Days 30 & 31 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
8-29-17, 12:33 PM, at a pullout along N Palmer Fishhook Road – Awake again, surprisingly soon. Lupe was awake, too. Only 3.5 hours gone by since she had returned from her 25 hour “day” hike on the Reed Lakes trail to Lynx Peak (6,536 ft.) and back again.
The relatively short snooze had definitely done some good. Both Lupe and SPHP were feeling better. Better, but still tired. Back to sleep! Not for long, though. The next time Looper woke up, SPHP drove down to Palmer. Having fallen in the mud 4 times yesterday, SPHP searched for a laundromat. The rest of the day was taken up by a shower and adventures in laundry. Loopster snoozed, recuperating in the G6.
The day’s biggest events didn’t come until late evening. SPHP bought a whole roasted chicken at Fred Meyers. Lupe hadn’t eaten much during the day. Now she was famished. The Carolina Dog made short work of the chicken SPHP shared with her. Nothing left, but bones. Then it was a late evening walk in Palmer before hitting the hay again.
8-30-17 – The morning shot by. The weather in Palmer was decent. Overcast, but not raining or threatening to, with temps in the mid 50’s. Lupe and SPHP were sufficiently recovered from the Lynx Peak ordeal to consider something active again. Nothing too strenuous. Anything involving enough effort to get the blood flowing again would do. Crow Pass or Skilak Lookout might work. By noon, Lupe was on her way to Anchorage on Glen Highway No. 1.
S of Anchorage, Lupe and SPHP stopped at Beluga Point along Seward Highway No. 1. A gale was blowing out of the SW, roiling the muddy Turnagain Arm which appeared to be near high tide. The view to the SE in the direction of Girdwood was not at all encouraging. Clouds and mist hung over the mountains.
When Lupe arrived in Girdwood a little after 2:00 PM, a light rain was falling. The wind wasn’t a gale here, but a lively breeze was blowing. The air was damp and raw. Crow Pass was out. Too bad. SPHP wondered about the wisdom of even continuing on to the Kenai Peninsula and Skilak Lookout?
Lupe wanted to go. May as well. No better options came to mind. By 4:00 PM, the Carolina Dog was well into the Kenai Peninsula. Once beyond Cooper Landing, SPHP started watching for a L turn off Sterling Highway No. 1 onto Skilak Road. Shortly after making the turn, Lupe got her first look at Skilak Lake.
The weather certainly hadn’t improved much. The sky was more darkly overcast than back at Girdwood. At least it wasn’t raining, although it looked like it might at a moment’s notice. 5.5 miles from the Sterling Highway, SPHP found the Skilak Lookout trailhead. The parking lot was vacant. Not a soul around.
A small sign on the other side of the road marked the start of the Skilak Lookout trail. The trail immediately disappeared into a gloomy forest.
The trail started off going down a short slope. Near the bottom, Lupe found an information station.
The first part of the Skilak Lookout trail wound generally S through a dense forest. Even though she had no views, Lupe was having plenty of fun sniffing around the forest floor close to the trail.
The Skilak Lookout trail was just the ticket for a first outing after the huge trek a couple of days ago on the Reed Lakes trail to Lynx Peak. Nice and easy. Less than 800 feet of elevation gain over more than 2 miles, most of it near the end.
Lupe trotted happily along gaining elevation slowly. There were no views until she got out of the forest upon reaching the Hidden Creek burn area mentioned back at the information station. SPHP then started to get occasional views, but Lupe still had none. The Hidden Creek burn had occurred way back in May, 1996. An awful lot of vegetation had grown up since then.
The Skilak Lookout trail appeared seldom traveled. Long stretches were overgrown with vegetation. Other sections were quite muddy. Hardly surprising, since it seemed to rain almost every day in Alaska. Lupe was getting sprinkled on every so often here, too. Fortunately, the showers were light and didn’t last long.
Lupe was at least a third of the way along the trail before she caught a glimpse of hills ahead. Skilak Lookout had to be somewhere up among those hills!
Nearing the hills, Lupe came across fresh evidence American Dingoes weren’t the only ferocious predators in the area.
5 minutes before coming to the bear scat, Lupe had found a squirrel to bark at. Perhaps that had been a good thing? Maybe the bear was so frightened by the sound of an approaching American Dingo it had fled? At any rate, SPHP was glad Loopster had given that squirrel a proper barking. No bear was seen, though the lush vegetation could have been hiding one almost anywhere.
The last part of the Skilak Lookout trail was steep and slick. SPHP had a hard time maintaining traction on the mud. Dense stands of bushes and small trees crowded the trail, so staying right on the path was about the only option. SPHP used branches for assistance, and began to wonder if anything at all could be seen from the top of Skilak Lookout?
The steep section was short. Lupe was soon up above it. The Carolina Dog quickly came to a small, exposed rocky ridge. SPHP needn’t have feared. Lupe had a great view of the E part of Skilak Lake! Now that she could finally see, Looper wasn’t all that thrilled about it. A cold 25 mph wind swept up the ridge from across the lake.
