this doesn’t seem to be the place.

If only we had a map, SPHP!  We’d know what to do then, or at least where to look!

Oh, hush, sarcastic Dingo!  We just need to find a decent route down into the valley.  We’ll be fine!

Hoping the trail would reappear, SPHP encouraged the American Dingo to keep following the ridge.  That meant another climb of more than 150 feet before reaching a second flat section of the ridgeline.  Peak 9352 was now directly ahead, and not very far away.  Still no sign of the trail, though.  Shadows were lengthening.  A sense of uneasiness grew.

A final look at Windy Mountain from 9,300 ft. SSW of Peak 9352. Photo looks S.

Peak 9352 had two high points, the closer one apparently being the true summit.  Lupe passed within 40 feet of the top on a traverse toward the lower point, from which the ridge presumably went on.

The Carolina Dog never completed this traverse.  Looking down the slope leading into the Reef Creek valley, an open channel went between two walls of rock.  Steep, but definitely doable without much trouble.

Let’s go that way, Looper!

The channel went fine, but the steep descent continued far below it.  In a gloomy forest, Lupe soon found herself trapped within an increasingly rough and narrow drainage.  Cliffing out was a real possibility, as a slow, anxious descent went on and on.

Fortunately, there always seemed to be a way past each pinch point.  At last, another steep drainage joined in from the R.  Amid a jumble of rock and deadfall, the rate of descent soon diminished.  Suddenly, there it was! No. 605!

Great work, Loopster!  You found it!

Even making fast tracks, it took a surprisingly long time to reach the junction with the trail Lupe had followed so far up Reef Creek.  It was easy to see why this turn had been missed earlier in the day.  Coming up the valley, No. 605 had split off making a hard R.  There was a sign up on a tree, but it was situated along No. 605 after the turn, inconspicuous from the valley route.

The sun was still up, but time was getting to be of the essence, since SPHP hoped to get through the marsh, still miles away, before dark.  Wasting no time at the junction, Lupe headed NE following No. 605 down the valley.

Confidence was high, progress excellent, but Looper’s Windy Mountain adventure wasn’t over yet.  Beyond where Lupe had picked up No. 605 after the Dum-Dum Point fiasco, the Carolina Dog reached a stretch of trail she hadn’t been on before.  For a long way it was nearly flat.

Approaching the area near the end of USFS Road No. 115, a much higher starting point for Windy Mountain than the picnic ground, Lupe came to open territory.  Staying toward the L, she passed 4 or 5 new trail signs.  None said anything more than “Trail”.  Beyond these signs No. 605 began curving E, then faded away in a big meadow.  Going straight eventually put Loopster on it again.

Reef Creek could now be seen down in a deep ravine on the R (S).  Along the upper edge, the trail began a gradual descent.  Suddenly there was motion on the slope to the N!  A dark form, 200 feet away.

Loop, a bear!

In an instant, Lupe locked gazes with a medium-sized black bear.  One bark, and the bear took off, running for its life.

Must have tangled with a Carolina Dog before, aye?

When you’re at the top of the food chain, you get a lot of respect, SPHP.

Evidently.

0.67 mile SE of HP8580, Reed Creek Trail No. 605 rounded the ridge Lupe had climbed over earlier in the day and turned N.  The sun was down, and light was fading when it vanished into the marsh.

The marshy region proved much larger than anticipated.  SPHP tried staying high, toward the L (NW) to get around it, but the maneuver soon proved futile.  Unfazed, Lupe splish-splashed right on through, while SPHP’s boots (new ones, of course!) got immersed in muck.  Took a while to slog through it all to dry ground.

Dusk was closing in as Looper once again searched for the trail.  Down, down, mostly through open lanes between stands of conifers, but in the twilight nothing looked familiar.  Finally, Lupe came to a broad bench.

Oh, I remember this, Loop!  The trail leaves this bench somewhere off to the W.  Shouldn’t be too far.  C’mon!  Find that spot and we’ve got it made in the shade!

That’s great, SPHP!  Much shadier, and it’ll be pitch black!

Hurrying W toward the last light, the trail did not appear.  Inexplicably, the flat bench went on and on.

An end finally came.  Lupe stood at the brink of a cliff.  This was it.  No way forward.  Dimly, the cliff could be seen stretching unbroken back to the E for a long way.  The dark terrain to the N all looked hundreds of feet lower.  A sudden shock as the truth sank in.

Loop, this isn’t the same bench!  It’s down there!  We’re way too high!

Back E then, SPHP?

Yeah!  Fast as we can.  All the way past these cliffs.

Night!  The little flashlight had to come out.  Loopster was so far E that Reef Creek could be heard shortly before a small ravine led down to the N.  Was this the way?  Hard to tell.  Exploring it a little lower the ravine broadened out.  Yes, there did seem to be a faint path.

Reef Creek Trail No. 605!  Lupe was on it again.  No worries now.

Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.), what a day!  Back at the RAV4, 15 hours after departure, an exhausted Carolina Dog closed her eyes, twitching paws revealing that she was already setting off for new adventures in Dingo Dreamland.  (End 10:52 PM, 55ºF)

Windy Mountain, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 6-28-21

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Cedar Mountain, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (6-26-21)

Day 5 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

Six miles up the spectacular Shoshone River canyon W of Cody, the RAV4 emerged from the last of 3 tunnels along Hwy 16/20/14.  Immediately off to the L was the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center.  SPHP drove another couple of miles to the first pullout along the big reservoir.

C’mon, Looper!  Let’s have a look at Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.)!

Happy to escape the RAV4 for a while, Lupe accompanied SPHP down to Buffalo Bill Reservoir’s shoreline, a rocky beach littered with driftwood bleached white by the sun.  The beautiful lake consisted of two big arms, one extending miles W near the highway and another off to the S.

Along the E shore loomed a mighty triangular-shaped mountain, it’s rugged W face composed of a series of cliffs overlooking the lake.

Cedar Mountain from the N shore of Buffalo Bill Reservoir. Photo looks E.
Buffalo Bill Reservoir. Sheep Mountain (7,892 ft.) (L). Photo looks WSW.

That’s Cedar Mountain, SPHP?

Sure is, Loop!  Don’t worry, though.  We won’t be going up that way! 

As waves rolled in, the Carolina Dog enjoyed a sniff along the N shore before SPHP suggested checking out the visitor center.  10 minutes later, Lupe was hopping out of the RAV4 at a paved parking lot right across a narrow channel from Cedar Mountain.  The visitor center was a short stroll away.

Setting out for the visitor center. Photo looks NE.
The channel leading back to the main part of the lake from the dam. Lower slopes of Cedar Mountain (L). Photo looks WSW.
Approaching the Buffalo Bill Dam visitor center. Photo looks NE.

The visitor center was not Dingo friendly, but Lupe was free to look around outside.  A walkway over the dam, which was right next to the visitor center, provided a stunning view of the Shoshone River canyon.

Near Buffalo Bill Dam and the visitor center. Cedar Mountain (R). Photo looks E.
Shoshone River canyon from the walkway over the dam. Photo looks NE.

It’s all very scenic, SPHP!  Wonder what the views are like from way up on Cedar Mountain?  Must be incredible!

Oh, I bet they are, Loopster!  Let’s go find out!

Driving E back down the Shoshone River canyon into Cody, SPHP missed the sign for Spirit Mountain Road, mostly likely because there wasn’t one.  The turn eventually proved to be about 2 miles W of Walmart, on the L (S) from that direction, just before Cedar Mountain Trail Rides.  SPHP parked the RAV4 at a large trailhead 150 feet from the highway.

Cedar Mountain Trail Rides, on the L (S) side of Hwy 16/20/14 heading W out of Cody, is just past the L turn onto Spirit Mountain Road. Photo looks WNW.
At the trailhead. Photo looks SW.

11:59 AM, 67ºF – Ready to go!  The American Dingo left the trailhead on a dusty path which soon joined an even dustier trail used by the trail ride horses.  Cedar Mountain’s lower slopes were sparsely dotted with cedars, alright, but Sagebrush Mountain might have been a better name.  The horse trail quickly led to Spirit Mountain Road, which could be seen switchbacking ever higher up the NE slope.

Setting out for Cedar Mountain! Photo looks SW.
Sign passed early on along Spirit Mountain Road.

The road hike wasn’t very exciting, but at least it was easy, just a steady climb winding up the mountain.  The predominate sagebrush didn’t block the views, which inevitably improved as Lupe trudged higher.  Cumulus clouds sailed overhead providing shade, but whenever the sun came out, so did the Carolina Dog’s tongue.  Starting to get hot!

At a sharp turn where there were some rock formations, Lupe left the road for water promised by SPHP and a look around.  Nearby, stretches of the Shoshone River could be seen.  McCullough Peaks (6,547 ft.) were visible off to the NE beyond Cody.  The most dramatic view was due N of Heart Mountain (8,123 ft.).

McCullough Mountains (Center) beyond Cody. Shoshone River (L). Photo looks NE.
Heart Mountain (Center). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Spirit Mountain Road from near the first rock formation viewpoint. Photo looks W.

Continuing on, the day grew sunnier.  Loopster plodded along behind SPHP, panting hard, clearly not too into this baking hot trek.  Whenever SPHP paused for a look at the tremendous views or to gasp for air, the Carolina Dog sought the shade of the nearest cedar tree.

After many switchbacks, the road straightened and leveled out.  Towers could be seen ahead up on Cedar Mountain’s E summit.  It wasn’t much farther to a vacant parking area near a trail to Spirit Mountain Cave.

