Black Elk Wilderness – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 323 – Peak 6057: A Black Elk Wilderness Adventure (1-21-24)

11:21 AM, 46ºF, Horse Thief Lake – Cabin fever! That was what had been ailing Lupe all through a 10 day long cold snap of absolutely frigid weather, even for January. However, that was all history now. Going to be a nice day today, and the American Dingo was in high spirits as she leapt out of the RAV4. A Black Hills expedition is a always a sure-fire cure for cabin fever!

Sheesh! Checked the snow depth maps before we left home, Loopster. Only supposed to be 2″ of snow up here. Actually more like 6″!

Oh, please! We’re still going, aren’t we, SPHP? It’s been so boring at home!

Yeah, don’t worry, Loop. We’re still going. All this snow isn’t going to make things any easier, but we’ll be OK.

A short trek from the parking lot got the Carolina Dog to the start of Horse Thief Lake Trail No. 14. SPHP barely glanced at a posted map of the Black Elk Wilderness trail system. Lupe had been here plenty of times before.

Start of **Horse Thief Lake Trail No. 14**. Photo looks SSW.

Well, you ready, Looper? Days are mighty short in January, and we’re off to a rather late start. It’s Onward! Puppy, ho! time.

SPHP didn’t have to say it twice. The American Dingo set off heading S on Horse Thief Lake Trail No. 14. The first part of the trail climbed a bit. Didn’t amount to much except that in some places the small stream that ran along the trail had flown over it and frozen into a sheet of ice. Lupe did fine, but the ice was so slick that SPHP had to exercise caution.

By an ice-coved section of the trail. Photo looks SSE.

After passing a frozen waterfall on the L, the trail leveled out and wasn’t so icy. Even SPHP was making great time. Soon Lupe was approaching some of the towering granite formations common throughout the Black Elk Wilderness.

Granite formations along the way. Photo looks S.

Near some of the vertical granite. Photo looks SSE.

After 0.7 mile, Lupe reached the first trail junction. To the L, Centennial Trail No. 89 headed S. To the R was a section of trail comprising part of both the Horse Thief Lake and Centennial trails.

At the **junction with Centennial Trail No. 89**. Photo looks S.

**Sunlit spires** near the **Horse Thief Lake/Centennial trails junction**. Photo looks E.

Go R here, Loopster. We need to head W.

Fine, SPHP, but what’s our destination, anyway? You haven’t said.

Setting off on the section of trail that’s part of both **Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14** and **Centennial Trail No. 89**. Photo looks SW.

Heh, not likely to reach our destination, Loop. More than likely we’re on a wild goose chase. Intend to solve a Black Elk Wilderness mystery today.

Intriguing. Sort of. Care to quit beating around the bush and clue me in on what you’re thinking, SPHP?

I thought you were a mind reader, Loopster.

Sometimes I am, SPHP. You’re being mighty cryptic, though.

Only 5 minutes on the shared section of trail, and Lupe made it to the point where Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 and Centennial Trail No. 89 parted ways again. No signage here.

Go R again, Looper. We’re taking Centennial Trail No. 89 from here.

Only a few tracks in the snow went that way, none of them recent, as the Centennial trail immediately climbed toward a big boulder.

On **Centennial Trail No. 89**, the path less taken. Photo looks NW.

Once past the boulder, Centennial Trail No. 89 wove its way W, climbing along the S side of a fairly shallow valley. As Lupe got higher, granite spires she’d passed on Horse Thief Lake Trail No. 14 were visible back to the E. However, since she was now going the opposite direction, for the most part, the Carolina Dog saw only trees.

Gradually climbing through the forest. Photo looks W.

On a beautiful filtered sunlight stretch. Photo looks W.

After roughly 0.33 mile, Lupe reached Pass 5380. Nothing to be seen here except snow and forest. Continuing W over the pass, glimpses of a high hill capped by a massive granite formation soon appeared ahead.

Deep in the forest at **Pass 5380**. Photo looks NW.

The **soaring granite-capped hill** (Center). Photo looks W.

Awesome, but I hope that’s not where we’re going, SPHP! We’d never make it to the top. That’s genuine rock climber territory to be sure, at least from this side.

No, we’re not going there, Loop, but that’s sort of what I expect Peak 6057 will be like from the looks of the topo map.

Really? Peak 6057 is a fail already then, SPHP. Why even bother?

Because it was already in the Peakbagger.com database when we started your account in May, 2014, and we’ve never checked it out. In fact, no one else on Peakbagger has ever reported an ascent of Peak 6057, either. Zero ascents, zero attempts.

OK! And what does that tell you, SPHP? Everyone takes one glance at the topo map, and very sensibly says it ain’t happening!

Yes, and no doubt they’re most likely right, but that’s not 100% certain. Besides, Peak 6057 has been on your list of places to go, bugging me for nearly 10 years now. About time we solved the mystery of whether or not we can climb it, Loopster. Even if its not possible, we’ll still enjoy a great off-trail Black Elk Wilderness adventure!

Doesn’t sound as mysterious as you’re letting on, SPHP.

Be that as it may – Onward! Puppy, ho!

Continuing W, Centennial Trail No. 89 descended into a valley. As soon as Lupe crossed the drainage at the valley floor, SPHP called a halt.

OK, this is it. We leave the trail here, Loop.

Simply fabulous! In addition to being doomed to failure, we’re in for one heck of a bushwhack, aren’t we, SPHP?

It’s the Black Elk Wilderness, Looper. Expect no less.

