Canada – Page 5 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Hyland, Babine Mountains, British Columbia, Canada – Part 1: The McCabe Trail from Driftwood Canyon to Summit Pass (8-4-22)

Day 6 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

Morning, Driftwood Canyon Provincial Park – The hopeful promise of clearing skies yesterday evening had been dashed by raindrops during the wee hours. Lupe woke to a soft gray fog in the treetops.

Picnic ground at **Driftwood Canyon Provincial Park** near Smithers.

Not looking good for mountain climbing today, is it, SPHP?

Certainly isn’t, Loop, but maybe we should give it a chance? We could kill some time taking the bridge over Driftwood Creek. Supposed to be some famous fossil beds at the end of a short trail over there. Want to do that?

The Carolina Dog wasn’t so sure that she did, hesitating at the metal grate bridge before following SPHP across.

Several plaques were along the trail, which led through a dark forest. At the end, a small clearing provided a view of a steep hillside. Turned out the fossil beds were way up near the top. Signs warned against climbing the hillside to see them, although the scarred slope made it clear that lots of people did.

No fossils to look at, not even any squirrels in this forest, SPHP. I’m not overly impressed.

Nice enough stroll, but kind of a bust, isn’t it, Loop? Back to the RAV4?

Fine with me, SPHP, but then what?

Let’s head into Smithers and find out what the forecast is, Looper. If it’s going to stay all cloudy and drippy like this, we might as well keep driving. Still a long way to Alaska, you know.

Can’t you check the forecast on your fancy new iPhone, SPHP? I thought that was supposed to be one of the grand new capabilities it offered us?

I could, but we don’t seem to have service in Canada, Loop.

Magnificent! No service in Canada, where we always like to go! How did you manage that, SPHP?

Chalk it up to my usual brilliance, Loopster. C’mon, let’s get out of here!

The Smithers Visitor Center had free wi-fi. Took SPHP a while to figure out how to even use wi-fi, but a weather forecast eventually did pop up on the iPhone’s screen.

Better than I thought, Loopster! Cloudy, high of 55ºF, with a 30% chance of showers today, then sunny with highs in the 70’s ºF for the next 4 days.

Sounds beautiful starting tomorrow then. We should stick around, SPHP! What can we do in Smithers today?

Play tourist, I suppose. Or you know what, Loop? We could go on our first ever backpacking trip in Canada! Take the McCabe Trail, and set up base camp near Mount Hyland (7,477 ft.) in the Babine Mountains. Should have a sunny day for climbing Mount Hyland tomorrow!

That sounds awesome, SPHP! Let’s do it!

1:14 PM, 52ºF – Mount Hyland meant a drive back to Driftwood Road again, this time all the way to the trailhead at the very end. Quite a few vehicles were present, but no one was around. SPHP had the pack ready, and the American Dingo was about to set off on the Silver King Trail, a wide, smooth path.

About to set out on the **Silver King Trail**. Photo looks N.

Hmm. Sign says 1.3 km to where the McCabe Trail branches off, Looper.

This looks super easy, SPHP! Like a stroll through the park.

Indeed it was! Climbing gradually, the Silver King Trail was apparently an abandoned road, at least here at the start. Driftwood Creek could be heard somewhere off to the W (L) in the forest, and soon flowed close to the trail, although still seldom seen due to trees and tall vegetation. The big, clear-running stream was very scenic when Lupe could manage to get a glimpse of it, flowing swiftly among mossy boulders.

After a short stretch flowing near the trail, Driftwood Creek veered back off into the forest. The stream did not appear again, although it could still be heard not too far away. Before long, Lupe reached the junction where the McCabe Trail took off to the NE (R).

Silver King Trail (L), **McCabe trail** (R).

Signage at the start of the McCabe Trail.

What does this sign say, SPHP?

8.5 km to Summit Pass, Looper. Not bad at all! A mere 9.8 km total from the trailhead.

The McCabe Trail began as a smaller road, but quickly climbing 60 feet, it then leveled out as an excellent single track traversing the steep lower N slopes of Harvey Mountain (6,083 ft.). Progress was rapid as the trail ran E through an impressively dense forest.

For quite a long way, there were no views other than the dim forest. The air was cool, moist, and heavy. Other than the sound of Driftwood Creek somewhere far below, silence reigned. Sudden movement among the thick moss and abundant undergrowth next to the trail revealed a toad.

At a small opening along the **McCabe Trail**. Photo looks E.

On and on! The McCabe Trail climbed gradually, still interspersed with flat sections. Although Lupe passed damp spots, no creeks ran down the steep N slopes of Mount Harvey. The dank, quiet atmosphere produced a sensation of extreme remoteness.

This is awesome, SPHP! Can’t wait to see where this leads to!

The trail eventually crossed a rock slide that created an opening where first views of the heavily forested Driftwood Creek Canyon appeared. All the mountaintops were in the clouds, but as Loopster continued on, she came to more openings. The cloud cover was slowly lifting, a mountain strip-tease revealing what was out there.

Looking out over the **Driftwood Creek Canyon**.

The McCabe Trail was now climbing steadily. Lupe came to some fairly long stretches where a lack of trees granted what would have been great views of the canyon on a sunnier day, but only SPHP could see them. An explosion of thick plant growth 4 or 5 feet high in these areas had the Carolina Dog traveling through an endless green tunnel.

