Beaver Slide Mountain, the Arctic Circle, and the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center, Alaska (8-19-22)

Part 2 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

10:11 AM, 47ºF – After leaving Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), the Dalton Highway gradually descended to the Kanuti River, crossed it, and began to climb again.

Hey, Loop!  Skies are pretty cloudy up ahead, and the last forecast we had said 70% chance of rain in Coldfoot today, so I don’t think there’s any big rush to get there.  We’re coming to a big hill that I’d more or less forgotten about since the last time we were here in 2017.  Should be an easy climb.  Are you interested?

Will we still get to the Arctic Circle today, SPHP?

Oh, yeah!  No sweat!  We’re practically to it already, Looper.  In fact, we’re so close that I’m thinking of naming this hill Subarctic Peak, since it’s only about 5 miles S of the Arctic Circle.

Subarctic Peak, SPHP?  I like it!  Sounds like a cool name for my first new Alaskan peak in 3 years.  Let’s do it!

11:26 AM, 49ºF, near MP110 – The Dalton Highway went right on up and over Subarctic Peak’s E shoulder.  Parking the RAV4 alongside an Alaska oil pipeline access road conveniently close to the high point, SPHP then shared a light lunch of cheese and Ritz crackers with the Carolina Dog.

Well, that ought to be about enough, Looper.  You were urpy this morning, remember?  Ready for a romp up Subarctic Peak?

Yes, but I’m even more ready for more cheese and crackers, SPHP.

I know, but let’s not overdue it.  C’mon!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Setting out for Subarctic Peak (L). Photo looks W.

Trotting a short distance NW to the Dalton Highway’s high point, Lupe came to a sign.

What does it say, SPHP?

Says “Beaver Slide”, Loop.

Beaver Slide?  Odd, what’s that supposed to mean, SPHP?

It means I was wrong, Loopster.  I just assumed this hill didn’t have a name, but it does.  Beaver Slide is a name assigned by the truckers who first drove the Dalton Highway during its construction.

Well, it’s a funny name, SPHP.  You mean to tell me that the first new peak I’m climbing in Alaska is actually Beaver Slide?  Subarctic Peak sounded way more daunting, maybe even dangerous!

Maybe so, Loop, but it is what it is.  Besides, maybe Beaver “Slide” actually does imply some real danger to a trucker on the long approaches during icy conditions?

Oh, well then, that’s different, SPHP!  Beaver Slide Mountain (2,600 ft.), or bust!

Going a little beyond the crest of the Dalton Highway prior to crossing over to the W side, the ditch was full of water.  Backtracking to the high point, the ditch was drier.  Lupe was reluctant to follow SPHP through thick vegetation toward a line of tall bushes until discovering a faint path that got her past them.

Emerging from the tall bushes, the path continued up a mixed slope of tundra and much lower bushes.  A couple of sizable rock outcroppings were ahead.  Beyond them a series of high points were in sight along Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge.

Heading for the N ridge. Photo looks WNW.

The path went W up a shallow drainage that was wet in spots.  Only a few days past mid-August, but the tundra was already sporting amazing autumn colors.  Brilliant reds of the alpine bearberries were the most dazzling of all.

On a dazzling carpet of alpine bearberries.
Alpine bearberries.

Passing between the 2 rock outcroppings, the path turned NW along the back side of the larger one.  Lupe left the trail here to scramble up onto a small stony ridge.  Gazing ESE back toward the start, the RAV4 was only a blue dot down by the Dalton Highway and the Alaska oil pipeline.

Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline from the first stony ridge. Photo looks ESE.

To the W, an easy tundra slope led up to a saddle between the 2 high points farthest N along Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge.

The saddle (L of Center) on Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge. Photo looks W.

During the gorgeous trek up to the saddle, Lupe passed a few more wet spots, but the tundra was dry by the time she reached it.  Several rocky high points were now visible off to the S, the most distant one being the apparent summit.  Another high spot was only a short distance N.

Beaver Slide Mountain summit (L of Center). Photo looks S.
Northernmost high point (R of Center) along the N ridge. Photo looks N.

I know it’s the lowest one, but want to check out the N high point, SPHP?

Sure!  Why not, Loop?  We’re almost there already.

At the N high point, a knob of rock made a terrific Dingo perch offering some great views.  The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were off to the E and N.  The 3 high points the American Dingo would head for next were due S.  Perhaps the most intriguing view was of a big dome 7 miles WNW.

On the N high point. Summit (R of Center) in the middle. Photo looks S.
Beaver Slide Mountain’s N high point. Lupe started from the side road (L) linking the Dalton Highway and the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks SE.
Dalton Highway heading off to the N. Photo looks NNW.
The intriguing dome (Center). Photo looks WNW.

That’s a cool dome, SPHP!  Looks like it wouldn’t be hard to get to, either.

Maybe someday, Miss Ambitious, but we’re not going that far today.

Does it have a name, SPHP?

Nanuk Benchmark (2,688 ft.), Looper.  Or Nanuk Dome, if you prefer.

If we’re not going there today, SPHP, at least put it on my list of future possibilities.

I will, Loopster!  Ready to continue on to the next high point?

Might as well hit ’em all, SPHP!

Following the broad ridge S to the next high point, Lupe was soon there.  Like the N high point, this one featured a rocky Dingo perch, too.

Heading for the next high point (L). Photo looks S.
On the 2nd high point. 1st (N) high point (R). Photo looks N.

Two higher points were still farther S.  Lupe passed a smaller crag on the way to the third high point, which was capped with a ridge of boulders.  Getting up onto the third high point required a little bit of a scramble, but nothing the Carolina Dog wasn’t up to.

Summit (Center), and the 3rd high point (R of Center). Photo looks S.
Approaching the 3rd high point (Center). Photo looks S.
3rd high point (L), 1st high point (Center), 2nd high point (R). Photo looks N.
On the 3rd high point. Photo looks SSW.
Beaver Slide Mountain summit (L) from the 3rd high point. Photo looks SSW.

Only one more high point to go!  From the 3rd high point, it still looked like the true summit of Beaver Slide Mountain, too, although there might possibly be something a little higher still unseen beyond it.

The S end of the 3rd high point was so precipitous that Loopster had to scramble down to the E before continuing her trek S.

Beaver Slide Mountain summit (Center). Photo looks S.
Starting the scramble down off the 3rd high point. Photo looks NW.
Passing a couple of minor ridges on the way to the summit. Photo looks WSW.

1:07 PM, 52ºF, Beaver Slide Mountain (2,600 ft.) – The slope leading to the true summit was both gentler and longer than any of the other high points had been.  The summit region was much more spacious, and less rugged, too.  Lupe arrived to find a metal rod jutting up from the rocks, but that was it.

Heading up to the true summit. Photo looks S.
At the true summit of Beaver Slide Mountain. Photo looks N.

Congratulations, Loopster!  May I shake your paw?

Of course, SPHP!  Talk about easy!  Beaver Slide Mountain is cake!  Nothing dangerous about it at all.

Well, I kind of figured this one wasn’t too tough, Loopster, but look at these views!  Worthwhile, wouldn’t you say?  Personally, I think they’re marvelous!

Oh, I most definitely agree, SPHP.  Glad we came!  Naturally, I’d appreciate these views even more, if you happen to have a chocolate coconut bar.

Luck of the Dingo, I do!

Sitting down together in a 10 mph NW breeze, the chocolate coconut bar quickly vanished without a trace.  For nearly half an hour, Lupe stayed on SPHP’s lap surveying the magnificent views in all directions.  Beneath mostly cloudy skies, Beaver Slide Mountain itself never seemed to be in sunshine, but patches of sunlight could be seen drifting across a vast empty land of rolling hills and valleys.

The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were still in sight to the E.  A tiny blip was identifiable as the top of Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.) far to the SE only because the Dalton Highway went right by it.

Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline (Center & R). Photo looks NE.

Nearly due S, Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) was 7 miles away.  Lupe had been there 5 years ago.  Seeing it again from here produced a wistful, funny feeling.

Caribou Mountain (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

7 miles WNW,  Nanuk Dome (2,688 ft.) continued to entice.  A few miles closer, and Lupe would have set out for it today.

Nanuk Dome (L). Photo looks NW.
Nanuk Dome (Center). Photo looks WNW.

But it was the view more directly W here, where unspoiled hills and ridges extended seemingly to the end of the world somewhere beyond vision, that felt most compelling.  Lupe could roam there forever!

An unspoiled world! Photo looks W.

1:49 PM, Beaver Slide Mountain

Getting sunnier, SPHP.  It’s wonderful here, but if we aren’t going to go any farther, maybe we should head back?  I still want to visit the Arctic Circle today, and if we get far enough N afterwards, maybe we can be ready to do something in the Brooks Range tomorrow?

Alrighty, Looper.  Hate to leave, but I guess that makes sense.  If it’s sunny in the Brooks Range tomorrow, you’re right!  We won’t want to miss out.

Final moments on Beaver Slide Mountain. Photo looks N.

The return was a super easy, scenic romp across the beautiful tundra.  Lupe went by all the high points she’d visited during her ascent, but did not climb any of them again.

Approaching the 3rd high point (Center) on the way back. Photo looks N.
Leaving an enchanted land! 3rd high point (L). Photo looks SW.

Once back to the RAV4 (3:00 PM, 59ºF), the Arctic Circle was only another 5 miles N.  Didn’t take long to get there, but so many people were coming and going that Lupe had to wait quite a while for her turn in front of the big sign.

At the Arctic Circle!

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back!  On this happy day, Lupe reached the true Arctic again for the 5th time!

3 years ago, the Arctic Circle was as far N as the American Dingo made it.  She’d arrived along the Dempster Highway in Yukon Territory in a miserable cold rain on the verge of becoming a snowstorm that might easily have stranded the old G6.  Through the gloom, Lupe had seen new snow on the Richardson Mountains before SPHP felt obliged to beat a hasty retreat.

She hadn’t been this far N since.

6:00 PM, Coldfoot, MP175 – No stopping Looper today, though!  60 miles N of the Arctic Circle at Coldfoot Camp in the Brooks Range, she waited in the RAV4 while SPHP gorged on the evening buffet.  The only choice available from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM, the buffet was $27.95, tax included.

So, was it worth it?  You should have seen the Carolina Dog’s eyes light up when SPHP produced a big barbecued beef rib with plenty of savory meat attached.  Munching and crunching away, Lupe devoured it, bone and all!  So deliciously satisfying!

