11:30 AM, start of USFS Road No. 203 off Rochford Road – What? Totally unexpected! A crew was doing some kind of maintenance work on USFS Road No. 203, the very road SPHP had chosen for today’s expedition in light of Cousin Dusty’s need for a relatively easy experience.
At the start of USFS Road No. 203 with unexpected road work ahead. Photo looks NW.
Fortunately, the maintenance work wasn’t a big deal. Merely a culvert being replaced. After waiting just a couple of minutes, the friendly two man crew waved Lupe and the pack by without further delay. No. 203 soon curved around a hillside, blotting out the sound of the machinery busily digging a trench for the new culvert.
Only two days ago, it had felt like winter up at frozen Sylvan Lake, all cold and gray with snow on the ground. Springtime today, though! Sunny and comfortably warm with a clear blue sky overhead.
Around the bend beyond the road work. Photo looks NE.
The plan was to escort Uncle Joe, and Cousins Dusty and Laddie up the scenic, gentle Gimlet Creek valley. It was a perfect choice, since Dusty was now nearly 16 years old. The objective, to the extent there was one, and provided Dusty could manage it, was to visit Gimlet Pond 2.5 miles up the valley.
Cousin Dusty has always enjoyed water, and soon availed herself of an opportunity to cool off in Gimlet Creek.
Dusty in Gimlet Creek.
No. 203 proceeded NNW up the valley with little variation in course. Elevation gain was slow, but steady.
Heading up the Gimlet Creek valley. Photo looks N.Lupe with Cousins Laddie (Center) and Dusty (R).Looking back down the valley. Photo looks S.
The valley eventually widened out. When a single track trail closer to the creek appeared, everyone abandoned the road for a while to march through a field.
The day was getting warmer. Dusty and Lupe started taking frequent dips in Gimlet Creek. Laddie drank a little water, but preferred not to get his fancy, long thick coat wet.
Abandoning the road to take the trail through the field. Photo looks N.Dusty helps herself to a drink. Photo looks N.Laddie, Lupe and Joe on the trail. Photo looks SSW.Lupe takes a turn in the creek while landlubber Laddie strolls by. Photo looks WSW.
Near the N end of the field, Gimlet Creek flowed right over USFS Road No. 203. The road climbed more steeply from here, soon passing a small rise on the L (W). Briefly leaving the road, everyone went up onto the rise, which provided a great view back down the valley.
Getting close to where Gimlet Creek flows over USFS Road No. 203. Photo looks N.Laddie and Dusty at the shallow ford. Photo looks S.Looking back down the valley from the rise. Photo looks S.
Although Dusty still seemed to be doing fine, Joe was beginning to think that maybe this was far enough. However, Lupe had explored this valley on at least a couple of different occasions. It had been years since she’d last been here, but SPHP was almost certain Gimlet Pond wasn’t all that much farther now.
In that case, Joe was fine with letting Dusty continue. Beyond the rise, now on the W side of the valley, the road flattened out entirely. Several deer had been seen in the big field, but many were now visible racing across the N end of the valley ahead, close to where Gimlet Pond should be. More and more deer kept appearing until nearly 100 of them must have dashed by.
Joe pointing toward deer in the distance. Photo looks NNW.
As expected, it didn’t take much longer to reach Gimlet Pond, yet not a deer was in sight by the time Lupe got there. The lovely pond was just as she remembered it. Cousin Dusty went wading almost right away.
Arriving at Gimlet Pond. Photo looks NW.Joe and Laddie on the bridge over the outlet. Photo looks NNW.Dusty wading in Gimlet Pond. Photo looks SW.
Everyone except Dusty crossed the bridge over the outlet to get a look at Gimlet Pond from along the N shore. Dusty merely waded through the pond. Loopster soon decided she might as well go wading, too. As usual, Laddie showed no interest in getting wet.
12:42 PM – About time to let Dusty rest for a while, so a break was taken on a small hill overlooking Gimlet Pond from the S. Looking down the Gimlet Creek valley, Black Elk Peak(7,231 ft.) was visible far to the SSE.
Sitting in the shade of the pines, Joe and SPHP had Kind bars and apples while the dogs shared a couple of chocolate coconut bars. Lupe also had some Taste of the Wild, which Cousin Dusty shared in, too.
