Lupe – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 324 – Line Camp Peak & Horse Trap Mountain (1-31-24)

7:59 AM, 28ºF, Cascade Falls, S of Hot Springs – Shadows were long, but the day already bright as the sun came peeping over the mountains. The steps leading down to Cascade Creek from the picnic ground were icy, forcing SPHP to use the railing for support. Reaching Cascade Falls, mist was rising into the chilly morning air from both the swimming hole, and the lukewarm stream tumbling into it.

Arriving early at **Cascade Falls**. Photo looks SW.

Beautiful! Love Cascade Falls, SPHP, but it’s still January! Kind of early in the season to go swimming, isn’t it?

Ha! No doubt, Loopster! Not too early to do a little wading, though.

As SPHP sat down and began removing boots and socks, the Carolina Dog appeared more concerned than convinced.

**Cascade Creek** immediately above the falls. Photo looks NNW.

Even though the water wasn’t all that cold or deep, Lupe was reluctant to follow SPHP into the stream. The creek bottom was smooth and firm, but uneven with sudden drops of a foot or more, enough to freak the American Dingo out a bit, causing her to freeze up midstream.

Just follow me, Loop. It’s not deep at all, if you take the exact same route.

After fording Cascade Creek, SPHP sat down and began putting socks and boots back on again.

Aren’t we staying here at the creek like we’ve always done before, SPHP?

Nope. Cascade Falls may be a great place to hang out during the summer, Looper, but we’re actually here to visit Line Camp Peak (4,530 ft.) today.

Line Camp Peak? Never heard of it, SPHP.

That’s the name I just gave it, Loop, because the topo map shows a Line Camp 0.33 mile SW of the summit. On Lists of John, it’s merely Peak 4535.

Oh, I get it! We’re back to tagging Lists of John peaks with a minimum of 300 feet of prominence. What is a line camp, anyway, SPHP?

Really don’t know, Loopster. If I had to guess, I’d think a temporary work camp near the construction of some sort of road or utility. Way out here, maybe a pipeline or powerline. With any luck, maybe we’ll find out today.

Scrambling up the steep, heavily forested bank on the W side of Cascade Creek through pines, junipers, and bushes, the terrain leveled out after a 40 foot climb. Another steep-sided ravine full of pines and junipers was now to the L with grasslands visible above both sides.

On the **NE side of Falls Canyon**. Photo looks NW.

This big ravine is Falls Canyon, Loop, but we’re on the wrong side. We’re going to have to find a place to get across.

Although Falls Canyon was only 40 feet deep, Lupe was above a cliff with standing water below it. Heading NW, there was already a nice view of Devils Slide Mountain (3,960 ft.) back to the NE.

Beginning the search for a way across **Falls Canyon**. Photo looks WNW.

**Devils Slide Mountain** (L). Photo looks NE.

After only 0.15 mile, the canyon divided. Falls Canyon turned N, while Mike Canyon continued NW. Lupe easily descended into Falls Canyon and climbed back out again here, but now had to cross Mike Canyon, as well. Another 0.1 mile NW got her to a good spot to enter Mike Canyon.

Exploring **Mike Canyon**. Photo looks E.

The terrain in the canyon was rolling and grassy, with a few inches of snow lingering along the more shaded SW side. Although the SW slope wasn’t a cliff, it was still mighty steep. Fortunately, Lupe didn’t have to sniff her way much farther up the canyon to find a spot where it was possible to scramble up and out, entering a region of typical western South Dakota prairie.

S of Mike Canyon now, the prairie rose in a long, gradual climb as Lupe headed W. Didn’t take her long to notice that grass wasn’t the only thing growing out here. The Carolina Dog’s nemesis was here, too.

Yeouch! SPHP, there’s cactus!

Lots of it, too. Progress slowed as Lupe insisted upon playing the cactus game. Remaining in one spot while SPHP scouted ahead, Lupe refused to budge until SPHP gave the signal that the route was cacti-free.

Playing the cactus game. **Devils Slide Mountain** (L). Photo looks E.

In some places, the cactus was so thick that carrying Lupe was the only way to keep going.

I sure hope it isn’t very far to Line Camp Peak, SPHP!

It’s a bit of a stroll, Loopster. Nearly 7 miles from Cascade Falls.

7 miles! We’ll never make it, SPHP! You can’t carry me that far, and I’m not walking barepaw through cactus infested fields for any 7 miles. You try it! It’s not fun.

Ahh, but there’s a road that goes nearly the entire way, Loop. We’ll soon come to it.

A road? Why didn’t you say so? That’s different, SPHP.

Continuing W, the terrain finally leveled out. From the top of a small rise, the Cheyenne River valley was now in sight off to the SW.

**Cheyenne River valley** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Alright! Almost there, Looper. USFS Road No. 647 should be just down this little slope about where the trees start. In fact, I think I see it.

Reaching the road put an end to the American Dingo’s cactus concerns. Turning NW again, her road hike commenced.

On **USFS Road No. 647**. Photo looks NW.

No. 647 was a scenic, easy march. Trending NW for miles through both prairie and open pine forests, the road steadily gained elevation. Soon Lupe was high enough to see Nebraska way off to the S.

Among the pines of the open forest. Photo looks NNE.

