10:31 AM, 57ºF – It was the 2nd day of Cousin Dixie, Uncle Joe, and Aunt Andrea’s stay at Hotel Lupe. As usual, once Andrea left to spend the day with Grandma; Joe, Dixie, Lupe, and SPHP had all piled into the RAV4. Now it was parked near the N end of USFS Road No. 203, a little S of the junction with No. 256.
Near the N end of USFS Road No. 203, aka Minnesota Ridge Road. Photo looks SSW.
Although signed as Minnesota Ridge Road, No. 203 wouldn’t actually get anywhere near the summit. Didn’t really matter, since today’s romp didn’t necessarily envision a peakbagging goal, anyway, although that was obviously an option. Greens Gulch was the chosen destination, an easy road hike all the way.
It was a beautiful, bright, warm early fall day, as everyone set off across a flat region heading SSE along No. 203. The road then began a gradual descent before bottoming out 0.5 mile from the RAV4 at a junction with No. 203.1B. Here, 5 month old Cousin Dixie was amazed to see large black animals roaming the forest.
Lupe knew what they were! Cows! For some reason these cows were wandering through the forest instead of hanging out in some grassy meadow. Dixie was keenly interested in this phenomenon, prompting Joe to leash her up lest any real excitement ensue. The cows themselves didn’t seem all that eager to make any non-bovine acquaintances, and hastily ventured off even deeper into the forest.
Dixie discovers cows (center). Photo looks S.
No. 203 wound E from here over a small rise, soon leading to a glimpse of the gently sloping N end of Minnesota Ridge(6,240 ft.). Beyond this view, the road dipped again heading SE into another stretch of forest.
A glimpse of the N end of Minnesota Ridge (Center). Photo looks SE.Another nicely shaded stretch of USFS Road No. 203. Photo looks SE.
Before long, the road was regaining elevation again as it broke out of the forest into a giant meadow dotted with aspens sporting yellow leaves. A larger herd of black cows was sensibly busy grazing in this field. Most of these cows were far enough away to pay little attention to Lupe and her new Aussie Shepherd cousin side-kick.
Cows grazing on the NW slopes of Minnesota Ridge. Photo looks E.
The road turned S, and flattened out. A lone ghoul tree stood ominously in this area. Lupe went over to investigate. In broad daylight, the ghoul tree didn’t seem that scary, but Halloween was only a few weeks away. No telling what frightening events might take place here then!
Custer Peak(6,804 ft.) was now in sight nearly 5 miles back to the N.
By the ghoul tree. Custer Peak (far L). Photo looks N.
Somewhere in the vicinity of the ghoul tree, USFS Road No. 203 turned into No. 203.1C. It was all quite odd. Maps showed No. 203 continuing SSE, but from an unconnected point nearly a mile E. Perhaps there had once been a connecting road segment?
In any event, this minor mystery hardly mattered. After continuing SSE across another large, flat region on No. 203.1C, another gradual descent began. Nearly a mile from the ghoul tree, a junction with USFS Roads No. 203.1D and No. 203.1E was reached.
This intersection was in the upper regions of Greens Gulch. No. 203.1C turned SW here, heading farther down the valley. That was the way to Silver Creek in the prettiest part of Greens Gulch.
Approaching the intersection in upper Greens Gulch. USFS Road No. 203.1E (L) continues S going uphill. No. 203.1C turned R farther into Greens Gulch. Photo looks SSE.
As the valley broadened out during the stroll on No. 203.1C deeper into Greens Gulch, Lupe trotted along sniffing wherever she pleased. Dixie alternately explored, or tried to herd Lupe without much success. As a geologist, Uncle Joe often paused to stare at the ground.
Heading farther into Greens Gulch on USFS Road No. 203.1C. Photo looks SSW.Greens Gulch starts widening out. Photo looks SW.
0.5 mile from the intersection, the start of the widest, most scenic part of Greens Gulch began coming into view. By now, a diminutive tributary of Silver Creek ran alongside No. 203.1C. There was more to see ahead, but unfortunately, it was already about time to take a break before heading back. Checking out a couple of hillside spots on the N side of the valley, the second one proved to be the better choice.
N end of the most scenic part of Greens Gulch. Photo looks W.Near the tiny tributary of Silver Creek. Photo looks W.With Uncle Joe and Cousin Dixie at the break spot on the N side of Greens Gulch.
12:32 PM, Greens Gulch – Not a cloud in the sky! Warm in the sun, Dixie and Lupe both appreciated the shade of a few pines along the edge of the forest. Downfall provided seats for Joe and SPHP. Although no peak had been climbed, for the 2nd day running, Lupe, Joe, and SPHP all enjoyed chocolate coconut bars while Dixie had to settle for Taste of the Wild. Joe generously also provided SPHP with a tasty fruit and nut bar from his selection. Water for all, of course!
Far, far away, another war had started in the Middle East this morning. No such strife here! Serene and lovely, Greens Gulch was indisputably a much better place to be.
The inevitable return was another pleasant trek, although mostly uphill this time. Retracing the same route, a little snake, somewhat rare in the Black Hills, was sunning itself on the road. A dangerous pleasure! Sadly, farther on, another young snake had been run over by one of the ATV’s that occasionally roared by.
Returning to USFS Road No. 203.1C. Photo looks SE.The little snake, a completely harmless variety.
The herd of black cows N of the ghoul tree had gone elsewhere by the time Lupe got back to where they’d been. While Dixie, Lupe, and SPHP entered their pasture to get a better look at Custer Peak, Joe stood quietly contemplating the scene from a gate close to the road, unaware that he was solving a mystery in the process.
Custer Peak (L) from the field where the cows had been. Photo looks N.Joe pondering the scene. Photo looks NE.