Black Elk Peak (L of Center) on the far horizon. Photo looks SSE.Dusty, Laddie, and Joe relaxing on the hill. Photo looks NNE.Gimlet Pond from the hill. Photo looks NE.
Oh, it was great to be here at Gimlet Pond on a lovely spring day! Lupe and SPHP were happy that Cousin Dusty had made it in good shape.
Toward the end of the rest break, Uncle Joe took an interest in the field W of the hill. Looked like it might be a good place to look for signs of old Native American encampments, so the whole pack went down there to have a sniff around.
Searching for artifacts. Photo looks SW.
Joe found nothing in the field. Further investigation down by the creek yielded the same result, but it was fun to look.
Joe and Dusty down by the creek. Photo looks E.Wandering upstream. Photo looks WNW.
Well, soon time to head back. Happily, still another 2.5 miles of fun in the Black Hills along Gimlet Creek to go. Better savor every moment! Tomorrow, Joe, Andrea, Dusty and Laddie would return to Colorado.
About ready to head back. Photo looks E from just downstream of Gimlet Pond.Leaving the Gimlet Pond region on USFS Road No. 203. Photo looks S.
Cousin Dusty was a veteran of many Black Hills expeditions with Lupe. On the way back, it was sad to think that at nearly 16, this might be her last one. Dusty had done great! Clearly, she was still enjoying herself. Cousin Dusty always did love the Black Hills where she was free to roam without a leash, a rare treat in crowded Colorado.
Faithful Dusty following Joe while Laddie and Lupe lag behind. Photo looks SSE.
By the time it was all over and done with, Dusty had gone more than 5 miles. Sylvan Lake, the Custer State Park buffalo hunt, and now Gimlet Pond! Lupe and SPHP were so glad that Joe, Dusty, and Laddie had come to visit, and especially hoped that Cousin Dusty would make it back to the beautiful Black Hills again some day.
Gimlet Creek valley, not too far from the end, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-18-22
Day 21 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!
7:40 AM, 41ºF, Cascade Lakes Highway, Dutchman Flats – Luck of the Dingo, a miracle! A minor one, anyway. Twice during the wee hours, there’d been rain. Not much. Only light rain for 20 minutes the second time, and that was the big deluge. Then pre-dawn, Orion had been gleaming near the E horizon.
And now? Mount Bachelor(9.065 ft.) stood against a sky containing only a trace of the thick smoke that had completely hidden it when Lupe arrived yesterday evening.
Mount Bachelor. Photo looks SW.
Wooo-hooo, Loopster! We are so extremely lucky! Gonna be alright! Thar she blows!
Fantastic news, SPHP! No trip to the coast today after all. But with a name like “Bachelor”, that mountain’s got to be a dude, not a she.
Hah! Bachelor isn’t what I’m talking about, Loop. Look over there! That’s why we’re here!
9 miles NW, capped by a wispy lenticular cloud, a massive volcano was in sight. Hadn’t been visible at all yesterday evening, but there she was.
Wow! That’s where we’re going, SPHP?
Yup. You’re in for a real slog today, Looper! Nearly 4,900 feet of elevation gain in 6 miles from Devils Lake. Most definitely a she-mountain, too! That’s South Sister(10,358 ft.)!
South Sister (R) from Dutchman Flats. Photo looks NW.With help from the telephoto lens.
9:02 AM, 46ºF, Devils Lake trailhead – Surprisingly little activity, but lots of vehicles around. Over at the campground, people were stirring as Lupe set out on South Sister Climber Trail No. 36. Boardwalk bridges got her over a couple of streams in a flat region before reaching Cascade Lakes Highway.
Crossing the highway, the American Dingo began an incredible journey.
Start of South Sister Climber Trail No. 36.
Immediately N of the highway, the trail was flat as it ran along the W bank of a lovely stream. However, a steady climb N up a forested valley quickly commenced. The stream soon wandered farther E. Lupe went over to see it tumbling down mossy stones, and get a drink.
By the mossy stone stream.
Returning to the trail, the climb resumed. The stream soon disappeared entirely, whether up a side drainage or simply underground, SPHP never really knew. Little to see here except trees, but the trail was in excellent condition, no obstacles at all, and super easy to follow.
Heading up the valley. Photo looks N.