About to leave **Centennial Trail No. 89**. Photo looks SE.

Abandoning the trail, SPHP led Lupe SSE through a thicket of tall, thin bushes. Pushing through them was an annoyingly slow process, even on this level terrain. Once through the worst of the initial tangle, Lupe took the lead.

Ah-ha! Not so bad now, is it, Loopster? Just keep going up this valley. Plan is to follow it all the way to its upper S end, turn W climbing up and out, then swing around to the N to approach Peak 6057 from the S.

It was a terrific plan, extremely well thought out as readily confirmed by the topo map, except for one thing. At the first bend, the valley ahead was choked with deadfall and endless thickets of the tall, thin trees or bushes. Furthermore, the valley floor was no longer flat.

Hemmed in by a near vertical granite wall on the R, and a steep, forested slope on the L, Lupe was forced to keep leaping over one obstacle after another amid belly deep snow and rough terrain, occasionally crossing a tiny tributary of Pine Creek.

One obstacle after another ahead. Photo looks SSW.

Even though Lupe never complained, it wasn’t long before SPHP devised a new most excellent plan.

Dingo feathers! Enough of this, Loopster! Peak 6057 isn’t that far, but it’s going to take us forever and a day to get there this way. Let’s get up out of these dang bushes down by the stream, then I’ll check the map to see what our options are.

Continuing only far enough to get to where some room opened up below the rock wall on the R, Lupe climbed just high enough into the forest to get above the jungle down by the stream.

How’s this, SPHP? You can check your map here.

Perfect, Loop. Give me just a moment.

Waiting for SPHP to check the map. Photo looks NW.

Hmm. Well, looks like we ought to be able to head W from here, Looper. Actually a shortcut, if it works. On the other paw, if the terrain gets too steep, we might still be able to head S paralleling the valley floor, thereby sticking more or less to the original plan.

The American Dingo’s ascent of Peak 6057 began in earnest as Lupe headed W, now climbing steadily. Early on, she passed a region of big boulders. A long stretch of uniformly steep open forest came next. Quite a bit of deadfall strewn about here, but it wasn’t too bad.

After gaining 160 feet of elevation, a huge granite hill hundreds of feet higher appeared ahead. Approaching a much lower ledge that looked like it might provide initial views, the snow deepened. Bedrock under the snow was very slippery, but by staying toward the R, Lupe found an easy way up onto this first ledge.

The sky was clouding up, a bit of a chill in the air, as Lupe reached the top of the ledge. She could see a long way E, but the most striking view was of several enormous granite formations 0.5 mile SSE.

Wow! Gorgeous up here, SPHP, but if any of those rugged formations is Peak 6057, your mystery is solved. It’s a no go.

Splendid, aren’t they, Loop? Typical Black Elk Wilderness. And no, none of them are Peak 6057. They’re all off in the wrong direction.

Can we take a break here, SPHP? I’m getting hungry.

Kind of snowy. Let’s get a little higher, Looper. Maybe we can find a dry spot that isn’t solid rock?

Leaving the ledge, a deep valley to the S forced the Carolina Dog to angle WNW in order to keep climbing. Lupe sometimes had views of the much higher massive granite formation across the valley, but it wasn’t Peak 6057, either. SPHP was becoming concerned over whether or not Lupe was going to be able to get across the valley, because she was eventually going to need to, when a snow-free dry spot appeared by a big pillar.

This looks good, Loopster. Let’s take a break here.

Continuing on in search of Peak 6057 and a place to take a break. Photo looks NNW.

The **massive granite summit** across the valley. Photo looks SSW.

Loopster by the rest break pillar. Photo looks ENE.

1:58 PM, at the rest break pillar 1/6 mile ENE of Peak 6057 –

Chocolate coconut bar, Loopster?

Don’t mind if I do, SPHP, but why so generous? We haven’t even made our attempt on Peak 6057 yet.

Yeah, well, I’ve already been catching glimpses of Peak 6057. What I’ve seen of the E side looks utterly impossible.

Oh, sorry to hear that, SPHP. Disappointing, but even you were expecting it to be that way.

That’s the way the Black Elk Wilderness mystery crumbles, Loop. Haven’t completely given up hope yet. The highest ground I’m confident we can get to is over on the SW side of Peak 6057. Distance-wise, we’ll actually be close to the summit. Elevation-wise, not so much, unless the situation looks a lot different over there.

The chocolate coconut bar had vanished in a flash. Lupe had a silver bowl full of Taste of the Wild. SPHP munched the usual apple. Apple consumed, it was time.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Still climbing, although not as steeply as before, Lupe steadily closed in on Peak 6057. None of the what could be seen of the E face looked the least bit encouraging – nothing but towering vertical walls. The Carolina Dog hadn’t reached them yet, when an opening appeared to the WSW.

Think we’re past that valley to the S now! The terrain doesn’t look bad at all. Quite a bit of deadfall, but we’ll get through it. Head that way, Loop. We can start circling around to the SW side of Peak 6057 from here.

Start of the deadfall-strewn passage around the S side of Peak 6057. Photo looks SW.

The snow was belly deep on Lupe, the deadfall ghastly. SPHP’s progress was dreadfully slow, but Lupe didn’t complain. SPHP soon concluded that the fastest way around the S side of Peak 6057 would be to go right up next to its soaring granite walls.

Heading for **Peak 6057** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

As expected, the territory next to the granite walls proved to be a maze of deadfall and boulders, but this was the shortest route, likely no worse than circling more widely through the almost equally challenging region farther from the peak.