Towers on Cedar Mountain’s E summit (Center) appear ahead as Spirit Mountain Road finally begins to level out. Photo looks SW.
Sign at the start of the Spirit Mountain Cave trail. Photo looks W.

A key had to be acquired in advance in order to visit Spirit Mountain Caverns.  Since SPHP hadn’t bothered to get one, there was no point in taking this side trail.  Looper continued along the road.  Soon she came to another vacant parking area near a blue gate.

This blue gate was as far as the public was supposed to drive along Spirit Mountain Road.  Beyond this gate were 2 miles of private property.  It was SPHP’s understanding that continuing on paw was acceptable, as long as one stayed on the road.  In any case, the gate was standing wide open when Lupe reached it.

At the blue gate.

The American Dingo pressed on, coming to a brown gate, also open, 15 minutes later.  Beyond the brown gate the road resumed its climb.  Lupe passed through a short stretch of much thicker cedar forest.  Beyond the forest, she entered more open territory again.  This region was grassier with far less sagebrush.

By now, Lupe was getting quite high on the mountain.  A short break was taken beneath a big cedar tree near a sharp bend in the road.  Water and a shared chocolate coconut bar.  Clouds were again providing relief from the sun, but these clouds were darker, and so many had moved in that the weather suddenly seemed iffy.

By a nice clump of orange Indian paintbrush.
At the brown gate.
Beyond the first dense stretch of cedar forest.

However, the sky brightened again.  Loopster kept going.  The towers of Cedar Mountain’s E summit came back into view, still several hundred feet higher.  Lupe passed a house on the R before reaching a green gate.  It was open, too.

Towers ahead again! Getting closer to the E summit. Photo looks W.
At the green gate.

Shortly after passing the green gate, Loopster started coming to the first of many towers scattered over the E summit region.  The weather now seemed ominous.  The sky had darkened again, and a strong breeze blew out of the NW.  Rain, possibly hail, appeared imminent.  Hurrying on, SPHP looked for shelter.

A gray concrete block building appeared on the L just prior to a fork in the road.  Looked like it would do in a real emergency, but things weren’t that dire yet.  Staying L at the fork, Lupe went a bit farther, ultimately seeking refuge in another patch of cedar forest as a gale suddenly swept over Cedar Mountain.  Huge raindrops pelted Loopster as she reached the trees in the nick of time.

Approaching the first towers of the E summit region.

Or so it seemed.  Not really, though.  No sooner had the Carolina Dog reached the forest, which was a little way from the road, than the storm passed.  The rain stopped.  The wind died away.  A squall, nothing more.

That’s it?  Hah!  I thought we were in for it, Loopster!

Maybe we ought to hang out here for a while yet, SPHP.  Just to make sure we’re in the clear again.

I suppose that makes some sense.  Sure, why not?

Another chocolate coconut bar would help to pass the time, SPHP!  Got any more?

Oh, I see!  Yes, but we only have one left.  Don’t you want to save it for the summit?

No.

Silly me.  Asking questions I already know the answer to.

The last chocolate coconut bar helped to pass all of about 10 seconds, and that only because SPHP took 9 to tear it into bite-sized pieces rather than one great wolf-it-down gulp.  Re-energized, Lupe returned to the road.

A couple more towers passed shortly after the demise of the last chocolate coconut bar.

Although Cedar Mountain’s E summit region incorporated quite a large area, Lupe didn’t have much farther to go to get to the top.  After passing W through another stretch of forest, the road climbed a small rise.  Here, several more towers and sheds were scattered along a narrow ridge.

A small rock outcropping proved to be the high point.  For the first time during her ascent, Lupe had a view to the W, quite a spectacular one overlooking the Shoshone River canyon and the N shore of Buffalo Bill Reservoir.  Rattlesnake Mountain (9,116 ft.) was just across the canyon, and Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) was visible among others on the horizon.

Cedar Mountain’s true summit, still 0.75 mile off to the WSW, was now in sight, too.

Near the E summit’s high point. West (true) summit (L). Photo looks WSW.
At the E summit’s high point. Photo looks W.

The best view was from the E summit’s far W end, only a short distance past the high point.  The road went right to it.

True summit (L), Buffalo Bill Reservoir (Center) from the W end of the E summit. Photo looks W.
Buffalo Bill Reservoir (L), Trout Peak on the horizon (R), Rattlesnake Mountain (far R). Photo looks WNW.

From this grand viewpoint, the road went S down a steep open slope, then turned WSW toward the W summit.  Lupe lost 250 feet of elevation before the road bottomed out in yet another forest and began to climb again.  At the very end, a shorter steep slope led to a collection of small antennas.

On the way to the W (true) summit.
Approaching antennas at the end of the road. Photo looks W.

The true summit of Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.) was a 12 foot diameter platform of rock just beyond the antennas.  The views of Buffalo Bill Reservoir 2,500 feet below, and the mountainous territory beyond it were stupendous!

Buffalo Bill Reservoir from Cedar Mountain’s W (true) summit. Photo looks WSW.
Looking SSW.
Trout Peak (L) on the horizon. Rattlesnake Mountain (R). Photo looks NW.
A glance back at the E summit (Center). Photo looks ENE.

A 20-25 mph NW wind was sweeping over the exposed platform when Lupe arrived.  Clouds raced by, but except for occasional stronger gusts, the weather never really threatened again.  Loop didn’t care for the wind at all, and spent nearly her entire summit hour either hunched down on the rock, or curled up on SPHP’s lap.  Most of the time she was in shadow, but there were moments of sunshine, too.

Relaxing at the true summit. Photo looks W.
W arm of Buffalo Bill Reservoir. Photo looks W.
S arm. Photo looks SW.

High plains to the SE.
Heart Mountain. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Cedar Mountain was an awesome vantage point, but the NW wind was relentless.  Lupe was ready when it was time to go.  The American Dingo had one more thing to do up here, though!  She was all the way back at the fork in the road at the E summit, when SPHP had a surprise for her.

Final moments at the true summit. Photo looks WSW.

Loopster, want to see a buffalo?

A buffalo?  Up here?  Sure!

Taking the fork to the R (N) that Lupe hadn’t explored earlier on the way up, it was less than 0.2 mile to a tombstone near cliffs overlooking the Shoshone River canyon.  Nearby, on a platform of rock at the brink of the precipice, a buffalo stood alone in a gale.

A white buffalo!  You were right, SPHP!

Awe and a touch of trepidation soon turned to disappointment when the buffalo did nothing, and a cautious sniff test subsequently revealed it to be a mere statue, not the real thing.  In fact, the poor buffalo was a little worse for the wear, missing its horns and in need of fresh paint.  Still it was a pretty cool buffalo, and certainly enjoyed a magnificent view.

At the E summit fork in the road. The R fork heads for the buffalo. Photo looks NNW.

By the white buffalo of Cedar Mountain. Heart Mountain (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

Next to the buffalo, at the base of the platform, was a green metal box.  Opening it, SPHP found another box of orange plastic tucked into foam padding.  This box contained an elegant leather bound registry.  Due to the fierce wind, SPHP read only one or two entries before adding Lupe’s name, and putting it all away again.

The fancy registry in the orange-tinted plastic box.

So, who was Breck Moran, SPHP?  Was he a friend of the buffalo?

Don’t really know much about Mr. Moran, Loop.  Says here that he was a crusader for Wyoming’s development.  The buffalo is actually in honor of Buffalo Bill, who founded the town of Cody among many other exploits during a long, adventurous life.

So, Buffalo Bill was a friend of the buffalo?

No, not really.  He was a famous buffalo hunter who killed thousands of them to supply Kansas Pacific Railroad workers with meat in the late 1860’s.  But he must have liked buffalo.  His 1906 will said he wanted to be buried up here on Cedar Mountain with a statue of a buffalo.  However, in 1917, Buffalo Bill died while on a trip to Colorado, and his wife had him buried on Lookout Mountain (7,374 ft.) in Golden instead.

So, Buffalo Bill liked buffalo, but killed thousands of them?  That doesn’t make any sense, SPHP!

Humans can be funny that way, Loopster.

Funny peculiar, maybe, SPHP!  Not funny haha, especially for the buffalo!

Think of Buffalo Bill and the buffalo like Dingoes and squirrels.  You love squirrels, but if it weren’t for trees, you’d be known as Squirrel Loop!

Evidently the American Dingo wasn’t sure what to say to that.  She made no response.  Taking leave of the white buffalo on it’s windy platform with the spectacular view high on Cedar Mountain, perhaps it was food for thought as Lupe returned to the road and started the long, winding trek back down to the RAV4.  (End 8:01 PM, 75ºF).

Buffalo Bill Reservoir from Cedar Mountain, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 6-26-21

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Bruce Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (6-25-21)

Day 4 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

8:19 AM, 46ºF, paved pullout on the E side of Hwy 14 at the start of USFS Road No. 277 – Sort of iffy, but the sky seemed to be clearing after last night’s showers.  Loopster was anxious to go, and could always bail if the weather deteriorated.  Bruce Mountain (10,340 ft.) wouldn’t be nearly so hard to get back from as Elk Peak (11,050 ft.) had been, if it did.

About to set off for Bruce Mountain (Center). USFS Road No. 277 in the foreground. Photo looks ESE.

The American Dingo took USFS Road No. 277 across a field down into a drainage, then up the other side to a low hill forested near the top.  The road curved SE, then went past a big gravel yard on the L.  Beyond the gravel Lupe passed several dispersed camping sites on both sides of the road.  Most were occupied.

By the gravel yard. Photo looks ESE.
USFS Road No. 277 in the region of dispersed camping sites. Photo looks SE.

