Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

Lupe stood out on the flat, cracked mud of a small clearing.  Bright green shoots were poking up around the edges.  Bushes or stunted deep green conifers surrounded most of the area.  The Carolina Dog gazed up at SPHP with a puzzled expression.  A fabulous morning in the Canadian Rockies!  Everything had been going great.  What was the holdup?

Lupe wasn’t the only one puzzled.  The path simply ended here.  No sign of any trail.  SPHP had been certain there would be one.  A year ago, on the way back from Bow Glacier Falls, a hiker had told SPHP there was a side trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.) from this area.  The hiker had said the trail left the Bow Glacier Falls Trail from the forested ridge providing the first close up view of the falls.  A search of that ridge had revealed nothing.  Lupe had gone on, giving up on the idea, but SPHP had vowed she would return some day better prepared.

So here she was!  Back again, a year later.  Supposedly better prepared, but apparently not well enough.  As SPHP studied the topo map with the GPS track on it, a sickening realization sunk in.  Overly confident, SPHP hadn’t printed out enough of the surrounding territory to be able to tell exactly where Lupe was supposed to leave the Bow Glacier Falls trail.  The falls weren’t shown.

Should have paid more attention to the terrain to the W on the way up.  Most of it was out of sight now.  Heh.  It didn’t seem right.  SPHP hated to say it, much less do it.  Probably a complete waste of valuable time, but the possibility needed to be checked out.

Guess we better go back, Looper!  Don’t think we did, but we might have already missed the turn to Mount Jimmy Simpson.  Let’s go back down for a quick reconnaissance.  We can come back up and search around some more, if we don’t see anything promising below the stairs.

Made you wonder.  Was this just the first big fiasco of many more to come?  On August 4th, two days ago, Lupe had finally left home to start this grandest of all her Summer of 2018 Dingo Vacations.  Six solid weeks of epic adventures ahead!  Well, maybe.  The plan was ultimately to take the new all season road to Tuktoyaktuk.  The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was going all the way to the Arctic Ocean!  Yet, even though this Dingo Vacation had launched 4 days late, SPHP hadn’t managed to get Lupe on the road until afternoon.

Even then, SPHP had forgotten something.  Coats!  No joke.  That was the sad state of preparation for this incredible journey.  Loopster had been forced to return home so SPHP could retrieve coats.  Seemed like a detail that shouldn’t have managed to slip by on a long anticipated trip to the Arctic.  Lupe had finally hit the road for good at 2:09 PM (8-4-18, 86°F).

Since then, at least until now, things had gone well.  The G6 had purred W on I-90 through Wyoming.  By sundown on the 4th, Lupe was beyond Billings only a few miles S of Lavina, Montana.  The next morning she’d enjoyed a scenic drive up the Musselshell River valley, revisited King’s Hill (8,008 ft.) in the Little Belt Mountains, and stopped by for a drink out of Issac Walton Spring at Al Buck Memorial Park.

Oh, are you coming with? Glad to hear it! Hope you remembered your coat! We’re going all the way to the Arctic Ocean. Tuktoyaktuk or bust! Lupe at a quick stop along I-90 E of the Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 8-4-18
Sundown from Hwy 3 S of Lavina, Montana 8-4-18
Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) from King’s Hill in the Little Belt Mountains, MT 8-5-18. Photo looks W.
King’s Hill survey benchmark.
Exploring a new off-road route down the W side of King’s Hill. Photo looks SW.
Cooling off in Issac Walton Spring at Al Buck Memorial Park along Hwy 89 N of the Little Belt Mountains, Montana.
Belt Creek across Hwy 89 from Al Buck Memorial Park. Photo looks SSW.

By mid-afternoon on the 5th, Lupe had breezed through customs into Canada.  She made it to Banff in the Canadian Rockies in time for her traditional evening Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue.  And as light faded from the sky, she’d strolled the path along the Bow River clear down to Bow River Falls and back.

Only 1.5 days into our Dingo Vacation, and here we are at Banff in the fabulous Canadian Rockies along the Bow River. That’s Cascade Mountain (9,836) (Center) in the background! Photo looks N.
Banff Avenue! This way to the Pretty Puppy Parade! It’s a tradition, you know. Photo looks N.
At the Louis Trono Gazebo in Banff.
Maybe there’s going to be a Mangy Moose Parade, too?
Bow River Falls near the end of the day in Banff, 8-5-18

This morning had started out well, too.  Up at dawn, Lupe and SPHP had been treated to the super scenic drive W from Banff on Hwy 1, then N along Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 all the way to breakfast at the picnic ground along the E shore of Bow Lake.  Along the N shore, the red roof of Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge had been in view.

Towering beyond both Bow Lake and the lodge was Lupe’s peakbagging goal for the day – Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.).  Oh, yeah!  The views were going to be stupendous from up there!

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from the picnic ground on the E shore of Bow Lake. Photo looks NW.

The trail, or route, or whatever it was to Mount Jimmy Simpson was an off-shoot from the trail to Bow Glacier Glacier Falls, and the trail to Bow Glacier Falls started from the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge.  That much was for absolute certain.  Lupe had been all the way to the falls twice before.  The trek to Bow Glacier Falls is one of the easiest, most scenic half-day hikes in the entire Canadian Rockies.

So as soon as breakfast was over, SPHP had driven over to the trailhead parking lot by the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge.  (8:27 AM, 47°F)  Of course, the first thing to do, even before setting off on the trail, was to check out the view of Bow Lake, Crowfoot Mountain (10,023 ft.), and the Crowfoot Glacier from the N shore.

Along the N shore of Bow Lake. Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) (far L), Crowfoot Glacier (L) and Crowfoot Mountain (R). Photo looks SSE.

Off to the SW, where she would soon be headed, Lupe could see the toe of the Bow Glacier and the upper half of Bow Glacier Falls.

From the shore of Bow Lake close to Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, Lupe already had a distant view of the toe of the Bow Glacier and upper portion of Bow Glacier Falls (L). Photo looks SW.
Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

A few people were out and about, but it was still relatively early.  The views from Bow Lake were wonderful, but this was only the beginning!  An incredible day full of amazing scenery was ahead.  The Bow Glacier Falls trail would be busy before long.  Still a chance to beat the rush, if the Carolina Dog got underway now!

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from the N shore of Bow Lake. The Bow Glacier Falls Trail heads off to the L (W) along the shoreline. Photo looks NW.

From Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, the Bow Glacier Falls trail heads W along the N shore of Bow Lake.  Loopster had been this way before, but it was still astonishing how beautiful Bow Lake was!  Crowfoot Mountain soared dramatically from the opposite shore.  As Lupe got farther along the lake, she could see more of the wilderness peaks to the SW.

Bow Lake was an astonishingly beautiful blue! Crowfoot Mountain on the L. The spire seen far beyond Lupe at Center is St. Nicholas Peak (9,639 ft.). Photo looks SW.
Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) (L), St. Nicholas Peak (L of Center), Polaris Peak (8,694 ft.) (Center R). Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls on the R. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Immediately beyond Bow Lake, the trail went SSW along the edge of a delta built up by the Bow River.  Looking back to the NE, Lupe could see Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.), which she had climbed in July, 2014.

Cirque Peak (Center) from the delta created by the Bow River where it enters Bow Lake. Photo looks NE.

For short stretches, the trail was forced a little up into the forest on the steep slope W of the closest channel of the Bow River, but most of the way Lupe was crossing an exposed floodplain covered with smallish rounded stones.  The river was low this time of year.

At one point, the Bow Glacier Falls Trail left the floodplain to climb over a little bump of a ridge before returning to the low ground.  A higher forested ridge was now ahead past another long stretch of floodplain.  At the far SSW end, a steep set of stairs started up this larger ridge.

The Bow Glacier Falls Trail follows the Bow River upstream. Photo looks SSW.
End of the super easy part! The stairs (Center) leading up the ridge are just ahead. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe started up the stairs.  To the L (SE), the Bow River gushed through a deep, narrow gorge.  When the stairs ended, the trail continued a short, steep climb to the top of the ridge.  Upon reaching the ridgeline, Lupe could see a tributary coming in from the S that joined the Bow River right before it entered the gorge.

Snow-clad Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) was in view at the far end of the scenic canyon that this tributary came from.

