Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 316 – Peak 5321 (10-6-23)

10-5-23, 3:30 PM – Oh, happy day!  Uncle Joe, Aunt Andrea, and new Cousin Dixie were here, newly arrived from Colorado, and destined to spend the next few days at Hotel Lupe!  The American Dingo greeted them all with great enthusiasm, then sort of played with Dixie, mostly watching as her Aussie Shepherd cousin tore around the living room.

Lupe was astounded by new Cousin Dixie’s appearance!  Only 3 months ago, Dixie had been a mere puppy – cute and fuzzy, and with an already over-developed and rather annoying herding instinct.  Since then, Dixie had been completely transformed!  Now she was nearly as big as Lupe, and a whirlwind of energy.

All that new Cousin Dixie energy had to go somewhere!  Fortunately, this evening it suddenly dawned on Dixie how her Carolina Dog cousin was able to pass through walls like magic.  A doggie door!  Once Dixie caught on to how it worked, she was as bad as a cat, letting herself in and out at will to race around the back yard whenever she pleased.  Best idea ever!

10-6-23, 10:06 AM, USFS Road No. 144.1A –  The Hotel Lupe doggie door to the back yard served as a release for some of Dixie’s hyper-activity, but wasn’t a complete solution by any means.  However, a Black Hills, SD expedition might do the trick!

The morning air was clean, clear, and on the crisp side when everyone, minus Aunt Andrea, who had gone to spend the day with Grandma, piled out of the RAV4 at the start of USFS Road No. 144.1A.  Lupe and Dixie were both excited, and couldn’t wait to get started.

Start of USFS Road No. 144.1A, about a mile NE of Nemo. Photo looks SSW.

During Dixie’s first ever visit to the Black Hills at the end of June, she’d had fun on 3 mini-expeditions with Lupe.  Now that Dixie was 5 months old, Lupe figured she ought to give her energetic cousin an introduction to peakbagging.

SPHP had suggested Peak 5321 as an easy objective.  With less than 300 feet of elevation gain required during a mere 1.4 mile, mostly road hike, approach, Dixie’s first ascent attempt would be a guaranteed success!  The journey began with a 0.5 mile romp along USFS Road No. 144.1A.

Off to a good start on USFS Road No. 144.1A. Photo looks W.

This easy jaunt got Dixie to a broad minor pass.  USFS Road No. 144.1A veered off to the SE here.  An unmarked road not shown on the maps that branched off to the R was actually the way to go.

At the broad, flat pass where USFS Road No. 144.1A heads off to the L. The road angling R was the way to go. Photo looks S.
Joe and Dixie continuing along the unmarked road. Photo looks SSW.

Traversing the W slopes of HP5243, the road gradually gained elevation before turning SW and flattening out.  Much to Lupe’s dismay, by now it was clear that Dixie hadn’t gotten over her annoying herding instincts at all.  The American Dingo did her best to try not to let it get to her.  Most of the time, everyone was in fine spirits on this beautiful early autumn day, but with some regularity, Lupe couldn’t help growling or snapping at her bossy new cousin.

Dixie, of course, was completely unfazed.  The herding went on.

At the curve where the road turned SW. Photo looks SW.

From the turn SW, Ash Point, established by the “Yogi Clan” in memory of Shirley and Sonya at the edge of a cliff, was only another 0.33 mile.

10-6-23, 10:34 AM – In addition to a terrific view of Nemo hundreds of feet below, Ash Point featured views of both Green Top (5,360 ft.) and White Mansion (5,340 ft.) 3 miles NW, with Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) and Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) on the horizon.

Not trusting Dixie’s puppy exuberance near a cliff, Joe prudently kept her leashed up.

Dingo’s eye view of Nemo from Ash Point. Custer Peak (far R). Photo looks W.
Terry Peak (L), Green Top (R), White Mansion (far R). Photo looks NW.
White Mansion (L) from Ash Point. Photo looks N.

The Yogi Clan had thoughtfully provided a bench so visitors can relax while enjoying the lovely Ash Point views.  However, the Carolina Dog merely stood on it for a minute or two before leaping off.  Joe and Dixie then demonstrated how to make better use of a bench.

Lupe on the Ash Point bench.
Joe and Dixie show Lupe how it’s done.

Peak 5321’s summit was only 0.25 mile SSE of Ash Point.  However, the road soon curved way E of it on its way S, so Lupe led everyone off into the forest, taking a direct route up a gentle slope.

Heading straight through the forest in search of the summit. Photo looks SE.

10-6-23, 10:50 AM, 47ºF, Peak 5321 – A large flat region buried in trees and full of deadfall, Peak 5321 admittedly wasn’t all that scintillating as summits go.  At least there was a sunny semi-clearing, the deadfall made reasonably good seats, and there was no edge nearby that Dixie might inadvertently hurtle herself over.

Dixie was bummed that she didn’t get to share in the chocolate coconut bars that Joe, Lupe, and SPHP all enjoyed in honor of her first official Black Hills peak ascent, but she readily accepted Taste of the Wild and water as a consolation prize.

Blinking in the sun on Peak 5321’s flat, deadfall-strewn summit. Photo looks NNE.
Taking a break on Peak 5321. Photo looks SE.

With no summit views, there wasn’t much reason to linger after a short break.  However, Ash Point wasn’t the only viewpoint in this general vicinity.  On a prior expedition, Lupe had discovered that American Point was less than another 0.25 mile SW along the same line of cliffs.

Dixie and Joe were both willing to check it out.  Heading S to pick up the unmarked road again, it led right to American Point.

On the way to American Point. Photo looks SW.

10-6-23, 11:27 AM, American Point – Oh, yeah!  The cheerful American Flag was still here, waving all red, white and blue in the breeze.  From a larger limestone platform above the cliffs than the one at Ash Point, the views were similar here, although oriented more toward the SW.  It was now possible to see Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) far to the S.

At American Point. Black Elk Peak (L) on the horizon. Photo looks SSW.
Nemo from American Point. Custer Peak (L) and Terry Peak (R) of the flag. Photo looks NW.
Joe, Dixie, and Lupe at American Point. White Mansion (Center). Photo look NNW.
Together by the flag. Custer Peak (R of Center), Photo looks WNW.

After hanging out near the American flag admiring the views, that was about it for Cousin Dixie’s first ever Black Hills peakbagging experience.  The return involved only a pleasant march back along the unmarked road to USFS Road No. 144.1A, and thence on to the RAV4.

Peak 5321 with its nearby Ash Point and American Peak viewpoints had been a nice outing.  Even better, with Uncle Joe and Cousin Dixie still checked in at Hotel Lupe, another Black Hills adventure was sure to be on the agenda tomorrow!  (End 10-6-23, 12:23 PM)

Final moments at American Point. Photo looks S.
Back at the start, enjoying the fall colors with Uncle Joe.
Dixie & Lupe’s Peak 5321 GPS track.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                   Prior Black Hills Expedition

Dixie & Lupe’s Scrollable Peak 5321 GPS Track

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 291 – Peak 4980, Peak 5361 & Peak 5321 (1-17-21)

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New Cousin Dixie! (6-29-23 to 7-2-23)

6-29-23, 3:00 PM – Lupe’s fabulous 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico had ended only yesterday.  So many chores to catch up on!  SPHP was still mowing the back yard when Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea arrived.

Of course, Hotel Lupe’s long standing policy is that humans stay free as long as they are accompanied by a responsible canine.  Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea came fully prepared.  For the first time ever, they’d brought new Cousin Dixie with them!  An AKC registered Australian Shepherd, Dixie was only a little over 2 months old.

New Cousin Dixie at home in Arvada, Colorado.

Lupe was barking with joy at Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea’s arrival, which initially scared Dixie a little.  That didn’t last!  Soon Dixie was trying to herd her big cousin and wanting to play.  Lupe didn’t quite know what to make of this new pipsqueak interloper, sometimes growling a warning, or even snapping at Dixie.

This is my new cousin, SPHP?  She’s cute enough, but so small, and rather … what shall I say? … annoying!

Dixie’s just a puppy, Loopster.

I’m a puppy, too, SPHP, but I’m not so… so… hyper!

Well, of course, you’re my Sweet Puppy, Loop, but Dixie is very young.  The whole world is brand new to her.  She’s full of energy and excited to learn all about everything, including you!  So be nice to Dixie.  She’ll grow up fast, and we’ll have lots of fun with her.

Do you think Dixie will want to go on any Black Hills, SD expeditions, SPHP?

Oh, I’m sure of it!  No doubt Uncle Joe will want to take Dixie up into the hills with us while they’re here for the next few days.  Dixie’s too little to go very far yet, but we’ll have a good time.

6-30-23 – SPHP was right.  New Cousin Dixie very much wanted to be an explorer, too!  After the whole gang enjoyed an early morning stroll through the park on the Geyser Loop, Aunt Andrea had eventually gone to spend the day with Grandma.  Uncle Joe and Dixie were free to head up into the hills, which was exactly what they wanted to do.

Where to, though?  Dixie’s first Black Hills, SD Mini-Expedition should be something quite easy.  SPHP suggested Centennial Trail No. 89.  The Deer Creek trailhead would be a good place to start.

At the Deer Creek trailhead with new Cousin Dixie.

6-30-23, 11:01 AM, Centennial Trail No. 89, Deer Creek trailhead – Upon arrival, Dixie was happy and enthusiastic, but at the same time seemed to realize she was about to embark on some serious business.

Mentor and mentee, about to set out on the first of many adventures together.

The plan was simple.  Everyone followed the spur trail leading from the Deer Creek trailhead up to the main Centennial Trail No. 89 route.  Once there, Dixie could explore S or N.

Dixie doing great, but soon began devoting most of her abundant energy toward herding Lupe.  The American Dingo did her best to ignore the pesky Aussie, often growling a warning.

Upon reaching the main trail, Dixie wound up going S.  Centennial Trail No. 89 soon crossed the road to Silver City, then proceeded gradually up the side of a forested valley to the junction with Deerfield Trail No. 40.  An unlikely new feature was here.  A silver disco ball was hanging over the junction.  Lupe and SPHP had never seen it before.

Sticking with Centennial Trail No. 89, Dixie continued S.  The trail went down into Smoker Gulch.  1.2 miles from the trailhead, Uncle Joe decided this was far enough for Dixie’s first Black Hills adventure.

Dixie on Centennial Trail No. 89.
Taking a break with Cousin Dixie.

The day was warm, the sky blue with puffy white clouds, and the grass, green and lush.  During a short rest break, Dixie became interested in digging, while Lupe ventured out into the tall grass.

Amid the tall grass in Smoker Gulch.

And that was it for Dixie’s first Black Hills, SD Mini-Expedition.  On the way back to the Deer Creek trailhead, Uncle Joe showed off his funky disco dancing form at the intersection with Deerfield Trail No. 40.