Near **Peak 6057’s granite walls**. Photo looks WSW.

The mountain’s **SE face**. Photo looks NW.

Working along the S side of the mountain eventually revealed the high ground Lupe intended to explore SW of the summit. Although difficult territory due to all the deadfall, it was actually very scenic, featuring several separate enormous spires.

First view of the **SW spires** (L & Center). Photo looks W.

Scrambling amid all the boulders and deadfall along the S side of the mountain, it had already become clear that Lupe wasn’t going to find any magic route to the top. Already mentally prepared, it wasn’t such a terrible disappointment. No regrets. Seldom seen by Dingo or human, this Black Elk Wilderness scenery was fantastic!

Funny how nature can be such a mess, SPHP, and yet the overall effect is absolutely gorgeous!

True enough, Loopster. Wish it worked that way at home. Never does, though. Quite the opposite!

As Lupe got around to the SW side of Peak 6057, the potential arose to explore a couple of narrow regions between the spires and the main mass of granite.

Next to a narrow opening. Photo looks N.

Want to explore one of these cracks, SPHP? We’re here now!

Might as well see how high we can get, Loop!

A faint flicker of hope that maybe there really was a way to the top of Peak 6057 stirred as Lupe entered a narrow passage. That would be so awesome!

A short climb, and Lupe reached a spot that was a dead end for her, but after giving the Carolina Dog a boost, SPHP scrambled up, too.

This is so cool! It keeps going, SPHP!

It does, but be careful, Loopster, and don’t get too far ahead. Might easily come to a sheer drop in here.

At the **upper end of the crack**. Photo looks NW.

Lupe quickly reached the top of the crack. No sheer drop. No route to Peak 6057‘s summit, either. Beyond its high point, the crack widened out, revealing a view of Elkhorn Mountain (6,440 ft.), another giant knob of granite.

**Elkhorn Mountain** (R of Center). Photo looks WNW.

**Elkhorn Mountain** (L). Its **N shoulder** (Center & R). Photo looks WNW.

And that was it. Standing there at the upper end of the crack, Lupe was done. The American Dingo couldn’t go any higher.

How far below the summit do you think we are, SPHP?

Hard to say, Loop. Your GPS track claims we’re at 5,927 feet, which agrees pretty well with the topo map, but neither one’s completely accurate.

130 feet below Peak 6057’s summit then? Well, we can still get there, SPHP. All you have to do is rent us a helicopter!

Yeah, guess that should have been the plan all along. Not happening today, no helicopter rentals around here. Getting late, anyway. We better find our way back to Centennial Trail No. 89, Loopster. No sense in getting ourselves stranded way out here on a January night!

A short scramble down to the SW from the wide end of the crack was an incredible jumble of boulders and deadfall.

Starting the descent after going all the way through the crack. Photo looks S.

Couple more things before we go, Loopster. Let’s head SW far enough to get a photo of Peak 6057 from that direction since this side was our best shot at finding a way to the top. From the end of the crack, I also caught a glimpse of Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) way off to the SW. Maybe we can find a spot with a clearer view of it, too?

Despite all the snow and deadfall, Lupe soon completed both missions.

**Peak 6057’s SW face**. Photo looks NE.

Another look for all you ambitious rock climbers out there! Photo looks NE.

**Black Elk Peak** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks SW.

The Peak 6057 mystery had been solved as far as Lupe was concerned, but her Black Elk Wilderness adventure wasn’t over yet. Exploring W, then N, through the snowy woods, the return to Centennial Trail No. 89 was a scenic and more challenging endeavor than expected.

Eventually heading NE down a long, surprisingly rugged valley, progress was awfully slow.

Still exploring during the return. Photo looks NW.

Descending into the **valley NW of Peak 6057**. Photo looks N.

Down in the valley, on the way back to Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks NNE.

Light was fading fast, when Lupe came to an unexpected ancient trail running through the forest. This clearly wasn’t Centennial Trail No. 89, but greatly helped speed SPHP’s progress.

5:04 PM, dusk at Pine Creek – Suddenly, it was over. Lupe was standing on Centennial Trail No. 89, a veritable super highway through the Black Elk Wilderness.

Back on **Centennial Trail No. 89** in the **Pine Creek valley**. Photo looks NE.

Hah! Great job! We made it, Looper.

We always do, SPHP.

Yeah, in this business everyone bats 1,000, until one day you don’t.

The rest was easy. Lupe followed Centennial Trail No. 89 back to where she’d left it, then retraced her earlier route back to Horse Thief Lake.

6:09 PM, 37ºF – Emerging at the Horse Thief Lake trailhead, crusty snow crunched beneath SPHP’s boots. Moonlight streamed over the access road as Lupe trotted back to the RAV4 while the silent stars glittered overhead. At long last, Peak 6057 was done.

**S of Peak 6057**, Black Elk Wilderness, Black Hills of South Dakota 1-21-24

Links:

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Lupe’s Scrollable Peak 6057 GPS Track

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 249 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Big Pine to Iron Creek Horse Camp (4-20-19)

Start – 7:47 AM, 61°F, Big Pine trailhead of Centennial Trail No. 89 near Horsethief Lake, Hwy 244

Hard to believe more than 4 months had already flown by since Lupe had last been on Centennial Trail No. 89! Even harder to believe that the last time she’d done this particular section of it was more than 7 years ago. Lupe hadn’t even been 15 months old back on Expedition No. 10. Not likely she remembered any of it now. Going from the Big Pine trailhead to the Iron Creek Horse Camp was going to seem like a whole brand new experience.

