Black Elk Peak – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Double Digit Dingo! – Lupe’s 10th Birthday (12-14-20)

9:14 AM, 16ºF, Hwy 244 at the Rushmore profile parking lot – The newly minted Double Digit Dingo leapt out of the G6. Mighty chilly! Worse yet, the monotonous gray sky held out little hope for improvement. Would have to be the coldest day in the entire month of December. Maybe this wasn’t going to work?

Lupe, however, was unfazed. Apparently, she intended to tough it out at least long enough to see the most famous mountain in South Dakota. After all, this was the Carolina Dog’s big chance to do something special in the Black Hills on her 10th birthday!

At the Mount Rushmore profile parking lot.

Not a soul around on a Monday morning in December. After a look at George Washington, the only president visible from here, Lupe started trotting up Hwy 244. The main entrance to Mount Rushmore was 0.25 mile back.

Hardly any traffic along the highway, but there was more activity than SPHP expected up at the main visitor parking lot. Orange plastic fences blocked off various construction zones. Groups of people were coming and going.

SPHP let Lupe go only so far before saying this was good enough. Loop got a nice look at Mount Rushmore (5,725 ft.), but since Dingoes aren’t really welcome here, she wasn’t permitted to linger. A souvenir 10th birthday photo, and she was on her way.

**Mount Rushmore**, South Dakota’s most famous mountain. L to R: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln.

Since Loopster didn’t seem to mind the cold, perhaps she was up for a more substantial 10th birthday adventure? SPHP had just the thing in mind. Having already seen the most famous mountain in South Dakota, maybe she would enjoy climbing South Dakota’s highest mountain, too? A great trailhead providing access to the Black Elk Wilderness was only 4 or 5 miles farther W along Hwy 244.

10:05 AM, 18ºF, Willow Creek trailhead – 2 degrees warmer! Every little bit helped. Lupe stood by the Willow Creek trail No. 8 sign waiting for SPHP to decide which part of the loop to take. SPHP chose the W half, which began by heading S straight for Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.).

At the Willow Creek trailhead. Lupe would take the trail seen on the R. Black Elk Peak (R) visible in the distance. Photo looks S.

Only a skiff of snow was on the ground as Looper set out. Although cold today, the last 1.5 months had been uncommonly warm. The Black Hills had gotten almost no precipitation. Ordinarily, climbing Black Elk Peak on Lupe’s birthday would have been out of the question. Cold and snowy enough to make the journey more ordeal than fun.

Today was different! The awesome thing was that if Lupe made it up Black Elk Peak, this ascent on her 10th birthday would also be her 10th ascent of South Dakota’s highest peak.

The first part of Trail No. 8 was super easy, a nice level trek through the forest. Before long, the trail crossed Willow Creek and quickly came to a junction. Lost Cabin trail No. 2 went R. Lupe went L instead, staying on Willow Creek trail No. 8. Although she’d been on most of the trails in the Black Elk Wilderness at one time or another, the American Dingo had never been on this next section of No. 8 before.

Turned out it wasn’t far to a frozen waterfall on Willow Creek.

A little past the waterfall, Lupe came to two wooden bridges. After the second bridge, Trail No. 8 began a slow, steady climb. A field of dry grass bordered by large dark gray rock formations appeared on the L.

A smaller field appeared a little farther on. Smoke could be seen rising from the trees in the distance. A forest fire in December? No. Took a moment, but SPHP soon realized it was coming from the sawmill a few miles NE of Hill City. Completely normal.

**Five Points (6,221 ft.)** (L). Smoke (Center). Photo looks N.

After a mile on Trail No. 8, Lupe came to another junction, this time with Trail No. 9, which would take her to Black Elk Peak. This intersection was only 0.5 mile from the Willow Creek trailhead as the crow flies, since Trail No. 8 had taken a semi-circular route to the S, E, then NE.

Trail No. 9 went E a little way, then zigzagged S through the forest. At one point, Hwy 244 could be seen not too far away down a steep slope. However, No. 9 soon turned away from the road. From the last big field the trail came to, Black Elk Peak was in sight again. The Carolina Dog was getting closer, but she still hadn’t gained all that much elevation.

**Black Elk Peak** (L of Center) from the last field Trail No. 9 goes by. Photo looks SSW.

Re-entering the forest, Trail No. 9 turned sharply, starting to climb again. The next junction was with Willow Creek Rushmore trail No. 5. This intersection was only a little N of the massive granite formations of Elkhorn Mountain (6,381 ft.).

**Elkhorn Mountain** from the intersection of Trails No. 5 & 9. Photo looks S.

Trail No. 5 sign. Lupe stuck with No. 9 instead.

After passing Trail No. 5, the terrain become more rugged. Trail No. 9 went S to Elkhorn Mountain, then SW along its base. A high point was reached, then the trail descended 100 feet to cross a tiny tributary of Willow Creek. After crossing the creek, No. 9 switchbacked steadily higher working its way SE past the W end of Elkhorn Mountain.

The forest was a wreck! Thousands of large pines had been killed by pine bark beetles years ago. Most had fallen over by now, opening up the views to some extent.

Approaching **Elkhorn Mountain** on Trail No. 9. Photo looks S.

Another glimpse of **Black Elk Peak** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

**Elkhorn Mountain** from quite a bit higher now. Photo looks E.

The dramatic granite ridge of **Elkhorn Mountain** rises beyond the shattered forest. Photo looks NNE.

After getting nearly as high Elkhorn Mountain, Trail No. 9’s rate of climb decreased. Switchbacks lengthened, then disappeared. No. 9 continued to climb, but more slowly as it worked its way SW.

Lupe was getting close to the most scenic part of the entire journey, other than the summit of Black Elk Peak itself. Granite Flats wasn’t much farther. The first sign she was getting close was an impressive view of a 3-pronged granite knob atop other massive rock formations. This knob might have been Peak 6057, but SPHP wasn’t at all certain about that.