**Nebraska** on the distant horizon. Photo looks SSE.

The Black Hills had been very warm for January recently, and today was no exception. The morning was warming up fast as the sun climbed into the cloudless sky. Very little snow remained, but Lupe was happy to find enough melting in the shade here and there to eat for a bit of moisture whenever she got thirsty.

Nothing happened on this pleasant journey until, approaching HP4040 after 2 miles on No. 647, the American Dingo spotted movement ahead. A lone horse with a thick black mane was running around up here. The horse trotted through the fields for a few minutes before disappearing into the forest, evidently on its way to some unknown destination.

Approaching **HP4040** (R). Photo looks NW.

“**Black Mane**“, the handsome horse of **HP4040**.

The road didn’t go all the way to the top of HP4040, instead flattening out as it turned W for a short stretch before losing 50 feet of elevation winding NW down into the uppermost reaches of Cedar Canyon.

About to descend into the **upper reaches of Cedar Canyon** (L). Photo looks WNW.

The uphill trek soon resumed as a somewhat steeper climb. Once out of Cedar Canyon, tablelands were in sight beyond Wildcat Canyon. Views of Wildcat Canyon improved as Lupe continued on.

**Tablelands** (Center) beyond the **Wildcat Canyon region**. Photo look W.

**Wildcat Canyon** (R). **Nebraska** on the horizon again. Photo looks S.

A level stretch led to yet another gradual climb, which topped out near HP4154. However, there were enough trees up here to block any distant views, at least from along the road.

Approaching **HP4154** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Beyond HP4154, more open territory provided a good look at the upper reaches of one of the branches of Wildcat Canyon. However, the views were even better just a little farther on, when the road swung over to the NE side of the long ridge it was following. Looking across Buck Canyon, quite a few peaks Lupe had once been to long, long ago were in sight.

**Upper end of Wildcat Canyon** (beyond Lupe). Photo looks WNW.

Oh my gosh, SPHP! There’s Roundtop Hill (4,469 ft.) and the Seven Sisters Range (4,420 ft.)!

Yup. And if you look down Buck Canyon, Loopster, you can see not only Devils Slide Mountain (3,960 ft.) a mile or so from where we started, but Flagpole Mountain (4,320 ft.) as well.

**Roundtop Hill** (L) and **Seven Sisters Range** (R) beyond **Buck Canyon**. Photo looks NE.

**Devils Slide Mountain** (L of Center) and **Flagpole Mountain** (R) in the distance. **Buck Canyon** (foreground). Photo looks SE.

Looks like we’ve come a long way already, SPHP.

Yeah, we’ve definitely made some progress, Loop. Still 1.5+ miles to Line Camp Peak, though.

For the next 0.67 mile, USFS Road No. 647 ran along the shady SW side of Buck Canyon, all mushy and wet with melting snow. After going up this incline, the rate of climb greatly diminished as the road turned W again for a little way before resuming its NW course. In this flat region, a large power line soon appeared ahead.

Heading up the **muddy stretch along the SW side of Buck Canyon**. Photo looks NNW.

Hey! This power line might be why the line camp is on Line Camp Peak, SPHP.

Don’t know, Loop. According to the map, the line camp is still 0.67 mile NW. Seems sort of far. Plenty of excellent space right here for a camp, if it was meant to support the construction of this power line.

Continuing NW past the power line, it wasn’t much farther to a fork in the road. Taking the R fork, Lupe headed N through a huge, very gently sloping field. Line Camp Peak’s summit was now only another 0.25 mile, hidden somewhere among the pines directly ahead.

On the grassy **summit plateau of Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks N.

However, something else caught Lupe’s attention. Over toward the W end of the field, a whole herd of horses was hanging out near the area where the line camp was supposed to be.

**Horses** near the **Line Camp region**. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Oh, I love horses, SPHP! Do you suppose they’re friendly? Maybe we should go see them? We can check out the line camp, too!

Whether friendly or not, let’s leave ’em be, Loop. The line camp mystery is of secondary importance. Let’s do what we came to do, first.

12:32 PM, 60ºF, Line Camp Peak (4,530 ft.) – Located near the NE end of the enormous summit plateau, Line Camp Peak’s true summit proved to be along a rocky, pine-covered, E/W running ridge that rose 10-15 feet above the immediately surrounding area. Only tree-broken views were available from the top, but a little SE of the summit, Lupe enjoyed a great view to the E across multiple canyons.

**Seven Sisters Range** (L) and **Devils Slide Mountain** (R) from **Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks E.

On one of the highest boulders of the **summit ridge**. Photo looks NNW.

Tree-broken views from the **summit ridge**. Photo looks SE.

A long march, but an easy one! Congratulations, Loopster, you’ve made it to Line Camp Peak! May I shake your paw?

Not all of it was as easy as you make it sound, SPHP! But, yes, go ahead, you may shake my cactus-stabbed paw. Gently, please!

For the last day of January, this was an extraordinary day. Although wind now sighed in the treetops, the breeze was only light and variable at ground level, and at a sunny 60ºF, the air was pleasantly warm. For a while, Lupe and SPHP relaxed on patches of grass near the true summit after sharing water and a chocolate coconut bar.

There’d already been a few brief water and Taste of the Wild breaks on the way here, and the American Dingo scarfed up some more as SPHP munched on an apple. Facing S toward the main part of the plateau, a glimpse of Nebraska was visible between the trees.

The **break spot** next to the true summit. Photo looks ESE.

**Nebraska** (L of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

Time ticked away as it always does.