*Today we’ll be heading S from Big Pine through the Black Elk Wilderness to the Iron Creek Horse Camp. Almost 9 miles one way!*

In any event, Loopster was all fired up! As soon as SPHP was ready, she crossed Hwy 244 and hit the trail. Centennial Trail No. 89 wound WSW through typical pine forest. Most of the time Lupe was gaining elevation gradually. She passed by some rock formations fairly early on.

Rock formations not far from the Big Pine trailhead.

After 0.75 mile, Lupe came to a junction with Willow Creek Rushmore Trail No. 5. A map of the local trail system was here, plus a registration station for the Black Elk Wilderness. SPHP registered for Lupe, and she continued on.

At the junction with Trail No. 5. Centennial Trail No. 89 continues on past the map.

Leaving the junction, Centennial Trail No. 89 climbed steadily. 0.25 mile brought Lupe to a sign at the edge of the Black Elk Wilderness. Beyond this sign, the trail made a couple of switchbacks up to a minor pass. On both sides of a wide path, the forest was tightly packed with dog hair pines, so SPHP brilliantly named this pass Dog Hair Pass.

Dog Hair Pass was the first significant high point of the day. Lupe had gained 261 feet of elevation since leaving the Big Pine trailhead.

At the start of the **Black Elk Wilderness**.

From Dog Hair Pass, Centennial Trail No. 89 gradually descended S into a remote valley. Dead trees had fallen across the trail in some places. At one point, a tiny stream trickled right on the trail. Lupe began getting glimpses of big rock formations, especially toward the E. The Carolina Dog eventually came to a larger stream. This was Pine Creek.

*Some deadfall here due to an old pine bark beetle infestation, but it’s not too bad.*

*A tiny stream is flowing right over this stretch of trail.*

*Lots of big rock formations around, but most are fairly well hidden by the forest.*

After crossing Pine Creek, Centennial Trail No. 89 followed the stream E. Lupe saw more rock formations. She crossed a little tributary stream. The trail then curved N. A wall of rock appeared on the other side of Pine Creek shortly before Lupe came to a larger tributary.

A rock formation with a hollow spot underneath.

Crossing a small tributary of Pine Creek.

This wall of rock appeared shortly before Loop reached a larger tributary.

This larger tributary was as far downstream as Centennial Trail No. 89 was going to follow Pine Creek, and the first significant low point. Lupe had lost nearly 240 feet of elevation since leaving Dog Hair Pass. Her net elevation gain to this point was only about 21 feet. As the crow flies, she hadn’t actually gotten very far from the trailhead yet, either, less than a mile, due to the circuitous route the trail had taken.

Lupe crossed the larger tributary of Pine Creek. Centennial Trail No. 89 started climbing again following the tributary upstream.

At the first significant low point in the Pine Creek valley. Centennial Trail No. 89 follows this tributary upstream from here.

Staying N of the creek, the trail climbed E at a fairly good clip for a little way. The creek then turned S, and Centennial Trail No. 89 did, too. The valley leveled out for 0.25 mile or more. Lupe crossed the tributary of Pine Creek twice along in here. After the second crossing, the trail immediately left the stream behind and climbed E up a long slope to the next minor pass.

This second pass was also a significant high point along the trail, and was also heavily forested with a bunch of dog hair pines. However, SPHP didn’t think naming every pass Dog Hair Pass No. 1, No. 2, etc. was such a good idea. Quite cleverly, with hardly any mental effort at all, SPHP came up with Short Pine Pass as a suitable designation. No doubt Lupe was impressed, but she didn’t actually say so.

Lupe had gained 280 feet of elevation on the way from the low point at Pine Creek up to Short Pine Pass, bringing her net elevation gain to 301 feet.

At the first of two crossings of the tributary after leaving Pine Creek.

Looking back after leaving the tributary behind.

From Short Pine Pass, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound down into a ravine where the tops of trees killed by pine bark beetles had been snapped off in high winds. This did open up the views a bit. Lupe could see larger rock formations off to the SE now.

Bigger rock formations SE of Short Pines Pass.

The American Dingo was coming to an area she had been to many times before, a short section of Centennial Trail No. 89 that is shared with Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14.

At the junction with Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14.

*Turn L at this junction with Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 to stay on Centennial Trail No. 89.*

Upon reaching Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14, Lupe turned L (NE). Two minutes on the shared trail brought her to where the trails divided again. To the L, Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 went straight to Horsethief Lake and Hwy 244, a major shortcut back to the Big Pine trailhead.

Going to Horsethief Lake would have completed a nice loop, but that wasn’t the plan. Loopster went R, sticking with Centennial Trail No. 89. Almost immediately after making the turn, she came to a small stream. This little stream was the 2nd significant low point. Lupe was about 190 feet lower here than at Short Pines Pass, reducing her net elevation gain to 111 feet.

At the next trail junction, only a couple of minutes from the first one. Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 goes off to the L. Centennial Trail No. 89 bends around to the R.

*Go around this bend to the R to stick with Centennial Trail No. 89!*

*Centennial Trail No. 89 crosses this tiny creek right after leaving Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14.*

The trail now began climbing steadily again. Not too long after crossing the tiny creek, Lupe passed by a very tall granite spire. Beyond the spire, the trail led SE up a long valley. Near the upper end, Lupe came to a few mild switchbacks before reaching a 3rd significant high point. Since the trees were bigger here, but not enormous, SPHP designated this spot Medium Pines Pass.