Why, of course! SPHP still didn’t realize it until much later, but that gate was obviously a USFS gate. Even though only the faintest signs of a road remained now, that gate must have been where the missing connecting portion of USFS Road No. 203 had once split off to join the rest of No. 203 E of Minnesota Ridge.
Not exactly an earthshaking discovery. The return trek resumed, and later that evening Aunt Andrea brought Grandma over to Hotel Lupe to partake of the spaghetti dinner SPHP whomped up for everyone, human or canine, that might be so inclined. (End 1:53 PM, 64ºF)
Days 18 & 19 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!
6-24-23, 6:06 AM, 35ºF – start of USFS Road No. 877, W of Lake City – Bleary-eyed, Lupe stared at SPHP in disbelief.
Up already? Why?
Oh, I don’t know, Loop. Woke up feeling surprisingly good, except for my smashed R pinky toe that the rock fell on yesterday. Even it’s doing better than it was. Thought I’d straighten out the RAV4 a bit before we head out.
Where to next, SPHP? We aren’t climbing any mountains today, are we?
Not exactly sure yet, Loop, except for S. We’re done in Colorado for this Dingo Vacation, so we’ll be heading into northern New Mexico. Haven’t decided which peak we’ll be going for yet, though.
Can you make it an easier one, SPHP? Maybe something without any frigid, frightening fords this time?
I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.
SE of Lake City, Hwy 149 climbed through spectacular scenery clear up to Slumgullion Pass (11,361 ft.) before going over less dramatic Spring Creek Pass (10,898 ft.), and dropping down into the Rio Grande River valley. This was all incredibly beautiful territory, but by the time Lupe arrived in Del Norte, she was out in the flats again. A short romp in North Park led to a view of the big river, which was full to the point of overflowing – not surprising at all, given the incredible amount of snow Lupe had seen in the San Juans.
Rio Grande River from North Park in Del Norte. Photo looks NW.
From Del Norte, it wasn’t far to Monte Vista, a town that had become a Lupe favorite, and where she spent the rest of the morning and half of the afternoon squirrel watching, or dozing on her pink blanket in the RAV4 in the shade of the big cottonwoods out in front of the high school. SPHP dined on cherry turnovers and orange juice while working on the trip journal and pondering the Carolina Dog’s next move.
The afternoon temperature soared into the 80’s ºF. Time to head out and turn on the AC! Another scenic drive, this time into New Mexico, and by early evening the RAV4 was parked along USFS Road No. 124 a few miles WSW of Canjilon Mountain(10,913 ft.).
Evening in New Mexico along USFS Road No. 124. Photo looks SSW.
6-25-23, 9:00 AM, 55ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – Got chilly last night! With an easy day expected, SPHP remained snuggled under the blankets until the sun hit the treetops before heating up a can of chili. Served Taste of the Wild with chili poured over the top, at first the American Dingo wouldn’t touch it. When she did, the combo was a big hit.
Oh, that hit the spot, SPHP!
Glad you liked it, Looper. Warming up fast, so we might as well get going.
No frigid fords this time, SPHP?
Nope, and not a cloud in the sky. You might be wishing for one by the time this is over and done with.
Canjilon Mountain was a road hike. The trek began with a 0.5 mile stint on USFS Road No. 124, following it SE going gradually uphill to a junction with No. 274B.
About to set out along No. 124 for Canjilon Mountain. Photo looks SE.At the junction with USFS Road No. 274B (L). No. 124 (R). Photo looks SE.
Making the L turn onto No. 274B, it immediately led to a clearing full of tall, brilliantly green plants with big leaves and wild irises.
Entering the first clearing near the start of USFS Road No. 274B. Photo looks N.Amid the big green plants and wild irises. Photo looks NE.
Wow! Can’t believe how lush it is here in New Mexico, SPHP. Colorado wasn’t this green!
Early summer is probably a good time of year to be here, Looper. Plus we’re a few thousand feet lower here than we were in Colorado, so the plants have had more of a chance to grow.
No. 274B left the clearing heading NE, before eventually turning E. Lupe appreciated the shade of the trees as the road continued a gradual climb through open forest. However, although pleasant, most of the territory the Carolina Dog was traveling through wasn’t nearly as lush as that first clearing.
More typical terrain. Photo looks E.Winding through the open forest. Photo looks NE.A lovely stretch of tall aspens. Photo looks S.
Ambling along in no particular rush, partly due to SPHP’s sore toe, every now and then a cow could be heard mooing in the forest. Glancing back, a black cow was bringing up the rear, right on the road. Seeing that this cow was a loner emboldened the American Dingo. Turning the tables, Lupe dashed off in pursuit of the cow, which soon ran past SPHP.
The fleeing cow.
For pity sake, SPHP! Don’t you know anything about hunting? That was dinner! You were supposed to head that cow off at the pass. We could have had T-bone steaks!
Sorry, Loop. Didn’t think this was a pass. Besides, I bet there’s a rancher who wouldn’t take too kindly to us eating his steaks. If you see any more cows, leave ’em alone!
The cow was now somewhere up ahead. Lupe soon heard it mooing again. By the time she saw it over on a hillside, the cow had found a friend. Both cows still seemed to be looking for the rest of the herd.
This time, the Carolina Dog behaved. The road trek continued without further incident. More clearings appeared. From the first big one, Lupe got her first unobstructed view of distant forested ridges to the W.
First distant view. Photo looks WSW.
Although forest was always nearby, the road increasingly went through sunny meadows. During forested stretches, or whenever a tree was next to the road, Lupe often wanted to relax in the shade and have a drink of water. Overall progress remained excellent, and a high ridge eventually came into view. Mostly forested, a long stretch along the top was bare.
Following USFS Road No. 274B through a meadow. Photo looks E.Approaching the high ridge. Photo looks NE.