The top of Skilak Lookout was only a few hundred feet away from the first good viewpoint. A small stand of old evergreens stood slightly W of the true summit. Their windswept appearance provided proof positive that the current strong wind sweeping up from across Skilak Lake was nothing out of the ordinary.
At Skilak Lookout’s true summit, Lupe found a small rock outcropping and an unimpressive cairn. Loop didn’t spend much time here. Several rock outcroppings closer to the lake provided better viewpoints.
From the rock outcroppings, Lupe had excellent views of Skilak Lake to the E and S, however the views to the W were disappointing. Skilak Lake is big. Most of the lake was off to the W or SW, yet very little of the western part of the lake could be seen. Other hills were in the way.
A slightly lower hill to the SW was positioned where it might provide a more panoramic view of Skilak Lake. Several different paths started off in that direction. Lupe tried them all, but none of them went anywhere. They all dead ended or circled back into each other.
If a decent trail had actually gone to the lower hill, Lupe would have taken it. However, it was getting late and charging off trail into dense vegetation seemed foolhardy. The weather was questionable, and no telling where that bear had run off to. Lupe and SPHP gave up on the idea. After all, this was supposed to be an easy day!
The wind soon drove Lupe away from the best viewpoints. They were too exposed. Loop and SPHP retreated back to the true summit, at least somewhat out of the wind. In 2016, on a much nicer day, Lupe had taken the Skyline Trail to the Mystery Hills. The views from there had been even better. Could Lupe see the Mystery Hills from here? SPHP spotted a long high ridge off to the NNE.
Yes, Lupe could see the Mystery Hills from Skilak Lookout! It was fun to think about that day over a year ago now. Loop and SPHP sat on the ground at the summit of Skilak Lookout huddled together for warmth.
Clouds and several large patches of blue sky sailed swiftly by. A small flock of crows came flying on the wind. For a few minutes, the crows circled above Skilak Lookout playing games with each other. Together they plunged earthward before soaring and swirling back into the wild blue heavens. The breeze soon carried them out of sight.
15 minutes at the summit, then the sky suddenly looked ominous over by the Skilak River delta off to the SE. Mountains were disappearing in an approaching dark cloud. Time for action! Rain was clearly on the way. Better get with it. Maybe Lupe could beat the rain back to the G6?
SPHP slipped and fell in the mud on the steep part of the trail shortly after leaving Skilak Lookout. No damage done. Puppy, ho! Onward!
Hurry, hurry, all the way. Lupe didn’t beat the rain, but it wasn’t as bad as it had appeared. Showers came and went. Loopster arrived damp, but not soaked, back at the G6. English muffins and summer sausage for dinner, then SPHP drove to the W end of Skilak Road. Due to highway construction, flagmen were preventing traffic from entering the Sterling Highway.
Information posted near the junction showed a map of the area. A fairly good-sized lake was close by. A short side road led to it. It was getting dark. Maybe Lupe could hang out there tonight?
No one here. No facilities, only a large turnaround next to the lake. SPHP parked the G6. Bottenintnin Lake was big, but shallow. Water lilies extended far out from shore. Another side road left the turnaround. The American Dingo and SPHP explored it. Loop sniffed out a few dispersed camping sites. None were occupied. The side road soon ended. Perfect!
Skilak Lookout had been fun! It had been an easy half day, which was all Lupe and SPHP had really been up for. The weather could have been better, but Lupe did get to Skilak Lookout, and she did get to see Skilak Lake. Nature doesn’t give guarantees. You take what you can get.
Tomorrow was another roll of the dice. Maybe Lupe would get lucky? Dark now. Time to rest up. Better be ready, in case she did.
Day 29 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
6:47 AM, 37°F, Skyscraper Mountain pullout off N Palmer Willow Road near Hatcher Pass – Yesterday evening’s lucky stars kept their promise! Clear and calm. An absolutely fabulous day for the Reed Lakes trail and an attempt on mighty Lynx Peak. Lupe had promised to take care of any wildcats along the way. All SPHP had to do was manage to struggle up the mountain. If SPHP could do it, so could the American Dingo.
The turn off N Palmer Fishhook Road onto Archangel Road was only a few miles away. The G6 hit 100,000 miles on the 2.5 mile long stretch on Archangel Road to the Reed Lakes trailhead. After breakfast, paying the $5.00 daily parking fee, and final preparations, Lupe was on her way. (8:08 AM, 35°F)
Archangel Road continued across Archangel Creek from where the G6 was parked. Lupe trotted across the bridge. Archangel Road veered off to the L. Lupe kept going straight, passing few more parking spots on this side of the creek before reaching the Reed Lakes trail.
The first part of the Reed Lakes trail was a snap. The path was wide, smooth, and level. The trail stayed W of Reed Creek, and somewhat above it. Lupe was traveling through a long valley leading toward a headwall 1.5 miles away. The valley gradually curved from N to NE.
Shortly before reaching the headwall, Loopster came to several good wooden bridges over a couple of creeks. First she crossed Glacier Creek. Another bridge took her over Reed Creek.
After crossing the creeks, Lupe saw a sign about beaver ponds. The ponds were lower in the valley, not far from the base of the headwall. A side trail led down to them. Lupe stayed on the main Reed Lakes trail.