Could have driven the RAV4 this far!  The road was in perfect shape.  However, it soon began to deteriorate.  Enormous murky mud puddles, probably shallow, but of indeterminate depth, covered the whole road from side to side.  On paw they were easily avoided.  Maybe it was a good thing the RAV4 was back at the highway after all.

A little more than a mile past the gravel yard, Lupe came to a junction with USFS Road No. 278, a more primitive route.  She had scarcely set out along it when a clearing appeared on the L (E).  An open green slope led up to a minor ridgeline.

Why don’t we go up there, SPHP?  Maybe we’ll see something?

Made sense.  The ridge paralleled the road not far from it, and would be more fun.

Fine with me, Looper.  Hang on a moment, though.  It’s gotten so sunny, I ought to apply some sunscreen.

At the junction with USFS Road No. 278 (L). Photo looks SSE.
Leaving No. 278 to head up onto the ridge (L). Photo looks ESE.

The crest of the ridge overlooked the valley of the West Fork of the South Tongue River.  Bruce Mountain was on the far side, but there wasn’t any need to cross over to it here.  Instead, Lupe followed the ridge SE slowly gaining elevation.  The ridge soon leveled off, melting away as it merged into a large flat meadow.

USFS Road No. 278 was straight ahead, winding through the meadow.

Up on the minor ridge with a view of Bruce Mountain and the valley of the West Fork of the South Tongue River. Photo looks E.
SE end of the ridge where it starts merging into the meadow. Bruce Mountain (L). Photo looks SE.
NW end of Bruce Mountain beyond the West Fork of the South Tongue River. Photo looks NE.
Antelope Butte (9,935 ft.) from the same region. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Returning to No. 278, the American Dingo followed it SE for a good mile, a super easy trek all out in the flat meadow.  Once past the upper end of the valley of the West Fork of the South Tongue River, Lupe abandoned the road, turning E toward a saddle visible up on Bruce Mountain.

Approaching USFS Road No. 278 again. The plan was to head for the saddle (Center) seen in the distance. Photo looks ESE.
Getting close to where Lupe abandoned USFS Road No. 278 (R) to head up to the saddle (L). Photo looks ESE.

After passing through a short stretch of forest, the saddle was directly ahead, a long open slope leading up to it.  As Lupe roamed higher, what little blue sky there was began vanishing.  Behind the Carolina Dog, dark clouds were gathering toward the W.  Not ominous yet, but something to keep an eye on.  Certainly starting to look like SPHP wasn’t going to get much mileage out of that sunscreen so recently applied.

Heading for the saddle (Center). Photo looks E.
A glance back at the approaching clouds. Photo looks W.

The long slope went on and on.  Lupe stayed toward the S (R), near the base of a ridge that was getting rockier and rockier.  Many of these rocks were peculiar long, rounded slabs.  Scarcely any trees were nearby, but Loop began encountering large patches of low bushes.

In a patch of shrubbery. Photo looks NNW.
On one of the long slabs. Photo looks NE.

The saddle was still some distance away when it began to appear that Lupe ought to be able to get onto the rocky ridge she was next to.  Going up for a look around seemed like a good idea.  Turning S, a short trek higher brought the American Dingo to the ridgeline.  A big knob of rock was directly to the W.  Gazing off to the S and SE, SPHP was instantly both astonished and confused.

On the rocky ridge looking W toward the stony knob.

Quite the view, isn’t it, SPHP?  Always great to be in the Bighorns!

I’ll say.

Hey, aren’t those highest mountains off to the SE Dome Peak (10,828 ft.) and the Sheridan County High Point (11,020 ft.)?  I think they are.  Almost certain of it!

You’re right, Loop.  That’s them alright.

Is something wrong, SPHP?  You don’t seem very enthusiastic.

Oh, it’s all gorgeous, of course!  It’s just that I was expecting to see the top of Bruce Mountain beyond this ridge, or at least the terrain leading up to it.  Instead, the whole mountain drops away.  Where the heck are we?

What?  Well, that’s just fabulous, SPHP!  We’ve hardly started up, and we’re lost already?  Tell ya what, Einstein.  You’re the one with all the fancy maps, why don’t you take a look and figure it out?  Better be quick about it, too!  Fog is rolling in!

Upper Willet Creek drainage. Photo looks S from the rocky ridge.
Dome Peak (L) and the Sheridan County High Point (R of Center). Photo looks SE.

Lupe found a soft spot to lie down.  She gobbled a bowl of Taste of the Wild, then dozed while waiting for SPHP to come to some resolution.  Chilled as the sky darkened, SPHP layered up, then chomped an apple while studying the topo map, trying to make sense of it versus reality.

Awaiting SPHP’s verdict. Photo looks ENE.

To the N, across the broad slope Lupe had just come up were a couple of huge rock formations.  The more distant one was easily 200 feet higher than this ridge where Loopster was now.  Obviously, Bruce Mountain’s summit had to be somewhere in that direction, since everything to the S was much lower.  SPHP had been so disoriented, though, that it took a few minutes to accept this truth.

Ready, Looper?  It’s Onward!  Puppy, ho! time.

Did you figure out where we are, SPHP?

Yup.  We’re at the far S end of Bruce Mountain.  Sort of self-evident, isn’t it?  I was so incredulous at these views, because I had it in my head that we were coming up N of the summit.  Instead, we’re actually well S of it.

Lovely, I’m sure, to have such a keen innate sense of direction!  So, at least you know which way we need to go now?

I do.  Head for that closest humongous rock formation.

Lupe started her search for Bruce Mountain’s summit heading for the rock formation on the R. Photo looks N.

Heading for the closest big rock formation to the NE essentially meant completing the trek up to the saddle Lupe had originally aimed for.  The Carolina Dog lost a good 80 feet of elevation as she left the rocky ridge before starting to climb again.  Expecting there wouldn’t be any problem going around the E side of this formation prior to angling toward the higher, more distant ridge, SPHP was once again surprised when that didn’t turn out to be the case.

This first formation was bigger than it looked, extending much farther E than anticipated.  A continuous wall of rock ran over and well beyond the saddle’s crest.

Starting back down to the green slope leading to the saddle on the R, intending to go around the far side of the rock formation on the L. Photo looks NE.
Near the first huge rock formation. Photo looks N.
Approaching the saddle, with a continuous wall of rock (L) blocking the way N. Photo looks ENE.
Tiny wildflowers of the alpine slope.
Arriving at the top of the saddle only to find that the wall of rock extends down the other side of the mountain. Photo looks ENE.

Well, shoot, Loop!  I can’t believe this!

Why did we come up here in the first place, SPHP?  We could have headed straight for the highest rock formation, if we’d stayed W of this one.  There was an open route the whole way.  Shorter, too!  We both saw it!

I know, but that way looked a lot steeper.  Never dreamed we’d run into this situation.  Guess we’ll have to go back down to the W, if we can’t find a way past this wall of rock.  Hate to lose all the elevation we just gained, though.  Before we do that, let’s have a look around.  Maybe there actually is a way through?

Luck of the Dingo!  There was!  Lupe had barely started searching, when she spied two green ramps leading to the top of the wall.  Quite steep, but certainly doable.  A short climb, and the Carolina Dog was up on top.

The green ramps leading to the top of the first huge rock formation. Photo looks W.

In the time it took SPHP to stagger up behind Loop, fog swept over the region and a light rain set in.  Ahead to the N was an unexpected sight, made all the more mysterious by the cold, damp, gray gloom.  A higher, more formidable wall of rock appeared to run clear across the entire mountain, blocking all hope of further progress beyond it.

Was that the same highest, most distant formation that had been visible from back down at the first rocky ridge?  Sure seemed a lot closer than it should have been.

We have to get past that, too, SPHP?

Afraid so, Loop.

But how?

Search me!  Doesn’t look at all possible, does it?  Going to take a miracle this time.

Above the green ramps of the first rock formation, contemplating the forbidding next wall of rock ahead. Photo looks N.

Spirits dampened in more ways than one, Lupe advanced toward the ghostly obstacle ahead.  There were actually two separate walls of rock.  Passing the smaller one, Loop entered a narrow channel heading ENE between it and the larger wall to the N.  The high point of this gap was close by.  Going to it, Lupe saw a hidden snowbank, beyond which the terrain dropped steeply.

No help that way!

At the top of the channel between the rock formations. Photo looks ENE.

It was starting to rain harder.  SPHP yanked the ancient, blue plastic rain poncho from the pack and put it on.  Return of the Cookie Monster!

Guess we’re stuck, SPHP.  By the way, you look ridiculous!

I don’t believe it!  How can this mountain be so complicated, Loop?  Doesn’t look bad at all on the topo map!  Thought we were going to have an easy romp up here, maybe scramble up a few rocks at the very top to get to the true summit.  Never occurred to me that we’d face anything like all these huge, long, vertical rock walls going clear across the top of the mountain to cut us off.

Well, doesn’t look like we’re getting past this one.  The weather is rotten, anyway.  Maybe we should head back to the RAV4 and try again tomorrow from another direction?  The mountain will still be here.  Want to do that, SPHP? … SPHP? … Oh, no!  Forget it!  I’m not doing that!  It’s practically straight up!

It wasn’t really straight up, though.  The rock wall SPHP was staring at, the big one to the N that Lupe needed to get to the top of, had some lean to it, not a lot, but some.  Looked like there were quite a few possible pawholds, too.  Furthermore, although the rock wall was 30 feet high, there seemed to be some incongruity about 20 feet up, like there was space to maneuver up there.