Heading back on Centennial Trail No. 89.
Dancing fool Uncle Joe beneath the disco ball.

7-1-23, 10:24 AM – This morning’s activities were similar to yesterday’s.  After an early morning group romp through the park, this time on the Downstream Loop, Aunt Andrea once again went to spend the day with Grandma.  Dixie, Uncle Joe, Lupe, and SPHP were now at Centennial Trail No. 89’s Rapid Creek trailhead below the Pactola Reservoir dam.

About to set out on Centennial Trail No. 89 from the Rapid Creek trailhead.

Heading SE toward the Tamarack trailhead, Centennial Trail No. 89 was flat as a pancake and on the verge of being overgrown.  Dixie displayed great courage crossing 2 bridges over Rapid Creek.  The big stream was running high, and Joe was quite impressed by what a great trout stream Rapid Creek appeared to be.

Joe and Dixie already over the first bridge.
Rapid Creek was running high, full bank to bank.

Dixie made it past the Tamarack trailhead all the way to USFS Road No. 165.1D in Tamarack Gulch before reaching a spot near an ancient cabin.  At this point, Uncle Joe said she’d gone far enough for a 2 month old puppy.  After a short rest break, it was time to head back to the Rapid Creek trailhead, once again about 1.2 miles away.

Dixie crossing the Rapid Creek bridge near the Tamarack trailhead during the return.

Another beautiful day, but Uncle Joe may have been right.  Constantly trying to herd your big Carolina Dog cousin is a lot of work.  Near the end, Cousin Dixie was starting to get tired.

Wildflowers along the way.
Dixie starting to feel weary.

Not to worry, though.  Uncle Joe to the rescue!

Dixie returning in style.

7-2-23 – The next day was nearly the same routine.  An early morning Geyser Loop stroll through the park, followed by another Black Hills, SD Mini-Expedition, this time from the end of Horse Creek Road to USFS Road No. 249.  Incredibly, SPHP somehow forgot to bring the camera.  Oops!  Nevertheless, everyone had a great time.

7-3-23, 6:55 AM – Hard to believe, but it was already time for Dixie, Aunt Andrea, and Uncle Joe to head back home to Arvada, Colorado.  While Uncle Joe was packing their car, Lupe and Dixie roamed the back yard, enjoying the soft green grass together.

Dixie and Lupe in the back yard.

7-3-23, 7:07 AMWell, they’re off, Loopster, on the way back to Colorado!  Thank you for not getting too snarly with Dixie.  I know your patience was being sorely tested at times.  So, what do you think of your new cousin?  Isn’t she darling?

No doubt Dixie means well, but she’s a herding fanatic, SPHP!  Do you have any idea how trying puppies can be?

Oh, really?  Tell me about it, Sweet Puppy!

New Cousin Dixie at 5 weeks old

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition              Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 323 – Peak 6057: A Black Elk Wilderness Adventure (1-21-24)

11:21 AM, 46ºF, Horse Thief Lake – Cabin fever!  That was what had been ailing Lupe all through a 10 day long cold snap of absolutely frigid weather, even for January.  However, that was all history now.  Going to be a nice day today, and the American Dingo was in high spirits as she leapt out of the RAV4.  A Black Hills expedition is a always a sure-fire cure for cabin fever!

Sheesh!  Checked the snow depth maps before we left home, Loopster.  Only supposed to be 2″ of snow up here.  Actually more like 6″!

Oh, please!  We’re still going, aren’t we, SPHP?  It’s been so boring at home!

Yeah, don’t worry, Loop.  We’re still going.  All this snow isn’t going to make things any easier, but we’ll be OK.

A short trek from the parking lot got the Carolina Dog to the start of Horse Thief Lake Trail No. 14.  SPHP barely glanced at a posted map of the Black Elk Wilderness trail system.  Lupe had been here plenty of times before.

Start of Horse Thief Lake Trail No. 14. Photo looks SSW.
Black Elk Wilderness trail system.

Well, you ready, Looper?  Days are mighty short in January, and we’re off to a rather late start.  It’s Onward!  Puppy, ho! time.

SPHP didn’t have to say it twice.  The American Dingo set off heading S on Horse Thief Lake Trail No. 14.  The first part of the trail climbed a bit.  Didn’t amount to much except that in some places the small stream that ran along the trail had flown over it and frozen into a sheet of ice.  Lupe did fine, but the ice was so slick that SPHP had to exercise caution.

By an ice-coved section of the trail. Photo looks SSE.

After passing a frozen waterfall on the L, the trail leveled out and wasn’t so icy.  Even SPHP was making great time.  Soon Lupe was approaching some of the towering granite formations common throughout the Black Elk Wilderness.

Granite formations along the way. Photo looks S.
Near some of the vertical granite. Photo looks SSE.

After 0.7 mile, Lupe reached the first trail junction.  To the L, Centennial Trail No. 89 headed S.  To the R was a section of trail comprising part of both the Horse Thief Lake and Centennial trails.

At the junction with Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks S.
Intersection signage.
Sunlit spires near the Horse Thief Lake/Centennial trails junction. Photo looks E.

Go R here, Loopster.  We need to head W.

Fine, SPHP, but what’s our destination, anyway?  You haven’t said.

Setting off on the section of trail that’s part of both Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 and Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks SW.

Heh, not likely to reach our destination, Loop.  More than likely we’re on a wild goose chase.  Intend to solve a Black Elk Wilderness mystery today.

Intriguing.  Sort of.  Care to quit beating around the bush and clue me in on what you’re thinking, SPHP?

I thought you were a mind reader, Loopster.

Sometimes I am, SPHP.  You’re being mighty cryptic, though.

Only 5 minutes on the shared section of trail, and Lupe made it to the point where Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 and Centennial Trail No. 89 parted ways again.  No signage here.

Go R again, Looper.  We’re taking Centennial Trail No. 89 from here.

Only a few tracks in the snow went that way, none of them recent, as the Centennial trail immediately climbed toward a big boulder.

On Centennial Trail No. 89, the path less taken. Photo looks NW.

Once past the boulder, Centennial Trail No. 89 wove its way W, climbing along the S side of a fairly shallow valley.  As Lupe got higher, granite spires she’d passed on Horse Thief Lake Trail No. 14 were visible back to the E.  However, since she was now going the opposite direction, for the most part, the Carolina Dog saw only trees.

Gradually climbing through the forest. Photo looks W.
On a beautiful filtered sunlight stretch. Photo looks W.

After roughly 0.33 mile, Lupe reached Pass 5380.  Nothing to be seen here except snow and forest.  Continuing W over the pass, glimpses of a high hill capped by a massive granite formation soon appeared ahead.

Deep in the forest at Pass 5380. Photo looks NW.
The soaring granite-capped hill (Center). Photo looks W.

Awesome, but I hope that’s not where we’re going, SPHP!  We’d never make it to the top.  That’s genuine rock climber territory to be sure, at least from this side.

No, we’re not going there, Loop, but that’s sort of what I expect Peak 6057 will be like from the looks of the topo map.

Really?  Peak 6057 is a fail already then, SPHP.  Why even bother?

Because it was already in the Peakbagger.com database when we started your account in May, 2014, and we’ve never checked it out.  In fact, no one else on Peakbagger has ever reported an ascent of Peak 6057, either.  Zero ascents, zero attempts.

OK!  And what does that tell you, SPHP?  Everyone takes one glance at the topo map, and very sensibly says it ain’t happening!

Yes, and no doubt they’re most likely right, but that’s not 100% certain.  Besides, Peak 6057 has been on your list of places to go, bugging me for nearly 10 years now.  About time we solved the mystery of whether or not we can climb it, Loopster.  Even if its not possible, we’ll still enjoy a great off-trail Black Elk Wilderness adventure!

Doesn’t sound as mysterious as you’re letting on, SPHP.

Be that as it may –  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Continuing W, Centennial Trail No. 89 descended into a valley.  As soon as Lupe crossed the drainage at the valley floor, SPHP called a halt.

OK, this is it.  We leave the trail here, Loop.

Simply fabulous!  In addition to being doomed to failure, we’re in for one heck of a bushwhack, aren’t we, SPHP?

It’s the Black Elk Wilderness, Looper.  Expect no less.

About to leave Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks SE.

Abandoning the trail, SPHP led Lupe SSE through a thicket of tall, thin bushes.  Pushing through them was an annoyingly slow process, even on this level terrain.  Once through the worst of the initial tangle, Lupe took the lead.

Leading the way. Photo looks SSE.

Ah-ha!  Not so bad now, is it, Loopster?  Just keep going up this valley.  Plan is to follow it all the way to its upper S end, turn W climbing up and out, then swing around to the N to approach Peak 6057 from the S.

It was a terrific plan, extremely well thought out as readily confirmed by the topo map, except for one thing.  At the first bend, the valley ahead was choked with deadfall and endless thickets of the tall, thin trees or bushes.  Furthermore, the valley floor was no longer flat.

Hemmed in by a near vertical granite wall on the R, and a steep, forested slope on the L, Lupe was forced to keep leaping over one obstacle after another amid belly deep snow and rough terrain, occasionally crossing a tiny tributary of Pine Creek.

One obstacle after another ahead. Photo looks SSW.

Even though Lupe never complained, it wasn’t long before SPHP devised a new most excellent plan.

Dingo feathers!  Enough of this, Loopster!  Peak 6057 isn’t that far, but it’s going to take us forever and a day to get there this way.  Let’s get up out of these dang bushes down by the stream, then I’ll check the map to see what our options are.

Continuing only far enough to get to where some room opened up below the rock wall on the R, Lupe climbed just high enough into the forest to get above the jungle down by the stream.

How’s this, SPHP?  You can check your map here.

Perfect, Loop.  Give me just a moment.

Waiting for SPHP to check the map. Photo looks NW.

Hmm.  Well, looks like we ought to be able to head W from here, Looper.  Actually a shortcut, if it works.  On the other paw, if the terrain gets too steep, we might still be able to head S paralleling the valley floor, thereby sticking more or less to the original plan.

The American Dingo’s ascent of Peak 6057 began in earnest as Lupe headed W, now climbing steadily.  Early on, she passed a region of big boulders.  A long stretch of uniformly steep open forest came next.  Quite a bit of deadfall strewn about here, but it wasn’t too bad.

After gaining 160 feet of elevation, a huge granite hill hundreds of feet higher appeared ahead.  Approaching a much lower ledge that looked like it might provide initial views, the snow deepened.  Bedrock under the snow was very slippery, but by staying toward the R, Lupe found an easy way up onto this first ledge.

Approaching the ledge. Photo looks WSW.

The sky was clouding up, a bit of a chill in the air, as Lupe reached the top of the ledge.  She could see a long way E, but the most striking view was of several enormous granite formations 0.5 mile SSE.