Lupe was glad when small streams finally did begin to appear, getting a drink from each one. Two were large enough to have eroded out several feet of the trail, but were no real hindrance. A bigger stream had a nice wooden pawbridge.

On the pawbridge over the largest stream.

After crossing the pawbridge, the McCabe Trail angled away from the steep slopes overlooking the Driftwood Creek Canyon. A long, two-plank boardwalk appeared leading through a wet region. Near the upper end of the boardwalk, Lupe passed a sign for the undeveloped Blix Route, which went S to the Lyon Creek Trail.

On the narrow boardwalk through the wet region.

Upon reaching drier terrain, the boardwalk ended. The McCabe Trail continued climbing at a moderate pace through the forest. Now beyond the N slopes of Harvey Mountain, Lupe started getting glimpses of the N end of Pyramid Mountain (6,273 ft.) ahead.

Approaching the **N end of Pyramid Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Soon the forest was thinning rapidly. Lupe began coming to lush glades full of brilliant wildflowers.

Entering the wildflower zone near the **N end of Pyramid Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Among orange and crimson Indian Paintbrush.

The trail flattened out as it turned N away from **Pyramid Mountain** (L). Photo looks SW.

The wildflower zone didn’t last long. Turning E, after climbing only a bit higher, the McCabe Trail flattened out once again in a region of scattered conifers and low tundra vegetation. For the first time, a pass was visible off to the E beneath thick clouds.

That’s got to be it, SPHP! Summit Pass! That’s where we’re going, right?

**Summit Pass** (R of Center) from the flat region N of Pyramid Mountain. Photo looks E.

Yes, I do believe you’re right, Loopster. Really isn’t that much higher than where we are already. What, 2 miles away? No more than that.

After crossing the flat region, the trail turned NE, descending rapidly back into the forest. Switchbacking SE, the trail had leveled out after turning E again, when signs indicated the presence of a campground down a spur to the N.

We’ve got time, let’s check out the campground, Loop!

Back in the forest at the junction with the N spur to the campground. Photo looks ESE.

The campground was a simple affair. The spur trail led down to a large, relatively flat clearing. Crossing it, Lupe discovered two stone fire rings with a log to sit on near each one. Off to the E, a stream wound mostly unseen through a bushy wetland. No one was here at the moment.

At the campground clearing. Photo looks NW.

Near one of the 2 stone fire rings. Photo looks SE.

Nice enough place to camp, SPHP. Certainly a wilderness experience, but it feels like we’re down in a hole. Let’s keep going!

Intend to, Loop. Just wanted to see what was here while we were nearby.

Returning to the McCabe Trail, the American Dingo continued E. The trail skirted the S side of the bushy wetlands, and led to a bridge over the stream flowing into them. Back to the NNW, the sky was brightening. Mount Elmsted (7,244 ft.), and even part of The Galleon (7,844 ft.), was now in view.

**Mount Elmsted** (Center) from the SE end of the wetlands. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Elmsted** (L), snowy upper regions of **The Galleon** (Center). The campground is beyond the first stand of trees on the L. Photo looks NNW.

Passing through another stretch of forest, the McCabe trail climbed again. The trees were soon thinning rapidly. As Lupe broke out of the forest, a small lake was visible to the S, and blue skies were overhead. The day had been on the cool side, but now began to heat up. This next section of trail was the steepest of the entire journey.

Heading higher! About as steep as it got. Photo looks E.

Eh! Still only a moderately paced climb, although SPHP did pause to gasp for breath fairly often, because the pack was starting to feel heavy by now. The trail leveled out again for a little way, before resuming its ascent. Suddenly Lupe was passing the last stunted trees, the McCabe Trail still heading E toward open tundra.

To the NE, two great arms of a mountain cradled a vast bowl between them. A waterfall roared in the distance, cascading from the lower end.

The **McCabe Trail** nearly levels out for a little way again. Photo looks SE.

Loop, look! That’s Mount Hyland (7,477 ft.)! Tomorrow we’ll explore that huge valley between those massive ridges!

Lupe stuck with the McCabe Trail a little farther, but the Carolina Dog was so excited she soon took off streaking across the tundra. This was exactly the sort of alpine territory she loved most! Marmots whistled warnings in all directions as Looper sniffed and ran over hill and dale.

5:40 PM, base camp S of Mount Hyland – SPHP had the tiny house set up on a ridge a few hundred feet NW of the McCabe Trail. Lupe rested on the tundra nearby, watching a huge gray cloud envelop Mount Hyland.

Relaxing by the tiny house. Photo looks N.

What a spectacular setting, aye, Looper? Hope these clouds are actually gone by tomorrow morning, though!

This is fabulous, SPHP! Another Dingo Paradise! Loving it!

Cooling off again as these clouds roll in, but there’s still some blue sky to the E. We’ve got a few hours of daylight left, Loop. Want to visit Summit Pass, just to say we’ve been there?

How much farther is it, SPHP?

Oh, 0.5 km or so, maybe a little more. Won’t take long. Not much of a climb from here, and lots of wonderful tundra along the way!