Gasoline was a mere $7.499 per gallon.  The Brooks Range is no place to get stingy!  SPHP let the RAV4 quench its thirst.

Coldfoot Camp. One operational gas pump. Better get it while the getting’s good!

The Arctic Interagency Visitor Center right across the Dalton Highway from Coldfoot Camp was open until 9:00 PM, giving SPHP a chance to play tourist after dinner while Lupe relaxed in the RAV4.

Sign at the turn off the Dalton Highway to the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center.
At the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center.

The visitor center proved to have lots of free brochures, some really nice displays, and a friendly, helpful staff.  SPHP liked the dioramas best, and even attended a 40 minute long ranger talk held just before closing time.

Top of the world display.
Diorama with a stuffed grizzly.
A wolverine.
Mountain sheep.
Another diorama.

9:40 PM, Dalton Highway N of Coldfoot – After crossing 2 bridges over the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River, a side road appeared on the R beyond MP195.  After making the turn, this side road led to an enormous open space.  Ahead stood a huge mountain, all golden in the late evening sun.  A skiff of new snow was visible near the top.

Poss Mountain. Photo looks SE.

This must be the place, Loop!

What place, SPHP?  Are we going to climb that mountain?

Weather permitting, that’s the plan, Looper.  Think this is where Andrew Holman and Abbey Collins set out for Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) less than a year ago.

So, that’s Poss Mountain, SPHP?

Believe so, Loopster.  Been wanting to take a stab at Poss ever since we first saw it from Sukakpak Mountain back in 2016.

Poss Mountain looks mighty steep, SPHP!  Really think we can climb it?

Don’t know, Loop.  Might be beyond us.  Shall we find out?

On Beaver Slide Mountain, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-19-22

Links:

Next Adventure                        Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Beaver Slide Mountain GPS Track (Ascent)

Caribou Mountain, Alaska 8-16-17

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

To the Arctic Circle! – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood (8-16-19 & 8-17-19)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-16-19, 6:02 AM, 36ºF, at the Mount Haldane trailhead – Chili bean!  Chilly enough to fire the G6 up to get the heater going.  Might as well drive a bit.  Minutes after waking, Lupe was headed S on the Silver Trail.

Mostly cloudy, with darker stuff to the W.  SPHP didn’t drive far, 15 km?  After crossing the Minto Bridge over the Mayo River, SPHP pulled into the rest stop on the other side.  Chili for breakfast.  American Dingoes love chili!  Lupe happily scarfed down her share.  SPHP moved the G6 close to the river where she could watch a flotilla of ducks.

The sky darkened.  Mist, then rain.  Hah!  The decision to climb Mount Haldane (6,023 ft.) yesterday had been a good one!  A beautiful day hadn’t gone to waste.  Apparently, if yesterday had been spent driving to get into position for a different peak this morning, Loopster would have gotten rained out anyway.  As it was, after two big days of peakbagging in a row, a lazy day was in order.  Let it rain all it wanted!

8-16-19, 3:36 PM, 57ºF, Silver Trail at the Minto Bridge rest area – Rain tapering off, and the trip journal caught up.  About to get underway again!

8-16-19, 4:09 PM, 51ºF, Five Mile Lakes campground – No rain here!  Still heavily overcast, though.  Lupe got out for a look at the lake.  Nice, but certainly nowhere near five miles long or across.  The name must come from being five miles N of Mayo.  Turned out that the picnic ground was at a separate location a short drive from the campground.

At the Five Mile Lakes campground beach.

The picnic ground was empty when Lupe arrived.  The lake wasn’t far away, but wasn’t in view, either.  No matter.  SPHP heated up a can of clam chowder for supper.  American Dingoes aren’t thrilled with clam chowder.  Loopster sniffed around the edges of the boreal forest and found a squirrel to bark at instead.

8-16-19, 7:42 PM, Gravel Lake – Lupe’s 2019 Silver Trail adventures were behind her now.  Along the N Klondike Highway, a short stop was made for a look at Gravel Lake.  Big, round, and probably shallow, Gravel Lake appeared to be merely an over-sized pond.

Charmingly named Gravel Lake.

However, a plaque about lodgepole pines contained amazing information.  These days Gravel Lake is about as far N as lodgepole pines are found in the Yukon, but 1,000,000 years ago they grew as far N as Old Crow.  The virtually unbelievable part was that lodgepole pine seeds can remain dormant for 10,000 years before sprouting!

8-16-19, 8:31 PM, 55 ºF, at the start of the Dempster Highway – At the S end of the Dempster Highway, SPHP fueled the G6 up at the automated gas station.  No quibbling about price, even if one wanted to.  Not a good place to get stingy, anyway.  Last chance for gas between here and Eagle Plains – 369 unpaved km away!

In 2018, Lupe had traveled the entire 737 km Dempster Highway all the way to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories.  She had even pressed on taking the new all-season road (Hwy 10) to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean, 845 km from here!  Whether the Carolina Dog would get that far on this Dingo Vacation or not wasn’t decided yet.  Adventures were in the works as far as the Richardson Mountains N of the Arctic Circle.  Beyond that, the crystal ball was hazy.

At any rate, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way back to the true Arctic!  To commemorate the occasion, she stopped by the big Dempster Highway sign before heading N.

The Dempster Highway starts at this junction with the North Klondike Highway 496 km/308 miles N of Whitehorse.
Dempster Highway display.
Dempster Highway display.

8-16-19, 9:39 PM, 50 ºF near Dempster Highway km 26 – Now that it was about over, Loopster saw the first hint of blue sky she’d seen all day.  For a moment sunshine was on a hillside!  Encouraging, although the sun never appeared.  The Ogilvie Mountains were coming into view ahead!  SPHP found a spot to park, so Lupe could get out for a look.

A chance to stretch after being cooped up in the G6 most of the day.
Approaching the Ogilvie Mountains. Photo looks N.

Far enough!  Still light out, but time to call it a day.  With a little luck, the Ogilvie Mountains would be out of the clouds tomorrow.  Although she’d snoozed for hours in the G6, Lupe went right back to preparing for Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) in the morning.

Shhhh! Peakbagging preparations underway!

Not long after dark, though, the mist returned.  Then rain.  Not good.

8-17-19, 6:50 AM, 36 ºF – What’s this?  A clear blue sky!  Awesome!  Full of optimism the American Dingo hit the road N.  Soon she reached the S boundary of Tombstone Territorial Park.  Sunlight was visible on the peaks of the Ogilvie Mountains, yet the sky was much hazier than just a short while ago.  Trees were swaying in a lively breeze.

About to enter Tombstone Territorial Park. Ogilvie Mountains in view. Photo looks N.

8-17-19, 8:14 AM, 32 ºF, km 71.5 of the Dempster Highway at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre – What a change!  Cold, windy, with new snow on the mountains.  Mount Chester Henderson lost in the clouds.  The interpretive center didn’t open until 9:00 AM.  A weather forecast posted outside showed sunny with highs of 12 ºC and lows of 0 ºC the next several days, but that was for Dawson City, not here.

No local forecast, but there was one for where Lupe was ultimately heading – km 450 of the Dempster Highway.  That had to be Wright Pass in the Richardson Mountains on the border of the Northwest Territories, or close to it!  Unsurprisingly, the Wright Pass forecast wasn’t as good as Dawson City’s – highs of 3 or 4 ºC with lows of -3 to 1 ºC today and the next 3 days.  Most days cloudy with periods of rain or snow.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Mainly that we should wait for the interpretive center to open, Loop.  The forecast for Dawson City, which isn’t too far away, is decent, but that’s way down by the Yukon River.  Maybe the rangers can tell us a little more about what to expect up here?

New snow in the mountains across the Dempster Highway from the Tombstone Interpretive Centre parking lot. Photo looks E.

Breakfast was lukewarm.  The cold wind made it nearly impossible to heat anything up.  SPHP returned to the interpretive centre shortly after it opened.  A surprisingly busy place, but that was due to the weather.  Everyone was cancelling hikes and backpacking trips, and wondering what else there was to do?

A local forecast?  Nothing official, but the ranger SPHP talked to said to expect little change.  Overcast, high temps near freezing, and a 60% chance of rain or snow every day for the next 3 days.  Improving after that.  They did have a new extended forecast for Wright Pass, which was at least somewhat encouraging.

What’s the verdict, SPHP?

What we see is going to stick around awhile, Loop.

Mount Chester Henderson isn’t happening then, is it?

Nope, don’t even want to leave the G6 in this frigid wind.  No point in it, anyway, with the mountain up in the clouds.  Same situation for anything else we might consider around here.

So what now?

I’m pondering that, Looper.  Seems we’ve simply hit it wrong.  Our timing is off.  The safe bet is to just chalk it up to bad luck and head for Alaska.  Somewhere skies are blue!

We’ve come such a long way, though, SPHP!  Are we really going to give up on everything we were going to do along the Dempster Highway just like that?  Aren’t there any other options?

Yeah, we could just sit here or go to Dawson City waiting for the weather to improve, but that’s not in the cards for at least 4 more days.  Even then, no guarantees.  Only one other thing I can think of, but it’s a gamble.  We could keep heading N.  Things aren’t any better in the Richardsons, but if we can make it over Wright Pass, we could probably go all the way back to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk!

Oh, the Arctic Ocean would be grand!  And that would chew up a few days, SPHP!  Maybe it would warm up by the time we headed S again?  We might still get a shot at climbing a mountain or two in the Richardson Range!

Exactly, Loopster!  The extended forecast does show improvement at Wright Pass on the 21st – sunny and 9 ºC.  Cloudy with showers the next day, but then mostly sunny and 11 ºC on the 23rd.

And even if none of that works out, remember Greg and Svetlana from Mount Lorne?  They invited us to go to Grizzly Lake with them on the 23rd here in Tombstone Territorial Park.  Maybe that would work?

Certainly a possibility.  So what do you want to do, Loop?

Well, as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I feel some responsibility to make an effort to return to the true arctic.  Can we just keep going N and see how things turn out?  Not many Dingoes have ever been to the Arctic Ocean twice!

You can say that again!  Darn few have been there even once!  Actually, if we get there, you will have almost made it to the Arctic Ocean 3 times.  Remember Deadhorse, Alaska?  Since they didn’t allow Dingoes, I had to take the Arctic Ocean tour as your personal representative, but you were within only a few miles of the Arctic Ocean then, too.  Alrighty, then.  I sort of feel the same way you do.  Shall we gamble?