As the Carolina Dog continued higher, the valley began to narrow. Half way up, just beyond the narrowest point, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 leveled out, becoming sandy as Lupe entered a clearing where the valley widened out again.
In the narrows. A small clearing is just around the next bend (L). Photo looks N.
The flat clearing was a welcome respite, but the march higher resumed as soon as Lupe got beyond it. Trail No. 36 began winding up steeper slopes than before, switchbacks helping to limit the rate of climb.
Big rock formations eventually appeared off to the E. After getting fairly close to them, the trail turned NW. Looper had already gained a bunch of elevation. Encouragingly, it was beginning to look like she was about to climb out of the upper end of the valley.
Past the clearing, winding higher. Photo looks SSE.Near the rock formations. Photo looks E.Close to climbing out the N end of the valley? Photo looks N.
After reaching the NW side of the valley, the trail switchbacked NE. Soon it became clear that the American Dingo really was about to escape the valley! The trail turned N. From the top of a little rise, a magnificent sight – South Sister(10,358 ft.)!
Directly ahead, the trail sloped gently down to a junction.
Out of the valley, with South Sister in sight! Photo looks N.
At the junction, Phase 1 of Lupe’s journey to South Sister, the 1.5 mile long trek up the long valley, was complete. The route she needed to take from here was completely obvious, just keep heading N for South Sister. Trail No. 17.1 offered other possible choices, either NE down to Moraine Lake, or W for parts unknown.
At the junction with Trail No. 17.1. Lupe had come up from the L. Photo looks WSW.Signage at the junction.
Continuing N from the junction, Phase 2 of Lupe’s South Sister journey began. This was by far the easiest section of South Sister Climber Trail No. 36. A broad path wound through low hills of gritty volcanic soil that supported only scant vegetation other than scattered stands of pines. Elevation gain was minimal. In many places, the trail was nearly flat. The Carolina Dog even came to short downhill sections, although they didn’t amount to much.
As the pines became scarcer, the increasingly open views became more deserty. In her fur coat, Lupe got hot, and often wanted to enjoy a shady rest whenever the trail got close to the trees. It was all extremely scenic, with South Sister nearly always looming ahead. The jagged peaks of Broken Top(9,175ft.) were also often in view off to the NE.
Continuing N from the junction. Photo looks N.An early view of Broken Top. Photo looks NE.On a flat stretch. Photo looks NNE.South Sister ahead. Photo looks N.A bit closer. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Progress was fast and easy, with only the short water and rest breaks to cool off in the shade slowing things down. As Loopster rapidly closed the remaining gap to the base of the mountain, South Sister looked more and more daunting based on sheer size alone. At one point, the Carolina Dog passed another trail on the R that came up from Moraine Lake.
Continuing toward South Sister. Photo looks N.By the trail that came up from Moraine Lake. Photo looks E.Passing along the edge of a few small hills. South Sister (L of Center). Photo looks N.A gnarled tree. Photo looks NE.Looking back. Devils Hill(7,080 ft.) (L). Photo looks S.
For quite a long way, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 stayed near the E edge of the huge flat ridge Lupe was traveling N. Sometimes she enjoyed views down into the canyon to the E. From a few spots, it was possible to catch a glimpse of Moraine Lake. Hard to think about that, though, when South Sister was getting closer with every step. The mountain drew the eye like a magnet.
Getting closer. Photo looks N.South Sister (L of Center). Hodge Crest(10,039 ft.) (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.Summit region. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.Another glance over at Broken Top (Center). Photo looks ENE.
The trail eventually began drifting NW, away from the canyon which it was now essentially past. South Sister’s summit region vanished from view, hidden by the mountain’s lower slopes. Phase 3 was beginning, start of the ascent.
How much higher do we have to go, SPHP?
About 3,500 feet, Loop, over 2 miles.
Sounded like a lot. Only 1,400 feet gained so far? Felt like it had been a long march already.
The trail began climbing again. Slowly at first, but more steeply as Lupe went on.
Climbing again. Photo looks N.
For a while, trees were fairly numerous. No. 36 even wound through short stretches of forest. Higher up, trees were scarcer. The trail ran N some distance W of a rocky ridge capped by a line of cliffs. This ridge was considerably higher, but Lupe was gaining on it.