**Peak 6057** beyond Lupe? SPHP didn’t know. Still impressive, whatever it was.

The weather was changing as Lupe approached Granite Flats. Clouds closed in. The air cooled, becoming a little foggy, and it began to snow. Lightly, nothing to be concerned about, but views were disappearing. Suddenly it felt like winter! The cold gray world gradually turning white. So quiet, hidden, and remote!

Starting to snow on the way to Granite Flats. Photo looks SW.

**Black Elk Peak** from **Granite Flats**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

On one of the Granite Flats rock formations. **Black Elk Peak** (Center). Photo looks SW.

After spending a little time exploring Granite Flats, Lupe hurried on her way. Even so, she paused now and then at certain viewpoints.

Lupe on the day she turned 10. **Peak 6735** in the distance. Photo looks SSE.

Getting closer! Old fire lookout tower atop **Black Elk Peak** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Not much farther now! Loopster passed the last viewpoint, and the trail was soon switchbacking steeply up a forested slope. Loop gained most of the last few hundred feet of elevation remaining here. The trail then leveled out, proceeding SSE to a junction with the spur trail that goes to the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak.

The spur trail promptly swung around the S end of the summit region to more open ground on the W side of the mountain. Still snowing. Normally sweeping views of some of the most rugged terrain in the Black Hills were reduced to the silent, ghostly presence of nearby peaks. Trotting N now, Lupe reached the entrance to the spiral staircase that winds up to the to the old lookout tower.

The see-through metal grid stairway that used to freak Loop out so much had long since lost its terror. Up the American Dingo went without the least hesitation. She’d made it! The Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) lookout tower was only 50 feet away.

*Come on, SPHP! Nothing to it! We’ve done this a bunch of times, remember?*

After entering the lookout tower, Lupe ventured out onto the viewing platform. No one around. SPHP helped her up onto the wall. Even the views had deserted Black Elk Peak. December’s frigid, snowy solitude was awesome, though!

2:02 PM, 17ºF, Black Elk Peak – Leaving the viewing platform, Lupe had gone down to the basement of the lookout tower and out the back door. Now she was curled up on SPHP’s lap out on the huge granite formations W of the tower with SPHP’s jacket thrown over her for warmth. She was warm, too, despite winter’s grip.

Half an hour enjoying the gray-white solitude. Two chocolate coconut bars shared. A little water. SPHP munched an apple. The Carolina Dog was still toasty warm, but SPHP was getting cold and stiff sitting on the granite. A couple of people waved from up on the viewing platform. The signal to move on.

Up on the platform, Lupe and SPHP met a young couple from Boston. A friendly 15 minute chat, and it was time to leave them to the solitude, something they said was near impossible to come by in the mountains of New Hampshire and Vermont where they normally went.

A few more photos, and Looper was on her way.

Lupe trotted down the metal stairs. Nearly an hour had shot by up top! That bright spot in the clouds would set in 30 minutes.

The long trek back was utterly deserted. Much whiter than the journey up had been. So beautiful! What an experience being a Double Digit Dingo was turning out to be! The most famous mountain in South Dakota, and the highest one, too, on the very first day.

Near **Elkhorn Mountain** again during the return.

5:41 PM, 17ºF, Willow Creek trailhead – Dark and still snowing! SPHP hadn’t had to bring out the little flashlight until Lupe had gotten all the way back to the wooden bridges over Willow Creek. Now the adventure was over. SPHP turned the key, and the G6 sprang to life.

Lupe curled up for the ride home. To her great surprise that wasn’t the end of things. At home, SPHP made a couple of trips loading stuff into the G6. Then it was off to see Grandma!

Visiting Grandma was a Dingo birthday tradition. However, Grandma had moved to a senior living facility early this year, even before Lupe and SPHP had helped her get her big, old house sold. At the time she’d moved in, Grandma thought that Lupe wouldn’t be allowed in the senior living center, but that had turned out not to be true. Loopster had been there lots of times.

7:15 PM, Grandma’s apartment – The party animal had arrived! Lupe dashed in all excited to see Grandma! She barked and wagged her tail like mad, then raced over to hop up on the comfy white couch. Grandma was so happy to see Lupe, too!

No dilly-dallying! SPHP was famished. A chocolate coconut bar and an apple all day were no longer cutting it. Birthday presents were piled up around Lupe right there on the couch. One of the presents wasn’t even wrapped. Lupe’s buddy Dave Covill had sent her a package of Smart Cookie Rabbit & Pumpkin regional bites all the way from Colorado. They weren’t wrapped because Loopster hadn’t been able to wait. She’d been gobbling them up all week long.

On the comfy couch surrounded by presents.

Without delay, SPHP produced a birthday cake.

A Double Digit Dingo cake with candles! So incredibly many candles that Grandma could heat her apartment with it. The Carolina Dog was leery of the fearsome fiery spectacle.

*Another trial by fire! Why do I have to go through this every year?*

There was singing! Happy Birthday! It was happy, too!

Grandma’s girl on Double Digit Dingo day.

SPHP helped Lupe choose the first present to open. It sniffed good!

While the T-bone steak was broiling, Lupe opened the rest of her presents. She got 3 new Kong squeaker balls, and lots of good things to eat! Speaking of eating, she devoured the rest of the Smart Cookie Rabbit & Pumpkin regional bites that Dave Covill had sent. They served as T-bone steak appetizers. Although there was nothing wrong with Loopster’s appetite, she loved the whole concept.

Smart Cookie Rabbit & Pumpkin regional bites from Dave Covill. Bon appetit!

At last the T-bone was ready! While Lupe had steak, Grandma and SPHP had cake and ice cream.

While there was still some meat on it, SPHP saved the T-bone itself. The big bash ended with Lupe giving Grandma a live demonstration of what to do with a Purina Busy Rib Hide.

