Lupe – Page 28 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 304 – Getting High in the Black Hills with Peakbagger Dennis Stewart (5-5-22)

8:40 AM, USFS Road No. 297 – Oh, it was on, and Lupe was excited! After a quick weather-shortened introductory jaunt with new friend Dennis Stewart out to a couple of peaks of the limestone plateau country yesterday, the weather was much improved. “Stewy” was ready to hit it hard today. Time permitting, 7 of the 14 highest named peaks in South Dakota were on his agenda, and the American Dingo had every intention of getting high with him at each one.

Starting the day in the **Negro Creek valley** along USFS Road No. 297. Photo looks NNE.

With that many peaks to visit, even though none of them were all that hard to get to, there wasn’t going to be a lot of time for dilly-dallying. Within minutes of when SPHP parked the RAV4 at a wide spot along USFS Road No. 297, everyone was ready.

Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) was first. Although actually the lowest peak Dennis would be climbing today, it was the steepest and involved the most elevation gain from the starting point, a little over 900 feet.

Dennis and Loop about to set out for **Medicine Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks W.

An old jeep trail going W from No. 297 got things off to an easy start. Less than 100 feet of elevation gain led to USFS Road No. 297.3F, which wasn’t much help, since 3F ran almost horizontally N/S along the E slope instead of toward the summit. Crossing the road to head straight up the mountain, No. 297.3F was encountered a second time 200 feet higher, but the situation was no different here.

Coming up the jeep trail. Photo looks ENE.

Dennis checks his GPS after reaching USFS Road No. 297.3F. Photo looks SSW.

And checks it again after reaching No. 297.3F a second time. Photo looks N.

After crossing No. 297.3F the second time, that was it for roads. The rest of the way up was merely a fairly steep trudge higher. A little deadfall and a few scattered boulders to contend with, but otherwise a romp through open pine forest.

Loop squinting in weak sunshine for the first time in the last couple of days as she heads up **Medicine Mountain’s E slope**. Photo looks W.

Stewy coming up the **E slope**. Photo looks E.

Loop posing for Dennis on a rock. Photo looks NW.

Starting to get close to the top. Photo looks WNW.

The last 100+ feet of elevation gain was steepest. Dennis preferred to go directly up the E face. However, Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) has two summits, the S one being the true summit. Looper hadn’t been here in nearly 5 years, but SPHP was pretty certain that by angling NW toward the saddle between the two summits, the Carolina Dog could pick up a use trail that would get her to the top.

A little longer, but the Lazy Dingo route worked out perfectly. While Dennis proved his mettle against the mountain, Lupe came to a nicely rounded clearing up at the saddle, easily sniffed out the use trail, and was there in time to greet Dennis as he reached the summit.

On the grassy saddle between the N and S summits. Photo looks SSW.

Up on **Medicine Mountain’s S summit**. Photo looks S.

9:34 AM, Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) – The true summit was a rock tucked in at the base of a small birch tree that was slightly higher than others nearby. After the required summit shot, a short rest break was in order. Lupe shared a chocolate coconut bar with SPHP, and drank some water. Dennis opened a can of cashews, and enjoyed a few while sitting on a big rock, offering some cashews to SPHP, too.

Getting to be a beautiful day! Partly cloudy with blue sky and sunshine. As everyone relaxed, the big view was toward the SE, where several of the highest peaks in South Dakota were visible on the horizon.

Dennis had already been to Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), South Dakota’s high point, many years ago back when it was still officially Harney Peak, and wouldn’t be returning on this trip. SPHP pointed out two others, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) and Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.), that were on his current itinerary.

Looper near **Medicine Mountain’s true summit**, the rock (R of Center) beneath the birch tree. Photo looks NW.

**Black Elk Peak** (far L), **Little Devils Tower** (L), and **Sylvan Hill** (L of Center) all on the horizon. Photo looks SE.

Two peakbagging nuts, plus a can of nuts, on **Medicine Mountain**.

The view NW was of more immediate interest. Dennis’ next 3 objectives, Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.), Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) and Copper Mountain (6,920 ft.) were in sight. In fact, all of the other peaks Dennis intended to climb today were visible from Medicine Mountain, since Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.) was also in view off to the SSW.

**Green Mountain** (L of Center) and **Copper Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

The views were sweet, and Medicine Mountain had been a decent climb, but with so much left to do today, less than half an hour went by before it was already Onward, puppy ho! time. One mountain down, six to go!

10:49 AM, junction of Sixmile Road and USFS Road No. 297.3O – Next up, Copper Mountain (6,920 ft.)! Crossing Sixmile Road, Lupe looked for a spot where an old road once headed N. A little deadfall to contend with, but this open lane made what would otherwise have been an annoying, and needlessly difficult task contending with a thick forest of young pines, a simple one.

Before long, the lane opened onto a big clearing. At the far end, another lane was visible. Following these lanes was the secret to getting to the summit of Copper Mountain without undue aggravation.

At the clearing with the next open lane (R) in sight on the ridge ahead. Photo looks N.

According to the topo map, Copper Mountain’s summit was 0.33 mile due N of where the RAV4 was parked. However, as everyone was getting close to that region, where it was impossible to see much of anything due to all the young pines, SPHP surprised Dennis by insisting that the true summit was actually well off to the E near a line of cliffs.