Below the cliffs (R) of the ridge to the E. Photo looks NE.
The ground was mostly gritty, loose soil. No doubt volcanic. Good-sized rocks were part of the mix, but the terrain wasn’t super rocky.
So far, Lupe had seen only a few people, a large group way back at the very start, and a couple near the upper end of the long valley that had camped at Moraine Lake last night. However, as the trail steepened, Lupe began meeting more and more people on their way down.
Those who had made it to the summit had been disappointed. The top of the mountain had been shrouded in fog. No views at all.
The sky over South Sister was a beautiful, deep blue now, though. Seemed like a perfect day!
Hah! Looks like the late Dingo is going to get the worm this time, Loop!
Worm! I’ll have you know, I’m not climbing this beast for worms, SPHP! This monster ought to merit several chocolate coconut bars.
Oh, my gosh, Looper! I forgot to bring any! I do have Taste of the Wild for you. Sorry, but that’s gonna be it.
No chocolate coconut bars? Didn’t seem right at all. Taste of the Wild was nutritious, but like cake minus icing. Chocolate coconut icing to be precise! Nothing to be done about it. A miffed Dingo trudged onward, trying to make the best of it. SPHP plodded along behind.
The mountain was getting steep. Looking back during SPHP’s breathers, Loop could see Devils Hill(7,080 ft.) and Mount Bachelor(9,065 ft.). She was also seeing evidence that this day might not be so perfect after all. Miles away, a wall of smoke or fog was now visible to the S and W.
Mount Bachelor (L), Devils Hill (R of Center) beyond Moraine Lake. The flat ridge that South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 runs along is at far R. Photo looks SSE.
A light breeze was blowing out of the SW. Not good. SPHP kept an eye on the situation. Trouble seemed to be approaching, but quite slowly.
The approaching bank of fog and/or smoke. Photo looks W.
C’mon, Looper! Let’s keep moving as much as possible. Afraid your Luck of the Dingo might run out on us.
Fine, SPHP, but I don’t think I’m the holdup here!
A line of trees stood along the upper rim of a really steep slope. Despite the urgency of some need for speed, SPHP only managed to plod along at a snail’s pace. Near the top, loose soil gave way to a series of small, solid rock ledges. Once up to where the trees were, a gray hill was visible off to the NE.
On the steep slope leading up to the line of trees. Photo looks N.
That hill was Nipple Point(8,600 ft.). The trail looped clear around the E side of it before turning NW.
Nipple Point (Center). Photo looks NE.Circling around Nipple Point (not shown). Photo looks E.On the back side, NE of Nipple Point (Center) now. Photo looks SW.
Beyond Nipple Point, the trail ascended a long slope of very loose gray scree. At the top of this climb, Lupe reached a saddle SW of a big hill. An awesome sight was ahead!
Still 1,500 feet higher, South Sister’s rust red dome towered beautifully above what remains of the Lewis Glacier, a turquoise meltwater pond nestled below it.
On the gray scree slope above Nipple Point. Photo looks NW.South Sister and the Lewis Glacier. Hodge Crest(10,039 ft.) far R. Photo looks N.
To the NW, quite a few hikers were visible coming down along the edge of a colorful ridge of pumice overlooking the glacier and turquoise tarn. Several more were relaxing right here at the saddle. Still more than 150 feet higher, Lewis Glacier Peak(9,017 ft.) was immediately NE.
South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 proceeds up the ridge beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.Hodge Crest (L) and Lewis Glacier Peak (R). Photo looks NNE.
A rest break was taken at the saddle. However, the American Dingo couldn’t linger long. The wall of smoke or fog approaching from the SW suddenly seemed much closer now. Clouds were increasingly starting to hang around the top of South Sister before sailing off to the NE. As soon as SPHP could summon the energy to do so, Lupe resumed her ascent.
Heading higher. Photo looks N.
Early on, Lupe passed a line of boulders strung out along the crest of the ridge. Beyond the boulders, she eventually worked high enough to gaze down on the Lewis Glacier slowly, inexorably, melting away in the sun.
The scenery was fantastic! Even the ground was fascinating. Loopster climbed through distinct zones of red, yellow, grey, and black volcanic soils. Meanwhile, although skies were often still blue over South Sister, the wall of smoke and fog was steadily closing in. A procession of hikers was coming down the mountain. SPHP wondered where they had all started from this morning?