Nearly 10:00 PM by the time Lupe got home again. Double Digit Dingo day had been a blast, but a long one. Loopster hopped up on the bed. While SPHP read, the Carolina Dog got to munch away on that still meaty T-bone SPHP had saved for her.

Crunching away was so satisfying! By the time the light went out, only a stubby, little white T remained.

Double Digit Dingo day, **Black Elk Peak**, Black Hills of South Dakota, 12-14-20

Links:

Lupe’s 9th Birthday (12-14-19)

Lupe’s 11th Birthday (12-14-21)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Dingo Tales Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe Adventures.

Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 255: Missouri Buttes & A Visit With Dave Covill, Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation (5-27-20)

5-25-20 – Lucky Dingo! You’ve been granted a reprieve.

I have? That’s good! A reprieve from what, SPHP?

All this endless boredom laying around. Apparently you’ve served your 6 month sentence. Adventure is heading your way! Remember Dave Covill and your Mighty Dingo Missile Launch?

How could I ever forget that? I was sore for a week!

You’re lucky you weren’t crippled for life! Anyway, Dave is coming up from Colorado in a couple of days to climb Devils Tower (5,112 ft.). Says here he might have time to meet with us.

Devils Tower! That’s straight up and down! No one can climb that!

Actually, it is possible with the right equipment and skills, Loop.

Or a helicopter!

Hah! Yeah, that’s the only way we’d ever get up there! Don’t worry, we aren’t going to try to keep up with Dave. Last year his first little starter peak was Aconcagua (22,841 ft.), the high point of South America!

5-27-20, 12:45 PM, Wyoming Hwy 24 – We’re almost there, SPHP! There’s Devils Tower and the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.), too. Can we stop and take a look from here?

Sure thing, Loopster!

*Great to be back in Wyoming! There’s **Devils Tower** (R), and **Missouri Buttes** (L).* Photo looks NNW.

At 1:02 PM, Lupe arrived at the Devils Tower Trading Post. Dave was supposed to meet her here once he finished his final training session with his guide.

*Dave won’t be free for another hour yet, so let’s have a look around!* Photo looks WNW.

*Mr. Covill’s been training on **Devils Tower** yesterday afternoon, and again today. Maybe he’s somewhere on the lower part right now?*

*I don’t see him, though. Maybe he’s already down, or on another side of the mountain?*

*The entrance to America’s first national monument is right next to the trading post and the **Devils Tower KOA campground**.*

*This sign at the KOA depicts an **Indian legend** about how Devils Tower came to be.*

Dave finally showed up a little before 2:30 PM. He was pleased with how quickly he had bonded with his guide, and the quality of training. Despite Dave’s decades of peakbagging experience, Devils Tower was a tough and unique challenge! One of his knees was scraped up and swollen, but he still intended to climb the mountain tomorrow.

**Dave Covill**, Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation with Loop at the trading post.

Dave had a few hours to burn with Lupe, so what to do? Two options! First was a visit to Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.), the high point of the Bear Lodge mountains. Warren Peaks was easy. A USFS road went all the way to the fire lookout tower on top, so it was just a drive up. The other option was to climb Missouri Buttes, which would take a few hours.

After a very early start on the long drive up from Colorado yesterday morning followed by two rigorous training sessions on Devils Tower, and faced with the prospect of climbing it tomorrow, Warren Peaks sounded like the sensible choice to Dave. He jumped in the G6 with Lupe and SPHP.

On the way to Warren Peaks, SPHP naturally asked about Dave’s trip to Aconcagua, and also his return to Alaska in August, 2019 for a second attempt on Mount Isto (8,976 ft.), the high point of the Brooks Range. Both were gripping tales.

(Dave’s Aconcagua trip report, Greg Slayden’s Mount Isto trip report. Their mutual friend Edward Earl had drowned in the Jago River during a first trip to Mount Isto in June, 2015.)

Shortly before reaching Warren Peaks, SPHP parked on a hill expecting a view of Devils Tower, but only the Missouri Buttes were in sight.

Warren Peaks area. **Missouri Buttes** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

It was surprisingly cool up at Warren Peaks. A massive cloud hung over the region hiding the view of the Black Hills way over in South Dakota. Dave climbed the fire lookout tower as far as it was possible to go, but access to the platform around the ranger’s quarters was locked. Not to be outdone, even Lupe climbed the tower, which she doesn’t normally like to do.

Dave and Lupe near the **Warren Peaks lookout tower**.

The Black Hills of South Dakota were hidden by a cloud. Photo looks SE.

During the return to Devils Tower, SPHP took the paved roads, a longer route, so Dave could get a look at the town of Sundance.

Shhh! Quit talking, SPHP.

Hmm? What, Loop?

Be quiet! You’ve put Dave to sleep.

Oh! Umm, yeah. I often have that affect on people, don’t I, Looper? Guess I’ve got quite a soothing personality.

I suppose that’s one way of putting it.

Back at Devils Tower, Dave introduced Lupe and SPHP to a couple of climbing guides he’d met who happened to come along, then he had other business to attend to. The first of 3 more friends that were going to climb Devils Tower with him was due in this evening. So that was it for now, although Dave said he might be free again in a couple of days.

5-27-20, 4:50 PM, Devils Tower Trading Post –

Fun seeing Dave again, wasn’t it, SPHP?

Sure was, Loopster. Mighty nice of him to want to include us in his plans.

So what now? Are we just going home?

Oh, I don’t know. Not even 5:00 PM yet. We still have permission from the Nuckolls to climb Missouri Buttes. I think there’s still time. Want to do that?

Absolutely! Let’s go for it!

From Devils Tower, the entrance to the Nuckolls Ranch was a few miles N on Hwy 24, then another mile N and 4 miles W on Barlow Canyon Road.

At the turn off Barlow Canyon Road into the **Nuckolls Ranch**. Photo looks SW.

Of the 4 main Missouri Buttes, the 2 highest are on the privately owned Nuckolls Ranch.