Up on the ledge. Photo looks SSE.

Wow!  Gorgeous up here, SPHP, but if any of those rugged formations is Peak 6057, your mystery is solved.  It’s a no go.

Splendid, aren’t they, Loop?  Typical Black Elk Wilderness.  And no, none of them are Peak 6057.  They’re all off in the wrong direction.

Can we take a break here, SPHP?  I’m getting hungry.

Kind of snowy.  Let’s get a little higher, Looper.  Maybe we can find a dry spot that isn’t solid rock?

Leaving the ledge, a deep valley to the S forced the Carolina Dog to angle WNW in order to keep climbing.  Lupe sometimes had views of the much higher massive granite formation across the valley, but it wasn’t Peak 6057, either.  SPHP was becoming concerned over whether or not Lupe was going to be able to get across the valley, because she was eventually going to need to, when a snow-free dry spot appeared by a big pillar.

This looks good, Loopster.  Let’s take a break here.

Continuing on in search of Peak 6057 and a place to take a break. Photo looks NNW.
The massive granite summit across the valley. Photo looks SSW.
Loopster by the rest break pillar. Photo looks ENE.

1:58 PM, at the rest break pillar 1/6 mile ENE of Peak 6057

Chocolate coconut bar, Loopster?

Don’t mind if I do, SPHP, but why so generous?  We haven’t even made our attempt on Peak 6057 yet.

Yeah, well, I’ve already been catching glimpses of Peak 6057.  What I’ve seen of the E side looks utterly impossible.

Oh, sorry to hear that, SPHP.  Disappointing, but even you were expecting it to be that way.

That’s the way the Black Elk Wilderness mystery crumbles, Loop.  Haven’t completely given up hope yet.  The highest ground I’m confident we can get to is over on the SW side of Peak 6057.  Distance-wise, we’ll actually be close to the summit.  Elevation-wise, not so much, unless the situation looks a lot different over there.

The chocolate coconut bar had vanished in a flash.  Lupe had a silver bowl full of Taste of the Wild.  SPHP munched the usual apple.  Apple consumed, it was time.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Still climbing, although not as steeply as before, Lupe steadily closed in on Peak 6057.  None of the what could be seen of the E face looked the least bit encouraging – nothing but towering vertical walls.  The Carolina Dog hadn’t reached them yet, when an opening appeared to the WSW.

Think we’re past that valley to the S now!  The terrain doesn’t look bad at all.  Quite a bit of deadfall, but we’ll get through it.  Head that way, Loop.  We can start circling around to the SW side of Peak 6057 from here.

Start of the deadfall-strewn passage around the S side of Peak 6057. Photo looks SW.

The snow was belly deep on Lupe, the deadfall ghastly.  SPHP’s progress was dreadfully slow, but Lupe didn’t complain.  SPHP soon concluded that the fastest way around the S side of Peak 6057 would be to go right up next to its soaring granite walls.

Heading for Peak 6057 (Center). Photo looks WNW.

As expected, the territory next to the granite walls proved to be a maze of deadfall and boulders, but this was the shortest route, likely no worse than circling more widely through the almost equally challenging region farther from the peak.

Near Peak 6057’s granite walls. Photo looks WSW.
The mountain’s SE face. Photo looks NW.

Working along the S side of the mountain eventually revealed the high ground Lupe intended to explore SW of the summit.  Although difficult territory due to all the deadfall, it was actually very scenic, featuring several separate enormous spires.

First view of the SW spires (L & Center). Photo looks W.
Peak 6057’s S face. Photo looks NW.

Scrambling amid all the boulders and deadfall along the S side of the mountain, it had already become clear that Lupe wasn’t going to find any magic route to the top.  Already mentally prepared, it wasn’t such a terrible disappointment.  No regrets.  Seldom seen by Dingo or human, this Black Elk Wilderness scenery was fantastic!

S of Peak 6057. Photo looks W.
Looking ESE.
Close to the spires. Photo looks WNW.

Funny how nature can be such a mess, SPHP, and yet the overall effect is absolutely gorgeous!

True enough, Loopster.  Wish it worked that way at home.  Never does, though.  Quite the opposite!

As Lupe got around to the SW side of Peak 6057, the potential arose to explore a couple of narrow regions between the spires and the main mass of granite.

Next to a narrow opening. Photo looks N.

Want to explore one of these cracks, SPHP?  We’re here now!

Might as well see how high we can get, Loop!

A faint flicker of hope that maybe there really was a way to the top of Peak 6057 stirred as Lupe entered a narrow passage.  That would be so awesome!

A short climb, and Lupe reached a spot that was a dead end for her, but after giving the Carolina Dog a boost, SPHP scrambled up, too.

In the crack. Photo looks SSE.

This is so cool!  It keeps going, SPHP!

It does, but be careful, Loopster, and don’t get too far ahead.  Might easily come to a sheer drop in here.

At the upper end of the crack. Photo looks NW.

Lupe quickly reached the top of the crack.  No sheer drop.  No route to Peak 6057‘s summit, either.  Beyond its high point, the crack widened out, revealing a view of Elkhorn Mountain (6,440 ft.), another giant knob of granite.

Elkhorn Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks WNW.
Elkhorn Mountain (L). Its N shoulder (Center & R). Photo looks WNW.

And that was it.  Standing there at the upper end of the crack, Lupe was done.  The American Dingo couldn’t go any higher.

How far below the summit do you think we are, SPHP?

Hard to say, Loop.  Your GPS track claims we’re at 5,927 feet, which agrees pretty well with the topo map, but neither one’s completely accurate.

130 feet below Peak 6057’s summit then?  Well, we can still get there, SPHP.  All you have to do is rent us a helicopter!

Yeah, guess that should have been the plan all along.  Not happening today, no helicopter rentals around here.  Getting late, anyway.  We better find our way back to Centennial Trail No. 89, Loopster.  No sense in getting ourselves stranded way out here on a January night!

A short scramble down to the SW from the wide end of the crack was an incredible jumble of boulders and deadfall.

Starting the descent after going all the way through the crack. Photo looks S.

Couple more things before we go, Loopster.  Let’s head SW far enough to get a photo of Peak 6057 from that direction since this side was our best shot at finding a way to the top.  From the end of the crack, I also caught a glimpse of Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) way off to the SW.  Maybe we can find a spot with a clearer view of it, too?

Despite all the snow and deadfall, Lupe soon completed both missions.

Peak 6057’s SW face. Photo looks NE.
Another look for all you ambitious rock climbers out there! Photo looks NE.
Black Elk Peak (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks SW.

The Peak 6057 mystery had been solved as far as Lupe was concerned, but her Black Elk Wilderness adventure wasn’t over yet.  Exploring W, then N, through the snowy woods, the return to Centennial Trail No. 89 was a scenic and more challenging endeavor than expected.

Eventually heading NE down a long, surprisingly rugged valley, progress was awfully slow.

Still exploring during the return. Photo looks NW.
Descending into the valley NW of Peak 6057. Photo looks N.
Down in the valley, on the way back to Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks NNE.

Light was fading fast, when Lupe came to an unexpected ancient trail running through the forest.  This clearly wasn’t Centennial Trail No. 89, but greatly helped speed SPHP’s progress.

5:04 PM, dusk at Pine Creek – Suddenly, it was over.  Lupe was standing on Centennial Trail No. 89, a veritable super highway through the Black Elk Wilderness.

Back on Centennial Trail No. 89 in the Pine Creek valley. Photo looks NE.

Hah!  Great job!  We made it, Looper.

We always do, SPHP.

Yeah, in this business everyone bats 1,000, until one day you don’t.

The rest was easy.  Lupe followed Centennial Trail No. 89 back to where she’d left it, then retraced her earlier route back to Horse Thief Lake.

6:09 PM, 37ºF – Emerging at the Horse Thief Lake trailhead, crusty snow crunched beneath SPHP’s boots.  Moonlight streamed over the access road as Lupe trotted back to the RAV4 while the silent stars glittered overhead.  At long last, Peak 6057 was done.

S of Peak 6057, Black Elk Wilderness, Black Hills of South Dakota 1-21-24
Lupe’s GPS track.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                      Prior Black Hills Expedition

Lupe’s Scrollable Peak 6057 GPS Track

Want more Lupe adventures?  Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 322 – Peak 6070 & New Year’s Eve Peak (1-1-24)

10:10 AM, 32ºF, junction of Horse Creek Road & USFS Road No. 243.2B –

A brand new year 2024, and it’s a glorious day, SPHP!

Snow that had fallen just before Christmas sparkled in bright sunshine beneath blue, blue heavens above.  Lupe had been thrilled and anxious to be underway this morning, when SPHP announced that it was time for her annual pilgrimage to New Year’s Eve Peak (6,046 ft.).

Indeed it is, Loopster!  Couldn’t be better!  I’m about ready.  Shall we?

We shall, SPHP!

Then, Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Parked at the start of USFS Road No. 243.2B just off Horse Creek Road. Photo looks W.

Horse Creek Road had been plowed, but was icy as Lupe trotted W to the start of USFS Road No. 257.  After going past the access gate, the Carolina Dog entered a level field where the snow was 4″ to 6″ deep.  Ahead, the hills where the forest had burned years ago were already mostly brown again due to their S exposure.

At the start of USFS Road No. 257. Photo looks NNE.

Oh, I get it!  This looks familiar, SPHP.  We’re taking our alternate route to New Year’s Eve Peak, aren’t we?

That’s right, Loop!  Been wanting to hit Peak 6070 again for years, but the days are so short in December and January, that we don’t make it that far when we’ve gone over Peak 5800 first starting from USFS Road No. 710.

We’ll get to see something a little different then this year, SPHP.

Yup!  In fact, part of today’s route to Peak 6070 will be up a valley we’ve never explored before, Looper.  Should be fun!

Sticking with No. 257 as it crossed the field, Lupe soon reached a short stretch of tall pines.  By the time she emerged from the trees, the road had turned NW, now heading up a wide, gentle valley.  It wasn’t much farther to a junction.

Which way, SPHP?

No. 257 turns N here, which is the most direct route to New Year’s Eve Peak.  That’s the way we’ve gone starting from Horse Creek Road before, Loop.  Today, though, let’s keep going NW on No. 257.1A.

Past the first pines No. 257 went through, heading up the wide valley. Photo looks NW.
No. 257 close to where No. 257.1A split off. Lupe didn’t go this way. Photo looks NNE.

Almost entirely shaded, the snow was deeper on No. 257.1A.  Staying a little N of the road, Lupe preferred continuing up the snowy valley in sunshine.  After more than 0.5 mile, the valley narrowed.  A thick stand of aspens was ahead.