Onward, SPHP!

Cold and windy out, but road conditions were fine.  Even beneath leaden skies, the scenery was spectacular!  No rush on such a day.  The G6 made many stops at favorite points.  The first was at the famous viewpoint overlooking the North Klondike River valley only a couple of km beyond the interpretive centre.  On a clear day, Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) could be seen at the far end.

This wasn’t a clear day.

N Klondike River valley, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SW.
A closer look with help from the telephoto lens.

The Carolina Dog went past Goldensides, over North Fork Pass, and saw the lower slopes of Angelcomb Peak.

Approaching North Fork Pass. Photo looks NNE.
Upper E Blackstone River valley from North Fork Pass. Photo looks WSW.
North Fork Pass looking down the E Blackstone River valley. Photo looks NW.
E Blackstone River valley. Photo looks W.

8-17-19, 11:39 AM, 30 ºF, Dempster Hwy km 95 (Bubbly Pond) – A longer stop was made at the Bubbly Pond pullout, the lower portion of a two-tier parking area on the E side of the Dempster Highway.  Even colder here, but low enough to be protected from the wind, so it didn’t seem bad at all.

Lupe got a chance to sniff through the bushes, play with a stick, and show off how fast she could run!  Naturally she visited the bubbly pond, too.  Before hitting the Dempster Highway again, she topped it all off with a leisurely counter-clockwise sniff clear around the perimeter of the big parking area.

The bubbly pond parking area, km 95 of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks WNW.
By the bubbly pond. Photo looks E.

Surfbird Mountain (km 98) was low enough to be out of the clouds and had only a skiff of snow.  Farther on, Loopster made stops at the E Blackstone River rest area (km 107) E of Peak 5262 and Chapman Lake.

The E Blackstone River was running high. Photo looks NE.
Chapman Lake just N of Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog barked at wild horses in the E Blackstone River, but they were too far away to even look up.

Wild horses in the E Blackstone River valley. Photo looks E with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the endless gloomy sky, optimism grew.  All was well!  The G6 rolled on.  So much fun to see these incredible places again!  Lupe had been this far N on the Dempster Highway only once, but that had been just a year ago.  Memory was still fresh.  Suddenly being here again felt fantastic!  If only the weather would turn, fabulous adventures awaited!

A quick stop at Windy Pass (km 152) recalled the tremendous day Lupe had climbing Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak, and Peak 5906 last year.  The Carolina Dog also got a chance to stretch her legs at scenic Engineer Creek (km 168 & 172) and the bridge over the Ogilvie River.

Back at Windy Pass. Windy Pass Peak (L). Photo looks S.
Engineer Creek, km 168 of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks SE.
Engineer Creek, km 172. Photo looks S.
Dempster Highway and Engineer Creek, km 172. Photo looks NNE.
Bridge at the confluence of Engineer Creek and the Ogilvie River. Photo looks SE.
Same bridge with Sapper Hill (3,150 ft.) (Center) in the background. Photo looks E.

Shortly after passing Churchward Hill (km 225), the situation began to change.  A light rain set in.  No problem, at first, but Seven Mile Hill where the Dempster Highway climbs out of the Ogilvie River valley wasn’t much farther, and proved to be muddy and slick.  Low traction caused the G6 to struggle and slip.  No guardrails.  A tad unnerving!

Snow was in the air by the time Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area (km 259) at the top of Seven Mile Hill.  Not sticking much … yet.

The situation was deteriorating by the time Lupe reached Ogilvie Ridge. Normally a great view of the Ogilvie River valley from here. Not today.

I don’t know, Looper.  We better talk about this.

Thinking about turning around, SPHP?  We got up Seven Mile Hill alright.

Yeah, we were doing great, but now it appears we’re heading into weather.  Hasn’t been a speck of blue sky all day.  Rain is one thing, but the snow scares me.  We’ve got 5/8 of a full tank.  If we go much farther, we won’t have any choice, but to continue on to the Eagle Plains hotel where the next fuel is.  If we wait too long to turn around, we won’t have enough fuel to get back.  The G6 isn’t any good in snow.  If conditions worsen, we might easily end up stranded.

How much farther to the Eagle Plains hotel?

Still 110 km to go.  Will take hours bumping along at a snail’s pace.

Can we stay at the hotel, if we get there, SPHP?

Sure, if they’re got room.

Well, we can go a little farther, can’t we?  If it starts snowing harder, we’ll turn around having given it our best shot!  If things improve or stay about the same, we can head for the hotel.  How’s that?

A little dicey, but makes some sense.  At least there aren’t any more hills as big as Seven Mile Hill before we get to the Eagle Plains hotel.  OK, we’ll go a bit farther and see what happens.

8-17-19, 4:05 PM, 35 ºF crossing the Eagle Plains – No turning back now!  Not enough fuel.  A mix of snow and rain all the way since leaving Ogilvie Ridge.  Fortunately, still warm enough so nothing was sticking.  The Dempster Highway was a rough, pot holey, sloppy mess, but firm.  The G6 crept along, jolting and splooshing through the puddles.

Despite how slowly SPHP was driving, no vehicle going N passed the G6.  Scarcely any traffic at all.  Occasionally a vehicle heading S appeared.  Lupe actually had a few peakbagging objectives along in here, minor hills that should have been easy climbs, but SPHP couldn’t even find them in this weather.  Not leaving the highway in this cold, foggy soup, anyway.  No way!

Crossing the Eagle Plains.

8-17-19, 5:38 PM, 33 ºF, Eagle Plains hotel – Nothing dramatic happened.  Just a dreary, damp, marginally above freezing day.  The G6 made it!  At Eagle Plains fuel was $1.70 CAN per liter, roughly $4.95 US per gallon.  A bargain.  Fill ‘er up!  Confidence restored.

A hopeful Dingo looks forward to a pleasant evening at the Eagle Plains Hotel (km 369).

Any rooms available?  Yes!  $160 CAN per night, tax included.  Sounds good!  Only one person?  Yep, and a Dingo.  Sorry, no pets.  We have 2 pet friendly rooms, but both are taken.

No soft warm bed.  No spacious room.  Lupe was crushed.

A check of the latest weather forecast on display in the hotel wasn’t as good as the one back at the Tombstone Interpretive Center.  One day of sunshine ahead 4 days from now with a high of 6 ºC.  The next day 8 ºC, but cloudy.  Then a 10 ºC day, but rainy.  Until then 3 more days of gloom with rain, snow, and temperatures within plus or minus a few degrees of freezing.

Only one thing to do.

8-17-19, 7:03 PM, 33 ºF, windy, leaving the Eagle Plains hotel – 36 km to go.  Barely raining now, so the road was a bit drier.  After crossing the Eagle River, the G6 had an easier time climbing the steep hill out of the valley than last year.  Kms clicked away.  The lower, snow-covered slopes of the Richardson Mountains came into view.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was coming!

Approaching the Richardson Mountains.

8-17-19, 8:18 PM, 33 ºF, breezy at the Arctic Circle (km 405)

Congratulations, Loopster!  You’ve made it back to the true arctic for the 4th year running!

Thank you, SPHP!  The mountains are all snowy!

Yeah, and the forecast is lousy.  Not going to stand much chance of getting any peakbagging done in the Richardsons.  Maybe Peak 3850 just S of Wright Pass on the way back from the Arctic Ocean?  That’s about it.

We’re going on to Tuktoyaktuk?

All depends on if we can make it over Wright Pass tomorrow.  If we can, I think you’ll be seeing the Land of the Pingos again.  Still a long way, but we’ve already come so far.  Why not go for it?

The American Dingo was more than willing.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the true arctic!
At the Arctic Circle 4 or 5 miles from the Richardson Mountains. Photo looks NE.
Richardson Mountains with help from the telephoto lens.
Looking E.
Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

The plan was to stay at the huge pullout at the Arctic Circle rest area for the night.  Lupe hadn’t been here too long, though, before it began to snow lightly.

8-17-19, 9:50 PM, 32 ºF, at the Arctic Circle – A few vehicles had come out of the N.  SPHP had been chatting with several people who stopped.  Two women had just come from Inuvik.  They’d made it over Wright Pass, but the road was treacherously muddy and slick coming up from Rock Creek.  A man made it over the pass, too, but had picked up a nail in a tire.  Had to stop every 20 km to air it up with a compressor.  He agreed that Rock Creek was a mess.

A friendly family in a motorhome were the only ones still heading N.  Still optimistic, they encouraged Lupe before continuing on their way.

The last tail lights disappeared.  Twilight fading.  Alone at the Arctic Circle!  A year ago, it had rained incessantly all night here.  Fortunately, it had been just warm enough.  A degree or two colder, and there would have been feet, not inches, of snow.  No telling how long the G6 might have been stranded.  Hadn’t happened, though.  The next morning Lupe had pressed on, eventually getting all the way to the Arctic Ocean.

Outside the G6, the snowflakes racing by in the wind were now huge.  The ground was white.  An inch already.  Snowing hard and sticking!  Almost no visibility.  Close to blizzard conditions.  If this kept up …

At the Arctic Circle, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-17-19

Links:

Next Adventure                            Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

On the Dempster Highway to Eagle Plains, the Arctic Circle & Northwest Territories, Canada (8-17-18 & 8-18-18)

Part 2 of Day 14 & Part 1 of Day 15 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-17-18, 1:20 PM, 53°F, km 224.5 – From Churchward Hill (2,871 ft.), Lupe had seen that, on the way to the Eagle Plain plateau, the Dempster Highway went N closely paralleling the Ogilvie River.  However, out on the heavily forested floodplain beyond the last of the Ogilvie Mountains, the river was seldom in sight.

Approaching the Eagle Plain plateau, the highway curved NE and soon began an impressive climb up Seven Mile Hill.  The Ogilvie River was now being left behind, but from the edge of the giant escarpment, Lupe could see it again off to the SE.  Somewhere beyond vision E of here, the Ogilvie would join forces with the Blackstone to form the Peel River.

At km 259.0, the Dempster Highway reached its high point along the SE edge of the Eagle Plain escarpment 1,000 feet above the valley.  A huge pullout was here, plus the added convenience of an outhouse.  Lupe had reached Ogilvie Ridge.