Trusting the map, Stewy was skeptical to say the least. However, since there was nothing to be seen here, and SPHP assured him that not only was the true summit E, but that the best views by far were available from the cliffs over that way, Dennis went along with the detour.

By now, the wide open lanes were gone, but it was still possible to follow narrower ones through the trees until the terrain began to rise. Soon the forest began opening up as the ground became rockier.

Upon reaching the limestone platform along the E edge of the mountain, Dennis set his GPS unit on what appeared to be the highest rock, and took a reading. After wavering around, it settled in at about 6,946 feet.

Lupe on the rock where Dennis took his GPS elevation reading. Photo looks SE.

After gathering this data point, everyone headed SE to the cliffs at end of the platform where the big views were. A cairn Looper hadn’t seen here before, now sat on the highest rocks along the S edge.

Dennis didn’t bother with another GPS reading, since it seemed unlikely to yield a significantly different result. Instead, several minutes were spent exploring the rocks along the cliff edge while taking in the views. Medicine Mountain stood out 2.25 miles SE, with some of Dennis’ higher objectives well beyond it in the distance.

**Sylvan Hill** (far L) on the horizon, **Medicine Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

Loop and Dennis at the **far SE end of Copper Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

L to R beyond Dennis: **Black Elk Peak**, **Peak 6920,** **Little Devils Tower**. **Sylvan Hill** (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Loopster and Dennis over by the cairn. Photo looks WNW.

Time to head back! Not to the RAV4, but to the region shown on the topo map as Copper Mountain’s summit. Returning to the rock where Dennis had taken the elevation reading, everyone then went WNW, first down a slope, then gradually higher through deadfall and dense young pines tall enough to hide what was ahead.

The terrain flattened out. Dennis reported that, according to the map, this was Copper Mountain’s summit. Laying the GPS unit on a log about a foot above the ground, another elevation reading was taken. In just a moment it would be clear whether SPHP or the topo map was correct about the location of Copper Mountain’s true summit. After bouncing around a bit, the reading settled out at 6,947 ft.

One foot higher than the rock back E! Except that here the GPS unit was a foot above the ground, resting on the log instead of a rock. Within the limits of the GPS unit’s accuracy, it was a tie.

Hmm. Well, so be it. There were no views here at the W summit except of the thick stand of pines in all directions. SPHP didn’t even bother to take a photo, although Stewy did.

12:11 PM – Less than a mile W of where the RAV4 had been parked near Copper Mountain, SPHP turned S off Sixmile Road onto USFS Road No. 693. 0.125 mile, and No. 693 turned SW. After yesterday’s precipitation, the road was pretty soft here, with a couple of ruts in it.

SPHP parked the RAV4. The top of Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) was only 0.4 mile SE. Somewhat more than that following the road, but still within easy reach.

Striking out for Odakota Mountain along USFS Road No. 693. Photo looks SW.

After a jog to the W, the road turned SE, climbing gradually all the time. Halfway to the summit, No. 693 topped out and curved SW toward Long Draw. Abandoning the road, Lupe traveled ESE through a gently sloping field toward a small pillar of limestone near the trees. Coming to a fence a little beyond the pillar, she ducked under it, then followed it S.

Heading for Odakota Mountain’s summit after leaving No. 693. Photo looks ESE.

SPHP’s intention had originally been to go farther E in order to approach Odakota’s summit ridge near the NE end, which past experience had shown to be the easiest route up. The problem coming up from the SW had always been that the barbed wire fence, which ran right by the SW end of the ridge, was broken down and dangerous due to a huge jumble of deadfall that had collapsed upon it.

However, Dennis had left USFS Road No. 693 before SPHP, getting a head start following a jeep trail trail toward the SW end of the summit ridge. Hoping to intercept him, Lupe continued S along the fence all the way to the end of the ridge. Amazingly, since the last time the American Dingo was here more than 4.5 years ago, someone had removed the deadfall and repaired the fence.

Stewy had already made his way up to the summit. A 20 foot climb got Lupe up onto the flat ridge, which was still full of deadfall. Going 200 feet NE, Loop found Dennis where a tall, skinny white rock cairn had once stood. The white rocks were still here, but now all tumbled over. Dennis was busily setting up his tripod and resurrecting the cairn in preparation for his traditional summit selfie.

On the lovely summit of South Dakota’s 2nd highest mountain. Photo looks SW.

12:35 PM, Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) – Poor Odakota Mountain! South Dakota’s second highest peak was a mess. Surviving pines and a crop of new ones grew among what remained of a forest devastated by pine bark beetles 10 years ago. No views from the cairn, although both Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.) and a pond down by the old Boy Scout camp could be seen to the S from a little farther SW along the summit ridge.

Certainly not much up here to make Dennis want to hang around. After getting a group selfie shot, he packed up his camera and tripod, and took the easy way down off the NE end of the ridge. Meanwhile, Lupe and SPHP went to take a quick look at the view of Bear Mountain and the Boy Scout pond. It was actually a little better than the last time Loop had been here, since more trees had fallen over.