A narrow trail through the aspens led to a clearing where Lupe rejoined No. 257.1A.  The road headed straight for a couple of smaller stands of aspens prior to entering a Ponderosa pine forest.  Upon reaching the pines, No. 257.1A turned N and began to climb.

Heading up the broad valley a bit N of USFS Road No. 257.1A. Photo looks NW.
On the trail through the aspens. Photo looks W.
In the clearing where Lupe rejoined No. 257.1A. Photo looks WNW.
Starting to climb following No. 257.1A. Photo looks NNW.

OK, Loop.  We’ve now reached the part of No. 257.1A we’ve never been on before.  It’s supposed to just keep going up this valley before dead-ending.  By then we ought to be within 0.25 mile of the big power line between Peak 6070 and New Year’s Eve Peak.

Sounds good, SPHP!  Exploring is a blast!

All the snow on No. 257.1A made the trudge higher a little harder than it otherwise would have been, but progress was good.  Lupe sniffed and watched for deers and squirrels, seeing none.  After a fairly long march, deadfall began covering the road.  No. 257.1A faded away.  Glimpses of the power line had already appeared ahead.

Over on the W side of the valley, the American Dingo discovered another old road.  It quickly led to a small clearing where a big pine stood at the upper end.  The ground beneath it was snow-free.

Want to take a short break under that pine tree, Loopster?

Fine with me, SPHP.

Lupe wasn’t hungry yet, turning down Taste of the Wild.  SPHP sat in the sunshine beneath the old tree munching an apple.  The Carolina Dog had gained enough elevation so that Black Elk Peak (7,137 ft.) was in sight.  The day was now warm enough to make sitting there quite pleasant, but as soon as SPHP finished the apple, Lupe wanted to go.

Ready, SPHP?

I guess.  Nice to relax and enjoy the view here, isn’t it?

The views will be better higher up, SPHP.

Loopster, ready to press on. Black Elk Peak (Center), in the distance. Photo looks S.

Beyond the big pine tree, the old road steepened some more.  Glimpses of the power line continued to appear ahead.  Before long, a grassy slope permitted a view of the top of the ridge to the W.

Let’s go up there, SPHP!  Doesn’t look all that much higher.

Lead the way, Miss Ambitious!

The open slope (L) leading to the ridgeline. Photo looks NW.

Abandoning the road, Lupe headed up the grassy slope.  As is often the case in the mountains, the top of the ridge was farther than it looked.  No big deal, though.  Once up there, the American Dingo followed the ridge N.  Climbing among a series of small rock outcroppings, Lupe came to quite a nice viewpoint upon reaching the power line.

Told ya, it would be better up here, SPHP!

Well, of course.  No argument from me, Looper.

At the power line between Peak 6070 & New Year’s Eve Peak. Photo looks NE.
View to the SW.

Peak 6070 was only another 0.5 mile.  Continuing N, then NW, from the power line, Lupe crossed USFS Road No. 244.1B as she made her way to Peak 6070’s S ridge.  An easy traipse along the gently rolling ridge soon got her within striking distance of the summit.  Passing another series of minor rock outcroppings, the American Dingo was there!

Exploring Peak 6070’s S ridge. Photo looks NNW.
Approaching the summit. Photo looks NNW.
Peak 6070’s summit region. Photo looks NNW.
On the highest rocks. Photo looks NNW.
Loopster atop Peak 6070! Photo looks W.

12:42 PM, 46ºF, Peak 6070 – Lupe stood smiling happily in the sunshine atop the highest rocks.

Dear Loopster!  May I be the first to shake your paw, and congratulate you on your magnificent ascent of Peak 6070 on this fine New Year’s Day of 2024?  Well done!

You may be first and last to shake my paw, SPHP, since no one else is here.  This ascent wasn’t that hard, anyway, pure fun!

Nevertheless, it’s an important ascent.  Peak 6070 is the first mountain we’ve climbed in 2024.  Feels like we’re getting off to a good start!

It does, SPHP!  And know what would make it even better?

I do, Looper.  A chocolate coconut bar!  Happen to have one in the pack for this very occasion.

Glad to hear that I’ve finally got you trained, SPHP!

Peak 6070’s summit area was plenty big enough to move around some, but the views were mostly hidden by trees.  Furthermore, there was so much snow around that the only dry places to sit were on exposed rock, which wasn’t that comfortable.  Retreating a little down the S slope, a grassy area provided a few dry spots with a much more open view.

Let’s split a chocolate coconut bar here, Loop!

Bring it on, SPHP!

The next half hour + was spent relaxing right here, admiring the view of Five Points (6,221 ft.) and False North Point (6,130 ft.) roughly 4 miles away, with Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), Sylvan Peak (7,000 ft.) and what was probably Zimmer Ridge (6,600 ft.) on the horizon beyond.

Five Points (L of Center) and False North Point (Center) in the foreground, with Black Elk Peak (L), Sylvan Peak (Center) and Zimmer Ridge (R) beyond. Photo looks S.

The chocolate coconut bar vanished, along with some Taste of the Wild.  SPHP drank an Ensure.  The Carolina Dog preferred snow, but lapped a little water, anyway.  Nothing moved.  Even the air barely stirred.  The peace and silence were amazing.  SPHP had already shed some layers, due to how very comfortably warm it was in the sun.  Time ticked away.

This is the life, SPHP!

Isn’t it, Loop?  I suppose we better think about moving on pretty soon again, though, if we’re still going to visit New Year’s Eve Peak.

Well, we can’t miss that, SPHP!  It’s tradition!

With enough of Lupe’s summit hour left to do a little more exploration of Peak 6070, the American Dingo returned briefly to the snowy summit.

Loop returning to the Peak 6070 summit. Photo looks SSE.
Final moments on top of Peak 6070. Photo looks SSE.

Then it was down Peak 6070’s N ridge for the first time ever, going just a little way to where it was possible to circle around to a SW shoulder of the mountain that had been visible from the break spot.  This shoulder had looked like it might offer a view to the W.  Sure enough, a nice view of Nugget Gulch Peak (6,000 ft.) greeted Lupe, with high ridges of the E edge of the limestone plateau visible on the far horizon.

Nugget Gulch Peak (R of Center) from Peak 6070. Photo looks WNW.

50 minutes after arriving at Peak 6070, shorting her summit hour a bit to save daylight, Lupe was on her way again.  Cutting E across the grassy fields on the mountain’s S slope a little below her break spot, she got to see that beautiful view to the S again, as well as a sweeping view off to the SW of Peak 6043, Peak 6167, and Old Bald Peak (6,130 ft.).

Looking S again from Peak 6070’s upper S slopes.
Peak 6043 (L), Peak 6167 (L of Center), Old Bald Peak (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

Just think, SPHP!  We were over on Old Bald Peak less than 1.5 months ago with new Cousin Dixie!  Bet she would have liked to be here on Peak 6070 with us today, too!

Oh, I’m sure of it, Looper!  Dixie would love this!

Leaving along Peak 6070’s S ridge, Lupe soon caught a glimpse of her next objective, New Year’s Eve Peak, only a little over a mile SE.  Upon reaching USFS Road No. 244.1B again, this time she followed it along the power line to Peak 6070’s SE ridge.  From here, she had an even better view of New Year’s Eve Peak.

New Year’s Eve Peak (L) from Peak 6070’s S ridge. Photo looks SE.
USFS Road No. 244.1B, which Lupe followed to this point. Photo looks SW.
New Year’s Eve Peak (R) from the power line. Photo looks E.

Following Peak 6070’s SE ridge after leaving the power line, there were spots where the ridge was quite narrow and crowned with near vertical rock formations of modest size.  Beyond these obstacles, Lupe turned E to descend a long, forested slope before reaching the ridge’s high point near the SE end.

In the shade of the ridge, the snow was deep on this steep-sided traverse, but soon enough, the saddle leading to New Year’s Eve Peak appeared ahead.  After crossing this saddle, Lupe began her ascent of New Year’s Eve Peak’s steep W slope.

Approaching the saddle leading to New Year’s Eve Peak (Center). Photo looks E.

2:44 PM, 41ºF, New Year’s Eve Peak (6,046 ft.) – The sun was sinking, the day cooling off, when Lupe leapt up onto the summit boulder.  Small pines nearby that had been growing up since the forest was thinned 10 years ago, were getting bigger every year.  SPHP congratulated Lupe on her 11th ascent of New Year’s Eve Peak.  The Carolina Dog smiled.

Back on New Year’s Eve Peak’s summit boulder! Photo looks WSW.
Surrounded by the young pines that will soon hide the views again. Photo looks SE.

It’s good to be back on New Year’s Eve Peak, isn’t it, SPHP?

Always, Loopster!  It’s our place to brood and mourn over the old year, or ring in the new one.  Kind of glad we’re here to ring in the new year this time.  2023 ended too sadly.

We’ll always remember Grandma, SPHP.

I know, Loop.  Not the same as seeing her, though, is it?  Anyway, it’s New Year 2024, so no brooding!  I’ve done enough of that.  Let’s have a seat, and enjoy our traditional view of the snowy hills to the W.

That’s the spirit, SPHP!  We can think about all the grand adventures we’re going to have in 2024 while chomping another chocolate coconut bar!

The classic New Year’s Eve Peak view of the snowy hills. Photo looks W.

As SPHP sat down on a rock, suddenly the day’s long silence was broken by the sound of gunfire, immediately making the Carolina Dog nervous.  Somewhere not too far off to the W, someone had decided to get in some target practice.  Multiple rounds were fired at regular intervals.

After sharing the final chocolate coconut bar of the day, Lupe had more Taste of the Wild before laying down on the rocks next to SPHP.

That can’t be very comfortable, Looper, laying on a cold, hard rock.  Want to get on my lap?

I’m fine, SPHP.  Wish that gunfire, would stop once and for all, though.

Yeah, me too, Loopster.  Kind of hard to contemplate much of anything when someone’s blazing away like that.

SPHP threw a jacket over Lupe.  A few minutes of silence often prevailed before the next burst of gunfire erupted again.  SPHP munched another apple while Lupe gazed out at those familiar snowy hills.

More than half an hour went by before target practice evidently ended.

Glad we came, Loop.  Shall we take a few more pictures before bidding a fond farewell to New Year’s Eve Peak for another year?

Lupe struck a dramatic pose on a rock before returning briefly to the summit boulder.  Then from over on the rocks along the S edge, she had a good look at Boulder Hill (5,331 ft.), Silver Mountain (5,405 ft.), and Calumet Ridge (5,601 ft.) way off to the SE in the general direction of Sheridan Lake.  Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), mightiest of the Black Hills, was almost directly S.

A dramatic New Year’s Eve Peak pose shortly before sunset. Photo looks WSW.
Final moments on the summit boulder. Photo looks SE.
Boulder Hill (L of Center), Silver Peak (Center), and Calumet Ridge (R of Center) above Sheridan Lake on the horizon. Photo looks SE.
Black Elk Peak (beyond Lupe), Five Points (R). Photo looks S.