Ogilvie Ridge was a popular spot.  As many as 6 or 7 vehicles were present at any given time.  The day was still heavily overcast, and the cold S wind still blew.  People came and went quickly.  In no rush to get back out into the wind, Lupe and SPHP waited.  More than 20 minutes went by, before a moment arrived when no one else was around.

Lupe and SPHP left the G6 to experience the gray, wind-swept solitude of Ogilvie Ridge.

At Ogilvie Ridge, km 259.0 of the Dempster Highway.

The Ogilvie River valley stretched from the S to the E.  Beyond the broad, green valley, rose distant gray peaks of the Taiga Range.  Churchward Hill had provided far superior views of the Ogilvie River, but for being right along the highway, Ogilvie Ridge wasn’t a bad vantage point at all.

The Ogilvie River valley from Ogilvie Ridge. Photo looks SE.

Lupe sniffed around in the bushes, while SPHP perused several colorful displays about the geological history of the region.

Looking S from Ogilvie Ridge.

2:58 PM, 47°F – Continuing N from Ogilvie Ridge, the Dempster Highway kept climbing.  The road wound around on big hills and ridges.  This first part of the Eagle Plain plateau didn’t seem much like a plateau at all.  Deep valleys flanked barren hills, but the hills were rounded, not flat.

3:22 PM – Shortly after passing what seemed to be the highway’s highest point in this region, a small pullout appeared.  The long climb out of the Ogilvie River valley was over.  Lupe stopped for a quick sniff.  The Taiga Range of the Ogilvie Mountains could still be seen back to the SE.  Ahead, the Dempster Highway kept winding N along a series of lower hills.

Probably wouldn’t have been too hard to take a stroll up to the top of the hill the pullout was on, but Loopster didn’t do it.  Having already made it up Churchward Hill this morning, traveling in the comfort of the G6 on a windy, gray afternoon had its charms.

The now distant Taiga Range of the Ogilvie Mountains from near the high point of the Dempster Highway at the S end of the Eagle Plain plateau. Photo looks SE.
The Dempster Highway winds away across the Eagle Plain plateau. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP kept going.  The highway wound crazily around in what felt like a desperate attempt to stay up on a strip of hilly high ground.  Up and down, this way and that, on and on!

Mountains faded away.  Hills and ridges shrank.  Often only the highway could be seen.  Broad swaths of the spindly, Dr. Seuss trees of the boreal forest were clear cut away from both sides of the road.  In their place, bushes thrived.

Despite the overcast sky, the road had been dry, or nearly so, ever since Churchward Hill.  At km 335, though, suddenly the Dempster Highway was wet.  Within minutes, SPHP drove into rain.  The highway became slick and rough.  Potholes were brimming with water.

There was supposed to be a viewpoint at km 347.0 where the Richardson Mountains could be seen for the first time.  SPHP missed it, but did stop at a wet pullout that appeared a little farther on.  Lupe got out for a look around, but no mountains were in sight.  A vast, rolling plain stretched away into the fog.

On the Eagle Plain plateau.

5:38 PM, 44°F, Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, km 369.0 – It hadn’t been much farther to the first and only fuel available in the entire 369 km (229 miles) since way back at the start of the Dempster Highway.  The Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, situated on a hill, probably offers fine views on a clear day, but Lupe arrived amid rain and fog.

A required stop.
Better fuel up, SPHP!

With no clue as to how far it might be to the next gas station, a fuel stop was an absolute necessity.  Eagle Plains was a full service station.  Before SPHP could pump any gas, a relatively young man appeared.  That was his job.  Fill’er up?

Yes, please!

Asking was a mere formality.  The attendant already knew the answer.  When it’s 229 miles between opportunities, does anyone skimp?  Way up here in the Yukon, it’s a helluva walk back to civilization.  Conceivable that stroll might get a mite chilly, too, any time of year.

SPHP didn’t bother asking the price.  Whatever it was, one just paid it, and felt fortunate to have the opportunity to do so.  The receipt would reveal what a fabulous bargain SPHP had just made.

31.52 liters at $1.65 Canadian per liter came to $52.00 Canadian.  That was the same as $39.80 US for 8.328 gallons, or $4.78 US per gallon at the current exchange rate.

Eh, not much worse than going to California, Looper!

Loop spotted a muster point nearby.  Was that a requirement?  SPHP didn’t know.  No one else was mustering, but the American Dingo put in an appearance, just in case.

Nothing happened, though.  Nobody came to muster with her, or even say what all the mustering was supposed to be about.  Maybe it had been a long summer?  Perhaps the local Canadians were sick and tired of mustering on these endless, blistering hot August days?

Loop mustering on yet another baking hot Eagle Plains summer day.

However, Loop didn’t get totally ignored in Eagle Plains.  A doorman, snappily dressed all in black, came prancing jauntily over from the Eagle Plains Hotel.  When he didn’t welcome the Carolina Dog to Eagle Plains, but instead leapt right up onto the G6, and started demanding rewards merely for the privilege of parking in the muddy parking lot, Lupe was pretty put out.  The were-puppy appeared and barked ferociously at him.  Of all the nerve!

Since Eagle Plains was the only civilized spot for such a long distance, SPHP felt that even if the doorman’s demands were outrageous, perhaps it was best to at least toss him a few raisins and cashews.  The doorman was evidently satisfied.  He eventually flew off, defusing the whole Dingo/doorman confrontation.

Dressed all in black, the Eagle Plains doorman comes over from the hotel to demand payment for the privilege of parking in the parking lot.
Pretty cheeky to hop right up on a G6 defended by a ferocious were-puppy, but it paid off! SPHP gave in, and bought him off with raisins and cashews.

The Dempster Highway crosses the Eagle River 9 km N of Eagle Plains.  Despite its soaring name, the river wasn’t particularly inspiring.  Murky brown water in what amounted to a big ditch.  Since it was raining, the Eagle River hardly seemed worth stopping for.  SPHP paused on the bridge, but only long enough for Lupe to get a look from the G6.

Crossing the Eagle River.
The Eagle River was more of a ditch full of muddy water than a scenic highlight.

6:35 PM, 44°F, km 405.5 – Other than the commemorative sign, there wasn’t much more to see here than at the Eagle River.  Nevertheless, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back!  Lupe had reached the Arctic Circle again for the first time in nearly a year.  It was a glorious moment!  A moment destined to be prolonged.

The Arctic Circle featured a huge parking area with two entrances off the Dalton Highway.  Two man-made attractions sat along the border of the muddy lot – the commemorative sign, and an outhouse.  Of course, the big attraction was the invisible one, the unseen Arctic Circle itself.  This was the edge of the true Arctic!  Everything to the N was part of the fabled frozen land of the Midnight Sun.

Midnight Sun?  The Carolina Dog hadn’t seen the sun all day.  Rain, wind, fog!  Beneath a leaden sky, it was darker and seemed later than it really was.  Who knew what lay ahead?  The highway had been greasy slick coming up out of the Eagle River valley.  Rough and full of potholes after that.  Maybe this was far enough?  Maybe Loop ought to spend the night right here at the Arctic Circle?

As the evening wore on, dense fog turned the world a featureless gray.  The rain increased in intensity.  Traffic ceased.  The windows fogged over.  Dinner.  A warm blankie.  To the steady beat of rain on the roof, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood settled in for a snooze.

After nearly a year long absence, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the true Arctic.
One of the displays – the most interesting one with a map.
At the start of the Land of the Midnight Sun.
Home for the night. The G6 did get moved farther from the sign, in case anyone else happened by.

8-18-18, 4:17 AM, km 405.5, the Arctic Circle – Light out, kind of.  Still raining, still foggy.  The growing light did nothing to dispel the gloom.  Every time SPHP had woken up, it had been raining, not lightly, but steady.  How much had fallen in the past 10 hours?  Half an inch an hour, easy.  Maybe double that.  A regular monsoon!

What was the Dempster going to be like?  A sea of mud?  Maybe the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood wasn’t going any farther?  Maybe she was stuck here, unable even to retreat?  The poor G6 wasn’t exactly a Jeep, even if SPHP treated it like one.

Nothing to do about it now, though, except sit tight.  The G6 wasn’t going anywhere.  Not until SPHP saw similar vehicles out on the Dempster.  Better safe here than sunk to the axles somewhere in the literal middle of nowhere.

5:54 AM – Brighter out, still socked in with fog, but the rain had finally let up.  Only a light mist now.  A few other vehicles had spent the night here.  None had budged yet.  Not a hint of activity.  Certainly none on the highway.  Lupe needed out.  She made a quick tour of the area.  From close to the commemorative sign, a couple of picnic tables sat in a flat area down an embankment.  Bet those get a lot of use!

The rain started in again.  Back to the G6!  May as well snooze some more.  “Well-rested” was the predicted future state of things.

The new day bore an uncanny resemblance to the old.
The Arctic Circle picnic area was deserted. SPHP suspected this was its natural state.
Back to Dingo Dreamland.

9:45 AM – Rain, rain, rain!  Wind, too.  It hadn’t rained all the time, but did more often than not.  A flurry of activity had occurred around 9:00 AM, though.  Two big white pick-up trucks started it off, charging by out on the Dempster Highway around 8:40 AM.  A green van then appeared out of the N sending up a gigantic spray as it encountered long chains of pothole lakes upon the road.

Other vehicles came and went.  People pulled in to use the rest room, or take a look at the commemorative sign.  None of their vehicles, however, were as small and pathetic as the intrepid G6.  The wait continued.

You know, SPHP, if you’ve got such a thing for invisible circles, maybe we could try the Tropic of Cancer next time around?

11:28 AM, 44°F – Alright!  Still rainy, still foggy, but it must be OK out there.  After a lull, a parade of vehicles had come by.  Most were huge pickups, or other massive high-clearance 4WD’s of one sort or another.  However, a number of sport utility vehicles, a small tour bus, and even a motor home had been by, too.  And just lately, a couple of passenger cars and two motorcycles.

A guy came along on a bicycle, and disappeared over the embankment down toward the picnic tables.  That was it!  The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way.  Going N, too, not S!

It was slow going, but the Dempster Highway wasn’t nearly as muddy as SPHP had feared, as long as one stayed away from the shoulders.  The road was rough, though, and full of potholes, each an abyss of unknown depth.  The G6 crept along enduring one jarring jolt and drenching spray of dirty water after another, but Lupe was on move again.