That ridge must be the top of Canjilon Mountain, Loop.
Already? Looks easy, SPHP. We’ve got this one made, if that’s really it!
Turning N for a little way, the road entered a vast, flat meadow. The Canjilon Mountain summit ridge and entire W slope were now in sight. The lower part was mostly open, while the upper regions were forested. Angling NE over to the base of the slope, the only steep part of the entire journey was now ahead.
Canjilon Mountain (R). Photo looks NE.At the base of the much steeper climb. Photo looks ENE.
The top of the mountain was only 400 feet higher now. No. 274B headed up the W slope as a deeply eroded rocky gash. A turn S, then back to the E, and the road reached a gentler, open slope. Abandoning No. 274B, Lupe climbed NNE past a few scattered trees.
Heading up the W slope on stoney, badly eroded No. 274B. Photo looks SE.About to head up to the summit (Center) along the slope on the R. Photo looks NNE.
6-25-23, 11:56 AM, 68ºF, Canjilon Mountain(10,913 ft.) – The terrain leveled out as Lupe reached the bare part of the ridge, which was 800 feet long. The true summit was a fairly large flat area covered with small rocks right along the steep W edge. In all other directions, the ground sloped away only very gradually.
At the true summit of Canjilon Mountain. Photo looks N.
The big view was off to the W, where an enormous region of lowlands extended toward distant ridges that weren’t even close to being as high as Canjilon Mountain. Higher snow-capped peaks of the San Juan Range were visible to the NW, but were so far away that they may have been in Colorado. Forested ridges of roughly equal elevation were to the S, but were also far away. Featureless from here, they lacked rugged appeal.
The big view. Red Hill (L of Center) in the foreground. Photo looks W.Distant snow-capped peaks (Center). Photo looks NW.Looking SSW.Another distant range. Photo looks SE.
Beyond a large, nearly flat meadow, forest hid any views to the N and E. However, a couple items of potential interest were in these directions. 200 feet ENE of the true summit, a battered old cabin stood alone in the meadow, surrounded by a multitude of purple or blue wildflowers with yellow centers. Another 400 feet N, some sort of a display was along the edge of the forest, as if a trailhead was over there.
Let’s check out the cabin, SPHP!
Might as well, Loopster.
Heading over to check out the cabin. Photo looks E.
The poor, old, weather-beaten cabin was tiny, and in a sad state. Lupe sniffed around the outside, finding little of interest, then went in. Other than names and graffiti carved into the walls, pieces of plywood and broken glass, the cabin’s only room was empty.
The weather-beaten exterior. Photo looks E.At the front door. Actually, Lupe’s standing on it. Photo looks NW.The grand interior. Photo looks NW.Too much broken glass to stick around. Photo looks E.
Definitely seen better days, Looper.
Actually, I’m sort of surprised, SPHP. Doesn’t look like the roof leaks.
Yeah, you’re right, Loop. If I had a broom and dustpan to sweep up the broken glass, this cabin might still make a decent temporary shelter.
Well, we won’t need one today, SPHP. Not much more to see here, is there? Maybe there’s something interesting over at the trailhead?
USFS Road No. 274B, which went right over the mountain, disappeared into the forest right next to the display.
By the display stand. Photo looks NNE.
Hmm. This display doesn’t actually have anything to do with any trails, Loopster.
Not terribly surprising, SPHP. Few trails start at the tops of mountains. So, what is it about?
Says Carson National Forest at the top, and below that shows 3 old photos and a historic note that is itself weathering away. Can’t make all of it out, but here’s what it says, Loop:
“This restored cabin is the oldest surviving fire lookout structure in the SW. The cabin and now dismantled fire tower were built around 1910. Being the highest point around (10,913 feet) and very open, lightning strikes frequently up here. In the summer of 1922 Victor Ortega and his family lived in the tiny cabin while he watched for forest fires from the tower. One afternoon, lightning struck the cabin and the tower, killing Victor on the second strike. The tower …. illegible … abandoned and dismantled.”
Oh, that’s very sad, SPHP! What happened to Victor’s family in the cabin? Were they OK?
Don’t know. That’s all it says, Loopster. There’s a picture of Victor Ortega, and a couple of the fire tower. One shows the cabin in much better shape, but with the tower either under construction, or already damaged by the lightning strike.
Victor Ortega.The old fire tower.The cabin and fire tower long ago.
After that sad tale, it was time to take a break. Heading over to the steep W edge, Lupe then went N looking for a shady spot open enough to still have a view.
N of the cabin looking for a shady spot with a view. Photo looks S.
Oddly enough, the American Dingo quickly found a spot that seemed ideal. Not only did it have a view to the SW, but a small snowbank was conveniently nearby where Lupe could cool off and eat some snow.
The view from the break spot along the W edge. Photo looks SW.Enjoying the little snowbank melting in the forest. Photo looks SSE.
Those features weren’t what was odd about this spot, though. What was unusual was the ancient wooden cross sticking out from a loose pile of stones. Held together by rusty wire, the cross had half fallen over.
By the ancient cross (L). Photo looks NNE.
Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Do you suppose they buried Victor Ortega right here?
Who knows, Loopster? Someone or something is probably buried here. Can’t rule it out. Victor may be just a few feet below us.
Lupe stayed quite a while near Victor’s grave, if that’s what it was. SPHP ate a pear fruit cup while pondering the view Victor must have seen hundreds of times. The Carolina Dog wanted only water and a chance to doze in the shade.
Relaxing in the shade.
The summer of 1922, that was 101 years ago. Victor and his family had been alive and well on Canjilon Mountain until that fateful lightning storm had blown in. Now Lupe was here on a beautiful day Victor never even dreamed of, a day more than a century into the future, beyond the reach of any individual human’s aspirations.
