East Glacier Gap Mountain, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (8-28-19)

Day 24 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-27-19, evening at the Glacier Gap to Sevenmile Lake trailhead, Denali Highway MP 31 –

So what does it say, SPHP?

Hah!  Good news, lucky Dingo!  Says here that the trail goes all the way to Sevenmile Mile Lake.  8.5 miles one way.  The only caveat is that we have to be able to get across Rock Creek, a big stream 0.25 mile from here.  Hopefully not a problem this time of year.

Awesome!  We’ll get to see Sevenmile Lake then!

Oh, I think so!  Should be an easy, absolutely beautiful trek.

Info posted at the Glacier Gap to Sevenmile Lake trailhead.

Wasn’t going to happen until tomorrow, of course.  A fabulous evening to relax right here at the trailhead, though!  Lupe had her Alpo, then eyed SPHP’s beef stew.  Oh, alright!  In nothing flat, the Carolina Dog polished off the beef stew, too.  So much for dinner, aye?  SPHP wandered over to read a plaque about the Tangle Lakes Archeological District while Loop sniffed around among the bushes.

Tangle Lakes Archeological District plaque.
Glacier Gap (L) from the trailhead. Photo looks N.

Hey, SPHP!  Check out that mountain!

Which one?

The one just E of Glacier Gap.  What do you think?

It’s lovely, Loop.  Tomorrow morning you’ll get to see it up close.  The trail will take us right by it on the way to Glacier Gap.

It’s pretty big, but doesn’t look that hard, does it?  Do you think we could see Sevenmile Lake from up there?

East Glacier Gap Mountain. Photo looks N.

The more SPHP stared at East Glacier Gap Mountain (6,060 ft.), the more it seemed Lupe was right!  Didn’t look like a technical climb at all.  A big S slope right in the middle of the mountain looked perfectly doable.  Just stroll on up!

You might be right, Loop!  Let me take another look at that map again.

The trailhead map showed the trail getting fairly close to the base of the mountain.  If SPHP could get through the bushy region by the trail up to the rocks, there didn’t appear to be any other obstacles to success.  The mountain had two summits both contained in 6,000 ft. contours.  Only the E summit had an elevation shown – 6,050 ft.  Maybe that indicated it was the true summit?

Looks feasible, Looper!  That mountain is still a few miles from Sevenmile Lake, though.  We could probably see the middle part of the lake from up there, but not the whole thing.  Want to climb the mountain instead of just taking the trail all the way to Sevenmile Lake?

Yes, let’s do it!

The sky cleared as darkness fell.  A good omen!

8-28-19, 7:21 AM, 35ºF at the Glacier Gap to Sevenmile Lake trailhead –  Sigh.  A mere 3 hours ago, a slender crescent moon had hung low in the E sky, stars of the northern universe brilliant overhead.  Cloudy out now, although not threatening.  Still some blue stuff off to the NW.

Good enough!  East Glacier Gap Mountain was a go.  Loopster was ready!  She hit the nice wide ATV or jeep route that left the trailhead heading NE.  A gradual 0.25 mile descent soon brought the American Dingo to Rock Creek.

Looper about to leave the trailhead. Photo looks NE.
Glacier Gap to Sevenmile Lake trail.
Approaching Rock Creek. Photo looks NE.

The Rock Creek stream bed was 100 feet wide.  Luckily only a fraction of it held flowing water.  Even better, most of what water there was sank underground 200 feet downstream.  Barely even a rock hop today.  Lupe and SPHP were both across in nothing flat.

Crossing Rock Creek. West Glacier Gap Mountain (6,050 ft.) (R). Photo looks NW.

Beyond Rock Creek, the ATV trail was quite level as it continued NE.  After a bit, the trail turned N.  The terrain was slightly higher off to the E, so Lupe couldn’t see much that way.  However, several big ponds were visible scattered across low-lying grasslands to the W.

Near the lowlands. West Glacier Gap Mountain (R). Photo looks NW.

Now headed toward East Glacier Gap Mountain, the trail slowly gained elevation.  The morning sun broke through the clouds illuminating the fabulously colorful terrain.  Lupe got up on a small ridge paralleling the trail.  The top of the little ridge was a bit rocky and sparsely vegetated.  The brilliant blood reds of the tundra were simply incredible!

Heading for East Glacier Gap Mountain. Photo looks N.
Peak 4850 on Whistle Ridge (Center) from the small ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Peak 4716 (Center) at the far W end of Whistle Ridge (L). Photo looks WSW.

By the time the little ridge played out, the ATV trail was curving W.  Loop could see another very similar ridge in that direction that was a larger version of the one she had just followed.  The Glacier Gap to Sevenmile Lake trail swept right around the S end of it.  The bigger ridge appeared to provide a great off-trail route to get closer to the base of East Glacier Gap Mountain while avoiding the dense bushes.

The ATV trail turns W. Lupe got back on it to reach the low ridge (R) in the foreground. She then turned N (R) following that ridge. Photo looks W.

This plan worked beautifully!  Briefly returning to the Glacier Gap to Sevenmile Lake trail, Lupe followed it over to the bigger ridge.  She then left the trail to climb up onto the ridge and follow it N.  The American Dingo was soon gaining elevation at an ever faster clip as she closed in on East Glacier Gap Mountain (6,060 ft.).

Heading up the bigger ridge. East Glacier Gap Mountain dead ahead! Photo looks N.

Back to the S were beautiful views of Whistle Ridge where Lupe had been yesterday.  She could see the whole thing, all the way from Peak 4716 at the W end to Peak 4850 and HP4757 at the E end.

Whistle Ridge. Peak 4716 (R). Photo looks SW.
HP4757 (straight up from Lupe) and Peak 4850 just to the R of it. Photo looks SSW.
Climbing faster. Glacier Gap (L). East Glacier Gap Mountain (R). Photo looks NNW.
The S end of Glacier Gap Lake (Center) comes into view. Peak 4716 (L). Photo looks W.

By the time this second ridge ended, Lupe was more or less already at the base of East Glacier Gap Mountain.  She dropped down a little into a wide, shallow valley full of bushes and tufty grasses.  Enough open area was present to easily avoid the bushes.  While SPHP trudged higher, Loopster had a blast exploring as she roamed ahead.

At the base of the mountain. Photo looks N.
A little higher now. Photo looks N.
Roaming the wide shallow valley. Lupe avoided the steep rocky valley seen on the R, staying well E (R) of it. The knob on the L is HP4660. Photo looks NW.

After following the shallow valley higher for some distance, Lupe left it to start climbing more steeply up a rumpled region of moderately steep slopes.  Separated by benches and ramps, each rise got the Carolina Dog 50 to 100 feet higher.  Before long, Lupe was above bush line in a world of tundra and rock.

Starting up a series of slopes and benches. Photo looks N.
On a large bench. Photo looks E.
Taking a break. Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.) (Center). Photo looks SE.
Heading up a ramp. Photo looks NE.
Glancing back. Peak 4716 (Center) beyond the S end of Glacier Gap Lake. Photo looks SW.

Toward the end, Lupe came to two particularly large benches.  From the second bench, a steep golden ramp went N directly up the mountain.  This was the steepest part of the entire ascent.  The golden ramp was longer than it looked from below.

Ascending the golden ramp. Photo looks N.

Above the golden ramp, the tundra started to fail.  The terrain remained quite steep and became increasingly rocky.

Above the golden ramp. Photo looks N.

The slope finally decreased somewhat.  Lupe was at least halfway up East Glacier Gap Mountain by now.  A long rocky climb was still ahead.  The ground was rough, but it was clear nothing was going to prevent the American Dingo from getting to the top!  Loopster headed for the saddle between the E and W summits.

Still a long march higher to the saddle (Center) between the 2 summits. Photo looks N.
All of Whistle Ridge is in sight. Peak 4850 (L) and Peak 4716 (R). S end of Glacier Gap Lake (R). Photo looks SW.
West Glacier Gap Mountain (Center) beyond Glacier Gap. Photo looks NW.
East Glacier Gap Mountain’s W summit (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks N.

Nearing the ridgeline, Lupe veered a little E of the saddle.  Nothing but rock the rest of the way!

Approaching the summit ridge. Photo looks NNE.

The Carolina Dog reached the ridgeline a short distance E of the saddle, but well above it.  Her ascent from the S had been a straightforward non-technical feat.  The N face of the mountain was shockingly different.  Tremendous jagged cliffs plunged into a deep valley.

Looking E, a rugged ridgeline rose along the brink of fearsome drops.  Cliffs extended all the way along the N face clear over to the W summit, too.  However, it was plain that Lupe wouldn’t have a problem getting to the W summit if she stayed just a little S of the ridgeline.  Several miles to the NNW was a sight Lupe had come to see.

Look, SPHP!  That’s got to be Sevenmile Lake, doesn’t it?

Yup, yup.  The middle of it anyway.  We’re only seeing about 1/3 of it from here, but what a vantage point!

On the ridgeline. The E summit is the most distant point at Center. Photo looks E.
Gazing NE at Peak 6100 (Center).
W summit (L). Sevenmile Lake (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.
Part of Sevenmile Lake (L) and the mountains beyond it. Cumberland Peak (8,900 ft.) (L of Center). Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Time for a break!  Rock everywhere.  Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap.  The views were tremendous.  Incredible here, but SPHP soon became leery of clouds gathering both to the SW and NW.  Getting to both summits was going to take a while.  Better not relax too long.

20 minutes after reaching the ridgeline, Loop was ready to press on.  Which summit first?  Sometimes right on top of the ridge, but generally staying a little S of it, the Carolina Dog headed E.

First objective: The E summit (Center). Photo looks E.
Loop on the way E. Photo looks E.

200 feet higher, if that.  Skirting along the S side of the ridge worked fine.  Rocky the entire way, but most of the time travel was relatively easy.  Really wasn’t that far.  Soon Lupe was approaching the E summit.

Almost there! Photo looks NE.

The E summit of East Glacier Gap Mountain (6,060 ft.) was smallish.  A rough, flat area jutted out to the N.  On a boulder near the N edge sat a cairn of 4 greenish stones splashed with white.  Huge cliffs surrounded the cairn in all directions except S.  The highest natural point was a large rock standing on end 15 feet S of the cairn.

Loopster at East Glacier Gap Mountain’s E summit. W summit (far L). Sevenmile Lake (Center). Photo looks NNW.
Propped up against the highest natural rock. Peak 6100 (L). Photo looks NE.

To the E was a line of rugged peaks.  The same to the W.  It was hard to tell which of East Glacier Gap Mountain’s summits was highest.  The E summit where Lupe was now seemed a tad higher, but the W summit was more than 0.5 mile away, and that might have been an illusion.

Peak 6200 (Center). Photo looks ESE.
West Glacier Gap Mountain (6,200 ft.) (Center). East Glacier Gap Mountain’s W summit (R of Center) is in the foreground. Photo looks WNW.

The air was hazy to the S, so the views weren’t as impressive.  Whistle Ridge and  Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.) both looked small from here.

Swede Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.
Whistle Ridge (L). S end of Glacier Gap Lake (Center). Photo looks SW.

The scene to the N was the real attention grabber.  A precipitous plunge ended down in a huge valley that drained NW toward Sevenmile Lake.  Beyond the lake was another line of peaks somewhat lower than East Glacier Gap Mountain, but Lupe could see over them to a mightier snow-clad range harboring many snowfields and glaciers.  Cumberland Peak (8,900 ft.) and Peak 8927 stood out from the rest.

Sevenmile Lake (Center) and Cumberland Peak (far R). Photo looks NNW.
Cumberland Peak with lots of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNW.
Peak 8927 (L). Photo looks N.

The weather seemed to be holding.  For a while Lupe dozed, her head resting on SPHP’s lap.  Grandeur all around!

Peak 6100 (L). Photo looks NE.

More than an hour passed.  The American Dingo still had a W summit to get to!  Lupe returned to both the cairn and the rock that was the natural high point.  She even explored a little way down the SE slope, going far enough to see East Glacier Gap Mountain’s entire SE ridge.

Back at the E summit cairn. Photo looks NNW.
By the natural high point. Photo looks N.
East Glacier Gap Mountain’s SE ridge (Center), which wasn’t entirely visible from the summit. Peak 6200 (L). Swede Mountain (R) in the distance. Photo looks SE.

Puppy ho!  Onward!  Abandoning the glorious E summit, Lupe headed back W.

