Day 3 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorns!
9:02 AM, 50ºF, base camp 1.75 miles SE of Mather Peaks –
Why take down the tiny house, SPHP? We aren’t giving up, are we?
Nope. Feeling better now, Loop. Decided we might want to gamble after all, and won’t be able to do that if we don’t bring everything with us.
Gamble on what, SPHP?
A loop route, Loopster! After Mathers today, Peak12328 tomorrow, then down to Florence Pass, and back past Gunboat and Mistymoon Lakes.
Oh, the long route! That would be wonderful! I’d love to see Florence Pass and all the lakes again.
Me too, Loop, but I don’t know if it will work. Think it will be OK, but we’ll be in a bit of a pickle, if we can’t make it down to Florence Pass. Anyway, none of that matters until we tag Mathers. So, onward! Puppy ho!
Conditions were perfect last night, yet it had been a restless one. SPHP’s turn had come to wake up queasy in the wee hours, prompting questions about this entire operation. Fortunately, the 3 hour bug had faded away uneventfully. No ill effects, other than causing SPHP to sleep in a bit.
Finally ready, SPHP now hoisted the pack and strapped in. Lupe set off heading NE. Sort of the wrong direction, Mather Peaks(12,400 ft.) was NW, but the plan was to get up to where Lupe could take a peek E down at the Frozen Lakes, then follow Mather’s nearly 1.75 mile long SE ridge over HP11904 and HP11813 to the summit.
Ready to leave base camp. Photo looks NE.
Looked easy from afar, but it only took the Carolina Dog a few minutes to exit base camp’s grassy region and get into the rocks. Progress slowed tremendously, although she still seemed to be getting somewhere. An hour later, SPHP wasn’t so sure. The view wasn’t changing much, the ridge ahead magically remaining always about the same distance away.
Into the talus. Photo looks NE.
Holy moly, Looper! How much farther can it be? Maybe base camp wasn’t as high as I thought it was? This was supposed to be quick and easy!
Quick and easy! Who told you that, SPHP?
No one. I just assumed it would be. Doesn’t look far or steep at all on the topo map.
Well, we’ll get there, SPHP!
Not sure this side excursion is worth it, Loop. We’ve got miles of this stuff to go through today! How badly do you want to see the Frozen Lakes?
Would be sweet, of course, SPHP, but Mather Peaks is highest priority. Want to cut and run on Frozen Lakes?
Run? If only we could! But, yeah, I think we better skip the lakes. Let’s head straight for HP11904.
Turning toward HP11904 (Center). Photo looks NW.
HP11904? Hah! Fat chance! Even that wasn’t happening. After a long, slow trek, Lupe managed to reach the upper S slopes, but the endless scramble among the talus was dreadful work, and the situation didn’t look one bit better higher up. Was there really any benefit to be gained from the effort required to get to the top? Didn’t seem like it.
On the S slopes of HP11904. Photo looks NW.
Gah! This is ridiculous, Loop! New plan!
I’m all ear’s, SPHP!
Not entirely, Looper, but you do have big ones.
Plan C, SPHP! What is it?
Plan C? This is Plan C: No preconceived ideas or routes. Forget HP11904, forget HP11813, forget the SE ridge! Just take whatever seems to be the path of least resistance in the general direction of Mather Peaks.
Pure genius, SPHP! No one else could ever conceive such a brilliant plan!
Mocked by a Dingo! Well, it ain’t the first time. Onward! Puppy ho!
Hardly was such a thing as a path of least resistance, but to the extent that there was one, it was well below Mather Peaks’ SE ridge. Gradually losing elevation, the American Dingo worked her way WNW trying to make maximum use of rare patches of vegetation where momentary bursts of speed were possible.
Plan C did help some. Definitely better than Plans A or B! The going was generally at least somewhat easier. Every now and then, Lupe reached flat spots where it was possible to get comfortable for a few minutes.
During these rest breaks, the Carolina Dog enjoyed fabulous views of Peak 12080, Darton Peak(12,275 ft.), Bighorn Peak(12,324 ft.) and Lost Twin Lakes Peak(12,015 ft.) back to the S.
Making slow, but significant progress on the haphazard Plan C route. Photo looks W.Peak 12080 (L), Darton Peak (L of Center), Bighorn Peak (R of Center), and Lost Twin Lakes Peak (R). Photo looks SSE.
Progress remained slow, but better than it had been higher up. Short bursts of speed were occasionally possible whenever Lupe came to stretches of tundra that linked, or nearly did. However, the next big batch of talus to contend with was always near.
Persistence paid off, though. It eventually became clear that Loopster was finally closing in on Mather Peaks’ E summit.
Getting closer! Mather Peaks W summit (L), E summit (R). Photo looks NW.
Time to start climbing again! Angling more toward the NW, Lupe got close to the SE ridgeline, but didn’t actually reach it until arriving at a flat area at the base of the E summit.
A vertical rock here was suspiciously reminiscent of the vampire Lupe had seen yesterday evening. Passing a nearby outcropping of black rock, Loop entered a talus-filled valley that ran WNW up toward the summit.
Near the top of the SE ridge. Darton Peak (far R). Photo looks SE.At the base of Mather Peaks’ E (true) summit. Suspicious boulder (L), obviously cursed black rock outcropping (R). Photo looks NW.Same spot, looking SE. HP11904 (far L), Darton Peak (far R).Starting up the talus valley. Photo looks NW.
The talus valley was longer than it appeared from below. Fortunately, it wasn’t actually all talus. Partway up, relatively open lanes extended the rest of the way up to the base of a short, steep scramble toward what had to be the top of the mountain.
On easier terrain partway up the talus valley. E summit (Center). Photo looks WNW.At the base of the final scramble. Mather Peaks W summit (far L), E summit (R). Photo looks WNW.Scrambling toward the top. Photo looks NW.