That stormy day so long ago had been just as real as this one. Now all that remained of Victor and the world he knew were a few old photos, a brief history that time was in the process of erasing, and maybe this pile of stones and forlorn old cross.
Before leaving Canjilon Mountain, Lupe returned to the tiny cabin where Victor and his family once lived. Even if in perfect condition, it seemed impossibly small, remote, and simple for a family residence.
Heading back to Victor’s cabin. Photo looks S.
60 feet straight out from the front door, Lupe found an arrow survey marker that pointed toward the true summit.
The “Jilon” directional survey marker.
About the time she found it, a distant roar was heard.
Something’s coming, SPHP!
Nope. Not some terrible thunderstorm. A dune buggy came roaring up USFS Road No. 274B from the S like some giant mechanical insect. The buggy stopped briefly at the true summit, before roaring away again and disappearing into the forest as it sped by the historical display.
The dune buggy. Photo looks NW.
Getting to be time to go. Alive and well, 101 years after Victor Ortega’s last summer on Canjilon Mountain, Lupe paid her respects, sitting for a few minutes among the wildflowers near the true summit about where the old fire tower had once stood.
Among the wildflowers. Photo looks W.A Canjilon Mountain bouquet.
6-25-23, 1:22 PM – Returning to the true summit, the wind, which had been light when Lupe had first arrived, was now 20 mph out of the W. Looking down the W slope, USFS Road No. 274B was in sight in the flat meadows below. The road didn’t go to it, but a much lower forested hill was in sight, too, less than 2 miles away.
Want to tag Red Hill(10,160 ft.) on the way back, Loop? Chance to do some exploring, and ought to be a snap.
Red Hill (R of Center). Photo looks W.
The American Dingo was all for it. Heading back down the S slope, Lupe picked up No. 274B again, following it down the W slope to the big flat meadow. There she left the road, continuing WNW toward Red Hill.
Leaving Canjilon Mountain. Photo looks S.On the way to Red Hill (Center). Photo looks WNW.
The trek to Red Hill was a pleasant, downhill march, mostly through open fields. Hot in her fur coat beneath the New Mexico sun, Lupe wanted to pause in the shade of a grove of tall aspen trees.
With many hours of daylight remaining there was no reason not to stop, and let her enjoy the afternoon. Resting in the shade of a big aspen with a crooked trunk, Lupe actually snoozed for a while under some little evergreens.
Enjoying half an hour at the aspen oasis. Photo looks WNW.
Closing in on Red Hill, Lupe was still in the meadows when she came upon a spot near a barbed wire fence where some totally clueless people had once had a picnic, leaving a huge mess behind. SPHP had already started collecting Lupe treasures along USFS Road No. 274B on the way to Canjilon Peak. By the time SPHP finished cleaning up this mess, 2 more plastic grocery bags were full.
Following the fence, which had completely fallen over in some places, Lupe eventually had to duck under it to continue the journey to Red Hill, now only 0.25 mile away.
The American Dingo never got there. Beyond the fence stood a forest so dense and full of deadfall, that SPHP quickly had a change of heart.
The dense, deadfall-strewn forest leading to Red Hill. Photo looks WNW.
Eh. Red Hill’s hardly worth it, Loopster. Saw from Canjilon Mountain that the whole hill is forested, so even if we reach the top, we won’t see a thing.
Then why did you even suggest it, SPHP?
Thought it would be easy to tag the high point, Loop. Would have been, too, if not for all this deadfall.
Lupe didn’t care. Battling deadfall wasn’t the Carolina Dog’s favorite thing, either. Besides, she’d already made it to Canjilon Mountain, her main objective. Slipping back under the fence, then wandering roughly SSW, it was farther back to USFS Road No. 274B than SPHP expected. However, Lupe had a blast exploring the meadows and more open forests along the way.
An old cow path eventually led to a salt lick from which No. 274B was visible 100 feet away. During the rest of the road hike return, SPHP kept gathering Lupe treasures until it wasn’t possible to carry any more.
6-25-23, 3:53 PM, 77ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – The RAV4 was an oven when Lupe got back. Even so, she leapt up onto her pink blanket as soon as SPHP opened the door, then laid there panting in 110ºF heat.
Are you nuts? Get out of there, Loop! You’ll cook!
Opening all the windows, a breeze quickly blew the hot air out, but with everything inside still blistering hot to the touch, SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe back in until the sun got lower and the evening cooled off. Happily, the only thing that cooked was another can of chili for dinner.
Canjilon Mountain(10,913 ft.), with its unexpected sad tale of events 101 years ago, had been a much easier, more relaxing day than Lupe’s most recent prior adventures, and a welcome, needed break. Perhaps a somewhat wistful one, too.
Remembering Victor Ortega on Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico 6-25-23Lupe’s GPS Track
Days 16 & 17 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!
6-22-23, 4:32 PM, Carp Lake near the Grand Mesa Visitor Center –
This is a gorgeous area, SPHP! For a backup plan, Grand Mesa’s looking fabulous! We’ve seen so many beautiful lakes already, and we’ve only just arrived. What’s the name of this one?
Carp Lake. Cobbett Lake on some maps, Looper.
Carp Lake on Grand Mesa. Photo looks ENE.
Well, Carp or Cobbett, it’s a beauty, SPHP! What did they say in the visitor center?
Unfortunately, they basically said we’ve come a long way for nothing, Loopster. Leon Peak(11,236 ft.) isn’t going to work.
What! Why not, SPHP?
USFS Road No. 121 is closed E of Baron Lake due to deep snow, Loop, as in gated shut. We can’t get anywhere near the trailhead.
So, what are we going to do, SPHP?
Don’t know yet, sweet puppy. The Crag Crest(11,189 ft.) trail might be an option, but even if we do that, we’d still want to come back to hit Leon someday. Intended to visit both of them while we’re here this time.