Heading W. W summit (far R). West Glacier Gap Mountain (R). Glacier Gap Lake (L) with Peak 4716 of Whistle Ridge beyond it. Photo looks W.
W summit (L) and Sevenmile Lake (Center) from the ridgeline. Photo looks NNW.
Looking down the long slope Loopster had come up. Glacier Gap Lake (R) with many smaller lakes and Whistle Ridge beyond. Photo looks SW.
Approaching the saddle leading to the W summit (L). Photo looks NNW.

The saddle leading to the W summit harbored a large snowbank.  Lupe did not cross it, but went around well to the S, since the ground close to the snow was soft and mucky.  The terrain turned rocky and firm as soon as she started to climb.

Getting up to the W summit was easier than getting to the E summit had been.  Lanes of tundra helped smooth the way.  The climb was steepest near the start, but not difficult.  The tundra had disappeared by the time Lupe reached a rough level area leading to a little hill.

Almost there! W summit just ahead. Photo looks NNW.

The W summit was a flat-topped knob encompassing an area about the same size as a large room in a house.  Much larger than that, if the only slightly lower part of the ridge Loop crossed on her final approach was included.  Some of the highest rocks were nice and flat.  Several small cairns were present.

With the gargantuan cliffs only to the N and NE here, the W summit felt far less exposed than the E one had.  Looking back, it was still hard to say which summit was highest.

East Glacier Gap Mountain’s E summit (Center) from the W one. Photo looks SE.

The views here were perhaps even a little more fabulous than they had been back at the E summit.  Lupe was a more than 0.5 mile closer to both Sevenmile Lake and Glacier Gap Lake.  SPHP was somewhat surprised Loop couldn’t quite see all of Glacier Gap Lake or Glacier Gap itself.

Sevenmile Lake (R) from the W summit. Photo looks NW.
Glacier Gap Lake. Photo looks SW.
West Glacier Gap Mountain (L). Photo looks NW.

It was sunny when Lupe arrived at the W summit, but that wasn’t going to last.  The darkest clouds yet now seemed to be heading this way out of the NW.  Rain seemed possible.  While she still had the opportunity, Loop basked in sunshine with a tremendous view of Sevenmile Lake, which was already in shadow.

Relaxing at the W summit. Photo looks NNW.
Cumberland Peak. Photo looks NNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Peak 6100 (L), Peak 6200 (Center) and East Glacier Gap Mountain’s E summit (R). Photo looks SE.

Half an hour shot by.

How you feeling, Looper?

Good, although these rocks aren’t as comfy as they might be.

Not terribly surprising.  Most rocks aren’t.  Feel up to exploring the NW ridge?

I suppose.  Any particular reason?

Yeah.  I’d kind of like to go far enough to see Glacier Gap and all of Glacier Gap Lake.

Oh, we ought to do that!  Sounds like fun, if it’s not too far!

Shouldn’t be.  Come on!

East Glacier Gap Mountain’s NW ridge from the W summit. Photo looks NW.

It was farther than it looked.  Despite oncoming clouds, Lupe led the way exploring the NW ridge.  Conditions deteriorated, but thankfully it didn’t rain.  However, the ridge went on and on down a series of drops.  At the end of each fairly level stretch, SPHP kept expecting to be able to peer down into Glacier Gap.  Loop must have lost a good 300 feet of elevation before it finally happened.

Exploring the NW ridge. Photo looks NW.

Oh, it was all worth it!  Lupe had reached a point where the mountain now dropped off so steeply that she could see all of Glacier Gap Lake.  Glacier Gap itself was in sight, too, the whole thing from Glacier Gap Lake all the way to Sevenmile Lake.  The Carolina Dog could even see the ATV trail she would have taken to Sevenmile Lake today, if she hadn’t climbed East Glacier Gap Mountain instead.

Glacier Gap Lake. Photo looks SW.
Sevenmile Lake. Photo looks NNW.
Looking down on Glacier Gap. Photo looks WNW.

15 glorious minutes, then it was time to head back up to the W summit.  Another brief pause there, and Loop was on her way back to the saddle between the two summits.

Heading back up the NW ridge. Photo looks SE.
Back on the W summit.

Approaching the saddle, Lupe turned SW heading down the mountain.  Never did rain.  The sun broke through.  What a beautiful evening!  Such a splendid peak and scenes of grandeur!

Early part of the descent. All of Whistle Ridge on display. Glacier Gap Lake (R). Photo looks SW.

The descent was pure fun until SPHP’s big mistake.  Instead of going down the golden ramp, SPHP led Lupe farther W down the big gash in the mountain that had been purposely avoided on the way up.  Right the first time!  The gash was an endless, steep jumble of large rocks.

Going down the gash. Not a good choice. Photo looks SW.

Lupe was thrilled to finally reach the bottom.  Soft tundra, grass, bushes!  The Carolina Dog raced off to sniff and explore on her own.  Now and then a marmot whistled revealing her approximate location.

One more thing to do!  At the base of East Glacier Gap Mountain, Lupe turned W passing over a low ridge.  And there was Glacier Gap Lake.

Glacier Gap Lake. Photo looks NW.
Very pretty, wouldn’t you say?

Heading down a bushy slope, Lupe made it to the ATV trail not far from the shore.  4 awesome miles back to the trailhead.

The American Dingo never did go quite all the way down to the shore of Glacier Gap Lake or travel through Glacier Gap to Sevenmile Lake.  Yet she did see beautiful Glacier Gap Lake up close, and she got to peer through Glacier Gap to a land where adventure still beckons.

And of course, Loopster had also seen it all from on high up on fabulous East Glacier Gap Mountain (6,060 ft.)(End 8:28 PM, 50ºF)

Glacier Gap. Photo looks N.
East Glacier Gap Mountain, Amphitheater Range, Alaska 8-28-19

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The Denali Highway

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Whistle Ridge, Alaska (8-27-19)

Day 23 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Maclaren River, Denali Highway MP 40. Photo looks N.

Early on the Denali Highway after crossing the Maclaren River – Ai-yi-yi!  The Carolina Dog was having a conniption fit!  Directly ahead, 3 caribou trotted away right in front of the G6, steadfastly refusing to leave the road.  What was wrong with these caribou, anyway?  Were they deaf?

The excitement was more than a Dingo could bear!  For a tortuously slow mile, complete pandemonium reigned in the G6.  By the time the caribou finally had sense enough to abandon the highway for the bush, Lupe was a complete foaming-at-the-mouth frazzle.

Nothing like a little excitement to start the day, aye, Looper?

For pity sake, SPHP!  Why didn’t you gun it, and run over those caribou?  So easy!  We would have been up to our necks in caribou steaks the rest of this Dingo Vacation!

No hunting license, Loop.

You didn’t need one!  You’ve got a driver’s license, right?

Of course.

Well, then use it!

No amount of explaining was going to make any difference, so SPHP changed the subject.

Maclaren Summit is just ahead.  As soon as we get there, Whistle Ridge will be right around the corner.

Oh, are we going to explore Whistle Ridge, SPHP?

Yup.  It’s a little different from Crazy Notch Ridge (4233 ft.) yesterday.  Two separate summits, Peak 4716 and Peak 4850, 4 or 5 miles apart.

Are we peakbagging Peak 4850 then, since it’s the highest?

Both actually, since they are real close to the highway.  We’ll come to Peak 4716 first.  After that, we’ll just drive to Peak 4850.  Easier than trying to travel the entire ridge and back.

9:44 AM, 45ºF, pullout on the N side of the Denali Highway at MP 35.2 –  Looked simple enough.  The N face of Peak 4716 was directly across the highway from where the G6 was parked.  A moderately steep slope led up to an unseen summit some 650+ feet higher.  Cake!  Lupe crossed the highway, scrambled up an embankment, and was on her way.

The N face of Peak 4716 from the Denali Highway pullout at MP 35.2. Photo looks S.

By angling SW, the American Dingo was able to avoid a bushy region.  Climbing steadily, Lupe headed for the top of the mountain’s NW ridge.  The slope went from mostly grass to tundra, then rock.  In less than 10 minutes, it appeared she was on the verge of reaching the ridgeline.

Well, that was easy! Photo looks SW.

Not true.  Upon reaching the supposed ridgeline, a rockier slope that wasn’t as steep as what Loop had just climbed led to another apparent ridgeline higher yet.  Onward!  Loopster kept going.

Heading higher. Photo looks SE.

This time when Lupe got to the top, she really was up on Peak 4716’s NW ridge.  Turning SE toward the summit, she traveled a broad slope higher, eventually arriving at a big shelf partially occupied by bushes.

Approaching the bushes on the first big shelf. Photo looks SE.

Toward the N (L), there were fewer bushes.  Loop got through without difficulty.  A 30 to 40 foot high embankment comprised almost entirely of rock was next.  Climbing it, she came to another big shelf.  This one was more barren than the one below.  Hardly any bushes, just hillocky grasses and tundra.

On the second big shelf. Photo looks SE.

Again a rocky climb was ahead, but the summit couldn’t be too much farther.  Lupe scrambled the rocky slopes, crossing a smaller bench or two on the way.  Soon she was at the top.

Before her was a huge circular-shaped summit region, perhaps 10 acres in size, elongated and somewhat lower to the SE.  The terrain was open and flat.  Low grasses, tundra, and blocky-shaped rocks of moderate size dominated the landscape.

Loop had come up at the NW end.  The topo map showed a “Boulder” survey benchmark somewhere out in the middle.  The Carolina Dog wandered out there, sniffing around the highest ground, but neither she nor SPHP encountered any sign of a marker.

Searching for the Boulder survey benchmark on Peak 4716. Photo looks ESE.

Might be anywhere, or completely gone.  2 rusty cans and a piece of wire were all that turned up.  The summit was so vast, SPHP was soon ready to forget it.  May as well take a break.  Loopster wanted to lay down.  SPHP sat beside her.

Overhead, the sky was blue.  Hardly any of yesterday’s haziness except to the S.  Crazy Notch Ridge (4,233 ft.) where Lupe had such a grand time yesterday looked like a little hill from here.

Looking down Peak 4716’s broad NW ridge. Crazy Notch Ridge (Center) is the little hill with the long ridge extending to the L. Photo looks NW.

20 minutes was enough.  Lupe was ready for action again.  Still keeping an eye out for the Boulder survey benchmark, a counter-clockwise tour of Peak 4716’s summit region commenced.

Lupe’s summit tour started at the NW end. Photo looks S.
“Round” Benchmark (4,797 ft.) (Center) beyond the Maclaren River. Photo looks SW.

Quite a few cairns, seemingly of little significance, were scattered across Peak 4716.  Many of the biggest ones were concentrated along the SW edge.  A few more big ones were farther SE where the summit region was definitely somewhat lower.

Cairns along the SW edge. Photo looks S.
By a big SE cairn. Photo looks NW.

Virtually everywhere to the S and W, a huge expanse of lowlands dotted with numerous small lakes separated Peak 4716 from distant ridges.  At the far SE end of the summit region, Lupe came to a slightly raised grassy spot, which stood out from the rest of the terrain.

At the grassy spot. Photo looks SE.

To the E, the rest of Whistle Ridge stretched away for miles clear over to Peak 4850.  Whistle Ridge seemed small and insignificant compared to the Alaska Range to the N, yet a trek all the way to Peak 4850 from here did look like an appealing march.  Lupe would love it!  For a while, SPHP didn’t rule it out.

Whistle Ridge from Peak 4716. Peak 4850 (R of Center) at the far end. Photo looks E.
Denali Highway (L) and Whistle Ridge (R). Peak 4850 (far R). Photo looks ENE.

Lupe had saved the best for last!  The most spectacular views from Peak 4716 were to the N.  Beyond another flat expanse full of small lakes, lower peaks of the Alaska Range were in sight.  Clouds permitted only tantalizing glimpses of several gleaming white monsters lurking deeper into the range.  Lupe could see part of the Maclaren Glacier, although it was many miles away.

Maclaren Glacier (Center) and the Alaska Range. Photo looks N.
Maclaren Glacier (L). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Oh, for a truly clear day! There were some giant peaks lurking far to the N. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on the Maclaren Glacier (L). Photo looks N.

To the NE, the S end of Glacier Gap Lake was in view.  Off to the NW, Looper could see the Maclaren River valley, Crazy Notch Ridge, and the Clearwater Mountains.

Part of Glacier Gap Lake (L) was in sight. Photo looks NE.
Maclaren River valley beyond Lake 3806 (R). Photo looks NW.
The G6 (lower R) is a mere speck down at the Denali Highway. Photo looks NNW.

Exploring Peak 4716 had been fun, but over an hour had already shot by up at the summit.  The Carolina Dog couldn’t stay.  Peak 4850, the true high point of all of Whistle Ridge was calling!