2:59 PM, 60ºF, Mather Peaks(12,400 ft.) E (true) summit – Lupe came up at the ESE end of a roomy plain of talus that rose after a dip toward the true summit at the far NW end. Would only take a couple of minutes to get there, but first she turned to gaze back down Mather Peaks’ SE ridge. HP11904 was easily identifiable nearly 1.75 mile away.
The view was fantastic! To the SSE, Loaf Mountain(11,722 ft.) was in sight between Darton Peak(12,275 ft.) and Bighorn Peak(12,324 ft.). More toward the S, part of the lower Lost Twin Lake was visible nearly 1,700 feet below Lost Twin Lakes Peak(12,015 ft.).
Mather Peaks E summit region. True summit (R). W summit (far L). Photo looks WNW.HP11904 (L), Peak 12080 (R of Center), Darton Peak (R), Bighorn Peak (far R), with Loaf Mountain between them. Photo looks SE.
More mountain splendors were ahead! Crossing the summit plateau, Lupe reached the cairn over by the true summit. She now had a grand view of Mather Peaks’ lower (12,348 ft.) W summit only 0.5 mile WSW. 6 miles WNW, Elk Mountain(11,321 ft.) caught the eye.
Peak12,328, 1.25 miles NW, was of special interest. Might well be the American Dingo’s next destination, if the Florence Pass gamble was a go!
By the Mather Peaks E (true) summit cairn. W summit (L), Elk Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks W.Mather Peaks W summit (L), Elk Mountain (far R). Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.Elk Mountain (far L), Peak 12328 (R of Center). Photo looks NW.
As tremendous as all these sights were, none of them were the actual, grand scenic prize from Mather Peaks. That title was held by the view to the N, where Cloud Peak(13,167 ft.), mightiest of the Bighorn Range, Bomber Mountain(12,840 ft.), and a series of intervening sheer cliffs was on display.
Loop at Mather Peaks true summit with Cloud Peak (Center) and Bomber Mountain (R) beyond. Photo looks N.Peak 12328 (L), Cloud Peak (Center), Bomber Mountain (R). Photo looks N.Cloud Peak (L). The entire ridge in the foreground is all part of Bomber Mountain. Bomber’s true summit is the distant flat knob R of Center. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Mather Peaks true summit! Congratulations, Loopster! Kind of a tough slog for no farther or higher than we had to go today, wasn’t it?
Mather Peaks matter, SPHP, and here we are! Hope you’ve got a chocolate coconut bar in that pack! Think I’ve earned one.
Most definitely time for a rest break. Although smoke was visible to the W and S, it wasn’t close enough to mar the 360º views. Conditions were otherwise near perfect.
Perfect? Nothing but rock up here! Can’t even relax in comfort, SPHP!
Yeah, that was more or less true. SPHP helped Lupe get as comfortable as possible, then fished an army green box out from the rocks below the boulder where the cairn sat. As expected, a registry was inside. It was damp, but SPHP made certain Lupe’s visit was recorded.
The green registry box (Center) in its hiding spot below the SE side of the cairn boulder. Photo looks down.
Any other entries in the registry, SPHP?
Yes, some, but not very many. Couple miles of talus does tend to keep the riff-raff away, Loop.
For a while, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, trying to snooze, or gazing out at the glorious views in all directions. Once sufficiently rested up, the Carolina Dog joined SPHP in wandering about the summit region.
Mather Peaks E summit region from close to the true summit. Peak 12080 (far R). Photo looks SE.Peak 12080 (L), Darton Peak (L of Center), Loaf Mountain (in the distance), Bighorn Peak (Center), Lost Twin Lakes Peak (R) with part of lower Lost Twin Lake below it. Photo looks SSE.HP10841 (L), Ant Hill (10,980 ft.) (Center), Lake De Smet (R) on the horizon, Deer Lake (lower R). Photo looks NE.Loop next to a tiny patch of snow she found to chomp. Mather Peaks E (true) summit (Center). Cairn (L). Photo looks NW.
4:11 PM, Mather Peaks E summit – More than an hour after arriving, Lupe stood again at the true summit with that fabulous view of Cloud Peak and Bomber Mountain beyond her.
Cloud Peak (L of Center) and Bomber Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
Always sad to leave a place anywhere close to as grand as Mather Peaks, but it was time. Sadder yet that, although it wasn’t all that far away, Lupe wasn’t going to have time to visit Mather Peaks’ W summit.
A combination of SPHP’s queasiness causing a late start, the unsuccessful and unnecessary quest to see the Frozen Lakes, SPHP’s usual torpid pace, and shorter days this late in the season were all contributing factors.
Oh, the Carolina Dog could have made it to the W summit, alright, but doing so would have meant having to negotiate a long descent through a sea of talus in the dark. Nope, not worth it! Lupe had spent a delightful full hour plus up at Mather Peaks’ true summit, and that was going to have to be good enough.
Yada, yada! It’s been splendid, but we don’t have forever up here, SPHP! What’s plan D? Are we going back? Did you drag that fully loaded pack all the way up here for nothing? Or are we gambling?
Gambling on Florence Pass, Loop! That’s the good news! Looks like we ought to be able to find a decent spot to camp S of Peak 12328.
SPHP started down first, scrambling SW off the summit before angling NW. The American Dingo soon came bounding after. Another mostly talus march W ensued down to the saddle leading to Mather Peaks’ W summit. Instead of heading for that tempting, forbidden destination, Lupe turned N as soon as possible.
Middle Tensleep Creek valley (L). SPHP started down here, ultimately heading off to the R. Photo looks SW.Final moments on Mather Peaks! Cairn (R of Lupe). Photo looks ENE.Elk Mountain (L), Peak 12328 (R). Ultimate destination, the big saddle (Center). Photo looks NW.Past the worst of the rock on the way down to the grassy area (L). Peak 12328 (Center), Cloud Peak (far R). Photo looks NW.
6:23 PM, saddle between Mather Peaks & Peak 12328 – The descent had been a mostly slow, but gorgeous evening trek. Incredible surroundings, profound solitude! Thus far, Plan D had gone just fine. The tiny house was all set up, and Lupe had what remained of the day to chow down and relax in superb isolation.