There were places where the road was much smoother, pothole free, but they didn’t last long.  Amazingly, only 10 minutes from the Arctic Circle, SPHP drove out of the rain.  The windshield wipers had to be kept on to sweep away the filthy water still spraying up from the road.  However, the fog had lifted a little, and it was possible to see.

Hills were ahead.  Lupe was getting closer to the Richardson Mountains.  The land was changing.  What could be seen below the cloud cover was increasingly beautiful.

Loop out on a nice smooth stretch of highway after SPHP drove out of the rain.
Foothills of the Richardson Mountains are ahead. The highway stayed W of them.
The land became more beautiful as Lupe continued N.

12:38 PM, km 445.8 at the Rock River campground – After following a rip-roaring creek down to a low forested area, Lupe reached the Rock River campground at a bend in the Dempster Highway.  As SPHP read the map, the campground was not actually on the Rock River, but on White Fox Creek, a major tributary.

It had taken an hour to drive 40 km (25 miles) to get here from the Arctic Circle.  The campground, though open, was deserted.  Time for lunch, and this appeared to be a great spot for a break from the rough ride N.  While SPHP prepared a meal, Loopster made a thrilling discovery.  This Arctic forest was full of squirrels!

So, Rock River campground became an instant hit.  After lunch, Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around the entire campground loop.  Like all the other streams that had been seen from the highway on the drive here, White Fox Creek was full bank to bank, practically at flood stage.

Lupe was more interested in sniffing eagerly from one promising tree to the next.  To her everlasting delight, she frequently found a bundle of joy chattering away high above her.  For a deserted campground, between the American Dingo and the squirrels, Rock River was a noisy place.

Relaxing at Rock River campground shortly before striking it rich with squirrels.
White Fox Creek was running high, full bank to bank.

2:19 PM, 48°F – No doubt the Carolina Dog would have preferred to stay at the Rock River campground a while longer to stake her claim in the great 2018 Yukon Squirrel Rush.  And perhaps that would have been the better choice, but Lupe’s journey N continued.

Even before reaching the Rock River campground, the highway had been heading N along the W flank of the Richardson Mountains.  Sadly, the mountains were completely lost in the clouds.  Loopster had already gone by Mount Hare (4,070 ft.) without even seeing it.

Climbing out of the White Fox Creek valley, the Dempster Highway came to a high, rolling prairie.  Large hills and ridges were to the NW, the still unseen Richardson Mountains to the E.  This was a gorgeous area!

N of the Rock Creek campground, the Dempster Highway led to a gorgeous rolling prairie with big hills and ridges to the NW. Photo looks NNW.
The Richardson Mountains lie hidden to the R (E) of the highway. Photo looks NE.

Lupe had a few peakbagging candidates in the Richardson Mountains along in here, but none were worth an attempt given the weather.  No point in putting out any big effort just to see nothing, and risk getting lost in the fog.  Maybe the weather would be better on the return trip?  Lupe could do her peakbagging then, SPHP reasoned.

A typical stretch of the Dempster Highway W of the Richardson Mountains.

Onward!  The Dempster Highway started curving NE and climbing.  Up, up!  Views of the beautiful highlands became more spectacular, faded to gray, then vanished.  The road wound ever higher past hillsides torn up during recent road construction.  The highway leveled out.  A parking lot appeared on the S side of the road.  SPHP stopped.

3:11 PM, km 465.0 – Outside the G6, dense fog raced by driven onward by a 40 mph gale roaring out of the W.  An uninviting, unforgiving world.  This was it!  Wright Pass (3,133 ft.), end of the Yukon Territory!

Incredibly, E of Wright Pass was an even more remote and mysterious land.  A land neither Lupe nor SPHP had ever seen, or even been close to, before.  Abandoning the G6, buffeted by the chill wind, together Loop and SPHP walked to the edge of the unknown to experience, for the first time, the Northwest Territories.

When she got there, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood couldn’t see a thing.

At Wright Pass, border of the Yukon Territory and Northwest Territories, Canada 8-18-18

Links:

Next Adventure                      Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue Guide

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-17-17)

Day 18 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:18 AM – Light out, sort of.  Lupe sniffed around near the G6 in a thick fog.  It had rained bunches yesterday evening and most of the night.  No rain now, just this gray gloom.  The air was dead calm.  Little hope existed that conditions would change anytime soon.  May as well snooze a few more hours.

8:44 AM – Awake again.  The Carolina Dog was starting the morning off right, barking at a squirrel in the spruce trees nearby.  Still foggy, but the fog was thin enough now so that a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.  Slightly encouraging, but nothing to get excited about yet.

In the meantime, why not get a photo of Looper by the big red metal gate she’d gone by yesterday to start her fabulous adventure to Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)?  As long as the fog persisted, there wasn’t much else to do anyway.  SPHP joined Lupe outside the G6.

The foggy morning after climbing Caribou Mountain, Lupe stands near the red metal gate she’d gone past yesterday to start that adventure. The G6 had been, and still was, parked close by. This gate provides access to the Alaska oil pipeline service road, and is located on the W side of the Dalton Highway about a mile S of the Kanuti River. Photo looks W.

Lupe was still standing next to the red gate, when suddenly the sky brightened so much it actually seemed sunny out.  Overhead, the fog was tinged with blue!  Maybe this was only a ground fog that would burn off before long?

9:31 AM – Well, well!  It was true!  The early morning’s gloom had only been a ground fog after all.  First, a tiny patch of blue sky appeared.  It had spread with incredible speed.  Within only 15 minutes, 80% of the sky was clear and bright.  Sort of amazing to watch!  This Arctic weather was so different from back home.  Suddenly, things were looking up for Loopster!  Adventure was back in today’s forecast now!

The fog had only been a ground fog. The morning sun was burning it away at a tremendous pace. Suddenly, adventure was in today’s forecast for Lupe!

And then, unbelievably, the whole process reversed itself.  The sun had only been shining on the dewy tundra for a few minutes, when the additional warmth caused moisture from last night’s rain to evaporate, making the air more humid again.  As quickly as the fog had burned away, it reformed.  Dense fog engulfed the land again.  The sun no longer existed.

Huh.  Weird.  Really strange.  Lupe had never seen anything quite like that before.  Now what?

Apparently anything at all might happen today.  Since Lupe had finished the adventures planned for around here, she might as well continue N.  She would just have to be flexible, and see how things worked out.

The fog and sun continued their battle as SPHP drove N.  Lupe’s first stop was at an important landmark, one that was even more significant since Lupe had recently become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago.  At milepost 115.5 on the Dalton Highway, Lupe reached the Arctic Circle.

Lupe reaches the Arctic Circle at milepost 115.5 along the Dalton Highway. She had been here in 2016, too, but this time she arrived as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

The sun had been winning its struggle with the fog, so Lupe and SPHP stuck around at the Arctic Circle for a while.  There was both a picnic ground and campground here.  SPHP used one of the picnic tables to prepare a meal.  Meanwhile, Lupe was entertained barking at squirrels in the forest.

Once the meal was consumed, Lupe continued N on the Dalton Highway.  It felt so incredible to be back in the Arctic again!  The drive through mile after mile of Arctic wilderness was like a dream.  Loop stopped briefly at Gobbler’s Knob (milepost 132) for a view of the Brooks Range, which she was rapidly approaching.

Even before reaching milepost 160, Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.) came into view.  It hadn’t rained at all on Loop yet this morning, but a shower had passed through here not long before.  The pavement was all wet.  Conditions were admittedly a bit iffy, and it was already getting a little late in the day for starting such a big adventure, but maybe Lupe could still climb Cathedral Mountain?

Only one person who uses Peakbagger.com had ever climbed Cathedral Mountain, and that had been more than 22 years ago.  Richard Carey had been there on 7-29-95.  Fortunately, Carey had written a concise trip report full of useful information.  Carey had mentioned a small pullout with room for only one or two cars at about milepost 168.5.  Nearing the area, SPHP slowed down to look for it.

SPHP didn’t see any small pullout, but there was a really large gravel pullout on the NW side of the Dalton Highway about where Carey had said to look.  Maybe things had changed in 22 years?  Certainly possible.  SPHP parked the G6.  The American Dingo shot out eager for action.  Things looked a bit iffy.  Cathedral Mountain was right across the Dalton Highway from here, but the sky overhead was looking mighty gray.

Cathedral Mountain from the Dalton Highway near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SE.

All was not gloom and doom, however.  A mix of blue sky and puffy clouds was off to the SW, and seemed to be heading this way.  Loop and SPHP were both in favor of taking a chance on Cathedral Mountain.  SPHP got everything ready, and the American Dingo set out on her next big adventure.  (1:56 PM, 53°F)

Water could be heard on the SE side of the Dalton Highway.  A stream was hidden over there in the forest.  By the looks of the terrain, the stream would pass under the highway a short distance back to the SW.  It would be nice to avoid a creek crossing.  Lupe followed the highway SW until she was past where the stream went under it, before turning S and plunging into the forest.

Loopster on the Dalton Highway somewhere near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SW.

Lupe immediately found herself in a densely packed spruce forest on thick, spongy tundra.  Tall, slender bushes were in the mix, too.  This was exciting stuff for the Carolina Dog!  Lupe ran sniffing and exploring, but was careful not to stray too far from SPHP.

Of course, the thick vegetation was still wet from last night’s rains and the recent shower in this area.  Before long, Lupe and SPHP were both soaking wet, too.  Not unexpected.  Onward!

Lupe was immediately impressed with the dense forest off the Dalton Highway. She ran this way and that, excitedly sniffing and exploring.

From the Dalton Highway, a high barren ridge had been visible to the S well above tree line.  That ridge appeared to be in the vicinity of Richard Carey’s successful line of ascent described in his trip report, so Loop needed to get up there.  The ridge couldn’t be seen from down in the dense forest, but Loop and SPHP headed in its general direction.

Before long, water could be heard again.  Another stream!  Lupe reached it, and found the stream wider and deeper than could be readily forded.  Both banks were lined with dense stands of tall bushes.  Just getting in or out of the stream was an issue, never mind across it.  No way!  Maybe if Loop continued upstream far enough there would be a better spot?  The stream might even bend off to the SW, in which case the Carolina Dog wouldn’t even need to cross it.