**Bear Mountain** (R) and the **Boy Scout pond** (L of Center). Photo looks SSE.

Turning around to leave and catch up with Dennis, SPHP saw something Lupe had never noticed on Odakota Mountain before. Back in the trees, only 25 feet from where Stewy had rebuilt the cairn, there was a sign.

Going over to check it out, the sign said “Odakota Mountain High Point 7,198 feet”. Below it, a round marker set in concrete was stamped “Odakota High Point”. There was also another white rock cairn.

Lupe at the now apparently **official Odakota Mountain high point**. Photo looks N.

The sign must have been here a while. Some of the paint was peeling. Odd that Lupe had never seen it before, but maybe a few years out in the weather was sufficient to get the peeling process underway? This spot really wasn’t discernably higher than where the first cairn was, or most of Odakota’s summit ridge, but the sign and marker were exactly the sort of thing Dennis would be interested in.

SPHP started yelling. Fortunately, Dennis hadn’t gotten too far away yet.

Glancing back at **Odakota Mountain’s summit ridge** from the barbed wire fence after starting back to the RAV4. Photo looks SE.

1:35 PM, junction of Sixmile Road and a faint road – Started out looking like the right spot, but the farther up the faint road Lupe went, the less familiar it all seemed. SPHP must not have driven far enough W to get to Windmill Draw. This was the wrong place. Instead of going a long way up a gentle grassy valley, the faint road merged into an unmarked USFS road near the trees.

It didn’t help when the USFS road played out shortly thereafter. SPHP hadn’t even brought a topo map.

Well, no matter. Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) had to be less than a couple of miles away. Lupe would find it! To SPHP’s recollection, all she had to do was find the E edge of the limestone plateau and follow it N.

On the faint road, setting out for Green Mountain. Photo looks N.

Going through open forest, the terrain kept rising. Eventually there was a lot of deadfall. The E edge of the limestone plateau didn’t materialize. Lupe had never come this way before. Consulting his GPS, Dennis led the way in a direction that seemed 90 degrees off kilter to SPHP.

Lupe finally reached a flat region up on a broad ridge. There was a ton of deadfall up here. A higher hill to the N didn’t look right. None of the terrain looked right. Was this the edge of the limestone plateau? SPHP was expecting a much sharper drop-off, something more cliff-like. No sign of the limestone pillar Lupe used to get up on over by the hill.

Frequently consulting his GPS, Dennis led the way along what appeared to be the only plausible route. Circling along the upper W slope of a big bowl, Lupe leapt over one fallen log after another. An unfamiliar road finally provided relief, leading to a gate near a large, flat clearing.

Still following his GPS, Dennis crossed the clearing. Continuing a little way into the forest, he arrived at a cairn.

Stewy setting up for another group summit selfie.

2:26 PM – Lupe had never seen a cairn on Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) before, but again, it had been more than 4.5 years since she’d been here. Furthermore, this boring spot in the forest did resemble the featureless region SPHP recalled as being all that could be found in the way of a high point where the summit was supposed to be.

As soon as Stewy had his summit selfies, it would be easy to figure out if this was the same place Lupe had been to several times before. If it was, the limestone pillar she used to get up on had to be along the edge of the mountain somewhere near the clearing.

Summit shots taken, everyone headed back there.

Oh, yeah! This was the right place, alright. Going over to the edge of the clearing, slightly down the slope beyond it, there was Lupe’s pillar.

In the **clearing 200 feet SE of the cairn**. **Top of the pillar** (Center) is visible next to Dennis, who is partly behind a tree. Photo looks SE.

Lupe’s Green Mountain limestone pillar (L). Photo looks SE.

After the long, tedious bushwhack through the trackless deadfall-laden forest, and disappointing cairn in the middle of nowhere buried in trees summit, Dennis brightened immediately at the sight of the big sweeping view to the E and SE, and that taunting limestone pillar. If a Carolina Dog could do it, Stewy could, too! The peakbagger in him took over.

Dennis stakes his claim to **Green Mountain’s limestone pillar**. **Black Elk Peak** (L), **Copper Mountain** (Center), **Sylvan Hill** (R of Center), **Medicine Mountain** (R), in front of Stewy. Photo looks SE.

SPHP wasn’t getting up there, but sent a personal representative. Since Lupe hadn’t brought her Dingo wings, SPHP had to give her a boost.

Carefully, carefully! Dennis getting off the pillar.

Lupe’s turn. **Gillette Prairie** (L). Photo looks E.

*Oh, it’s good to be back on the **Green Mountain pillar** again!*

Part of Copper Mountain (far L), **Sylvan Hill** (L), **Medicine Mountain** (Center) with help from the telephoto lens.

A short break was taken before starting back to the RAV4. Dennis was in the habit of texting a photo to family and friends from each summit, and sent out the one of him standing on the pillar. He often got quick, but brief responses. In this case, the most common response was “jump”!

SPHP had to laugh. Always nice to know you’re loved.

A final look at **Green Mountain’s limestone pillar** (L). Photo looks NNE.

4:26 PM – Four down, three to go! Unfortunately, Green Mountain had taken up more time than expected, in part due to SPHP’s error in not parking far enough W at the start of Windmill Draw. Would have been much more of a road hike from there, instead of a bushwhack through deadfall-laden forest.