Lupe started back down the NW slope.  Half an hour later, she was back at the G6.  (12:28 PM)

Back at the Denali Highway MP 35.2. Whistle Ridge (R). Photo looks E.

A relaxing mid-day drive was a nice respite, but even at only 30 mph it wasn’t long before Lupe was approaching the E end of Whistle Ridge.  The Denali Highway curved S, and SPHP parked the G6 down in a big pullout situated below the E side of the road.  This pullout was just S of the MP 30 sign.

Whistle Ridge as Lupe cruised E in the G6.

Peak 4850 was in sight across the Denali Highway, but it was only 12:45 PM, so Lupe had lots of time.  Lunch, then a Dingo nap!  A parade of dump trucks raised dust as they rumbled by carrying loads of gravel for road construction going on somewhere E of here.  One went by every few minutes.

1:54 PM, 53ºF, pullout at MP30 of the Denali Highway NE of Peak 4850 – Oh, it was on again!  Whistle Ridge, Phase 2 commenced.  Crossing the Denali Highway, Lupe traveled S down in a 40 foot wide ditch next to the road where the vegetation appeared to have been disturbed a few years back.  Nearing the point where the highway veered E, she turned SW heading for Peak 4850.

Setting out for Peak 4850. Photo looks SW.

During the first part of the trek, Lupe explored a gently sloping region full of yellow bushes.  The bushes were chest high on SPHP, and tended to concentrate in large stands separated by less dense growth.  Animal trails and the less shrubby areas kept the slow climb easy.

The grade increased as the American Dingo got closer and closer to the base of Whistle Ridge.  Up ahead there was a high point snazzed up by a stand of short orange bushes.  By the time Lupe got there, the terrain had steepened a fair amount.

At Snazzy Orange Bush Ridge, the first landmark on the way up. Photo looks E.

Snazzy Orange Bush Ridge turned out to be just a flat spot at the lower end of a steeper slope going SW up the mountain.  The bushes thinned out as Lupe continued higher.

Heading up the steeper slope above Snazzy Orange Bush Ridge. Photo looks SW.

Looper gained quite a bit of elevation before finally coming to a large grassy amphitheater flanked by steep rock slopes to the S.

Progressing toward the amphitheater. Photo looks SSW.
At the upper end of the grassy amphitheater. Photo looks S.

Following narrow lanes of grass and tundra, Lupe began a steep trudge up the rocky slopes above the amphitheater.  She stuck with the slopes to the SE, which didn’t appear as challenging as those to the SW that went directly up to Peak 4850.

Entering the rocky zone. Photo looks SSE.

Higher and higher!  The views were improving rapidly.  Almost due N was a great view of Glacier Gap Lake.

Glacier Gap Lake (Center) and East Glacier Gap Mountain (R). Photo looks N.

At the last patch of tundra on the way up, Lupe paused for a break.

Taking a breather. Peak 4850 (Center). Photo looks WSW.
Whistle Ridge (L) and Glacier Gap Lake (R) with the Denali Highway between them. Photo looks NW.

A little Taste of the Wild, a little water.  Then onward and upward!  Not much farther now, 50-75 feet?  Nothing but rock the whole way.

Turned out to be somewhat farther than it looked.  Close to the top, Lupe turned WSW.  She came up at the NE end of a huge saddle between two large, flat high points.  Across the wide saddle, the high point to the W was her ultimate destination, Peak 4850.  The American Dingo didn’t venture that way yet, though.  Instead she turned SE.  Climbing another rocky slope a few tens of feet higher, Loop reached the top of a big flat region strewn with rocks and tundra.

This was HP4745, the last major summit at the far E end of Whistle Ridge.  It looked a lot like Peak 4716.  The top was about 10 acres in size, flat yet rough, being even rockier than Peak 4716 had been.  Once again, way over at the far SE end, Lupe could see a small grassy mound unlike anything else up here.  How odd!

Loopster went to see it.

On HP4745, the far E summit of Whistle Ridge. Photo looks SE.

Was the grassy mound even natural?  It didn’t seem to be, although the mound looked undisturbed for a long time.  A cairn sat S of the mound.

On the grassy mound. Photo looks SSW.

HP4745 ‘s grassy mound was bigger than Peak 4716’s grassy spot, but otherwise they were very similar.  Their significance remained unclear.  The only thing for certain was that Lupe liked it here.

Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.) (Center) from the grassy mound. Photo looks SE.
View to the NE. Tangle Benchmark is the distant big knob seen straight up from Loop.
Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) (R) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NE.

The grassy mound was soft and comfortable.  Soon Loop was putting on her best innocent, tired puppy act.  Bleary-eyed she squinted at SPHP as though completely exhausted.  Lupe wanted to be petted and loved, and responded by enthusiastically licking SPHP’s hand.

Who could resist?  She got to stay.

A poor, innocent, super-tired puppy rests on the comfy mound.

Again 20 minutes was enough.  SPHP was still relaxing propped up by the grassy mound, when the American Dingo sprang back to life.

You coming or not? We’ve still got a mountain to climb! Peak 4850 (L). Photo looks WNW.

Alright, already!  Onward then!  Puppy ho!

Before leaving HP4745, Lupe explored over to the NE edge for a look at Glacier Gap Lake, then it was W back to the saddle leading to Peak 4850.

Glacier Gap Lake (Center) from HP4745. Photo looks NNW.
Leaving HP4745 for Peak 4850. Photo looks W.

Crossing the huge saddle didn’t take long, nor did the roughly 150 foot climb up to the top of Peak 4850.

Glancing back at HP4745 (Center) on the way up Peak 4850. Tangle Benchmark (L) and Swede Mountain (R) in the distance. Photo looks E.

Greatly resembling the tops of both Peak 4716 and HP4745, Peak 4850’s summit region looked familiar.  10 or more acres of flat ground covered with rocks and tundra.  No grassy spot or mound, though, to the SE or anywhere else.  Lupe could see two cairns, a big one along the N edge, and a smaller one by the S edge.  She visited the N cairn first.

On Peak 4850. The cairn (L) along the N edge is in sight. Photo looks NW.
At the N cairn. Peak 4716 (L). Photo looks NW.
Peak 4716 where Lupe had been just a few hours ago. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Crossing the center of the summit region, Lupe briefly visited the cairn along the S edge, too.  She then traveled NW along the SW rim.  Most of Whistle Ridge was in sight the whole way, with Peak 4716 now at the far end.  It was all so beautiful that SPHP was sorry Lupe hadn’t traveled the entire length of the ridge.

Whistle Ridge from the NW end of Peak 4850. Peak 4716 (L). Photo looks NW.
Whistle Ridge.

In the end, Lupe spent most of her time on Peak 4850 relaxing near the big N cairn enjoying a stunning view of Glacier Gap Lake flanked by two mountains both much higher and far more rugged than where she was now.  Snow-capped peaks glimmered faintly beyond Glacier Gap.

Sort of makes you wonder what’s through that gap, doesn’t it, SPHP?

There’s a big lake, Loop.  Sevenmile Lake.  In fact, we passed a trailhead just S of Glacier Gap Lake a mile or two before we got to where the G6 is now.  No peakbagging involved, but would you like to see if we can make it through Glacier Gap to Sevenmile Lake tomorrow?

Sounds like fun!  A lake would be something different for a change.

No promises.  Don’t really know if we can actually get there, Looper.  Our topo map only shows a trail as far as Glacier Gap Lake, but even that looks like a fabulous destination.  Wouldn’t take all that long, either, if that’s as far as we make it.

Maybe we ought to go see if there’s any information at that trailhead when we get back to the G6?

Sure, Loop, why not?  Makes sense.  Maybe we’ll learn something?

The time came to leave Peak 4850.  Lupe headed E going back down to the huge saddle leading to HP4757 again.  She crossed the saddle, but did not return to HP4757 and its soft grassy mound.  Instead, she turned N starting down the long rocky slope.

HP4757 (R). It’s N slope which Lupe had come up and was about to go down again is in view. Photo looks NE.

Partway down the N slope of Whistle Ridge’s HP4757, suddenly Lupe did hear a whistle!

A marmot!  The formerly poor, weary, bleary-eyed Dingo was instantly transformed.  Off like a shot!  SPHP was left to trudge the rocky slope alone.  300 feet lower a Carolina Dog raced here and there across the grassy tundra, weaving frantically in and out among the bushes.

The rest of the return was marvelous!  Lupe’s delight was obvious.  Roaming free and feeling strong, the Carolina Dog ran hither and yon in wild Alaska chasing the exhilarating scent of adventure.  (End 5:47 PM)

Glacier Gap from Peak 4850, Whistle Ridge, Alaska 8-27-19

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The Denali Highway

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Crazy Notch Ridge, Alaska Range, Alaska (8-26-19)

Days 21 & 22 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-25-19, 8:32 AM, 37ºF, Denali State Park – Cloudy this morning, but it didn’t look like rain.  Still some blue sky around.  However, a certain bleary-eyed American Dingo wasn’t looking terribly ambitious.  After a fabulous long day up on K’esugi Ridge yesterday, nothing too strenuous had much appeal.

During breakfast, SPHP mulled over various options.  Actually, a day of rest did sound good.

Mind just taking it easy today, Looper?

I already am, SPHP.

So I see.  We could scout out the Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.), if you like, and get into position to take ’em on tomorrow.  That wouldn’t be too hard.

Not the Reindeer Hills again!  How many times have we been there and never gotten anywhere with them?  Last year we’d barely left the Denali Highway when I fell into a deep water hole!  Remember?  That bog was a death trap!  And you never did find a way across the creek.

Yeah, sorry about that.  Promise we won’t try that spot again, but maybe there is better access somewhere else.  No harm in looking is there?

How about you look, while I snooze?

Oh, come on!  You can snooze on the way over there.  Deal?

I suppose.  Deal, but I’m not climbing them today!

Despite the clouds and some haziness, the drive NE on the George Parks Highway was gorgeous.  Approaching Cantwell, the Reindeer Hills came into view.

The ever-elusive Reindeer Hills dead ahead! Photo looks NE.

By mid-afternoon, SPHP’s scouting was done.  Two possible access points, both near the W end.  Nothing to do now, but relax and wait.  Loop spent the rest of the day hanging out near the E Fork of the Jack River and a small lake.

By the E fork of the Jack River. Photo looks SE.
Evening at a small lake S of the Reindeer Hills. Photo looks SW.

8-26-19, 6:13 AM, 39ºF, E fork of the Jack River, Denali Hwy – Gah!  So much for the Reindeer Hills.  Not happening.  A dreary day, completely overcast with a very low ceiling.  The Reindeer Hills were cloaked in fog.

Might as well head E.  The G6 bumped and rattled 20 to 30 mph along the Denali Highway.  The Nenana River was beautiful, but SPHP didn’t stop.  Peak 5464 looked climbable, and was almost out of the clouds, but didn’t seem worth the effort on a day like today.

The sky soon darkened, and it began to rain.  However, the rain didn’t last.  Loop was getting restless.  SPHP began stopping at various points of interest to let the Carolina Dog sniff about for a few minutes.

Brushkala Creek.
Mysterious lowlands.
More lowlands. Very wet!
Approaching the Susitna River. Photo looks SE.
Upstream view. Photo looks NE.
On the Susitna River bridge at MP 79.5. Photo looks ENE.

Drifting clouds and fog lent an aura of mystery at every turn.  Misty mountains lay beyond dark evergreens and brilliantly colored bushes.

Denali Highway MP 60.5.
Heading away from the mountains. MP 60.5.
Amid the blazing bushes. MP 59.5.

The relaxing drive was beautiful, but hours passed and there didn’t seem to be anything to do.  At least, not until a stop overlooking a lake.  Off in the distance, Looper could see a long, low ridge with a notable rounded high point at one end.

The intriguing ridge from a lake along the Denali Highway. Photo looks NE.

The weather remained gloomy, yet Crazy Notch Ridge (4,233 ft.) wasn’t lost in the clouds.  With the summit only a little over 2 miles N of the Denali Highway, what looked like an easy trek exploring the big ridge seemed a perfect choice.

A few miles farther, the Denali Highway curved E.  Crazy Notch was less than a mile away.  A dirt road on the N side of the highway provided a spot to park the G6 hidden a few hundred feet back among the bushes.

8-26-19, 12:08 PM, 47ºF, Denali Highway MP 46.5 – With the G6 safely stashed, the American Dingo was ready for action!  Going N on the dirt road, she quickly passed a pond on the L (NW).  The road soon split.  Lupe went R (E) heading straight for Crazy Notch Ridge.