50 minutes after arriving atop New Year’s Eve Peak, Lupe headed down the S ridge.

So did you get much planning done on what we’re going to do this year, SPHP?

Nothing definitive, Loop, but we have mountains of possibilities.  Actually, the first thing we need to do is at least get your blog caught up at little bit on your 2023 adventures.  I’m like 7 months behind!

Blogging’s fine in winter, SPHP, but the days are already getting longer!

When the days begin to lengthen, the cold begins to strengthen!  That’s what my Grandma used to say, Loopster.

Maybe for another month, SPHP, but spring will come.

The S ridge widened as it curled around to the E.  Lupe followed it all the way to Pistol Point.  It was nearly alpenglow time when the Carolina Dog got there.

At Pistol Point. Photo looks E.

Lupe paused here long enough to take a look at the territory she usually explores on her way to New Year’s Eve Peak.  Peak 5917 was less than 0.5 mile NE.  Peak 5800 was nearly 1.5 miles ESE.

Peak 5917 (L), Peak 5800 (R) from Pistol Point. Photo looks E.

I’d climb all these mountains every year, if the days were longer, SPHP!

They will be in a few months, Loop.  Maybe it would be fun to visit them when the grass is green sometime?

Maybe, SPHP, but I’m used to them this way, with a blanket of snow.

The sun was nearly down when Lupe left Pistol Point.  As the American Dingo lost elevation during a fairly steep descent into the snowy valley to the S, the sun vanished behind the mountains.

Final moments at Pistol Point. Photo looks SW.
About to begin the descent into the valley. Black Elk Peak (R). Photo looks SSE.
A last look at Peak 5800 (L). Photo looks ESE.

This was certainly a beautiful day, SPHP.  We’re off to a great start in 2024!

That we are, Loop.  Looks like for once, we might get a decent sunset, too.

Remember that year when the sunset was so fantastically colorful, SPHP?  Really awesome!

I do, Loop.  Long time ago now.  This will be the first year since then to even come close to that display.

Sunset from the valley S of Pistol Point. Black Elk Peak (L of Center), Five Points (R), False North Point (far R). Photo looks S.

The air turned cold.  The snow turned crunchy.  Still exploring, as dusk deepened, the Carolina Dog eventually encountered USFS Road No. 257 again.  By the time she reached the RAV4, the brightest stars were visible in the rapidly darkening sky.

Lupe was happy!  She’d not only visited Peak 6070 for the first time in years, but kept up her New Year’s Eve Peak tradition.  Who knew what adventures 2024 would hold?  The American Dingo was optimistic!  What a fine day this one had been!  (End 5:22 PM, 30ºF)

Returning from New Year’s Eve Peak, Black Hills of South Dakota 1-1-24
Lupe’s GPS track.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition               Prior Black Hills Expedition

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 310 – Peak 5800 & New Year’s Eve Peak (12-31-22)

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Want more Lupe adventures?  Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Lupe’s 13th Birthday & Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 321 – Crooks Tower (12-14-23)

12-13-23, 2:00 PMC’mon, Loop!  We’ve got to get this party underway.  Hop up onto this chair next to your birthday cake!

Lupe didn’t feel like it.  SPHP had to lift her onto the chair more than once to get her to stay put.  The Carolina Dog looked back questioningly at SPHP.  So soon after this morning’s terrible sadness?  It wasn’t even her real birthday yet!  That wasn’t until tomorrow.  Lupe was still 12.

The Dingo of Honor and her13th birthday cake.

No matter.  Everyone was here!  The champagne was flowing!  This was Lupe’s best attended birthday party ever by far!  People she hadn’t seen in years were here, but not for long.  Erik needed to leave for the airport in just a little while.  With time of the essence, SPHP lit the candles.  The resulting conflagration was more fearsome than ever, making Loopster nervous while the gathered throng sang “Happy Birthday” to her.

Loopster enduring the Trial by Fire! Owen & Emery at R.

Lupe didn’t even have time to make a wish.  The instant Happy Birthday concluded, Owen and Felix blew all the candles out in one mighty joint blast!  Cake and ice cream were served, subject to SPHP’s rule.  No one qualified for cake or ice cream until they appeared in at least one photo with the birthday girl.  Children were granted the opportunity to meet this draconian requirement first.

L to R: Asher, Emery, Lupe, Owen & Felix.

Women were next, followed by the men.  SPHP made certain everyone had to squint into the low December sun.

L to R: Cake & ice cream qualifiers Cassie, Yvonne, Xochitl, Andrea & Mush
L to R: Last, and no doubt least – Lanis, Joe, Steve, David, Erik & Matt

SPHP stayed busy scooping ice cream and serving champagne.  Someone else must have served cake.  Yvonne brought out presents from her and Lanis.  The party was so busy that they, and Lupe, got more or less lost in the shuffle.  The time flew!  Erik needed to go.  A final group photo was in order before he got away!

The whole gang! L to R standing: Steve, Lanis, Erik, Xochitl, Matt, Joe, Andrea, David, Mush. Kneeling and sitting: Yvonne, Felix, Asher, Cassie. Emery & Owen next to Lupe.

Leaving her own 13th birthday party, which was still going strong, Lupe went with SPHP and Erik to the airport.  By the time the American Dingo got back, her party was over.  Uncle Joe, Aunt Andrea, and new Cousin Dixie were still here, but by early tomorrow morning they’d be gone, too.

12-14-23, 8:00 AMBack down to just you and me, Loopster.  By the way, Happy Birthday!  You really are 13 now!  So, what did you think of that birthday party yesterday?  Sort of fast and furious, wasn’t it?  More like a blowout celebration of your last day of being 12.

It was fine, SPHP, except for one thing.  I wish Grandma could have been there.  She’s been at every one of my birthdays until this one.

I know, Loop.  Grandma would have loved to be here for you.  Almost made it, too, but we tried practically ever since we got back from Canada & Alaska and couldn’t save her.  Thought she was going to be fine when we had Thanksgiving dinner together.  She was the best she’d been in weeks, and in good spirits. 

Maybe I shouldn’t have eaten so much of her turkey, SPHP?

And all of mine to boot, Looper!  But no, that wasn’t the problem.  She was glad you enjoyed the turkey, and came to see her.

We won’t be seeing Grandma ever again, SPHP?

No, not in this world, Loop.

It’s hard to have your birthday party right after you bury your Grandma, SPHP!

I know, but you’re a source of joy to all of us, Lupe, and everyone was here.  If we’d had your party today, I would have been your only guest.

Promise me you’ll always be at all of my birthdays, SPHP!  And that you’ll stick with me every other day, too!

Silly Dingo!  You couldn’t get rid of me if you tried!

So now what, SPHP?  It’s my real birthday!  Is anything going to happen, or is the fun already all over and done with?

Well, I haven’t written a new post for your blog in months, and I’m way, way behind on countless other tasks, given all the adverse events we’ve run into this fall.

So you’re just going to work, while I stare out the window all day, SPHP?  Sounds like being 13 is going to get off to a crummy start.

Oh, no!  We’re not going to let that happen!  We’ve got the whole day.  How about a Black Hills expedition?

Now you’re talking, SPHP!  Where to?

It’s been super warm.  No snow at all around here.  Bet we can still get up into the high country.  How about Crooks Tower (7,137 ft.)?

Seems like forever since we’ve been to Crooks Tower, SPHP.  Let’s do it!

12-14-23, 10:17 AM, 38°F, Besant Park Road (USFS Road No. 206) – Well, there was a little snow here, but not an awful lot, an inch or two at best.  Lupe was thrilled to see it, and rolled in the frosty snow as soon as she leapt out of the RAV4 despite a chilly SW breeze.  The sullen gray clouds and cold air created a subdued wintry atmosphere, partially relieved by a large patch of blue to the S.

Parked just off Besant Park Road ready to set out for Crooks Tower. Photo looks SW.

You ready yet, SPHP?  Which way we going?

In a moment, Looper.  Crooks Tower is a few miles SW of here.  Rapid Creek Road (USFS Road No. 231) is just ahead.  We’ll take a L there.

Minutes later, SPHP was ready.  Onward!  Puppy, ho! time.  Reaching the junction with Rapid Creek Road, Lupe followed it SSW through a big field, trotting merrily along.  At the far end of the field, the road began losing elevation at a little faster clip as it curved SW into the forest.

At the intersection. Lupe followed Rapid Creek Road to the far end of the field. Photo looks S.
On Rapid Creek Road as it winds into the forest. Photo looks SW.

The gradual downhill road trek was super easy.  Didn’t take long for Lupe to reach an intersection with USFS Road No. 631.

Hang a R here Loop, and just keep going until we get to No. 631.1C.

At the start of USFS Road No. 631. Photo looks W.

No. 631 led WNW up the upper South Fork of Rapid Creek valley, but there wasn’t any surface water to be seen here.  Regaining lost elevation, Lupe passed both No. 631.1A and No. 631.1B on the R before reaching the spot where No. 631.1C split off about a mile from where she’d left Rapid Creek Road.

Heading up USFS Road No. 631. Photo looks WNW.
Approaching the junction with USFS Road No. 631.1B (R). Photo looks NW.
At the start of No. 631.1C (R). Photo looks NW.

Go R on No. 631.1C, SPHP?

Yup!  This is the start of the big loop we’re going to make, Loopster.  Later on we’ll be coming back to this point from the L.

No. 631.1C was a much more primitive route than Rapid Creek Road had been.  The clouds overhead were starting to break up.  Lupe was often in sunshine.  There seemed to be more potential for excitement here, but other than a soft breeze, the forest was quiet.  Nothing stirred.

Exploring USFS Road No. 631.1C. Photo looks NW.

After roughly 0.33 mile, a long, 20-30 foot high limestone escarpment was visible ahead on the R.  USFS Road No. 631.1C angled toward it, but by the time Lupe got to the escarpment, it and the road had pretty much vanished.  A tiny climb led up to a flat region.

Approaching the limestone escarpment (R). Photo looks NW.
Entering the flat region up on top. Photo looks W.

The roads gone, SPHP.  Now we’re in for some real exploring!

Been a very long time since we’ve been here, Loop, but if I remember right, there’s an old road somewhere nearby that’s not shown on the maps.  Let’s angle W.

Sure enough, Lupe ran into another road almost immediately.  Following it W, SPHP called a halt upon reaching a clearing.

At the edge of the clearing. Photo looks W.

OK, Loop.  I believe there’s a viewpoint we’ve been to at least a couple of times before off to the NW from here.  Nothing too magnificent, but we can head over to it for a look around, if you like, and take a little break.  Not too far away.  What do you think?  Want to do that?