Energized by the mountain air and vast open terrain, Lupe had a blast! SPHP stuck to the McCabe Trail, while the American Dingo roamed at will. The trail passed several small tarns. At intervals, wooden posts marked the route, although there was never any doubt.

About to set out for **Summit Pass** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

Glancing back at Lupe’s tiny house (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Closing in on **Summit Pass** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

5:55 PM – At Summit Pass, a post marked a 3-way junction. This was the end and high point of the McCabe Trail. From here, the Little Joe Creek Trail continued E, and the Lyon Creek Trail headed SW.

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve explored the entire McCabe Trail today!

It’s a great trail, SPHP! Love where it got us to. Wasn’t all that hard to get here, either.

Mount Hyland will be more of a challenge, I’m sure! Well, I suppose we ought to head back to the tiny house, sweet puppy. Have a bite to eat, then hit the hay. Big day tomorrow! Glad we got to enjoy this nice evening romp to Summit Pass, though.

Lupe was glad, too.

**Summit Pass**, end of the McCabe Trail, Babine Mountains, British Columbia, 8-4-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Babine Mountains Provincial Park Map

Mount Hyland, Babine Mountains, British Columbia, Canada – Part 2: Summit Pass to the Summit! (8-5-22)

Harvey Mountain, Babine Mountains Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (9-9-17)

The Little Onion, Astlais Mountain, & The Big Onion, Babine Mountains, British Columbia, Canada (8-8-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Oh, Canada! – The Long Road North: To The Canadian Rockies & Beyond! (7-30-22 thru 8-3-22)

Days 1-5 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-30-22, 2:30 PM, 92ºF, home – Hours of preparations and excitement had led to this! Resting high on her pink blanket covering a pile of supplies and padding, Lupe smiled broadly in happy anticipation of what was next. The American Dingo was about to set off on her 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation, and this wasn’t just any old Dingo Vacation, oh no!

Are we really going to Canada and Alaska, SPHP? It’s been 3 years! I was afraid we might not ever see them again!

SPHP tried to sound convincingly cheerful.

Absolutely, sweet puppy! At least, if Canada will actually let us cross the border. Think I’ve got everything all lined up. We’ll just have to see how it goes. Should be fine, Canada is officially open again!

Before turning the key, SPHP looked over at Lupe. She was so beautiful, and so happy! This late July afternoon truly was a rare and wonderful occasion, only the 5th time the Carolina Dog had ever set off for Alaska!

Epic! Yet also bittersweet. SPHP was filled with grief and remorse. The left side of Lupe’s face had an ugly wound on it. Brand new. And it was all SPHP’s fault on this otherwise joyful day.

Loopster ready to set out for Canada & Alaska for the first time in 3 years!

Happened just yesterday. At some point in the last month or so Lupe must have rolled in something, because she’d had a black, sticky, tar-like substance clinging to a small clump of fur on her face for the last several weeks. When it wouldn’t wash off, wanting Loop to look her finest for her next big Dingo Vacation, SPHP had gotten out a scissors to cut away that little clump of gooey fur.

The tar was tougher, and provided more resistance than expected, but a few seconds of cutting with the scissors had finally done the trick. The tar came off, but when it did, SPHP was instantly shocked and horrified.

Oh, no! Oh my gosh, Lupe! What have I done? I’ve cut your beautiful face wide open! You didn’t flinch, or bark, or shy away from me. You should have bit me! Instead you just looked trustingly into my eyes and let me do this terrible, painful thing to you. I’m so sorry! How could I have been so careless and such an idiot? We’re going to the puppy doctor!

At the emergency clinic, the puppy doctor cut away a loose flap of skin with beautiful fur still clinging to it that was going to die anyway, fully exposing the hideous wound. The wound wasn’t deep, just a fleshy spot the size of a nickel seeping a little blood. Staples or stitches to close the gap weren’t required, but Lupe’s fur wasn’t likely to ever grow back. She would always have a scar.

Lupe went home with an anti-biotic cream and pain pills.

SPHP was guilty, guilty, guilty, but there was nothing more to be done.

Oh, Lupe! We’re going to have so many grand adventures in Canada and Alaska on this Dingo Vacation! Going to be just like old times! You ready?

I can hardly wait, SPHP!

SPHP turned the key, and backed the RAV4 out of the driveway. After 3 long years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way!

7-31-22, 7:18 AM, 52ºF Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Exactly 3 weeks ago, on the last day of her prior Dingo Vacation to Wyoming, Lupe had been by here on an evening so cold and windy that SPHP had chickened out and driven her straight home. The Carolina Dog was back, though! From the Bald Mountain campground off Hwy 14A, Loop trotted toward the familiar open slopes of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).

Setting out for **Bald Mountain** (L). Photo looks SE.

Are we going to fix the names, SPHP?

We are! Hard to believe, but it’s been 4 years since we’ve been up on Bald Mountain, Loopster. A little maintenance is likely in order.

Make that quite a bit of maintenance. The names were still there, but in poor condition when Lupe found them not too far from the NW end of the vast summit region. The American Dingo had plenty of time to sniff about while SPHP made extensive repairs.

Loopster by her reconstituted name on **Bald Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Once the names were back in order, Lupe naturally completed the easy stroll to the true summit. Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) and it’s giant FAA golf ball were in sight several miles back to the NW, but all the more distant views were hazy.