Couldn’t be helped. Done is done. Happily, Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.), the next objective, was a mere drive-up to a lookout tower. Shortly after turning onto USFS Road No. 293, SPHP was astonished by the amount of logging that had gone on since Lupe had last been here.

In fact, it was still ongoing. 0.5 mile from the summit, a log truck being actively loaded completely blocked the road. Apparently, this was going to take a while. Pulling off the road, SPHP parked the RAV4. Everyone leapt out. After circling past the log truck, the road hike began.

The RAV4 parked a little way off USFS Road No. 293. Photo looks W.

Past the log truck on USFS Road No. 293. Photo looks W.

Approaching the **Bear Mountain fire lookout tower**. Photo looks E.

Lupe had once paid a visit to the ranger at the top of the tower. On a clear day, it was possible to see Laramie Peak (10,272 ft.) in Wyoming. Unfortunately, the tower wasn’t open for the season yet. A sign said it was closed to the public.

A survey benchmark and another sign showing the elevation were at the base of the tower, but there wasn’t a view from here without actually climbing the tower. However, Lupe knew there was a nice view from a small limestone outcropping a short distance SE.

At the base of the tower. Photo looks SW.

Loop and Dennis on the limestone outcropping SE of the tower. Photo looks ENE.

**Elkhorn Mountain (6,381 ft.)** (far L), **Black Elk Peak** (L), **Little Devils Tower** (Center), and **Sylvan Hill** (R) from the viewpoint.

5:58 PM, Needles Highway No. 87, Little Devils Tower trailhead – Upon reaching the RAV4 after Bear Mountain, Dennis faced a choice. 5 of 7 complete, but delays had chewed up enough time so that climbing both remaining peaks wasn’t going to be possible unless Dennis wanted to be out after dark, which he didn’t.

Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) or Little Devils Tower (6,920 ft.)? SPHP spoke of the differences in what would be involved, since the nature of the routes was so different. Either one had fabulous views.

Really wasn’t a monumental decision. Dennis could climb whichever peak he didn’t get to today tomorrow. In the end, Stewy chose Little Devils Tower as his last summit with Lupe.

Sweet! A great choice! (Both would have been.) 700 feet of elevation gain along a maintained trail that went past scenic granite formations, followed by a fun scramble to the top.

Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 was nearly level as it started up a valley. Lupe was soon passing the first granite formations. The views improved steadily as the trail gradually steepened.

Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4. Photo looks NE.

Big granite formations in a side valley.

Approaching some spires. Photo looks NNE.

After more than a mile, Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 topped out on a ridge near the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). From here, a spur trail split off to the L, heading N. Taking this spur, Little Devils Tower’s massive granite summit quickly came into view.

On the spur trail. Little Devils Tower (R). Photo looks N.

At first, the spur trail was level, or nearly so, but as Lupe got close to the granite, it turned NE and began to climb.

The spur trail starts getting interesting. Photo looks NE.

The spur trail soon topped out at a high spot tucked between huge rock walls. However, this wasn’t the end. Blue arrows painted on the rocks marked the route from here, which now turned NW through a narrow slot in the granite. The first part of the slot was so steep that Loopster needed a boost from SPHP to get up to where she could continue under her own power.

Climbing the slot after an initial boost. Photo looks NW.

Dennis emerging from the slot. Photo looks SE.

Above the slot, minor variations in the route were possible. All involved scrambling up the granite. A little exposure in spots, but not much. The route wound along the granite to a final brief push higher.

Dennis leading the way during the scramble up the granite. Photo looks N.

6:55 PM, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) – Suddenly, Lupe was there! The summit region was a roomy collection of large granite outcroppings and boulders that didn’t vary an awful lot in elevation. There was even a flat area of packed dirt with a bit of vegetation.

The views were incredible! Little Devils Tower is right in the heart of the most rugged part of the Black Hills. While Dennis climbed up onto the highest boulder to tag the true summit, Loopster had a look around. Highlights included Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) a little more than a mile NNE, and the magnificent Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) only 0.25 mile SE.

**Black Elk Peak** (R) from **Little Devils Tower.** Photo looks N.

The **Cathedral Spires**, also known locally as the **Needles**. Photo looks SE.

Dennis made it up onto the true summit boulder. Lupe needed another boost from SPHP to join him.

Stewy over at the high point. Photo looks S.

Loop and Dennis together at the **true summit**. Photo looks S.

6 of 7 complete, but Little Devils Tower was definitely going to be it. The sun was already low. Sylvan Hill wasn’t happening today.

That was alright. Kind of took the pressure off. Lupe, Dennis, and SPHP could all linger for a while in the beautiful evening light.

**Black Elk Peak** from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks NNE.

**Cathedral Spires** (L and Center) in the evening light. Photo looks SE.

Dennis relaxing at the **true summit**. Photo looks SSW.

Over all too soon! Before long, Stewy was at the end of the scramble lower, about to descend from the slot to the spur trail.

So, Little Devils Tower was a happy ending to a fabulous day! Dennis pronounced it easily his favorite peak in the Black Hills. Sometime he was going to have to bring his wife, Geri, up here.

Lupe hopes to welcome her to the beautiful Black Hills on that great day.