Very nice here, isn’t it, Looper?

Absolutely, SPHP. I loved all the canyon views and seeing some of the peaks we haven’t been to in a long time on the way here, too.

Me, too, Loop. Getting to be 1:00 PM, though, and the days aren’t very long this time of year.

We’ve only been here half an hour, SPHP. You aren’t saying we have to leave already, are you? Can’t we at least stay for the rest of my traditional summit hour? Or maybe you’re wanting to spend the second half of it checking out the line camp? I’d do that.

Actually have something else in mind. Horse Trap Mountain (4,682 ft.) is only a little over a mile N of here. Been a long time ago, but remember how scenic it was up there, Loopster? Would be fun to return for a little while, if the skinny ridge leading to it is negotiable.

A chance to visit Horse Trap Mountain again, SPHP? Let’s do it!

Alright. We better get with it, though, Loop. Taking on Horse Trap means we’ll be getting back long after dark, even if we leave right now. However, before we go, stand on the true summit of Line Camp Peak here again for a minute. There’s kind of an interesting view showing that there’s a hollow spot beneath it.

Back on the true summit of Line Camp Peak. Photo looks NW.

1:01 PM – Setting out for Horse Trap Mountain, Lupe wandered W along Line Camp Peak’s little summit ridge, turning NW once it melted away in the forest. To SPHP’s surprise, the Carolina Dog quickly discovered an old road that went N, exactly the direction she needed to go.

A short descent led to a grassy bench, where a cluster of rocks along the NW edge promised a grand view of Hell Canyon. Going over to them, the view didn’t disappoint at all.

On the **grassy bench** at the **far N end of Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks NW.

**Hell Canyon** from the **N end of Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks WSW.

Wow! This is gorgeous, Loop! Love this kind of territory. Doesn’t look like “Hell” Canyon at all to me.

Heh. Beautiful enough, SPHP. Probably full of cactus, though!

From the far N end of this bench, Lupe’s next objective was in sight.

**Horse Trap Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

There it is in all its glory, SPHP! Horse Trap Mountain! Doesn’t look like a difficult climb, either, if we can get down to the saddle leading to it.

Fortunately, getting to the saddle was no problem. The ancient jeep trail Lupe had found wound down to an intersection with USFS Road No. 327, which ran E/W right over it.

Following the **old jeep trail** (L) down to the saddle leading to **Horse Trap Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

**HP4656** (Center) above the **upper reaches of Hell Canyon**. Photo looks N.

**HP4500** (Center) along **Line Camp Peak’s E ridge**. Photo looks ESE.

Crossing the saddle, the wind was 20 mph out of the W as Lupe started up Horse Trap Mountain’s S ridge. This fairly steep climb was actually a bit dangerous for the Carolina Dog due to a pair of parallel barbed wire fences running straight up the ridgeline, one of which was flat on the ground much of the way.

At one point, SPHP had to give the American Dingo a boost at a rocky spot, although Lupe could have gone around it, if necessary. Views were already marvelous from a couple of high points crossed during the 450 foot ascent. From the second one, Lupe had a terrific view of Horse Trap Mountain’s S face.

A band of limestone cliffs running along the upper rim appeared to have enough breaks in it to ensure a successful ascent.

Heading up Horse Trap Mountain’s S ridge. **Line Camp Peak** (L), **Hell Canyon** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**S face of Horse Trap Mountain** from **HP4550**. Photo looks N.

Nothing to it! As Lupe closed in on the S face, a readily discernable trail went right on up. From atop the rocks along the S rim, Lupe enjoyed a tremendous view of Falls Canyon with Devils Slide Mountain (3,960 ft.) and Flagpole Mountain (4,320 ft.) beyond, and the prairies of western South Dakota stretching to the edge of vision beyond them.

Approaching the **S rim of Horse Trap Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

**Falls Canyon** (Center), **Devils Slide Mountain** (L of Center), **Flagpole Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SE.

**HP4550** (L) along **Horse Trap Mountain’s S ridge**. **Line Camp Peak** (Center), **Hell Canyon** (R). Photo looks SSW.

2:16 PM, 57ºF, Horse Trap Mountain (4,682 ft.) – Lupe had come up at the lower S end of a huge, oval summit plateau covered with grass and scattered pines. Sloping gently up to the N, this plateau was ringed by a line of small cliffs around virtually the entire perimeter. Having been here once before, the Carolina Dog knew the true summit was along the opposite NNW edge.

Any preferences, SPHP? Want to go straight for the true summit, or circle around the perimeter where all the big views are?

Around the perimeter, Loopster. After all, the unobstructed views from this island in the sky are what make Horse Trap Mountain so special.

Clockwise, or counter-clockwise then, SPHP?

Your choice, Loop. Either way is fine with me.

Lupe chose clockwise. Within minutes she reached a particularly scenic overlook along the SW edge from rock formations providing a superb view of Line Camp Peak, lower Hell Canyon, and barren ridges to the W.

**Line Camp Peak** (L edge), **Hell Canyon** (L), and **barren tablelands** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Line Camp Peak** (L), **Hell Canyon** (Center), **tablelands** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Circling around to the NW edge, the upper reaches of Hell Canyon were in sight. The top of Parker Peak (4,848 ft.), the Fall River county high point, was also visible, sticking up behind them.