The pond near the start. Photo looks NW.
The summit (L) was in view even from the G6. Photo looks NE.

It quickly became apparent getting to Crazy Notch Ridge was going to be a little more complicated than SPHP expected.  Almost immediately, the dirt road curved back to the SE.  Lupe couldn’t head directly for the high ground.  A slough occupied the bottom of a small valley between here and the ridge.

The slough in the way (L). The Denali Highway heads through Crazy Notch (R). Photo looks SE.

Eh, no problem!  The dirt road looped all the way back to the Denali Highway.  Lupe followed it 0.33 mile E to the W end of Crazy Notch.  No slough here, only a 75 foot high slope to deal with.  The Carolina Dog left the Denali Highway at MP 46, beginning her ascent.

W end of Crazy Notch. Lupe left the Denali Highway here to begin her ascent of the slope on the L. Photo looks E.

The whole slope was thickly grown with bushes nearly as tall as SPHP.  While Lupe had little difficulty sneaking through this jungle, forcing a way higher against all the branches pushing back down the rather steep slope made progress dreadfully slow for SPHP.  Not that far to the top, though, so SPHP persevered.

Must have rained here earlier.  The bushes were all wet.  Loop was soon soaked, and so was SPHP.  Fun, fun!  2/3 of the way up the slope, SPHP suddenly noticed the air was humming.  Horrors!  Hornets!  The air was now full of them, and they sounded none too pleased at the disturbance created as SPHP had pushed right past their nest.  Lupe stood smiling right below it!

The dreaded hornet nest.

Looper, hurry!  Keep going!  Up, up!  Don’t stop!

SPHP was allergic.  No damage done.  Lupe also escaped unstung.  Lucky!

Reaching the top of the 75 foot slope, the news otherwise wasn’t good.  Loop hadn’t reached the broad gentle part of the ridge yet, not even close.  Ahead rose a hilly area, all densely covered with bushes.  SPHP had envisioned Loop trotting easily across a gently sloping tundra plain all the way to the summit, not an unremitting bushwhack!

At the top of the 75 foot slope with a long bushwhack still in store. Photo looks NE.

Fortunately, animal trails led through the bushes making it possible for SPHP to push through.  Each time a trail ended, Lupe sniffed out another one close by.  After making some progress in this manner, Loop came to an open spot, a bit of tundra and rocky ground.

On a bit of tundra. Crazy Notch Ridge summit beyond Loop. Photo looks N.
A glimpse back at the Denali Highway down in Crazy Notch. Photo looks E.
The colorful bushes were amazing, but this rocky ground was a welcome sight. Photo looks NNE.

Encouraging!  This was more like it!  The open ground proved to be a rare respite, but animal trails continued to provide assistance.  Pushing on, Lupe soon reached a high spot.  Ahead was a ravine, about 30 feet deep.  No choice, but to cross it.  Going down was easy, but getting back up the opposite side was a chore.  Again animal trails helped.

Two more high spots, two more ravines to cross.  Each time it got a bit easier.  These ravines weren’t as deep as the first one, and as Lupe slowly gained elevation, the bushes were getting smaller.

Crossing the tussocky last ravine. Photo looks NW.

After climbing out of the third ravine, Lupe had finally made it to the far S end of the long gentle slope leading N to the summit.  This region was still blanketed with bushes tall and thick enough to make it exhausting for SPHP to fight through them for any distance.

Beyond the last ravine with the long, broad slope leading to the summit now ahead. Photo looks N.

Happily, countless animal trails criss-crossed the broad plain.  As Lupe roamed N, the bushes continued to shrink.  The plain was somewhat higher toward the opposite E side.  Despite angling NNE, Loop never quite seemed to reach the highest ground.

Heading for the summit. The bushes are much smaller now. Photo looks N.

The terrain became increasingly tussocky as the bushes shriveled away.  No rocky ground at all.  SPHP had the impression that if Alaska hadn’t experienced a drought this summer, this whole region might be a giant bog.  Loopster was one lucky Dingo to be trying this in 2019!

Among the tussocks. Photo looks N.

A mere 2 miles, yet the trek seemed endless.  No worries.  The farther Lupe went, the easier and more fun it became.  At last she was closing in on the big rise at the N end of the mountain.  At the base of the steeper slope, she came upon a dried-up pool.  The only significant feature of the rounded hill ahead was a rocky point jutting out about 2/3 of the way up.

Getting close! Photo looks N.
By the dried-up pool. Photo looks N.

After crossing the dried-up pool, Lupe started up the slope.  Only a few hundred feet to the top.  Staying W(L) of the rocky point seemed to be the way to go.  By now there were few bushes, and Loop was on firm, slightly rocky ground of the sort SPHP had been hoping for all this time.

Starting up. Photo looks WSW.
Halfway up, closing in on the rocky point. Photo looks NNW.

As Lupe drew near the rocky point, Crazy Notch Ridge (4,233 ft.) really rolled out the red carpet for the American Dingo!

Crazy Notch Ridge rolls out the crimson carpet for Lupe.
The spectacular tundra.

Naturally, Lupe visited the rocky point.  The top turned out to be a flat, brightly decorated shelf.  Looper went all the way out to the end, which was a bit grassy.  Off to the S she had a grand view of the enormous lower part of Crazy Notch Ridge she had just traveled to get here.

The shelf on top of the rocky point. Photo looks SE.
Gazing back across the vast lower portion of Crazy Notch Ridge. The dried-up pool is in sight not too far away. Photo looks SSE.

The summit wasn’t much farther.  Another 125 feet higher?  Something like that.  The slope was an easy climb.  The weather was improving, with blue sky overhead as Lupe reached the top.

Nearing the summit. Photo looks N.

The top of Crazy Notch Ridge turned out to be a rounded ridgeline 1,000 feet long.  The highest portion of this summit ridge was a narrower 200 foot long section toward the W end.  A disorganized heap of stones sat at the very top.  Just E of the stones, a 20″ tall threaded metal rod stuck up out of the ground.

Although Crazy Notch Ridge wasn’t at all rugged, its open summit and isolated position provided commanding views in all directions.  Despite considerable haziness, what Lupe could see was impressive!

At the true summit of Crazy Notch Ridge. Photo looks NW.
Made it! Well worth the trek, too! Photo looks NW.

Break time!  For a long while, Lupe and SPHP sat resting together at the true summit.  Off to the NW was a great valley flanked by mountains.  This valley split going around both sides of Crazy Notch Ridge to join the surrounding lowlands.  The West Fork of the Maclaren River meandered E out of the valley.

Relaxing at the true summit. Photo looks NW.
The hazy valley of the W Fork of the Maclaren River. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

The sunshine was intermittent, clouds regularly sailed overhead.  At all times the distant views were hazy.  Only part of it was due to humidity.  Diffused smoke drifted this way from forest fires raging far to the W.

Whether in sunshine or shadow, the distant views remained hazy. Photo looks SW.

Loopster felt like exploring of the lower E end of the summit ridge.  The topo map showed a pond between the E end and a subpeak to the NE.  Why not go see if that pond was really there?

The E end of the summit ridge from the true summit. Photo looks NE.

A pond actually was nestled in the saddle leading to the NE subpeak.  Off to the NNE, a line of snow-capped peaks could be dimly seen beyond the Maclaren River.  Two large peaks were snowier than the others.  Less spectacular, but more clearly seen, Whistle Ridge (4,850 ft.) was off to the SE.

Whistle Ridge (R) in the distance beyond the Maclaren River. Photo looks ESE.
The pond in the saddle leading to the NE subpeak. Photo looks NE.
The two big snow-capped peaks beyond the Maclaren River. Photo looks NNE.
Peering a little farther up the Maclaren River valley. Photo looks NNE.
Maclaren River valley. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

Evidently the smoke from out W really had caught up with Lupe again.  The views should have been awesome, but weren’t all they might have been.  Returning to the true summit, Lupe ventured out to the far W end of the ridge where the smoke was even worse.

Returning to the true summit (Center). Photo looks W.
The smoky scene from the W end of the summit ridge. Strangely, the large lake in the foreground wasn’t even shown on the topo map. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Despite it all, Crazy Notch Ridge (4,233 ft.) was a terrific vantage point.  Strolling back to the true summit, Lupe and SPHP lingered a long time.

View to the N.
Looking S down the length of Crazy Notch Ridge.

A few miles to the WNW, beyond the lowlands, Lupe could see a large tableland.  That whole region was about as high as Crazy Notch Ridge.  Beyond the plateau were the Clearwater Mountains.  Looked like a fun place to explore!

The tableland (L) leading to the Clearwater Mountains. Photo looks WNW.

Wistfully, the American Dingo sat thinking about it, but the world is a big place.  Even if there was a way to cross the wet lowlands, that tableland was well beyond the limits of adventure today.

Guess we can’t do it all, can we, SPHP? …. No, truth is, most things are beyond us Loop. Always will be. Photo looks WNW.

Two hours gone at the summit of Crazy Notch Ridge!  The great beyond still beckoned.  Yet no matter what one does, there are always limits.  It was time to turn back.

Starting down. Photo looks S.

Lupe returned to the crimson shelf of the rocky point.  Once again, she traipsed the brilliant red carpet down to the dried-up pond.

Back on the rocky point.
Leaving Crazy Notch Ridge. Photo looks W.
Approaching the dried-up pond. Photo looks SSE.

A glorious evening!  Once past the dried-up pond, Lupe stayed farther E than during her ascent, sticking with the highest ground she could find.  Wild and free, she roamed the vast golden tussocky tundra stretching away to the S having a grand time.

Sticking with the high ground.
Crossing the golden plain. Photo looks S.
Farewell to Crazy Notch Ridge. Photo looks N.

Still quite a march, but the happy return along animal trails seemed to go much faster than the ascent.  Upon reaching the bushes again, Lupe discovered another dried up pond.  This one was perfectly round.

Looks like we’re too late for a drink, SPHP! Got any water in that pack? Photo looks S.

At the S end of Crazy Notch Ridge, it turned out the Carolina Dog was far enough E to avoid having to cross all 3 of the drainages she’d wandered through during her ascent.  Loop wound up in a much deeper ravine choked with bushes.

Suddenly a strange grunting noise was heard.  What the heck was that?  Lupe became intensely excited.  A young caribou!

Caribou at the S end of Crazy Notch Ridge.

The caribou ran off.  Disappointed, Lupe continued down the ravine.  Huge bushes towered over SPHP.  The ravine was becoming quite steep when the view opened up.

Not much farther now.  The Denali Highway was in sight down in Crazy Notch.  The American Dingo reached it 0.5 mile E of MP 46.  Less than a mile back to the G6!  Trotting easily along the quiet Denali Highway, Loopster headed W into the golden sun.  (End 7:29 PM)

Crazy Notch Ridge, Alaska 8-26-19

Links:

Next Adventure                           Prior Adventure

The Denali Highway

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Syncline Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-22-19)

Day 18 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8:38 AM, 36ºF, 1.5 miles NW of Glenn Highway MP 123.3 – Belanger Pass!  Almost immediately after making the L turn, SPHP was forced to park the G6 in a convenient slot among the bushes on the L side of the road.  A stream was just ahead.  Wide, but only inches deep, the G6 could have forded the stream easily enough, but only a little beyond it a huge mud puddle covered the entire road.  Better scout that out before getting too rambunctious!

Lupe bounded out.  Not a cloud in the sky!  Should have been a perfect day for Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.), but it wasn’t.

Kind of smoky, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup.  Must be some big forest fires somewhere.  With this haze as evenly spread out as it is, though, I suspect the fires aren’t anywhere around here.

We’re still going then, aren’t we?

Yeah.  Might as well give it a shot, provided the smoke doesn’t get too much worse.  Disappointing, but it’s the best chance we’ve had.  This far from home, it’s not like we’re going to get a zillion opportunities.

At the turn for Belanger Pass. Photo looks NW.
Loop ready to set out for Syncline Mountain!

The shallow stream was an easy rock hop.  Getting around the giant mud puddle was a bit trickier.  A fetid swamp right next to the puddle forced Lupe into a brushy young forest up on an embankment.  An animal trail helped get her by and back to the road.  The murky puddle looked too big and deep to chance it.  The G6 was staying right where it was!

The road headed WSW.  Apparently this area was all private property.  Lupe passed by one lot after another on both sides.  Many had rough driveways with no trespassing signs strung across them.  No structures built anywhere yet, just a bunch of junk owners had been ambitious enough to drag out here and abandon.  Humans!  Sheesh!