*Welcome to **Medium Pines Pass**, at 5,500 feet the highest point on Centennial Trail No. 89 between Big Pine and the Iron Creek Horse Camp!*

Medium Pines Pass is the highest point along Centennial Trail No. 89 between Big Pine and the Iron Creek Horse Camp. Lupe was now at 5,500 feet, a gain of 310 feet from the little creek near the last junction with Horsethief Lake Tail No. 14, and 421 feet higher than the Big Pine trailhead where she’d started out.

Beyond Medium Pines Pass, the trail continued SE on a steady descent into the next valley. Large rock formations capped hills to the E. Lupe came to a big granite boulder right next to the trail. She got up onto it for a better look.

Granite formations capping hills E of the trail.

Past the boulder, a long set of stairs wound deeper into the valley. Below the stairs, the trail continued lower, but not as steeply. Looper came to another tiny stream, which she promptly plopped herself into to cool off. After crossing this stream, the trail followed it lower for a while before unexpectedly curving away to the W, climbing perhaps 150 feet to yet another pass.

Rock formations visible E of the trail before it curved away to Deadfall Pass.

Deadfall Pass was the 4th high point Lupe had come to, but didn’t seem as significant as the others. The trail was soon descending again, but at an easy pace interspersed with flat stretches. Lupe had been going SW on the way over Deadfall Pass, but beyond it the trail gradually curved around to the SE again while winding along forested slopes. More tiny streams appeared, so small they were almost certainly seasonal.

Eventually the trail turned NE, and dropped down to a larger stream, which was often heard, but seldom seen. Impressive granite formations were in this area, especially to the N. Lupe came to a small pond.

Another tiny stream. The trail crossed several along in here.

This pond might be seasonal, but seemed deep enough to be around most of the time.

A short distance past the pond, the trail bent around to the S. It wasn’t much farther to another intersection. A sign indicated Lupe had reached a spur trail leading to Mount Rushmore.

The trail on the L is a spur coming in from Mount Rushmore. Lupe kept going straight on the R past the mossy log.

Ignoring the spur to Mount Rushmore, Lupe kept heading S. She was still going down the same valley Centennial Trail No. 89 had been in for a while now. The stream in this valley had grown in size, but was still small enough to easily step or leap over as the trail crossed it twice.

Crossing the stream S of the spur to Mount Rushmore.

The second crossing came just before Lupe reached a confluence with another even bigger creek. Since this confluence wasn’t too far off the trail, Lupe went over to have a look at it. She was now at 4,860 feet, the lowest point she would come to today, having lost 640 feet since leaving Medium Pines Pass. The Carolina Dog had made it to Grizzly Bear Creek.

At the confluence of the stream Lupe had been following with **Grizzly Bear Creek**.

Returning to Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe continued S. 100 feet brought her to a ford. This ford was no more than a couple of feet deep, but far too wide to leap over. Not anxious to get wet feet, SPHP looked for a drier way across. A few boulders 40 feet upstream did the trick.

More than 4 hours had shot by since Lupe left the Big Pine trailhead. Grizzly Bear Creek was a beautiful spot to take a little break. Once over the stream, Lupe and SPHP relaxed for a bit on a big rock.

The rest break next to Grizzly Bear Creek was pleasant, but couldn’t be allowed to drag on too long. The Carolina Dog was soon on her way S again. Centennial Trail No. 89 climbed gradually at first, but before long Grizzly Bear Creek veered off to the W. Lupe found herself going up a side canyon on one of the most aggressive climbs of the day.

By the time Lupe reached Rushmore Pass, she was 320 feet higher than the low point she had just left at Grizzly Bear Creek. Up at the pass, the trail briefly curved E and entered a 40 foot wide clearing.

Not much could be seen from the clearing, but a hill NE of it provided a view. Temporarily leaving the trail, Lupe scrambled up to some rocks from which Mount Rushmore (5,725 ft.) was in sight.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

Only Washington and Lincoln are visible from this angle. Photo looks N.

From Rushmore Pass, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued S, once again steadily losing elevation. After a while, Loopster came to a big granite formation on the L (E) partly surrounded by a swamp. SPHP had little recollection of what Lupe had seen so far today from back when she had been here 7 years ago, but this rock did seem vaguely familiar. The area seemed more overgrown than what SPHP recalled, but was probably the same spot.

This rock deserved a name! How about Forgotten Rock? Sounded better than Dimly Remembered Rock.

**Forgotten Rock**! Don’t worry, there isn’t going to be a test. You can forget it, too!

The trail went on and on. From Forgotten Rock, Lupe followed a small stream uphill, crossing the stream twice before it disappeared. A spindly forest grew at another minor pass where there was a small sunny spot. SPHP dubbed this one Nowhere Pass. Nowhere Pass turned out to be hardly a pass at all. A little farther on, Lupe reached South Deadfall Pass, which was slightly higher.

Another descent, but a minor one. The trail curved to the R and crossed “Muck Creek”. Centennial Trail No. 89 climbed again. At last Lupe came to a place she had been to less than 2.5 years ago, an intersection with Centennial Bypass Trail No. 89B. Lupe had accidentally come this way from Iron Mountain (5,446 ft.) on Expedition No. 184 while looking for Peak 5688.

*Ever feel like you’ve been in a rut?* Lupe S of South Deadfall Pass.