Can we get to a trailhead for Crag Crest? I wouldn’t mind doing that, SPHP.
Yup, there’s a trailhead less than 0.5 mile from here N of Island Lake. On the other paw, I suppose we might consider going back to Plan A.
Speaking of paws, what about your sore paws, though, SPHP? We’re here because Plan A would be too much for them so soon after San Luis Peak(14,014 ft.) yesterday, remember?
Yeah, I know it, Loop, but they’re already feeling better than expected.
Seriously? Good enough for nearly 5,000 feet of elevation gain tomorrow, SPHP?
Even SPHP wasn’t truly convinced, but Plan A won out. After another hours long, very scenic drive, Lupe was in Lake City by dusk. Finding a gravel road near the S end of town that went to Engineer Pass, SPHP took a chance on it. Passing through a narrow gap between towering cliffs where Henson Creek gushed in a raging torrent right next to the road, the road then wound through an old mining district.
Roughly 5 miles W of Lake City, there it was! The sign SPHP had been looking for.
Let’s get out and have a look, Loopster. We’re at Nellie Creek!
Evening at Blue Mesa Reservoir on the way to Lake City. Photo looks W.Signage W of Lake City at the turn for the Nellie Creek trailhead. Photo looks WNW.
Walking up a short incline, vehicles were parked in various spots among the trees. In the growing gloom, lanterns were being lit. People could be heard talking quietly among themselves as they got ready to turn in for the night. Whatever they were saying was drowned out by roar of Nellie Creek, unseen in the dark forest toward the W.
Only one empty parking spot left, SPHP. We better grab it!
6-23-23, 6:31 AM, 45ºF – People were stirring. Lupe was, too. The great day had arrived!
About ready to set out. Photo looks S.
Ready in just a few minutes, Loopster. Putting on these new socks. Extra cushiony. Might need it. Then we’ll be on our way.
Socks and boots on, SPHP drank a strawberry Equate, then hoisted the pack. That was it for breakfast. Lupe was too excited to eat anything. Nellie Creek was still roaring somewhere off to the W.
Alright. Uncompaghre Peak(14,309 ft.) or bust! Onward! Puppy, ho!
Heading N on USFS Road No. 877, the Carolina Dog began the 4 mile long trudge to the Nellie Creek trailhead more than 2,000 feet higher. Those lucky enough to have 4WD could simply drive to it, and start from there.
Starting up USFS Road No. 877. Photo looks N.
The road was relatively flat at first, but a relentless climb soon began. Not that steep, but steady, with only occasional flat spots. No downhill sections at all.
No one else was walking, and, surprisingly, only one vehicle passed Lupe as she trotted higher. After a little while it came back down, the driver pausing to say that he’d merely dropped people off at the Nellie Creek trailhead. Progress was good, and spirits running high. The American Dingo passed a number of dispersed parking spots among the trees, only half of which were occupied. After 0.75 mile, they became scarce.
For the most part, although narrow, No. 877 was actually a fairly decent road. SPHP was still glad, though, that the RAV4 was stashed back in the forest close to the main road to Lake City and Engineer Pass. No. 877 did have some pretty rough, rocky spots, and sometimes ran along the edge of sheer drops.
Meanwhile, a growing concern was gnawing at SPHP. Nellie Creek was often in view now. Although not a huge stream, it always appeared to be an impassable, boulder-infested torrent.
Who cares, SPHP? It’s beautiful.
Yeah, but we’ll be coming to a major test soon enough, Looper. Two of them, actually. We may never even get to the trailhead, much less climb Uncompaghre Peak.
Oh? And what might those tests consist of, SPHP? Do tell!
We’re going to have to ford Nellie Creek twice, Loop. Rob Woodall’s GPS track shows a rickety bridge and a slippery log.
Don’t like that sound of that, or Nellie Creek, SPHP. You mean we drove all over creation yesterday only to come here, when you knew the whole time that this might well be a total fail?
Uh-huh, but then you saw Uncompaghre from San Luis Peak, too, Loop, and the mountain looked beyond our capabilities from there. So you’ve known this might be a fail all along, too.
That’s different, SPHP! Despite what we saw from afar, you said there was a trail to the top!
And there is, sweet puppy! At least, that’s what everyone says, so there must be.
Well, there was no sense in backing out now without seeing what the first ford actually looked like, no matter how intimidating the constant, foaming roar emitted by Nellie Creek.
After gaining 900 feet of elevation over 1.5 miles, Lupe reached the first ford at around 10,200 feet.
First ford of Nellie Creek at 10,200 feet. Photo looks N.
Hmm. Didn’t look bad at all. No big rocks, and Nellie Creek was spread out, most of it quite shallow where the road crossed it. The deepest part where the current was most powerful appeared to be only a couple of feet deep. Not much of an issue for SPHP, but neck deep on Lupe.
Lovely! So where’s the rickety bridge or slippery log Mr. Woodall wants us to take, SPHP?
How am I supposed to know? Maybe they’ve washed out since Rob was here? Anyway, wait here, Loop, I’ll cross first to make sure it isn’t any worse than it looks.
Lupe watched as SPHP removed boots and socks, then waded bare-paw across the icy cold stream.
C’mon, you can do it, Loopster! Cross right where I did, the deepest part isn’t very wide there. You’ll be over in a flash.
Lupe hesitated. Several times the Carolina Dog started in, only to retreat from the frigid water. Nellie Creek looked too wide, and the roar coming from immediately both upstream and downstream was too frightening. A couple of times, Lupe threatened to plunge into the upstream torrent where the creek was narrower, but deep, swift, and full of rocks. SPHP screamed at her not to do that.
Stay there, Loopster! I’ll come and help you.