Two more huge puddles covered the road in the next 0.25 mile.  Loop came to a junction.  A primitive route signed as the way to Squaw Creek continued straight ahead.  The road to the R was in better shape and signed for Belanger Pass.  Lupe took that one, sniffing curiously along the edge as SPHP trudged up a long hill.

After 0.5 mile, the road leveled out.  Beyond a broad flat region, Belanger Pass was now in sight, still 1.5 miles away.  This same road could be seen winding toward it.

Heading for Belanger Pass (R). Photo looks NNW.

Despite the smoke, it was a grand day.  Hard to believe it, but Loop was on her way!  Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) had been on Lupe’s “to do” list ever since she’d first seen it from Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) where she’d met her friend Australian adventurer Luke Hall in 2016.

Gunsight Mountain was a higher, far more impressive peak, but during the Carolina Dog’s descent 3 years ago, SPHP couldn’t help noticing an enormous ridge off to the N.  Wouldn’t it be fun to roam that giant ridge?  Looper would love exploring it!  A map at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead had shown that the huge ridge was called Syncline Mountain.  A network of trails went all around it, but not on top.

Syncline Mountain area trail map posted at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead (MP 118.5 of the Glenn Highway).

Later, further investigation (topo map) had shown the easiest access to Syncline Mountain was probably from the E end up at Belanger Pass.  The true summit was way over at the opposite W end of the giant ridge at the “Fred” survey benchmark, a good 6 or 7 miles from the pass.  No doubt about it, Lupe was in for a long day with a fair amount of up and down, even once up on the mountain.

This day had been a long time coming.  Since climbing Gunsight, Lupe had been by Syncline Mountain 5 or 6 times, but conditions had always been miserable – raining, cold, sometimes windy.  Usually the mountain had been lost in fog.  A pity it had to be so hazy out, but this was by far the best opportunity that had presented itself.

The road dipped.  Last stream to cross.  Lupe enjoyed wading through and helping herself to a drink.  SPHP leapt over.  All uphill now the rest of the way to Belanger Pass.

Last stream on the way to Belanger Pass. Photo looks N.

While SPHP trudged higher, Lupe played hide and seek with rabbits.  Team Rabbit always won, racking up a lop-sided shutout, but it was a thrilling game nevertheless as the Dingoes kept threatening to score.  The road steepened.  Views back to the S improved.  Before long, Belanger Pass was just ahead.

Approaching Belanger Pass. Photo looks NNE.

At Belanger Pass, the road curved R (E) and disappeared over a little hill.  That was the wrong way.  Lupe needed to head W.  SPHP was surprised to see a jeep trail slicing steeply up a 50 foot high embankment on the W side of the pass.  Might as well follow it!

At Belanger Pass. The main road curves E here. Photo looks N.
W side of Belanger Pass. Photo looks WNW.
Taking the jeep trail higher. Photo looks N.

From the top of the embankment, it was instantly clear this was just the beginning.  The jeep trail took off heading W up a long slope leading to another higher pass.  The road made getting there a piece of cake.

Oh, I like the looks of this open country! Let’s head up to that next pass! Photo looks W.
Looking back from the 2nd pass. Photo looks NE.

The second pass wasn’t really much of a pass at all, more of a flat spot on a ridge.  To the SW, Lupe could see part of Syncline Mountain’s upper E/W ridge with a series of lesser ridges extending SE from it.  The jeep trail curved NW here, apparently on its way up to the main ridge.

Syncline Mountain’s main ridge from the 2nd “pass”. Photo looks SW.
This way to the vast upper ridge! Photo looks NW.

A road hike hadn’t been what SPHP expected at all, but the jeep trail sure made things easy!  45 minutes after leaving Belanger Pass, Lupe trotted up onto Syncline Mountain’s main ridge.

Treeline had been surpassed even before Loop reached Belanger Pass.  Up here not even small bushes were to be seen.  A thin layer of tundra blanketed a series of rounded hills stretching ever higher toward the SW.  The jeep trail headed off that way, staying near the SE edge.

Upon reaching the first minor high point, Lupe took a break.

On the jeep trail shortly after reaching Syncline Mountain’s giant upper ridge. Lupe took a rest break on the high point at far L. Photo looks SW.
Glancing back from the first minor rise. Photo looks NE.

Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) has 3 major high points strung out along the length of its enormous upper ridge.  The true summit is near the far W end, but even the lowest high point, which is the farthest E, is only 109 feet lower.  Close to 2 miles, and drops of roughly 600 feet separate each summit.  The topo map also showed survey benchmarks at both the E “Alfred” and W “Fred” high points.

Gazing SW along the ridge from this first rise, a succession of 4 or 5 hills could be seen.  One of the more distant ones, still nearly 1.5 miles away, had to be the location of “Alfred”, the E high point at 5,362 ft.

“Alfred” (HP5362) is the highest hill straight up from Lupe. Photo looks SW from the first minor rise Lupe came to.

Setting off again, Lupe continued along the jeep trail, which took her to, or very near, the top of each hill along the way.  These first few “hills” turned out to be separated only by minor dips.  After passing several of them “Alfred” was just ahead.

Approaching “Alfred” (HP5362) (L). Syncline Mountain’s middle high point (HP5400+) is now in sight at R. Photo looks SW.

The jeep trail divided near the bottom of the slope.  The most heavily traveled route skirted Alfred to the N.  Only a spur went clear up to the top of HP5362.  Naturally, the American Dingo took the spur.

The top of Alfred proved to be a spacious region that sloped gently away on all sides.  A big cairn sitting next to the NW side of the spur trail seemed a likely spot to look for the “Alfred” survey benchmark.  Initial inspection was disappointing in that regard.  No benchmark to be seen at or anywhere close to the cairn.

However, the Carolina Dog made a wonderful discovery.  A marmot was hiding in the cairn!  So much for any interest in survey markers.  Lupe was entranced!  She circled the cairn repeatedly, alternately barking shrilly or digging furiously, all to no effect.  The wise marmot had not the slightest intention of leaving its heavily fortified position.  In the end it became a waiting game.

Besieging the cairn on HP5362. Photo looks E.

Meanwhile, SPHP wandered about searching for “Alfred”.  40 feet NE of the cairn on the same side of the spur trail, a small pin was marked “U.S.G.S B.M.” but that was all SPHP could find.  Maybe that was it, but the pin was small, and didn’t say Alfred or show the elevation.

Survey pin on HP5362.

Giving up on finding anything more, SPHP persuaded Lupe to abandon the marmot in favor of another rest break along HP5362‘s W edge.  Both of Syncline Mountain’s other major high points were visible.  Still 4 miles off as the crow flies, the true summit beyond HP5400+ looked very far away.

HP5400+ (Center) from Alfred. The true summit is the distant high point farthest to the R. Photo looks WSW.

The most direct route from here to HP5400+ was to go WSW down into a wide valley, but the jeep trail didn’t go that way.  Instead, the better track that had stayed N of Albert could be seen curving NW toward the other side of Syncline Mountain.  After some indecision, it was decided to stick with the jeep trail.  Lupe cut straight down the slope to pick it up again.

HP 5400+ (L) and true summit (Center) from the W edge of HP5362. Photo looks WSW.
NW of HP5362, the jeep trail (R of Center) could be seen heading off for the other side of the mountain. Lupe cut straight down to it. Photo looks NW.

The marmot up on Albert had been a marvelous discovery.  A mountain that had one marmot might have more!  Furthermore, Lupe loved the wide open spaces up here.  Suddenly the Carolina Dog was really getting into it!  On the way down to the jeep trail, Looper took off racing great distances across the tundra, stopping only briefly here and there to pant and sniff.  Sure enough!  Every now and then an unseen marmot would whistle a warning somewhere off in the distance, and she streaked off in a new direction.

The smoke haze might be ruining the views, but Loopster was having a blast!  In the American Dingo’s opinion, Syncline Mountain was clearly the best adventure yet of this whole Dingo Vacation.

Back on the jeep trail, SPHP kept an eye on Loop during her frequent off-road excursions while following the road to a dip on the far side of the mountain.  Here the trail curved back to the W, climbed a minor ridge and disappeared from view.

Approaching the NW side of the mountain. Photo looks NW.

Up on the minor ridge, the jeep trail turned SSW.  For 0.5 mile the road stayed just W of the ridgeline and slightly below it.  The ridge ended as Lupe approached a valley she would have to cross to get to HP5400+.

Approaching the valley Looper would have to cross to get to HP5400+ (Center). True summit (R) in the distance. Photo looks SW.

As the minor ridge ended, the jeep trail curved W down a long slope, then NW as it crossed a saddle before heading up onto a bigger ridge that would eventually be a dead end.  Loop took the road down to the saddle, then left it heading SW down into the deeper valley.

Heading down to the saddle (Center). After getting there, Lupe then went down into the deeper valley to the L. Photo looks WNW.

This deeper valley was a saddle too, the saddle between HP5362 and HP5400+.  Lupe reached the bottom well below the highest part of this valley, which was farther SE.  The American Dingo went up the valley a little way before turning S to begin climbing a long, steep slope leading to HP5400+’s E ridge.

Starting up the steep slope (R) leading to HP5400‘s E ridge. Photo looks SE.

Finally reaching the E ridge was a relief.  The Carolina Dog still had to keep climbing from here, but at a much gentler pace.

Made it! Up on HP5400+’s E Ridge. Photo looks W.

Still 0.67 mile to the top of HP5400+!  Lupe followed the gently rounded ridge first W, then SW, climbing steadily most of the way.

Approaching HP5400+ (Center). Photo looks SW.

On or near the highest ground on HP5400+, Lupe came to a small cairn, sadly much too small to harbor any marmots.  Like back at Alfred, the summit region encompassed quite a large area, but here the summit was more elongated instead of round.  The little cairn sat near the E end, not far from where Lupe came up.

By the little cairn on top of HP5400+. Alfred (HP5362) (Center) in the distance. Photo looks ENE.

As Lupe continued beyond the cairn, the terrain fell off only slightly as she explored a long arm of the summit region extending NW.  Syncline Mountain’s true summit was in view again, and as Lupe got closer to the W end of HP5400+, she could see a line of lower hills and ridges snaking off toward it.  Even from here, getting to the true summit appeared to be quite a trek.

True summit (Center) from HP5400+. Photo looks W.
Leaving HP5400+ for the true summit (Center). Photo looks W.

Uphill and down!  Enjoying every minute, Lupe sniffed and ran, exploring the line of hills and ridges weaving W toward Syncline Mountain’s true summit.  No roads.  There hadn’t been any since she’d left the jeep trail, but in some places there were animal trails to follow, which may have meant the sniffing was pretty good.

Exploring the hills and ridges leading to the true summit. Photo looks W.
Gunsight Mountain (Center) from which Lupe had first seen Syncline Mountain in 2016. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
A look back at HP5400+ (Center). Part of Alfred (L) in the distance. Photo looks E.
Heading for the next hill. True summit (R). Photo looks SW.

Skirting the N side of the last hill, Lupe finally reached the slope that went down to the saddle leading to the true summit.

Approaching the saddle leading to the true summit. Photo looks W.

The saddle’s lower slopes were rutted, as though vehicles had been up here, although where they might have come from wasn’t clear.  If these ruts were actually animal trails, quite a herd must have come this way!  This saddle was the low point between HP5400+ and the true summit.  Once Lupe crossed it, she faced another long, steep climb.

Near the bottom of the saddle. Steep climb ahead! Photo looks W.

The final ascent began.  By the time Lupe reached a bit of a level spot, she didn’t have much farther to go.  The upward slope resumed, but more gradually than before.

At the first little level spot not far from the top (R). Photo looks WSW.

The end was a fun, easy stroll to the top.  The highest ground seemed to be a little N of the center of a crescent-shaped summit region with arms extending both N and W.  The crescent wasn’t as large an area as the summits of either HP5362 or HP5400+, but still hundreds of feet long with plenty of room to walk about.  A cluster of gray rocks, apparently the remnant of an ancient cairn, rested at the true summit.

On the ruins of a cairn at the true summit of Syncline Mountain. HP5400+ (Center) in the distance, with HP5362 even farther away toward the L. Photo looks E.
Looper near the middle of the summit crescent with the W arm of the crescent beyond her. Photo looks W.

Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.)!  Hard to believe Lupe was really here.  After 3 years spent dreaming about it, and such a long trek, the Carolina Dog had arrived.  A shame it was so smoky out.  Only the outlines of nearby mountains could be glimpsed through the haze.  Hardly anything could be seen to the NW where the smoke was thickest.

Gunsight Mountain (L) from the true summit of Syncline Mountain. Photo looks S.
Looking down the NW slope, the steepest face of the true summit.
Horn Mountain (6,418 ft.) (L of Center). The N end of Syncline’s summit crescent is at R. Photo looks NNE.