With Stewy on **Little Devils Tower**, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-5-22

Note: Dennis did climb Sylvan Hill the next day before heading to Nebraska to continue his peakbagging adventures. Among his greatest goals are (1) climb the 10 highest named peaks in all of the 48 contiguous US states, (2) climb the 10 highest named county high points in each state, (3) visit every state park with his wife, Geri, (4) float the length of rivers in all states that have a river of the same name. At 73, he realizes these are tall orders.

Before departing, Dennis gave Lupe and SPHP an autographed copy of his book 23 Nights Working for the US Treasury Department, which tells of his experiences working for the US government’s most feared agency, the IRS.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 303 – Flag Mountain & Crows Nest Peak with Peakbagger Dennis Stewart (5-4-22)

5-3-22, 1:00 PM, home –

Who was that on the phone, SPHP? The fanatic again?

Yup! He’s run into 3 feet of snow on the road to Crooks Tower (7,137 ft.), so he’s got a much longer hike ahead of him than expected. Going to be running late. Won’t arrive here until sometime this evening now.

The “fanatic” was Dennis Stewart, aka “Stewy”. Neither Lupe nor SPHP knew Dennis, but that was about to change. He was a man on a mission, many missions, actually. Dennis’ purpose on this particular trip was to climb the 10 highest named peaks, plus the 10 highest named county high points, of both South Dakota and Nebraska.

Fanatic wasn’t an unfair label. Dennis owned the tallest indoor climbing wall in the Midwest – 32 feet high, more than 500 square feet of surface area, with an 11 foot overhang – a feature incorporated into his private home! At the tender age of 73, Dennis was still working on so many peakbagging lists that he knew there was no way he would ever come close to completing many of them.

No doubt about it, Loop. Dennis is our kind of fanatic!

After reaching the Black Hills region earlier today, Dennis had already been to both Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) and White Tail Peak (6,962 ft.). Tomorrow, Lupe and SPHP were going to join him on his quest.

At least, that was the plan. Dennis was not only a prolific peakbagger, but a runner, too. At one point in his life, Dennis had helped set a world record in the 2 mile relay as a member of the University of Kansas track team. In 2019, Dennis had won the 800 meter in the Huntsman World Championship in his age category.

Worrisome, actually.

If Dennis takes off running up all the mountains tomorrow, feel free to run right along with him, Loopster. You know me. Not even going to try to keep up.

5-4-22, 9:24 AM, Flag Mountain – Dennis had reassuringly promised not to run up any mountains, although it would have been fine if he did. SPHP had no intention of slowing him down. Flag Mountain (6,937 ft.) wasn’t going to be a problem in any case. A simple drive up. After SPHP parked the RAV4 at the end of USFS Road No. 416, a set of stone steps was all that had to be managed to reach what was left of the old fire lookout tower up top.

The only real issue was the weather. Although Flag Mountain normally offered sweeping views of a huge swath of territory E of the edge of the limestone plateau country, Lupe wasn’t going to get to show off her Black Hills to Dennis here today. Foggy and snowing!

Loop and Dennis arriving at the end of USFS Road No. 416.

On the summit ridge near the remnant of the fire lookout station. Photo looks E.

While Dennis searched for the survey benchmark shown on the map out along the W end of the summit ridge, Lupe got up on what was left of the lookout tower foundation wall. Unfortunately, no hint of the usual grand view was to be seen.

Dennis searching for the survey benchmark. Photo looks W.

Dennis found no sign of the survey benchmark. Loopster had been to Flag Mountain on half a dozen prior occasions. SPHP kind of thought that she actually had seen the benchmark somewhere up here before, but couldn’t find it, either.

Stewy had a routine he went through at each mountain he visited. It was interesting to see how he operated. Verbal notes, some of which were based on his phone’s GPS, were taken by speaking into a portable recorder. Date, time, distance traveled, elevation gain, exact location and elevation, weather and route conditions, what views were present, and anything else Dennis felt might be of interest were all mentioned. This data would eventually serve as the basis of written records and a trip report which he would post online.

Since he usually traveled alone, Dennis also had a separate camera and tripod he could use to take a decent selfie at each summit.

Lupe and Stewy on **Flag Mountain**, their first Black Hills summit together.

Given the weather, there wasn’t much reason to linger. As snowflakes continued to fall, everyone headed back down to the RAV4.

Since tomorrow’s forecast was much better, and Dennis had already spent the last 4 days since leaving home peakbagging, he was inclined to call it a day. After all, why climb mountains in this soup, and not get to see much of anything? In the meantime, he could relax in comfort while catching up on some of his record-keeping.

Made perfect sense, except for two things. The next peak on Dennis’ list was Crows Nest Peak (7,048 ft.). Although not all that far from Flag Mountain, Crows Nest wasn’t anywhere near the other Black Hills peaks Dennis still needed to tag. A quick visit to Crows Nest while in the area made sense from the standpoint of efficiency alone.

Furthermore, Dennis wouldn’t miss out on a thing by making the jaunt up Crows Nest today. At over 7,000 feet, Crows Nest Peak was certainly among the highest points of the entire Black Hills range, but incredibly misleadingly named. The surrounding territory was gently rolling and mostly forested. No distant views of, or from, the summit even on the best of days.