This is one of my favorite spots along the Bow Glacier Falls Trail! That snowy peak at the far end of the canyon is Mount Olive. Photo looks S.

From this same point, Bow Glacier Falls was in sight again off to the SW.  It wasn’t that much farther away now.

There’s Bow Glacier Falls (Center) again! We’re getting close! Photo looks SW.

As Lupe knew from experience, the trail went on all the way to the falls.  A most worthwhile trek, but that wasn’t the plan today.  Loop was now on the same forested ridge she had explored a year ago looking for the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson.  Back then, none of the little side trails in the forest had panned out.  Her chance to conduct a more thorough search of this whole region had finally arrived.

Just ahead, the Bow Glacier Falls Trail dipped into a low area next to a rocky ridge.  The trail skirted this ridge to the S before continuing on to the falls.  Before that, though, a side path headed off to the R (NW) into the gap between the forested and rocky ridges.  Of course!  That must be it!  SPHP led Lupe into the opening.  Two minutes later, the path ended.

Ended at a small, flat clearing of cracked mud where green shoots sprouted up.

Down?  That’s crazy!  Why would we go down, SPHP?  We just got here!  Only 2 seconds ago you were convinced the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was right around here, or only a little farther up closer to the falls.  Why don’t we go that way?

We will Loop, but first let’s eliminate the possibility that we’ve already missed the turn.  Might be harder to find this trail to Jimmy Simpson than I thought.  Keep in mind that last year on the way back from the falls to this point, I’d already spoken to the hiker that told us about it.  We looked for the trail to Jimmy Simpson up there, and we didn’t see it, remember?

Yes, but the trail has got to be partway up that mountain to the W, doesn’t it?  Which is higher, not lower!  Let’s just go over to the mountain, and start climbing.  We’ll find the way!  I’ll sniff it out!

Yes, it’s up there somewhere, but that mountainside is a huge, steep area.  Maybe you can run around easily enough on it, but I can’t.  You know how slow I am!  A lot of that territory might be completely impassable to me due to the jungle lower down, and cliffs higher up.  We should at least scout out what looks like the best approach from down here in case we can’t find the trail.

Can’t find it!  We’ll come across it soon enough.  Your magic map shows the route, doesn’t it?  Why aren’t we following it to begin with?  What does it say?  How about we just follow the map instead of wasting time going back to where we’ve already been.

The map says I should have printed out more map.  It shows a GPS track, but I can’t tell exactly where until it’s way, way up there.  So we need to find the trail down here, or at least figure out what looks like the best chance of success before doing anything drastic.

A year to prepare, and you brought half a map?  Oh, silly me!  That’s right!  I’m with someone who doesn’t think to bring a coat to the Arctic.  OK, whatever you say, SPHP.  Seems ridiculous, but if it makes you happy, let’s go back down and see whatever we should have been looking at on the way here.

Shouldn’t take long, Loop.  Promise!

Lupe hadn’t had much of a lead on the morning crowd about to swarm up to Bow Glacier Falls.  While she headed back down the forested ridge to the stairway, groups of hikers were coming up.  SPHP chatted briefly with anyone who seemed inclined to stop for a moment.  Any chance they happened to know where the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was?

It was a total, desperate, long shot, and SPHP knew it.  Probably wasn’t one person in a hundred, maybe a thousand, who had any intention of going up Mount Jimmy Simpson.  Everyone was heading to Bow Glacier Falls, the splendid, easy to reach attraction not that far away.

Naturally, no one had a clue.  Lupe was almost to the bottom of the stairs when one couple that was particularly friendly offered to compare the GPS route on SPHP’s paper map with the topo map on their phone.  The verdict was inconclusive, but it looked like the GPS route left the trail somewhat farther up toward the falls, not down here.

A fool’s errand, but I guess we gotta do this! Still mighty pretty along in here, even if we aren’t getting anywhere. Lupe on her way back down the stairs. Photo looks NNE.

SPHP thanked the helpful couple, and they went on.

No sense going any farther.  What could be seen so far didn’t look right.  Too much dense forest to the W for too far up.  Not much of a chance the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was actually down here.  Who knew for sure, though?  Couldn’t be ruled out entirely, but this didn’t jive with what the hiker had said a year ago, nor what the friendly couple’s phone indicated, nor SPHP’s impression held for many months now based on what could be remembered of the complete map.

Satisfied, SPHP?

Yeah, I think so.

Back up then?

Uh, huh.  Onward, sweet puppy!

When Loop got back to the top of the forested ridge where she could see Bow Glacier Falls again, the friendly couple wasn’t far away.  They were now down in the dip between the ridges chatting with another group of hikers.  They had the trail blocked.  After the conversation broke up, and the other hikers were already underway, Lupe and SPHP went over to talk to the couple again.

They had news!  Guess where that group of 5 hikers that had just left them was heading?  Yes, that’s right – Mount Jimmy Simpson!  A quick, sincere thank you, and Lupe was off!

 After them, SPHP!  Don’t let them get away!

Luck of the Dingo!  That’s what it was!  The 5 hikers stayed on the main trail to Bow Glacier Falls much farther than SPHP expected.  They were halfway to the falls before they left the trail angling WSW up a rock strewn slope toward a big forested ramp.

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from just past the rocky ridge (R). Photo looks NNW.
Hurry, SPHP! We can’t lose them! Off-trail now, the 5 hikers head for a big forested ramp. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP wasn’t fast enough to gain on the hikers.  They reached the base of the ramp and disappeared into the forest.  No choice, but to try to keep after them.

Perfectly obvious now why the Carolina Dog hadn’t seen where the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson left the Bow Glacier Falls Trail a year ago.  No such discernible trail existed.  This was simply an unmarked route up the stony slope.  And it didn’t start from anywhere near that lower forested ridge.

Look how close we are to Bow Glacier Falls! Photo looks SSW.

The Luck of the Dingo held.  When SPHP reached the forest at the base of the ramp, Lupe discovered that the 5 hikers hadn’t gone much farther.  They’d paused for a break in a grassy spot among huge boulders.  SPHP stopped to catch breath close enough to hear them talking.

Bow Glacier Falls from close to the first rest stop at the base of the ramp. Photo looks S.

The hikers were already about rested up.  Within minutes they pressed on heading NNE up the ramp.  SPHP tried to follow, but immediately fell behind.  A scramble up a short rocky slope led to a grassier, wider part of the ramp.  Lupe did find a faint trail along in here.

The grassy part of the ramp was moderately steep, but not too hard.  It wasn’t long, though, before an obvious scar appeared on the really steep slope on the L (W).  That scar was a badly eroded remnant of a trail.  The hikers were still in sight, heading straight up this slope toward a stunted forest at the base of a cliff.

Lupe could have kept up with those hikers so easily!  Ever faithful, she instead hung back with SPHP, who kept having to pause to catch breath, and seemed doomed to lose them.  Even while gasping for air, it was amazing how spectacular the views were already becoming!

Loop about to leave the first big ramp to follow the hikers up to the patch of forest (Center) at the base of the cliffs. Photo looks WNW.
The first big ramp (Lower L) is down by the forest. Vulture Peak (9,701 ft.) (L), Mount Olive (R of Center) and Polaris Peak (R above the falls). Photo looks S.

The hikers disappeared from sight again well before SPHP reached the base of the cliff.  Lupe continued steeply higher, following a bit of a trail N right alongside the cliff wall.  To SPHP’s relief, the hikers had paused a second time.  Lupe and SPHP caught up.  The Carolina Dog’s tour guides left again almost immediately, still heading N along walls of rock.

SPHP took another breather.  Lupe now had a great view of Bow Lake.

Bow Lake with Cirque Peak (Center) beyond it. Photo looks NE.

Then it was off again, chasing after those 5 hikers!  Lupe traversed many narrow ledges.  Every now and then, there were nearly vertical short climbs higher.  Some places there were stunted conifers, other places were out in the dizzying, airy open.  Often there was a visible trail, but not always.  Sometimes the “trail” was braided, offering more than one possible route.

For a while, SPHP did a better job of staying caught up.  Eventually, though, the hikers began to pull away.  More and more often, they were lost from view.  Each time the Carolina Dog rounded a minor corner, she saw them again, but farther and farther away.

The views became ever more impressive.  SPHP often clung to the rock walls next to the narrow ledges.  Finally, two errors were committed – steep climbs that led to dead ends.  Careful retreats consumed precious minutes.  Lupe continued on, but the hikers were gone.