The trail began to climb steadily. Soon Lupe was ascending a series of switchbacks. The Reed Lakes trail was no longer a wide, smooth path. The switchbacks ultimately led Loop to higher ground toward the N end of the headwall.
Above the headwall, the terrain leveled out quite a bit. This area was wilder and rockier than the lower valley had been. At first, the trail was still a good single track easy enough to follow. The trail headed for a narrow gap about 0.25 mile away.
As Lupe approached the narrow gap, the Reed Lakes trail disappeared. The gap was full of large boulders. Some were as big as cars or even trucks. Scrambling over the huge rocks was a time-consuming process. Underneath it all, Reed Creek could often be heard and sometimes seen.
Lupe worked her way past the boulders taking whatever route seemed expedient. Although there were few indications of where the trail was supposed to be, it was clear Looper had to get through this gap.
The last obstacle Lupe had to get by was a huge boulder next to Reed Creek. Once she was beyond this boulder, she had effectively made it past the gap. The Reed Creek trail reappeared, and the terrain was no longer littered with boulders. Lupe followed the trail N on the W side of Reed Creek.
The Carolina Dog was now in a gorgeous mountain valley. Crystal clear Reed Creek flowed smoothly through shallow ponds in a nearly level area. Between ponds the stream rippled down gentle slopes. Lush light green vegetation grew near the creek. The lower mountain slopes were green, too, highlighted by stands of bright red plants.
Lupe and SPHP lingered in this gorgeous area before pressing on. When Lupe did continue, the trail began climbing steadily again at a moderate pace. 0.75 mile from the narrow boulder-strewn gap, Lupe reached the top of a rise. Nearby, tucked at the foot of a towering mountain, was the most exquisite lake ever!
The astonishing lake was mirror smooth. The surface displayed an amazing translucent turquoise color so clear, and so perfectly reflecting the surrounding mountains at the angle from which Lupe first glimpsed it, the lake appeared ethereal. Yet the incredible, nearly invisible lake was undeniably there, a gem among gems, a wonder among wonders!
Lupe had reached Lower Reed Lake.
Lower Reed Lake was practically invisible at the angle from which Lupe first saw it, but as she followed the trail N to higher ground near the lake’s W shore, the surface became less translucent and displayed a more brilliant turquoise color.
The trail climbed steadily as it went past Lower Reed Lake. Beyond the lake, the terrain steepened, and the trail angled NW. Here Lupe entered a realm of waterfalls. The roaring waterfalls plunging toward Lower Reed Lake only heightened the awesome impact of the magnificent mountain display.
The last waterfall Lupe came to was the highest and most spectacular! When Loop reached the top of this waterfall, she had a final fabulous view of Lower Reed Lake from more than 300 feet above.
Once Lupe reached the top of the highest waterfall, a more level valley again greeted her as she continued on the Reed Lakes trail toward still unseen Upper Reed Lake. At first the trail closely followed Reed Creek as it slowly turned E, but eventually was some distance N of it.
For the first time today, Lupe could see Lynx Peak(6,536 ft.). The sight was daunting. Whether the American Dingo would have to tangle with wildcats, or not, SPHP immediately feared Lupe would never make it to the top of Lynx Peak. The mountain looked more rugged and challenging than anything the Carolina Dog and SPHP were used to taking on.
May as well keep going, though. Even if Lynx Peak was a lost cause, Lupe still wanted to see Upper Reed Lake.
Upper Reed Lake isn’t much more than a mile beyond the lower lake. Lupe was perhaps a little more than 4 miles from the trailhead when the upper lake came into view. Upper Reed Lake with Lynx Peak towering beyond it was certainly an impressive sight! However, as beautiful as it was, Upper Reed Lake, though larger, didn’t seem quite as spectacular as Lower Reed Lake had been.
When Lupe reached Upper Reed Lake, it was time for a break. While Lupe relaxed and had Taste of the Wild, SPHP had a bite to eat, too. A couple from Georgia, who had briefly caught up with SPHP a little before Lower Reed Lake, but had fallen behind again, soon reappeared. Upper Reed Lake was as far as they were going, so they also stopped for lunch.
Tom couldn’t believe Lupe intended to climb Lynx Peak. No trail existed. How was she going to get up there? Lynx Peak looked rugged.
How, indeed? SPHP was wondering the same thing. Maybe Loopster should just forget about Lynx Peak? SPHP described to Tom what looked like the only possible route. Lupe would go up long boulder fields aiming for the lower W (L) end of a dark ridge where the mountain was solid rock. The dark ridge appeared to be partially concealing a ramp or gully just behind it. This gully might provide a steep path up to a small lone patch of snow seen high on the mountain.
Above the snow, SPHP simply didn’t know what might be possible. Lupe would still need to gain several hundred feet of elevation to reach the summit. The terrain above the snow looked very steep, but maybe the Carolina Dog could find a way to the top? Trip reports SPHP had read on Lynx Peak seemed to match up with this plan to some degree. None of the reports had mentioned any technical climbing, but it was hard to tell if this was the route others had used.
Tom was skeptical. He wasn’t the only one.