As instructed while getting permission from Will Nuckolls to enter the ranch in order to visit the Missouri Buttes, SPHP drove S past 2 homes and a number of outbuildings, ultimately parking the G6 beyond them nearly 1.5 miles S of Barlow Canyon Road.

A pickup truck full of Nuckolls driven by family matriarch, Thea Nuckolls, appeared within minutes. Lupe was several hours later than SPHP had told them to expect her, but that wasn’t a problem. A friendly conversation, and they were on their way.

Lupe was too! She struck out for the Missouri Buttes following a dirt ranch road S.

*Come on! The NE Missouri Butte is only 1.5 miles away!*

The road curved slightly to the R as it went up a mostly forested valley. Lupe quickly came to an old water tank. The main road curved sharply R (NW) here, but the Carolina Dog continued SSW past the water tank a short distance into a more open part of the valley. Within a few hundred feet, the valley branched. Loop took the R (SW) branch instead of going straight ahead.

*We’re not far beyond the water tank now. The valley divides here. We’ll take the branch to the R.* Photo looks SSW.

After just a few minutes, Lupe turned S entering the forest and starting to climb. The remnant of a road curved L around to a clearing on the E side of hill. This looked like a good spot to leave the valley. A quick romp up the hill got Looper up to a narrow, gently rounded ridge.

Following the ridgeline SSW, the Carolina Dog continued to gain a little elevation. However, that didn’t last long. The ridge soon leveled out as it widened out. Lupe passed through an open forest. A few minutes got her beyond the pines. She was now on a broad plateau with a fenced field just ahead. Well beyond the field stood the NW Missouri Butte (5,374 ft.), the highest one of all.

*Thar she blows! That’s the **NW Missouri Butte**, our primary objective!* Photo looks SW.

Without entering the big field, Lupe followed the fence line L (SE). Along the way she went through another section of open woods. Almost at the end, she crossed a little ravine before ducking under a fence. Loopster wasn’t far at all from the NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) now.

Approaching the **NE Missouri Butte**. Photo looks S.

Since it was getting late in the day, and climbing the higher NW butte was top priority, Lupe turned WSW heading for it instead.

Heading for the **NW butte** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Lupe soon reached a stock pond at the base of the NW Missouri Butte. Looking at the mountain from here, a large patch of orange lichens was visible near the top of the N face.

By the stock pond just N of the NW Missouri Butte. Photo looks W.

**NW Missouri Butte** from the pond. Photo looks S.

The American Dingo had been here once before. In November 2016, back when J.W. Nuckolls was still alive, he had told SPHP the best way up the mountain.

The gist of it is this: Climb the talus slope to the base of the rock wall on the N face just below the orange lichens. From there go L (E) following a steep ramp of vegetation higher. At the top of the ramp, a short trail wraps around to the E side where it goes 40 or 50 feet to a spot where it’s easy to clamber up onto the lower E end of the summit. A short walk through junipers and cacti goes past a small tower to the true summit near the W end.

**N face of the NW Butte**. Best route – get as close to the orange lichens (Center) as possible, then follow the vegetation steeply up to the L. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

The **NE Missouri Butte** (R) from above the pond. Photo looks E.

Part of the talus could be avoided by staying to the NW close to a fence line, so that’s what Lupe did. As it turned out, she could have avoided even more talus if she’d actually crossed the fence. Not really a big deal, though, either way. Soon the Carolina Dog was on the rocks.

*Here we go! We’ll head toward the L from here, climbing all the way.* Photo looks SSE.

Even though SPHP knew the best route, Lupe didn’t go quite far enough L (E) to come up below the orange lichens. She wound up in a wide NW chute that was so steep SPHP almost felt compelled to retreat to correct the error.

In a steep, rocky chute on the NW flank. That’s the summit just above! Photo looks S.

Certainly not the best route, but the super steep part at the uppermost end of the chute went only 10 or 15 feet higher. Without assistance, the Carolina Dog quickly scrambled to the top. She’d come up right at the true summit rock!

*Whew! That last bit was a little scary!* Lupe at the **true summit** of the **highest (NW) Missouri Butte**. Photo looks NE.

A Missouri Butte survey benchmark No. 2 was visible along the W edge 10 or 15 feet from the true summit.

The survey benchmark is the bright spot near the big rock at far L. Photo looks NW.

**Survey benchmark No. 2**. No attempt was made to find any others.

Loopster at the **true summit of Missouri Buttes**. Photo looks NW.

5-27-20, 6:54 PM, 57ºF – Such a gorgeous evening! The views from the NW Missouri Butte were tremendous. Off to the W, Lupe could see a huge expanse of flatlands dotted with ponds gleaming in the sunlight. To the N were pine-covered ridges, but nothing nearly as high as where the Carolina Dog was now.

Just as in 2016, the summit region harbored lots of cacti. Lupe was aware of it, and didn’t want to move around much. Between all the rocks and cacti, she had a hard time finding a comfortable spot, but did finally settle down for a while. A light breeze blew out of the W. Loop and SPHP shared several small chocolate coconut granola bars.

Taking it easy on **Missouri Buttes**. Photo looks NNW.

A pleasant half hour drifted by. Unfortunately, the sun wouldn’t be up an awful lot longer. Since Loopster still hoped to climb the NE Missouri Butte, it was time to get going. Lupe returned briefly to the summit rock.

*A shame Dave was too tired to join us here. I think he might have liked **Missouri Buttes**!* Final moments on the summit rock. Photo looks ENE.

The NW butte’s summit region was a fairly large area. Juniper bushes hid the views to the E and S from the true summit. Before departing, it would be fun to see the two lowest Missouri Buttes and Missouri Butte Lake, which were all toward the S. Due to all the cacti, SPHP carried Lupe more than 100 feet to the lower SW edge.

**Missouri Butte Lake**. Photo looks SW.

The 2 lowest Missouri Buttes. **SE Butte** (L) and **SW Butte** (R). Both are over 5,000 ft. Photo looks S.