Now, now, Loop!  You know I’m no rock climber, but I think even I can manage to scramble up the first 20 feet to that cleft or whatever it is up there, provided I’m careful about it.  I’m 100% certain you can, too.  All you need is a boost to get you started!

No!  Stay away from me!  You’re off your rocker, SPHP!

At the base of the scramble higher. Photo looks NW.

SPHP grabbed Loopster, lifting her as high up the wall as possible.  The Carolina Dog fought back, pushing away from the rock.

No!  No!  Let me go, SPHP!  I don’t want to.  Let’s find an easier mountain!  Put me down!  Please!

C’mon, Loop!  Stop fighting it!  You’ll be fine!  Not that hard.  Climb!  You’ll be up there in a flash!  I’ll be coming, too, right behind you.

The struggle lasted only seconds.  Suddenly Looper got the message, clawing her way up to the cleft.  Slowly, carefully, SPHP followed.

Made it!

The last 10 feet turned out to be cake.  Easy climb.  Loop reached the top close to a big boulder at the absolute high point.  A cairn sat right on top, calmly waiting to greet Lupe.

The cairn waited in vain.  No need to go to it.  Could have, but off to the NW, beyond several smaller rock formations scattered over a green plain, was another big rock formation, an even higher one than where Lupe was now.  This wasn’t the summit of Bruce Mountain.

Near the absolute top of this wall of rock, with an even higher one (R) ahead. Photo looks NW.
Contemplating the plain leading to the next summit candidate (L). Photo looks NNW.

For pity sake!

We need to go over there, don’t we, SPHP?

Yeah.

At least it didn’t look hard to get over close to the latest, greatest, true summit candidate.  Lupe headed down to the plain and trotted that way.

Partway there, the rain started in harder yet.  Poor Lupe was getting soaked.  Despite the Cookie Monster outfit, SPHP was, too.  An overhang at the closest rock formation beckoned.  Time to take shelter.

As far as Loop got before having to take shelter. Photo looks NW.

It rained off and on.  Intermittent fog streamed by.  Water dripped from the little overhang, which was barely adequate to provide protection.  Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap inside the Cookie Monster rain poncho, peering out now and then during lulls in the storm.  Occasionally, Antelope Butte (9,935 ft.) was in sight.  Under Lupe’s weight, SPHP’s lower paws slowly went numb.

Waiting for the storm to pass. Photo looks SW.

Seemed like a day it could rain forever.  For variety, it eventually began to rain in sheets.  This was followed by hail until the ground began to turn white.  Nothing serious, just tiny ice particles.

40 long minutes ticked away before the sky brightened.  Antelope Butte reappeared as the fog swept away.  The Carolina Dog decided that maybe the storm was all over and done with.  No more sitting around!  Looper got up.

Looking S back at the high point Lupe had come from.
Antelope Butte (Center) reappears. Photo looks SW.

C’mon, SPHP!  Let’s do this!

Following the American Dingo over open ground on pins and needles as blood flow restored to SPHP’s lower paws, the journey NW toward Bruce Mountain’s next summit candidate resumed.

Instead of heading directly to the imposing S face of the rock formation, Loop aimed E of it, completely avoiding not only another daunting or impossible scramble, but any rough terrain at all.  Gaining elevation, Lupe soon got far enough N to view the formation from the E, where its appearance was much different.

Beyond a snowbank, an easy green ramp of open ground rose between two parallel walls of rock to a crest between them.  Most encouragingly, the walls didn’t look all that high from this angle.

Ho-ho, Looper!  This is more like it!  If the summit is up there, we’re in business!

E of the next Bruce Mountain summit candidate (Center) with a lovely green ramp providing access almost all the way to the top. Photo looks W.

The weather was still questionable as Lupe headed W for the ramp.  Now and then the clouds still spit a little light rain, or released a fine mist.  The thoroughly dampened Dingo must not have been feeling too frigid, though.  Passing the snowbank, she made a point of rolling on it, evidently enjoying the experience.

Then it was on up the ramp, confident of a Bruce Mountain (10,340 ft.) peakbagging success!

Looking back from the base of the snowbank. Photo looks ESE.
Heading up the ramp. Photo looks W.
Near the top of the ramp, looking back the way Loop came up. Photo looks E.

Upon reaching the crest of the green ramp, it was readily apparent that Lupe would have no trouble getting to the top of the rock wall to the N.  Unfortunately, the S wall was clearly higher and far more problematic.

A promising mini green ramp led to the top of the W end of the S wall.  Easy as pie, Lupe sauntered up for a look around.

About to take the mini green ramp up onto the S wall. Photo looks WSW.

Oh, good grief!  How on earth are we going to get over there, Loop?

As my personal representative, I’m looking at you, SPHP.  Have at it!

Looking E, the top of the S wall was surprisingly narrow, lumpy, and full of fissures.  Significant vertical drops on both sides made scrambling, or more likely, crawling clear over to the apparent high point, which was quite some distance away, dicier than anything either Lupe or SPHP was willing to undertake.  Climbing directly up to it from down below didn’t look possible, either.

Looking E along the S wall toward the high point (Center).

Hmm … well, let me see, Loop.  Let’s start with what’s possible without risking our necks.

SPHP headed E along the wall to the closest higher rocks, tagging their tops, which couldn’t have been more than a few feet lower than the more distant high point, with a front paw.  Peering over these rocks – nope, not going any farther!

Nicely done, SPHP!  I’m claiming a peakbagging success!  Close enough for Dingo work, even though that actually is Bruce Mountain’s true summit over there!

Yeah, seems to be, Loop.  We can see an awful lot of territory up here, and nothing else looks even close to being this high.

I know I’m right, SPHP!  I see a cairn, and a registry tube, too!

You do?

SPHP looked again.  Lupe was right.

True summit cairn and registry tube with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks E.

Well, I’ll be, Loop.  Yet another reminder that the world is full of clever people bolder and more capable than me.  Still, it sure would be nice to get your name on the registry in that tube.  This is a pretty cool summit!  Let’s go down and take a closer look from below.  After all, somebody made it up there!

Glancing over at the N wall before heading down the mini ramp. Photo looks N.

Directly below the true summit, with Loopster looking on, SPHP took off the Cookie Monster outfit, then gave it a go, attempting to scramble up a couple of cracks.  Got real close, too, before stalling only 3-5 feet below the registry tube.  SPHP clung to the cold rock, paws going numb, boots scraping away trying to find traction.  One more paw hold would do it!

Looking up the cracks. The registry tube is just out of sight. Photo looks ESE.

You’re almost there, SPHP!  Can you make it?

Maybe, if I give it all I’ve got.  Wish I was stronger!  I can see the tube just above me!  A few more feet and I can grab it.

SPHP hung up there several minutes.  Not to be.  Too intimidating.  Retreat!  Oh, to be a genuine rock climber!

As SPHP’s paws warmed up, further inspection revealed another route via a tiny ledge leading to a scramble to the top a bit E of the true summit.

Second attempt.  SPHP got onto the ledge, actually the narrow top of an almost vertical rock.  This time Lupe tried to follow.  Suddenly leaping onto the ledge, she found it too narrow to keep her balance.  To avoid an uncontrolled fall, she bounded lower.  Fortunately, there was something to bound to.  No harm done.

Second attempt: L on top of the lowest big rock R of Center then straight up at Center. First route visible at R.

Another failure.  SPHP again got close to the top, but the highest rocks were insurmountable.

That’s it, Looper!  Done!  Not happening.  Let the purists whine!

Shall we check out the N wall, SPHP?

Sure!

Lupe needed a boost to get started, but the rest was easy.  A couple of big rocks sat up at the high point.  Loop went right up next to them and might easily have gotten on top, but they were pretty airy.  Since they weren’t the summit, SPHP wouldn’t let her do it.  No point.

Next to the 2 highest boulders of the N wall. Photo looks E.

In any case, the views were wonderful!  The Bruce Mountain highlands extended another 1.5 miles NW, a beautiful, broad rolling plain dotted with boulders, and edged with stony fortifications.  Should have come up that way!  Nothing to it!

View from the W end of the N wall. Photo looks WNW.
The rolling highlands of Bruce Mountain. Photo looks NW.

Exploring the highlands looked like fun!  Why not go back that way?  Lupe concurred.  First, though, she went back up the mini green ramp to revisit the highest point she’d reached on Bruce Mountain, up on the W end of the S wall.  From here she could see not only the true summit with it’s cairn and white registry tube again, but the region she’d crossed during the stormy part of her adventures on the way here.

On the W end of the S wall. Photo looks WSW.
Looking back at Bruce Mountain’s true summit (Center), SPHP’s blue rain poncho (Center) still stashed below it. Photo looks E.
The territory Lupe crossed on the way here. The wall of rock she unwillingly scrambled up (R), and the smaller one where she took shelter from the rain storm (Center) are both in view. Photo looks SE.
Final moments up on the S wall. Photo looks SSW.

Time to move on!  SPHP grabbed the pack and ancient blue rain poncho from where they were still stashed below the true summit.  As Lupe left Bruce Mountain’s summit region, another rain shower struck.  SPHP quickly donned the brilliant blue Cookie Monster costume again.  Meanwhile, the not-so-fortunate Carolina Dog endured another soaking.

Happily, the shower didn’t last long.  Soon the sun was peeping through the clouds.  Among yellow buttercups, Lupe headed down a gentle slope toward the enormous saddle connecting to the NW end of the highlands.

Suddenly, SPHP managed to trip and fall, even though there wasn’t a thing to trip on.