By the time the Georgians left Upper Reed Lake to head back down the trail, it was already 1:00 PM. If Lupe was going to climb Lynx Peak, she had better get on with it. A trail continued E along the N shore of Upper Reed Lake toward the base of Lynx Peak(6,536 ft.). Looper and SPHP followed this trail part way, but left it well before getting past the lake. Lanes of vegetation on the slope N of the lake appeared to offer a potentially easier start up than heading directly for the boulder fields.
The early climbing maneuver proved unhelpful. From below, it had looked like more level terrain might exist higher up. SPHP hoped Lupe would find a relatively easy route closer to Lynx Peak. The terrain did level out to a degree, but the whole area was nothing but rock. Boulder fields all the way! It would have been better to have stuck with the path down by Upper Reed Lake however far it went.
Well, it wasn’t all boulder fields all the way, but close to it. Lupe finally did come to small patches of vegetation, but nearly this entire route was simply a long, slow boulder hop. The good news was that Loop now had a better view of the steep gully or ramp leading to the patch of snow. Though steep, it did appear possible to go that way.
Loop traveled E gaining only a little elevation. Eventually she was close enough to Lynx Peak to turn N. She headed up the slope leading to the lower end of the gully hidden by the dark ridge. The American Dingo climbed and climbed. She succeeded in reaching the start of the gully.
The gully was even steeper and full of broken rock, but Lupe found she could continue higher. Loop managed to get above all the obstacles she encountered. The patch of snow was somewhere higher up, beyond the end of the gully, but wasn’t visible yet.
When Lupe was almost as high as the ridge separating Upper Reed Lake from the Bomber Glacier, it was time for another look around.
SPHP consulted the topo map. The lowest part of the ridge separating Upper Reed Lake from the Bomber Glacier was at 5,500 feet elevation. Loop was almost even with that. She still had more than another 1,000 feet to go to the summit of Lynx Peak!
It was 4:00 PM already. 3 hours had gone by since Lupe had left Upper Reed Lake. Clearly, at the pace SPHP had been going, Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the summit and back down before dark.
So what do ya think, Looper?
Oh, it’s the same old thing! I’m all worked up about defending you from all the wildcats on Lynx Peak, but we get here and there’s nary a lynx anywhere in sight. Don’t know what I was thinking. Happens every time. We go to Caribou Mountain, and there aren’t any Caribou. Elk Mountain, no elk. Cathedral Mountain, no cathedral. Humans name things completely at random, don’t they?
Well, we can’t name every mountain Rock Mountain, that would be too confusing. So, maybe there was a lynx here once upon a time, and maybe there wasn’t. It’s still a cool name for a mountain. Anyway, that’s not what I meant to ask you. The question is, are you willing to keep going, or not? I don’t know if we will get back by dark the way things are looking.
We did see a deer on Deer Mountain once though, if I remember right.
Loop! Forget about the lynxes for a minute. Do you want to keep going to the summit of Lynx Peak even though we might not make it down by dark?
Do we have to? This mountain is kind of scary steep, don’t you think? I don’t like it much.
No, we don’t have to, but I can about guarantee we will never have this chance again. Lynx Peak is a glorious peak – higher than any other you’ve ever climbed in Alaska. Maybe we can, and maybe we can’t get to the top, but at this moment we still have the opportunity to try. Are you game or not? It’s now or never, Loop!
Oh, I suppose. I can see and sniff well enough in the dark. How are you going to manage, though, SPHP?
With the headlamp or the flashlight, if necessary. Alright then, let’s see if we can get there. Puppy, ho! Onward!
Up, up, up! Lupe led the way. SPHP was the holdup, of course, but went as fast as possible. The chute or ramp or gully, or what ever you want to call it was even steeper than before, but Loop was still making progress. Finally, SPHP paused for yet another breather. Looking around, there it was – the snowbank! Lupe was already a little above it. She’d past it a little to the N.
Still a few hundred feet to go. The views were so fearsome, even Lupe was getting nervous. She begged SPHP to stop and pet her. SPHP did, but never for more than a minute or two. Nothing had stopped the American Dingo yet. On the strength of each brief reassurance, Lupe continued higher.
Loop finally reached a ridgeline. The was Lynx Peak’s upper SW ridge. Large rocks covered with black lichens dominated the area. Fortunately Looper is a good scrambler. She climbed NE along the ridge. SPHP followed as fast as possible. The ridge wasn’t nearly as steep as what Lupe had already come up, and soon started to level out even more. The top of the mountain couldn’t be much farther away.
Lupe reached the summit ridge. Perhaps 150 to 200 feet long, it was quite level, but rough. The highest rocks were opposite from where Lupe came up at the far N or NE end. The Carolina Dog made her way over there. She’d done it! Lupe stood on the highest rocks atop mighty Lynx Peak(6,536 ft.)!
After photos at the summit, Looper wanted to relax. She found as comfy a spot as she could to lay down. While Loop rested, SPHP surveyed the tremendous views in all directions. One of the most interesting views was looking more than 1,000 feet down on the Bomber Glacier.