**Parker Peak** (L of Center) beyond **upper Hell Canyon**. Photo looks NW.

2:27 PM – The wind was only 5-10 mph out of the NW by the time Lupe reached the true summit of Horse Trap Mountain after a leisurely stroll around the W end of the plateau. A couple of photos atop the summit rock, the usual congratulatory pawshake, and it was time for a break.

At the **true summit of Horse Trap Mountain**. Photo looks NNW.

**Parker Peak** (R) from the **true summit**. Photo looks WNW.

Taking it easy on **Horse Trap Mountain**. **Parker Peak** (Center), **true summit rock** (R). Photo looks NW.

Hard to believe we’re here again after all these years, Loop! So glad we came! Horse Trap Mountain is every bit as fabulous as I remembered it.

Most definitely agree, SPHP! Easily worthy of a chocolate coconut bar, maybe 2 or 3!

Um, yeah. Only one left, Loopster, but I do have a duck jerky for you, too.

Both were eagerly accepted, along with Taste of the Wild and water, then Lupe laid her head down.

Mind if I snooze for a bit, SPHP?

Not at all, Looper. It’s already been a long day.

SPHP drank a strawberry Equate and chomped the last apple. Only the sound of the wind broke a perfect silence. Amazing, unspoiled territory of this remote part of the Black Hills laid in all directions.

A glimpse of Elk Benchmark (5,669 ft.) and Wildcat Peak (5,500 ft.) was far to the NW. Black Elk Peak (7,131 ft.) was but a distant blip to the N. SPHP peered into Hell Canyon. Gorgeous, but Lupe might be right. Maybe it was full of cactus?

After a short nap, the Carolina Dog woke up and accompanied SPHP on a stroll to other nearby viewpoints.

**Parker Peak** (L) again. Photo looks NW.

**Horse Trap Mountain summit plateau**. Photo looks SE.

3:15 PM, Horse Trap Mountain – The inevitable sad moment arrived.

About time to get back on the top rock, Loop.

Summit hour’s over already, SPHP?

Hate to say it, but yup, pretty quick now, Loopster.

At least we can still enjoy completing our circumnavigation of the summit plateau, SPHP.

Final moments on the **true summit of Horse Trap Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

A brief return to the true summit, and Lupe was on her way, this time circling around the E end of the plateau.

Leaving the true summit region. Photo looks E.

The views were grand going this way, too. All too soon, Lupe was back at the S end of the plateau, ready to start her descent along the S ridge.

**Falls Canyon** (L & Center) from the E edge. **Devils Slide Mountain** (L) and **Flagpole Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

**Roundtop Hill** (Center in foreground). Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

Back at the S end. **HP4550** and **Line Camp Peak** (L of Center), **Hell Canyon** (R). Photo looks S.

4:43 PM, 55ºF – The wind had died completely, and the rapidly setting sun was already on the horizon by the time the American Dingo reached the summit of Line Camp Peak (4,530 ft.) again. She wouldn’t get much of a rest break at all here this time around.

Sunset from the **summit of Line Camp Peak**. Photo looks W.

Enjoy it while you can, Looper. 10 minutes, then we’re moving on.

What about the line camp, SPHP? Are we ever going to check it out?

Yup. That’s why we’re in a rush. Going to be too dark to see anything, if we don’t get over there pretty quick.

The last rays of sunshine were filtering through the trees as Lupe headed SW across the big field where the horses had been earlier in the day. No sign of them now. SPHP overshot the turn W to the line camp. Lupe was well on her way to HP4509 before SPHP realized the error.

Doubling back in haste, dusk was deepening among the pines when the Carolina Dog reached the location marked as the line camp on the map. Nothing here. No towers, sheds, shacks, or other structures at all, only a few pieces of metal quietly rusting away in the tall grass.

So what makes this a line camp, SPHP?

No idea, Loop. Only our cartographer knows for sure. Had no idea what to expect from a line camp, and still don’t, except maybe not much at all.

Exploring farther along the N edge of the point W of the line camp, trees hid the views, except from one spot where Lupe caught a final glimpse of a familiar sight.

**Horse Trap Mountain** (L) from **W of the Line Camp**. Photo looks NNE.

And that was it. The return march back along USFS Road No. 647 was even easier now going downhill. Lupe barked at a small plane that flew almost directly overhead while there was still light in the sky. However, it wasn’t long before the tiny flashlight had to come out.

On this black, moonless night, the Milky Way was stunningly bright. Rising in the SE, Orion was directly ahead. Back to the N, the Big Dipper stood on end. Geese honked as they flew by unseen, and coyotes sang a wild, mournful chorus before silence reigned again. Many miles away widely dispersed lights revealed the locations of remote ranch homes.

Nearly 14 hours after leaving the RAV, Lupe forded Cascade Creek again, completely unfazed by the jet black water or ghostly mist rising from it.

Line Camp Peak and Horse Trap Mountain! What a magnificent day they had been! (9:55 PM, 36ºF)

**Line Camp Peak** from **Horse Trap Mountain**, Black Hills of South Dakota 1-31-24

Links:

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 317 – Minnesota Ridge to Greens Gulch (10-7-23)

10:31 AM, 57ºF – It was the 2nd day of Cousin Dixie, Uncle Joe, and Aunt Andrea’s stay at Hotel Lupe. As usual, once Andrea left to spend the day with Grandma; Joe, Dixie, Lupe, and SPHP had all piled into the RAV4. Now it was parked near the N end of USFS Road No. 203, a little S of the junction with No. 256.