Lupe’s local expert advice was to climb Crows Nest today. Stewy was willing to give it a shot.

5-4-22, 10:23 AM, Boles Canyon Road and USFS Road No. 117.5K – Lupe was happy! She sniffed around while Dennis finished getting ready. Although remote Crows Nest Peak was a favorite place, the Carolina Dog hadn’t been here since the day of her Mighty Dingo Missile Launch nearly 4 years ago. This time, Loop was looking forward to an easy, and less painful, mile long romp up to the red dirt pond near the summit.

USFS Road 117.5K from Boles Canyon Road. Photo looks N.

A faint road took off to the SE through open territory from here. Within just a few minutes, Dennis was ready to go. Lupe, Stewy, and SPHP set off along the faint road, heading for the trees.

The faint road (Center beyond Lupe) serving as the start of the route to Crows Nest Peak. Photo looks SE.

Stewy and Lupe about to set out. Photo looks SE.

Upon reaching the forest, the faint road merged into USFS Road No. 266. After passing through a gate in a barbed wire fence, the steepest part of the trek was ahead. Nothing too difficult, culminating in a snowy stretch near the top.

On USFS Road No. 266, looking back toward Boles Canyon Road. Photo looks NW.

The snowy stretch ended and the road flattened out, becoming a sloppy mess as Lupe entered a clearing that had been logged off years ago. No. 266 began angling E across the clearing. Before long, it would lead to a side spur that went N up to the red dirt pond near the Crows Nest Peak summit, but there was little benefit to traipsing through the mud.

Abandoning the road, everyone headed NE, cutting across the clearing. Lupe was soon in an aspen forest, hopping over deadfall and winding around bushes, as she worked her way up a slope.

In the clearing where No. 266 leveled out. Photo looks E.

As the terrain flattened out again, Lupe reached the spur that came up from No. 266. The red dirt pond was just around the next bend.

Dennis and Loop across the red dirt pond. Photo looks SW.

The Crows Nest Peak survey benchmark was only 300 feet E of the pond, tucked away deeper into the forest. Looper led Dennis right to it. The surrounding terrain was so flat that, as far as could be determined, this really was the mighty true summit of Crows Nest Peak (7,048 ft.).

Dennis and Lupe on the death-defying summit of **Crows Nest Peak**! Survey benchmark in front of Lupe. Photo looks ESE.

While Dennis set about documenting the ascent, SPHP noticed a wooden post roughly 50 feet E of the survey marker. Going over to check it out, Lupe discovered directional survey marker No. 2 only a few feet away.

The “Crow No. 2 1912” directional marker.

Having found the No. 2 directional marker, before departing an effort was made to locate the No. 1 marker. Lupe, Stewy, and SPHP fanned out through the forest. However, a 5 or 10 minute search yielded no results.

Well, Dennis was satisfied. He’d done what he needed to do here. Soon everyone was traipsing back past the red dirt pond again.

This was it for the day. Not much effort had been required, but it had been a pleasant introductory outing with Stewy. Lupe and SPHP had very much enjoyed being back in the limestone plateau country again.

About to head down USFS Road No. 266. Photo looks NW.

Near the end, with the RAV4 in sight. Photo looks NNW.

And the good news, of course, was that Expedition No. 303 was merely a warm-up for more ambitious adventures with Stewy tomorrow!

With Dennis “Stewy” Stewart on **Crows Nest Peak**, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-4-22

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Paulina Peak, Columbia Plateau, Newberry National Volcanic Monument, Oregon (8-27-21)

Day 22 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

7:30 AM, Cascade Lakes Highway –

Elk Lake! Campground and a beach. Want to try it, Loop?

Elk? You mean giant deers, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! What was I thinking? Giant Deers Lake, Looper!

Yes, then! Giant Deers Lake sounds fabulous! Let’s go there, SPHP!

SPHP made the turn. Great choice! Giant Deers Lake was fabulous! No giant deers in sight at the moment, but there were squirrels in the pines. Lupe was happy with that. Colorful sailboats and catamarans were lined up along the water’s edge, and across the lake were terrific views of both Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.) and South Sister (10,358 ft.).

**Mount Bachelor** (L) from **Giant Deers Lake**. Photo looks E.

**South Sister** (Center). Photo looks N.

Lupe had climbed South Sister only yesterday, so the plan was for a rest and repositioning day today. Beyond that, though, nothing was set in stone. SPHP wasn’t even sure if the American Dingo should stay in the Cascades, or head for the coast hoping to escape the wildfire smoke that always seemed to be hanging around.

No need to decide quite yet. The trip journal was way behind. SPHP could work on it right here while enjoying the lovely views.

Some varmint ran under the RAV4. Lupe was thoroughly entertained, watching and waiting for it to emerge for hours. Turned out that Giant Deers Lake was shallow and warm. SPHP enjoyed a refreshing swim. Progress was made on the trip journal, but by mid-afternoon SPHP was sick of that.

Giant Deers Lake had been lovely, but decision time now. Where to?

Kind of a risky choice, Looper, but I’ve been thinking.

Thinking? That is fraught with danger, SPHP, especially when you’re the one doing it!