Cirque Peak (L) and Dolomite Peak (9,383 ft.) (the spiky one on the R) beyond Bow Lake. Crowfoot Mountain (R) in the foreground. Photo looks ENE.
Looking back again. Crowfoot Mountain (L), Vulture Peak (Center), Mount Olive (R), Polaris Peak (far R). Photo looks S.
Coming up the narrow ledges. Photo looks SSW.

Happily, before going too much farther, the ledges finally broadened out.  The terrain became far less steep and nerve-wracking.  Lupe ought to be able to get to Mount Jimmy Simpson on her own now!

Oh, happy day! The ledges are widening out and there’s Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) dead ahead! Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP were making much faster progress again.  A question soon arose as to whether or not to climb up onto a considerably higher big ramp to the W.  A little movement caught the eye.  Two of the hikers were in view!  Far away, but on the same ramp Lupe was on.  No need to go higher.

This was easy terrain, almost level.  Lupe was gaining on them now!  Soon all 5 were in sight climbing a slope leading to another wide ramp.

Catching up! The route goes up the slope directly beyond Lupe only far enough to be able to turn R (N) along the top of the closest rock wall on the R. The 5 hikers are mere specks just to the L of the slope beyond Loop. Photo looks NW.

Looper followed them.  As she reached the top of this final ramp, all 5 hikers were once again in view, but still with a big lead.  One by one, they disappeared over a bouldery ridge at the far end of the ramp.

Puppy, ho!  Onward!

Doing great! The 5 hikers are still in sight as specks at the very center of this photo. They’ll soon disappear over the gray ridge. Clearly, the goal now is to get to the upper saddle (Center). Photo looks NW.

Lupe crested the bouldery ridge 7 minutes later.  A down climb amid huge boulders was directly ahead.  At the bottom, a long snowfield led NW most of the way up a giant cirque.  The 5 hikers were just now reaching the snow, about to start up again.

As soon as SPHP managed to get down there, Lupe was in pursuit.

Lupe at the base of the snowfield in the giant cirque. Her tour guides are leading the way higher. Photo looks NW.

The huge cirque became progressively steeper.  Beyond the upper limit of the snowfield, it was worse yet.  Most of the terrain consisted of small to medium-sized scree.  The loose scree was increasingly unstable.  A partially exposed band of bedrock formed the critical juncture.  Get above that upper rim, and the American Dingo would have it made!

This was not a trivial task.  Lupe had almost caught up to the 5 hikers.  Their group consisted of 3 women and 2 men, all young and strong, but even they were having to be careful and take their time.  SPHP favored going almost straight up the middle of the cirque, but Lupe’s guides headed toward the firmer exposed rock formations on the R (N).  Stones came clattering down, but both men and one of the women made it up without too much trouble.

The other 2 women were having a slower time of it.  Lupe and SPHP caught up to them, and even got ahead for a little way.  It was the first real opportunity for interaction, and sort of broke the ice a bit.  After some anxious moments clinging to whatever nub of firm rock presented itself as scree showered down the treacherous slope, everyone made it safely past the dicey part.

The worst was over!  Yet another steep slope led directly to the big upper saddle, but this was nothing compared to what Loopster had just been through.  The unseen summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson was somewhere to the N, still 900 feet higher, but nothing but a long, steady trudge up a barren, obstacle-free slope remained.  Lupe was in a world of rock, sky, and fabulous views of snow-clad peaks, ice fields and glaciers.

Looking back from above the upper rim of the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

It would have been easy to go straight on up to the huge upper saddle, but Lupe’s guides took a more efficient route, bypassing it more directly to the N.  SPHP couldn’t keep up, and fell behind again.  All 5 hikers were pulling away.  Hardly mattered now, anyway.  Lupe was going to make it!

Looking back toward the upper saddle. Lupe never actually went to it, coming up from the L (SE). Photo looks W.
The summit (R) comes into view. Photo looks NNE.
The final stretch. Photo looks N.

Lupe reached the summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.) 10 or 15 minutes after the 5 hikers.  They were all hanging out near the summit cairn, or over by the tremendous view of Bow Lake.  SPHP made certain to praise Looper for making it all the way up this mighty peak, shaking her paw and congratulating her with great enthusiasm.

At the summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson. Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) with snow on the L. Mistaya River valley (R). A smidgen of Peyto Lake is in view. Photo looks NW.

Everyone else seemed pleased by that, and offered the Carolina Dog praise, too.  Introductions were made, and SPHP got to chatting with Lupe’s benefactors.  All 5 were from Calgary.  Apparently they were in the habit of exploring the Canadian Rockies together fairly frequently, although whether they were were all members of some sort of alpine club, or simply good friends, was never clear.

After pleasantries were exchanged, Lupe and SPHP devoted attention to the fabulous views good fortune had made it possible to enjoy.

Cauldron Lake (L), Mistaya Mountain (10,154 ft.) (Center), and the Delta Glacier (R). Photo looks NW.
Peyto Glacier. Photo looks SW.
Peyto Peak (9,744 ft.) (L), Cauldron Lake (Center) and Mistaya Mountain (R). Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe on Mount Jimmy Simpson. Patterson Peak on the L. Photo looks NNW.
Bow Lake from Mount Jimmy Simpson summit. Mount Hector (11,135 ft.) (R) in the distance. Photo looks SE.
Peyto Glacier. Photo looks WSW with help from the telephoto lens.
The closest peaks beyond Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 are Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.) (L) and Dolomite Peak (9,383 ft.) (jagged on the R). Photo looks E.
Mistaya River valley. Photo looks NNW.
Peyto Peak (L), Cauldron Lake (Center), Mistaya Mountain (Center), and the Delta Glacier (R) again. Photo looks WNW.

For a while, Lupe relaxed near the summit cairn.

Taking it easy on Mount Jimmy Simpson. Photo looks ESE.
Mount Hector on the R. Mighty thoughtful of the Canadians to provide such a colorful array of backpacks! Photo looks SE.
Looking back down at the upper saddle. Mount Thompson (10,135 ft.) (Center). The Bow Glacier and lake above Bow Glacier Falls are on the L. Peyto Glacier on the R. Photo looks SW.
Mount Balfour (10,774 ft.) (far L), Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) (L), St. Nicholas Peak (9,639 ft.) (dark prong at Center), Mount Gordon (10,371 ft.) (R). Bow Glacier also on the R. Bow Glacier Falls (Lower L). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Bow Lake from Mount Jimmy Simpson. Photo looks SE.

Lupe got to spend over 40 minutes up on Mount Jimmy Simpson.  She rested up, saw incredible sights, and made 5 new friends.  Before departing, her Canadian benefactors were all quite willing to pose with the American Dingo.

On Mount Jimmy Simpson with (L to R): Cayla, Fletcher, Betty, Sarah & Jon.

It was sad to see them go.  Sad, because her new friends were all leaving her behind.  And sad, because it meant Lupe was going to have to leave the splendor of Mount Jimmy Simpson, too.  SPHP thought it best to try to stay close to the Canadians during the tricky route along the narrow ledges.

Lupe’s new friends start back down toward the upper saddle. Photo looks SW.
The Canadians approach the upper lip of the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

SPHP is even slower going down steep stuff than going up.  So the return trip was similar to Lupe’s ascent.  SPHP always trying not to fall too far behind.  Lupe caught up to the Canadians once as they were deciding which way to descend into the giant cirque, and again when they took a short break on the wide ramps.

Heading down the wide ramps below the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

After that, though, the Canadians were simply faster.  They came into view now and then, but always farther ahead than before.  They took a lower descent path this time avoiding some of the more treacherous, narrowest ledges.  SPHP wound up too low, stuck thrashing around in the forest for a little way.

From the top of the morning’s first steep ascent where the scar of a trail was, Lupe saw the Canadians for the last time.  They were already down on the first big ramp, still moving fast.

The way back was well known from here.  Lupe and SPHP slowed down.  May as well enjoy this beautiful evening in the Canadian Rockies.  Lupe’s Calgary guides were gone.  The crowds who had come to see Bow Glacier Falls were long gone, too.  Solitude, splendid scenery on an enormous scale, and an easy trek back to Bow Lake to look forward to.