The Knik Arm of the Pacific Ocean off Cook Inlet could be seen far to the SW. SPHP could identify Hatch Benchmark(4,811 ft.) where Lupe had been only yesterday, as well as Government Peak(4,781 ft.).
The 360° views from Lynx Peak were simply stupendous!
Unfortunately, Lupe wasn’t going to be able to rest long. A lot of time had ticked by. It was at least late, late afternoon already. Furthermore, the morning’s sunny skies had vanished. Yesterday evening’s lucky stars had kept their promise for a nice day today, but a repeat performance didn’t seem likely.
Even so, it was hard to pull oneself away from these glorious sights!
After her rest, Lupe sprang back to life. She was clearly feeling better. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was ready to report in from mighty Lynx Peak.
After 30 minutes on the summit of Lynx Peak, it really was time to go. What? Something like 3 hours before the sun would set? Looked like it. Seemed like that ought to be time enough to at least get back to Upper Reed Lake. Maybe not, though. Lupe had 2,300 feet of very steep, very rocky terrain to go down. SPHP was terrible at that sort of thing.
There was only one way to go, which was back down the way Lupe had come up. Looper and SPHP started down Lynx Peak’s SW ridge. SPHP couldn’t remember exactly where to leave the ridge to begin the descent to the patch of snow. Naturally, SPHP went too far before realizing the error. Nothing to do, but climb back up. Not good. Fortunately, Lupe didn’t have to regain too much elevation.
After leaving the ridge, SPHP was awfully slow! Down, down, trying to hurry, but be careful too. Loopster was nervous as rocks clattered down the long slopes. Facing the dramatic, massive elevation loss ahead was intimidating. Lynx Peak was pushing the limits of what the Carolina Dog was willing to do. Loopster begged SPHP to stop. She wanted to be held, comforted, petted. Many times SPHP did just that, but the stops had to be brief. Time was slipping away.
Lupe went by the patch of snow again, then down the long gully. The worst was over when she reached the lower end of the gully. Looper still faced nearly 1,300 feet of elevation loss on mostly steep terrain littered with rocks and boulders. Yet what was ahead wasn’t as frightening as what Lupe had already been through. Her confidence returned.
Lupe and SPHP left the gully heading down toward Upper Reed Lake. On and on. Light was failing. Unexpectedly, shortly before sunset, the sun briefly broke through the gray cloud cover to shine weakly on the highest portions of Lynx Peak’s SW ridge.
10 minutes later, sunlight had vanished from the ridge. A colorful sky lingered in the W, but soon faded as well. Loop continued her descent. Twilight turned black. Upper Reed Lake was gone. Everything was gone.
SPHP paused to put on the headlamp. It was small, it was weak, but it sufficed. Lupe sniffed around in the night, returning frequently to the edge of the gloom surrounding SPHP. The long descent continued. No stars. No moon. Nothing to go by except the tiny light and the need to get lower.
Progress was super slow. Black as midnight, it was no longer possible to pick out a best route. Whatever Lupe came to, she just had to deal with. Sometimes the terrain was fairly level, sometimes surprisingly steep. Rocks and boulder fields were everywhere.
And then, from the black void, a light! The little light was red at first, and looked surprisingly far away. Lupe saw it, too! The light changed to white, and scanned the area where Lupe and SPHP were. Had to be someone else with a headlamp somewhere down by the E end of Upper Reed Lake. That someone must have seen SPHP’s headlamp. For a few minutes, the light shined right at Loop and SPHP.
Then it went out.
Onward! Whoever that had been, they were still a lot lower than where Lupe was. Slowly, slowly SPHP picked a way down. Lupe continued her explorations, sniffing the air frequently. Who knew? Lynxes might be prowling around under cover of darkness.
Half an hour later the white light reappeared. Once again it scanned the mountain to rest upon Loop and SPHP. The light came and went several times. Finally a voice.
You, OK?
Yes. Thanks for asking.
Have enough food and water?
Out of food, but plenty of water. We’re fine.
You should be down to the lake before long.
Figured we must be getting close.
Are you camped down here?
No.
Where at then?
We’re heading out. On our way to the trailhead.
Silence. Then after a moment.
Now? Seriously?
Yes. We’re fine.
OK, then. Good luck! If you don’t need anything, I’m going to sleep.
We’re good, thanks! Appreciate your concern. Sweet dreams!
It still took longer to get to Upper Reed Lake than it seemed like it should have. At last, Lupe was on relatively level ground again. She found what appeared to be a faint trail. Even so, progress remained slow. The trail had a lot of rock. SPHP suspected Lupe must be very close to the shore of the lake, so close that SPHP feared accidentally walking straight into it. The night was so pitch black, the lake couldn’t be seen at all.
Shortly after the Carolina Dog reached invisible Upper Reed Lake, it started. Rain! Oh, joy. Last night’s lucky stars had only promised one nice day. Time was up! Loopsterella had stayed too long at the ball. Her luck had just run out. SPHP stopped long enough to put on the plastic rain poncho.
The rain began as only a few scattered drops, but Loopsterella was soon enduring a steady downpour. Once past Upper Reed Lake, the trail wasn’t so rocky anymore, but muddy instead. Loopsterella prowled around in the night, while SPHP splashed along the trail.