Mather Peaks E (true) summit (far L). Ridge to the W summit (R). Photo looks SE.
Can’t be too many Dingos that have ever been here, Loopster!
They’re missing out, SPHP!
That’s a good thing, Loop. Wouldn’t be the same if there was a crowd.
Resting by the tiny house, sunlight streaming over her, tomorrow’s next adventure was just N. Peak12328 looked like a snap. The real question was whether getting down to Florence Pass afterwards would actually be feasible?
Peak 12328 (Center), start of tomorrow’s adventure! Photo looks N.
The Carolina Dog wasn’t worried. She stayed out until the sun was gone before entering the tiny house. Paws twitching as dusk deepened, Lupe set off on more adventures in Dingo Dreamland. Perhaps bounding over the endless talus to visit the lonely W summit of Mather Peaks?
Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming!
9-25-21, morning – Emerging from the store, SPHP was suddenly struck by a change. For the first time in 2.5 months, a crystal blue sky was over the Black Hills. No smoke! The forecast was for highs in the low 90’s ºF the next few days, and, as usual, not a drop of rain. Returning to the RAV4 where Lupe was waiting, a spur of the moment decision.
Loopster, it’s on!
Oh, that’s fabulous, SPHP! Great news! Mind telling me what on earth you’re babbling about?What’s on?
Mather Peaks(12,400 ft.), SE of Florence Pass, way up along the spine of the Bighorns, was what was suddenly on. Summer of 2021’s unexpected last gasp! The rest of the morning and better part of the afternoon were spent furiously packing. The sun was down, but it was still light out, by the time Lupe hopped out of the RAV4 for a look at the mountains.
Approaching the Bighorns. Photo looks W from I-90 near Buffalo.
9-26-21, 6:22 AM, at a big paved pullout N of Hwy 16 –
You’re awake, Loopster? Good! I’ve been looking at the map. Would sure love to camp at Gunboat Lake tonight, and come at Mather Peaks from the NW tomorrow, or the next day. Think that’s doable based on what we saw up at Florence Pass back when we went to Bomber Mountain in 2018. Not entirely sure that route will go, though, and it’s definitely the long way around. Quite a bit shorter, and probably wiser, to come up from the S off Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065. Anyway, how are you feeling? Ready for some glorious Bighorn Mountains action?
Ears drooping, sad hazel eyes stared back at SPHP. A moment later, Lupe puked all over the RAV4’s dash.
Feeling that marvelous, aye? Don’t worry about it, Loop. I’ll clean it up!
9-26-21, 8:12 AM, 37ºF, West Tensleep Lake trailhead – Nothing quite like puking your guts out for a good holistic cleansing to get your day off on the right paw! By the time SPHP was ready, the American Dingo was feeling much better as she set off on Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065.
About to leave the West Tensleep trailhead.
Loop searched for squirrels as the trail headed NNE through the forest for 0.75 mile before turning E, and descending to a clearing along Middle Tensleep Creek. The creek was very low this time of year, but cold, clear, and invigorating.
Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065. Photo looks NNE.The first small clearing after the trail turns E. Photo looks ESE.Entering the Middle Tensleep Creek valley. Photo looks ESE.Checking out Middle Tensleep Creek. Photo looks SW.
After crossing a tiny tributary, Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065 followed Middle Tensleep Creek upstream only a short distance. Almost as soon as the trail reached the forest again, there was a nice waterfall off to the R. Would have been a great place for a picnic, but it was still way too early for that.
Following Middle Tensleep Creek. Photo looks E.At the waterfall. Photo looks S.
After visiting the waterfall, Loopster returned to the trail, which now left Middle Tensleep Creek behind as it turned NE, climbing steadily through the forest. 0.75 mile got the American Dingo up to a clearing on the side of a hilltop. A high stony mountain was visible roughly 4 miles away.
Is that Mather Peaks, SPHP?
Not sure, Loop. Hard to tell from here, but that’s the right vicinity. Might be Mather’s W summit, which isn’t quite as high as the E one.
Mather Peaks W summit (Center)? Photo looks NE.
From this initial viewpoint, the trail jogged SE before turning NE again. Near this turn there was a view of Lost Twin Lakes Peak(12,015 ft.). Other mountains were in sight, too, as the trail descended toward a big open section of the Middle Tensleep Creek valley.
Lost Twin Lakes Peak (Center). Photo looks ESE.Near Middle Tensleep Creek (Center) again. Lost Twin Lakes Peak (L). Photo looks SE.
The trail flattened out. Remaining well N of Middle Tensleep Creek, it went no farther into the valley. Lupe was soon climbing back up into the forest again. After a relatively short stint N, the trail curved SE, crossing a larger tributary of Middle Tensleep Creek. Happily, an easy rock hop this time of year!
Along a flat stretch paralleling Middle Tensleep Creek (R). Photo looks E.Crossing the large, low-running tributary ofMiddle Tensleep Creek. Photo looks SE.
Immediately after crossing the tributary, a short climb led to a minor high point featuring another clearing, and yet another view NE. Mirror Lake wasn’t far from here. Leaving the trail, Lupe soon caught glimpses of it beyond the trees.
Off-trail near Mirror Lake (R). Photo looks NE.
Continuing on down to the lake, Lupe explored much of its SW shore. The pristine lake lived up to its name. A fried chicken break was taken more to justify prolonging Lupe’s stay than out of hunger.
Mirror Lake. Photo looks NE.So beautiful!Along the S cove. Photo looks NNE.
Even a big chunk of fried chicken didn’t last long. Loop was soon back on Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065, which passed close to Mirror Lake’s S cove, but never actually went to it. Instead, the trail by-passed the lake, continuing NE up the Middle Tensleep Creek valley.
Returning to Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065. Middle Tensleep Creekvalley (Center) ahead. Photo looks E.
In a flat area not far from Mirror Lake, the trail again got quite close to Middle Tensleep Creek. Naturally, Lupe sauntered over for a look.