The “Fred” survey benchmark was supposed to be somewhere around here up at Syncline Mountain’s true summit.  SPHP searched the rocks of the collapsed cairn, but found nothing.  Pacing back and forth along the crescent proved fruitless, as well.  Not even a little USGS pin like back at Alfred.

Except for the smoke, conditions were perfect – upper 40’s ºF with a mere 5 mph N breeze.  For a pleasant hour, sweet Lupe relaxed at the true summit enjoying her Syncline Mountain success, while SPHP gazed toward inscrutable horizons, and peered into deep valleys.  All too quickly, it was time to go.

The long route back as seen from the true summit shortly before departure. HP5362 (Center) and HP5400+ (R of Center). Photo looks ENE.
Lupe already a little way down the slope. Photo looks ESE.
Another look at Horn Mountain (L) before dropping back down to the saddle leading to HP5400+. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Oh, it had been fun!  Lots more to come, too!  Lupe began retracing her entire long route all the way back to Belanger Pass, and down to the G6.  She continued to display great energy and spirit searching for elusive marmots, sometimes racing ahead just for the pure joy of running.

Along the way, the American Dingo returned to both HP5400+, where she stopped for a Taste of the Wild and water break, and HP5362, which she might easily have bypassed.

Relaxing momentarily on HP5400+.
Back up on the minor ridge on the way to Alfred. Photo looks NNE.
By the marmot cairn on Alfred (HP5362) again. HP5400+ (L) and Fred (true summit) (R). Photo looks WSW.
On the way back to Belanger Pass. Photo looks NE.
Near the end, looking down on the region N of Belanger Pass. Photo looks NE.

Happy hours flew by.  It had been a day like few others.  Down in the lowlands far below Belanger Pass, Lupe saw rabbits galore on the road ahead.  Game on!

It was dusk by the time Lupe reached the short animal trail leading around the last big mud puddle blocking the road.  In the fading light she didn’t realize she was racing straight for the swamp!  Streaking past SPHP, Loopster hurtled off the embankment with a mighty leap instantly transformed into a belly flop.  Fortunately, the water wasn’t over her head.  A shocked American Dingo clawed her way out.

Not 5 minutes from the G6, and now this!  Nothing to be done about it.  Lupe was weary.  SPHP was weary.  Onward!  Moments later, SPHP opened the door, and the filthy Carolina Dog jumped in.  What a day!  What a fabulous day!

And now for a fragrant night with the smelly, wet Dingo from the Black Lagoon.  (10:01 PM, 50ºF)

Exploring Syncline Mountain, Talkeetna Mountains, Alaska 8-22-19

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Gunsight Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-23-16)

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Lost Chicken Hill & Mount Fairplay, Alaska (8-19-19)

Day 15 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

2:31 AM, 30 ºF, Taylor Highway 0.5 mile SSW of Steele Creek Dome – Cold.  And deathly quiet.  Like a frozen zombie eye, a pale three-quarter moon stared down from space.  A faint glow betrayed the sun’s position far to the N as it snuck along well below the horizon.  Otherwise still a very dark night.  Sniffing intensely, Lupe wove in and out among the bushes along the edge of the big dirt pullout.

10 minutes ago the Carolina Dog had suddenly burst into a frenzied barking spree.  No sign out here now of whatever she’d detected.  Might have been anything.  SPHP never saw it.  Perhaps best that whatever it was had vanished?  As soon as the American Dingo calmed down a bit, SPHP persuaded her to retreat back into the G6.

9:23 AM, still SSW of Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.) –  Ugh!  Overslept!  The sun had been up for hours!  Hardly mattered.  If the weather held, Lupe still had time enough to complete her adventures along the Taylor Highway today.  SPHP straightened out the G6, and the American Dingo was on her way.

First stop was at the South Fork Wayside, right after crossing the bridge over the Forty Mile River.  Lupe explored the forest looking for squirrels, while SPHP heated up a can of beef stew for brunch.  The brown waters of the South Fork of the Forty Mile River were much lower than they had been a year ago.  Loop waded in for a drink.

Near the S Fork Wayside picnic gazebo.
South Fork of the Forty Mile River.

12:53 PM, 50 ºF, Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead near Chicken, Alaska – The next stop offered a choice of adventures.  A mile or two before reaching Chicken, SPHP parked the G6 at the Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead.  A nice-looking trail disappeared into the forest on its way to an overlook where an old gold mining dredge would be visible down on the Mosquito Fork of the Forty Mile River.

Truth is, peakbagging Carolina Dogs aren’t much into mining or dredges, and while forks are sometimes useful, SPHP isn’t keen on mosquitoes.  Right across the Taylor Highway was a better option.  Lupe could climb Lost Chicken Hill (2,150 ft.)!

Oh, let’s do that instead, SPHP!  I’ll find that lost chicken!  It’ll be wings and drumsticks for dinner tonight!

Heavily forested Lost Chicken Hill wasn’t much of a climb, a mere 80 feet of elevation gain or so from the trailhead, if that.  Nevertheless, Lupe was enthused by the thought of hunting down that lost chicken.  If she could also claim a trivial Alaskan peakbagging success as well, so much the better!  After crossing the highway, she passed through a big opening carved into the S end of Lost Chicken Hill and headed up into the forest.

Starting for Lost Chicken Hill right across the Taylor Highway from the Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead. Photo looks NE.
Loopster’s search for the lost chicken begins!

The dense forest was littered with small diameter deadfall, the forest floor thick with soft, spongy moss.  Gently rounded Lost Chicken Hill was an easy climb.  Before long, Lupe arrived at a large flat region that had to be the summit.  The American Dingo prowled this way and that, but the lost chicken did not appear, and no single spot stood out as the absolute highest point.

This seems to be about the top, but no sign of the lost chicken yet!

Lupe sniffed and searched everywhere!  She found bright red berries, she came to a variety of mushrooms and fungi, but the famous lost chicken was nowhere to be seen.

Red berries were common on Lost Chicken Hill.
A big brown mushroom.
More mushrooms among the spongy moss.
A particularly colorful fungi.
Puzzling over which way the lost chicken might have gone.

I thought this would be a snap.  How long has this chicken been missing, anyway, SPHP?

Not exactly sure, Looper.  Probably since the gold rush days.  1880’s?  1890’s?  Something like that.

So the chicken was here 130 years ago?  No wonder I can’t pick up a scent!

Yeah, I’m really not that surprised, to tell you the truth.

The Carolina Dog pondered the situation.

The chicken can’t be too spry now, SPHP, but might have wandered quite a long way in 130 years.  The trail is stone cold.  Even if we find this chicken, it’s apt to be scrawny and tough.  We should have gotten here sooner.

No doubt you’re right, Loop.  Don’t worry about it.  My bad.  I shouldn’t have overslept.

With no chickens and no views, there didn’t seem to be much point in lingering up on Lost Chicken Hill.  What the heck, Lupe had plenty of Alpo and Taste of the Wild to eat, anyway!  Might as well return to the G6, and carry on.  Even so, the Carolina Dog didn’t give up entirely.  The whole way back she kept sniffing and exploring, just in case.

The only chickens she found, though, were the big metal ones stationed in the village of Chicken, when SPHP stopped for a quick look around.

You can’t fool me, SPHP! These chickens aren’t even real!

Lost Chicken Hill had been a fun romp, but only a warm-up exercise.  The big prize of the day was still ahead – a favorite peak, one that Lupe had been to in both 2017 and 2018 – Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.)!

Lupe had seen Mount Fairplay on the horizon from Steele Creek Dome yesterday evening.  Stopping briefly at the Mount Fairplay Wayside 30 miles S of Chicken, the mountain was now only a few miles away.

At the Mount Fairplay Wayside, MP 35 of the Taylor Highway.
Mount Fairplay (Center) from the wayside. Photo looks SE.

Mid-afternoon already, but a decent day.  This was Lupe’s big chance to visit the top of Mount Fairplay for a third time.  2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, but a fun and easy climb.

3:06 PM, 50 ºF, Taylor Highway pullout at MP 32.8 – Quite a few clouds around, but patches of blue sky, too.  Lupe crossed the Taylor Highway and started up an embankment on the other side.  Experience gained during her prior ascents from this same starting point would come in handy now.  The first goal was to get up on the lower end of the broad ridge leading SE toward the big saddle S of the summit.

Mount Fairplay (Center) from the pullout at Taylor Highway MP 32.8. Photo looks ESE.

The broad ridge wasn’t far from the highway, or much of a climb, but this first zone was full of small trees and dense stands of large bushes.  Instead of heading E straight for the ridge as she had done before, Lupe angled NE (L) taking a slightly longer route hoping to avoid the worst of the bushes.

This manuever should have worked.  The bushes weren’t nearly as bad this way.  Less thrashing about for SPHP ought to have saved some time, but another obstacle presented itself.  Blueberries!  The slope leading up to the ridge was full of luscious, ripe, wild blueberries.  No problem for the American Dingo, but SPHP was quickly hooked.

Are you coming, or not, SPHP?  The bushes would have been faster!  We’ll never get there at this pace!

Sorry, Loop, but wild blueberries are sooo scrumptious!  Just a few more, and I’ll be right with you.

Part of the blueberry trap.

Inexplicably, a few more turned out to be quite a few more.  Lots more, in fact, but Lupe finally did make it up onto the broad ridge.  Although blueberries were up here, too, there weren’t as many.  Overall there was far less vegetation.  The long slope leading SE toward the big saddle was now in view.

Finally up on the lower part of the broad ridge. Photo looks WNW.
The long slope higher ahead. Photo looks SE.

Staying farther NE than during her prior ascents, Lupe headed for the big saddle more than a mile away.  The slope gradually became rockier as she climbed.

Looking NW back down the slope.
Entering rockier terrain. Photo looks SE.

It was a little earlier in the year this time around.  The tundra was just beginning to change to fall colors.

The tundra wasn’t quite as colorful yet as on Lupe’s earlier ascents.
Gazing along the W flank of Mount Fairplay. Photo looks SSW.
Making progress. Photo looks SE.
Typical appearance of the lichen-covered rocks.

Before Lupe reached the start of the steeper climb up to the big saddle, she came to a broad expanse of grassy tundra.  In prior years, this area had been boggy, full of tiny trickling streams and numerous waterholes.  Now, however, the ground was noticeably drier.  Hardly any streams, and fewer waterholes.  Lupe stayed on or near the rocks as long as she could before entering the wetlands.

Approaching the boggy region. Photo looks SE.
Near the end of the rocks. The saddle beyond Lupe is the pass between HP5120 (L) and Mount Fairplay’s summit (R). Photo looks NE.
Close to a waterhole. HP5120 (R of Center) in the background. Photo looks NNE.

With less sogginess to avoid, getting to the base of the steeper climb was easier than ever before.  Here the terrain became rocky again.  In short order, Loopster was scrambling higher.

Above the boggy area. Photo looks SE.
So far, so good! Gets quite a bit steeper from here on, though!
Scrambling higher.

After a good scramble, Loop reached an area with more vegetation again above the steepest part.  She still hadn’t made it up to the big saddle SSW of the summit.

Near the end of the steepest section. Photo looks SSE.
Easier now, but still below the big saddle SSW of the summit. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe never did get to the big saddle.  Instead, the Carolina Dog turned NE heading almost directly for the summit.  This was a steeper, shorter route than she’d ever taken before.  Lanes of tundra provided paths of least resistance between rivers of rock.

Heading for the summit (L). Photo looks NE.
Glancing back at the big saddle on the S ridge after bypassing it. Photo looks S.

The final climb was rocky and moderately steep.  Following faint paths, it wasn’t long before Lupe was approaching the summit.

Still a little way to go. Photo looks NNE.
Getting close to the top. Photo looks N.

Towers, sheds, and wires came into view.  Moments later, Lupe was among them.  A big brown shed was close to where she’d come up.  Loop headed for a small wall of rock a bit NE of it.  This little rock wall still looked like the marginally highest point on the mountain.

The towers on Mount Fairplay come into sight. Photo looks NNE.
3rd annual appearance at the true summit of Mount Fairplay! Photo looks NW.

The top of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) looked pretty much the same as before.  The same towers and sheds were grouped near the S end and along the W side of the big, rough, but otherwise almost flat summit area.  However, there was one important difference.  Lupe was sad to learn that the very entertaining squirrel that had been up here in 2018 was gone!  Not completely unexpected.  What had possessed a squirrel to traipse all the way up here more than 1,500 feet above any tree or bush had always been a mystery in the first place.