Nearing Bow Glacier Falls on the way down the first ramp. Photo looks SSW.
Out on the rocky slope looking back up at Mount Jimmy Simpson and the first big ramp. Photo looks N.
Approaching the forested ridge on the way back to the stairs and Bow Lake. Cirque Peak (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

What a glorious day Mount Jimmy Simpson had been!  By all rights, it should have been a complete flop.  Not likely Lupe and SPHP would ever have found the way up Mount Jimmy Simpson, if those 5 Canadians from Calgary hadn’t come along right when they did.

Luck of the Dingo!  If it kept holding like it did today, the next 6 weeks were going to be fantastic!

Cayla, Fletcher, Betty, Sarah, Jon & Lupe on Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 8-6-18

Links:

Next Adventure

Bow Lake & the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-25-13)

Cirque Peak, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-14)

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (8-2-17)

Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

August, yet Banff was quiet and cool.  Low clouds hid the mountains.  Only a few people were wandering about this early in the normally bustling tourist town.  Summer had vanished.  It felt a little like fall with winter on the way.  Lupe & SPHP left Banff heading W on Trans-Canada Hwy 1.  (5:44 AM, 52°F)

Not until Lupe was well N of Lake Louise on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 did the clouds begin to dissipate.  The sky was clear by the time she reached the picnic ground at Bow Lake.

Lupe by a small stream that flows into Bow Lake near the picnic ground along the E shore. Photo looks WNW.

After 2 days spent almost entirely on the road, Lupe needed to get out of the G6 and do something active for a while.  The Canadian Rockies are a perfect place for that!  One of the most beautiful short day hikes was right here at Bow Lake.  With the sun out now, the morning would warm up fast.  It was still early enough for Lupe to beat the hordes of tourists certain to appear before too long.

SPHP drove over to the N side of Bow Lake, parking the G6 at Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge (7:16 AM).  The big gravel parking lot at the trailhead for Bow Glacier Falls was practically empty, but would be overflowing soon enough on a day like this.  Before hitting the trail, Lupe went down to the N shore of Bow Lake.  Wisps of fog lingered over the smooth, still waters.  Lupe could see Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) and part of the Crowfoot Glacier across the lake.

Before hitting the trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Lupe went down to the N shore of Bow Lake near Num-Ti-Jah Lodge. She could see Bow Peak (L) and part of the Crowfoot Glacier (R) beyond the far shore. Photo looks SE.

Bow Glacier Falls, Lupe’s ultimate destination, was already in view to the SW.  From a distance like this, Lupe could even see part of the Bow Glacier, an arm of the massive Wapta Icefield, above the falls.

From the shore of Bow Lake near the Num-Ti-Jah lodge, Lupe could already see Bow Glacier Falls (Center, in shadow) and Bow Glacier above it. Photo looks SW.
Bow Glacier & Bow Glacier Falls with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

On her way to the trail, Lupe passed by Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah lodge with its distinctive red roof.

Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is located along the N shore of beautiful Bow Lake, just off Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.
Loop near Num-Ti-Jah lodge with its distinctive red roof.

The first part of the trek to Bow Glacier Falls went W right along the N shore of Bow Lake.  The easy, level trail gradually turned SW.  The views were stunning from the very start.

The Bow Glacier Falls trail started out from Num-Ti-Jah lodge with this gorgeous view of Crowfoot Mountain (10,023 ft.) (R) across Bow Lake. Part of the Crowfoot Glacier is visible on the L. Photo looks SSE.
Lupe sets out on the Bow Glacier Falls trail. The easy hike to spectacular Bow Glacier Falls (R) is one of the most popular short day hikes in the Canadian Rockies.
Looking SE across Bow Lake. Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) (Center) and Crowfoot Mountain (R) are in view.
The sharp peak a bit L of Center is Saint Nicholas Peak (9,639 ft.). Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) is on the far L. Photo looks SW.
Wildflowers, Bow Lake, Saint Nicholas Peak & Mount Olive from the Bow Glacier Falls trail. Photo looks SW.
Loop a little farther along the trail with Bow Lake & Crowfoot Mountain in the background. Photo looks SSE.
Getting close to the W end of Bow Lake. Photo looks SSW.

By the time Lupe reached the W end of Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls had sunk out of sight behind a forested ridge.  The trail now went SSW following a swift glacier-fed stream.  The stream was braided where it flowed into Bow Lake.

Looking back toward Bow Lake from the braided stream. Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.) (L) looms high in the distance. Lupe had climbed Cirque Peak back on 7-27-14. Cirque Peak had been a great adventure, too, with an awesome view of Bow Lake and the Wapta Icefield above Bow Glacier Falls! Photo looks NE.

Following the stream was super easy.  The trail stayed close to the W bank, but never crossed the river.  In some places cairns marked the way, but they weren’t needed, since it was always obvious where the trail was headed.  Other than one short stretch where the stream forced the trail into the forest, the terrain was level the entire way to a set of stairs at the base of a forested ridge.

Lupe heads up the valley. The trail followed the W side of the gorgeous stream, never crossing it or venturing far from it. Photo looks SSW.
Looking downstream back toward Bow Lake, a slice of which is now barely visible. Photo looks NNE.
Another look downstream from only slightly farther on. Lupe had gotten an early enough start so she had the whole Bow Glacier Falls trail all to herself. She saw no one else at all the whole way to the falls. Photo looks NNE.
Looking upstream now. The trail eventually climbs over the low forested ridge ahead. In fact, it can be seen starting up the ridge a little L of Center. Photo looks SSW.
Loop getting close to the steps (Center) at the base of the forested ridge where the Bow Glacier Falls trail starts up over it. The stream flows down through a narrow gorge just to the L of the stairs. Photo looks SSW.
Lupe visits the downstream end of the narrow gorge the stream flows through on the way to Bow Lake. Photo looks SW.

The only steep section of the whole Bow Glacier Falls trail began with the stairs at the base of the forested ridge.  During this climb, which didn’t take Looper long, the stream was only occasionally in sight.  It could always be heard, though, rushing in a roaring torrent through a deep, narrow chasm nearby.

Once up on the forested ridge, Lupe had a panoramic view of what lay ahead from a bare spot along the edge of the far side.  Below her, two pale blue glacial streams joined forces to form the larger stream that disappeared immediately into the chasm.  One of these smaller streams flowed down from snowfields hidden in an intriguing, mysterious valley to the S.  The other stream came from Bow Glacier Falls, which was now in sight again at the far end of a large rocky amphitheater to the SW.

At the end of the climb up the forested ridge, Lupe reached this barren high spot with a view of what lay ahead. Two streams could be seen coming together just before plunging down into the narrow chasm. The stream at Center flows down from snowfields in the mysterious valley to the S. The other stream (R) comes from Bow Glacier Falls. Photo looks S.
From the barren spot on the forested ridge, Bow Glacier Falls was in view again at the far end of a rocky amphitheater. Photo looks SW.
Bow Glacier Falls from the bare spot on the forested ridge with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
Another look from the same spot.
Looking from the bare spot on the forested ridge into the intriguing valley to the S with lots of help from the telephoto lens. A trail could be seen going up this valley, but SPHP didn’t see how Lupe could get over to it. Mount Olive is on the R. Photo looks S.

Continuing on, Lupe lost a little elevation as the trail descended the other side of the forested ridge into the lower end of the amphitheater below Bow Glacier Falls.  Once in the amphitheater, it was a simple matter to follow the trail up toward the base of the falls.

The Bow Glacial Falls trail became braided and ultimately disintegrated before actually reaching the falls, but the waterfall was always in sight directly ahead.  The rest of the way, Loop sniffed and explored her way among rocks and two inch deep streams that trickled everywhere.

Beyond the forested ridge, the Bow Glacier Falls trail winds its way up toward the base of the falls. Photo looks SW.
Looper on her way through the rocky amphitheater to the base of the falls. Even though the trail eventually disintegrated, Bow Glacier Falls was always in sight all the rest of the way. Photo looks SW.
Getting close!
This was Lupe’s 2nd visit to Bow Glacier Falls. She had also come here on her 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies.
Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 8-2-17

An hour and twenty minutes after leaving Num-Ti-Jah lodge at Bow Lake, Lupe arrived at the base of the falls.  Not a soul was around.  Due to her early morning start, Looper hadn’t seen anyone else on the whole trail.  The coveted solitude wasn’t likely to last long.  The Bow Glacier Falls trail is so accessible, easy, and scenic from start to finish that it is one of the most popular short day hikes in the Canadian Rockies.