Middle Tensleep Creek. Photo looks S.By scenic Middle Tensleep Creek, Photo looks W.
The easy flat stretch only went so far before the valley narrowed. Lupe was soon climbing fairly steeply up the side of a V-shaped section where she got nearly 100 feet above the stream.
Well above the creek now. Photo looks ENE.
Lugging a heavy pack, SPHP was glad when the trail flattened out as the valley widened again.
Hey, SPHP! Look off to the R. Isn’t that Darton Peak? We were there less than a year ago, remember?
Yup, you’re right, Loop! How could I forget Darton? So many humongous boulders near the summit, I wasn’t sure we would find a way up.
We made it, though, SPHP!
We did, Loop, but still worries me a bit. Wouldn’t be surprised if we run into a similar situation at Mathers. Might get a little dicey! The rocks we see don’t look all that impressive from way down here, but there’s so much talus along the spine of the Bighorns.
The trail flattens out again. Darton Peak (far R). Photo looks E.
By the time the trail got close to Middle Tensleep Creek again, Miss Hot Paws was ready for a drink.
Near Middle Tensleep Creek again. Peak 12080 (L), Darton Peak (R). Photo looks ESE.By beautiful Middle Tensleep Creek. Peak 12080 (L), Darton Peak (R).Miss Hot Paws no more!
Beyond this next flat stretch along the stream, the trail climbed again. However, it soon topped out, as it turned SE. The headwall toward the region where the Lost Twin Lakes are hidden away at the upper end of the valley was now in sight.
Hey, Loop! Let’s take a break. I need to check the map.
Leaving the trail, Lupe was quite happy to relax in the shade of nearby pines for a few minutes. Her appetite recovering now after her early morning queasiness, the Carolina Dog even enjoyed some of the fried chicken that SPHP had taken to munching on again.
At the minor high point where Lupe left the trail. The Lost Twin Lakes lie hidden beyond the forested headwall seen R of Center. Photo looks SE.
Alrighty! Think we need to abandon Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065 here, Loop, to head N. In fact, we could have turned N a little earlier. If we wait any longer, we’ll go up the wrong valley.
Sounds great, SPHP! Exploring new territory – my favorite thing! Other than squirrels, of course.
Abandoning Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065 for good, the American Dingo started N through a rumpled region that was mostly forested. She was climbing most of the time, but not at any great pace, since the idea was just to intercept the floor of a side valley that went N to two small lakes.
Although there were some rocky spots, this was all easy terrain. For quite a long way, Lupe enjoyed roaming in and out of the forest, and all seemed to be going according to plan.
Ready to abandon Lost Twin Lakes Trail No. 065 to head N. Photo looks N.Heading up a rocky shelf. Photo looks N.Looking good! About to cross a flat region. Photo looks N.Angling higher over exposed bedrock. Photo looks NE.A beautiful, easy slope ahead. Photo looks NNE.
The forest began thinning out, and the terrain was getting rockier, when Lupe first caught sight of the valley she was supposed to be going up.
Getting rockier!A little above the intended valley route seen below. Photo looks WNW.
Rather than having intercepted the valley, Lupe was already somewhat above it. Would have been easy to simply head down to it, and actually looked like the thing to do. The broad valley floor appeared to be gently sloping terrain. Going up it ought to be cake!
Yet, as usual, SPHP was reluctant to surrender elevation already gained. Urging Lupe onward, progress continued as the terrain kept steepening. She soon had a splendid view of Lost Twin Lakes Peak(12,015 ft.) back to the S.
Lost Twin Lakes Peak (L of Center). Photo looks S.
For a while, staying high seemed to be working. However, inevitably, the American Dingo encountered more and more rock. Lupe was now so high above the valley floor that going down to it would have been much trickier, and involved lots more elevation loss.
Way above the valley now. Photo looks WNW.
Mather Peaks(12,400 ft.) was visible above and beyond the upper end of the valley, although it wasn’t clear if the true summit was in sight yet. An awful lot of rock was between here and there!
Mather Peaks (Center). True summit region (R of Center). Photo looks N.
Checking the topo map again, a steep, but feasible slope to the E must have led up to the region near HP10827. Unfortunately, that meant it was too soon to turn E.
The route up to HP10827, which SPHP vetoed. Photo looks E.
Scrambling past a bit of a bulge W, Lupe got a better look at the territory ahead. The branch of the valley following a creek NE that she should have been taking was now in sight, tantalizingly sweeping obstacle-free toward her destination farther N. Meanwhile, up where the American Dingo was, the slope ahead was nothing but a giant jumble of rock.
Should have been down by the trees at lower L following the valley up to the R. Photo looks N.
A slow, deliberate, rock-hopping slog N through the talus ensued. At least the rocks weren’t so huge that progress was impossible, forcing a retreat, and the scenery was magnificent! Looper had plenty of time to enjoy it, while SPHP stumbled onward.
Looking up the bulge that Lupe had to skirt. Photo looks E.Encountering a minor ledge. Photo looks N.The incredible view! Mather Peaks W summit (R). Photo looks NNW.
Losing considerable elevation was unavoidable, or the rock hop would have gone on much longer. SPHP finally got past the worst of the talus. A tawny grassy area was now not too far ahead, where the lovely valley route and SPHP’s ludicrous rock tour route would converge.
Relief ahead! Bound for the upper grassy area (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.Looking back. SPHP’s rock tour route (Center), versus the pleasant valley route (far R). Photo looks SSW.
The situation improved steadily. Oh, yeah! This was what the route was supposed to be like, grassy and smooth, with scattered boulders merely for scenic enhancement rather than an endless obstacle course.
More like it! Mather Peaks (L). Photo looks NNE.
Upon reaching the main grassy region, it encompassed a large area that sloped gradually up to the NE. With virtually no snow remaining on the peaks at this time of year, given the dry appearance of the vegetation, Lupe was delighted to find a spring bubbling out of a hillside.