The entire summit was roughly 300 feet long N/S and 100 feet wide E/W.  Lupe’s reconnaissance started with the big rocks at the S end.

Looking down the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Near the E edge still looking down the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Same spot, but showing more of the S end of the summit region. Photo looks SW.

After enjoying the views to the S, Loop headed N along the E edge.  She got all the way to the N end, and again found the survey marker where SPHP had first learned the name of this mountain back in 2017.

At the survey marker near the N end of the summit region.
Survey marker No. 2.

An arrow on Survey marker No. 2 pointed S toward a wall of loose rock partially enclosing a shallow human-created depression several feet in diameter.  Going over for her annual check, Lupe still did not see any other survey marker, in or out of the pit.  Survey marker No. 2 was the only one she had ever found on Mount Fairplay, and that’s the way things stayed.

On the rough circular wall by the pit (L of Lupe) survey marker No. 2 points toward. Photo looks SSW.

Time for a break.  At the N end, not far from survey marker No. 2, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap.  The sky had clouded up completely, a nearly uniform indistinct gray, long before the Carolina Dog had reached the summit.  Evening now, and quite cool, about 40 ºF with a 5-10 mph breeze out of the SW.

The clouds were fairly high, but the air below was hazy.  Looking down Mount Fairplay’s broad N slope, rows of yellow-brown hills and ridges faded into oblivion.  The American Dingo could see for miles, but not sharply, details concealed by the horizon-devouring haze.

Gazing down Mount Fairplay’s N slope. Photo looks N.

Three ascents of this overgrown E Alaska hill!  Hard to believe it, but Loopster really was back.  It all seemed so familiar, yet still incredibly remote.  The scene was duller, more somber and serious than before.  Not even that peakbagging squirrel to break the solitude.  Refuge in the sky, Mount Fairplay stood besieged by a vast, empty unknown.

Lupe got hungry.  Taste of the Wild was provided.  Ahh, so much better!  Energy came surging back.  The were-puppy appeared, growling and threatening, and succeeded in snatching away SPHP’s glove.

The glove-snatching were-puppy of Mount Fairplay.

Hey, give that back!

Keep-away is a delightful game, one the were-puppy knew it would win.  Not until SPHP was sufficiently humiliated did the glove lose its strange fascination.  Abandoned among the rocks, SPHP finally retrieved it.

Well, thank you so much!  Since you’re so perky, why don’t we take a stroll around the whole summit?

The were-puppy was fine with that.

The Taylor Highway from the W edge. The gently rounded yellow slope seen beyond Lupe is the broad ridge she had come up from R to L. Photo looks W.
View to the NW. The closest hill is HP5120 (R of Center).
In the area that was Lupe’s approach to the summit. Photo looks SW.
At the S end again overlooking the big saddle along the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Along the E edge. Photo looks NE.

After a leisurely counter-clockwise circumnavigation, Lupe was back where she’d started.  SPHP proposed lingering a while longer at the NW end.  A bit gloomy up here, but Mount Fairplay was so fabulous!  The weather wasn’t threatening, and the sun, though sinking, still gleamed among the clouds.

The summit as seen from the NW end. Photo looks S.
The distant gleam to the W.

What are you staring at, SPHP?  You going to stand there forever?

No.  It’s just incredible to be here again, Loop.  Enjoying, that’s all.

Still enough daylight to try something different, if we get on with it, isn’t there?

Maybe, what do you have in mind?

Let’s go down the N slope this time.  Looks easy enough, and we’ve never been that way before.

Come on! Let’s try the N slope! Photo looks NNE.

Last year, Lupe had explored part of the S ridge beyond the big saddle on what turned out to be a gorgeous evening spent roaming the blazing, brilliant tundra.  Wasn’t going to be like that today, but the Carolina Dog was right.  Although longer than going back the way she had come up, the N slope appeared perfectly feasible.  Ought to be able to reach the highway before dark.  Why not?

I like it!  Go for it, Looper.  I’ll be right behind you!

An hour and twenty minutes after reaching the top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe charged far down the N slope, greatly outdistancing SPHP.  She soon dashed back to encourage SPHP to hurry.  Some places it was rocky enough to slow things down quite a bit, but most of the way even SPHP set a fairly lively pace on the long downhill trek.

Exploring a new route took some of the sadness out of leaving Mount Fairplay behind.

Already partway down the N slope, Lupe returns to check on SPHP. Photo looks NNE.
Overlooking the saddle region (Center) between HP5120 (straight up from Lupe’s head), and Mount Fairplay’s N ridge (R). Photo looks N.

0.33 mile down the N ridge, Lupe turned NW descending into the broad saddle region leading to subpeak HP5120.  The saddle proved boggy, so she crossed it at the highest, driest part along the NE edge.

A glance back up the N ridge during the descent. Photo looks S.
About to drop down to the saddle leading to HP5120 on the other side. Lupe crossed this saddle at far R, then traveled along the base of HP5120 aiming for the little pass seen on the L. Photo looks NW.
Mount Fairplay from the saddle. Photo looks SSE.

Once across the saddle, it wouldn’t have been too difficult to go right up and over HP5120, but doing that seemed an unnecessary expenditure of precious energy.  Instead, Looper turned SW along the base of HP5120, angling slowly higher toward a minor pass.

In the small pass at the S end of HP5120. Mount Fairplay (L). Photo looks S.

Going through the pass, Lupe came to a steep, scree-covered slope.  The small rocks were loose, and often gave way underpaw.  A series of faint animal trails provided better support.

Traversing the W slope of HP5120. Photo looks NW.

The animal trails were fun to follow, and got Lupe all the way around HP5120 down to a lower part of Mount Fairplay’s NW ridge.  Ahead, a long level stretch led to a much smaller hill.  Approaching the top, a pole came into view.  Lupe soon reached a small solar-powered installation, perhaps a weather station?

The solar-powered station on the NW ridge. A little slice of Mount Fairplay’s summit (straight up from Lupe) peeks up from behind HP5120 (Center). Photo looks SSE.

All downhill from here!  From the solar-powered station, the NW ridge sloped steadily down to the Taylor Highway.  Still quite a trek, but an easy one practically all the way.

Looking down the NW ridge from close to the solar-powered station. Photo looks NW.
The big, rounded ridges of Mount Fairplay’s W slopes. Lupe had gone up the next one over. Photo looks SSW.
Solar station hill (L), HP5120 (Center), Mount Fairplay summit (R of Center). Photo looks SE.
Mount Fairplay (L of Center) from well down the NW ridge. Photo looks SE.

The only tricky part came at the end.  Leaving the NW ridge, the terrain steepened as Lupe turned W searching for a way down through forest and dense bushes.

It all worked out!  Without getting SPHP too tangled in vegetation, Lupe managed to reach the Taylor Highway.  Only an easy 0.5 mile stroll back to the G6 remained.

As she trotted along, the sky was clearing off to the N.  Two years ago, the Carolina Dog had seen the Northern Lights for the first time from the pullout at MP 32.8 W of Mount Fairplay where she’d be staying tonight.  Maybe she’d get lucky again!  (End 9:38 PM, 44 ºF)

Mount Fairplay, Alaska from the Taylor Highway after Lupe’s 3rd ascent, 8-19-19

Links:

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of the World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

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Ditching the Dempster & Doing Domes, Yukon Territory & Alaska (8-18-19)

Day 14 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-17-19, 10:05 PM, 32 ºF snowing hard, Arctic Circle, Yukon Territory

So since when does a 60% chance of precipitation mean hours and hours of rain followed by a blizzard?

This is the Arctic Circle, SPHP, you have to be ready for anything!

Evidently.  You realize, Looper, that if it keeps snowing like this tonight, we are going to be stuck here for who knows how long?

It snowed here for a little while in the evening last year, too, SPHP.  Remember?  It all turned to rain, though, and by noon the next day we were able to keep going.

Yeah, we lucked out, but this time we know that the forecast is for more of the same for the next 3 days.  Any significant accumulation tonight means the G6 isn’t getting over Wright Pass tomorrow.  If we can’t do that, there goes the plan to blow a few days going to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk again while waiting for conditions to improve in the Richardson Mountains.

Well, let’s see how things look in the morning.

Loop, I’d love to, but we can’t wait.  The snow is forcing our paw.  Have to decide now.  Might already be too late to escape, if it keeps snowing like this.  Want to stay and risk getting stuck here in a snowbank for days, or at least try to flee S?

That’s what you want to do, SPHP?  Flee S?

Hate to, but our gamble hasn’t paid off.  Not looking like the Arctic Ocean or any peaks in the Richardsons are in the cards.  If we’d just gotten some rain, that would be one thing – we could hang in here a while yet, but the weather’s been getting worse and worse.  Even if it stops snowing down here, the mountains are already blanketed with snow.  Won’t even start to melt for at least 4 days.

A mere two hours after arriving at the Arctic Circle, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood faced the humiliation of having to retreat.  None of her 2019 arctic adventures so long in the works were going to happen.  At least the American Dingo had made it to the true arctic for a 4th year in a row, which was some minor consolation.

The G6 sprang to life, crept back onto the Dempster Highway, and began jolting and sloshing S.  Lupe had ended up fleeing the true arctic in 2018, too.  She’d actually made it to the Arctic Ocean, but a blizzard with high winds had threatened on the return trip S.  A repeat performance was now underway.

Pitch dark out!  The snow was flying when Lupe went past the Eagle Plains hotel again.  Foolishly, SPHP didn’t stop.  Already knew there was no room at the inn for Dingoes tonight, but should have at least topped off the gas tank.  Only down a couple of gallons, but they might postpone a true emergency for a little while.

Virtually no traffic.  Snow started accumulating on the road.  Like last year, another tense hours-long drive, but the G6 kept crawling forward.  Relief every time the top of a hill was reached.  Visibility was horrid, but at least it wasn’t snowing as hard as back at the Arctic Circle.

In blinding snow, SPHP completely missed the huge Ogilvie Ridge turnout, but was suddenly aware that the G6 must already be headed down Seven Mile Hill.  35 ºF!  Like last year, the Ogilvie River valley was a little warmer.  The snow turned to rain, the road merely wet.  Saved!  Another harrowing escape!  Weary, SPHP found a spot to park for the night.  8-18-19, 2:09 AM.

8-18-19, 7:42 AM – Saved?  Morning’s first glance was alarming!  Close to the G6, the Ogilvie River was tremendously swollen, coming within only a few feet of overflowing onto the Dempster Highway.  Could have been swept away in the night!  The thought was horrifying.

Lupe at road level next to the swollen Ogilvie River, which had risen tremendously overnight. About km 221 of the Dempster Highway.

Perhaps Lupe’s great escape was only partially successful?  Snowing hard down here now, too.  Fortunately not quite cold enough to stick.  The Carolina Dog still had to get over Windy Pass.  Might not be possible.

Less than a mile farther S, the Dempster Highway was reassuringly higher versus the river compared to where Lupe had spent the night.

8-18-19, 8:48 AM, 33 ºF, Engineer Creek, km 179 – The news was better than expected.  The sky was lighter.  Barely snowing now, and only a good dusting on the Ogilvie Mountains.  A couple of vehicles had been by heading N, one a mere sedan like the G6.  Apparently it was possible to get over Windy Pass.

By Engineer Creek, km 179. Photo looks S.

Did we do the right thing, Loopster?

What kind of a question is that, SPHP?  You were the one in such a panic to retreat.

I know, but I wonder what really happened at the Arctic Circle last night?  How much snow actually fell?  Not that much down here.

Who knows?  Seemed to be plenty of snow accumulating when we left.  We’re a long way from the Arctic Circle now, SPHP.  Don’t tell me you’re thinking of going back after all this!  Are you crazy?

No, we’re still heading S.  The prognosis wasn’t good, even if we didn’t get snowed in.  Want to know something strange, though?

Do I have a choice?

Nope.  Now that we are safely away, I sort of miss the intensity of facing the unknown.

That’s the adventurer in you, SPHP!

You really think so, Loop?  Thank you!

Yes.  And last night we saw the big chicken in you.

Hey!  It was a logical decision.

Maybe.  We’ll never know now how it would have turned out.  So what’s the new plan, anyway, SPHP?

New plan?  We’re going to complete our long joy ride, then ditch the Dempster Highway.  Not going to hang around for days waiting for sunshine and warmer temps.  Once we’re back to the N. Klondike Highway, we’ll turn W to Dawson City, take the free ferry across the Yukon River, and head for Alaska!  Maybe you’ll get a chance to hit a couple of domes we missed out on last year?