Fording the stream again, SPHP leashed Lupe up. Carrying her over would be impossible. SPHP needed to be able to use poles to maintain balance. The escort worked, though. Completely drenched, Lupe was soon across, shaking off and sending a spray of water at SPHP.
Don’t say a thing, SPHP! Your little cold shower is nothing compared to what I’ve just been through!
The road hike continued. A beautiful view of Peak13160 was back to the S as sunlight began reaching the road.
Peak 13160 (Center). Photo looks S.
The second ford appeared at 10,700 feet, less than 0.75 mile beyond the first one. This ford was no big deal, yet neither SPHP nor Lupe wanted to get wet again. Here, there actually was a slippery log just upstream. Hanging onto tree branches, SPHP managed to cross without incident. Lupe easily raced across the log without any such assistance.
Second Nellie Creek ford at 10,700 feet. Photo looks N.The fortunately not-too-slippery log (L) beyond Lupe.
Nellie Creek dealt with for the final time, it was now possible enjoy the rest of the increasingly scenic road hike to the trailhead. Before long, Peak13106 came into view ahead.
Nellie Creek and Peak 13106 (R of Center) from USFS Road No. 877. Photo looks N.
6-23-23, 9:27 AM – After passing an outhouse, Lupe finally reached the Nellie Creek trailhead at the upper end of USFS Road No. 877. Rather surprisingly, only a single gray ATV was at the parking lot, and not a soul was around. However, quite a bit of information was posted at the start of Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239. SPHP paused to take a look.
Arriving at the Nellie Creek trailhead. Peak 13016 (R). Photo looks N.Only a single gray ATV was at the parking lot. Photo looks NNW.Start of Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239. Peak 13106 (Center). Photo looks N.Close up of the signage.By the trailhead displays.Trail map.Three dimensional route view.Trail statistics.
Does it say anything interesting, SPHP?
About what I expected, Loop. At least it confirms that there’s a trail to the top.
Pressing on, Uncompaghre Peak Trail No. 239 continued up the valley. At first, Nellie Creek was out of sight off to the SW as Lupe trotted along a forested stretch. Upon reaching the edge of the forest 0.25 mile from the trailhead, SPHP dumped the pack and sat down. The Carolina Dog laid down, too.
How are your paws faring, SPHP?
Surprisingly well, Loop. Thanks for asking! Now if only my lungs, heart, and legs felt more ambitious, we’d be in business. Hungry yet?
Not really. I’m fine, SPHP.
Suit yourself. Think I’ll have a little something.
A fruit cup hit the spot, without causing much further delay. The trail went on, and so did the American Dingo. Nellie Creek was soon nearby again, still a fast-flowing, rough and tumble stream, but much smaller up here. As Lupe closed in on treeline near 11,700 feet, views were starting to open up. Porous boulders full of air pockets were along the trail as snowfields appeared on high ridges ahead.
Getting close to treeline on Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239. Photo looks NW.
Before long, an enormous crag was in sight off to the W.
Must be, or at least part of it, Loopster. It’s in the right direction.
First view of Uncompaghre Peak (R of Center). Photo looks W.
As the trail and Nellie Creek valley both turned toward the crag, some truly magnificent territory came into view.
Upper Nellie Creek valley. Uncompaghre Peak (R). Photo looks W.
Wow! This is going to be an awesome day, SPHP!
Gotta love this! Don’t ya, sweet puppy?
No. 239 soon crossed a small tributary of Nellie Creek at a flat mucky spot full of soft, gravelly sand. A little beyond this side creek, the trail switchbacked up a steep, 50 foot high bank to the N. Near the top, Lupe had to leave the trail to find a spot where she could scramble up onto a long snowbank clinging to the bank’s upper rim.
At the soft spot where another small stream joins Nellie Creek. Photo looks SW.On the snowbank. Photo looks W.
Reaching the top of the bank, a junction with Trail No. 232, which snaked N up the steep W flank of Peak13106 on its way to Big Blue Creek, was nearby. Looked interesting, but to the W, Uncompahgre Peak beckoned beneath a deep blue sky beyond scattered dark conifers and brilliant white snowfields.
Dingo paradise is this way, SPHP!
Uncompahgre Peak from the junction with Big Blue Creek Trail No. 232.Junction signage.
So it is! Hang on for just a moment, though, Looper. This sign is loose.
SPHP managed to hand-tighten only one of the 2 nuts fastening the sign to the post. The other one wouldn’t budge on the bolt.
Eh, better than it, was. Onward! Puppy, ho!
W of the junction with Big Bear Creek Trail No. 232, Lupe and SPHP both enjoyed a relatively long, flat stretch along Uncompaghre Creek Trail No. 239. Beyond the last stands of conifers, an awesome region of tundra and snowfields was ahead. Lupe had a blast racing across the open ground as pikas and marmots whistled warnings on all sides.
In Dingo Paradise!
Inevitably, the flat stretch gave way to a steady trudge higher. Lupe crossed one snowfield after another separated by tundra. No. 239 was often muddy where it wasn’t buried beneath the snow.
Heading up one of the snowfields. Photo looks SW.
6-23-23, 12:01 PM, 50ºF – The topo map showed a spring N of the trail near 12,620 feet. At a flat region of relatively dry tundra somewhat above and SW of this spring, SPHP was ready for another break. Lupe was starving. After eagerly gobbling some Taste of the Wild, she laid down next to SPHP. A cool, 10-15 mph SW breeze swept the open plain.
Uncompaghre Peak (R) from the break spot at 12,650 feet. Photo looks W.
Two people separated by a little distance were now in sight coming down the next snowfield, the only people Lupe had seen on paw all day. Loners, they soon walked by one at a time. Neither said a word.
Hmm. Well, let’s keep going, SPHP!