With cold, clear water, soft grass, and splendid surroundings at paw, plus a growing weariness to contend with, a rest break was in order. Easily conning SPHP out of a chocolate coconut bar, the Carolina Dog took advantage of the opportunity.
By the wonderful water fountain. Photo looks NNE.Oh, yeah! We’re in Dingo territory now! Photo looks SW.Doesn’t get much better than this, does it? Photo looks W.Enjoying a Dingo nap near the spring. Photo looks NNW.
What a great spot, SPHP! Why not camp right here?
Tempting indeed, Loopster! But I think we should gain as much elevation as we can today. Expecting an awful lot of rock to contend with tomorrow, so even though we aren’t that far from Mather Peaks, let’s keep going.
Nearly an hour slipped away before the Carolina Dog bid the cheerful spring a fond farewell. Avoiding rivers of rock as much as possible, Lupe continued NE up a broad slope.
Heading higher again. Photo looks NE.
The broad slope went on and on, the rate of climb gradually decreasing as Loop roamed higher. At long last, SPHP was weary enough to call it good in a grassy region that didn’t extend as luxuriously much farther anyway. Lupe relaxed, while SPHP assembled the tiny house.
Taking it easy while SPHP sets up the tiny house. Photo looks SW.Mirror Lake (Center) from Mather Peaks base camp. Photo looks SW.Mather Peaks W summit (R of Center). Photo looks NW.Loopster inside, checking out the tiny house. Photo looks NNE.
9-26-21, 6:33 PM, Mather Peaks base camp – Nearly 2 hours after arriving at base camp, Lupe emerged from the tiny house. After a bite to eat and that nice long break, even SPHP felt somewhat revived. Late September now, though, so the long days of summer were no more. The sun would remain above the horizon only another half an hour, if that.
Emerging from the tiny house. Mather Peaks W summit (L of Center), E (true) summit (R of Center). Photo looks NW.
How high are we here, SPHP?
Hmm. Not sure, Looper. I’d guess around 11,300 or 11,400. Still a good 1,000+ feet to go tomorrow.
1,000 isn’t that much, SPHP! We did way more than that already today.
Oh, yeah! Close to 3 times as much, counting all the ups and downs.
Weren’t that many downs, SPHP, but you’re probably right. Sure looks like we’re high in the Bighorns now. Look at how tiny Mirror Lake is!
Yes, a splendid view isn’t it? Want to see another one, Loop? Bet we can see Darton Peak(12,275 ft.), if we go another 0.25 to 0.50 mile E.
Sure, if you think you’ve got it in you, SPHP!
I do. Not all that steep up here, and not having to lug the pack will make a huge difference.
A pleasant romp E up a gentle alpenglow lit slope ensued. Before long, a tall dark figure, wide at the shoulders, could be seen ahead.
What is that, SPHP? A vampire?
Sort of looks like one, doesn’t it, Loop? Must be a shadow, though. What would a vampire be doing way up here?
What vampires do everywhere, SPHP! Sucking blood!
Oh, poo! No blood up here, Loopster! Haven’t seen any wildlife at all.
There’s our blood, SPHP! Tonight, while we snoozing in the tiny house!
Well then, let’s go beat the crap out of that vampire right now while the sun is still up, Loop! No sense waiting until it’s pitch dark to take it on. Vampires are stronger at night!
The ferocious American Dingo charged ahead, intent upon tearing into the vampire! Meanwhile, SPHP’s distance estimate proved accurate. Darton Peak, and even the top of Bighorn Peak(12,324 ft.), soon came into view off to the S.
Darton Peak (Center), Bighorn Peak (R) in the distance. Photo looks S.
As Lupe approached, the vampire changed, glimmering at first, then starting to glow!
Hah! Did you see that, SPHP? This wimpy vampire is terrified of Carolina Dogs! Transformed itself into just another rock before I could get at him.
Might say he’s petrified, Loop! Hope he stays that way.
By Vampire Rock. Peak 12080 (far L), Darton Peak (L), Bighorn Peak (Center), and Lost Twin Lakes Peak (far R). Photo looks S.
Another 0.25 mile E might have gotten Lupe to a view of Angeline Lake, but Vampire Rock was as far as she went. Darton Peak, Bighorn Peak, and Lost Twin Lakes Peak were all splendid from right here. Besides, the sun was already almost on the horizon. By the time Loop made it back to base camp, it was gone.
Big day tomorrow! At least the American Dingo could snooze peacefully without having to worry about any wayward vampires!
Sunset near Mathers Peak base camp, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 9-26-21
Days 29 – 33 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!
9-3-21, morning, Medford, Oregon –
I thought we were going to California, SPHP! I’ve never been to California.
Intended to, Loop, in fact, we’re almost there, but you see how it is. The smoke is worse than ever! I give up! We’ve been gone nearly a month, and have scarcely seen a drop of rain the entire time. Never gets any better. It’s over. Might as well go home!
Over! My Dingo Vacation is over?
Oh, I don’t know, Loopster. Maybe not, maybe Canada is shipping clean air into Wyoming or Montana? We might find blue skies somewhere along the way back. If we do, we’ll climb some more mountains.
Promise, SPHP?
Sure, but don’t get your hopes up, sweet puppy. The way this summer has gone, I’m really not all that optimistic. Might not be anything other than 1,500 miles of smoke between here and the Black Hills.
9-3-21, 10:57 AM, Diamond Lake –
What do you think, SPHP? Looks pretty good doesn’t it?
Standing on a dock along the E shore of Diamond Lake, the American Dingo was smiling. Beyond the big lake, Mount Bailey(8,368 ft.) was backed by a surprisingly blue sky. Not perfect, still some smoky haze present, but vastly improved from choking white sky not so far away back at Medford.
Mount Bailey from Diamond Lake. Photo looks W.
What can I say, Loop? I’m shocked, amazed! Who would have believed it just a couple of hours ago? Want to climb Mount Bailey?
Of course! Sky looks blue to me, SPHP! You promised we could!