Visibility was bad. As the rain continued, the trail became harder to discern in the headlamp’s weak glow. Sometimes there was a single track. Other times there were 2 or 3 separate tracks. Sometimes it all simply disappeared. SPHP lost the way repeatedly. Loopsterella usually found it again without having to search too long.
The sound of running water came from everywhere. Rivulets poured down the mountainsides. When the roar became louder and the trail steepened, SPHP knew Loopsterella must have made it to the waterfalls above Lower Reed Lake. The steeper trail was bad news. Despite going super slowly and carefully, SPHP began to fall. The trail was so muddy and slick, traction gave way without warning.
The first 3 times SPHP fell, no real damage was done, except that the rain poncho was becoming progressively more ripped up. By the 3rd fall, the poncho was in tatters. Only the hood kept the rest of it from falling to the ground. A dry head was better than nothing, and much better than the complete drenching poor Loopsterella was enduring. She was soaked to the bone and cold, so cold to the touch.
On the 4th fall, SPHP landed awkwardly, painfully. Wrenched back. Loopsterella offered encouragement while SPHP sat in the mud trying to shake it off. Many sweet licks did the trick. After a few minutes, SPHP managed to stand again. It hurt, but SPHP could limp slowly onward.
An eternity went by. SPHP knew only that Loopsterella was still on the trail, still moving. She must have made it past Lower Reed Lake a while ago. It inevitably had to happen, and finally did. Loopsterella reached the gap. The gap full of huge boulders. Exactly as anticipated and feared, the trail vanished. The way forward was hidden in the night. On one side Loopsterella was hemmed in by gigantic boulders. On the other, by Reed Creek.
The creek was deep here. At least waist deep on SPHP. Way over the American Dingo’s head. Try fording that? Carrying a Dingo in the rain, in the dark, with a pack, already cold, weary, and injured without even being able to see the far side? Never! SPHP searched and searched, revisiting the same spots multiple times. No route could be found around the boulders. No way across the creek. Nothing!
Loopsterella had made it around this place somehow on the way to Reed Lakes, but SPHP couldn’t remember how she’d done it. If she could get past these massive boulders, the rest of the gap would still be challenging, but not as bad as this choke point.
SPHP finally decided it might be possible to climb up the narrow space between the two largest rocks. However, whatever was on the opposite side was hidden from view. Between the rocks, a scary deep opening dropped into a pool of dark water below the boulders. If Loopsterella fell into that black hole, she might not be able to get out. SPHP might not be able to rescue her, or get out of it, either.
Not much choice. Loopsterella would need help getting past the space between the boulders. SPHP climbed partway up and got wedged into position to help her. It was awkward, at best. Encouraged to come, Loopsterella refused. No! Uh, uh. Absolutely not! SPHP came back down. She was right. In any case, certainly no chance of success without the Carolina Dog’s cooperation.
Stuck then. No way forward. Nothing to do, but wait for dawn. Who knew how many hours that would be? SPHP sat cross-legged on a small patch of wet vegetation, back propped against a rock. Loopsterella curled up on SPHP’s lap. She was totally soaked and cold, but still not shivering. Sitting wasn’t going to be good. Moving had kept the blood moving and created warmth.
The rain ended as Loopsterella and SPHP sat together. That helped, but without movement SPHP was soon shivering anyway. Cold, and getting colder! Only SPHP’s lap was warm where Loopsterella, though cold and wet herself, functioned as an effective Dingo oven.
May as well save battery life. Off went the headlamp. In total darkness, SPHP stroked Loopsterella’s wet head. The long wait began.
Was it possible? After only 20 minutes, SPHP could see a vague outline of nearby rocks. Perhaps with the headlamp off eyes were adjusting to what had seemed to be utter darkness? 5 more minutes went by. No, that wasn’t true. It actually was getting lighter out. Night was ending. Dawn was on the way!
Soon it was light enough to see a way forward. SPHP shimmied over a boulder in the stream. Beyond it were more rocks to hop across. Loopsterella made it across on her own. Piece of cake! Moving again! Such a wonderful feeling.
The boulder fields in the gap were more extensive and harder to get through than SPHP remembered. Beyond them, SPHP suddenly saw a new threat. Someone was standing on a hillside overlooking the rest of the valley. Someone sternly motionless, and strangely dressed. A foreigner wearing an old style Chinese hat and a robe – a Chinese witch!
As Loopsterella proceeded toward the witch, SPHP limped along behind staring in fascination despite a sense of dread. Who? Why? It made no sense. Loopsterella took no notice of the witch. No. Not a witch. Only an illusion. Only rocks. Other figures appeared, though not as clearly. They were all illusions, all rocks. Must be losing it.
When it got bright enough, the illusions ceased. Loopsterella seemed recharged, the night’s ordeal behind her. The rain clouds were gone. Another nice day in store. The mountains were gorgeous! SPHP was oblivious to them. Just keep moving, keep following that curly tail.