Sure, SPHP!  Might as well, if we’re already close.  Leave the road here?

Yes.  Angle off to the R, Looper.

Heading off in search of the viewpoint. Photo looks NW.

Exploring happily, Lupe sniffed her way through a maze of trees, bushes, and open lanes.  Roughly 600 feet from the road, she came to the edge of a limestone escarpment.  Miles N, the top of Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) was in sight.  On the NW horizon, a forested ridge rose above others nearby.

Is that Cement Ridge (6,674 ft.) in Wyoming, SPHP?

I’ve sometimes thought so, Loop.  You can see that ridge from Crooks Tower, too.  Seems too far away to be Laird Peak (6,906 ft.), and too close to be Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.), but I just don’t know.  I’ve never been able to figure it out.

At the viewpoint 1.33 miles N of Crooks Tower. Mystery Ridge (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks NW.

Well, it didn’t really matter.  For 15 minutes, SPHP sat there enjoying the view while munching an apple.  Meanwhile, Lupe gobbled down some Taste of the Wild.  Checking the Carolina Dog’s GPS track on the iPhone, it said she’d gone 3.3 miles already.

Wandering farther W along the edge of the escarpment, Lupe discovered a stone fire ring.  Piles of gray branches nearby would have provided plenty of fuel for another fire.

By the stone fire ring. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP fished several Lupe treasures out of the fire ring.

Nice spot.  Wish people would pack out what they bring in.

Many do, SPHP!

Many don’t, too.  Well, we better keep going.  Back to the road, Loopster!

Returning to the road, Lupe followed it S.  When it turned W and started losing elevation, she left it to wander through clearings full of tall, brown grass.  Soon a forested ridge was visible ahead.

Back at the unmarked road. Photo looks SSE.
In one of the grassy clearings. Photo looks SE.
Approaching the ridge. Photo looks S.

That’s the N end of Crooks Tower, Loop.  We’re getting close!

The forested ridge was the steepest climb of the entire journey, but other than a fair amount of deadfall scattered across the slope, the ridge really wasn’t that much of an obstacle.  Before long, Lupe was standing below the N face of a 25 foot high rock formation.

Crossing USFS Road No. 189.4F on the way to the ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Steepest part of the ridge. Not bad at all! Photo looks SSW.
Below the 25 foot tall knob of rock. Photo looks SSE.

Is this Crooks Tower, SPHP?  It’s not the way I remember it.

Oh, we’ve been here at least once before, Loop.  Looks like we’re at Crooks Tower’s NNE summit.  The generally accepted true summit is a bit farther.

Scooting around the W side of the big rock formation, the American Dingo found a relatively easy way to scramble up to the top, where a loose pile of rocks apparently served as a cairn.

So this is the NNE summit, SPHP?  Can’t really see anything except trees.

Yes, this is it.  Get up on those rocks, Looper, so I can get a picture.  I sort of remember this cairn, and that we couldn’t see much last time we were here, either.  Might even be worse now that the trees have grown.

On Crooks Tower’s NNE summit. Photo looks NNE.

Five minutes was about as long as Lupe lingered.  Tree-broken glimpses of distant views were all the cramped NNE summit had to offer.  Not even a hint of the true summit, even though it really wasn’t far off at all.

Continuing on, Lupe made her way first S, then SW, through thick forest and deadfall.  Breaking out into the open, she reached the big field SE of the Crooks Tower summit block.  A quick stroll around to the SW, and a short, familiar path led to a 40 foot diameter top covered with scattered big pines, pine needles, and exposed rock.

Part of the field SE of the summit. Photo looks S.
On Crooks Tower. Photo looks S.

12-14-23, 1:18 PM, 41°F, Crooks Tower (7,137 ft.) Clear skies now!  The clouds were gone, but it hadn’t warmed up much at all.  A 10 mph SSW breeze still made it feel rather chilly.  After polishing off most of the rest of her Taste of the Wild, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap.

I do remember this place, SPHP.  We used to come here almost every year.

That’s right, Loop!  Even though the views are limited, Crooks Tower is one of the highest peaks in the Black Hills and long been a favorite.  This is your 11th ascent, and on your 13th birthday, too!  Makes it even more special.

I’m glad to be back, SPHP!  Seems like an awfully long time since the last time we were here.

SPHP smiled.

I looked it up before we came, sweet puppy.  Last time we were here was more than 4 years ago – on my birthday.  And now we’re here on yours.

Although still early afternoon, shadows cast by the sunlight filtering through the pines were already lengthening.  Not even mid-afternoon yet, and it already felt late.  As SPHP sat there stroking Lupe’s soft ears while gazing at the old familiar views, a certain sadness crept in.  Did Lupe feel it, too?  She was mighty quiet.

Dusty, Laddie, and now Grandma, all in less than 15 months.  Our world’s grown colder lately, hasn’t it, Loop?

It’s filling up with ghosts, SPHP.  I wish it weren’t!

Me, too, Looper.  Me, too.

The Crooks Tower region had another summit candidate more than a mile SW, plus a 7130 High Point nearly a mile S of that.  Now that Lupe was here for the first time in over 4 years, though, it seemed better to simply stay put and enjoy it rather than dash off.  The Carolina Dog had already traveled 4.7 miles, and going much farther would mean getting back to the RAV4 well after dark.

In any case, congratulations were in order!  Without getting up, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, praising her for her 13th birthday ascent of Crooks Tower, then split an eagerly received chocolate coconut bar with her.

After that, no one moved.  SPHP wrapped the red rain jacket around Lupe to help hold in some warmth.  Minutes lost in thought ticked away.  Ghosts and days gone by!  Mere memories now, yet still so vivid, and seemingly perfectly real, it felt as if they could return anew even after long absence as easily as Lupe had returned to lay here on SPHP’s lap on Crooks Tower again today.

Gosh, look at the sun!  Can’t sit here too long, Loop!  Your summit hour is getting close to an end.  Let’s get some pictures before it’s time to go.

Upper end of the summit region. Photo looks ESE.
Near the N edge. Photo looks NNE.
Black Elk Peak (Center) from Crooks Tower. Photo looks SE.
A little below the summit. Photo looks NNE.
View to the ESE.
At the summit. Photo looks N.
Looking NNW.
New teenager Lupe on Crooks Tower. Photo looks NNW.
Looking SSW from the summit.

The best views were of Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) far to the SE.  Swinging toward the S, Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) stood out.  The only other real views were N in the general direction of the Mystery Ridge.

Black Elk Peak (L), Green Mountain (R). Photo looks SSE.
Mystery Ridge (L) on the horizon. Photo looks N.

So how was that, SPHP?  Get enough pictures?

Oh, I think so.  Well done, Loopster!

After a more than 4 year absence, an hour on Crooks Tower didn’t seem like nearly enough.  Nevertheless, at 2:18 PM, precisely an hour after she arrived, Lupe headed back down the short path to the SW.

Leaving Crooks Tower. Photo looks SW.

Instead of going back the way she’d come, though, just for fun, it was time to make the big loop SPHP had mentioned earlier.  Less than 0.5 mile WSW on USFS Road No. 189.4A got the American Dingo over to a big intersection with No. 189, the closest really good road to Crooks Tower, and No. 631.2C.

About to set out along USFS Road No. 631.2C. Photo looks SE.

A longer route than Lupe’s ascent, the return was otherwise even easier.  In brilliant sunshine, at first, Loopster enjoyed the long gradual descent along No. 631.2C.

Part of the easy trek along USFS Road No. 631.2C. Photo looks SE.
Loopster enjoying the romp. Photo looks NW.

By the time Lupe got back to No. 631, the sun was behind the mountains.  A bit farther on, Lupe passed the turn she had once taken into Trebor Draw where she’d been injured years ago.  Continuing N beyond this point, another ancient memory stirred in SPHP’s mind.

You know, Loop, I seem to remember a fairly well-formed arch up on one of these hillsides to the L somewhere along this road.  Help me keep an eye out for it, would you?

Sure thing, SPHP!  Arches are rare in the Black Hills.  I’ll let you know if I see one.

It wasn’t until Lupe was well past a junction with USFS Road No. 631.1E that there it was, an arch up on the hillside to the L!  The Carolina Dog went up to it for a closer look.

It’s an arch alright, SPHP! Photo looks NNW.

Well, I’ll be!  The arch really is here, Looper.  My memory of it was so faint that I wasn’t even sure this was the right road.

You were right, SPHP!

Imagine that!  Does happen now and then.

The sun was down, but it was still light out when Lupe reached Rapid Creek Road again.  No traffic at all.  In fact, Lupe hadn’t seen anyone, not even any animals, other than a few small birds, all day long.

On the final stretch near day’s end. Photo looks N.

12-14-23, 4:50 PM, 30ºF – The light was fading fast when Lupe’s 11.4 mile 13th birthday round trip journey to Crooks Tower came to an end.  She’d had a great day up in the high country of the western Black Hills, and as it turned out, more excitement and festivities were still ahead.

During the dark drive home, a herd of nearly 20 giant deers suddenly ran across the road right in front of the RAV4, provoking a hysterical barking attack.  Once home, SPHP suggested another photo session with Lupe’s presents, the two that Lanis and Yvonne had given her yesterday during all the commotion of the big birthday bash, plus one that SPHP had been holding out on.

Loopster with her presents from Yvonne & Lanis.
Biscuit Bistro all-natural gingerbread dog treats. One turned out to be a snowman, the other was Santa.
A big roll of Red Barn grain-free, beef recipe rolled dog food.
Loop with her T-bone steak from SPHP.
1.41 pounds of delicious!

Oh, you did remember, SPHP!  My birthday T-bone steak!  Can I have it now?

Yes, ma’am!  Right after I broil it for you.

Then hop to it, SPHP!  I’m starving after spending all day roaming around up at Crooks Tower.

You’re wish is my command, Teeny-Bopper, Dingo!

Lupe on her 13th birthday at Crooks Tower, Black Hills of South Dakota 12-14-23
With Grandma on Lupe’s 1st birthday. 12-14-11.

Links:

Lupe’s 12th Birthday

Next Black Hills Expedition               Prior Black Hills Expedition

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 315 – Centennial Trail No. 89 – French Creek to Highland Creek (5-20-23)

7:38 AM, 53ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, at the French Creek Horse Camp in Custer State Park –

Great to be out in the Black Hills again, SPHP!

It is!  Good thing you’re enthusiastic, too.  Going to be a long day, Loop.

Terrific!  Are we going to be climbing lots of mountains, SPHP?

Nope.  Probably none at all.  This next section of Centennial Trail No. 89 is 10 miles long.  Round trip we’ll be doing 20.  That ought to be enough of a romp, even for a Carolina Dog!

Trailhead parking at the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SW.

Thirsty, Looper?