Oh, I hope so!  The scenery here has been magnificent, but I’m ready to get out and do something!

The road trip S resumed, with short stops here and there.  Windy Pass looked and felt wintery, but the few snowflakes still flying were tiny.  A little slush on the road presented no problem.  By the time Lupe was back at the Blackstone River, the precipitation was all over and done with.  Just a chilly, gray day.

Engineer Creek, km 168.
Heading for Windy Pass.
Winter in mid-August at Windy Pass, km 152. Photo looks S.
Back at the Blackstone River.

Just enough snow had fallen along in here to beautify and highlight the rugged features of the mountains.  Yes, yes, very lovely, but what really got Lupe excited was a moose dashing across the Dempster Highway!

Dempster Highway km 130. Photo looks S.
Finally some real excitement!

The resulting barkfest was sweet, but disappointingly short.  However, hopes for more action were soon raised.  Lupe had seen only one moose, and when Two Moose Lake proved to be only a little farther down the road, she insisted on stopping.

That other moose ought to be around here somewhere!  All senses on alert, Lupe patrolled the highway near Two Moose Lake, but stealth moose No. 2 was craftier than moose No. 1, remaining undetectable.

Alright! Come on, SPHP! Moose No. 2 must be somewhere around here. Photo looks NNE.
A brisk patrol of the Dempster Highway near Two Moose Lake. Photo looks S.
Two Moose Lake and the Ogilvie Mountains. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Two white swans took off from Two Moose Lake and flew away.  No other movement.  Disappointing and inexplicable.  Oh, well.  Back to the G6!

Another stop at the bubbly pond was a must!  After that, shorter breaks to enjoy the snow-clad mountains on the way to North Fork Pass.

Back at the bubbly pond (km 95), a favorite Lupe hideout. Photo looks E.
An enticing unnamed peak. Photo looks SE.
Another look with help from the telephoto lens.
On the way to North Fork Pass, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SE.

8-18-19, 11:32 AM, 32 ºF, Tombstone Territorial Park –  24 hours after leaving the N Klondike River overlook, Lupe was back.  Still overcast, and the temperature hadn’t budged a single degree off freezing, but visibility was a little better.  This time Loop thought she could make out Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) at the far end of the valley.

N Klondike River valley (km 74). Photo looks SW.
Tombstone Mountain was faintly visible at the far end of the valley. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

8-18-19, 1:13 PM, 48 ºF, parking area at km 26 – Before ditching the Dempster entirely, SPHP stopped once more at the parking area where Lupe had woken up yesterday morning.  Such a difference now that she was down out of the Ogilvie Mountains!  Sunny and comfortably warm.  While SPHP made lunch, the Carolina Dog even sought shade among the bushes.

If the Arctic Circle had been like this, I would already be on top of Peak 3850 in the Richardson Mountains!

The whole jaunt up the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle had been more or less a fiasco, but had taken only 1.5 days.  The American Dingo hadn’t gotten to climb a single peak, or even make an attempt on one, yet it had still been a ton of fun seeing all the gorgeous scenery again while clinging to a doomed hope for peakbagging success.

On the bright side, success was practically guaranteed now!  The next peak on Lupe’s list of possible objectives was one she’d been to before.  An easy drive-up, with a grand view of the fabled Yukon River!  Half an hour after lunch, SPHP turned W on the N Klondike Highway.  Loopster’s unproductive adventures along the Dempster Highway were over.

8-18-19, 3:55 PM, 50 ºF, Midnight Dome by Dawson City – So what if  Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a drive-up?  Being on top of a mountain again felt great!  No weather worries here!  Lupe basked in sunshine.  Throngs of people were coming and going, at least by Yukon Territory standards.  And why not?  A beautiful summer day, super easy access, and a splendid view overlooking Dawson City of Klondike Gold Rush fame along the mighty Yukon River.

There’s Dawson City and the Yukon River! A shame we’re 123 years too late for the start of the Klondike Gold Rush! Photo looks SW.
Midnight Dome history and geology.
I only climbed 20 feet to get to this rock, but it’s still the top of a mountain, and look at that view of the Yukon River! Photo looks NNW.
Yukon River. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Let it snow up at the Arctic Circle!  Conditions were so much better down here.  Midnight Dome only served to inspire the desire for more action.  Still time enough left for it today, too!  After leaving Midnight Dome, the American Dingo didn’t dawdle in Dawson City.  Instead, she went straight to the free ferry, took it across the Yukon River, and set off on the Top of the World Highway.

Heading for Alaska on the Top of the World Highway.

104 km (64 miles) to Alaska!  Lupe saw Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.) and went right by Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) on the way, both of which she had climbed on a rainy day only a year ago.  Would have been fun to climb them again, but the Carolina Dog had unfinished dome business to take care of in Alaska, and today was the day to do it!

2 km from the border, the Top of the World Highway curved over a ridge where a large parking area was on the S side of the road.  Last chance to get out and enjoy the Yukon before crossing into Alaska!

2 km from the Alaska border about to leave the fabulous Yukon Territory. Photo looks S.

US and Canadian customs were already in sight.  Lupe crossed over to the N side of the Top of the World Highway, where a small hill with a huge cairn provided a great view of the border.

Still in the Yukon, but with Alaska in sight! Photo looks NW.
US/Canadian customs from the Yukon side of the border. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Crossing the border, Loop gained an hour.  On Alaska time now!

8-18-19, 5:41 PM, 41 ºF, 1.5 miles into Alaska –  Shortly after breezing through US customs, SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the N side of the Top of the World Highway.  Out leapt the wily and ferocious were-puppy, totally excited about finally getting a chance to burn off excess energy!  After the usual dastardly assault on SPHP, the were-puppy charged up Davis Dome (4,124 ft.).

The were-puppy threatens SPHP shortly after entering Alaska. Davis Dome in the background. Photo looks SW.

From the pullout, Davis Dome was just a big rounded hill.  Only 275 feet of elevation gain, so no sweat.  Yet when Lupe had been here last year, persistent cold rain and dense fog had prevented even an attempt.  Not going to be denied this time!  Before long the were-puppy reached the top of a spacious plateau.  Near the the marginally higher N edge, a loosely constructed cairn marked what passed for the true summit.

At the top of Davis Dome. Note the survey benchmark near the base of the cairn straight below Lupe’s rear leg. Photo looks N.

Off to the N, an enormous expanse of lower hills and long ridges extended toward higher peaks visible near the horizon.  On the S side of the cairn, a survey marker was attached to a flat rock.  Disappointingly, it was not stamped “Walker” as shown on the topo map.  However, a short distance to the E another marker with an arrow pointing toward the cairn was.

Survey benchmark at the base of the cairn.
The bronze mushroom near Looper’s front paws is actually the survey marker with the arrow. Photo looks WNW.
The bronze “Walker” mushroom.

The summit plateau was elongated toward the SW.  Close to the S edge stood a green thingamajig.  Since a 20 mph N wind was making hanging out by the cairn near the N edge a chilly proposition, Lupe headed S to check out the thingamajig.

Davis Dome summit plateau. Photo looks SSW.

The thingamajig had a door partway up the E side, and was fastened to Davis Dome by guy wires.  It didn’t look very aerodynamic, but maybe if Loop got inside and SPHP released the guy wires, the thingamajig would launch into space and take her to the Land of Oz?

Checking out the Davis Dome thingamajig. Photo looks SW.

The Carolina Dog wasn’t convinced.  At any rate, she preferred Alaska to adventures in Oz, especially if SPHP wasn’t coming with.  Instead of launching into space, she continued her exploration of the Davis Dome summit plateau, going clear to the SW end before exploring the W edge.

Near the SW end of the summit plateau. The cairn is just visible on the L. US and Canadian customs (R) are seen just L of the thingamajig (far R). Photo looks NE.

The views were similar.  Unspoiled hills and ridges as far as the Dingo could see, but no dramatic peaks.  Lupe returned briefly to the summit cairn before heading back to the G6.  (6:22 PM)

About to start back. Photo looks N.
The G6 waits down at the pullout next to the Top of the World Highway. US and Canadian Customs at the Alaska/Yukon border (Center). Photo looks NE.
US and Canadian Customs from Davis Dome with help from the telephoto lens.

Getting on toward evening, but Lupe still had time for one more dome!  The Top of the World Highway was beautifully paved for 14 miles from the Canadian border to a junction with the Taylor Highway (Hwy No. 5) at Jack Wade where SPHP turned N (R).

Following the Taylor Highway 65 miles all the way to its end would have brought the Carolina Dog to the Yukon River again at Eagle, but after only 3 miles SPHP parked on a saddle at a large dirt lot on the SW (L) side of the road.

8-18-19, 6:58 PM, 38 ºF, Taylor Highway 3 miles N of Jack Wade – From here, the topo map showed some sort of a route going 0.5 mile NNE up Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.).  Crossing the highway, Lupe searched for signs of a path up a slope thick with bushes and stunted trees.  She soon discovered an old, deeply rutted jeep or ATV trail.  No markings, but this had to be it.

Steele Creek Dome from the parking area along the Taylor Highway. Photo looks NE.
Starting up the badly eroded ATV trail. Photo looks NE.

Like Davis Dome, Steele Creek Dome was just another big rounded hill.  However, with 500 feet of elevation gain required, climbing Steele Creek Dome would take nearly twice as much effort.  The ATV trail made the trek an easy one, except for one spot where it headed straight into a bog.  Following a side trail, Lupe circled around the L side of the boggy area, and was soon able to rejoin the main route higher.

About halfway up, the trees and even the bushes began to thin out.   The top of the dome didn’t look an awful lot farther.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks NE.

Steele Creek Dome’s summit was a much smaller region than the big plateau at Davis Dome.  Lupe arrived at the W end of a rounded ridge.  She was close to a loose cairn of white rocks.  At the opposite end of the short ridge, a much larger cairn sat on a little high point.

At the top of Steele Creek Dome. Photo looks ENE.

Midway between the two cairns was another high spot unadorned by anything except a cluster of small rocks.  The cluster seemed about as high as where the big cairn was, so Lupe paused here, before continuing on to the big cairn.

At the cluster high point between the 2 cairns. Photo looks E.
Loop by the big cairn. Photo looks NE.
Steele Creek Dome. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like Davis Dome ought to be visible off to the SE, but which hill was it?  Hard to say.  Maybe it really wasn’t in sight?  SPHP was unable to make positive identification.

Big hills and ridges in all directions.  35 ºF.  The N wind was only 15 mph now, but the chill breeze combined with the 360 degree panorama and sinking sun heightened a sense of loneliness and extreme remoteness.   The Taylor Highway stretching off into the distance was the only sign of civilization.  Even it appeared to be completely abandoned.

The Taylor Highway winds off toward Jack Wade junction. The G6 is parked down where the road appears to end toward the R. Photo looks SSW.
Another 62 miles from here to the end of the Taylor Highway at Eagle on the Yukon River. Lupe never went this way. Photo looks WNW.
View to the N.

Staring far to the SW, SPHP suddenly realized that Lupe had been to the highest peak faintly visible on the horizon.   Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), a favorite spot!  The American Dingo had climbed it twice.  Tomorrow Lupe would be going right by Mount Fairplay again.  If the weather held, maybe she could make a 3rd ascent?

Something to look forward to.  Mount Fairplay was awesome!  Still just another big hill, but a really big one.  Over 2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, and 3,000 feet of prominence.

Mount Fairplay (Center) from Steele Creek Dome. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like a long time since way back at the swollen Ogilvie River this morning.  Getting late enough so that Lupe didn’t linger long on remote Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.).

Final moments on Steele Creek Dome. Photo looks NE.
Steele Creek Dome.
3 domes in one day! That’s pretty good, isn’t it?

On the way down, SPHP became engaged in scarfing up luscious, ripe wild blueberries.  The exasperated were-puppy reappeared.  Twice!  The were-puppy’s insistent threats finally persuaded SPHP to move along at a more lively pace.  (End 8:02 PM)

8-18-19, 9:02 PM, 37 ºF, Taylor Highway SSW of Steele Creek Dome – The G6 was pointed NW.  After a dinner of pink salmon and Alpo, a sleepy Carolina Dog munched happily on a rawhide stick.  Outside, the sky was almost totally clear.  Might be a cold night!  So quiet here.  Sunset in 20 or 30 minutes.

Perfectly positioned for it, but the sunset never really developed.  A golden orb hovered briefly on the horizon, then slipped and was gone.

So that’s it from Steele Creek Dome! We’re just getting started in Alaska, though. Hope you join me again for more Dingo Adventures real soon!

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Doing Domes – The Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to the Alaska border, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-24-18)

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