*Here we are at lovely **“Muck Creek”**!*

*Oh, I remember this spot! SPHP missed a turn and I wound up here on Expedition No. 184. Not going this way today!*

Bypassing Centennial Bypass Trail No. 89B, a short trek brought Loop to yet another pass. Bypass Pass seemed like a silly, but appropriate name. How many of these goofy passes were there going to be anyway? Even SPHP was starting to lose track of them all.

Centennial Trail No. 89 continued S from Bypass Pass on a long gentle decline. Having been here so recently, SPHP knew exactly where Lupe was going to come out – Confusion Point!

Confusion Point was another trail intersection, but an unmarked one. Way back on Expedition No. 10, SPHP hadn’t known which way to go. Now it was understood that Confusion Point was one end of another short section of shared trail, this time with Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7. When Lupe got to Confusion Point, SPHP had her turn L (E) toward a huge granite spire.

The shared section of trail began heading E toward the spire. It quickly curved SE revealing a wide passage between massive walls of granite. Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 went through that passage, but Centennial Trail No. 89 split off to the R, resuming its course S. A sign was present, but not terribly conspicuous. It would have been easy to miss this turn, if Lupe hadn’t been here before.

Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 goes straight on through the wide passage ahead. Centennial Trail No. 89 splits off to the R just beyond Lupe.

Centennial Trail No. 89 right after it leaves Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7.

Lupe had made tremendous progress! Only 1.25 miles left to the Iron Creek Horse Camp!

Leaving Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 behind, Lupe climbed 50 or 60 feet in a fairly short distance. At the high point, newly nicknamed Confusion Pass, there was a rock formation immediately to the R of Centennial Trail No. 89. Loop got up onto it. She had a good view of some of the big granite formations she had just gone by, and could see Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), the highest mountain in South Dakota, too.

Rock formations in the **Confusion Pass** region.

*There’s **Black Elk Peak** (Center)!* Photo looks NW.

Another descent began from Confusion Pass. Lupe came to a low area where a stream wound through a grassy field. Out in the middle sat a big rock formation. This was it! This was the rock formation that SPHP had been thinking of earlier at Forgotten Rock. No wonder Forgotten Rock hadn’t looked quite the same! It wasn’t.

Forgotten Rock could keep its name. SPHP truly hadn’t remembered it at all. The rock Lupe was at now could be Memory Rock, since there had at least been some recollection of it. Yeah, that made sense!

*There’s **Memory Rock**! Guess a few brain cells are still functioning.*

At **Memory Rock** less than a mile from the Iron Creek Horse Camp. Forgotten Rock is considerably farther N.

Centennial Trail No. 89 climbed again. Off to the NW were glimpses of higher mountains, but no clear views. Making short forays off-trail, Lupe had better luck seeing some lesser, but still interesting formations much closer by.

Rugged territory by Black Hills standards to the NW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

The trail dropped again, but Lupe didn’t have an awful lot farther to go. She came to another good-sized stream. Iron Creek! Possible to rock hop it today, but just barely.

*We’ve finally made it to **Iron Creek**!*

Looking back after crossing **Iron Creek**.

The trail made one more 75 foot climb before descending to a road. Lupe had made it all the way through the Black Elk Wilderness! She passed a brand new Black Elk Wilderness sign on the way down. More maps were posted at the road.

*Good job! We’ve made it all the way through the Black Elk Wilderness! Spiffy new sign, aye?*

After a quick look at the maps, Lupe and SPHP followed the road down to a bridge over Iron Creek. On the other side of the bridge, Lupe came to the Iron Creek Horse Camp. This early in the season, the horse camp was closed. Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around the loop anyway. No people, and sadly for Lupe, no horses.

At the far end of the loop, Lupe passed the start of Norbeck Trail No. 3, most of which goes through the SW part of the Black Elk Wilderness. The highlight of the whole horse camp tour was a bright orange bird which flitted by, came to rest in a tree for 20 seconds, then flitted away. SPHP had never seen a bird like it before.

Success! Lupe reaches the **Iron Creek Horse Camp**.

**Iron Creek Horse Camp** would be even better with horses!

This bright orange bird was striking, but Lupe would have been more impressed with a bright orange squirrel.

And that was it. 8 hours after leaving the Big Pine trailhead, Lupe set out from Iron Creek Horse Camp, this time heading N on Centennial Trail No. 89. Already 4:00 PM! SPHP was certain the American Dingo wouldn’t get back until well after dark.

However, Lupe had an option. Instead of repeating the entire trudge over all those countless passes on Centennial Trail No. 89, at Confusion Point she could take Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 instead. This maneuver worked out perfectly! The Carolina Dog saw territory she had never seen before. Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 was easy, too! Much straighter, with far less up and down than Centennial Trail No. 89.

The first of many tiny cattail ponds along Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7.

Lupe made rapid progress. When she reached the S end of Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14, she took it all the way to Horsethief Lake. Arriving at the lake before dark, a short stroll through the campground to Hwy 244 was all that remained to return to the Big Pine trailhead. (7:28 PM, 59°F)

Even though Lupe had climbed to 5,660 feet on Horsethief Trail No. 14, she’d made it all the way back to Big Pine in only 3.5 hours! No stars, no moon, no long march in the dark.

That was OK! Lupe had explored all of Centennial Trail No. 89 between Big Pine and the Iron Mountain Horse Camp. In 11.5 hours, she’d made a big figure 8 through the heart of the Black Elk Wilderness. It had all been fun! What sounded like fun now, though, was a ride home to her Alpo and a long snooze.