Boulders along the ridge crest.Seeking shade. Broken Top (R) and Lewis Glacier Peak (far R). Photo looks ESE.Near the Lewis Glacier. South Sister (L), Hodge Crest (R). Photo looks N.Toe of the Lewis Glacier. Photo looks NE.Broken Top (far L), Lewis Glacier Peak (L), the saddle (beyond Lupe), Mount Bachelor (far R). Photo looks SE.Colorful soils along the edge. Photo looks N.
The weary trudge higher went on and on. Can’t stop! Not for more than a moment or two to gasp for air. The top of the mountain seemed to get closer only at a snail’s pace. People streamed by. Everyone was heading down. They were all in great spirits! These climbers had been at the top when the sky was blue and the views were incredible.
Whether or not Lupe could get up there in time to enjoy those views still hung in the balance.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Making progress as time runs out. Broken Top (far L), Lewis Glacier Peak (R), Mount Bachelor (far R). Photo looks SE.The approaching wall of smoke and fog. Photo looks SW.Still hope! Blue skies over South Sister. Photo looks N.
Angling NW, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 left the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier. Steep, although perhaps not quite as steep as before. Loopster met the last few stragglers coming down the mountain. At last, it finally started to look like the top couldn’t be much farther!
Getting there! Photo looks NNW.
Heh. Farther than it looked. Lupe kept climbing. She seemed to be only a few hundred feet from the top, yet more mountain kept appearing.
Doomed! The wall of fog arrived, and the world disappeared.
Too late! Photo looks SE.
2:55 PM, 52ºF, South Sister(10,358 ft.), S rim – Borne on a breeze now 10 mph out of the SW, fog streamed by as the rate of climb diminished. Near the end, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 turned NNE. Fortunately, the fog was intermittent. As Lupe crossed a plain of red cinders, a small ridge of wild-looking rock was ahead. Reaching it half an hour after the fog first hit, the American Dingo passed a small cairn.
Two people remained here, standing in a gray gloom along the edge of an enchanting, vaguely threatening, prehistoric scene revealed partially and only momentarily during sudden breaks in the cloud. They waved, but said nothing. SPHP waved back, then went with Lupe off to the W to take shelter from the rising wind among rocks of the volcanic ridge.
The ridge was higher toward the NW. Between here and there, a cool fog streamed almost constantly out of the SW through a sizable gap. Despite the fog, Lupe could usually see at least part of an enormous crater before her. A glacier within sloped down from the W, meltwater trickling from its toe gathering in small pools below.
Every now and then, fog quit coming through the gap. Then suddenly, the Carolina Dog would be in brilliant sunshine as the crater began to clear. Patches of blue sky, and much more of the crater were revealed. Occasionally, the true summit could be seen almost directly opposite Lupe’s position way over along the NE rim.
Along the S rim of the South Sister crater. Photo looks NE.Upper reaches of the glacier along the W rim. Photo looks NNW.Ice near meltwater pools.
Most of the time, though, fog hid everything that wasn’t close. For nearly an hour, Lupe spent most of her time curled up on SPHP’s lap, watching fog stream through the gap. South Sister’s crater felt primeval, wild and cold, like a hidden frozen piece of the world’s ancient dangerous past.
A few latecomers arrived shortly after Lupe did. None stayed long, or ventured over toward the true summit, although one couple vanished into the fog off to the E for a little while. Most stayed only a few minutes before turning around and heading back down. One woman reacted with shock and dismay. The entire crater used to be filled with snow and ice! Even though Lupe and SPHP were amazed, what remained was evidently pitiful in comparison to what had once been.
Actually, I’m shocked, too, Loop. Never expected this!
Why not, SPHP? South Sister is a volcano! You said so yourself. What were you expecting?
Yeah, I know. Just never really thought about it, Loopster. Since South Sister looks like a big red dome from a distance, I assumed the whole thing would be like that. A gentle stroll to a vast, featureless, rounded summit.
Glad it isn’t, SPHP! A real volcanic crater with a glacier! Way better!
If anything, the weather seemed to be deteriorating. The wind blew harder, more and more fog streamed by. Fewer, shorter, brief episodes of sunshine. SPHP began to worry. South Sister was losing the battle with the fog. Finally, though, a break came. Suddenly, almost the entire crater cleared. Another rare moment when South Sister’s true summit was in view again!