The terrain down by the stream was a difficult trek.  Too many bushes amid jumbled rocks.  Loop and SPHP turned E to climb onto a low ridge above the creek valley.  This ridge headed SE, which wasn’t the really the direction Lupe needed to go, but would be fine for a little way.  Climbing up onto and moving around on the ridge wasn’t all that easy, either.  Spongy tundra made each step more difficult.  While the spruce trees weren’t all that big, they were close together.

Lupe came to a few spots where the forest wasn’t so dense.  The high barren ridge she needed to get to could then be seen to the S.  Loop could also see farther up the creek valley.  The news wasn’t good.  The valley was turning SE instead of SW.  Sooner or later, Lupe was going to have to find a way across that darn stream.

A view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to from a rare open spot in the forest. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
While SPHP fiddled around with maps worrying about streams and ridges and routes and terrain, Lupe was having a grand time in the forest on her first adventure N of the Arctic Circle since she became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!
Another view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to (Center) from a little farther along in the forest. Lupe eventually was able to climb up the closer hill (L of Center), which led her to the E (L) end of the higher ridge. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP continued SE gaining elevation gradually on the low ridge for a while longer.  Finally, the time came to see how much of a problem it was going to be to get across the creek up here.  Lupe went SSW, leaving the ridge to look for the stream.

The stream wasn’t far away.  This time the news was unexpectedly good.  The stream was rushing along, but much smaller up here, only 3 feet wide and not very deep.  Easy squeezy!  SPHP swung across it with the help of an overhanging branch.  Lupe simply leapt across.

One problem solved.  However, an hour had already shot by since leaving the Dalton Highway.  Puppy, ho!  Time to get up on that barren ridge.

Lupe reaches the stream again 0.5 mile upstream of where she had first come to it. The news was good this time. The stream was much smaller up here than it had been down below. Lupe could easily leap across it.

Once beyond the stream, Loop headed S gaining elevation.  The barren ridge she was aiming for was soon in sight ahead.  The climb got steadily steeper and steeper.  Progress seemed slow.

Another big hill was closer than the barren ridge Lupe was heading for.  It looked like it might connect to the barren ridge much higher up than where the Carolina Dog was now.  Maybe Loop should climb this hill?  Getting above all the trees, bushes, and spongy tundra would be a huge help.  Seemed to make sense.  Yeah, Loop was going to try this closer hill instead of trudging through this difficult stuff all the way to the base of the barren ridge.

The climb up the nearer hill was quite steep.  The trees soon thinned out, though scattered trees and plenty of bushes remained for a while.  The hill narrowed.  Higher up, Looper started coming to rock outcroppings.  The rock formations were small, only 10 or 20 feet high.  The American Dingo always found a way around them, though they sometimes slowed progress.  Before she’d climbed terribly far, Lupe was beginning to get views of the Koyukuk River.

Only partway up the first big hill Lupe climbed she started getting views of the Koyukuk River. Photo looks N.
Rain showers are in progress beyond the Koyukuk River. Photo looks NW.

After what seemed like a long climb, Lupe managed to reached the top of the hill.  She found that this wasn’t a separate hill at all.  Loop was on a small level ridge protruding N from the rest of Cathedral Mountain.  There were no trees here, although some bushes were around.  Most of the ridge was covered with tundra and small rock outcroppings.  Lupe had plenty of room to move around, and the views were the best yet.

Loop had expended so much energy having a blast down in the forest, that she was ready for a rest break.  SPHP concurred.

Lupe curls up for a rest upon reaching the ridgeline at the top of the first big hill she’d just climbed. Her peakbagging goal, the summit of Cathedral Mountain, is beyond her at Center. Photo looks E.
Lupe relaxes near the end of the small ridge. The Koyukuk River is in view. Photo looks N.
Koyukuk River from the far end of the ridge. The Dalton Highway is on the near side of the river. Photo looks N.

While Loop rested, SPHP studied the topo map and read Richard Carey’s trip report again.  Carey hadn’t mentioned anything about a stream crossing.  As soon as Lupe had come to the stream, SPHP had suspected that she hadn’t started from the exact same place as Carey.

The topo map concurred.  It seemed fairly certain Lupe had started out about a mile farther NE on the Dalton Highway than Carey had.  Maybe more like at milepost 169.5 than 168.5.  Eh, whatever.  Looper must have started from just N of the streams shown in Section 12, and had left the Dalton Highway between them.  If the American Dingo had only gone a little farther SW on the highway before leaving it, she would have completely avoided both streams.

This little ridge Lupe was on right now was between the “A” and “L” at the end of “Cathedral” on the map.  The barren ridge Lupe was trying to get to was Carey’s “small hill” in the 2,500 ft. contour ENE of High Point 2545.  Carey had passed a little S of this hill on his way E from the “low saddle”, which couldn’t be seen from here.  All Loopster had to do now was gain the remaining 200+ feet of elevation required to reach the top of the barren ridge.  She would then be in position to intercept Carey’s route the rest of the way.

Simple enough.  The small ridge Lupe was already on connected directly to the slope leading up to E end of the barren ridge.  Best get on with it.  It had taken SPHP two hours just to get this far, and it was still a long way to the top of Cathedral Mountain.  The weather might put an end to things at any time.  Loop had been lucky so far, but rain showers were always in sight not terribly far away.

The ridge Lupe is on leads straight to the E end of the barren ridge she has been trying to get to all this time (Center). The top of the barren ridge is 200+ feet of elevation gain from here. Photo looks SSW.

Reaching the top of the barren ridge seemed to require more like 250 feet of elevation gain than 200 feet.  The upper slope was surprisingly steep.  Lupe had no problems, but SPHP was grasping for anything at all to hang onto, which wasn’t much.  Nevertheless, both Loop and SPHP made it to the top.

For the first time, Lupe could now see territory S of Cathedral Mountain.  A check of the topo map matched up with what Loop was seeing exactly as expected.  No doubt at all where she was now.

Lupe finally reaches the top of the barren ridge. Both the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (Center) and the slightly lower N summit (L) are in sight. Photo looks E.
Having reached the top of the barren ridge, Lupe could now see territory on the other side of Cathedral Mountain. The Dalton Highway is in view passing through low ground dotted with small lakes. Lake 1035 is the larger lake on the L. Photo looks SW.
The “low saddle” Carey had gone through on his ascent is seen between Lupe and the ridge at Center, which is High Point 2545. Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) is the multi-peaked mountain seen faintly beyond High Point 2545. Photo looks WSW.

From the barren ridge, Lupe could now join up with Carey’s route by heading SE toward an upper saddle at 2,750+ feet elevation.  Lupe had a good view of this upper saddle, though the camera produced a lousy one due to moisture on the lens.  A brief rain shower was sweeping over the area as the Carolina Dog was about to continue on again.

The upper 2,750+ ft. saddle (Center) from the barren ridge. Not such a hot shot due to a rain shower in progress, but still shows the overall lay of the terrain quite well. Lupe was heading for this upper saddle next. Photo looks SE.

The rain shower didn’t last long and was of no consequence.  Lupe lost a bit of elevation leaving the barren ridge for the upper saddle, but was soon regaining it traversing a steep slope well below a rocky ridgeline.  The slope was surprisingly tough going – slanty with minor drop offs, spongy tundra, and lots of bushes.  Lupe finally climbed higher up on the slope close to the lower rocks, and things were a bit better up here.

Looking back on the way to the upper saddle. High Point 2545 is the hill L of Center. Beyond it and a little more to the L is Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.). The barren ridge Lupe had just left is on the R. The low saddle Carey had crossed is at Center. Photo looks W.
Lupe approaches the upper saddle. The rain shower has moved on. Photo looks SE.
Looking back again from near the upper saddle. High Point 2545 is in the foreground at Center. The low saddle is next to it on the R. Twelvemile Mountain is in the distance beyond the Koyukuk River on the L. Photo looks W.

Lupe passed slightly above and to the N of the upper saddle.  She was now heading E on the S side of Cathedral Mountain.  Ahead was another even slightly higher saddle at 2,800+ feet elevation.  On the S side of this highest saddle, High Point 2955 was in view.

Lupe at the N end of the upper saddle. An even higher saddle at 2,800+ ft. elevation is in view on the R along with High Point 2955. Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline is on the L. Photo looks SE.

From here, Carey had continued E staying somewhat below and to the S of Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline.  The top of the ridgeline was to be avoided, since it was so rocky and jagged.  Actually, the way SPHP read it, Carey had probably bypassed this upper saddle staying quite a bit higher and closer to the ridgeline than where Loop was now.

That didn’t matter.  Lupe could easily angle up nearer the ridgeline as she kept going E.  She headed toward a big rock fairly high on the slope N of the 2,800+ foot saddle.

From here Lupe would head for the highest big rock seen R of Center. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe reaches the big rock on the slope N of the highest 2,800+ ft. saddle. The 2,750+ ft. upper saddle is in view on the R. The low saddle Carey had come though is at far R well beyond it. Twelvemile Mountain is in the distance on the R. Photo looks WSW.

From the big rock, Lupe continued E, slowly gaining elevation.  At first, this route was pretty easy.  However, the slope kept steepening.  As the tundra thinned out, Loop was more and more frequently traversing loose scree slopes.

Lupe continues E on Cathedral Mountain’s S slope not too far below the ridgeline. It was still easy going along in here. Photo looks WNW.
Making progress. Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is now in view on the R. Photo looks E.
The slope kept getting steeper as Lupe proceeded E. Vegetation thinned out and Loop began encountering more scree. Photo looks E.

For quite a long way, Lupe could see part of Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge ahead.  A long slope on this side of it slanted steeply up to the N leading to the still unseen summit.  If Lupe could get over to that slope, SPHP was pretty certain she stood a good chance of reaching Cathedral Mountain’s summit, provided it could be reached without any technical climbing.  Carey hadn’t mentioned any.

However, it was still in question whether or not it would be possible to get over there.  The slope Loop was on kept getting steeper, and SPHP feared the Carolina Dog was going to come to an impassable point.  The views immediately below Lupe’s position were becoming incredible, and a bit intimidating.  SPHP quit looking down.

The mountain presented a series of minor “horizons” coming down the S slope that Lupe couldn’t see beyond until she got to them.  One by one she crossed them going E, but another always appeared a little farther on.  SPHP kept wondering if Loop was too high or low on the mountain?  The answer wasn’t obvious.  The Carolina Dog just kept going.

Finally, a much larger ragged line of rock appeared extending down the S slope from Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline.  What would Lupe find there?  Would she be able to get beyond it?  More to the point, could SPHP get beyond it?  Being able to turn that corner was critical to success.  Carey had done it, but he had genuine mountaineering experience.