Heading off to explore the NW highlands. Photo looks NW.
Buttercups.

Nice going, Grace!  Are you alright?

Perfectly fine, Looper.  Thanks for asking.  Not sure how I did that.

You’re a companion of many … well, at least one or two … talents, SPHP!

Thanks for the vote of confidence … I think.

SPHP may have been fine, but the blue rain poncho SPHP still wore wasn’t.  The brittle old plastic, which had already borne numerous scars, was now virtually ripped in half.

Dang, Loop!  Look at what I’ve done to my rain poncho!  It’s in tatters!

Horrors!  I can’t believe it, SPHP!  It’s the final blow!  The ignoble end of your infamous Cookie Monster costume!

It was true!  The old blue plastic rain poncho that for countless years had made SPHP resemble the Cookie Monster every time it rained was now completely unusable.  The bitter end had arrived.  Nothing but garbage.  Still in shock, SPHP removed the cracked remains flapping in the breeze before they ripped further and fell off all on their own.

End of an era.  Nothing to be done about it.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Clouds threatened, but it never did rain or mist again.  The rest of the long trek to Bruce Mountain’s NW highlands over the open plain was easy and enjoyable.  Lupe arrived at the highest ground to find a cairn perched near the mountain’s edge overlooking and surrounded by many interesting and beautiful rock formations.  This region was so scenic, that Looper took a break here.  SPHP shared not one, but two, chocolate coconut bars with her.

Chocolate coconut bars successfully dispatched, the Carolina Dog set about exploring the area.  Far to the SE, Bruce Mountain’s true summit was still in sight.

By the little cairn perched along the edge of the NW highlands.
Exploring Bruce Mountain’s scenic NW highlands. Photo looks NW.
Bruce Mountain’s true summit (R of Center) in the distance now. Photo looks SE.
True summit (R) with help from the telephoto lens.
Along the edge. Photo looks W.

The rest of the return was a downhill march.  On open ground, Lupe continued exploring Bruce Mountain, descending its long NW ridge.  Near the lower end, the ridge became forested.  At a final big clearing, Loop was lucky enough to see 2 giant deers.

About to head down the NW ridge. Photo looks NW.
One of the giant deers.

The clearing was the start of a steeper, but still very manageable descent through a beautiful forest.  At the bottom, Lupe reached the West Fork of the South Tongue River, which had to be forded.  Fortunately, it was still just a stream here, not really a river yet.

Wandering SW down through the forest.
By the West Fork of the South Tongue River prior to fording it. Photo looks SE.

Heading W up an easy slope, then a short distance through level forest, the American Dingo popped out onto USFS Road No. 277 again SE of the big mud puddles covering the entire road, which were now bigger than ever after all the rain.  To avoid them, Loop paralleled the road heading NW through the forest until she got close to the gravel yard.

No more obstacles!  Only a road hike back to the RAV4 remained.  Later on in the evening, Lupe did get to see 3 moose, which was very exciting, but her big Bruce Mountain adventure was over.  (End 5:01 PM, 52ºF)

Bruce Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 6-25-21

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Elk Peak, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (6-23-21 & 6-24-21)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

6-22-21, 7:40 PM – Free at last!  A whole month had shot by after getting back from New Mexico, but Lupe’s 2nd fabulous Dingo Vacation of 2021 was finally underway.  Despite a late start this morning, the Carolina Dog had made it to the Bighorns with enough daylight remaining for an evening romp.

Joyful among sweet-scented lupines, Lupe alternately sniffed or dashed her way through the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness, excited by the whistles of marmots coming from over by rock formations on the N side of the valley.

Oh, happy day! Back in the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness!

The American Dingo paused for a cold drink out of the North Tongue River.  Following the river upstream, Loop surprised a moose hidden among the willows.  Splashing noisily over to the far bank, the moose vanished into the woods.  Climbing up onto the rock formations, Lupe surveyed the Elysian Fields hoping to see those whistling marmots.

Oh, it’s a glorious evening, SPHP!

That it is, Looper!  Nothing so rare as a day in June!

Especially in the Bighorns, SPHP!

No argument there, sweet puppy!

Along the North Tongue River.
On the rock formations overlooking the North Tongue River and Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness. Photo looks SSW.

6-23-21, 6:41 AM, 51°F, Coney Creek trailhead along USFS Road No. 26 – Lupe had been bright-eyed and alert an hour ago, but it had taken SPHP this long just to have a bite to eat and get organized.  Everything seemed to be ready now, though, and the weather was perfect.  A few minutes to register before heading into the Cloud Peak Wilderness, and it was Onward!  Puppy, ho!  time.

About to leave the Coney Creek trailhead along USFS Road No. 26.
The Cloud Peak Wilderness registration station across the road from the trailhead.

Lupe was in fine spirits as she set off heading S into the forest on Coney Creek Trail No. 21.  Racing ahead of SPHP, she lost no time setting about searching for squirrels, scoring some early successes.  The forest rang with the American Dingo’s shrill barking – off a marvelous start!

The trail began by climbing at a moderate pace, but soon leveled out on a minor ridge where there were some big boulders.  Nothing to see here except forest, but Lupe got up on one of the biggest rocks, anyway.

On a big rock at the top of the first minor ridge along Trail No. 21.

What a great day, SPHP!  Where are we going anyway?

Elk Peak (11,050 ft.), or Giant Deer Peak, if you prefer, Loop.

Giant Deer Peak!  That sounds awesome!

Hope so.  It’s a fur piece, though.  Going to be a long day.

A long day in the Bighorns sounded like fun!  The Carolina Dog was used to them, but it wouldn’t be until much later that it would become clear just how long a day it was going to turn out to be.

This first minor ridge was the high point of Trail No. 21 the rest of the way to Stull Lakes.  From what SPHP had been able to gather online, the Coney Creek trailhead and this route were relatively new.  The trail used to start from Twin Lakes which were something like a mile off to the SE.

Since the entire region was forested, Lupe never even caught a glimpse of Twin Lakes.  Trail No. 21 wound through the forest making a gradual descent.  Lupe passed a river of large white boulders before crossing 3 streams.  The first one must have been Snail Creek.  It was the smallest, and the only one with a bridge.

Cooling off next to the stone bridge over Snail Creek.

The second stream either came from, or went to, Lost Lake.  Although larger than Snail Creek, it was an easy rock-hop.  Coney Creek, the third stream, was larger yet and more problematic.  SPHP had to search for a place where it could be rock-hopped.

Crossing the Lost Lake stream. An easy rock-hop!
A flat stretch of Trail No. 21 on the way to Stull Lakes.
Coney Creek where Trail No. 21 reached it. Too wide and deep to rock-hop it here!
Rock-hopping Coney Creek 40 feet upstream of where the trail forded it.

7 minutes past Coney Creek, Loopster reached a boulder overlooking the largest of the Stull Lakes.  Here she had a view of the mountains off to the W.  Two that the Carolina Dog had climbed in 2020 were in sight.  Dome Peak (10,828 ft.) was 3 miles almost due W.  The Sheridan County High Point (11,020 ft.) was slightly farther away off to the SW.

On the boulder overlooking the largest of the Stull Lakes. Photo looks SW.
Sheridan County High Point (L of Center) from Stull Lakes. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Dome Peak (L) from the largest of the Stull Lakes. Photo looks W.

A considerable amount of open ground existed along the S shore of the largest Stull Lake, but an attempt to venture down to the shoreline failed.  Turned out this entire area was just a big bog.

Oh, well.  No big deal!  However, another issue of far greater importance soon became apparent.  Although the topo map showed a number of trails intersecting S or E of the largest Stull Lake, SPHP saw no sign of any of these other trails.  Even Lupe couldn’t sniff them out.  Since the plan had been to take Trail No. 114 from here all the way to Pass 10220 SW of Elk Peak, this was a big deal.

Suddenly, the Carolina Dog was facing the prospect of miles of off-trail travel, the first part of which would be in a forested region unlikely to have any views to help orient by.  Furthermore, Lupe would have to ford Wilderness Creek, which from the looks of the area it drained on the map might be nearly a river where fabled Trail No. 114 crossed it, if that point could even be found.

Only Trail No. 21 seemed to continue from here.  The topo map showed it ending 1.5 miles WSW at Coney Lake.

So, what’s it going to be, SPHP?  Plunge S into the forest, or Coney Lake?

Sure going to be the long way around, Loopster, but Coney Lake, I guess.  Kind of afraid of what we might run into down at Wilderness Creek if we try to head S from here.

Leaving the largest Stull Lake, Trail No. 21 briefly turned SW.  Lupe came to an unmarked trail that split off to the S just before Trail No. 21 crossed a ravine with a tiny trickle of a stream in it.  Exploring this side trail up a relatively short slope, the Carolina Dog came to a big pond, which might well have been the smaller of the Stull Lakes.

Since the side trail vanished here, returning to Trail No. 21 seemed to be the only sensible thing to do.  Upon reaching it, Lupe crossed the ravine containing the tiny stream and continued WSW.

Trail No. 21 wound through the forest, most of the time gaining elevation at a moderate pace.  The path was generally easy to follow, but there was little to see other than trees.  Lupe eventually came to a level rocky spot where a cairn sat on a boulder, but this point didn’t seem to be of any real significance.  Shortly before reaching Coney Lake there was a view to the R of a big meadow down in a valley, with a glimpse Dome Peak in the distance.

By the cairn at the rocky spot.
At the meadow viewpoint not far from Coney Lake. Dome Peak (R). Photo looks W.