C’mon, Loop! Now’s our chance!
Partially revived by the long rest, Loopster leapt to her paws and began following a well-worn use trail counter-clockwise around the crater.
Heading for South Sister’s true summit (Center). Photo looks NNE.
Along the E rim, conditions varied wildly. A gentle breeze beneath blue skies one moment, 30 seconds later, a cold, gray gale. Pausing to brace against the wind, Lupe surged forward whenever it let up.
Along the lower E end of the crater. Photo looks NW.Fog moving in again. Photo looks NNE.Approaching the NE rim beneath temporarily blue skies. Photo looks NNW.South Sister crater glacier. Photo looks W.
Near the true summit, the ridgeline was dominated by wild, jagged rock. Well below the top, Lupe picked her way through a geological jumble utilizing a maze of use trails. Once through the worst of it, she climbed to a bench only slightly below the highest rocks, discovering a survey benchmark with an arrow.
Near the true summit. Survey benchmark (lower L). Photo looks WNW.South Sister survey benchmark.
The true summit was a short, narrow ridge with steep drops along both sides. A knob at the S end was the absolute high point. Lupe couldn’t quite get to it, and wouldn’t have had room enough to sit up there, even if she could have reached it, but she did scramble up onto rocks only marginally lower 10 feet away.
4:07 PM, 38ºF, South Sister, true summit – Fog streamed past. Now 20 mph, the wind was cold. Alone in a gray world, way up at the top of mighty South Sister, Lupe stood like a champion, waiting for the next break that SPHP hoped and promised would soon arrive.
At the summit. Photo looks SE.
It did. Not totally, or for long, but a partially blue sky did reappear. SPHP quickly took the shot. Close enough for Dingo work!
Moment of glory on South Sister. Photo looks SE.
Descending, Lupe lingered near the true summit only 5 or 10 minutes longer. Conditions weren’t all that pleasant, and fog soon returned.
Final moments in the true summit region.
Lupe was halfway back to the S rim when the situation suddenly took a turn for the worse. Dense fog swept in on a frigid 30 mph gale. Even the trail vanished from view. Whiteout! Must stop.
This is terrible, SPHP! We’ve over-stayed our welcome! Keep going!
Can’t! Can’t see a thing! Stay close, Loop, or you’ll get lost!
Was a storm moving in? The ferocity of the attack was numbing. Lupe huddled at SPHP’s feet. Hands were freezing. Seemed interminable, but couldn’t have been more than a few minutes. The worst was over. Still in the fog, but suddenly the trail reappeared.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Looking back toward the E.Along the S rim again. Photo looks W.
4:33 PM, South Sister, S rim – An hour and 38 minutes after arriving, Lupe stood again by the little cairn marking where South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 reached the S rim. Something had changed when that ferocious blast went through. The air was colder. No more glimpses of blue sky, or even of South Sister’s crater. Lupe would never see it again.
A long way back. Definitely time to go. A last glance N into the fog where the crater should have been, and Loop started down.
By the small cairn (R) where Climber Trail No. 36 reaches the S rim. Photo looks SSW.
Progress was great! So much easier going down! Lupe trotted along a path of loose, red cinder in an otherwise gray world. Losing hundreds of feet of elevation, she was already getting close to where the trail reached the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier before she escaped the cloud and could see again.
The Lewis Glacier (R), appears as Lupe descends from the cloud. Photo looks SSE.
Exhausted, yet the evening return was amazing and fun! South Sister’s summit never did escape the cloud again, but beauty was all around. Incredibly, Lupe had it all to herself, seeing no one at all. The evening gloam was well advanced by the time Carolina Dog reached the deserted trailhead near Devils Lake. (8:09 PM, 57ºF)
Alright, SPHP! We did it! Can please I have a chocolate coconut bar now?
11:48 AM, 32ºF, Sylvan Lake Picnic Area – Oh, the news was wonderful! Yesterday evening Cousins Dusty, Laddie, and Uncle Joe had arrived for a visit. Lupe was thrilled! The enthusiastic American Dingo knew what that meant – good times on joint expeditions in the Black Hills! The real question had been where to go? Cousin Dusty would be turning sweet 16 in less than 2 months, and wasn’t up to anything long or strenuous.