Near the **N end of USFS Road No. 203**, aka **Minnesota Ridge Road**. Photo looks SSW.

Although signed as Minnesota Ridge Road, No. 203 wouldn’t actually get anywhere near the summit. Didn’t really matter, since today’s romp didn’t necessarily envision a peakbagging goal, anyway, although that was obviously an option. Greens Gulch was the chosen destination, an easy road hike all the way.

It was a beautiful, bright, warm early fall day, as everyone set off across a flat region heading SSE along No. 203. The road then began a gradual descent before bottoming out 0.5 mile from the RAV4 at a junction with No. 203.1B. Here, 5 month old Cousin Dixie was amazed to see large black animals roaming the forest.

Lupe knew what they were! Cows! For some reason these cows were wandering through the forest instead of hanging out in some grassy meadow. Dixie was keenly interested in this phenomenon, prompting Joe to leash her up lest any real excitement ensue. The cows themselves didn’t seem all that eager to make any non-bovine acquaintances, and hastily ventured off even deeper into the forest.

Dixie discovers **cows** (center). Photo looks S.

No. 203 wound E from here over a small rise, soon leading to a glimpse of the gently sloping N end of Minnesota Ridge (6,240 ft.). Beyond this view, the road dipped again heading SE into another stretch of forest.

A glimpse of the **N end of Minnesota Ridge** (Center). Photo looks SE.

Another nicely shaded stretch of **USFS Road No. 203**. Photo looks SE.

Before long, the road was regaining elevation again as it broke out of the forest into a giant meadow dotted with aspens sporting yellow leaves. A larger herd of black cows was sensibly busy grazing in this field. Most of these cows were far enough away to pay little attention to Lupe and her new Aussie Shepherd cousin side-kick.

Cows grazing on the **NW slopes of Minnesota Ridge**. Photo looks E.

The road turned S, and flattened out. A lone ghoul tree stood ominously in this area. Lupe went over to investigate. In broad daylight, the ghoul tree didn’t seem that scary, but Halloween was only a few weeks away. No telling what frightening events might take place here then!

Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) was now in sight nearly 5 miles back to the N.

By the **ghoul tree**. **Custer Peak** (far L). Photo looks N.

Somewhere in the vicinity of the ghoul tree, USFS Road No. 203 turned into No. 203.1C. It was all quite odd. Maps showed No. 203 continuing SSE, but from an unconnected point nearly a mile E. Perhaps there had once been a connecting road segment?

In any event, this minor mystery hardly mattered. After continuing SSE across another large, flat region on No. 203.1C, another gradual descent began. Nearly a mile from the ghoul tree, a junction with USFS Roads No. 203.1D and No. 203.1E was reached.

This intersection was in the upper regions of Greens Gulch. No. 203.1C turned SW here, heading farther down the valley. That was the way to Silver Creek in the prettiest part of Greens Gulch.

Approaching the intersection in **upper Greens Gulch**. **USFS Road No. 203.1E** (L) continues S going uphill. **No. 203.1C** turned R farther into **Greens Gulch**. Photo looks SSE.

As the valley broadened out during the stroll on No. 203.1C deeper into Greens Gulch, Lupe trotted along sniffing wherever she pleased. Dixie alternately explored, or tried to herd Lupe without much success. As a geologist, Uncle Joe often paused to stare at the ground.

Heading farther into **Greens Gulch** on **USFS Road No. 203.1C**. Photo looks SSW.

**Greens Gulch** starts widening out. Photo looks SW.

0.5 mile from the intersection, the start of the widest, most scenic part of Greens Gulch began coming into view. By now, a diminutive tributary of Silver Creek ran alongside No. 203.1C. There was more to see ahead, but unfortunately, it was already about time to take a break before heading back. Checking out a couple of hillside spots on the N side of the valley, the second one proved to be the better choice.

**N end of the most scenic part of Greens Gulch**. Photo looks W.

Near the **tiny tributary of Silver Creek**. Photo looks W.

With **Uncle Joe** and **Cousin Dixie** at the break spot on the **N side of Greens Gulch**.

12:32 PM, Greens Gulch – Not a cloud in the sky! Warm in the sun, Dixie and Lupe both appreciated the shade of a few pines along the edge of the forest. Downfall provided seats for Joe and SPHP. Although no peak had been climbed, for the 2nd day running, Lupe, Joe, and SPHP all enjoyed chocolate coconut bars while Dixie had to settle for Taste of the Wild. Joe generously also provided SPHP with a tasty fruit and nut bar from his selection. Water for all, of course!

Far, far away, another war had started in the Middle East this morning. No such strife here! Serene and lovely, Greens Gulch was indisputably a much better place to be.

The inevitable return was another pleasant trek, although mostly uphill this time. Retracing the same route, a little snake, somewhat rare in the Black Hills, was sunning itself on the road. A dangerous pleasure! Sadly, farther on, another young snake had been run over by one of the ATV’s that occasionally roared by.

Returning to **USFS Road No. 203.1C**. Photo looks SE.

The little snake, a completely harmless variety.

The herd of black cows N of the ghoul tree had gone elsewhere by the time Lupe got back to where they’d been. While Dixie, Lupe, and SPHP entered their pasture to get a better look at Custer Peak, Joe stood quietly contemplating the scene from a gate close to the road, unaware that he was solving a mystery in the process.