Trail No. 21 ended at a fine camping spot on a small knoll immediately SE of Coney Lake.  It would have been an even better camping spot if not for a wand saying that camping within 100 feet of the lake was illegal.  Unfortunately, although largely hidden by trees, the lake wasn’t that far away.  Lupe headed down to the shoreline for a better look.

At Coney Lake. Sheridan County High Point (L), HP10740 (Center). Photo looks SW.
Dome Peak (Center) beyond Coney Lake. Photo looks NW.

Although Trail No. 21 officially ended here, a use path continued SW along Coney Lake’s SE shore.  Going past a boggy region S of the lake, it led to a big ravine full of light grey boulders.  The use trail did not cross this ravine, instead turning S and heading up the steep slope just E of it.  After a climb of nearly 200 feet, the terrain leveled out.

A pond here, shown on the topo map, confirmed Lupe’s position.  She was now less than 0.5 mile due N of where Wilderness Creek coming down from the S made an abrupt 90° turn E.

Following the use trail along the SE shore of Coney Lake. Photo looks NE.
Heading up the ravine S of Coney Lake. Photo looks SSW.
At the pond where the terrain leveled out 0.2 mile S of Coney Lake.

Beyond the pond, a gentler slope went up to a little pass on the big ridge S of Coney Lake.  By now the use trail was fading away.  It was probably heading up to HP10020 and beyond, since this ridge was a popular route to the Sheridan County High Point (11,020 ft.), now only 1.33 mile SW.  Following the S side of the ridge, Lupe kept climbing until she started getting glimpses of Elk Peak (11,050 ft.), still 3 miles SSE beyond the huge Wilderness Creek drainage.

Saddle Mountain (10,569 ft.) (Center) and Elk Peak (R) from the ridge S of Coney Lake. Photo looks SSE.

The plan was now to continue high enough to keep Elk Peak reliably in sight, then head S all the way to Pass 10220.  If successful, this meant the Carolina Dog would be traveling through the territory W of Wilderness Creek without ever having to ford it.

Continuing SW somewhat farther up the ridge, Lupe never did get above treeline.  The forest had thinned out, though, by the time she turned S.

The Sheridan County High Point (Center) from the first ridge S of Coney Lake. Photo looks SW.

At first, progress was decent.  Loopster wandered through relatively easy stretches of forest and open ground.  She came to a small, lively stream, a tributary of Wilderness Creek, which was easily leapt over.

By the first of many tributaries of Wilderness Creek. None presented serious difficulty.

Still hoping to get above treeline, SPHP encouraged Lupe to keep slowly gaining elevation.  However, this policy eventually backfired.  The views kept improving, but the going got tougher as the mountainside Loopster was traversing became much rockier.  The Carolina Dog was still E of the Sheridan County High Point when she came upon a large field of talus overlooking another small pond.

The territory ahead looked discouragingly rugged.

Saddle Mountain (L) and Elk Peak (Center) as the terrain gets rocky. Photo looks SSE.
At the pond (visible beyond Lupe) overlook. Elk Peak (L). Photo looks SSE.
Among the boulders. Photo looks NNE.

Loop kept going, but SPHP’s progress was very slow.  Fortunately, this first boulder field proved to be the worst of the rocks.  Once through it, the terrain became considerably easier again.

The march S continued.  Lupe came to another pond, a long skinny one difficult to get past.  Beyond it was a descent into a boggy valley toward the W.  After crossing another tributary of Wilderness Creek running through the bog, Lupe faced a climb back up into another rocky area.

Cooling off in a snowbank.
At the skinny pond, which extended way off to the R. Photo looks S.
E of the Sheridan County High Point (R). Photo looks W.
About to head down into the first boggy region. Photo looks SW.

Losing and regaining elevation in order to cross bogs and streams in side valleys toward the W developed into a pattern that kept repeating itself.  At one point Lupe came to a spot where it looked a lot easier to just head down into the Wilderness Creek valley, but SPHP was reluctant to lose the elevation.

An easy opportunity to enter the Wilderness Creek valley. Instead, SPHP encouraged Lupe to remain high. Saddle Mountain (L) and Elk Peak (Center). Photo looks SE.

Staying high back-fired.  Another climb, followed by yet another drop into a boggy side valley, was ahead.  S of this bog, a massive wall of rock extending out from the enormous ridge to the W finally put an end to this wearying and time-consuming process.  Lupe was forced to begin a steep descent into the Wilderness Creek valley.

Down in the last boggy side valley. Photo looks W.
The rock wall on the R prevented Lupe from continuing S, forcing a steep descent into the Wilderness Creek valley. Photo looks ESE.
Following another tributary of Wilderness Creek lower.
Approaching the Wilderness Creek valley. Elk Mountain (L) and Pass 10220 (R). Photo looks SSE.

Upon reaching the floor of the valley, the American Dingo discovered plenty of open ground occupied by another bog.  Only a mile due N of Pass 10220 now, if Lupe could cross the valley here, she could head SE straight up Elk Peak!  Fortunately, it wasn’t too hard to find a relatively dry route with minimal splish-splashing required to get through it all.  Better yet, Loopster was far enough upstream so that Wilderness Creek itself was no longer a significant obstacle.  Even SPHP managed to leap over in a single bound.

After crossing the valley, Lupe started up Elk Peak.  Grassy, easy terrain soon got so steep that SPHP had to pause frequently gasping for air.

Looking NW back across the Wilderness Creek valley.

After gaining several hundred feet of elevation, the rate of climb began to diminish.  Still a long way to go, though!  Above treeline, the grassy slope started getting rockier.  The Carolina Dog came to a long snow bank, and enjoyed wandering up it.

Near treeline. Elk Peak (Center). Photo looks SE.
At the start of the long snowbank. Photo looks SE.

By the time Looper reached the upper end of the snowbank, she wasn’t all that far from an obvious high point directly E.  Following the easiest terrain higher rather than heading straight for it, she approached from the SW.  This last slope wasn’t all that steep, but quite rocky.

Above the long snowbank. Photo looks WSW.
Getting might rocky. Photo looks NE.

Scrambling NE through a field of talus, Loopster finally reached a wide, flat saddle toward the NW end of Elk Peak’s summit region.  Sandwiched between several large rock formations, this saddle sported a fair amount of grass among scattered boulders.

Whew!  I’m pooped, Loop.  How about taking a longer break right here?

The Carolina Dog was all for that notion.  Looper curled up on the soft green grass.  Water and a bite to eat.  A little dozing.  20 minutes ticked away before SPHP managed to stagger up again.

Which of these rock formations is the true summit, SPHP?

This one right next to us, I think.  C’mon, let’s see if we can get up it!

In truth, the huge pile of talus looked rather dicey.  Scrambling SE, Lupe got most of the way up easily enough, but the final stretch was a doozy.  Still tens of feet below what appeared to be the top, Loop was confronted by an almost vertical wall of massive boulders with treacherous holes between them.  Unable to see a safe route higher, SPHP balked.  Uh-uh.  Not going to work!

Partway up with a view of the grassy saddle. Photo looks NW.
Looking down on Saddle Mountain (L) and Dome Lakes (R). Photo looks NE.
Heading for the insurmountable wall of rock. Photo looks SE.

Well, shoot, Loopster!  All this way, and we can’t get to the top?

Oh, there has to be a way!  Let’s try another spot, SPHP!

A partial retreat, and Lupe tried again, this time working around to the SW side of the rock formation.  At first it didn’t appear that this attempt was going to pan out, either, but the situation improved once the American Dingo managed to get past a few particularly enormous chunks of talus.

Hah!  Promising!  Keep going, sweet puppy!  We’re almost there!

Scrambling higher, Lupe made it to the top of the rock formation that had been insurmountable from the NW.  She had a terrific view of the Sheridan County High Point (11,020 ft.) and Dome Peak (10,828 ft.) back in that direction.

Past the biggest talus, now over on the SW side. Photo looks SSE.
Scrambling higher. Photo looks NE.
Sheridan County High Point (L) and Dome Peak (Center). Photo looks NW.

This vantage point still wasn’t quite the top of Elk Peak (11,050 ft.).  The true summit, another collection of big boulders, was a little farther SSE.  Fortunately, most of the boulders were fairly conveniently arranged.  Getting over to the highest rock wasn’t all that difficult.  With a boost from SPHP, Lupe claimed her latest peakbagging success!

Approaching the true summit. Photo looks SSE.
On the highest rock! Photo looks SSE.
True summit of Elk Peak. Photo looks SSE.

The cluster of tall boulders in the immediate vicinity of the true summit was a cramped spot.  Hardly any room to move around!  Lupe couldn’t see a thing down in the narrow spaces between the huge rocks, but the views from up on top were stupendous!

Far to the SSE, Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.), highest of the Bighorn Range, was the big attraction.  To the S, and considerably closer, was a line of unnamed peaks about as high as Elk Peak.  Pass 10220 at the upper S end of the Wilderness Creek valley, was off to the SW.  Another line of peaks ran N from there over to the Sheridan County High Point and Dome Peak, which together dominated the scene to the NW.

Cloud Peak (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.
View to the S of unnamed peaks of similar height.
Sheridan County High Point (L) and Dome Peak (Center) from Elk Peak’s summit. Photo looks NW.

0.67 mile to the N, Lupe gazed down on a green pasture featuring several notable rock formations.  That was Saddle Mountain (10,569 ft.).  Both Lookout Mountain (10,147 ft.) and Black Mountain (9,489 ft.) could be picked out far beyond it, but they weren’t too impressive from here.

Dome Peak (L). Saddle Mountain is the green pasture (R). Both Lookout Mountain and Black Mountain (Center) on the far horizon. Photo looks N.