Uh-huh. No, I mean I’ve been thinking about where we should go next, feisty Dingo! Could maybe do Paulina Peak (7,984 ft.) yet this evening. Would leave us well within striking distance of Diamond Peak (8,744 ft.) tomorrow, which is a big climb that we don’t have time for today. Might be our only chance to hit Paulina before heading to the coast.

Sounds like a plan, SPHP! But what’s so risky about it?

Just that Paulina Peak is off by its lonesome out on the Columbia Plateau E of the Cascades. Might be a lot of wildfire smoke out that way. Could turn out to be a complete waste of time and fuel.

As long as this drought holds, isn’t that always going to be the case on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP? Might as well try it!

The Newberry Volcanic National Monument entrance station was closed when Looper arrived. A sign said visitors should check in at the visitor center. OK, fine. However, the visitor center also turned out to be closed. Huh. Oh, well!

A R turn onto the road that goes to the Paulina Peak lookout was only a short distance beyond the visitor center. Could have, but SPHP didn’t drive all the way to it, parking instead less than a mile up the road at the Paulina Peak trailhead. Lupe would have more fun exploring Crater Rim Trail No. 57 the rest of the way.

5:05 PM, 68ºF, Paulina Peak trailhead – The trailhead was vacant, but within minutes, a pickup with enormous knobby tires pulled in. A guy and a brown dog leapt out. Heading straight for the Crater Rim trail, they immediately vanished into the forest.

Lupe waited for SPHP before she was on her way, as well.

Heading ESE through the forest, Crater Rim Trail No. 57 started out flat or climbing slowly. Not much to see except trees, which didn’t bother the American Dingo in the least, as she kept a sharp eye and keen nose out for squirrels. Occasional blue diamonds marked the route.

Setting out on Crater Rim Trail No. 57. Photo looks SE.

After 0.33 mile, the trail turned S, climbing more rapidly near an edge. Lupe caught glimpses of cliffs high on Paulina Peak’s N face. However, she lost sight of them when the trail veered SW. Ahead, a long straight stretch rose steeply through the forest. Actually, it wasn’t that bad, but sure felt steep after yesterday’s workout on South Sister!

On the long straight stretch. Photo looks SW.

The trail eventually curved S, then E, climbing more slowly again. Lupe reached a much better viewpoint where the same cliffs were visible.

Cliffs along the **N side of Paulina Peak**. Photo looks ESE.

For a little way, the trail trended SE near big drop-offs, or behind a low ridge of sandy soil that ran along them. Down in the Newberry Caldera, Paulina Lake was sometimes visible off to the N.

Behind the sandy bank (L). Photo looks SE.

**SE end of Paulina Lake**. Photo looks NE.

Crater Rim Trail No. 57 made a second foray SW, but this stretch wasn’t as long or as steep as the earlier one had been. The trail turned E again.

On another foray SW, away from the crater rim. Photo looks SW.

Loop was somewhere N of Paulina Peak’s lower W summit, when the guy and the brown dog appeared again, heading this way. Lupe got to meet Daisy. Slender and spry, Daisy was 12 years old, and still climbing mountains! She’d already been to the top of Paulina Peak.

After bidding Daisy adieu, wishing her happy trails, Lupe kept going. Displays began to appear about disappearing whitebark pine forests. The placards said whitebark pines were dominant on Paulina Peak, but increasingly rare throughout much of their former range.

As Loop continued up the mountain, it seemed that the displays were in the wrong order. SPHP got an education on the plight of the whitebark pines in reverse. Meanwhile, Lupe came to more viewpoints.

Getting close to the top (R)? **East Lake** (L). Photo looks NE.

By now, Lupe was already quite high on the mountain. Climbing more slowly again, Crater Rim Trail No. 57 continued E near the N edge. A high flat ridge jutting out to the N turned out not to be the summit. The trail turned SE. A clearing was on the R (S), when Loopster reached a junction with Paulina Peak Trail No. 51.

Signage at the junction with Paulina Peak Trail No. 51.

Only 0.25 mile to the summit! Abandoning Crater Rim Trail No. 57, which veered off to the SW here, Lupe continued SE on Trail No. 51. Whitebark pine displays appeared at regular intervals.

Clark’s Nutcracker – Whitebark’s Best Friend

Views N of Paulina Peak kept improving. In addition to Paulina Lake, East Lake could now be seen down in the Newberry Caldera, too, along with the lower end of the Big Obsidian Flow.

**Paulina Lake** (L). **East Lake** (R) beyond the **Big Obsidian Flow** (R). Photo looks NE.

Near the end, Lupe could see a railing along the upper edge of the next cliff to the SE. Two more whitebark pine displays were along the final short, steep stretch of Trail No. 51.

Almost there! The lookout parking lot is up on the cliff ahead. Photo looks SE.

Whitebark Alert: Mountain Pine Beetle Invasion

6:49 PM, 63ºF, Paulina Peak (7,984 ft.) – Shadows were lengthening when Lupe arrived at a parking lot. Several vehicles and half a dozen people were here. The big views were toward the N and NW, but Lupe’s first order of business was to tag Paulina Peak’s true summit, a collection of boulders capping a 20 foot high hill just W of the parking lot.