Evening at **Horsethief Lake**, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-20-18

Notes: Big Pine trailhead and the Iron Creek Horse Camp are at roughly the same elevation. Estimated total elevation gain (and loss) going from Big Pine to Iron Creek Horse Camp on Centennial Trail No. 89 is 1,781 feet. Elevation gain (and loss) via Lupe’s return route on the Grizzly Creek and Horsethief Lake trails was only 964 feet. Total gain (loss) of 2,745 feet round trip.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Next Trail Section North

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 130 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Samelius to Big Pine & Horsethief Lake (5-23-15)

Next Trail Section South

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 272 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Iron Creek Horse Camp to Badger Hole (4-1-21)

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 74 – Willow Creek to Sylvan Lake (1-19-14)

Willow Creek Horse Camp, Norbeck Wildlife Preserve (10:28 AM, 49°F)

At last! Grandma was doing lots better, and it was an amazingly warm day for January. For the first time in a month and a day, Lupe was heading out on one of her Black Hills expeditions – her first of 2014. A few inches of snow only served to make the Carolina Dog even more joyous and revved up! Not a soul was around as she charged ahead on Willow Creek Trail No. 8, sniffing madly.

The trail went S through a forest of tall pines and spruce trees. It wound around going up and down before crossing small, frozen Willow Creek. Across the creek, the trail divided. One branch went S up the creek valley, the other turned NW and quickly brought Lupe to a cul-de-sac at the end of a gravel road.

Lupe’s ultimate objective for the day was to reach Sylvan Lake, which she had never been to before. Somewhere around here, Loop was supposed to take Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, but there were no signs indicating which way to go. A rather primitive trail headed SW from the cul-de-sac. Since that was the right general direction, Lupe and SPHP tried it.

The primitive trail gained elevation steadily. At first, a few footprints in the snow helped show where the trail went, but they ended at a large clearing where the snow became deeper. Lupe and SPHP had to guess which way to go. Continuing SW across the open ground toward the next part of the forest seemed to be the thing to do.

Near the trees, Lupe found the trail again. As expected, it did head into the forest. There was less snow here, but quite a few dead trees had fallen across the trail. The situation only became worse as Lupe proceeded. The deadfall timber slowed SPHP down significantly.

After a little while winding through the forest, Lupe reached another intersection where the trail divided. The trail heading S started climbing more steeply up the mountain. The trail going N was less steep. It went toward a less heavily forested hillside where it curved W. SPHP wasn’t sure which way to go, but tried the trail to the N.

As the trail turned W, it became apparent why this hillside wasn’t as heavily forested. Pine bark beetles had decimated the trees. Lots of tree trunks were still standing, but the upper portions of the trees had snapped entirely off the trunks. The trail was covered with deadfall timber. The snow was deeper here, too. It was slow going fighting both the deadfall and the snow. Lupe and SPHP spent far more time off the trail trying to get around all the obstacles than on it.

Fortunately, this bad stretch of trail didn’t last long. After 0.25 mile, Lupe came to a footbridge crossing Palmer Creek. A long field paralleled the creek on the other side of the bridge. Across the field, the trail ended at the Palmer Creek trailhead. A map posted at the trailhead showed that Lupe had been on Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 at least since leaving the cul-de-sac. However, the last 0.25 mile of difficult trail leading to this trailhead was only a spur. Lupe would have to retrace it to continue S on up the mountain.

Looking SW up the Palmer Creek valley from near the footbridge.

So Lupe followed the spur trail back across the field, over the bridge, and all the way back to the trail junction. This time she took Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 going S up the mountain. The trail entered a more heavily forested area again as it started climbing rapidly. The snow deepened. Deadfall timber continued to block the trail at regular intervals, but wasn’t as bad as on the spur trail.

Lupe climbed for what seemed like a long time. On the way, she entered the Black Elk Wilderness. The views were steadily improving. Finally the trail leveled out. Lupe had reached a high, rocky area, part of a massive ridge of granite. Lupe left the trail temporarily to explore the rock formations and take in some of the views from here.

Lupe left Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 to explore among the rocks on this big granite ridge. The long ridge with high points at both ends seen in the distance a little R of Center is **Zimmer Ridge (6,600 ft.)**. Photo looks WNW.

Although Lupe had gained hundreds of feet of elevation, she could still see other peaks and ridges that were just as high or higher than where she was now. She returned to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 to resume her climb.

The trail continued steadily up for a while, but eventually crested at a broad saddle near 6,350 ft. elevation. Due to pine bark beetles, the forest here was a mess. However, the devastation had opened up a view of a rocky high point just to the E.

This seemed like a good place to take a break. SPHP sat on one of the many fallen tree trunks near the trail. Lupe enjoyed Taste of the Wild, SPHP had the usual apple, and both had water.

Lupe reached the crest of Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 at this saddle 0.33 mile NE of **Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.)**. The rocky hill seen here is E of the trail. Photo looks E.

After 15 minutes, SPHP’s feet started getting cold. Time to press on and get the circulation going again! Lupe continued S on the trail. It wound around through the forest, but was no longer gaining elevation. Farther along, the forest was in much better condition. The pine bark beetles hadn’t hit it nearly so hard here.

As Lupe continued S on Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, the forest was in better condition.

About 1.5 miles from the break point at the saddle, Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 left the Black Elk Wilderness and ended at a junction with Harney Peak Trail No. 9. At 6,405 feet, this was the highest elevation Lupe would reach all day.