Nothing to the NE or E was anywhere close to being as high as Elk Peak, but the largest of the Twin Lakes and both Dome Lakes were in sight.

Dome Lakes (R) and the largest of the Twin Lakes (L). Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Looking around for some sign of a registry, SPHP noticed a red plastic Folgers coffee jar with a black lid tucked down in a cubby hole between the two highest rocks.  Upon inspection, this jar contained only 2 items.  Both were sopping wet.  One was a Cloud Peak Wilderness permit stating Annie Kill had been here on 8-6-20, having come up from Dome Lakes.

The other item was what SPHP had hoped to find, a small notebook with a  yellow cover serving as a registry.  Sadly, the water-logged notebook was in such bad shape that it was basically garbage at this point.  Having abandoned the pack back down at the grassy saddle, SPHP had no pen or paper to leave any separate entry for Lupe.

The Folgers coffee jar in its hiding spot.
On the 2nd highest rock on Elk Peak. True summit (R). The coffee jar was down in the deep slot between these 2 rocks. Photo looks SW.

Elk Peak was glorious, but time waits for no Dingo.  20+ minutes shot by.  Sadly, already time to head back down to the grassy saddle to retrieve the backpack.  SPHP’s slow-as-molasses scrambling gave Lupe plenty of opportunity to continue enjoying the views along the way.

Final moments near the true summit. Photo looks SSE.
Starting down. Pass 10220 (Center) with part of Shell Reservoir visible beyond it. Photo looks SW.
View to the S during the initial descent.
Come on, SPHP! Can you hurry it up a bit? Pass 10220 (L). Photo looks SW.
Rock formations SSE of the true summit (Center). Cloud Peak (L) on the horizon.

6-23-21, 6:45 PM, the grassy saddle toward the NW end of Elk Peak – SPHP grabbed the backpack and strapped into it.  Egads!  12 hours gone since the American Dingo had struck out for Elk Peak from the Coney Creek trailhead this morning, and she was still here!  A few hours until dusk, and that would be it as far as natural light.

At as lively a pace as possible despite a certain degree of weariness, SPHP set off heading N, but only went far enough to get another look at Saddle Mountain.  A long, broad, rounded ridge led down from Saddle Mountain into a thickly forested region surrounding the Dome Lakes.

Cripes, Loop!  I should have brought the Cloud Peak Wilderness map!  These little topo maps I printed out don’t even cover the Dome Lakes region.

You thinking of going back that way, SPHP?

Yes!  Only about 3 miles down to the lakes, and it doesn’t look bad at all.  Annie Kill made it, and I know there are roads somewhere down there.  Might be a longer return overall following the roads, but so what?  If we can get to the Dome Lakes and find a road before sunset, we’d have it made in the shade the rest of the way back.

Does tend to get pretty shady at night, SPHP.

Yeah, no doubt.  On the other paw, having seen how open the Wilderness Creek valley is, I think we could make much faster progress going down it than on the rough high route farther W that we took getting here.

If we can get back to the trail at Coney Lake before dark, wouldn’t that be just as good then, SPHP?  Trail No. 21 was in good shape.

Yeah, but I seriously doubt we’d get that far, Loopster.  Too late already.  We’d probably wind up wandering through the pitch black forest looking for the trail after dark.

Well then, if you think it’s better, SPHP, let’s head for the Dome Lakes!  Decide quick, though!  Your precious daylight’s wasting!

Map or no map, the Dome Lakes route was almost certainly a better choice under the circumstances.  Loopster might even be able to tag the summit of Saddle Mountain (10,569 ft.) along the way, provided the rock formations weren’t too gnarly!

SPHP hesitated, then turned around, heading SW back through the grassy saddle.

Wilderness Creek, SPHP?  Really?

Yup!  Onward!  Puppy ho!

Fine with me, SPHP, but why didn’t you choose Dome Lakes?

Oh, I don’t know, Loop.  Mental illness, I suppose, or at least a personality disorder.  Exploring the remote Wilderness Creek valley seems a lot more exciting than just following that ridge down to the lakes and a long dreary road hike.

And if we can’t find the trail in the dark?

We’ll cross that bridge when we come to it.

So Lupe left Elk Peak enjoying a long romp down the spacious, gentle SW slope leading to Pass 10220.  SPHP strode after her making hay while the sun still shone.

Exploring the wide open spaces of Elk Peak’s SW slope. Elk Peak (Center) didn’t really look like much of a mountain from here! Photo looks NE.
Frolicking on a snowbank on the way to Pass 10220. Photo looks ENE.

With time of the essence and such favorable terrain, it wasn’t necessary to go all the way to Pass 10220.  Before Lupe got that far, she turned NW following one of many snow melt tributaries down to Wilderness Creek.

Heading down to the Wilderness Creek valley. Sheridan County High Point (R). Photo looks NW.

Upon reaching Wilderness Creek, a series of small waterfalls drained N as the creek rushed down to the flatter, boggy region where Loop had first crossed this valley on the way to Elk Peak.  In that same area, the Carolina Dog leapt back over to the W side of the stream.  Heading NW just far enough to reach drier ground, she turned N again.

Following waterfalls down the upper Wilderness Creek valley. Photo looks S.

Progress was rapid.  The terrain, partly forested, but with lots of open space, too, was much easier down here than the high route taken earlier way up on the steep slopes to the W.  The only genuine obstacles were occasional big bogs fed by tributaries of Wilderness Creek.  These bogs forced long detours way around their W edges.

As the valley broadened out, the best route drifted farther and farther from Wilderness Creek.  Lupe eventually lost sight of it off to the E, and after a while the creek could scarcely even be heard.  Wilderness Creek appeared to have disappeared into a lower heavily forested region.  As Loop passed the last of the big bogs, the terrain ahead began to slope up into the trees.

By now the sun was long gone.  As the Carolina Dog entered the forest, already fading light deepened into a dim gloam.  Before long SPHP’s tiny flashlight had to come out.  Dreaded night had arrived.

Lupe was tired.  All the way down the Wilderness Creek valley, she’d been hanging back, taking little rest breaks and following only when SPHP was out of sight.  It was like being stalked, always looking back to see if Looper was still coming, or listening for the tinkle of her tag.  Now that it was dark there was no reason not to stop for a while to rest up.

As a full moon rose over the ridge to the E, SPHP stroked Lupe’s big soft Dingo ears.

We seem to be at that bridge you talked about crossing when we came to it, SPHP.  What now?  How much farther to the trail according to your map?

Dunno, Loop.  Not sure if we’re past where Wilderness Creek turns E or not.  Even if we’re not that far yet, we ought to be before too long.  Just guessing, I’d say we’re only a mile or so S of Coney Lake.

A mile through the forest didn’t sound so bad, but maybe it wasn’t a good estimate? After a decent rest, Lupe continued N, SPHP navigating by moonlight.  The forest went on and on, though.  Deadfall, rocks, small streams and bogs, uphill and down, one obstacle and steep rocky hillside after another.  In the black forest, the terrain seemed much more rugged than the topo maps had led SPHP to believe.

More rest breaks were followed by more frustration.  The helpful moon vanished.  Hard to say at any given moment exactly what direction Lupe was going, other than that SPHP felt reasonably confident it was likely still some version of N.  Who knew for sure, though?  She might be going in a circle.  Or S!

No sign of Coney Lake.  No sign of anything other than faint animal trails that gave out almost right away.  SPHP began to worry that it might be awful easy to cross Trail No. 21 in the darkness without realizing it.  Maybe it had already been missed?

At long last, Lupe climbed to the top of a high ridge.  Despite hopes, no trail up here, either.  Trying to continue N, the ground soon began to drop steeply away in all directions.  Ultimately descending toward what SPHP thought was the NE, Lupe lost what seemed like a ton of elevation, yet the terrain just kept dropping.  The American Dingo wanted to rest again.  Obliging, SPHP laid down in the dirt.

Hope you don’t mind if I curl up, too!

Please do, SPHP!  How much farther to the trail now?  Seems like we’ve been going forever!

I know it.  I have no idea what hour of the night it is, other than that it’s very late, or any clue where we are now.  No sense in going any farther.

We’re lost, SPHP?

Well … yes!  You could say that, at least to some degree.  Of course, we still have a general notion of where we are, within a few miles or so.  If we keep going, though, the most likely result is that we’ll just get even more lost.  So sweet dreams, Loopster!  This is it for tonight.

Sleeping right on the dirt in a lonely dark forest high in the mountains after an exhausting all day march isn’t all it’s cracked up to be, never mind that the brochures aren’t all that tantalizing in the first place.  Lupe dozed more peacefully than SPHP did, her head resting on SPHP’s hand.

6-24-21, 4:00 AM?, lost in the forest – A bit of light in the sky.  Dawn!  Thank heavens!  SPHP rolled over, becoming instantly alarmed.  Where was Lupe?

Oh, there she was!  The Carolina Dog was only a few feet away, already awake and listening intently, apparently refreshed and excited by the strange night spent lost in the wilderness.  SPHP heard nothing but a light breeze in the pines.

Fortunately, the night had been a fairly warm one.  Chilly toward the end, but not that bad considering what it might have been.  SPHP got up stiffly.  Soon it would be light enough to resume the march N.  Suddenly, Lupe was off like a shot!  She was after something, something bigger than a squirrel.  SPHP never saw what it was, but called her back right away.

So what’s the emergency, SPHP?  Spoil sport!  This day was about to get off to an epic start!

Save that energy, Loop!  You can’t go running off after the wildlife.  What did you see, anyway?