**Medicine Mountain** (L of Center) from **Bald Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks NW.

The entire American West fills up with smoke every summer, doesn’t it Looper? Didn’t use to be that way.

Oh, but aren’t we the lucky ones, SPHP? Bet we won’t have to worry about smoke once we get far enough N into Canada!

Sure hope you’re right, Loop, and suspect you are, but you never know. Remember how smoky even Alaska was in 2019?

5:01 PM, 81ºF, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Bald Mountain had been a great morning romp! Most of the rest of the day had been a long, hot drive from Wyoming on into Montana. So many cows and horses to bark at! It had been a wonderful, if shrill time. Late afternoon now, but Lupe had made it here early enough to honor a long-standing tradition.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)! We really, truly are going to Canada, aren’t we, SPHP? We always come here first!

Almost always, Loop. We didn’t the first time in 2013, but ever since then, yeah. The Little Belt Mountains are a nice, cool spot to spend a night.

We always climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) when we do come here, SPHP. So which will it be? Any preference?

Yes, but we really don’t have to choose between them. Should have time to visit both! Whad’ya say we climb Kings Hill first?

**Kings Hill true summit**. Photo looks S.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from **Kings Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

**Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower**. Photo looks ENE.

**Big Baldy Mountain** (Center) from **Porphyry Peak**. Photo looks NNE.

8-1-22, 12:05 PM, I-15 at Port of Coutts, Montana/Canada border – Only 2 Canadian customs lanes were open. The RAV4 was 6th in line.

Moment of truth coming up, Loopster! Hope they don’t make us wait. Told them on Arrive-CAN that we wouldn’t be here until 3:00 PM.

Waiting won’t be so bad, SPHP, provided Canada ultimately lets us in. You had to specify the exact hour of arrival?

Yeah. Knew we’d be here by noon, but decided to give ourselves some slack just in case. Don’t know what we’ll do if Canada says no, and just sends us away. We’ll have to plan an entirely different Dingo Vacation, pronto.

**Canadian customs**, Port of Coutts opposite Sweetgrass, Montana.

For 10 minutes the line seemed stuck. No movement. Then suddenly whatever had been the hold-up was over. Soon SPHP was handing a US passport to the Canadian customs agent. 2 minutes later, the RAV4 was picking up speed, heading N!

Whoo-hoo! We’re in, Loop! You’re back in, Canada! On to Lethbridge!

That was easy, SPHP! Same old questions they always ask you.

Yup! Not a word about Covid-19. All that hassle and worry over nothing.

Our reputation as world class anti-social distancers must have preceded us, SPHP.

Oh, yes! I’m sure that’s it, Looper. Anyway, I’m glad it went the way it did. Smooth sailing now!

So, what’s next, SPHP? Where are we going first?

Mostly just driving again today, Loopster. Been so long since we’ve been to Canada and Alaska that I want to make tracks N as fast as we can the next few days. That doesn’t mean we can’t take the scenic route, though. How about something old and something new this afternoon?

You’re being coy, SPHP, but OK, surprise me!

Hwy 40 over Highwood Pass was the scenic route. Kananaskis Country! Peter Lougheed Provincial Park! The American Dingo hadn’t been to beautiful Upper Kananaskis Lake since 2014, but saw it again today.

**Storm Mountain (10,153 ft.)** (Center) from Hwy 40 on the way to Highwood Pass. Photo looks NNE.

**Gap Mountain (8,661 ft.)** (L) from **Highwood Pass**. Photo looks NW.

Gorgeous **Upper Kananaskis Lake**. Photo looks NW.

After a pleasant half hour at Upper Kananaskis Lake, the something new was a trip along washboardy Smith-Dorrien Road, the purpose being to see the Spray Lakes Reservoir for the first time ever. An odd trail from a picnic ground led a short distance down through a forest to a small cliff overlooking the lake. A better lakeshore viewpoint appeared only a few miles farther N along the road.

**Spray Lakes Reservoir**. **Big Sister (9,633 ft.)** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

On the odd trail overlooking **Spray Lakes Reservoir**. Photo looks SW.

A better view from right along the shoreline. Photo looks S.

By evening, Lupe was in Banff!

Oh, SPHP! I love Banff! Can we do my traditional Pretty Puppy Parade up and down Banff Avenue? Haven’t done it in ever so long!

Absolutely, Loopster! Can’t miss out on the Pretty Puppy Parade!

Banff had changed since the last time Lupe was here. Vehicles were no longer permitted in the heart of downtown. People were dining at tables out in the street, and a new footbridge was under construction over the Bow River. Banff was still it’s same old festive self, though, with scenic Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) looming in the distance, lined-up perfectly with Banff Avenue.

The Pretty Puppy Parade, a stroll along Banff Avenue while taking in all the tourists, fancy shops, and sniffing with other dogs as opportunity arose, was a success as always. 3 young men from Maryland wanted to pet Lupe. They told her how beautiful she was, which made her day!

Back in **Banff** on the **Pretty Puppy Parade**! **Cascade Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

**Bow River** looking W toward the new footbridge.

8-2-22, 6:30 AM, Banff – Although the night had been warm, the morning was pleasantly cool as the RAV4 hit Hwy 1 on the way out of Banff. An incredibly scenic drive was ahead.