Due to her early morning start, Lupe arrived in time to enjoy Bow Glacier Falls all by herself. She hadn’t seen a soul on the whole trail, and no one had beat her here. Photo looks SW.

Of course, the first thing to do was to climb up next to the falls about as high as seemed reasonably safe.

Lupe next to Bow Glacier Falls. The roar of the rushing waters was tremendous!
An American Dingo poses dramatically at the base of Bow Glacier Falls.
Another look including the top of the falls.
Zoomed in on Looper.

Bow Glacier Falls was spectacular, but the views back down the valley were amazing, too!

The views back down the valley from Bow Glacier Falls were amazing! Observation Peak (L) and Cirque Peak (Center) are in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP scrambled around a bit more to get a little higher.  The terrain wasn’t that difficult, but some of the rocks were very slick with water trickling down over them.  Loopster did manage to get somewhat higher than before.  The difference in elevation was enough so the Carolina Dog could now see the W end of Bow Lake.

By scrambling around a bit, Lupe managed to get a little higher than before. She could have gone even farther, but SPHP decided this was good enough. Most of the rocks higher up were wet and slippery.
Lupe as far up as she went at Bow Glacier Falls. She climbed up here a couple of times during her nearly hour long visit. From this high up, she could see the N end of Bow Lake down the valley.
Climbing a little higher had brought the N end of Bow Lake (Center) into view. Observation Peak (L) and Cirque Peak (R) are seen in the distance. Photo looks NE.
Lupe stands on a ledge next to a precariously constructed cairn. Lupe and SPHP took a 30 minute break on this ledge.

Lupe climbed about as far up as the Carolina Dog could reasonably go.  Most of rocks above her were wet and slippery.  SPHP decided she had gone far enough.  Bow Glacier Falls flows down from an unseen upper lake located below Bow Glacier.  It would have been great fun to get up above the falls to see the upper lake and the glacier, but a solid line of cliffs ruled out any possibility of doing that.

Amid the grandeur of the Canadian Rockies, Lupe and SPHP took a 30 minute break on the dry parts of a rock ledge.  The day had warmed up nicely.  Lupe didn’t have a care in the world.  SPHP filled 3 water bottles with water from the Bow Glacier which had tumbled over the falls.  Lupe munched Taste of the Wild, and enjoyed being petted.

The glorious solitude lasted longer than SPHP expected it would, but inevitably people were seen coming up the trail.  The time had arrived to think about moving on.

Lupe perched for a final time back at the high point of her journey to Bow Glacier Falls.
All told, Lupe and SPHP enjoyed an incredible 50 minutes of solitude at Bow Glacier Falls.

After 50 minutes of glorious solitude at Bow Glacier Falls, Lupe and SPHP started down.  Lupe paused along the edge of the falls once or twice for photos, then it was time to hit the trail.  People were getting close.

Loop begins her descent.
Final moments at gorgeous Bow Glacier Falls.

A hiker in one of the first groups Lupe passed on her way down told SPHP that a side trail existed that went all the way up Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.). The side trail left the main trail down at the forested ridge, and wasn’t hard to find. That sounded great!  SPHP was interested immediately.  Lupe should do that today, right now!

Loop on the way through the rocky amphitheater heading back down to the forested ridge. Observation Peak (10,413 ft.) (L) and Cirque Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
Mount Jimmy Simpson from near the forested ridge. A hiker had told SPHP that a side trail to the top of Mount Jimmy Simpson left the Bow Glacier Falls trail at the forested ridge, and that it would be easy to find. Lupe and SPHP spent half an hour looking for it, but managed not to find it. All the side trails seemed to dead end in the forest.

Searching for the trail up Mount Jimmy Simpson, Lupe and SPHP tried several side trails on or near the forested ridge.  None went far.  They all quickly faded away in dense forest on steep slopes.  Hmm.  The hiker had said the correct side trail was easy to find.  Easy perhaps, if one knew exactly where to look.

By now, throngs of hikers were heading up to Bow Glacier Falls.  SPHP asked some of them if they knew anything about a trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson?  No one, not even experienced professional guides leading large groups, had a clue.  Few had even heard of Mount Jimmy Simpson.  Disappointed, SPHP gave up on the idea.

Lupe remained cheerful, however.  The trek to Bow Glacier Falls had been perfect!  The scenery was stunning the entire way, and she’d had a lot of fun sniffing around and getting some exercise.  Now on on the way back, she was getting to see and do it all over again.

Loopster back at the bare spot on the forested ridge where she had a great view of the mysterious valley to the S. The lighting was better now than earlier in the day, but she still couldn’t see what was hidden around that tantalizing corner at the far end of the valley. Photo looks S.
Getting close to the stairs leading to the lower valley. Photo looks NNE.
Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.) (Center) on the way back to Bow Lake. Photo looks NE.

Before noon, Lupe was back at Num-Ti-Jah lodge.  Even with almost an hour spent relaxing near the falls, and the failed search for the side trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson, the whole trek to Bow Glacier Falls and back had taken only a little over 4 hours.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls had been a grand time.  The American Dingo had enjoyed a wonderful needed break from the G6, and seen a favorite part of the glorious Canadian Rockies again.  She was now ready to continue the long journey N on the way to her next adventure.

Looking back at Bow Glacier Falls, now far in the distance, from Bow Lake shortly before reaching Num-Ti-Jah lodge and the G6 again.

Related Links:

Bow Lake & the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-25-13)

Cirque Peak, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-14)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Peyto Lake & Bow Summit, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-1-13)

5:30 AM.  Daylight already.  Lupe was wide awake.  Soon SPHP was, too.  It was August 1, 2013, Day 23 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths & Canada.  This was to be Lupe’s last full day in Canada.  Yesterday she had already started heading S from the Mount Robson area to begin the trip back home.  Before leaving Canada, Lupe and SPHP still had a few places to go and things to see.  It was good to be up early!

Shortly after 6:00 AM, SPHP was parking the G6 at the Peyto Lake parking lot near Bow Pass on the Icefields Parkway Highway No. 93.  Although the Peyto Lake observation deck at the end of a short paved path is a very popular tourist destination, no one else was around this early in the day.  The G6 was the only vehicle in the parking lot.  It wouldn’t stay that way for very long.  Lupe and SPHP took the short path to see Peyto Lake.

Peyto Lake in Banff National Park from the observation deck at Bow Pass.
Peyto Lake in Banff National Park from the observation deck at Bow Pass.  Mountains along the Mistaya River valley stretch out as far as the eye can see.  Peyto Lake is named after Ebenezer “Wild Bill” Peyto, a legendary early hunter, trapper, prospector, guide & outfitter in the Canadian Rockies.  Photo looks NW.

There used to be a lookout tower at Bow Summit.  After admiring the view of Peyto Lake and the Mistaya River valley from the observation deck, Lupe and SPHP went in search of the old fire lookout service road.  SPHP had brought along the following note summarizing instructions on how to get to Bow Summit from research done online:

“From the Peyto Lake overlook, take the right hand of two paved trails leading uphill.  After 100 meters, there will be a 3 way junction at an interpretive sign.  Continue on the middle branch angling uphill to the left of the sign (this is part of the upper nature trail).  In a few minutes, the paved nature trail will continue on to the right, but continue straight on the old fire lookout service road.”

Soon Lupe was trotting happily on up the road to the old fire lookout.  It was a gorgeous morning with views to match.  After gaining 760 feet of elevation, Lupe and SPHP reached the end of the road at Bow Summit.  There were wonderful views to the N back toward the Mistaya River valley and Waterfowl Lakes.  The best views to the S toward Bow Lake and beyond were a little farther on.

Looking SE from Bow Summit toward Bow Lake.
Looking SE from Bow Summit toward Bow Lake.  From L to R:  Mount Andromache (9,829 ft.), Mount Hector (11,135 ft.), Bow Peak (9,318 ft.), and Crowfoot Mountain (10,023 ft.).

L to R: Mount Hector, Bow Peak, Crowfoot Mountain as seen from Bow Summit.