Lupe wasn’t going all the way to Harney Peak (7,242 ft.). Instead, she turned SW on Harney Peak Trail No. 9 in the direction of Sylvan Lake. The trail would take her 0.75 mile down a valley to the Sylvan Lake trailhead, Custer State Park’s most popular starting point for the 3+ mile hike (one way) to Harney Peak.

Trail No. 9 was snow-packed, icy and very slippery. Even though it’s a wide, heavily traveled trail and not particularly steep, the going was treacherous for SPHP. The day was warm enough to melt some snow, allowing water to run over the ice. The ice, however, had hardly softened up at all. The wet ice was super slick. Even an American Dingo slipped and slid in some places.

Lupe had never been here before, but SPHP had. The valley along the trail had been transformed since the last time SPHP had seen it. Apparently pine bark beetles had hit hard. Consequently, bulldozers had been all over the NW side of the valley completing the destruction. The forest had been severely thinned. A once shady hike beneath tall pines and spruce was now far more open and exposed.

The damaged hillsides looked bad. On the plus side, it was much easier than it used to be to see some of the large rock formations on the SE side of the valley.

With so many beetle killed trees removed, views of large rock formations across the valley from Harney Peak Trail No. 9 on the way to Sylvan Lake were much better than they used to be. Photo looks SSE.

A surprising number of people were around when Lupe reached Sylvan Lake. A dozen cars were parked near the lake close to the picnic ground. Lupe and SPHP went over to the small sandy beach on the NE side of the lake. Nearly all the large beautiful pines that used to provide shade around the perimeter were gone. It was a sad sight.

Close to the beach, Lupe climbed up on a big granite formation that juts out into Sylvan Lake. The beautiful scenes looking across the lake from here were unchanged.

Lupe had made it to Sylvan Lake, but winter days are short. The sun was already getting low. Going back the way Lupe had come was not a good idea. Too many parts of the trail had been hidden under deadfall timber. Losing the trail on a winter night was not an option. Although it was 6 miles back to the G6 taking Hwy 87 and Palmer Creek Road, that was the only smart choice.

Lupe and SPHP left the rock formation and went down to the beach, intending to go around the S end of the lake to get to Hwy 87. However, the ice on Sylvan Lake looked thick. Lupe could just walk across to the W side of the lake! Why not?

The ice was full of cracks and fissures as Lupe started out, but felt solid. Lupe went W staying close to the granite formation she had been up on moments ago. She could see people out on the ice near the opposite shore.

Coming around a corner near the rocks, SPHP was surprised to see open water at the edge of the rock formation 30 feet ahead! The sight of open water was unexpected and worrisome, but the ice was still very thick and firm where Lupe was. The Carolina Dog continued across the lake, but swung wide to the S around the small patch of open water.

Lupe reached the W shore of Sylvan Lake without incident.

After crossing frozen Sylvan Lake, Lupe reaches the W shore. Photo looks N.

With the sun sinking fast, people were heading for their cars to go home. Lupe went N on the trail along the W shore of the lake.

Lupe on the trail on the W shore of Sylvan Lake. Photo looks N.

At the NW end of Sylvan Lake near the dam, the trail passes through a narrow gap between huge vertical rock formations. The gap is almost like a tunnel. Large boulders can be seen wedged into the top of the gap above. Lupe went through the gap.

On the other side, Lupe could have gone down beneath the dam that forms Sylvan Lake, but she needed to get to the highway. She took a trail W, passing below more large granite formations.

Walls of granite like this one are typical of the Sylvan Lake area.

SPHP thought Lupe might take the Sunday Gulch trail part of the way back, but missed the turn for it. Lupe arrived at Hwy 87 close Sylvan Lake Lodge.

The sun was still up as the American Dingo trotted N on Hwy 87, but she was in the shade of Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) all the way. The highway wound its way steadily down the mountain. Lupe passed through a short granite tunnel. Now and then cars or pickup trucks went by. The temperature was dropping, but Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the trek in the cool mountain air.

While still high up, Lupe saw deer. A few miles later, down in the valley, she saw horses. They kept the journey interesting. When the Carolina Dog reached the turn onto gravel Palmer Creek Road, she took it. Now there was no traffic. The final glow of sunset faded. Lupe passed the access road to the Palmer Creek trailhead.

Stars glittered above in the black night sky by the time Lupe reached Hwy 244. The turn for the Willow Creek Horse Camp wasn’t far now. Before long, a tired, but happy Carolina Dog arrived at the G6 (5:57 PM, 34°F).

Expedition No. 74 was over. Lupe’d had a wonderful time sniffing and exploring new places she’d never been to before. She’d made it all the way to Sylvan Lake, and even walked across the frozen lake. It felt great to be back in action, especially knowing that this was only a start to the many fantastic adventures she would have in 2014!

The final glow of sunset faded away as Lupe traveled Palmer Creek Road.

Willow Creek Horse Camp where Willow Creek Trail No. 8 originates is located off Hwy 224 about 5 miles W of Mount Rushmore, and 3 miles W of Horsethief Lake. The turn is on the S side of the highway a little E of the Palmer Gulch KOA.

The Palmer Creek trailhead where the spur to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 originates is located off Palmer Creek Road, which can be approached from Hwy 244 a little W of the Palmer Gulch KOA, or Hwy 87 about 3 or 4 miles N of Sylvan Lake.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out her Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!