**Custer Peak** (L) from the field where the cows had been. Photo looks N.

Joe pondering the scene. Photo looks NE.

Why, of course! SPHP still didn’t realize it until much later, but that gate was obviously a USFS gate. Even though only the faintest signs of a road remained now, that gate must have been where the missing connecting portion of USFS Road No. 203 had once split off to join the rest of No. 203 E of Minnesota Ridge.

Not exactly an earthshaking discovery. The return trek resumed, and later that evening Aunt Andrea brought Grandma over to Hotel Lupe to partake of the spaghetti dinner SPHP whomped up for everyone, human or canine, that might be so inclined. (End 1:53 PM, 64ºF)

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Lupe & Dixie’s Scrollable GPS Track

Expedition No. 203 – Gimlet Creek to Minnesota Ridge (5-6-17)

Expedition No. 78 – The Experimental Forest & Minnesota Ridge (3-9-14)

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico (6-25-23)

Days 18 & 19 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-24-23, 6:06 AM, 35ºF – start of USFS Road No. 877, W of Lake City – Bleary-eyed, Lupe stared at SPHP in disbelief.

Up already? Why?

Oh, I don’t know, Loop. Woke up feeling surprisingly good, except for my smashed R pinky toe that the rock fell on yesterday. Even it’s doing better than it was. Thought I’d straighten out the RAV4 a bit before we head out.

Where to next, SPHP? We aren’t climbing any mountains today, are we?

Not exactly sure yet, Loop, except for S. We’re done in Colorado for this Dingo Vacation, so we’ll be heading into northern New Mexico. Haven’t decided which peak we’ll be going for yet, though.

Can you make it an easier one, SPHP? Maybe something without any frigid, frightening fords this time?

I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.

SE of Lake City, Hwy 149 climbed through spectacular scenery clear up to Slumgullion Pass (11,361 ft.) before going over less dramatic Spring Creek Pass (10,898 ft.), and dropping down into the Rio Grande River valley. This was all incredibly beautiful territory, but by the time Lupe arrived in Del Norte, she was out in the flats again. A short romp in North Park led to a view of the big river, which was full to the point of overflowing – not surprising at all, given the incredible amount of snow Lupe had seen in the San Juans.

**Rio Grande River** from North Park in Del Norte. Photo looks NW.

From Del Norte, it wasn’t far to Monte Vista, a town that had become a Lupe favorite, and where she spent the rest of the morning and half of the afternoon squirrel watching, or dozing on her pink blanket in the RAV4 in the shade of the big cottonwoods out in front of the high school. SPHP dined on cherry turnovers and orange juice while working on the trip journal and pondering the Carolina Dog’s next move.

The afternoon temperature soared into the 80’s ºF. Time to head out and turn on the AC! Another scenic drive, this time into New Mexico, and by early evening the RAV4 was parked along USFS Road No. 124 a few miles WSW of Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.).

Evening in **New Mexico** along **USFS Road No. 124**. Photo looks SSW.

6-25-23, 9:00 AM, 55ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – Got chilly last night! With an easy day expected, SPHP remained snuggled under the blankets until the sun hit the treetops before heating up a can of chili. Served Taste of the Wild with chili poured over the top, at first the American Dingo wouldn’t touch it. When she did, the combo was a big hit.

Oh, that hit the spot, SPHP!

Glad you liked it, Looper. Warming up fast, so we might as well get going.

No frigid fords this time, SPHP?

Nope, and not a cloud in the sky. You might be wishing for one by the time this is over and done with.

Canjilon Mountain was a road hike. The trek began with a 0.5 mile stint on USFS Road No. 124, following it SE going gradually uphill to a junction with No. 274B.

About to set out along **No. 124** for **Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

At the junction with **USFS Road No. 274B** (L). **No. 124** (R). Photo looks SE.

Making the L turn onto No. 274B, it immediately led to a clearing full of tall, brilliantly green plants with big leaves and wild irises.

Entering the **first clearing near the start of USFS Road No. 274B**. Photo looks N.

Amid the big green plants and wild irises. Photo looks NE.

Wow! Can’t believe how lush it is here in New Mexico, SPHP. Colorado wasn’t this green!

Early summer is probably a good time of year to be here, Looper. Plus we’re a few thousand feet lower here than we were in Colorado, so the plants have had more of a chance to grow.

No. 274B left the clearing heading NE, before eventually turning E. Lupe appreciated the shade of the trees as the road continued a gradual climb through open forest. However, although pleasant, most of the territory the Carolina Dog was traveling through wasn’t nearly as lush as that first clearing.

Winding through the open forest. Photo looks NE.

A lovely stretch of tall aspens. Photo looks S.

Ambling along in no particular rush, partly due to SPHP’s sore toe, every now and then a cow could be heard mooing in the forest. Glancing back, a black cow was bringing up the rear, right on the road. Seeing that this cow was a loner emboldened the American Dingo. Turning the tables, Lupe dashed off in pursuit of the cow, which soon ran past SPHP.

For pity sake, SPHP! Don’t you know anything about hunting? That was dinner! You were supposed to head that cow off at the pass. We could have had T-bone steaks!

Sorry, Loop. Didn’t think this was a pass. Besides, I bet there’s a rancher who wouldn’t take too kindly to us eating his steaks. If you see any more cows, leave ’em alone!