Mountains along the Mistaya River valley, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada from Bow Summit.
Mountains along the Mistaya River valley, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada from Bow Summit.
Looking NNW from Bow Summit at mountains along the Mistaya River valley.
Looking NNW from Bow Summit at mountains along the Mistaya River valley.

The views at Bow Summit were wonderful, amazing and incredible.  It was hard not to feel sad that Lupe had to leave Canada.  The views weren’t the only thing that were amazing and incredible, though.  Amazing and incredible swarms of not-so-wonderful mosquitoes started plaguing Lupe and SPHP within just a minute or two of arriving at Bow Summit.

Although Lupe doesn’t like strong winds, a good stiff breeze would have been welcome.  As it was, Lupe and SPHP tired very quickly of serving as local blood banks.  The mosquitoes had been only a minor annoyance while moving on the way up, but they were intolerable staying put in any one place.  Definitely time to be moving on.  Two hours after leaving the G6, Lupe and SPHP were back at the now bustling Peyto Lake parking lot.

After Bow Summit, Lupe went on one more outing in the Canadian Rockies.  Near the high point on Hwy 93 heading W toward Kootenay National Park in British Columbia, there was a trailhead for Boom Lake.  The trail was only 5.1 km to Boom Lake, which was perfect for the limited time Lupe had to spend.

At the trailhead parking lot, Lupe met a skinny 7 month old black lab puppy named Geeko.  Lupe and Geeko played with each other in the parking lot, and each time they met along the trail.

SPHP met a Canadian biologist from Winnipeg along the way.  When SPHP learned the biologist had hiked more than 2,000 km of trails in the Canadian Rockies, SPHP asked for recommendations on day hikes.  The biologist recommended a trail quite near by, which goes to the Stanley Glacier.  Lupe didn’t have time to check it out this trip, but SPHP hopes some day she will.

By the time Lupe and SPHP reached Boom Lake, it was raining and foggy.  It looked like a beautiful spot, but Lupe would have to return under better conditions to explore further and get some photos worthy of the area.  Lupe had fun, but she was a rather soggy doggie by the time she completed the trek back to the G6.

Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a wonderful drive through scenic Kootenay National Park, but made no more stops until reaching Radium Hot Springs.  Lupe had to wait in the G6 at Radium Hot Springs, while SPHP went in to get cleaned up and bask in the warm mineral waters.

After so many days exploring the Canadian Rockies, Lupe was fine with spending a little time chillin' in the G6 while it rained outside and SPHP went to the Radium Hot Springs.
After so many days exploring the Canadian Rockies, Lupe was fine with spending a little time chillin’ in the G6 while it rained outside and SPHP went to the Radium Hot Springs.

SPHP returned from the Radium Hot Springs clean and refreshed.  Cleanliness always boosts SPHP’s spirits, especially while traveling.  It was time to get serious about making some progress getting home!  Lupe was in for a good time – after all, the cows and horses in Montana alone were going to provide at least 500 miles of frenzied Dingo barking pleasure!

Links:

Peyto Lake & Lupe’s Search for the Peyto Glacier (7-26-13)

Bow Lake & The Trail to Bow Glacier Falls (7-25-13)

Book Review: Ain’t it Hell, Bill Peyto’s Mountain Journal

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

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Bow Lake & the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-25-13)

Bow Lake is located on the W side of the spectacular Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 in Banff National Park roughly 22 miles N of the junction with Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1.  Bow Lake is clearly visible from the Icefields Parkway which goes right past the E shore.  The trail to Bow Glacier Falls starts at the red-roofed Num-Ti-Jah lodge on the N shore of the lake.  There is parking, but no sign or official trailhead that Lupe and SPHP have noticed.  Just look for the trail heading W along the N shore.  It’s easy to find.

Lupe visited Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park on the morning of July 25, 2013, the 16th Day of her 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths & Canadian Rockies.  After seeing the falls, Lupe and SPHP returned to Banff National Park and headed N on the Icefields Parkway, Hwy 93.  There was still time for an afternoon trek.  On this hot summer day, SPHP had a good one in mind that doesn’t involve too much elevation gain – the trail from Bow Lake to Bow Glacier Falls.

Looking SE across Bow Lake. The Crowfoot Glacier is visible just right of center.
Looking SE across Bow Lake. The Crowfoot Glacier is visible just right of center.

SPHP parked the G6 near Num-Ti-Jah lodge located near the N shore of Bow Lake.  The lodge is within sight of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  It’s red roof is easy to spot coming up the Icefields Parkway from the S.  The first thing Lupe did was trot on down to the lake to check out the small beach near the lodge.

The Nim-Ti-Jah lodge located near the N shore of Bow Lake. The trail to Bow Glacier Falls starts from the lodge.
The Num-Ti-Jah lodge located near the N shore of Bow Lake. The trail to Bow Glacier Falls starts from the lodge.
Lupe on the beach at Bow Lake near the Nim-Ti-Jah lodge. There were actually quite a few people around at the beach on this hot summer day. SPHP suspects it is best to be part Canadian if you want to go in the water. The water comes from that glacier in the distance!
Lupe on the pebbly beach at Bow Lake near the Nim-Ti-Jah lodge. There were actually quite a few people around at the beach on this hot summer day. SPHP suspects it is best to be part Canadian if you want to go in the water. The water comes right from that glacier in the distance!  Bow Glacier Falls, where Lupe was headed, is seen just below the left side of the glacier.

Lupe cooled off a bit wading around in the cold water.  She had a big drink out of Bow Lake.  There were more people than SPHP expected to see at the beach, but it wasn’t a big crowd.  A few hardy souls were even in the water, mostly children who tend not to notice hypothermia much.  Lupe and SPHP set off on the trail to Bow Glacier Falls sometime between 2:00 and 3:00 PM.  The trail starts off heading W along the N shore of Bow Lake.

Looking S across Bow Lake at Crowfoot Mountain from the Bow Glacier Falls trail.
Looking S across Bow Lake at Crowfoot Mountain (10,023 ft.) from the Bow Glacier Falls trail.
Looking back to the E along Bow Glacier Falls trail along the N shore of Bow Lake.
Looking back to the E along Bow Glacier Falls trail on the N shore of Bow Lake.
Bow Lake in Banff National Park. Bow Glacier Falls is visible below the Bow Glacier, which is part of the Wapta Icefield.
Bow Lake in Banff National Park. Bow Glacier Falls is visible below the Bow Glacier, which is part of the Wapta Icefield.

There were quite a few people on the trail to the falls.  There were a couple of big scary dogs, too.  Lupe got by them when the big dogs decided to go for a swim in the lake.  The trail gradually curves toward the S as it proceeds along Bow Lake.  By the time it leaves the lake behind, the trail is heading SW.  There the trail enters a still nearly level area of gravel deposited by the Bow River.  The trail heads for a narrow gap at the S end of a small ridge ahead.  A steep set of stairs climbs up the small ridge on the N side of the gap.

Beyond the lake now, Bow Glacier Falls trail heads for the gap at the S end of the small ridge ahead. Bow Glacier Falls is visible above the small ridge.
Beyond the lake now, Bow Glacier Falls trail heads for the gap at the S end of the small ridge ahead. Bow Glacier Falls is visible above the small ridge.
Looking NE back at the stream from Bow Glacier Falls on its way to Bow Lake. A small section of Bow Lake is visible through the trees. The bottom of the stairs leading up the small ridge is in the foreground.
Looking NE back at the stream from Bow Glacier Falls on its way to Bow Lake. A small section of Bow Lake is visible through the trees. The bottom of the stairs leading up the small ridge is in the foreground.

As the trail climbs the stairway, it can be seen that the stream from Bow Glacier Falls is passing in a torrent through a very narrow, but deep gorge just to the S of the trail.  The gorge is so narrow that near the top there is a huge boulder wedged high up between the edges of the gorge.  The boulder spans the gorge creating a natural bridge.  People cross this boulder to a side trail that heads S into a gorgeous valley leading to St. Nicholas Peak, Mount Olive and part of the Wapta Icefield.

(Note:  Later in the day, on the way back from Bow Glacier Falls, SPHP really wanted to go explore this wonderful valley to the S, but crossing the boulder looked just too scary.  Although the boulder was very large, it was rounded, not flat.  It really wasn’t all that tricky, but the roaring water gushing through the narrow chasm below gave SPHP visions of Lupe’s claws being unable to hang onto the solid rock of the boulder, and Lupe falling into the raging torrent to be lost forever.  No valley, no matter how wonderful, was worth a chance of losing the sweet dingo.  If SPHP had thought of exploring this valley earlier, it would have been easy to just cross the stream below Bow Glacier Falls and head for this valley.)