On the way up that next snowfield the trail turned S, and 3 more people appeared, also already on their way down. Young and laughing, they greeted Lupe warmly before moving on with a warning:
It’s really windy up on the ridge! No so bad at the summit, though!
Reaching the top of this snowfield, more were ahead. Peak13158 was in sight as Lupe climbed toward the crest of Uncompahgre Peak’s SE ridge.
Peak 13158 (L). Photo looks SSE.
After ascending several more snowfields, Lupe reached another trail junction just as she gained the ridgeline. Matterhorn Creek Trail No. 233 veered off to the L here.
Those young people were right! A relentless 40 mph gale roared over the crest of the ridge from out of the WSW. Curving practically straight into the teeth of it, Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239 left the junction turning due W. Ahead, a long series of steps climbed toward a rounded hill hundreds of feet higher.
At the junction with Matterhorn Creek Trail No. 233. Peak 13158 (L). Photo looks SE.Junction signage.The windy march higher. Photo looks W.
2 young men were coming down the steps. One recognized Lupe.
Hey! We know you! You were coming up when we were on our way down over at San Luis Peak 2 days ago, too!
Pausing to chat with SPHP, the men pointed NW toward the steep upper ridge forming the L shoulder of the crag, warning that the trail got kinda scrambly beyond it. Then off they went, too, continuing down the steps.
“Kinda scrambly”, what’s that supposed to mean, SPHP?
Don’t know, Loopster, but coming from a couple of young guys in great shape, I don’t much like the sound of it.
No. 239 curved NW before getting all the way to the top of the hill. A helpful development, because it put Lupe below the crest of the ridge again, partially protected from the full force of the gale. Still pretty windy, but this wasn’t a bad place to take another short break.
At the break spot partially protected from the wind. Photo looks NW.
Almost immediately, Lupe spotted 2 women coming down. Their outfits flapping wildly in the breeze, they offered another bit of advice as they went right on by without stopping:
Be careful up there!
Sheesh! Are we late for some kind of convention on Uncompahgre Peak that just broke up a little bit ago, Loop? Saw no one at all for hours, but now there’s a steady stream of people coming down.
Never mind that, SPHP. What kind of a trail is this? “Kinda scrambly!” “Be careful!” And look at that crag we’re heading for!
I know it! Thought this was supposed to be Class 2, no big deal, Loopster. Starting to get paranoid, though. C’mon! Onward! Puppy, ho! Before we get any more good news.
SPHP was wrong about getting any more news, though. Lupe wouldn’t see anyone else the rest of the day.
Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239 climbed back up onto the ridge again. Passing NE of several high points, the wind sounded terrible as it shot through wide gaps between them where stunning views to the W were framed by gigantic cliffs.
Both Wetterhorn Peak(14,015 ft.) and Matterhorn Peak(13,590 ft.) were out there only 2 or 3 miles away, along with an enormous amount of snow for late June.
The snowy scene from the crest of Uncompahgre Peak’s SE ridge. Photo looks WSW.Wetterhorn Peak (Center), Matterhorn Peak (R). Photo looks W.
Approaching the steep slope below the upper ridge comprising the L shoulder of the crag, confidence returned. A few big switchbacks went right up it. Cake! The only question was what the American Dingo would see from the top.
Approaching the upper L shoulder (L of Center) of the crag. Photo looks NW.View from the last windy window between high points. Wetterhorn Peak (R of Center). Photo looks W.
The switchbacks were easy, but near the top, SPHP’s paranoia returned.
Careful, Loopster! Stay close. Might be cliffs! No telling what we’ll see.
As soon as Lupe regained the ridgeline, the full force of the gale out of the W struck her again. Ahead, Trail No. 239 extended a short distance beyond the ridge before curling out of sight to the R. Cautiously making this turn, what came into view next was entirely different from what the rest of the trail had been like.
An already spectacular, unobstructed panoramic view of a vast region of snowy peaks and highlands was off to the SW. However, that wasn’t of immediate importance. Ahead, the terrain consisted of a steep talus slope that dropped many hundreds of feet. Traversing the talus and a snowfield, the trail headed toward columns of bedrock jutting skyward near the top of the slope.
Must be some way up between these columns, SPHP. C’mon!
On the talus slope beyond the crag’s L shoulder. Photo looks NNW.
After passing a rock formation, the route up became apparent. Trail No. 239 turned N straight up a very steep slope of loose soil and rock.
We’ve reached the “kinda scrambly” part, SPHP!
Yeah. Looks doable, Loopster, but I hope it doesn’t go on like this much above what we can see from here.
Carolina Dogs are natural scramblers. Lupe was clearly enjoying herself as SPHP toiled carefully after her, sending rocks clattering down the slope with nearly every step.
The scramble begins! Photo looks NNW.Heading up the loose stuff. Photo looks NNE.Getting close to the top. Photo looks NE.
The route was steep enough to merit caution, but wasn’t too bad. After a 70 foot climb, it angled toward the E. As the terrain began leveling out again, Lupe rediscovered a distinct trail, which curved N, then back to the NNW among rock formations.
Rounding this corner, it was clear that Uncompahgre’s summit couldn’t be much farther. After crossing a small snowfield, a final, modest talus ridge was in sight beyond a rock-strewn plain.
Above the scramble, back on Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239. Photo looks NNW.Approaching the final short, rocky ascent. Photo looks NNW.
Heading straight for a last line of cliffs along the SW face of the summit region, Trail No. 239 swept around to the NE, bypassing them once Lupe got close. A relatively short rocky climb got the American Dingo to a summit plateau hundreds of feet wide that sloped up toward the NW.
Below the last cliffs. Trail No. 239 angled NE (R), bypassing them. Photo looks NNW.On Uncompahgre’s summit plateau. Photo looks NW.