The cow was now somewhere up ahead. Lupe soon heard it mooing again. By the time she saw it over on a hillside, the cow had found a friend. Both cows still seemed to be looking for the rest of the herd.

This time, the Carolina Dog behaved. The road trek continued without further incident. More clearings appeared. From the first big one, Lupe got her first unobstructed view of distant forested ridges to the W.

Although forest was always nearby, the road increasingly went through sunny meadows. During forested stretches, or whenever a tree was next to the road, Lupe often wanted to relax in the shade and have a drink of water. Overall progress remained excellent, and a high ridge eventually came into view. Mostly forested, a long stretch along the top was bare.

Following USFS Road No. 274B through a meadow. Photo looks E.

Approaching the high ridge. Photo looks NE.

That ridge must be the top of Canjilon Mountain, Loop.

Already? Looks easy, SPHP. We’ve got this one made, if that’s really it!

Turning N for a little way, the road entered a vast, flat meadow. The Canjilon Mountain summit ridge and entire W slope were now in sight. The lower part was mostly open, while the upper regions were forested. Angling NE over to the base of the slope, the only steep part of the entire journey was now ahead.

**Canjilon Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

At the base of the much steeper climb. Photo looks ENE.

The top of the mountain was only 400 feet higher now. No. 274B headed up the W slope as a deeply eroded rocky gash. A turn S, then back to the E, and the road reached a gentler, open slope. Abandoning No. 274B, Lupe climbed NNE past a few scattered trees.

Heading up the W slope on stoney, badly eroded No. 274B. Photo looks SE.

About to head up to the **summit** (Center) along the slope on the R. Photo looks NNE.

6-25-23, 11:56 AM, 68ºF, Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.) – The terrain leveled out as Lupe reached the bare part of the ridge, which was 800 feet long. The true summit was a fairly large flat area covered with small rocks right along the steep W edge. In all other directions, the ground sloped away only very gradually.

At the **true summit of Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The big view was off to the W, where an enormous region of lowlands extended toward distant ridges that weren’t even close to being as high as Canjilon Mountain. Higher snow-capped peaks of the San Juan Range were visible to the NW, but were so far away that they may have been in Colorado. Forested ridges of roughly equal elevation were to the S, but were also far away. Featureless from here, they lacked rugged appeal.

The big view. **Red Hill** (L of Center) in the foreground. Photo looks W.

**Distant snow-capped peaks** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Beyond a large, nearly flat meadow, forest hid any views to the N and E. However, a couple items of potential interest were in these directions. 200 feet ENE of the true summit, a battered old cabin stood alone in the meadow, surrounded by a multitude of purple or blue wildflowers with yellow centers. Another 400 feet N, some sort of a display was along the edge of the forest, as if a trailhead was over there.

Let’s check out the cabin, SPHP!

Might as well, Loopster.

Heading over to check out the cabin. Photo looks E.

The poor, old, weather-beaten cabin was tiny, and in a sad state. Lupe sniffed around the outside, finding little of interest, then went in. Other than names and graffiti carved into the walls, pieces of plywood and broken glass, the cabin’s only room was empty.

The weather-beaten exterior. Photo looks E.

At the front door. Actually, Lupe’s standing on it. Photo looks NW.

Too much broken glass to stick around. Photo looks E.

Definitely seen better days, Looper.

Actually, I’m sort of surprised, SPHP. Doesn’t look like the roof leaks.

Yeah, you’re right, Loop. If I had a broom and dustpan to sweep up the broken glass, this cabin might still make a decent temporary shelter.

Well, we won’t need one today, SPHP. Not much more to see here, is there? Maybe there’s something interesting over at the trailhead?

USFS Road No. 274B, which went right over the mountain, disappeared into the forest right next to the display.

Hmm. This display doesn’t actually have anything to do with any trails, Loopster.

Not terribly surprising, SPHP. Few trails start at the tops of mountains. So, what is it about?

Says Carson National Forest at the top, and below that shows 3 old photos and a historic note that is itself weathering away. Can’t make all of it out, but here’s what it says, Loop:

“This restored cabin is the oldest surviving fire lookout structure in the SW. The cabin and now dismantled fire tower were built around 1910. Being the highest point around (10,913 feet) and very open, lightning strikes frequently up here. In the summer of 1922 Victor Ortega and his family lived in the tiny cabin while he watched for forest fires from the tower. One afternoon, lightning struck the cabin and the tower, killing Victor on the second strike. The tower …. illegible … abandoned and dismantled.”

Oh, that’s very sad, SPHP! What happened to Victor’s family in the cabin? Were they OK?

Don’t know. That’s all it says, Loopster. There’s a picture of Victor Ortega, and a couple of the fire tower. One shows the cabin in much better shape, but with the tower either under construction, or already damaged by the lightning strike.

After that sad tale, it was time to take a break. Heading over to the steep W edge, Lupe then went N looking for a shady spot open enough to still have a view.

N of the cabin looking for a shady spot with a view. Photo looks S.

Oddly enough, the American Dingo quickly found a spot that seemed ideal. Not only did it have a view to the SW, but a small snowbank was conveniently nearby where Lupe could cool off and eat some snow.

The view from the break spot along the W edge. Photo looks SW.

Enjoying the little snowbank melting in the forest. Photo looks SSE.

Those features weren’t what was odd about this spot, though. What was unusual was the ancient wooden cross sticking out from a loose pile of stones. Held together by rusty wire, the cross had half fallen over.