Only one day to spend in the Canadian Rockies? Not nearly enough, SPHP!

Oh, don’t I know it, Loopster? Remember back in 2013 and 2014 when the Canadian Rockies were as far as we went on your Dingo Vacations?

We enjoyed many glorious adventures here, SPHP!

Indeed we did, Loop! Even though we’re making tracks N, we’ll still stop at some of our favorite Canadian Rockies highlights today.

I suppose that’s something, SPHP, but sometime we need to come back to really explore again.

So many mountains, so little time! Lupe was far from alone in wanting to spend more time in the Canadian Rockies. Even though she reached the turn for Moraine Lake at 7:30 AM, the road was closed. Signs said the Moraine Lake parking lot was already full. Even the upper lot at Lake Louise was filling up fast, despite having to pay now.

Crowds had already gathered along the lake shore near the splendid Chateau Lake Louis when Lupe arrived. Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) was still as spectacular as ever beyond the turquoise lake.

**Mount Victoria** (Center) from **Lake Louise**. Photo looks SW.

Remember when we used to take the Plain of Six Glaciers trail all the way to the end to see the Death Trap, SPHP?

Of course, I do! So much fun, we did it twice! Even saw a wolverine once near the end of the day on the way back down to Lake Louise. Remember our biggest adventure here, though, Loop?

How could I forget Fairview Mountain, when I’m looking right at it, SPHP? The views of Mount Victoria, Mount Temple (11,614 ft.), and so many others were absolutely incredible from up there! We explored Saddle Mountain (7,963 ft.), too!

**Fairview Mountain** (L) and **Mount Victoria** (R) from **Lake Louise**. Photo looks SW.

It was a shame Moraine Lake was too crowded to visit, but continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, Lupe got to stop at beautiful Bow Lake, another jumping off region for several fabulous Dingo adventures once upon a time. Mount Jimmy Simpson was in sight beyond red-roofed Num-Ti-Jah Lodge from the picnic ground along the E shoe.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (Center) from **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

From over by the lodge, Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) and the Crowfoot Glacier were in sight to the SE. Bow Glacier Falls and the Bow Glacier above it were visible to the SW.

**Bow Peak** (L) and the **Crowfoot Glacier** (R) from **Bow Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Bow Glacier** and **Bow Glacier Falls** (Center) from **Bow Lake**. Photo looks SW.

Can we go to Bow Glacier Falls, SPHP? That’s an awesome trail!

I’d love to, Loopster, but think we should press on. How about we take the Parker Ridge trail, instead? Won’t take quite as long.

Parker Ridge (7,612 ft.) near the N end of Banff National Park was a bit of a drive yet. However, by 10:45 AM, Lupe was on the popular trail that switchbacks roughly 900 feet up to the crest of the ridge. A short distance beyond the crest she came to the fabulous scenic reward – a splendid view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

**Saskatchewan Glacier** (L) from **Parker Ridge**. Photo looks SW.

A fun off-trail jaunt on grassy slopes among minor rock formations up to Parker Ridge’s E high point provided an even more spectacular vantage point. Almost completely snow-clad Castleguard Mountain (10,098 ft.) was in sight across the canyon at the far upper end of the Saskatchewan Glacier. On this side of the canyon, both Hilda Peak (10,039 ft.) and mighty Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) were in view.

Heading for the **Parker Ridge E high point** (Center). Photo looks E.

At the **Parker Ridge E summit**. **Castleguard Mountain** and **Saskatchewan Glacier** (L), **Mount** **Athabasca** (R), **Hilda Peak** (far R). Photo looks WSW.

Zoomed in a little. **Castleguard Mountain** and **Saskatchewan Glacier** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Mount Saskatchewan (10,965 ft.) loomed in the distance beyond a long section of the North Saskatchewan River canyon visible below the lake at the toe of the glacier.

**Mount Saskatchewan** (far L), **Castleguard Mountain** and **Saskatchewan Glacier** (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Looking NW, Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in sight beyond Sunwapta Pass. Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.) stood out just N of the pass.

**Mount Athabasca** (L), **Hilda Peak** (beyond cairn), **Sunwapta Pass** and **Mount Wilcox** (beyond Lupe), **Nigel Peak** (R). Photo looks NW.

Tremendous views all around, but it was hard not to just keep coming back to that magnificent spectacle of the Saskatchewan Glacier!

**Castleguard Mountain** (L) and the **Saskatchewan Glacier** (L of Center) from **Parker Ridge**. Photo looks SW.

**Castleguard Mountain** and **Saskatchewan Glacier.** Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Parker Ridge was the big outing of the day, but far from the last scenic stop. Sunwapta Pass where Jasper National Park began was only a bit farther N, and just down the road from the pass the Athabasca Glacier was in view right from the highway. A must see!

**Mount Andromeda** (L) and the **Athabasca Glacier** (Center). Photo looks SW.

**Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The Athabasca Glacier was it for the day as far as glaciers. Continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, some incredible waterfalls were the new focus. Sunwapta Falls came first, followed by Athabasca Falls. Both were foaming gray torrents, thundering into narrow gorges below.

Between these falls, Lupe got to stop at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River. The American Dingo enjoyed a romp through the forest looking for squirrels, but didn’t see any.