Not terribly, SPHP.  We haven’t done anything yet.

Well, let’s have a look at French Creek, anyway, before setting off.

Down at the stream, Lupe did help herself to a small drink.  Even though French Creek is one of the larger streams in the Black Hills, it isn’t all that big.  The lovely stream had decent flow today, though.

French Creek. Photo looks SW.

All set, Loopster?  The trail S starts at the opposite end of the horse camp.

Lupe enjoyed the stroll SW through the horse camp.  People, horses, dogs, and intriguing scents were here.  At the far end, CSP Road No. 4 went over French Creek.  A little farther on, Centennial Trail No. 89 left the road, continuing SW along a much more primitive route.

Covered stalls at the popular French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks W.
French Creek again at the SW end of the horse camp. Photo looks SE.
Setting out for Highland Creek on Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks SW.

Flat at first, the dirt road the trail followed soon began a gradual ascent.  Before long, it curved sharply E, starting to climb much more steeply up a side valley.  Not a cloud in the sky!  SPHP stopped briefly to shed a layer and apply sunscreen.

Going slowly uphill. Photo looks SW.
Starting up the steeper side valley. Photo looks ESE.

This seems familiar, SPHP.  We’ve been here not too long ago, haven’t we?

That’s right, Loop.  We came down this way 14 months ago after climbing Peak 5213 SE of here on Expedition No. 298.  You’ll only remember this first part, though.  It’s been a very long time since we’ve gone all the way to Highland Creek.

Winding SW, the dirt road gained 300 feet of elevation before eventually flattening out beyond the part Lupe remembered.  Splitting off toward the W as a single track here, Centennial Trail No. 89 soon curved NW, topping out near the head of another valley.

Entering the Pass No. 1 region. Photo looks NW.

Reaching the trail’s high point, Lupe paused to look S.  Only May, yet the air was already smoky from forest fires raging more than 1,000 miles away in Alberta!  The smoke was bad enough to mar distant views, but wasn’t terrible.  Despite the haze, Peak 5080 was still visible 2 miles S.  She would be going past it in a little while.

Peak 5080 (R of Center) from Pass No. 1. Photo looks S.

Although we won’t be climbing any mountains today, Looper, we will be going over a series of minor passes.  This is the first, and highest, one.  The Peakbagger app on the iPhone says we’re at 4,970 feet, 1.5 miles from the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead.

Don’t remember this view at all, SPHP.  Must really have been a long time since we were here before.

11 years to the day, Loopster!  You weren’t even 1.5 years old yet.  Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, one of our most memorable ever!  We actually started for Highland Creek from Badger Hole, a 28 mile round trip.  Made it, too, but wound up getting lost after dark on the way back, wandering all night lost somewhere E of Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.).  You cut a paw on something sharp, and I mistook a buffalo for a big rock until we were so close to it, you went nuts.  Instead of running away, the buffalo came after you, while I stumbled around on logs cut into sections for firewood, trying to avoid getting charged.

Oh, I remember that, SPHP!  Good times!  That still has to be our longest Black Hills expedition ever.  You never did figure out where we were until we reached Hwy 16A as the sun came up.

Not exactly true, Looper!  I knew where we were all along, sort of, within a mile or two.  Anyway, all that excitement happened miles N of here.  All I remember about what’s S is a prairie dog town somewhere near the end, a pronghorn antelope, and Highland Creek.  Other than that, just a grassy hill with a big tree on top that I’d always wished we’d climbed.

If you see that hill again, maybe we can climb it today, SPHP?

Hope so, Loop!  Don’t know why, but I always wanted to see what was up there.

Continuing past Pass No. 1, the trail curved S down into the next valley.

At Centennial Trail No. 89’s high point at Pass No. 1. Photo looks WNW.
Heading down the next valley. Photo looks S.

A long, gradual slope led back into another forest.  Before long, Lupe reached a paved road in a bigger valley.  This was the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop.  After crossing the Wildlife Loop, the trail bottomed out in the ditch, then began a slow ascent as it curved W up another small, shallow valley.

Beside the parking area where Centennial Trail No. 89 crosses the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop. Photo looks SW.
Starting up the next valley. Photo looks W.

The trail soon began turning S.  Climbing much more aggressively near the end, Lupe regained 150 feet of elevation before reaching Pass No. 2.  She was now at 4,900 feet, only 0.5 mile from the Wildlife Loop, or 2.5 miles from the French Creek trailhead.

At Pass No. 2. Photo looks SSE.

S of Pass No. 2, the trail lost scarcely any elevation at all.  Instead, it ran SSE through open forest staying nearly flat as it traversed a gentle slope.  After 0.5 mile, the forest gave way to a huge meadow.  A lone bison stood warily watching the Carolina Dog 400 feet away up on a hill to the SW.

A line of considerably higher hills where the forest had burned ran NW/SE beyond a valley to the E.  Peak 5213 was up there!

S of Pass No. 2. Talk about a walk in the park! Photo looks SSE.
Entering the vast meadow. Photo looks SE.
Peak 5213 (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Peak 5080 was also in sight again, now directly ahead.  A much smaller, grassy hill was even closer off to the SSW.  A big Ponderosa pine stood at the top with a collection of smaller ones near it.

That’s the hill I remember, Loop!

The one you always wished we’d climbed, SPHP?

Yes!  I’m sure of it!

We can climb it right now then, SPHP!

Let’s wait until we’re on our way back, Loopster, if it’s not too late.  More important to make sure we get to Highland Creek first.

Peak 5080 (Center), the hill SPHP wanted to climb (far R). Photo looks S.

Heading SE across the giant meadow, Centennial Trail No. 89 began a gradual descent.  Near the next forest, the trail swung SW into it.  This seemed a good spot to take a little break in the shade.  SPHP took a seat on a log, while Lupe sniffed around, or sat nearby.

Taking a short break. Photo looks NE.

Getting warm out, SPHP!  I’m thirsty.  Nary a drop along the trail ever since we left French Creek.

SPHP shared some water with Lupe, then sat munching honey-roasted peanuts.

How far have we gone now, SPHP?

Hmm.  Let me check, Loop.  iPhone says 3.5 miles, so we’re a third of the way to Highland Creek, maybe a bit more.

So far, so good, SPHP!

Yeah, this is pretty easy, Loopster.  Excellent trail, no super steep terrain.  Kind of nice not to have to face an ordeal for once.  All we have to worry about is the distance.  Since it’s so sunny, let me reapply some sunscreen, then we’ll keep going.

From the break spot, the trail began a somewhat steeper descent.  Lupe spotted bright yellow wildflowers on a hillside, and went over to them.

By the yellow wildflowers.

Always remember to take time to sniff the roses, SPHP!

Fairly certain these aren’t roses, Loop, but I agree with the sentiment.

Not roses?  No matter, they’ll do!  Can’t be too picky in life, either, SPHP.

You’re a wise Dingo, sweet puppy!

Continuing down this next valley, Lupe reached the first damp spots along the trail.  Before long she came to a tiny, seasonal creek.  The trail turned NE here, ultimately descending to a broad, grassy valley where the Wildlife Loop was in view again, but no actual wildlife.

Continuing down the valley. Photo looks SE.
Crossing the tiny seasonal creek. Photo looks ESE.
Approaching the Wildlife Loop again. Photo looks ENE.

Upon reaching the broad valley, Centennial Trail No. 89 did not continue across it toward the Wildlife Loop Road.  Instead, it turned SE, hugging the edge of the forest while winding along the base of the hills.  There was some minor, gentle up and down along in here that didn’t amount to much, until the trail veered S up a steeper drainage.

Across the broad valley from the Wildlife Loop Road. Photo looks N.
Going over a gentle rise near the edge of the forest. Photo looks SE.

This drainage was the start of a nearly mile long ascent divided into two parts.  After gaining 100 feet of elevation in the forested ravine, Lupe reached the edge of a gently sloping meadow.  Two barren hills where the forest had burned were now in sight, with Pass No. 3 between them.

Pass No. 3 (L) from the edge of the meadow. Photo looks SW.

Still slowly gaining elevation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned WSW here, and didn’t top out until Lupe reached a stand of pines at the base of the nearest barren hill.  A gradual descent SSE followed, with a couple more barren hills, Peak 4880 and Peak 4840, temporarily directly ahead.

Peak 4880 (Center) and Peak 4840 (R). Photo looks SE.

The gradual descent led to a shorter, steeper one, as the trail curved SW into the upper end of another ravine that drained E.  From the bottom of this ravine, Lupe completed the final leg of the ascent to Pass No. 3.

Approaching Pass No. 3. Photo looks S.

10:26 AM – Although marred by smoke, Pass No. 3 offered first views of new territory ahead.  A small peak of massive granite formations two miles SW stood out as having a more rugged appearance than the other hills Lupe had been traveling through.

At Pass No. 3. Photo looks SSW.

The Peakbagger app says we’re 5.1 miles from the start now, Loopster.  Puts us about halfway to Highland Creek.  Shall we take a break?

Yes, please!  I need another drink, SPHP.  Wearing a fur coat, you know.

After sharing water with the Carolina Dog, SPHP munched away again on honey-roasted peanuts, before applying another dose of sunscreen.

Not a bad view, SPHP!  How high are we here?

4,775 feet, Loop.  Not as high as the first 2 passes.  Overall, we’re slowly going downhill as we head S, a trend that will continue all the way to Highland Creek.

Exploring an arm of the pass that jutted out to the SW, CSP Road No. 7 was in view only 0.33 mile away.

CSP Road No. 7 (Center) from Pass No. 3. Photo looks SE.

Continuing on, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound S down to the road.  Along the way, Lupe caught sight of the first significant wildlife so far today, a couple of pronghorn antelope.  Unfortunately, they ran off before SPHP could get a photo.  Nevertheless, seeing the pronghorns was exciting, and more excitement was just ahead.

Reaching CSP Road No. 7 at the bottom of the hill, Lupe was happy to see Flynn Creek.  The American Dingo ran ahead, anxious to take advantage of this rare opportunity to cool off.

Wading in Flynn Creek next to CSP Road No. 7. Photo looks WNW.

After crossing CSP Road No. 7, Centennial Trail No. 89 began climbing SSW back up into a pine forest a little way before curving E.  Continuing uphill, Pass No. 4 wasn’t much farther, or much higher, along a dirt road that the trail intersected.  The elevation was only 4,590 feet here, nearly 200 feet lower than at Pass No. 3.

Beyond Pass No. 4, the dirt road gradually lost elevation as it wound SE.  Loss was minimal, though, no more than 100 feet, before Lupe reached a stretch of very flat terrain where the trail went due S.

Heading downhill again shortly after leaving Pass No. 4. Photo looks SE.
Another stroll through the park! Photo looks S.
One of the trail markers. Brown wands were the most common markers, although quite a few were broken. Blue markers with arrows were often seen, too.