8-29-17, 9:05 AM, Reed Lakes trailhead – Still wet, too tired to eat more than a little Alpo, Loopsterella, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, climbed onto her pile of blankets and drifted off to Dingo dreamland. Thanks to SPHP’s torpid pace, at 24 hours, 57 minutes she probably held the record now for the slowest day hike ever On the Reed Lakes Trail to Lynx Peak and a View of the Bomber Glacier.
She’d made it, though, all the way to the top of Lynx Peak. And if she had instead set the record for the fastest time, it wouldn’t have been any more memorable a feat.
Day 28 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
7:00 AM – Still foggy, but it was light out now. The fog didn’t seem as thick as it had been a few hours ago. Loopster was still snoozing after her big adventure going to Ermine Hill(2,700 ft.) and beyond yesterday up on K’esugi Ridge in Denali State Park. SPHP worked on catching up the trip journal.
When Lupe woke up, SPHP suggested going back to the Ermine Hill trail registration station, which was only a short stroll away through the drippy forest. Lupe welcomed the opportunity to get out and sniff around.
Yesterday, from higher up on Ermine Hill, Lupe had seen two people and a big brown dog down on the trail. They had been watching a black bear across a small lake, before ultimately turning and retreating back down the trail. Lupe had pressed on closer to where the bear was on her way to Peak3700, but hadn’t ever seen it again. SPHP was curious whether the people had written any comments about the bear in the registry.
The people had written some comments, surprising ones! Their dog’s name was Ollie. That wasn’t so surprising, but what they had written about the bear was. Ollie and his humans hadn’t seen a black bear, they’d seen 5 of them! A sow with 2 cubs, plus 2 more mature bears. No wonder they had retreated back down the trail! K’esugi Ridge had been crawling with bears! Despite roaming around up on K’esugi Ridge practically all day yesterday, Lupe and SPHP had only seen that one.
Even though the fog was slowly thinning, by mid-morning it was fairly certain that Lupe wasn’t going to get to see Denali(20,310 ft.) today. At the pace things were improving, the Alaska Range would never come into view. May as well move on. Lupe and SPHP left Denali State Park taking George Parks Highway No. 3 to Wasilla.
By mid-afternoon, after a couple of stops and going through Wasilla, Lupe was nearing Palmer on Glenn Highway No. 1. It was a beautiful day here, 65°F and fairly sunny. Traffic was backed up for miles. People were thronging in to the Alaska State Fair. The fair wasn’t anything Lupe could go see, but another option existed. There was time enough left in the day to climb Hatch Benchmark(4,811 ft.) from Hatcher Pass.
In 2016, Lupe had climbed nearby Skyscraper(4,825 ft.) from Hatcher Pass under less favorable conditions. She had succeeded then, and Hatch Benchmark should be even easier. The April Bowl trail goes all the way from Hatcher Pass up to Hatch Benchmark passing April Bowl on the way. The trail is only 1.1 miles long, and elevation gain required is only 925 feet, comparable to what Skyscraper had been.
2.25 miles N of Arctic Avenue in Palmer, SPHP turned L (W) on N Palmer Fishhook Road (Willow Fishhook Road on some maps). 19 miles later, Lupe arrived at Hatcher Pass. Not everyone had gone to the Alaska State Fair. The pass was packed with people and vehicles. SPHP was lucky enough to grab a parking spot for the G6 at the same little pullout where Lupe had started for Skyscraper last year. (4:37 PM, 58°F)
A short, dusty walk W along the busy gravel road brought Looper to the official top of Hatcher Pass. The April Bowl trail started right across the road from the Hatcher Pass monument. The trail began by immediately switchbacking up a hillside of light green vegetation.
The switchbacks soon brought Lupe close to a small stream tumbling down a ravine. Loop helped herself to a drink. The trail began climbing more steeply up the E side of the ravine.
As Lupe drew near April Bowl, the trail leveled out to some degree. The summit of Hatch Benchmark came into view.
April Bowl contains 4 separate ponds. Lupe soon reached the first pond where the stream originated. A second pond was in view close to the first one. The trail curved around the E side of the closest pond heading for the long ridge leading to the summit of Hatch Benchmark.
At April Bowl, Lupe had gained over 300 feet of elevation from the start of the trail. She had another 600 feet of elevation gain to go following the high ridge above April Bowl leading to Hatch Benchmark.
Lupe had been meeting many people and dogs on the way up, but by the time she was getting close to Hatch Benchmark, fewer hikers had come this far. Only a small group of people could be seen ahead up at the summit.
5 or 6 people were at the top of Hatch Benchmark when Lupe and SPHP arrived. They remained only a short while before heading back down. Lupe had Hatch Benchmark all to herself.
The summit area was triangular in shape. It wasn’t particularly large, but was level and roomy enough to walk around on easily. The two highest points were a couple of large rock outcroppings toward the N and SW separated by about 40 feet. SPHP thought the N high point was the true summit, but they really weren’t much different in elevation.
Views of the surrounding Talkeetna Range were magnificent!
No one else came up the mountain after Lupe, perhaps because it was getting on toward evening. However, the weather was holding up just fine. Temperatures were in the mid 50’s °F. No wind or precipitation. Lupe and SPHP lingered enjoying the views. SPHP searched around for the actual Hatch survey benchmark, but found nothing.