The wonderful valley to the S that SPHP was too chicken to let Lupe explore.
The wonderful valley to the S that SPHP was too chicken to let Lupe explore.

Once on top of the small ridge, Bow Glacier Falls is in clear view ahead.  The trail drops partway back down the other side of the ridge and then steadily climbs through a mostly barren rocky area.  This area is roughly the same size as the area between Bow Lake and the small ridge.  The climb steepens as the trail nears the falls, but it’s pretty easy.  It never gets all that steep.  The trail ultimately disappears among the rocks near the base of the falls.

Lupe reaches Bow Glacier Falls.
Lupe reaches Bow Glacier Falls.

Lupe at Bow Glacier Falls, Banff NP 7-25-13Lupe and SPHP climbed up very close to the falls, had a snack and photo session, and then climbed even higher until almost in the falls itself.  Lupe and SPHP lingered there for a while enjoying the sound of the water and the amazing world on display.

SPHP took this photo looking NE from Bow Glacier Falls. It wasn't until writing this post on 8-2-15, that SPHP realized this is a photo of Cirque Mountain, which Lupe climbed on 7-27-14 during her 2014 Dingo Vacation.
SPHP took this photo on 7-25-13 looking NE from Bow Glacier Falls. It wasn’t until writing this post on 8-2-15, that SPHP realized this is a photo of Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.) which Lupe climbed on 7-27-14 during her 2014 Dingo Vacation.  (She went up the long slope at the right.)  Click this red link to view the post on Lupe’s ascent of Cirque Peak which includes a view of Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls and the huge Wapta Icefield from the summit!

There was almost no one left on the trail by the time Lupe made her return trip to Bow Lake and Num-Ti-Jah lodge.  Lupe and SPHP drove a short distance to the SE along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to a picnic ground located on the E side of Bow Lake.  Here Lupe and SPHP spent the rest of the evening having a very pleasant time looking at the mountains and watching the sun sparkle on Bow Lake as it slowly sank behind the glorious Canadian Rockies.

Early evening at Bow Lake from the Bow Glacier Trail.
Early evening at Bow Lake from the Bow Glacier Trail.  The picnic ground is located among the trees across the lake along the shore seen on the left side of this photo.  Photo looks SE.
Crowfoot Glacier above Bow Lake.
Crowfoot Glacier above Bow Lake.

Bow Lake, Banff NP 7-25-13Links:

Next Adventure                 Prior Adventure

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Cirque Peak, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-14)

The hike up to the summit of Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.) in Banff National Park was recommended by a couple of friendly Canadians that Lupe and SPHP ran into on a different trail a couple days before.  Those Canadians really knew what they were talking about!  This is a fairly long day hike, but the scenery is absolutely wonderful.  From the summit of Cirque Peak are splendid 360° views.  The most impressive of all is the view to the SW of Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls, and another even higher little lake and falls all fed by the giant Wapta Icefield.

The trailhead for this hike is the Helen Lake Trailhead along the E side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  It is located directly across the highway from the pullout for viewing the Crowfoot Glacier at the S end of Bow Lake.

Lupe got off to an early start on this fabulous hike, leaving from the Helen Lake Trailhead at 6:45 AM.  The skies were totally clear, the wind non-existent, and it was a crisp 39 °F out.

The first part of the 14.5 km hike to Cirque Peak is the 6 km trek to Helen Lake, which basically consists of two parts.  On the first part, the trail starts out climbing fairly steeply through the forest.  Pretty soon the rate of climb slackens and the trail gradually works its way SSE towards the S end of the high ridge to the E.  Through occasional breaks in the forest, increasingly impressive views of the Crowfoot Glacier to the SSW, Bow Peak to the S, and Mt. Andromache and Mt. Hector to the SSE are seen as the trail gains elevation.

Bow Peak (R) and Mt. Hector (Center) from the Helen Lake Trail
Mt. Andromache (9,829 ft.) (L), Mt. Hector (11,135 ft.) (Center L), and Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) (R) from the Helen Lake Trail.

About 1/2 way to Helen Lake, the trail finally rounds the S end of the ridge to the E and the view changes.  A large deep valley heads up towards Cirque Peak now visible to the N.  Dolomite Peak, which has somewhat the appearance of the spine of a Stegosaurus with the top of the N end of the spine snapped off, lies to the E of the valley.

Dolomite Mountain to the E of the Helen Lake Trail.
Dolomite Peak (9,383 ft.) to the E of the Helen Lake Trail.
Cirque Mountain looms to the NNE shortly after the Helen Lake Trail rounds the S end of the ridge.
Cirque Peak looms ahead to the N shortly after the Helen Lake Trail rounds the S end of the ridge.

The trail is already pretty high up on the W side of the valley, near the tree line.  It heads N towards Cirque Peak, now along the E side of the ridge the trail just rounded.  The valley below to the E is heavily forested, but the trail ahead goes through stretches of open heather, stunted forests and scattered trees.  The trail is now nearly level for a fairly long stretch, and even has a few occasional drops as well.  Numerous hoary marmots whistle their alarms as one approaches, which greatly interested Lupe.

Lupe cools off in the creek near Helen Lake, Banff National Park
The creek below Helen Lake along the Helen Lake Trail, Banff National Park
Lupe gets refreshed in the creek near Helen Lake, Banff National Park, Canada
Lupe gets refreshed in the creek near Helen Lake, Banff National Park, Canada

Eventually the trail resumes its climb and rises above tree line, crossing open heather while gaining elevation at a comfortable pace.  Lupe came to a nice creek flowing through a small ravine where she was able to cool off and get a good drink.

Lupe on the Helen Lake Trail. Mt, Andromache (L) and Mt. Hector (R) to the S.
Lupe on the Helen Lake Trail.  Mt. Andromache (Center L) and Mt. Hector (Center) to the S.

Soon after crossing the creek, the trail comes over a ridge from which Helen Lake can be seen just ahead.  A headwall is visible not far to the N and E of Helen Lake.  The long rocky S ridge coming down from the summit of Cirque Peak is seen above the headwall.  Helen Lake itself seemed more like a pretty green pond than a lake.  It just wasn’t terribly big.  Something (small fish?) seemed to be hitting the surface of the still waters of Helen Lake while Lupe trotted by heading E on the trail above the S shore.

Helen Lake (R) comes into view below Cirque Peak. Banff National Park, Canada.
Lupe reaches Helen Lake below Cirque Peak.  Dolomite Pass is beyond the headwall at the right side of the photo.  Banff National Park, Canada.

Lupe met the first other hiker of the day at Helen Lake.  A fisherman looking to catch a few cutthroat trout was heading for considerably larger Katherine Lake on the other side of Dolomite Pass.  He overtook SPHP, but stopped briefly to chat and pat Lupe before continuing on.  Lupe continued on as well and followed the trail up over the headwall to the E of Helen Lake reaching the start of the Dolomite Pass area.

Cirque Peak from Dolomite Pass, Banff National Park, Canada
Cirque Peak from Dolomite Pass, Banff National Park, Canada

At Dolomite Pass, it was time to leave the trail.  The trail continued over the pass to the E, but Cirque Peak was now almost due N.  A broad rocky plain with little vegetation stretched off to the N gradually losing elevation until it got close to the S ridge coming down from Cirque Peak.  SPHP did not notice any clear trail or cairns suggesting which way to go.  So SPHP was uncertain whether to try to go up the toe of the S ridge or up the side of it a bit to the NE of the toe, but decided to head N and try the side of the ridge.

Now N of Dolomite Pass, Lupe cools off in "Gnat Pond" at the base of Cirque Peak.
Now N of Dolomite Pass, Lupe cools off in “Gnat Pond” at the base of Cirque Peak.

After a pleasant easy stroll across the rocky plain, Lupe and SPHP arrived at a very shallow pond at the base of the S ridge a bit NE of the toe.  There was water in the cracks between the rocks around the pond from which clouds of gnats swarmed up.  SPHP led Lupe around the E side of the pond and over to the S ridge.