This flat stretch eventually led to another minor descent SE, after which Centennial Trail No. 89 turned SW, making its last significant elevation gain of roughly 225 feet before reaching Pass No. 5.

Arriving at Pass No. 5. Photo looks SE.

11:42 AM, Pass No. 5

How about another short break, Looper?

If there’s water involved, I’m all for it, SPHP!

Sitting in the shade, the day’s now usual break time routine ensued.  Lupe got a bowl of water.  SPHP munched away on honey-roasted peanuts, and added another layer of sunscreen.

Pretty sure the prairie dog village is down in the next valley we’re seeing ahead, Loop.  If they’re still there, that is.

Sounds exciting, SPHP!  Does that mean we’re getting close to Highland Creek?  Thought you said that the prairie dogs were near the end.

The Peakbagger app says we’re at 4,710 feet here, and that we’ve gone 7.4 miles so far, or about 3/4 of the way to Highland Creek.  So, yeah.  We’ve made a lot of progress.

There was a view to the NW, featuring some considerably higher hills in the distance.  Lupe had a look at it before lying down in the shade.

Looking NW from Pass No. 5.

The trail had followed a rather rocky road up to Pass No. 5.  This same road was grassy as it continued S.  SPHP assumed that was the way to go, once underway again, but a man suddenly appeared from out of a stand of young pines immediately to the E.  He didn’t wave, nod, or say a thing, but turned N, and kept on going down the same road Lupe had come up.

Hmm.  That’s odd!  We’re invisible!  Does the trail go E from here, Loop?

Maybe.  How would I know, SPHP?  You’ve got a map.  What does it say?

The map confirmed that the trail did jog ENE here.  In fact, once Lupe got going again, Pass No. 5’s actual high point was a short distance that way.  Beyond it was another barren hill where the forest had burned, plus the biggest rock formation the American Dingo had come to since leaving French Creek.

Scrambling up onto the rocks, Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was in sight through the smokey haze, now 6 or 7 miles back to the NNW.

Near Pass No. 5’s actual high point. Photo looks NE.
On the rocks. Peak 4830 (L), Mount Coolidge (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

Beyond the rock formation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned S again.  Lupe trotted down an easy slope through an open forest of relatively young pines.  As she emerged from the forest, a pancake flat plain was directly ahead.  A whole lot of chirping began as the Carolina Dog approached.

The prairie dogs were still here!

Approaching the prairie dog town. Photo looks SSE.
One of the town’s wary citizens.

There weren’t as many prairie dogs as the last time Lupe had been here 11 years go, but that might have had something to with the time of day.  At any rate, quite a few of them whistled at her approach.  Centennial Trail No. 89 went straight through the heart of the town.  At the S end, a prairie dog marker was on the ground between two tall wooden posts.

Prairie dog town marker.

Once past the prairie dog town, the trail continued SSE following a dirt road down a long, flat valley.  At the far end, the trail dropped more sharply to a low point.  After bottoming out, a short, easy climb led to Pass No. 6 at the top of a gentle rise.

In the flat valley S of the prairie dog town. Photo looks S.
Heading down to the low point N of Pass No. 6. Photo looks SW.

The terrain was so gently rolling now, that Pass No. 6 wasn’t much of a pass at all, but Lupe stopped here along the edge of a flat, open forest for a short water and shade break, anyway.  SPHP kept up the honey-roasted peanut habit, and had an orange, too.  Lupe was now hungry enough to eagerly devour some Taste of the Wild.

I know we haven’t reached Highland Creek yet, but it can’t be too much farther.  Any any interest in splitting a chocolate coconut bar, Loop?

You can always count on me when it comes to chocolate coconut bars, SPHP!

The end was near!  The prairie dog town had been 7.8 miles from French Creek, and Lupe had already gone 8.9 miles at Pass No. 6.  Another mile ought to about do it.

As it turned out, one more gentle rise to what might be considered Pass No. 7 was ahead.  Beyond it, the road began a gradual descent.  When Lupe saw the top of a grassy ridge ahead, SPHP knew she was getting close to Highland Creek.

Heading for Pass No. 7 (R). Photo looks S.
View to the W from the Pass No. 7 region.
The grassy ridge (Center) beyond Highland Creek. Photo looks SW.

At the very end, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved W as it dropped down to the Highland Creek valley.  200 feet beyond the creek stood a tall fence with a gate in it.  Wind Cave National Park, Service Road No. 5, and the Highland Creek trailhead were all just beyond the fence.

Heading down into the Highland Creek valley. Photo looks SSW.
Highland Creek valley from a limestone outcropping. Photo looks WNW.

Of course, before visiting the trailhead, the Carolina Dog insisted upon a careful examination of Highland Creek itself.  Meanwhile, SPHP made use of the convenient plank bridge.

Wading in Highland Creek. Photo looks SE (downstream).
Near the fancy Centennial Trail No. 89 bridge over Highland Creek. Photo looks NW.
Leaving Custer State Park. Photo looks SSW.
The Highland Creek trailhead just inside Wind Cave National Park. Photo looks SE.

1:17 PM, 72ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89 at the Highland Creek trailhead in Wind Cave National Park

Congratulations, Loop!  We made it!  Only took us 5 hours and 40 minutes.

And how far was it, SPHP?  What does the Peakbagger app say?

9.9 miles total since we left the French Creek trailhead, Loopster.  Let’s see, that means we averaged 1.85 miles per hour.

A blistering pace for you, SPHP, but then it was mighty easy terrain almost the entire way.

Gotta stop and sniff the roses, you know, Looper, or what’s the point?  No one’s here handing out medals for fastest time.

Might have been!  They’d be long gone by the time you arrived, SPHP.

Hmm.  Well, I suppose.  Anyway, how about finding a shady spot to rest a bit before we head N to do it all over again, sweet Dingo of mine?

Right after another session in Highland Creek, SPHP!

Leaving the trailhead, Lupe crossed Park Service Road No. 5, and headed N back through the gate into Custer State Park.  After revisiting Highland Creek, she followed Centennial Trail No. 89 over to the nearest hillside, then went most of the way up it to sit in the shade of a big pine.

Back in Custer State Park. Photo looks NE.
Cool paw Loop enjoying her required return to Highland Creek. Photo looks SE.

Relaxing while enjoying the view of the Highland Creek valley for the last time before heading N, suddenly there was movement.

An enormous group of thirsty natives was proceeding down Centennial Trail No. 89 toward Highland Creek!  However, as soon as they spotted Lupe, the entire group stopped, then ran back up the hill a little way.

Uncertain what to do in the face of this unexpected threat, 80 bison stood pondering their chances of making it to the creek before being torn to shreds by an American Dingo.

A fraction of the thirsty herd.

80 bison to 1 Carolina Dog.  Most of the herd soon decided that their odds of survival were pretty good.  Advancing slowly at first, they then sped on by while Lupe whined and trembled with excitement.

We can take ’em, SPHP!

Yeah, I know, but it’s verboten, Loopster.  Just watch.  Pretty cool, aren’t they?  Not many places you can see this!

The bold buffalo enjoyed their drink from Highland Creek, then went back up the hill to rejoin their still parched friends.  As soon as they all vanished into the woods, Lupe hit the trail again.

Sticking to Centennial Trail No. 89, her return was along the exact same route almost the entire way.  Seemed a little different going the opposite direction, but it was all quite familiar now.  Lupe saw the prairie dogs again, and even spotted 2 pronghorn antelope N of Pass No. 3 that might have been the same ones that she’d seen earlier S of it.  A snake was on the trail in this same area.  Happily, not a rattler.

One of two pronghorns hanging out in the Pass No. 3 vicinity.
The snake. Completely harmless, although Custer State Park does have prairie rattlers.

4:57 PM, on the vast meadow leading back to Pass No. 2

There’s your grassy hill with the big tree, SPHP!  Still want to climb it?

Yes, please!  Let’s do it, Looper.  Still plenty of daylight left.

Leaving Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe roamed ahead while SPHP trudged along behind.

Heading up the grassy hill. Photo looks SW.

A pleasantly cool 10-15 mph NE breeze was blowing up at the top when Lupe arrived.  Hwy No. 87 was in sight down in the next valley to the W.  A series of forested hills and ridges were beyond it, the otherwise lovely scene still marred by smoke.

The big pine tree, which had stood out as somewhat of a loner on this hill 11 years ago, was now surrounded by a small forest.  Really nothing unusual about this place, except that toward the S end Lupe discovered a plaque cemented to a large rock.

What does it say, SPHP?

There’s a short poem by Dan Tyson, and at the end it says “In Memory of the Bentler Family, October 14, 2006.”

Who are the Bentlers, and what happened to them, SPHP?

No idea, Loopster, except that they evidently died, and Dan Tyson knew them.  Maybe they had some connection to this place, the Centennial Trail, or Custer State Park?

Happen to have any more chocolate coconut bars, SPHP?  We could have one in their honor!

Conniving Dingo!  Not sure the Bentlers would feel the least bit honored by us devouring a chocolate coconut bar, but on the other paw, no harm in it, either.  And yes, I still have one.

The last chocolate coconut bar went the way of the Bentlers.  Lupe then polished off the last of the Taste of the Wild, too, and had a big drink of water.  More peanuts for SPHP.

Relaxing by the Bentler family memorial plaque. Photo looks W.

11 years to the day since Loopster had first gone by this hill!  Now the mystery was finally solved as to what was up here, only to be replaced by the new mystery of who were the Bentlers, and what happened to them?

We’ll probably never know, Loop, but I’m glad we came.

6:48 PM, 68ºF – No getting lost and wandering around all night this time around!  The sun was low, but still up, as the Carolina Dog quenched her thirst for the last time today in French Creek.  She’d seen more buffalo on the way back, but overall, it had just been a peaceful evening.

Bison on the Wildlife Loop Road during the return.
Back at French Creek. Photo looks NE.

Fun day, SPHP!  Glad we did this.  Centennial Trail No. 89 is awesome!

Absolutely!  Always a good time, Looper.

So what’s next on the agenda, SPHP?

Nearly June, Loopster!  The grand and glorious Summer of 2023 is almost upon us, and you know what that means.

Dingo Vacations!

That’s right, sweet puppy!  Adventure is calling!  C’mon.  Let’s go home.  We’ve got a lot to do to get ready.

Bentler Family memorial plaque W of Centennial Trail No. 89, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-20-23

“May they stay where the river runs through

The range and the sky buckskin and blue

May they ride to the end

On the wings of the wind

‘Till they’re home and their circle is through”

– Dan Tyson

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition               Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Next Trail Section N:

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 295 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Badger Hole to to French Creek & Beyond to Peak 5120 (2-7-22)

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