Loop near the SW end of the summit region. Photo looks NNE back toward the top.

After a good look around from the SW end, SPHP subsequently had to cart the American Dingo back up to the summit.

Enjoying a few more moments at the top while SPHP takes a breather. Photo looks ENE.

No more dilly-dallying! SPHP lugged the Carolina Dog to the E end of the summit. This was even farther, a good 200 or 300 feet. The view to the SE was certainly worth it! Devils Tower (5,112 ft.) was in sight. Lupe got to see the top of Devils Tower before Dave Covill did, albeit from more than 3.5 miles away.

The NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) was also in sight much closer at paw. Might still be time enough to climb it, if Loop hurried!

**NE Missouri Butte** (L) and **Devil’s Tower** (R). Photo looks ESE.

**Devils Tower**. The high point on the horizon is **Warren Peaks**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe could see the top of **Devils Tower** without having to scale that scary overgrown tree stump!

*Lovely, but we better get with it and hurry over to the **NE Missouri Butte**!* Photo looks E.

During the descent, Lupe took the slightly longer, but much safer route originally recommended by Mr. Nuckolls.

Loopster where the faint trail reaches the E end of the summit region. The trail extends toward the camera. Photo looks S.

The N face from the pass. Photo looks WSW.

Coming down the steep ramp. Photo looks ENE.

Descending the talus slope. Photo looks NE.

It took a while to get down. By the time Lupe was approaching the W end of the NE Missouri Butte, the sun was on the horizon.

Approaching the **NE Missouri Butte**. Photo looks E.

Looking back. The **NW Missouri Butte** at sunset. Photo looks W.

The climb up the W end of the NE Butte was fairly steep, but nothing like the NW Butte had been. Just a matter of how quickly SPHP could do it. Once the terrain began to level out, Lupe roamed E in open forest. The true summit was one of a couple of good-sized rocks near the far E end. Light was fading fast by the time the Carolina Dog got there.

SPHP was glad to see that the old thin cross that had been here during Lupe’s first ascent more than 3.5 years ago was still standing. Of course, the big attraction was the view of Devils Tower, which was 0.5 mile closer here than back at the NW Butte.

At the first of the two highest rocks. Photo looks SSE.

*We’re 0.5 mile closer to **Devils Tower** (L) here.* Photo looks SSE.

*Sweet view of **Devils Tower!** Hope you’ve enjoyed this tour of the Missouri Buttes!*

Sadly, 5 minutes at the top was it. Getting pretty dark now. Lupe left the summit of the NE Butte. The flashlight had to come out before she was even completely down off the mountain. As stars began twinkling in the evening sky, Loop and SPHP headed back to the G6. Between seeing Dave Covill and visiting the Missouri Buttes, it had been a memorable day! (10:06 PM, 44ºF)

5-31-20, 8:52 AM, 68ºF, Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, SD – Turned out the fun Dave Covill had initiated wasn’t over! After a successful ascent of Devils Tower with 3 of his buddies, Dave came down to the Black Hills in South Dakota. As Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation, he had business to attend to inspecting the installation of a beautiful bench along Trail No. 4 in the the Black Elk Wilderness. Dave kindly invited Lupe and SPHP to come along.

The plan was to go from Sylvan Lake up Trail No. 9, which went past an older, similar bench also provided by the Highpointers Foundation. From there Lupe would get to summit Black Elk Peak (7,242 ft.) before making a loop back along Trail No. 4.

Dave Covill and Lupe at the first bench along Trail No. 9.

**Black Elk Peak** (R of Center in the distance) from the viewpoint close to the first bench. Photo looks NE.

At the only creek crossing along Trail No. 9.

Everything went as planned. An hour later Lupe was approaching the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota. The Highpointers Foundation had helped pay for restoration work, including new windows in the top of the tower.

*Practically to the top now! Those are the **Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.)** (L) and **Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.)** is the big knob seen just L of my head.* Photo looks SSW.

Approaching the old fire lookout tower on **Black Elk Peak**. Photo looks N.

On the rock wall around the lookout tower’s viewing deck. Photo looks W.

Dave maintained that the highest natural point on Black Elk Peak was just outside the N wall of the lookout tower. Since the Highpointers Foundation is dedicated to education, support, and conservation of the highest point in each of the 50 U.S. states, Lupe figured Dave ought to know. The Carolina Dog made the little scramble up to it.

Looper at South Dakota’s natural high point.

Black Elk Peak wasn’t crowded, but it was busy. A nice 25 minute stay, and it was time to let others enjoy a bit more serenity. Besides, Dave needed to get over to that new bench along Trail No. 4!

*As South Dakota’s high point, **Black Elk Peak** is one of the most popular hikes in the Black Hills! Guess we’re about to head out again now.* Photo looks SSE.

Heading down the metal stairway that used to freak Lupe out. After 9 ascents, she’s fine with it now. Photo looks SE.

Trail No. 4 passes between the Cathedral Spires (6840 ft.) and Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.). At a point with a view of Black Elk Peak a mile to the N, Lupe came to the beautiful new bench donated by the Maura and Karen Raffensperger families and the Highpointers Foundation in memory of Grace Underwood Raffensperger. Many years ago, Grace had homesteaded in the Black Hills.

Lupe tests out the lovely new **Grace Raffensperger bench** along Trail No. 4.

*The **Cathedral Spires** are this close to the Raffensperger bench!*

5-31-20, 1:12 PM, 80ºF, Sylvan Lake – Back at Sylvan Lake, it was time for good-byes. Dave had to hit the road home to Colorado, and was soon on his way.

Last day of May already! Thanks to Dave’s visit, Lupe had finally gotten her 2020 mountain adventures off to a good, but much delayed start. With June just hours away, the Carolina Dog once again had high hopes for a spectacular Summer of 2020!