**Athabasca River** from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground. Photo looks S.

**Mount Kerkeslin (9,698 ft.)** from **Athabasca Falls**. Photo looks SE.

After a quick refueling stop in Jasper, the RAV4 rolled on, taking Lupe W into British Columbia on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. The American Dingo got out briefly for a look at Moose Lake, and yet again for a pleasant trek down to Overlander Falls, where she scrambled among the rocks by the huge swirling whirlpool below it.

**Overlander Falls** in Mount Robson Provincial Park.

The evening ended on a gloomier note with Mount Robson (12,989 ft.), highest peak of the Canadian Rockies, shrouded in clouds and light rain.

At least we got to see Mount Robson before, SPHP. Remember when we went through the Valley of a Thousand Falls all the way to Berg Lake?

Yes! A fantastic trail, Looper. We ought to do that again someday.

8-3-22, 7:31 AM – Fog drifted among the mountains. Still overcast, gray clouds spit light rain. Good day for a long drive! Arriving fairly early, Lupe did get out of the RAV4 for a little while to visit Rearguard Falls, which she had all to herself this morning. Like all the other waterfalls Looper had been to yesterday, the sheer volume and power of the flow was overwhelming.

**Rearguard Falls** is the upper limit of the Fraser River’s Chinook salmon run.

On the elaborate boardwalk leading down to the falls.

Right next to **Rearguard Falls**, which is actually more like a big rapids.

**Rearguard Falls**. Both Rearguard and Overlander Falls are on the Fraser River.

By the **Fraser River** just upstream of Rearguard Falls.

The next stop came 1.5 hours later at the Goat River rest area, a favorite secluded spot on the way to Prince George. Without any signage, SPHP missed the turn, and had to go back.

Enjoying a sniff at the secluded **Goat River rest area**.

Along the **Goat River** near the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge.

Lupe’s final stop before Prince George was at the Ancient Forest. With time somewhat of the essence, the Carolina Dog did only the basic main loop, instead of the entire trail system as she’d done once before. That still allowed her to visit both Treebeard and the Radies Tree again, two enormous 1,000 year old western red cedars.

Lupe explored only the main loop (in green) today.

On the raised boardwalk near the start of the loop.

Among the ferns on the way to the upper part of the loop.

**Treebeard**, named after J.R.R Tolkien’s ent from middle earth.

With many miles to go, it could rain all day long, if it wanted to, which it did off and on. Lupe snoozed on her pink blanket most of the afternoon, occasionally opening an eye to gaze out the window. Going to Alaska! Could anything be more fun? The drive through the drizzle was so very scenic and soothing. A marvelous day!

8-3-22, 5:22 PM – The afternoon was about shot by the time Lupe reached her next stop of any significance. Can’t miss the dazzling flower gardens at Steelhead Park in the little town of Houston! An impressive variety of lilies seemed to be the specialty this year.

**Steelhead Park** in Houston, British Columbia.

Many other kinds of flowers and decorative plants were featured, too. Steelhead Park isn’t very big, so Lupe had time to visit nearly the entire collection. The only genuine disappointment was that the fountain still wasn’t working. It hadn’t been in 2019, either, the last time Loop was here, but had always been operational before then.

Wonder why they don’t fix it, SPHP? The fountain was always such a lovely centerpiece!

Lack of funds, I suppose, Looper. Seems a shame, doesn’t it?

8-3-22, 6:21 PM, Telkwa – The sky remained overcast as Lupe stood on a new sidewalk on a levee overlooking the Bulkley River.

**Bulkley River**, Telkwa, British Columbia.

Not much farther to Smithers now, Looper. We’ll be there soon.

Smithers! That’s where Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) is, SPHP! And the Babine Mountains, too. Remember Harvey Mountain, the Onions, and Astlais Mountain?

Sure do, Loop! Hope the weather clears up tomorrow! Been 5 days, and we’re nearly 1,800 miles from home now. That ought to be about enough driving for a while.

Oh, are we going to climb a mountain tomorrow, SPHP?

If the weather cooperates, Loopster. We’ll see.

On the way to Smithers, a small patch of blue appeared to the N, and the sky brightened to the W. At dusk in Driftwood Canyon, it almost looked like the whole sky was starting to clear, but it was hard to tell for sure.

Along the **Bulkley River**, Telkwa, British Columbia, Canada 8-3-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Book Review: The Klondike Cafe – A Bud Shumway Mystery #11 by Chinle Miller

6-30-20 – Hey, Loopster, come here! Get a load of this!

What is it, SPHP?

Now that we’re temporarily back from your first Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation, I’m checking on some of the cool comments that came in for you on T(M)TAOL while we were gone. You’re never going to believe this one!

Really? Don’t keep me in suspenders, SPHP! What does it say?

Suspense, not suspenders, Loop. Anyway, here goes:

“I hope you don’t mind that I dedicated my book to you, Lupe. If you contact me, I’ll send you a free copy. Even though I’ve been in Tombstone, your adventures helped inspire it, as well as you being who you are.”

A book dedicated to me! Mind? Why would I mind? That’s a great honor, isn’t it? Who wrote that comment?