Lupe needed to reach the greenish slope below Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge seen on the R. That slope goes N (L) right up to the summit. Carey had done it, but he had real mountaineering experience. The line of rocks coming down from the ridgeline ahead on the L made it questionable whether SPHP could get over there. Photo looks ENE.
Lupe was feeling confident, even if SPHP had doubts. Just have to be able to turn this last corner! Photo looks ENE.

About the time Lupe reached the rocky spine coming down from the main ridgeline, a second rain shower appeared heading straight this way.  SPHP donned the rain poncho.  Once again, Lupe got wet, SPHP didn’t, and the shower passed by fairly quickly without putting a serious damper on things.

A second rain shower swept over Loop and SPHP at the hardest part of the climb up Cathedral Mountain, but fortunately didn’t last long before sailing away. Photo looks back to the SW.

Loop and SPHP had to down climb a bit to get around the rocky spine, but succeeded in getting by it. The worst part of the trek to Cathedral Mountain’s summit was now behind the American Dingo!  If the summit wasn’t technical, she was going to get there.  That wouldn’t be known until she climbed hundreds of feet up the steep scree slope ahead.

After getting by the rocky spine, Lupe still faced a long steep climb up to the ridgeline where she expected to find Cathedral Mountain’s summit. Photo looks NE.

Up, up, up!  Steep.  Real steep, but Lupe was finally approaching the ridgeline.  Big rock formations sat atop much of it, but Lupe could keep progressing E easily enough staying a bit below them.  The summit couldn’t be too far away!

After a long climb up the really steep scree slope, Lupe sits among rocks only slightly below Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline. The summit is just beyond the high point in sunshine on the R. Photo looks ENE.
Near the top of the ridge not too far W of the summit. Lupe had come up the slope on the L. Photo looks WSW.
A look at Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

A little W of the mountain’s true summit, Lupe reached the top of the main E/W ridgeline.  Now she could see in almost every direction.  The views were stupendous!  So, so beautiful!

Right up on top of the main E/W ridge now. Photo looks WSW.
A rain shower sweeps through territory between Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) (L) and the Koyukuk River. Photo looks W.
Cathedral Mountain’s N summit from the main E/W ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.
The Koyukuk River and Cathedral Mountain’s slightly lower N summit. Photo looks N.

An easy stroll E along the main ridgeline brought Lupe to the summit of Cathedral Mountain.  Here she found two 10 foot high knobs of rock.  They were separated by 12 to 15 feet of level ground covered with vegetation.  The E knob appeared clearly higher by a foot or two.  Neither of the knobs was very large on top, but there was room for Loop to sit or stand comfortably.

Lupe scrambled up onto the higher E knob first.  She found a small cairn on top protecting two tin cans that were painted red.  The larger can was turned upside down over the smaller one to shield it from the weather.  The American Dingo had made it!  Despite SPHP’s fears and doubts near the end of the journey, she sat calmly and confidently at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.)!

Lupe sits by the cairn at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain! Photo looks ENE.
Loop on top of Cathedral Mountain. The red tin can protecting a smaller one inside containing a registry is in view as Loop found it. Photo looks ENE.
Cathedral Mountain was the first mountain N of the Arctic Circle that Lupe climbed after becoming the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood by climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago. Photo looks ENE.

So was there a registry inside the smaller tin can?  Yes, there was!  Inside was a plastic bag containing a pencil and a small notebook serving as a registry.  A surprising number of entries were contained in it.  Far more people had been up on Cathedral Mountain than SPHP would ever have expected.

Inside the front cover was something amazing.  The notebook was in such good condition, it was hard to believe it was true.  Richard Carey himself had brought this very notebook to the top of Cathedral Mountain more than 22 years ago!  His was the first entry!

The notebook serving as a registry was in such great condition it was hard to believe Richard Carey had placed it up here more than 22 years ago. Inside the front cover, his was the very first entry.

SPHP entered Lupe’s name in the registry to make her ascent official.  Lupe received lots of praise for her valiant efforts to get here, and SPHP shook her sweet paw in congratulations.  SPHP recited how Cathedral Mountain was her 3rd summit ever N of the Arctic Circle and 1st of 2017, what memorable adventures each ascent had been, and how splendid each peak was!

Loop was pretty happy with all the richly deserved attention.  Of course, the notebook and pencil went back in the plastic bag and inside the little red tin can.  Everything got put back exactly as Lupe had found it.

Then, even though the day was getting so late it made SPHP nervous considering how long it had taken to get here, it was time to relax a bit up on Cathedral Mountain.  Picture time!  These were views Loop and SPHP would never want to forget.

Cathedral Mountain’s N summit with the Koyukuk River in the background. Photo looks NNE.
A rain shower sweeps over the Koyukuk River valley. Photo looks NNW.
Looking down on High Point 2955 in the foreground. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is on the R in shadow. Photo looks ESE.
Loopster up on the slightly lower W knob in competition for the title of true summit of Cathedral Mountain. Photo looks WSW.
On the W knob, only a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks W.
Evening sunlight filters through clouds and rain showers down onto the Koyukuk River. Photo looks NW.
Looking NNE farther up the Koyukuk River valley. Cathedral Mountain’s N summit is in the foreground. Photo taken with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Looking WSW over part of Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridge with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) (Center) in evening sunlight. Photo looks W.

After nearly 40 minutes at the top of Cathedral Mountain, the sad moment of departure drew near.  What a magnificent peak!  Lupe climbed up on top of the summit’s W knob one more time.

Before departing, Lupe scrambled up on the W knob one more time. Photo looks E.
Loop’s last moments atop Cathedral Mountain. Photo looks E.

The return trip was marvelous!  It had seemed to SPHP that maybe Loop had been too low for too long on the ascent.  At times, things had looked easier higher up.  Of course, there was a lot of rock along the top of the ridgeline.  Maybe it wasn’t possible to stay so high, but on the way back, Loopster was going to try.

Staying high worked.  This was a faster route with amazing views.  Lupe was eventually forced down off the ridgeline, but not until she was getting close to the highest saddle N of High Point 2955.

Heading down, but staying high along the main ridgeline as long as possible. This was a better route than the way Lupe had come up. Twelvemile Mountain is on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Loop almost always had to stay on the S side of the main E/W ridgeline when forced to make a choice. The N side was usually cliffy. That wasn’t always true. Here she’s on the N side of the mountain with a fantastic view of the Koyukuk River. Photo looks N.
Done with the main ridge and descending to the highest saddle. High Point 2955 is on the L. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe explores the highest saddle. Photo looks WSW.

Instead of returning to the top of the barren ridge on the way back, Lupe skirted it to the S as Richard Carey had done.  She passed over the low saddle NE of High Point 2545 retracing Carey’s route.  She continued W along the mountainside a little beyond the saddle before turning N and descending between two rounded bald hills.

Lupe with a grand view of the Koyukuk River from the W end of the low saddle Richard Carey had crossed N of High Point 2545. Photo looks N.

Lupe’s route below the bald hills was steep, but was full of thick tundra, which made it soft and easy.  Going up here would have been tough, but Loop made rapid progress down the slope.  She never did have to cross a stream, although she did cross a long stretch of boggy terrain on a much more gentle slope nearing the Dalton Highway.

The light was almost gone by the time Lupe made it back to the Dalton Highway.  A 0.25 mile gradual uphill trek remained to Alpo and a warm blankie inside the G6.  What a wonderful day Cathedral Mountain had been!  (11:00 PM)

The Koyukuk River from the low saddle near day’s end, Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-17-17

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Dingo of the Midnight Sun – Crossing the Yukon River, Finger Mountain & The Arctic Circle (8-13-16)

Day 14 & Day 15 (Part 1) of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Rain, rain, rain!  It had been raining most of the night, and it was raining now, harder than at any time yesterday.  It was so early, Lupe was still conked out.  Dark clouds hid the mountains and the Worthington Glacier, where Lupe had such a great adventure yesterday.

Clearly, the Carolina Dog’s luck at the Worthington Glacier wasn’t going to be repeated again today anywhere near the S Alaskan coast.  A week of rain was in the forecast.  Time to head inland.  Maybe it wasn’t so wet there?  As soon as the G6 was ready, Lupe and SPHP drove N on the Richardson Highway, hoping to drive out of the weather before reaching Glennallen.

About 10 miles before even reaching Glennallen, SPHP pulled into the parking lot for the Wrangell – St. Elias National Park & Preserve visitor center.  It was still raining, but not as hard as before.  The clouds weren’t as dark, either, although they still blanketed the entire sky.  Lupe waited in the G6, while SPHP went into the visitor center to see if they had a near term weather forecast for this part of Alaska.

SPHP interrupted three idle rangers chatting among themselves behind the information desk.  Did they have a weather forecast?  Rain for the next 10 days, and more after that, responded a bored female ranger.  Alaska’s best days of the summer of 2016 were history now.  It was just going to get colder and darker, she said.  What about farther N, did they have a forecast for Fairbanks?  Even colder and darker, there she replied.

SPHP returned to Lupe in the G6.  Sorry about the wait, Loop!  That was a complete waste of time.  No specifics, other than more rain is expected.  The ranger didn’t care, and knew next to nothing.  Any lame brain would know that it would get colder and darker as summer fades to autumn in Alaska.  Maybe we will find out something in Glennallen.

Hah, fat chance!  At the Glennallen visitor center at the intersection of the Richardson and Glenn Highways, the story was almost the same.  At least the lady at the information desk exhibited some energy and interest, but all she said was that it was raining in the entire state of Alaska, and had been rainy for weeks.  She too, expected more rain, but had zero specifics.  What about the weather in Fairbanks?  Yup, raining there too, she insisted.

Gah, she had no clue either!  Alaska is a vast territory.  It was hardly possible it was raining in the whole state.  Still, it left SPHP wondering what to do.  Should Lupe go farther N hoping to find better weather, hang around here for who knew how many days waiting for the rain to stop, or just give up on Alaska all together, and go back to Canada and the Yukon?

Leaving Alaska now would be a shame!  Lupe had come all this way, and had so many Alaskan adventures on her list of possibilities!  SPHP left the building pondering the situation.  A man followed SPHP outside.