With **Dave Covill** at the **Raffensperger bench** along Trail No. 4, **Black Elk Wilderness**, South Dakota 5-31-20

**Dave Covill** (L) on **Devils Tower** 5-29-20 with friends **Justin Schaffer** (L), **Stephen Henry** (R) in back, and **Sheryl Lampert** in front. Guide **Lansdon Alcorn** (far R). Missouri Buttes in the distance.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Adventure

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 181 – Missouri Buttes, WY (11-6-16)

Highpointers Foundation

Nuckolls Ranch on Facebook

Devils Tower National Monument

The Legend of Devils Tower

Climb Devils Tower! – Devils Tower Lodge

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 226 – Gap Lode Peak & Black Elk Peak (4-22-18)

Start – Palmer Creek trailhead W of Mount Rushmore, 7:38 AM, 41°F

Spring had sprung yet again! Maybe this time it would stick? A certain Carolina Dog, sick and tired of winter’s repeated attempts to reassert control, was more than ready. She arrived bright and early at the Palmer Creek trailhead with an ambitious day of peakbagging planned in the Black Elk Wilderness.

**Black Elk Peak (7,131 ft.)** from the Palmer Creek trailhead. Photo looks SE.

The first mountain Lupe was going for was Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.). As soon as SPHP was ready, the eager American Dingo was underway. Following the spur trail from the trailhead, she crossed the Palmer Creek valley. A bridge got her across tiny Palmer Creek. 0.25 mile later, Lupe arrived at the junction with Lost Cabin Trail No. 2.

In the **Palmer Creek valley** setting out on the spur trail. Photo looks SW.

Loop reaches the junction with Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. Photo looks S.

At the trail junction Lupe went R. She soon passed a registration station for entry into the Black Elk Wilderness. SPHP registered, and Loopster went on.

Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 wound SW up a forested slope. After Lupe had gone a mile or so, she reached a level area. A massive granite formation extended a few hundred feet N from the trail. The exposed granite would provide views in several directions. Ready for a break, Lupe and SPHP went out onto the granite to look around.

Quite a number of peaks Lupe had been to before were in sight.

Loop out on the granite with a view of **St. Elmo Peak (6,458 ft.)** (L). Photo looks WSW.

The double peaked ridge in the background is **Zimmer Ridge (6,600 ft.)**. The high point at Center is the true summit. Photo looks WNW.

Many smaller peaks Lupe has been to are seen here. The highest, on the horizon a little to the L of Loop, is **Five Points (6,221 ft.)**. Photo looks N.

Looking SW, a big knob of rock capped the upper end of a sloping ridge. That knob of rock was the E high point of Gap Lode Peak. Loop still had a long way to go to get up there.

The knob of rock (L of Center) at the upper end of the ridge beyond Lupe is the E high point of **Gap Lode Peak**. Photo looks SW.

Lupe returned to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. She hadn’t encountered much snow lower down, but as the Carolina Dog continued gaining elevation, more and more snow appeared. Soon the trail had a couple of feet of snow on it, slowing SPHP down considerably.

The snowy trail switchbacked up a long slope. Pine bark beetles killed a great many trees in this region years ago. Enough dead trees have fallen over to open up the views to some extent. Lupe had tree broken views to the N most of the way.

After a tedious climb, Lupe and SPHP reached a sunny, snow-free pass W of High Point 6482. This pass was the start of the Black Elk Wilderness.

After a long climb, Lupe reaches a snow-free pass W of **High Point 6482** on the **topo map**. This was the start of the **Black Elk Wilderness**. Photo looks S.

The pass was as close to Gap Lode Peak as Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 was going to get. Lupe had been to the mountain once before. Even though Gap Lode Peak is only a little over 0.25 mile WSW of the pass, she knew that getting there wasn’t going to be easy.

The terrain between Gap Lode Peak and Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 is rough, but that wasn’t the big problem. Large amounts of deadfall timber were the real issue. The deadfall had been a significant problem the last time Lupe had been here. The situation hadn’t improved at all over the last few years. If anything, the deadfall was even worse than before.

As soon as Lupe left the trail, she faced large quantities of deadfall timber. She could travel fairly quickly through it, but the deadfall slowed SPHP down tremendously. Photo looks W.

Several large granite formations were W of the trail. Lupe went to them, climbing partway up to get a view. The E high point of Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.) was much closer now.

From rocks W of Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, Lupe gets her first close up view of **Gap Lode Peak**. Photo looks SW.

**Gap Lode Peak** may not be very far away, but getting there is a pain. All the deadfall makes it an ordeal. It’s an impressive peak, though, for the Black Hills. Photo looks SW.

On her way to **Gap Lode Peak**, Lupe would travel down past **Skinny Rock** seen at lower R. She then continued to the far ridge coming up near the R edge. This was a mistake. It would have been better to go L up the snowy slope to reach the ridgeline higher up like Lupe did the first time she came here. Photo looks SW.

To get any closer, Lupe had to descend into a valley chock full of deadfall timber. This valley had a N exposure, so 2 or 3 feet of snow was present as well. Progress became dreadfully slow.

Deadfall drove all route decisions. Lupe was constantly faced with choices. She had lots of options – bad routes, worse routes, terrible routes, and ghastly routes. SPHP tried to encourage her toward a nice selection of bad routes. The goal was to reach the lower end of a wall of rock ahead.

Crossing the obstacle laden valley involved no great distance, but chewed up plenty of time. Lupe did work her way through, though, and arrived at a tall, thin rock. She had passed by this same rock the first time she’d gone to Gap Lode Peak, too. It stood at the far N end of the wall of rock, and marked the point where Lupe could get past it. SPHP decided this landmark deserved a special name.

Being an endlessly creative and imaginative person, SPHP easily came up with the splendid name “Skinny Rock”.

*“Skinny Rock”, SPHP? Oh, yeah, that’s sheer genius. Hope you didn’t strain your brain.*

In the immediate vicinity of Skinny Rock, the deadfall wasn’t bad at all. As, Lupe continued on, however, she was soon back in the thick of it. Ahead to the W was Gap Lode Peak’s NE ridge. She pushed on toward it.