9-3-22, 12:52 PM, Mount Bailey trailhead – After a lunch of chicken and dumplings shared with the Carolina Dog at the South Shore Picnic Area, SPHP had driven W along the loop road around Diamond Lake to a turn onto USFS Road No. 300 near the lake’s SW end. Less than 0.5 mile SW through the forest on the dusty, unmarked road got Lupe to the lower Mount Bailey trailhead.
Plenty of parking, but only one other vehicle, a white pickup, was here when SPHP parked the RAV4. No amenities, other than a sign for Mount Bailey Trail No. 1451, and another one prohibiting campfires.
About to set out for Mount Bailey on Trail No. 1451. Photo looks NW.
Lupe had barely gotten started, when the trail dipped twice, the first time crossing a bridge over a minor bone-dry ravine. The trail then headed WNW climbing slowly through the forest.
For a long way, there was nothing to see except trees, which wouldn’t have been disappointing at all, except that there didn’t seem to be any squirrels. In excellent condition, No. 1451 eventually steepened, twice climbing more aggressively only to reach much flatter terrain again.
Mount Bailey Trail No. 1451, half an hour from the lower trailhead.Climbing more steeply.
Switchbacks eased the way up to the second flat region. Upon reaching this area, Loopster enjoyed glimpses of Diamond Lake and the dramatic spire of Mount Thielsen(9,182 ft.) off to the NE. Both were quickly lost from sight as the trail continued NW.
The second flats went on for more than 0.5 mile. No. 1451 even dipped slightly. The sky still looked blue when Looper caught sight of Mount Bailey again.
Traveling the flats.A rare glimpse of Mount Bailey from the forest. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
The flats were incredibly easy going. Progress was great, but, of course, that couldn’t last. Not while climbing a mountain!
A sunny clearing. Photo looks NW.In the beautiful forest.
More than 2 miles from the lower trailhead, Lupe reached some old logs next to a sandy road that went by the upper trailhead. Once again, no amenities at all, other than plenty of parking here, too, but this time, not even a single vehicle around. The whole place was deserted.
At the upper trailhead where Trail No. 1451 crosses USFS Road No. 380.
After a short break, Lupe continued on. The upper trailhead marked the end of the last flat region. After leaving it, Trail No. 1451 climbed steeply for a little way, then eased up somewhat. That didn’t last, though. For the better part of an hour, SPHP trudged higher after Lupe before the best view yet of Mount Thielsen and Diamond Lake appeared.
Mount Thielsen beyond Diamond Lake. Photo looks ENE.
The climb continued at a fairly aggressive pace. Every now and then, part of Mount Bailey’s NE ridge came back into sight. At first, it still looked a lot higher, but Lupe was steadily gaining on it.
Mount Bailey (R) again. Still a long way up! Photo looks NW.Heading higher! Photo looks WNW.
Much more disturbing was a change in the smoke situation. Lupe had caught sight of Mount McLoughlin(9,495 ft.) far to the S, back when the forest first began thinning out. Should have taken a photo then, but didn’t. Suddenly, smoke was pouring in out of the SW. Half an hour, and the smoke obliterated not only Mount McLoughlin, but all distant views.
Just when things were getting interesting, too! With fewer and fewer trees around, Lupe should have enjoyed some wonderful views, but no. Mount Bailey was all the remained of the world. As the Carolina Dog pressed on, the terrain became increasingly rocky. Happily, the rocks weren’t large, and Trail No. 1451 remained in good shape.
The ding dong smoke was discouraging, dismaying, but nothing to be done about it. Loop was already 2/3 of the way up the mountain.
Mount Bailey’s NE ridge (Center) as visibility begins to deteriorate. Photo looks NW.
Starting to get rocky as the trees thin out.Rockier and smokier by the minute!
A high point came into view off to the NW. Instead of going directly to it, which appeared perfectly possible, No. 1451 turned W. Soon it became apparent that the trail was destined to sweep around the S and W sides of a huge crater.
A high point (R) appears off to the NW.Near the SW edge of the crater. Photo looks NW.
Oh, I know where we are now, Looper! Read about this crater. It’s just S of Mount Bailey’s summit ridge. We’re only 0.5 mile from the top now!
0.5 mile to go? That’s great! We’ve made a lot of progress, SPHP!
Yup. Still a bit of a climb, though, sweet puppy. Say, want to go take a peek into the crater? It’s supposed to be full of snow.
Snow! You know I’d love a romp in the snow, SPHP!
Briefly leaving the trail, Lupe went over to the rim of the crater. Nada. Although the crater was a cool feature, not only was it not full of snow, there wasn’t even a flake. Loopster was crushed.
Peering into the crater. Photo looks N.
Fake news! Why am I not surprised, SPHP? Except for the coast, Oregon is a land of fire and smoke.
Land of global, or at least local, melting, Loop. Sorry about that. Guess a crater full of snow in early September is just too good to be true.
After getting around the W side of the crater, Trail No. 1451 turned NE, finally on its way up to the high point. Before Lupe even got there, the long ridge leading N to Mount Bailey’s summit came into view. A large chunk of the middle looked rugged enough to be a problem.
About to leave the crater behind. Photo looks SSE.Mount Bailey (L of Center). Photo looks N.Mount Bailey summit (Center), and the S ridge leading to it. Photo looks N.
By the time Lupe reached the high point at the S end of the nearly 0.4 mile long ridge, a better break than SPHP’s usual short breathers was in order. After briefly getting up on the highest rocks, Lupe tried to doze on the gritty soil immediately below them.
Through the haze, Mount Bailey’s summit was now in view. Smoothly contoured, it appeared pretty much featureless, an easy walk-up, but getting that far might be an issue. From the S high point, Trail No. 1451 headed gradually down a gently rounded pumice ridge toward a jagged central volcanic section that Lupe would have to get past.
On the S high point. Photo looks SSE.Taking a break after a long climb.Mount Bailey summit ahead! Photo looks N.