The true summit was easy to identify. One big rock in particular was a good foot higher than any of the others. Not a roomy perch, but Lupe easily scrambled up there.

**Paulina Peak’s summit** from the parking lot. Photo looks SW.

Heading up to tag the true summit. **Paulina Lake** (L), **East Lake** (R). Photo looks NNE.

**Paulina Peak summit.** Photo looks WSW.

Paulina Peak was easy, SPHP! Glad we did this!

Me too, Loop! Except that now I’m all depressed about whitebark pines.

And I’ll be all depressed, too, if you forgot to bring a chocolate coconut bar again, SPHP. Please tell me that you remembered to bring one!

Fear not! Not going to fail you twice in a row, Looper! Got one in the pack. Shall we find a spot to split it?

More vehicles and people were arriving. Paulina Peak was sort of busy. A very short use trail ran from the NE end of the parking lot over to a small, exposed viewpoint without a railing where both lakes and more of the Big Obsidian Flow were in sight.

Hoping to find a quiet spot to split the chocolate coconut bar, Lupe and SPHP arrived at this viewpoint moments after a terrible tragedy struck a family with children. Oblivious to the danger, an angry young girl flung her stuffed animal in midst of a tantrum. In shock and horror, she then burst into tears, weeping bitterly after seeing it disappear over the cliff.

Devastated, the girl and her family quickly departed, before some other unforeseen evil could strike. Seeing SPHP splitting the chocolate coconut bar with Lupe, a much calmer girl asked SPHP if she could give Lupe a piece? Her mother was dubious, but let her do so. Both were surprised by the polite and dainty manner in which the Carolina Dog took it from the girl’s fingers, prior to making short work of it.

Mom was happy! The girl was happy! Even SPHP was happy. Lupe licked her chops.

Wow! SPHP, did you notice how happy they were just because I ate a piece of chocolate coconut bar?

Yup. The girl thought feeding you was fun.

Oh, it is fun, SPHP! I certainly enjoyed it! Got any more chocolate coconut bars? We could make money doing this! You provide chocolate coconut bars (at a decent profit, of course!) to anyone who wants to feed a Carolina Dog, and I’ll eat them. Why, we could get rich doing this!

And you could be the size of 3 normal Carolina Dogs, and die of chocolate coconut bar poisoning, too!

Along the N rim, heading over to the Big Obsidian Flow viewpoint. Photo looks NE.

**Central Pumice Cone (7,084 ft.)** (Center), **Paulina Lake** (L). **Big Obsidian Flow** and **East Lake** (R). Photo looks NNE.

**East Lake** (L) and **Big Obsidian Flow** (foreground). Photo looks NE.

SPHP’s earlier fears that Paulina Peak might be lost in a cloud of thick smoke from wildfires had been partially correct. Especially bad toward the horizons, smoke was visible in all directions, yet the air seemed quite a bit clearer locally. Lupe checked out the rest of the summit region.

A hazy plain beyond low forested hills was about all there was to see to the S or E, and trees hid the views to the W. Close to where the road came up, there was an outhouse, and a Paulina Peak Overlook sign.

Half an hour before sunset, a small crowd eagerly awaited the big event along the N rim of the lookout. Evidently, sunset from Paulina Peak was a big deal. Half a dozen people had fancy, expensive cameras with huge lenses and tripods. Best views locally were of Paulina and East Lakes plus the Big Obsidian Flow, but that wasn’t what they were here for.

A clear day would provided a terrific view of the Cascade Range. Off to the NW, Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft), South Sister (10,358 ft.), Middle Sister (10,047 ft.), and North Sister (10,085 ft.) were all lined up. And way off to the N, Mount Hood (11,239 ft.) stood barely detectable in the smoke on the edge of vision.

Unfortunately, drifting in from the W, the smoke seemed to be getting worse. As the sun sank toward the murk, Lupe visited various vantage points for scenic effect.

From **near the true summit** L to R on the L: **Mount Bachelor**, **South Sister**, **Middle Sister**, and **North Sister.** **Mount Hood** barely detectable (R). Photo looks NNW.

Down at the parking lot. **Paulina Lake** (R). Photo looks N.

**Mount Bachelor** (L), **South Sister** (Center). Photo looks NW.

I don’t know, Loop! Not a cloud in the sky, and smoky. Too bad, but I think everyone is waiting in vain tonight. Doubt there’s going to be much of a sunset at all. Want to head back while we’ve still got some light?

Height of the evening’s glory. **Mount Bachelor** (L) and **The Three Sisters** (Center & R). Photo looks NW.

Another big day tomorrow, SPHP? Like South Sister was?

Hope so, Loop! Depends on the smoke. Might just drive to the coast.

Well, I suppose we may as well head back then.

15 minutes before sunset, while the crowd still waited, Lupe took a final look at South Sister, where she’d been only yesterday. The Carolina Dog then started back down to Crater Rim Trail No. 57, where twilight faded among the ancient whitebark pines of Paulina Peak. (8:29 PM, 61ºF)

**Paulina Peak**, Columbia Plateau, Newberry Volcanic Monument, Oregon 8-27-21

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GPS Track by T J Kodras (8-16-21)

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