The first time Lupe had come to Gap Lode Peak, she had climbed this NE ridge reaching the ridgeline high on the mountain. This had worked well. SPHP wondered, though, if the ascent might not be even easier if Lupe could get up on the ridgeline at a lower point? The American Dingo set out to find out.

Struggling through deadfall and snow, Lupe managed to get close to the ridgeline. A continuous vertical wall of rock 15 to 30 feet high offered no obvious way to the top. A search along the base of the wall, revealed a place where it might be possible to scramble up.

Lupe had no problem doing just that without the slightest assistance from SPHP. From the ridgeline, she had a great view of the territory she’d just come through. She could also see that this wasn’t going to work. She was on a narrow, uneven wall of granite with drop offs on both sides.

Loopster reaches the top of a narrow spine of granite along Gap Lode Peak’s NE ridge. Unfortunately, this was a bad place to come up. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe did have a good view of the territory she had just come through. **High Point 6482** is on the L. The closer, lower rock formation on the L is where Lupe had the good view of Gap Lode Peak. **Skinny Rock** is visible lower down L of Center. **Black Elk Peak** is in the distance at Center. Photo looks E.

After a brief, failed attempt to make progress along this granite spine, SPHP gave up. Loopster retreated off the wall, and began heading SSW near its base. After going only a few hundred feet the wall ended. Loop returned to the ridgeline.

The deadfall on the other side of the ridge was bad, but the slope wasn’t quite as steep. This area had a N exposure, so there was plenty of snow. Lupe stayed on the W side of the ridge, leaping over or going under the deadfall as appropriate. SPHP struggled onward as well. Both headed SSW steadily climbing higher.

The terrain began to level out. Gap Lode Peak has two main high points, an E one and a W one, at nearly the same elevation. Lupe had made it to the deadfall strewn saddle between them. The topo map shows a tiny area within a 6,560 ft. contour at the W high point, which according to the map makes the W high point the true summit, since the E high point doesn’t have a 6,560 ft. contour at all.

SPHP had a different opinion. During Loop’s first ascent of Gap Lode Peak she had visited both high points. SPHP came away believing that the E high point was actually the true summit, though it was admittedly hard to tell for sure. Nevertheless, the Carolina Dog once again headed toward the W high point first. When she got close, it was time to take a break. Loop had an excellent view of Sylvan Peak (7,000 ft.) from a rock near her resting place.

Lupe near the W high point. **Sylvan Peak** is the high ridge at Center. Closer by on the L is a SW granite arm of Gap Lode Peak that Lupe would visit after the W high point. Photo looks SW.

Lupe curled up in the shade. She had water and Taste of the Wild. SPHP munched an apple. All the snow, deadfall, and rugged terrain on the way here took a few minutes to recover from.

When the American Dingo was ready, she went with SPHP to Gap Lode Peak’s W summit. She got up on one of the highest rocks. According to the map, she had reached the true summit of Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.).

The best views were toward the E and SE into the heart of the Black Elk Wilderness. This region contains some of the most rugged territory in the Black Hills. Huge granite formations of Black Elk Peak (7,131 ft.), Peak 6920 and Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.) dominated the landscape.

**Black Elk Peak**, the highest mountain in South Dakota is beyond Lupe. Large granite formations on the R are part of **Peak 6920**. Photo looks E.

**Peak 6920**. SPHP isn’t certain if the summit is in view here or not. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe would soon be going to the **E summit of Gap Lode Peak** (Center). The route up is from the L. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

After visiting the W summit, Lupe did not go directly to the E high point. Instead she went SW out onto a massive granite arm of the mountain. Deadfall made even this short jaunt time consuming. Once Loop made it to the exposed granite, though, it was easy to move around and enjoy some pretty spectacular Black Hills views.

At the end of the massive **SW arm of Gap Lode Peak**. The E high point is in view on the L. **Elkhorn Mountain** is the nearest of the two distant peaks on the R. Photo looks NE.

**Black Elk Peak** is beyond Lupe. **Peak 6920** is on the R. Photo looks E.

**Black Elk Peak** from the SW arm of **Gap Lode Peak**. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

**Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.)** is part of the high ridge in the distance L of Center. **Saint Elmo Peak** is much closer on the R. Photo looks W.

Lupe finished her tour of Gap Lode Peak with a visit to the E high point. Deadfall once again made the trek difficult despite the relatively short distance.

Lupe nearing the E high point. Photo looks ESE.

Actually getting up on top of the E high point involved a short scramble. Lupe climbed up unassisted, although the scramble was right on the edge of what she could manage on her own. Looper did make it to the top, though. She could now claim her second successful Gap Lode Peak ascent, having once again visited both the E and W summits.

The views from here, of course, were for the most part quite similar to what Looper had already seen from the W high point.

Lupe up on one of the highest rocks at **Gap Lode Peak’s E summit**. **Sylvan Peak** is in the distance on the R. Photo looks SSW.

**Black Elk Peak** (L), **Peak 6920** (Center) and **Little Devil’s Tower** (Lupe’s ear on the R points to it) are all in view. Photo looks ESE.

Looper atop the E high point of **Gap Lode Peak**. SPHP believes this is the true summit despite what the topo map shows. Photo looks SE.

*So I’ve done it, right, SPHP? Made it to both the E & W high points, so now I can claim another successful Gap Lode Peak ascent. …. That’s right, Looper! Great work, puppy!* Photo looks SE.

Neither the E nor W summits of Gap Lode Peak are roomy, but there was a small level area up here where Loop could hide in the shade next to the highest rocks. The Carolina Dog decided she wanted to do that while SPHP admired the views.

Although the topo map shows that the W high point is the true summit, SPHP once again came to the conclusion that the E high point is actually higher. Admittedly, it’s a close call, but that’s how it appeared.