Not telling!

Breakfast.  Lupe crunched up the last of her Taste of the Wild.  SPHP had applesauce.  As soon as it was light enough to see some brown in Lupe’s fur, the return from Elk Peak adventure got underway again.

Losing so much elevation at the end last night had been a big mistake.  Not going see any landmarks to navigate by way down here in the dense forest!  At least the sunlight gave some idea of the general direction Lupe was going.  For 2 hours she roamed N or NW through gently undulating territory, gradually gaining elevation most of the time.  Nothing looked at all familiar.

At last, Looper was high enough to catch a glimpse of Saddle Mountain and Elk Peak.  A bit farther, and a big mountain could be seen off to the W, but whether it was the Sheridan County High Point or Dome Peak wasn’t clear.  Soon Lupe reached a better view.  Dome Peak was off to the NW.  Coney Lake had to be just down the steep slope directly ahead!

Getting down to Coney Lake was a bit of an unexpected ordeal.  Lupe was somewhere E of the ravine full of white boulders, and trying to go N directly down to the lake kept cliffing her out.  Eventually, working W to the ravine solved the problem.

And that was it, as far as adventure was concerned.  Picking up Trail No. 21 again at the SE corner of Coney Lake meant a known route back.  Still weary from yesterday’s exertions, SPHP plodded along, pausing to rest after each tiny uphill stretch.

Somehow the American Dingo showed no ill effects.  She amused herself searching for squirrels in the sunlit forest.  Too bad SPHP couldn’t bottle up some of that energy and take a giant swig!

6-24-21, 9:01 AM, Coney Creek trailhead, USFS Road No. 26 – 26 hours and 20 minutes after leaving for Elk Peak, the Carolina Dog’s longest “day hike” ever was over.  Eager to curl up on her pink blanket, Lupe leapt into the RAV4.  Food, sleep, more food, more sleep, was pretty much it for the rest of the day.  After an afternoon visit to the Dead Swede picnic ground along the beautiful South Tongue River, the lucky Dingo grabbed the last dispersed camping spot next to the spruce forest 0.5 mile SW of Owen Creek campground.

During an evening stroll out to sniff the air under a sky that looked like rain, SPHP wondered how that last mile back to Coney Lake could have possibly taken so many hours?  No telling where Lupe had been, but it must have been a very convoluted route indeed!  Only two things were certain.  She’d never be there again, and as beautiful as the Wilderness Creek valley had been, next time the American Dingo was taking that big ridge down to Dome Lakes!

On Elk Peak, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 6-23-21

Links:

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Dome Peak, Bighorn Mountains, WY (6-27-20)

The Sheridan County High Point, Bighorn Mountains, WY (6-27-20)

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Panorama Point, the Nebraska State High Point (5-22-21)

Day 15 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to New Mexico!

5-22-21, 6:42 AM, 40ºF, Jemez Mountains, New Mexico –

We’re turning around, SPHP?

Yup.  Sorry, Loopster!  It’s not happening.

The RAV4 had made it a few miles W of the pass along USFS Road No. 144 where Lupe had started for Polvadera Peak (11,232 ft.) yesterday, but directly ahead was a stretch of very rough road.  The intention had been to start the day with an ascent of Cerro de la Garita (10,600 ft.), but it was still miles away, and Lupe’s RAV4 was practically brand new!  SPHP wasn’t about to abuse it like this.

So Cerro de la Garita was out.  Morning sun shining directly into SPHP’s eyes, the scenic drive back E to Espanola began.

Turned out, not much else was going to happen on this Dingo Vacation, either.  It was time to start for home, and farther N the peaks on Lupe’s list of possibilities for this trip were all too high, still blanketed in snow.  It was a gorgeous drive, though, through some parts of New Mexico and Colorado Lupe had never been to before.  For hundreds of miles, the Carolina Dog was content riding in comfort on her pink blanket while enjoying all the fabulous scenery.  Cows, horses, sometimes even sheep!

Now and then SPHP stopped to let the American Dingo get out to stretch and sniff the air for a few minutes, but SPHP seemed to have a different sense of what the journey’s highlights were.

Rio Grande River from Hwy 68, S of Taos, New Mexico.
Blanca Peak (14,345 ft.) (L) from Hwy 160, NE of Fort Garland, Colorado.

In Colorado, everything was green E of the Rockies.  Clouds hung low over the prairie, hiding the mountains, as heavy showers drifted slowly E.  Once SPHP turned N onto I-25, the interesting part of the drive was over as far as Loopster was concerned.  Nothing but traffic.  Nap time!

A long nap it was, too.  SPHP thought about taking Hwy 24 NE out of Colorado Springs, then turning N on Hwy 71 way out on the prairie, but didn’t do it, a decision soon regretted as rain, construction, and accidents made a stop and go mess of I-25 all the way to Denver and beyond.

After fueling the RAV4 at Exit 269 near Fort Collins, instead of returning to I-25, SPHP drove E on Hwy 14 toward Briggsdale.  Lupe yawned.

Finally wised up and getting us out of all the horrendous traffic, SPHP?

Yes, wised up in more ways than one, actually.

What do you mean, SPHP?

Rather late as far as ditching the traffic goes, since we were already past the worst of it, but I happened to think about one more thing we ought do on this Dingo Vacation.

And what might that be?

How would you like to see some buffalo, Looper?

You know I’d love that, SPHP!

Well, if we can get there before it gets dark, you might get to see some.

Get where before dark?

Panorama Point (5,429 ft.), Loop!  Highpoint of the state of Nebraska!  It’s at the far SW corner of the Nebraska panhandle on a buffalo ranch.

That sounds great, SPHP!  Drive a little faster, would you?  Don’t want to miss out on the buffalo!

5-22-21, 8:00 PM, 53ºF, Nebraska state line – Of all the rotten luck!  Poor Loop wasn’t going to get to see much of anything at Panorama Point, even though the evening light hadn’t completely faded away yet.  20 miles from Panorama Point, SPHP had driven into dense fog.

Standing cheerfully in a raw 20-25 mph E wind next to a big sign at the Nebraska state line, Lupe didn’t seem to realize what that meant yet.  By the looks of the big grin on her face, the excited Carolina Dog was still eagerly anticipating all those glorious buffalo spread out across the Nebraska plains, a notion the sign greatly reinforced.

At the High Point Bison sign just inside the Nebraska state line.

Apparently High Point Bison is the name preferred by the owners of the ranch where Panorama Point is located.  Lupe thought it a marvelous name!  0.1 mile N of the High Point Bison sign, SPHP turned L (W) off County Road No. 203.  Another sign at the turn explained the rules for public access.  Basically a $3.00 per person fee, and no messing around with the buffalo – vehicle access only, no hiking or biking in.

The pay station was out of envelopes, so SPHP just wrote a check and slid it into the red metal drop box.

At the entrance to High Point Bison, aka Panorama Point. Photo looks S.
Public access rules set by the landowners.

After paying the fee, there was no gate to open or close entering the ranch, only a cattle guard to drive over, a rather nice convenience on such a blustery, damp evening.  Panorama Point was a little over a mile farther W.  Sadly, the fog was so thick only the pasture next to the dirt road could be seen during the drive in.

Near the end, the access road curved NW.  Lupe was soon standing in fog, light rain, and the chill E wind at Nebraska’s remote state high point, which featured a small monument, a black desk, and a handsome bench placed by the HighpointersFoundation.org.

At Panorama Point, Nebraska, Lupe’s 5th state high point. Photo looks NW.

Of course, the first thing to do was to check out the stone monument.

By the monument marking Nebraska’s state high point. Photo looks NW.
The monument inscription.

Next, Lupe went over to have a look at the world from the Highpointers bench.

Standing on the Highpointers bench, since it was rather wet for sitting on.
History-related plaque attached to the bench.

The world, at least this little chunk of it, looked foggy and damp, and was sorely lacking in the promised buffalo Lupe had come to see.

Come on, Looper, let’s go!

What?  Wait a minute, SPHP!  Where are all the buffalo?  I don’t see any!

I know it, but that’s the way it goes, Loop.  They’re probably somewhere out there in the fog, but we can’t stray too far from the RAV4 looking for them.  Not allowed.  Not to mention that it would be pretty easy to get lost.  Wouldn’t be a very fun night outdoors, either, that’s for sure.

But this is a state high point, and we just got here!  Aren’t you even going to sign us in at the registry?  It must be in that black desk, don’t you think?

Yeah, probably, but no!  Forget that!  Not going to stand here in the cold wind and miserable rain any longer.  Maybe we can come back sometime on a nicer day to sign in and see the buffalo?

SPHP wasn’t going to give in.  Reluctantly, Lupe hopped back into the RAV4.

About to leave lovely Panorama Point. Photo looks SE.

Will you at least promise me we really will come back to see the buffalo some day, SPHP?

Yes, I suppose so.  Sorry to have disappointed you this evening, Lupe.  Just bad luck.  You really will get to see them someday.  I promise.

And then, on the short drive out, a minor miracle occurred.  Suddenly, the last of the ground fog streamed by and the rain ended.  A strong cold wind still blew out of the E, but it was now possible to see.  Just S of the road there was a fence.  In the evening gloam beyond the fence there was a big wind farm in the distance.  Something else was out there, too.

SPHP!  Stop!  Stop!  There they are!  The buffaloes!

Out to see the buffaloes near Panorama Point.

Like magic, promise kept.  And at the end of a wonderful Dingo Vacation, yet another Dingo dream come true!

Near Panorama Point, Nebraska’s state high point, 5-22-21.

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