A great honor? You better believe it is, Loop! Not every day that someone dedicates a book to you. In fact, until now, not any day was. Considering that most people never ever write a book in the first place, and then that the author doesn’t even know you except through T(M)TAOL, this is like getting struck by lightning!

Actually, this is a lot better than getting struck by lightning, SPHP!

Well, of course. I didn’t mean it literally, just that this is an extraordinarily rare event.

So, you still haven’t told me who wrote that comment. And what’s the book called?

The comment is from Chinle, Chinle Miller.

Oh, Chinle! I like Chinle. Chinle has written quite a few nice comments on T(M)TAOL. You never told me she was an author, though.

There’s a reason for that. I didn’t know it, either, until now. Chinle must really like you, too, Looper. One of your biggest fans! Dedicating a book she spent who knows how long writing to you is absolute proof, as if any was needed. Why, Chinle must have been planning this for ages!

Lupe beamed from big soft Dingo ear to big soft Dingo ear.

OK! So back to the name of this book, SPHP. What’s it called? What’s it about? Can you send for my free copy right now?

Sure, we’ll send Chinle a reply. I don’t know what the book is called, but there’s a link that Chinle sent along with the comment. Let’s check it out.

The link went to an Amazon page.

Hey, hey! Here it is, Loop! Wow, totally legit! The Klondike Cafe (Bud Shumway Mystery Series Book 11) by Chinle Miller. Rated 4.7 out of 5.0 stars on Amazon! That’s mighty good. People must really like it!

The Klondike Cafe? Must be about Canada! We’ve been to the Klondike Highway and the Klondike River, right? Don’t remember ever being at the cafe, though. What else does it say, SPHP?

The cafe might be fictional, Loop. Not sure. The Klondike Cafe is a novel. There’s a synopsis. Listen to this:

“When a Mountie shows up in Sheriff Bud Shumway’s Utah office and accuses him of aiding and abetting a possible murderer in Canada’s Yukon Territory, Bud is mystified, especially since he doesn’t even know the guy. And when he receives a gold-mining claim transferred to his name and a cryptic message telling him to come to the Klondike Cafe, Bud is soon on his way, even though he has no idea where the cafe is or why his help is needed.

Join Bud on the adventure of a lifetime, as he discovers the beauty and sometimes deadly lure of the North Country, the land once charted on maps as the “Great Northern Mystery.”

A murder mystery! I didn’t expect that, SPHP, but I was right about Canada, wasn’t I? The sheriff goes to the Yukon to solve the case, and get rich mining gold! Sounds like The Klondike Cafe must have a lot more of a plot than our adventures do. We’re always like, “Here’s a cool mountain, let’s see if we can get to the top?” Usually different mountains, but sort of the same thing every time. No one gets killed on our adventures.

No, they don’t. Planning on keeping it that way, too! If people want more drama than we provide, they’d be better off reading The Klondike Cafe. Anyway, there’s more here, another link. Apparently to a bio about Chinle.

So, read it to me!

Intend to, Looper:

About Chinle Miller

Chinle Miller wanders the outback of Colorado and Utah, eyeing civilization from a safe distance. She’s accompanied by her dogs and occasional ravens.

She has a B.A. in Anthropology and an M.A. in Linguistics and an A.S. in Geology.

Short and sweet, but does sort of explain why Chinle likes you, Loop. She has dogs, and enjoys spending time with them out in remote places, just like you and me. In fact, sounds like she’s more of a real nomad than we are. Most of the time, we’re at home. Civilization does have its perks!

Oh, and she’s a geologist, too, SPHP. Which means she must like rocks. Mountains have a lot of rocks, so maybe she likes that I climb mountains? She might not be such a complete nomad like you’re saying, though. Most nomads don’t spend that much time in school. An M.A. in Linguistics! Wonder if Chinle and her dogs talk like we do?

Of course, they do. I’m sure of it! Here, let’s send Chinle a response right now. Thank her for the grand honor she’s bestowed upon you, and get that free copy of The Klondike Cafe on the way.

Chinle responded the very next day. It was going to take a little while, but she would get The Klondike Cafe sent to Lupe as soon as she could, personally autographed, no less! Amazingly, it got even better than that, as Chinle went on to say “Thanks, but you’re the real star, Lupe, and beautiful to boot! But I think you’ll like Lindie, the dingo in the book, as she’s based on you, though I make her look a little more coyote like.”

A murder mystery in the Yukon with a Dingo named Lindie playing a role! Lupe and SPHP were both excited. The Klondike Cafe was really something to look forward to!

July. Adventure season! The Klondike Cafe arrived while Lupe was out climbing mountains in Wyoming and Utah during her second Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation. There it was, though, brand spanking new when she returned home on July 26th.

200 pages long, quick-paced, and mostly light-hearted (despite being a murder mystery!) And, oh boy, was The Klondike Cafe ever good! As the synopsis and title of the series indicated, Sheriff Bud Shumway is the star. Early on he is astonished to find himself inexplicably entangled in a murder he doesn’t know anything about, yet suspected by the Canadian Mounties of somehow having a hand in it.

Sheriff Shumway is soon reluctantly leaving his semi-capable deputy, Howie, in charge of things back in his hometown of Green River, Utah, and is on his way to the far north to figure out not only who done it, but exactly what, how, and why they’d done it. Bud’s very capable wife, Wilma Jean, a pilot and business owner, is also left behind trying to stay in touch with her husband while taking care of the watermelon farm they own, plus their two dogs Hoppie and Pierre.