6-23-23, 3:32 PM, Uncompahgre Peak(14,309 ft.) – The weary trudge higher was over! Along a ragged N edge, Lupe stood calmly at the brink of cataclysmic cliffs on a boulder that appeared to be Uncompaghre’s true summit. Beyond her, a couple more high points in contention for the honor were in sight, and several miles beyond them rose a line of dramatic, snow-bearing peaks.
At Uncompahgre Peak’s true summit. Coxcomb Peak (far L), Redcliff (L), Precipice Peak (R), Dunsinane Mountain (far R). Photo looks NW.Wetterhorn Peak (R) with Matterhorn Peak (R) in the foreground. Photo looks WSW.
Holy smokers, Loopster! We actually made it! Uncompaghre! Can you believe it?
Shoot, this wasn’t so bad, SPHP. One little scramble! Nothing to it, if we could have started at the Nellie Creek trailhead, and skipped 2,000 feet of extra elevation gain.
Yeah, well, partly due to that extra 2,000 feet, I’m absolutely beat! Let me shake your paw, and let’s find a spot to sit down where it isn’t so dang windy.
Really wasn’t anywhere out of the wind up here, but finding a patch of tundra where Lupe could lay down in relative comfort near a group of boulders SW of the true summit, an attempt to use them as windbreaks provided at least some relief. Happily, at only 15-20 mph out of the W, the wind wasn’t nearly as bad as here as it had been on the SE ridge.
Exhausted, neither Lupe nor SPHP stirred, merely sitting there snacking while enjoying the stupendous views. Far to the ESE, SPHP was able to pick out Stewart Peak(13,983 ft.), Organ Mountain(13,801 ft.), and San Luis Peak(14,014 ft.), where Lupe had been just 2 days ago. From the true summit, the American Dingo had already seen that the territory to the N was much lower, except for a snow-capped range on the distant horizon.
The best views were to the S or W looking into the heart of the San Juan Range where an incredible amount of snow was still present. Above all, that snowy wilderness of jagged peaks to the WSW beyond spectacular Wetterhorn Peak(14,015 ft.) was an absolute jaw-dropper.
Wetterhorn Peak (R) with Matterhorn Peak (R) in the foreground. Photo looks WSW with help from the telephoto lens.
Sort of reminds me of being on Peak 6053 looking into Alaska, SPHP!
Yeah. Hard to believe we’re in southern Colorado right after the summer solstice, Loop.
6-23-23, 4:34 PM, 54ºF – The beef jerky supply wiped out entirely by the ravenous American Dingo, energy was returning as Lupe’s traditional summit hour ended. No rush to leave yet, though, since other than the ever-present annoying wind, conditions remained near perfect. Besides, it was picture time!
For the next half an hour, Lupe and SPHP wandered back and forth over the summit region, staying mostly among the various high points strung out along the N edge, while admiring the splendid views in all directions.
Precipice Peak (L), and Dunsinane Mountain (L of Center). E fork of the Cimmaron River valley (R). Photo looks NW.Along the W edge. Broken Hill(13,256 ft.) (Center) in the foreground. Photo looks S.HP13052 (L) in the foreground. Wetterhorn Peak and Matterhorn Peak (far R). Photo looks SW.American Flats (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.Back along the N edge. Photo looks ESE.
3 high points of nearly equal elevation were along the N edge. The one farthest E was the true summit. The middle high point featured a small cross, which was its claim to fame. However, it was the high point clear out at the NW end that provided the most dramatic perch. Lupe visited it several times.
The cross (R) at the middle high point (L) along the N edge. Photo looks NE.On the NW high point. Fortress Peak(13,241 ft.) (Center), Precipice Peak (R), Dunsinane Peak (far R). Photo looks NW.Wetterhorn Peak (L) beyond Matterhorn Peak. Photo looks W.
5:01 PM, Uncompahgre Peak, NW high point – Sadly, it was time. From this airy perch, SPHP started Lupe’s descent GPS track nearly 1.5 hours after she’d arrived at the true summit. Going right past the true summit for the final time, the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the highest rocks once again.
Final moments at Uncompahgre Peak’s true summit. Photo looks NW.
SPHP never found a registry or a survey benchmark, but on a collection of rocks only a bit E of the true summit, discovered a directional marker as Lupe departed.
Uncompahgre directional marker.
A last look around, and it was Onward! Puppy, ho!
It was a long way back. Tragedy struck during the scramble’s descent when a rock fell, smashing SPHP’s R pinky toe. Fortunately, not broken, but painful nonetheless. Down on the SE ridge, the wind was as terrible as ever, but conditions improved steadily below it. On this gorgeous evening, Lupe had a grand time exploring the open country on the way back to Nellie Creek.
Heading back to Nellie Creek. Photo looks ENE.
The “slippery log” worked a second time at the upper ford. Arriving at the lower ford at dusk, the American Dingo refused to plunge into the fearsome, frigid stream again in the growing gloom. Sitting on a bank beyond SPHP’s reach, she refused to come down.
In the end, there was no other way. Leashed up, once into the stream, Lupe practically drug SPHP across in her eagerness to reach the safety of the far bank.
6-23-23, 10:20 PM – SPHP’s long hobble on the sore toe ended as the Carolina Dog leapt into the RAV4 and up onto her pink blanket. What a day it had been! Uncompahgre Peak had been awesome, entirely worth it! For the 3rd time on this Dingo Vacation, Lupe had set a new personal record for the 3rd highest mountain she’d ever climbed, coming within 124 vertical feet of her all-time best at Mount Elbert nearly 8 years ago.
Trying to sleep despite the throbbing toe, SPHP couldn’t help wondering if Lupe would ever again be on such a lofty perch as glorious, fabulous Uncompahgre Peak(14,309 ft.)?
On Uncompahgre Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado 6-23-23