Off to the S, beyond Palmer and the Matanuska River valley, Lupe could see a couple of peaks in the Chugach Mountains she had climbed back in 2016, Lazy Mountain(3,740 ft.) and Pepper Peak(5,381 ft.). SPHP recognized some other peaks the Carolina Dog had never been to, as well.
Lupe was happy to cooperate, and it was so beautiful out that SPHP took lots of photos.
Lupe did great, but she eventually got bored with the photo shoot. She decided to take a break while SPHP made do without her.
Some of the most spectacular peaks that could be seen from Hatch Benchmark were toward the NE. With the telephoto lens it was possible to get a fairly good look at them. SPHP didn’t know the names of those peaks, but maybe they could be figured out later by comparing photos with maps?
The time came to leave Hatch Benchmark. No one else had come up the mountain. Lupe was ready for a few more photos before departing.
Loopster and SPHP enjoyed the easy trek back to Hatcher Pass. Lupe met far fewer people than on the way up. Everyone was heading down.
Not many vehicles were around when Lupe reached Hatcher Pass again. (7:35 PM) The crowds were gone. The few people who still remained were all busy getting ready to depart. Looper visited the Hatcher Pass monument.
The whole trek from Hatcher Pass to April Bowl and Hatch Benchmark had only taken 3 hours, even with all the loitering Lupe and SPHP had done up at the summit. Loopster was right, it was nice to have an easy time where everything went smoothly for once.
Before long, Lupe and SPHP were alone at Hatcher Pass. Loopster was staying for the show that everyone else was going to miss.
The show was a good one, with beautiful colors. Later there was a half moon, and even a few stars. With all the clouds and fog in Alaska, Lupe hadn’t seen stars in, well, it couldn’t really be forever, but it seemed like a long time. Maybe the stars were a good omen for tomorrow?
Oh, I think you’re right, SPHP! Those are our lucky stars! Tomorrow will be another great day. Just leave all the wildcats to me! I get along fine with cats.
Wildcats? What wildcats, Loop?
The wildcats on the mountain we’re going to, silly! Passels of ’em! Don’t worry, though. I’m always good with cats. They can’t help it that they’re handicapped. It’s no fault of theirs. They were born that way. These lynx wildcats are big, though, so it will be trouble if you rile them up. Just leave ’em alone, and let me deal with them.
I’m not expecting to see any wildcats Loop, handicapped or not. What makes you think we will, or that they will be handicapped if we do?
Oh, for pity sake! Have our plans changed again? Haven’t you been saying we are going to Lynx Peak tomorrow? Didn’t we see a lynx shortly before we left the Dalton Highway a few days back? Wasn’t it a big wildcat? Won’t lynxes be swarming all over Lynx Peak? Of course, they will!
This is starting to sound a lot like Jack Squirrel Peak, Loop. Remember how you got all worked up about the enormous jack squirrels, and then it turned out there weren’t any?
That was terrible, SPHP! A completely awful, sickening tragedy! Don’t you remember why the jack squirrels weren’t there, though? They all burned up! Lynx Peak won’t be burned up. How could it be? It rains on us multiple times practically every day here in Alaska.
That’s true enough. Couldn’t light Lynx Peak on fire, if we tried. Well, I suppose we might see a lynx. Must have been one on Lynx Peak one time or another. Why would it be handicapped, though?
Don’t you humans know anything about animals, SPHP? It would be handicapped because it’s a cat! That’s what cats are! They aren’t good at being members of the pack. They don’t understand how to hunt together and help the pack. They just want to be fed and adored for doing nothing, then left alone. They’re perfectly fine by themselves, and have no social skills other than the ability to train humans to be their servants. Why do you fall for that anyway?
I suppose it’s all the purring, Looper. A purring kitty is hard to resist.
Oh, yeah. Their one magic trick. That noise isn’t natural, though, SPHP. Nothing else does that. Suspicious, don’t you think? Something’s not right about it. Makes me wonder if they aren’t really handicapped? Maybe they made some deal with someone they shouldn’t have ever been dealing with in the first place. Maybe if their purrers were exorcised, they would be normal dogs again?
Normal dogs again? Cats aren’t dogs!
Sure they are! Why, we had them in my family when I was born. We were all there, cats and dogs together! One big happy family. We got along fine. That’s why I understand cats so much better than you do. Cats are just a different sort of dog. Handicapped, like I said before.
Alright, whatever Looper. You win. I’m just going to hope for a nice day tomorrow like the lucky stars are predicting. You can deal with the passels of lynxes for us.
Good! Remember this – when we get to the lynxes, don’t do anything that makes them wag their tails. When us Dingoes and normal dogs wag our tails, it means we like you. When cats wag their tails, it means they are thinking about eating you. The faster and twitchier they wag them, the hungrier they are, too! So watch their tails.
Wonderful advice, I’m sure, Loopster. But I don’t think lynxes even have tails, or at least not much of one.
No tails? Even stranger than most cats then. They might be more dangerous than I thought. Just stay close, and try not to look like a big mouse.
Fine, fine, whatever you say. I ought to be able to manage that!