This morning, SPHP had suggested the loop trail around Sylvan Lake, a choice agreeable to all, but hadn’t taken the lake’s 6,145 foot elevation fully into account. Mid-April, but there was ice on the lake, snow on the ground, and a chill in the air as Lupe and her cousins set out from the picnic area for a counter-clockwise tour around the lake. It was so cold out that only a couple of Canadians were hardy enough to be hanging out down by the beach.
Setting out from the picnic area. Photo looks NW.Sylvan Lake from near the beach along the N shore. Photo looks SW.Canadian geese.
Beyond the beach, the trail wound NW past massive granite formations and improbable spires. Going over a bit of a rise, another part of Sylvan Lake came into view. Cousin Dusty was doing great! She even led the way, happy to be back in the Black Hills again.
Among the granite formations. Photo looks N.Approaching the N end of Sylvan Lake. Cousin Dusty (R) in the lead. Photo looks NW.
Going around a bay, the trail climbed onto rock formations overlooking Sylvan Lake. On this cold, overcast morning, the scene was mostly gray and white. Pines added a green too subdued to break a wintery mood.
The N bay from up on the rocks. Photo looks SE.
Joe, Dusty, and Laddie got a head start as the trail turned SW descending into Sunday Gulch. Protected from the sun by towering rock formations, there was even more snow down here. Water seeped from a big crack in the granite.
Joe and Laddie start down into Sunday Gulch. Photo looks SW.A snowy descent. Photo looks SW.Laddie, Joe, and Dusty in Sunday Gulch.
Once down in Sunday Gulch, it was only a short distance to a junction with Sunday Gulch Trail No. 6 near the Sylvan Lake dam. The cloud cover thinned, and the sky brightened. Suddenly, winter seemed to be losing its grip. A hint of spring was in the air.
Joe, Laddie, and Lupe below the dam. Photo looks SE.
Sunday Gulch Trail No. 6 is scenic, but steep. Cousin Dusty wasn’t going to be able to take on a side excursion like that. In fact, she had a bit of a problem with the next section of the Sylvan Lake trail. Beyond the dam, the trail turned S going up a series of snowy steps that led into a narrow passage between vertical rock walls.
The passage was a sheet of ice! A minor rise near the end was so slick that Dusty could scarcely get up it. Repeatedly losing traction, she kept sliding back. Joe had to brace himself between the rock walls to try to give her a helping paw.
Joe, Dusty, and Laddie head up the steps. Photo looks S.Joe trying to help Dusty up the super slick ice.
After a couple of comical attempts, Dusty got the extra help she needed. Emerging from the narrow passage at lake level near the dam, the rest of the path around the lake was a cinch. Flat as a pancake, the trail ran right along the SW shore nearly all the way to the S end of the lake.
Near the dam (unseen off to the L) after successfully negotiating the icy passage. Photo looks NE.Along the SW shore. Photo looks SE.Looking NW back toward the dam (L beyond Joe).
Didn’t take long at all to get there.
Laddie, Joe, and Dusty at the S end of Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNW.Loopster basking in weak sunshine.The massive granite formation near the dam. Photo looks NW.
The scenic jaunt around Sylvan Lake was almost complete. Not much farther back to the picnic area now. Cousin Dusty seemed perplexed. Other than the one icy spot that everyone had had a little trouble with, she was doing fine. The adventure couldn’t be over already, could it?
At 15 years, 10 months, Cousin Dusty ready for more Black Hills action!
Joe proposed extending the trek with a stroll along Needles Highway No. 87, which remained closed to vehicles for the season. After 0.33 mile, a shortcut was taken up to the high point of Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 between the trailhead and the picnic area back at Sylvan Lake.
Heading up to Trail No. 4 after leaving the Needles Highway. Photo looks SW.
A log served as a bench during a rest break. The dogs shared a chocolate coconut bar, while Joe and SPHP munched on apples and Kind bars. The party broke up after Laddie barked at hikers on the trail.
The return to the Sylvan Lake picnic area on Little Devils Trail No. 4 was quick and easy. Downhill all the way!
On Little Devils Trail No. 4, about to head back to the Sylvan Lake picnic area.