Realizing this trip will be a rare chance for adventure in places he’s only dreamed of before regardless of how the murder mystery he’s wrapped up in turns out, Bud brings along his harmonica, which he is learning to play, and a camera to take photos of the Northern Lights.

In addition to all the fixes Bud finds himself in as the plot unfolds, The Klondike Cafe is sprinkled not only with brief geology lessons, but bits of information on Canadian First Nations, too. Everywhere he goes, Sheriff Shumway meets an interesting cast of characters all with problems, likes and dislikes, motivations, and dreams of their own. Meanwhile, Chinle is busy slipping in snippets of her sneaky sense of humor, as well. “Palatial Estates Trailer Park”! SPHP had to laugh, yet you just know such a contradiction in terms might actually exist.

Bud makes it to Skagway, Alaska, a major cruise ship port and start of the White Pass Railroad that goes through Fraser up to Carcross in the Yukon, passing Lindeman and Bennett Lakes along the way. The action takes him to Whitehorse, capitol city of the Yukon, where paddle wheel steamships once provided transportation and brought in supplies in the days before roads; Dawson City, heart of the Klondike Gold Rush, with its free ferry across the Yukon River to the Top of the World Highway; and up the Dempster Highway to the spectacular trail to Grizzly Lake in Tombstone Territorial Park.

Since Lupe and SPHP have been to so many of the incredible places Bud visits in The Klondike Cafe, that really helped to make it all come alive. Despite Chinle’s considerable descriptive powers, readers who’ve never been to these parts of Canada or Alaska might have a harder time fully appreciating the amazing wilderness stage upon which Sheriff Shumway’s sleuthing plays out.

For Lupe, The Klondike Cafe was more than just an exciting tale of Bud’s adventures and travails while trying to solve the mystery at paw, it was a constant reminder of all the great adventures she’d been on with SPHP in the same areas Bud was getting to know.

**Taiya Inlet** and **Skagway** (L) as seen on the way up **AB Mountain** to join the Arctic Sisterhood, Alaska 8-7-17

Cruise ship in **Skagway**, Alaska 8-7-17

**White Pass & Yukon Route train** in **Skagway**, Alaska 8-7-17

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood at the **Arctic Brotherhood hall** in **Skagway**, Alaska 8-8-17

Exploring past the end of the **International Falls trail**, which crosses the US/Canada border between Skagway & Carcross, 8-8-17

On **Fraser Peak**, British Columbia near the US/Canada border, 8-9-17

**Carcross** and **Bennett Lake** as seen on the way up **Nares Mountain**, Yukon Territory, 9-10-18

In **Whitehorse**, by the **S.S. Klondike**, which used to ply the upper Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City, Yukon Territory 8-10-17

On **Grey Mountain** (Canyon Mountain) near **Whitehorse**, Yukon Territory, 9-9-18

**Dawson City** and the **Yukon River** from **Midnight Dome**, Yukon Territory 8-23-18

Lupe reaches **Tombstone Territorial Park** near kilometer 50 of the Dempster Highway, Yukon Territory 9-3-17

Approaching **Grizzly Lake**. **Mount Monolith** (R). **Tombstone Territorial Park**, Yukon Territory, 9-6-17

At the **Dawson City General Store**, Yukon Territory 9-3-17

The **free ferry** across the **Yukon River** in **Dawson City**, Yukon Territory 9-3-17

**Top of the World Highway** from **Swede Dome**, Yukon Territory 8-24-18

“They all walked inside and on to better things.” So that’s it, Looper. The end. Wha’dya think?

The Klondike Cafe was a great story, SPHP! You ought to learn to write like that. One bad thing about it, though!

Really? I thought it was terrific! What didn’t you like?

Makes me wish we were up in the Yukon having more adventures of our own right this very minute!

Yeah, me too! Sort of a fabulous trip down memory lane for us, wasn’t it? Got any favorite parts?

Oh, I liked Sheriff Shumway’s adventures and harmonica playing, but I loved Lindie best of all. So courageous! She not only helped Bud find the Klondike Cafe, she even helped solve the murder mystery, too, you know! Good press for all of us American Dingoes! For some strange reason, Carolina Dogs don’t get much of that.

So you loved Lindie best of all, Lupe? Well, knock me over with a feather. Who’da thunk it? Guess we’ve got partners now in Lindie and Sheriff Bud Shumway helping to spread the word on Carolina Dogs and their love of adventure!

Thank you, Chinle!

We’ll always treasure The Klondike Cafe! – Lupe & SPHP

**North Klondike River** in **Tombstone Territorial Park**, Yukon Territory 9-4-17

Links:

The Klondike Cafe on Amazon

In addition to the Bud Shumway Mystery Series, Chinle is the author of Desert Rats: Adventures in the American Outback, Uranium Daughter, The Impossibility of Loneliness, In Mesozoic Lands: The Mesozoic Geology of Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, plus several U.S. National Park guides.

Chinle Miller on Amazon

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Dingo Tales Index, Black Hills of South Dakota & Wyoming Expeditions Index, or Dingo Vacations Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.