By the **ancient cross** (L). Photo looks NNE.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Do you suppose they buried Victor Ortega right here?

Who knows, Loopster? Someone or something is probably buried here. Can’t rule it out. Victor may be just a few feet below us.

Lupe stayed quite a while near Victor’s grave, if that’s what it was. SPHP ate a pear fruit cup while pondering the view Victor must have seen hundreds of times. The Carolina Dog wanted only water and a chance to doze in the shade.

The summer of 1922, that was 101 years ago. Victor and his family had been alive and well on Canjilon Mountain until that fateful lightning storm had blown in. Now Lupe was here on a beautiful day Victor never even dreamed of, a day more than a century into the future, beyond the reach of any individual human’s aspirations.

That stormy day so long ago had been just as real as this one. Now all that remained of Victor and the world he knew were a few old photos, a brief history that time was in the process of erasing, and maybe this pile of stones and forlorn old cross.

Before leaving Canjilon Mountain, Lupe returned to the tiny cabin where Victor and his family once lived. Even if in perfect condition, it seemed impossibly small, remote, and simple for a family residence.

Heading back to Victor’s cabin. Photo looks S.

60 feet straight out from the front door, Lupe found an arrow survey marker that pointed toward the true summit.

The **“Jilon” directional survey marker**.

About the time she found it, a distant roar was heard.

Something’s coming, SPHP!

Nope. Not some terrible thunderstorm. A dune buggy came roaring up USFS Road No. 274B from the S like some giant mechanical insect. The buggy stopped briefly at the true summit, before roaring away again and disappearing into the forest as it sped by the historical display.

Getting to be time to go. Alive and well, 101 years after Victor Ortega’s last summer on Canjilon Mountain, Lupe paid her respects, sitting for a few minutes among the wildflowers near the true summit about where the old fire tower had once stood.

6-25-23, 1:22 PM – Returning to the true summit, the wind, which had been light when Lupe had first arrived, was now 20 mph out of the W. Looking down the W slope, USFS Road No. 274B was in sight in the flat meadows below. The road didn’t go to it, but a much lower forested hill was in sight, too, less than 2 miles away.

Want to tag Red Hill (10,160 ft.) on the way back, Loop? Chance to do some exploring, and ought to be a snap.

**Red Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

The American Dingo was all for it. Heading back down the S slope, Lupe picked up No. 274B again, following it down the W slope to the big flat meadow. There she left the road, continuing WNW toward Red Hill.

Leaving **Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks S.

On the way to **Red Hill** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

The trek to Red Hill was a pleasant, downhill march, mostly through open fields. Hot in her fur coat beneath the New Mexico sun, Lupe wanted to pause in the shade of a grove of tall aspen trees.

With many hours of daylight remaining there was no reason not to stop, and let her enjoy the afternoon. Resting in the shade of a big aspen with a crooked trunk, Lupe actually snoozed for a while under some little evergreens.

Enjoying half an hour at the aspen oasis. Photo looks WNW.

Closing in on Red Hill, Lupe was still in the meadows when she came upon a spot near a barbed wire fence where some totally clueless people had once had a picnic, leaving a huge mess behind. SPHP had already started collecting Lupe treasures along USFS Road No. 274B on the way to Canjilon Peak. By the time SPHP finished cleaning up this mess, 2 more plastic grocery bags were full.

Following the fence, which had completely fallen over in some places, Lupe eventually had to duck under it to continue the journey to Red Hill, now only 0.25 mile away.

The American Dingo never got there. Beyond the fence stood a forest so dense and full of deadfall, that SPHP quickly had a change of heart.

The **dense, deadfall-strewn forest leading to Red Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

Eh. Red Hill’s hardly worth it, Loopster. Saw from Canjilon Mountain that the whole hill is forested, so even if we reach the top, we won’t see a thing.

Then why did you even suggest it, SPHP?

Thought it would be easy to tag the high point, Loop. Would have been, too, if not for all this deadfall.

Lupe didn’t care. Battling deadfall wasn’t the Carolina Dog’s favorite thing, either. Besides, she’d already made it to Canjilon Mountain, her main objective. Slipping back under the fence, then wandering roughly SSW, it was farther back to USFS Road No. 274B than SPHP expected. However, Lupe had a blast exploring the meadows and more open forests along the way.

An old cow path eventually led to a salt lick from which No. 274B was visible 100 feet away. During the rest of the road hike return, SPHP kept gathering Lupe treasures until it wasn’t possible to carry any more.

6-25-23, 3:53 PM, 77ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – The RAV4 was an oven when Lupe got back. Even so, she leapt up onto her pink blanket as soon as SPHP opened the door, then laid there panting in 110ºF heat.

Are you nuts? Get out of there, Loop! You’ll cook!

Opening all the windows, a breeze quickly blew the hot air out, but with everything inside still blistering hot to the touch, SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe back in until the sun got lower and the evening cooled off. Happily, the only thing that cooked was another can of chili for dinner.

Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.), with its unexpected sad tale of events 101 years ago, had been a much easier, more relaxing day than Lupe’s most recent prior adventures, and a welcome, needed break. Perhaps a somewhat wistful one, too.

Remembering **Victor Ortega** on Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico 6-25-23

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Lupe treasures gathered: 24 aluminum cans, 12 plastic bottles, 3 glass bottles, miscellaneous.

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