1:45 PM – When everyone got back to the RAV4, there was still plenty of time to do something more today, but that was up to Uncle Joe and his assessment of how Cousin Dusty was faring.
Dusty appeared to be fine. SPHP suggested Custer State Park’s wildlife loop. Dusty might enjoy exploring the rolling grasslands. Would take a while to drive there, with a good chance of seeing buffalo somewhere along the way.
A buffalo hunt, whether from the RAV4 or out on the prairie, sounded like a great idea! Lupe was clearly in favor, and no one else seemed to have any objections.
2:36 PM – Buffalo had already been seen by the time Uncle Joe parked at a curve along CSP Road No. 2 about 0.33 mile N of Racetrack Butte. Lupe had given her cousins live demonstrations of how to bark ferociously at bison from the safety of the RAV4. Laddie was interested, but hadn’t quite picked up on it yet.
Dusty was ready for another outing, if it wasn’t a long one. The plan was to climb a nearby flat-topped ridge hoping to spot more buffalo from a safe distance.
Setting off on the Custer State Park buffalo hunt! Photo looks SW.
Upon reaching the top of the ridge, the buffalo hunt became an instant success. Two buffalo were relaxing on the prairie up here. Not exactly a thundering herd, but they were impressive. Upon seeing an American Dingo, both got up to keep an eye on Lupe, but didn’t really do anything except stand there.
I’m thinking buffalo burgers! How about you, SPHP? …. I’m thinking you’re close enough, Loop. Stay here!
Both buffalo soon decided they might as well eat grass. Sensible enough, but not terribly exciting. A lone pine stood near the SE end of the ridge. Ought to be a great view of Racetrack Butte (4,320 ft.) and quite a bit of surrounding territory from over there. Might as well check it out.
Dusty, Laddie, and Joe up on the ridge. Racetrack Butte (L). Photo looks SSE.
The hunch paid off! From the end of the ridge there was a terrific view of a whole herd of buffalo in the valley next to Racetrack Butte.
Gazing down on the buffalo herd. Racetrack Butte (L). Photo looks SE.
This was a fabulous vantage point! Many brand new calves were among the herd. Joe, Dusty, Laddie, and SPHP all watched in fascination.
Buffalo and their calves with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe was fascinated, too, but the excitement of seeing so many buffalo all at once quickly became almost unbearable. The Carolina Dog began whining so loudly that the bison must have heard her. All of a sudden, several began ambling off to the E. Before long, they were running.
None of the buffalo wanted to be left behind. Evidently convinced utter disaster threatened, the whole herd began stampeding away. This did nothing to calm Lupe down. Whining more than ever, the frustrated American Dingo watched the bison vanish across the prairie.
The buffalo race away past Racetrack Butte (R). Photo looks ESE.
Within minutes, the show was over. The buffalo had provided quite a spectacle!
Joe, Laddie, and Dusty heading back.to the RAV4.
That wasn’t the end of all the excitement, though! Once back in the RAV4, part of the same buffalo herd that had fled the Carolina Dog’s mere whining when she was way up on the ridge far from them, had stopped right on CSP Road No. 2, blocking the road. Now that Lupe was barking hysterically right next to them from the RAV4, most barely glanced up.
Shut it, pesky Dingo! Can’t you see we’re grazing here?Yeah, really not all that concerned.
Joe eventually had to ease the RAV4 slowly through the herd to get them to move enough to get by. It was a good thing he got through, or Lupe would have busted a gut. The whole experience left her foaming at the mouth, chest heaving. Laddie had been so impressed that even he’d joined in for a moment.
That still wasn’t the end, though. Lupe had plenty more chances to bark like a nutcase. Wildlife was everywhere! On the way out of Custer State Park, Loop saw more buffalo, a huge herd of elk, lots of mountain sheep, marmots, wild turkeys, and turkey vultures. Uncle Joe was amazed at the quantity and variety of wildlife around, not to mention just about deaf, by the time the Custer State Park adventure was over.
Mountain sheep.Being ignored by mountain sheep.
The reprieve of silence didn’t last long. Outside the park, this was cattle country. Cows and horses! Lupe had to give them all what for.
So glad Uncle Joe, and cousins Dusty and Laddie were here! What a great day!
Near Racetrack Butte, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-16-22