10 minutes, and the Carolina Dog was underway again. The cinder ridge was a fun, easy downhill stroll. Upon reaching the volcanic spine of the mountain, Loop passed through a break between rock formations.
Leaving the high point at the end of the S ridge behind. Photo looks S.About to pass through the gap at the start of the volcanic spine. Photo looks N.
Trail No. 1451 didn’t bottom out until after passing through the gap. By then, Lupe had lost nearly 100 feet of elevation. A short steep climb was now immediately ahead. Hugging the W side of the volcanic spine of the mountain, the trail became a steep trench worn in loose, gray soil.
Regaining at least half of the elevation she’d just lost, Lupe passed a big hole in the wall. Should have been a window with a spectacular view E toward Diamond Lake and Mount Thielsen, but the smoke was too bad see what was out there.
Going up the steep trench. Photo looks N.At the window. Photo looks E.
Beyond the window, the trail climbed a little more before leveling out. Still heading N right along the W side of the wall, Lupe traveled along a bit of a ledge that wasn’t quite as steep as the rest of the slope below.
Following the spine of the mountain. Photo looks N.Traveling the ledge. Photo looks N.Crossing a minor rock slide. Photo looks N.
For hundreds of feet, both the rocky spine of the mountain and the ledge below it were unbroken, but all the while, suspense was building.
So far, so good, SPHP!
Yes, most encouraging, but somewhere ahead there’s trouble waiting, Loop.
Trouble? What kind of trouble, SPHP?
I’ve read there’s some kind of a scramble move required. Not supposed to be all that big of a deal, and only at one critical spot, but who knows if it’s something we can manage, or not?
Loop was almost all the way to the N end of the wall when the ledge she was following and Trail No. 1451 both appeared to come to an abrupt end. This was it! The Mount Bailey moment of truth! Pass the scramble test, or be denied.
At the end of the ledge where the trail seemed to end, looking up, a notch was visible in the wall of rock. The moment SPHP saw it, the answer was clear.
I can’t see from down here, SPHP! What’s it look like? Can we get up there?
Can you leap 3 times your height? No way Lupe could make that jump. However, although the rock wall was still vertical, it was only 5 or 6 feet up to the bottom of the narrow notch. Plenty of decent pawholds, too!
Luck of the Dingo! You’re golden, sweet puppy!
Hoisting the Carolina Dog in a mighty Flying Dingo move, SPHP got Lupe up to the bottom of the notch, then scrambled up after her.
Loopster above the notch. Photo looks N.
Once above the notch, it was clear that the rock wall had veered away from the ridgeline, but no matter. Trail No. 1451 continued higher from here. One complete switchback, and Lupe actually was up on the ridge.
And that was it! The worst was over. Still a bit of a trudge higher, but no more ledges, rock walls, or super rocky spine to contend with. The trail easily swung around, or went right over, scattered rock formations that presented no further difficulties at all.
Up on the ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.Easy as pie! Photo looks N.Almost there! Photo looks NNW.
5:09 PM, 70ºF, Mount Bailey(8,368 ft.) – A gently rounded summit 30 feet in diameter was as featureless as it had appeared from a distance. Small clumps of diminutive vegetation along the S and W rim scarcely broke the dusty monotony of gray pebbles and soil. Near the center of this forlorn region, Lupe stood on a flat rock at the base of a cairn.
Mount Bailey summit. Photo looks NW.Made it!
All around her, the American Dingo enjoyed completely unobstructed 360 degree views of smoke. No distant views at all.
Sadly, the entire world still consisted of Mount Bailey, and little else. Lupe did have a hazy view of the high point she’d been to at the far end of the S ridge she’d come up. Toward the W, the mountain sloped more gently along a rounded bulge too short to be considered a ridge.
Looking back along the S ridge (R). Photo looks SSE.Another angle. S ridge S high point (Center) in the distance. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.Looking down the W bulge. Photo looks W.
A much larger region extended NE toward a high point 0.25 mile away. In fact, that end of the mountain connected with grasslands sloping away to the NW that looked like an easier route up Mount Bailey than the way Lupe had come. The trail actually continued NE. Looked like it would be fun and easy to explore those relatively nearby highlands, too.
The trail continued on toward the NE highlands. Photo looks NE.Another look showing more of the grasslands. Photo looks NNE.These grasslands (L & Center) would have been easy to get to as well. Photo looks SE.
Lupe didn’t, though. Not under these conditions! Wouldn’t see much more even if she did. Besides, it had been a long trek up the mountain, with only a few short breaks. Time to rest! Attempting to relax on the barren ground, the Carolina Dog found it a bit rocky for true comfort.
Resting on Mount Bailey. Photo looks SW.Catching a few winks. Photo looks NE.
In the meantime, while trying not to think about all the particulate being inhaled with every breath, SPHP had a look around. The cairn harbored a rusty cannister, which might well have contained a registry. Getting at it, though, would have required disassembling so much of the cairn that SPHP didn’t bother.
20 feet NE of the cairn, a bent metal rod stuck 6″ up above the ground. Only half of a survey benchmark attached to the top remained. The part that might have once been stamped “Bailey” was missing.
What was left of the survey benchmark.
Unsurprisingly, that was about it for summit highlights. SPHP sat down next to Lupe, stroking her soft ears.
Too bad we didn’t get here a couple of hours earlier, Loop. Might have had a fabulous view of Diamond Lake, Mount Thielsen, Mount McLoughlin, and even Crater Lake.
Keeps happening, SPHP. Looks promising when we set out, but before we can get to the top, the wind shifts and we get smoked out. Remember how blue the sky was down by Diamond Lake?
Yup. Guess there are just too many big fires around, Looper. Wind needs to be perfect to avoid all this smoke.
A chocolate coconut bar had been shared as a morale booster on the way up the mountain. After congratulating Lupe on her successful ascent of Mount Bailey, SPHP now split the second and final one with her.
Despite the annoying smoke, Lupe remained on Mount Bailey for her traditional full summit hour. Mostly she wanted to rest, but whenever SPHP left her side to stroll about, Loop dutifully got up, too.