The man introduced himself as the owner of Alaskan Quest, based in Fairbanks.  His name was Kent Kaiser.  He had overheard the conversation.  Kent said he had just come from Fairbanks.  Although it had been unusually rainy this summer there, it was sunny when he left Fairbanks this morning.  Better yet, 10 more days of sun were in the forecast!  SPHP thanked Kent for the tip.

It was all SPHP needed to hear.  Loopster, good news!  You’re heading N!  After gassing up the G6, Lupe and SPHP continued N on the Richardson Highway.

The weather didn’t improve.  The farther N Lupe got, the harder it rained, and the darker the clouds became.  Not a speck of blue sky appeared anywhere.  Lupe went past high mountains, a forlorn, dreary-looking Summit Lake, and big rivers.  Some of the creeks were out of their banks.  SPHP began to wonder.

Looking W from the Richardson Highway N of Glennallen.
Looking W from the Richardson Highway N of Glennallen.

Eventually, though, conditions did improve.  The rain slackened, then quit.  A tiny speck of blue appeared in the sky to the N.  The blue spread, as Lupe and SPHP neared Delta Junction.  By the time Lupe and SPHP stopped at a McDonald’s in North Pole to share a couple of cheeseburgers, a glorious pale blue sky stretched from horizon to horizon.

Lupe and SPHP reached Fairbanks, which turned out to be an attractive city.  Fairbanks wasn’t Lupe’s actual destination, however.  The decision to come N meant she was going all the way to her most northern peakbagging objectives.  As far N as Lupe was already, she wasn’t even close to them yet.

It was already evening, as Lupe left Fairbanks heading NE on the Steese Highway.  Less than 15 minutes later, at Fox, SPHP turned N on the Elliot Highway.  Traffic faded away to almost nothing.  The Elliot Highway was paved and in great shape.  It went through densely forested territory, repeatedly climbing high ridges only to descend into successive big valleys farther N.

By the time the sun went down, there were clouds in the sky again, but they were thin and non-threatening.  Lupe was almost to a much anticipated turn.  A little beyond Livengood, there it was!  SPHP made the R turn.  Almost immediately, this new road turned to gravel.  SPHP wondered what Lupe was getting into.  The road went up a hill.  At the top was a sign next to a long gravel pullout.  Lupe had made it to the start of the Dalton Highway!

Sunset from the Elliot Highway, 8-12-16.
Sunset from the Elliot Highway, 8-12-16.
Lupe reaches the start of the Dalton Highway near Livengood. 414 miles away, the Dalton Highway ends at Deadhorse, near the Prudhoe Bay oil fields and the Arctic Ocean.
Lupe reaches the start of the Dalton Highway near Livengood. 414 miles away, the Dalton Highway ends at Deadhorse, near the Prudhoe Bay oil fields and the Arctic Ocean.

While Lupe was at the Dalton Highway sign, a semi-truck appeared from the N.  The driver stopped the long truck at the pullout.  The truck was absolutely filthy, caked with dirt and dust.  The driver got out.  With the truck still idling, he used a wire brush to scrap the dirt off all the lights on the truck.  The driver checked on a few other things, then drove away.  Five minutes later, another semi-truck came out of the N.  The same thing happened.

Good grief!  Would the G6 be able to stand up to the Dalton Highway?  Was Lupe going to be able to get anywhere close to her peakbagging objectives?  Tomorrow would tell.  It would be here soon enough.

The next morning, SPHP was concerned.  The sky was cloudy, not clear.  The Dalton Highway was dry, though, so Lupe fearlessly, and SPHP wonderingly, started N in the G6.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway early on 8-13-16, Day 15 of her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation. The sky was overcast, and fog hung in some of the valleys.
Dawn from the Dalton Highway, 8-13-16.
Dawn from the Dalton Highway, 8-13-16.

SPHP drove slowly, even though the Dalton Highway was in better shape than feared.  No sense on taking any chance of damaging the G6 way up here in northern Alaska!  Up and down.  Lupe crossed many hills, valleys and ridges.  Sometimes the Alaska oil pipeline was in view.  Several sections of the road were paved, which was encouraging.  Lupe was making progress.

At mile 55, Lupe reached her first objective along the Dalton Highway.  It wasn’t a peakbagging goal.  Lupe was about to cross the famous Yukon River!

Crossing the Yukon River on the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NNE.
Crossing the Yukon River on the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NNE.

Crossing the bridge only took a minute or two.  Lupe was N of the mighty Yukon River!  On the E side of the Dalton Highway was the Alaska oil pipeline, and a little visitor center.  Time to get out of the G6 to see what there was to see, and celebrate Lupe’s crossing of the Yukon River.

At the Alaska oil pipeline, N of the Yukon River! Photo looks NNE.
Information display near the visitor center E of the pipeline.
Lupe on the N bank of the Yukon River. Photo looks downstream (W) toward the Dalton Highway bridge Lupe had just crossed.
Lupe on the N bank of the Yukon River. Photo looks downstream (W) toward the Dalton Highway bridge Lupe had just crossed.

The visitor center wasn’t open yet.  SPHP looked at a few of the displays outside.  Lupe went down to see the Yukon River.  She saw the bridge on the Dalton Highway she had just crossed to get N of the river.  Interestingly, the Alaska oil pipeline is attached to the underside of the bridge.

A gas station with a single pump was on the W side of the Dalton Highway.  $5.50 per gallon.  SPHP didn’t buy any.  The G6 had plenty.  Still, it was taking a chance.  No matter what the price at Coldfoot, SPHP would have to buy some there.

Lupe and SPHP went down to the Yukon River again, this time W of the bridge.

Lupe at the Yukon River W of the Dalton highway. The river was murky and gray, not exactly what SPHP had expected. Photo looks downstream (WSW).
Lupe at the Yukon River W of the Dalton highway. The river was murky and gray, not exactly what SPHP had expected. Photo looks downstream (WSW).
The Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River from the NNW.
The Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River from the NNW.

Almost as soon as Lupe left the Yukon River heading N, the Dalton Highway became damp, soft, and a little muddy.  Once again, SPHP became concerned, but before long the road improved.

Slow and easy, 30 to 35 mph, Lupe and SPHP continued N.  The Dalton Highway wound around, going up and down big hills and ridges.  Often it was possible to see many miles toward distant mountains seemingly far beyond the reach of civilization.  The scenery was vast and remote.  The truck traffic on the Dalton Highway became almost the only source of reassurance that it wasn’t crazy for Lupe to be way out here.

About an hour N of the Yukon River, the highway passed very close to the summit of Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.).  This was just too tempting.  With only 30 feet of elevation gained required to claim a peakbagging success way up in N Alaska, Lupe had to stop!

A short nature trail went up Finger Mountain.  Lupe followed it.  The top of the mountain was a collection of rounded boulders.  Lupe got up on some of them for a look around.

The summit of Finger Mountain from the Dalton Highway. Too close and easy for Lupe to resist! Photo looks NE.
The summit of Finger Mountain from the Dalton Highway. Too close and easy for Lupe to resist! Photo looks NE.
Lupe up on the boulders at the top of Finger Mountain.
Lupe up on the boulders at the top of Finger Mountain.
Looking NW at the vast Alaskan landscape from Finger Mountain. Olsons Lake is the largest pond seen on the R.
Looking NW at the vast Alaskan landscape from Finger Mountain. Olsons Lake is the largest pond seen on the R.
Loopster up on Finger Mountain, Alaska! Photo looks N.
Loopster up on Finger Mountain, Alaska! Photo looks N.

Lupe on Finger Mountain, Alaska 8-13-16

One of the things SPHP found amazing everywhere Lupe went in Alaska was how strikingly colorful the little tundra plants were.
One of the things SPHP found amazing everywhere Lupe went in Alaska was how strikingly colorful the little tundra plants were.

N of Finger Mountain, there was a long stretch of paved road.  Instead of deteriorating as it went N, as SPHP had feared, the Dalton Highway was getting better!  Overall, the Dalton Highway wasn’t nearly as bad as some of the descriptions SPHP had read online implied.  On the other hand, maybe that was just because the gravel sections weren’t muddy right now.

Lupe along the Dalton Highway a little N of Finger Mountain. The Alaska oil pipeline snakes N on the W side of the highway. More importantly, notice the lovely stripe on the road. Yes, it was paved here! Photo looks N.

Half an hour N of Finger Mountain, Lupe came to one of the most important non-peakbagging objectives of her entire Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation.  At mile 115 of the Dalton Highway, intrepid explorer and adventurer Lupe reached the Arctic Circle!

Intrepid American Dingo Lupe at the Arctic Circle!
Intrepid American Dingo Lupe at the Arctic Circle!

Lupe’s adventures in the Arctic were about to begin!  Back on the Dalton Highway again, Lupe and SPHP continued N another 60 miles to Coldfoot.  SPHP’s gamble paid off when gasoline for the G6 was a measly $4.59 per gallon, a significant savings over the $5.50 per gallon they wanted at the Yukon River.

At the Coldfoot gas station, Lupe made friends with a couple of motorcyclists from Huntington Beach, California.  Alfredo Gonzalez, a riding academy instructor for Harley-Davidson Motorcycles, and his friend, Sam, both showed an interest in Lupe.  They were riding BMW motorcycles, and were on their way back S after having gone all the way to Prudhoe Bay.

Sam (L) and Alfredo Gonzalez (R) from Huntington Beach, California with Lupe at the Coldfoot, Alaska gas station. Sam and Alfredo were on their way back S from Prudhoe Bay on their BMW motorcycles.
Sam (L) and Alfredo Gonzalez (R) from Huntington Beach, California with Lupe at the Coldfoot, Alaska gas station. Sam and Alfredo were on their way back S from Prudhoe Bay on their BMW motorcycles.

It turned out that Sam and Alfredo were talking about possibly taking another motorcycle trip going through the Dakotas in 2017, so SPHP invited them to stop by and visit Lupe at home in the Black Hills.  Maybe Lupe will get to see Sam and Alfredo again!

Sam and Alfredo said good-bye to Lupe and SPHP.  They were ready to head S.  Lupe was going the other direction.  Excitement was mounting – it wouldn’t be long now!  Another 25+ miles N of Coldfoot, Lupe would see the most famous mountain along the entire Dalton Highway.  90 miles into the Arctic, Lupe was here to climb it today!

Lupe 200 miles N of the start of the Dalton Highway, and 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle, approaching famed Sukakpak Mountain in the Brooks Range. Photo looks NE.

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