Lupe E of "Gnat Pond" at the base of Cirque Peak. This photo looks W and shows a portion of the Crowfoot Glacier.
Lupe E of “Gnat Pond” at the base of Cirque Peak. This photo looks SW and shows a portion of the Crowfoot Glacier beneath the distant ridge at the right side of the photo.

The rocks forming the side of the S ridge looked a lot bigger than they had from a distance.  In fact, they were boulders of various sizes.  It didn’t look like too hard a climb to get up on the ridge though, so Lupe and SPHP started scrambling up the side of the ridge.  The ridge had several little false summits and near the real top there were rock walls.  However, after some false starts and various explorations, the top of the ridge was gained.

The SW ridge leading up to Cirque Peak.
The S ridge leading up to Cirque Peak.

Once on top of the S ridge, the way up Cirque Peak was obvious – just follow the ridge right on up.  The ridge was pretty broad, there were several unmaintained trails, and the rocks on top of the ridge were nearly all small – not boulders – so it was easy to just keep trudging on up the mountain.  Lung capacity was the only limiting factor.  However, lung capacity quickly came into play, as the long climb up the ridge became progressively steeper.

The small loose rocks and mud forming the ridge started to give way beneath every step.  Even Lupe was sending showers of small rocks sliding as she climbed.  SPHP felt guilty about greatly increasing the erosion rate just by struggling up the mountain.  The slope of the mountain near the top seemed to be the maximum slope that the laws of physics would allow for such a loose pile of dirt and rock to even support itself.

Near the very top of Cirque Peak, the loose rock finally met up with a 30 to 50 foot layer of dark gray solid rock.  Fortunately, the solid rock was not just a wall, and was climbable without any great difficulty.  When Lupe reached the summit, there were two people there ahead of her.  They had passed Lupe and SPHP on the steepest part of the loose rock not far from the summit a short time before, and were the first to arrive at the summit of Cirque Peak this day.  They said they were originally from Hungary, but were now living in Canada.

Lupe checks out the view to the NW towards Peyto Lake from Cirque Peak.
Lupe checks out the view to the SSW towards the Crowfoot Glacier and the S end of Bow Lake from the false summit of Cirque Peak.

The Hungarians quickly pointed out that technically Lupe and SPHP were still only at a false summit.  The true summit of Cirque Peak was a slightly higher rocky crag just a short distance to the E.  The Hungarians had already been there.  Lupe and SPHP rested and had some water at the false summit while the Hungarians were still there.

The false summit area wasn’t terribly big and was almost completely surrounded by cliffs or very long steep slopes.  Fortunately, there were some good solid rocks providing relatively comfortable and secure perches.  It felt like being up in a small plane with so much air around in every direction.

Dolomite Peak, Mt. Andromache & Mt. Hector to the S from Cirque Peak.
Dolomite Peak, Mt. Andromache & Mt. Hector (progressively more distant near the center of the photo) to the SSE from Cirque Peak.

The views from Cirque Peak were spectacular in every direction.  To the S were Dolomite Peak, Mt. Andromache, Mt. Hector, and way off in the distance was a glimpse of Mt. Assiniboine (11,864 ft.).  Far below was “Gnat Pond” at the base of the S ridge of Cirque Peak, and even farther below was Helen Lake.  Portions of Katherine Lake were visible beyond Dolomite Pass.

View to the N from Cirque Peak.
View to the N from Cirque Peak.  A portion of Peyto Lake is visible at the left side of this photo.

To the E was a broad expanse of air before reaching jagged mountains beyond a deep valley.  To the N, a snowfield or small glacier lay far, far below Lupe and SPHP at the base of the towering N cliffs of Cirque Peak.  A thin, treacherous ridge extended NW from Cirque Peak just to the W of the snowfield.  Beyond were more mountains and Peyto Lake in the distance.

Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls & the Wapta Icefield from Cirque Peak.
Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls & the Wapta Icefield from Cirque Peak.

The most magnificent view of all though lay to the SW.  Most of Bow Lake was in sight and beyond it Bow Glacier Falls.  A lake Lupe and SPHP had never seen before was above Bow Glacier Falls, and another waterfall plunged into it from the Bow Glacier extending out from the vast expanse of the Wapta Icefield.

Lupe on the true summit of Cirque Peak and the view to the E.
Lupe on the true summit of Cirque Peak and the view to the E.

Once the Hungarians started down, Lupe and SPHP worked their way over to the true summit of Cirque Peak.  This involved a climb down of maybe 20 to 30 feet, traversing a fairly narrow saddle with dizzying drops on either side, and an easy climb up a craggy knob slightly higher than the false summit to the W.

The rocky E crag that is the true summit of Cirque Peak. NOT a good place to race around chasing squirrels!
The rocky E crag that is the true summit of Cirque Peak. NOT a good place to race around chasing squirrels!

Incredibly, after reaching the true summit, Lupe found a squirrel way up here and about gave SPHP a heart attack by chasing it around the rocks oblivious to the cliffs all around her.  Lupe was quickly brought under control again and taken back to the false summit for a more secure vantage point from which to appreciate the stupendous scenery.

Conditions on Cirque Peak were near perfect.  The sky was now partly cloudy, but mostly sunny and non-threatening.  Amazingly, there was no wind at all most of the time, just a gentle breeze that came up now and then.  Temperatures were in the upper 50’s or low 60’s.  Visibility was wonderful.  Lupe remained on top of Cirque Peak as long as she and SPHP were the only ones up there, which was quite some time.

The SW ridge, the way back down Cirque Peak, as seen from the top. "Gnat Pond" (L) and Helen Lake (Center L) far below.
The S ridge, the way back down Cirque Peak, as seen from just below the solid rock layer at the top. “Gnat Pond” (L) and Helen Lake (Center L) far below.

Visible below, however, were lots of hikers strung out all along the SW ridge making their way steadily up.  When the next hikers finally got close, Lupe started down Cirque Peak just in time to get off the layer of solid rock before meeting up with the next party and their dog, Ella, at the very top of the steep slope of loose rocks.

Lupe meets Ella and her humans at the base of the solid rock layer which forms the summit of Cirque Peak.
Lupe meets Ella and her humans at the base of the solid rock layer which forms the summit of Cirque Peak.

Even more loose rocks showered down the steep upper slopes of Cirque Peak on the way down than on the way up.  Lupe had to lose a lot of elevation before reaching firm footing again.  On the way back down, SPHP learned that the proper route onto the S ridge was NOT the climb over the boulders above the shallow pond, but via an unmaintained trail heading N along the top of the headwall E of Helen Lake.

This trail eventually winds its way up onto the rocky toe of the S ridge.  There were cairns along the headwall marking the path, but SPHP had gone too far E to have noticed them on the way up.  Lupe and SPHP followed other hikers down off the S ridge via this route and saw that it was much superior to the way they’d come up in the morning.

Dolomite Peak (which SPHP thinks looks like a Stegosaurus with the N end of the spine snapped off) and Mt. Hector from the SW ridge of Cirque Peak.
Dolomite Peak (which SPHP thinks looks like a Stegosaurus with the N end of the spine snapped off) and Mt. Hector from the S ridge of Cirque Peak.

The rest of the hike back to the Helen Lake Trailhead was just retracing the hike up earlier in the day.  There were lots of people around on the way back, compared to virtually none on the way up.  Lupe arrived back at the trailhead at 4:54 PM.  It was 68 °F, partly cloudy and calm.  Lupe and SPHP headed to the picnic ground near the S end of Bow Lake for a shared evening meal of sardines.  Then it was time for a bit of relaxation soaking tired paws and feet in the cold lake while watching sunlight sparkle brilliantly on the waves.

This photo of Bow Lake showing the Crowfoot Glacier was taken on 7-25-13 on Lupe's 2013 Dingo Vacation to Canada.
This photo of Bow Lake showing the Crowfoot Glacier was taken on 7-25-13 on Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to Canada.
P1050127
The Crowfoot Glacier above the S end of Bow Lake on 7-25-13. This photo was taken not far from the picnic ground near the S end of Bow Lake on Lupe’s prior 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies.

Lupe and SPHP strongly recommend the hike up Cirque Peak if conditions are good.  The fantastic views are well worth the effort.  However, under wet conditions, the hike up the S ridge of Cirque Peak is probably a horrible muddy slog to be avoided, even if visibility is acceptable.

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Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

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