You know, Loop, there’s a good chance that this ascent of Mount Bailey will be the last summit of all your Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacations. Kind of a sad thought, isn’t it?
Hope there’s more to come, SPHP, but we’ve had a wonderful time, haven’t we? And we did find some blue sky along the West Coast, and a few other places as well!
True enough, but summit hour had fled. A last look around. It was time.
Ready to go. Photo looks N.Final moments on Mount Bailey.Starting down. Photo looks S.
As Lupe started back down the S ridge, the smoke seemed a little better. A bluish tinge was discernable in the sky, and evening light piercing the haze began bringing out the colors of the rocks.
The return was fun! Especially the scenic trek down to the notch, and thence along the ledge next to the volcanic spine of the mountain on the way back to the pumice ridge and S high point.
Heading back down to the notch. S ridge high point (Center). Photo looks S.Safely below the notch, following the ledge along the wall of rock again. Photo looks S.A particularly impressive section of the wall. Photo looks S.About to head down the trench. S ridge high point (Center). Photo looks S.
By the time Lupe reached the window, its rocky frame was on fire with a diffuse smoke-enhanced orange alpenglow. Visibility really was better! Nothing so grand as a view of Diamond Lake or Mount Thielsen, but at least Loop could see Mount Bailey’s steep E slopes.
Back at the window. Photo looks SE.
The sun set, light faded, and night arrived. At the upper trailhead, it was so dark that the little flashlight came out. Still 2 miles to go. No worries, though. Even at night the trail was easy to follow, but the smoke must have been getting worse again. By the time Lupe arrived back at the RAV4, the smell of burnt wood permeated the gloom. (8:53 PM, 52ºF)
9-4-21 – Mount Bailey was it, as far as Lupe’s 2021 adventures in Oregon were concerned. Morning dawned exceptionally smoky. Time to get out of here! Maybe skies were blue elsewhere?
Out of the Cascades, heading N to Bend on Hwy 97 before turning E. Smoke, not fog.
If so, Lupe never saw them. Despite gradual improvement, smoke was everywhere on the long drive E. Mountain after mountain had to be dropped from the American Dingo’s list of peakbagging possibilities. At day’s end near Jerome, Idaho, a red sun sank into the murk before even reaching the horizon.
9-5-21, predawn, Hwy 34, Caribou Mountain pullout, E Idaho – Low in the E, Orion was shining brightly as Lupe headed W along the highway. The Carolina Dog was far more interested in cows heard mooing nervously, but otherwise still cloaked by darkness up the hillside to the N.
Those stars promised a clearer sky, and W of the Wyoming Range after daylight arrived, skies actually were blue. However, as SPHP drove on, it became apparent that this was only an isolated smoke-free pocket. Dense smoke visible both N and S. The blue skies weren’t likely to last long enough to climb any of these big peaks.
S of Bondurant, the Kilgore Creek trailhead near Hoback Peak turned out to be occupied. No hanging out here! At least bison seen along the way in had provided some excitement.
A somewhat encouraging sky over the Wyoming Range.Bison S of Bondurant, Wyoming.
9-5-21, 2:00 PM, Lander city park – Relative clarity over the Wyoming Range had inspired hopes that air quality at the nearby Wind River Range might be even better, but those hopes had been quickly dashed. The Winds were entirely enveloped in smoke.
A stroll along Pine Creek in Pinedale had been a nice break, and after yet another long drive, Lupe was thrilled to be back at the Lander city park, long a favorite with its soft green grass and big shade trees harboring squirrels. She’d get to spend the rest of the day here, while SPHP caught up the trip journal and fretted over what few options remained.
9-6-21, 1:48 PM, 69ºF, High Park Lookout(9,477 ft.), Bighorn Mountains – The great debate was just about over. This is it, last chance! Either the Bighorns panned out, or Lupe’s grand Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast was done.
On the 15 minute trail to High Park Lookout.
W of the Bighorns, hope had pretty much been lost, but during the drive up Tensleep Canyon, air quality had improved. Lupe now stood on the highest rock gazing N toward the spine of the Bighorns.
Bighorn Mountains from High Park Lookout. Photo looks NNE.
Doesn’t look too bad, does it, SPHP?
Better than I expected, Looper. At least we can see the mountains! Still a long shot, though. Mather Peaks(12,400 ft.) is a 3-day backpacking trip for us. Not eager to take that on unless we’re pretty certain smoke won’t move in while we’re on our way up, and you saw how things were down on the prairie.
So, what are we going to do?
I don’t know, Loop. We should probably call it, but I guess we can wait and take another look this evening.
Exploring rocks on the way down.
9-6-21, 6:43 PM, High Park Lookout – Back once more. Maybe a little smokier? Certainly no better. Situation still borderline, inconclusive.
Evening patrol, High Park Lookout. Meadowlark Lake (L). Photo looks N.
Not much different, SPHP!
Nope. If I knew it wouldn’t get any worse, I’d be willing to try it, Loop.
Can we at least stay to see what things look like in the morning, SPHP?
Yeah. We can come back up and decide then. Going to be our absolutely last chance, though. Not going to stick around dithering forever.
9-7-21, 6:46 AM, High Park Lookout trailhead – Excited by a horse, Lupe wanted out of the RAV4 shortly before sunrise. No need to take the trail back up to High Park Lookout. Within minutes, a pink sun told the tale. Some things aren’t meant to be.
Smoky sunrise, Bighorn Mountains.
Definitely worse. It was over. Dragging the trip home out for 3 days hoping for a miracle hadn’t accomplished a thing. No truly blue skies since Lupe had left Ophir Beach along the Oregon coast.
Mount Bailey had been the last great peak of Lupe’s month long Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast. What a terrific journey it had been! Yet it was time for the American Dingo to return to the Black Hills, and start dreaming of 2022.
What? Homeward bound already? But it’s still summer! Do we really have to?Mount Bailey, Cascade Range, OR 9-3-21