**Sylvan Peak** (Center) and the **W summit of Gap Lode Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Bear Mountain** (distant ridge at Center) and **Saint Elmo Peak** (R). The saddle between Gap Lode Peak’s E & W high points is in the foreground. Photo looks W.

**Black Elk Peak**. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

After being an eager participant earlier on, Lupe was reluctant to hop up onto any more rocks. After all, her peakbagging goal was accomplished. She now preferred relaxing in the shade. Not until it was getting close to time to leave could she be persuaded to resume her usual cooperation.

*I’ve already done this mountain, SPHP. You admitted so yourself only a little while ago. What more do you want? Sheesh! Photo looks N.*

*OK, OK, how does this look? …. Beautiful, Loop! Always better with a Carolina Dog, you know.* **Sylvan Peak** (L) and the **W Summit of Gap Lode Peak** (R). Photo looks WSW.

After a leisurely time spent touring the highlights of Gap Lode Peak, Lupe was ready to move on. She now needed to get back to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. SPHP had seen from the E summit that she might be able to take a shortcut, and avoid losing so much elevation.

So after Loop made it back down to the saddle, she gave the potential shortcut a whirl. Lupe and SPHP plunged down a steep NNE slope in search of a better route E.

Looper still lost a bunch of elevation. This maneuver looked like it was going to prove to be a complete waste of time. However, as she neared a wall of rock, a possible saddle could be seen where Lupe might be able to get through. The saddle was a little higher than where she was at the moment. The effort of going back up to it was rewarded. Surprisingly, a narrow passage actually did exist.

Rock formations seen from the saddle between the E and W summits of **Gap Lode Peak**. These formations are closer to the E summit. Photo looks SE.

Lupe finds a narrow passage to the E. Photo looks WNW.

*Hey, what do you know, SPHP? Looks like this is going to work after all. Kind of a cool secret passage!* Photo looks NW.

Whether Lupe’s newly discovered secret passage E from Gap Lode Peak really saved any time is debatable. She certainly avoided losing as much elevation as she would have going all the way back down to Skinny Rock, but she wound up facing a longer than expected trek back to the trail. The deadfall wasn’t any better on the this route than on the Skinny Rock route, either. At least there was less snow this way.

At any rate, Loopster eventually did get back to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. Although she hadn’t traveled any great distance getting to Gap Lode Peak, hours and hours had gone by. SPHP had originally foreseen Lupe also visiting Peak 6920 and Black Elk Peak on Expedition No. 226. The sun would still be up for hours, but Peak 6920 would be another super time-consuming off trail march through deadfall and snow. Trails go all the way up Black Elk Peak, but the summit was still miles away.

Calling it a day would have been the smart thing to do. SPHP realized that Peak 6920 had to be dropped from consideration, but maybe Black Elk Peak wasn’t a lost cause yet? The Carolina Dog seemed energetic and perfectly happy. Lupe and SPHP continued on Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 intent upon Black Elk Peak.

Pushing on to Black Elk Peak. Photo looks WSW.

On and on along the snowy trail. A short break was taken in a sunny glade. Lupe enjoyed a shared chocolate granola bar. Hitting the trail once again, she came to the Lost Cabin No. 2 spur trail, a shortcut to Trail No. 9 leading to Black Elk Peak. The spur trail gained elevation slowly following a creek. There was a lot of minor up and down along the way.

Lupe was nearing Little Devil’s Tower, but she was still far below it.

At the start of the Log Cabin Trail No. 2 spur trail. This was a short cut to Trail No. 9 on the way to Black Elk Peak, so Lupe took it.

**Little Devil’s Tower** from the Lost Cabin No. 2 spur trail. Photo looks SSE.

When Lupe finally reached Trail No. 9, she started meeting groups of people on their way down to Sylvan Lake from Black Elk Peak. These were first people she had encountered all day. It was getting toward evening, so no one else was on the way up.

Before long, Trail No. 9 was practically deserted, too. Loop stayed busily engaged watching chipmunks. SPHP kept trudging higher. At last, the American Dingo was above Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.) and the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). Black Elk Peak wasn’t much farther now.

After enjoying chipmunk watching along Trail No. 9, Loopster reaches a view of the **Cathedral Spires** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Two people were still out on the observation deck of the old Harney Peak lookout tower when Lupe arrived at the summit of recently (2016) renamed Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.). Brandon and Nate were rock climbers from Sioux Falls. The only reason they hadn’t started down yet was that they intended to camp somewhere not too far away. After a pleasant chat with SPHP, they departed as well.

Lupe left the observation tower, taking a trail from the basement out onto the granite W of the tower. A cool E breeze was blowing. SPHP shared the last chocolate granola bar with her.

Out on the granite W of the old Harney Peak lookout tower on **Black Elk Peak**. Photo looks SE.

**Cathedral Spires** (R) from **Black Elk Peak**. Photo looks S.

This was Loop’s 8th ascent of the highest mountain in South Dakota. Photo looks NE.

Lupe had made it all the way to Black Elk Peak, but shadows were lengthening. She couldn’t stay. In fact, it would be dark long before she could get back to the Palmer Creek trailhead. Better get a move on.

On the way back, the American Dingo made a loop, taking Trail No. 9 down to Willow Creek Trail No. 8. SPHP was thinking this might be a shorter route, but it had been a long time since Lupe had last been this way. Trail No. 9 stayed high much farther than SPHP remembered.

The scenery was beautiful, but Loop didn’t have time to dilly dally. It was a race against time and fading light.

On snowy Trail No. 9 on the way down to the Willow Creek trailhead.

Looking back at the lookout tower on **Black Elk Peak**. Photo looks SW.

Nearing **Elkhorn Mountain** prior to sunset. Photo looks NE.

Night won. Two miles before Lupe reached the Willow Creek trailhead, SPHP had to bring out the flashlight. After a short rest, Lupe trotted on, alert and uncomplaining, beneath silvery stars and a bright half moon. (End – 10:25 PM, 38°F)

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out her Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!