Oh, Canada! – The Long Road North: To The Canadian Rockies & Beyond! (7-30-22 thru 8-3-22)

Days 1-5 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-30-22, 2:30 PM, 92ºF, home – Hours of preparations and excitement had led to this!  Resting high on her pink blanket covering a pile of supplies and padding, Lupe smiled broadly in happy anticipation of what was next.  The American Dingo was about to set off on her 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation, and this wasn’t just any old Dingo Vacation, oh no!

Are we really going to Canada and Alaska, SPHP?  It’s been 3 years!  I was afraid we might not ever see them again!

SPHP tried to sound convincingly cheerful.

Absolutely, sweet puppy!  At least, if Canada will actually let us cross the border.  Think I’ve got everything all lined up.  We’ll just have to see how it goes.  Should be fine, Canada is officially open again!

Before turning the key, SPHP looked over at Lupe.  She was so beautiful, and so happy!  This late July afternoon truly was a rare and wonderful occasion, only the 5th time the Carolina Dog had ever set off for Alaska!

Epic!  Yet also bittersweet.  SPHP was filled with grief and remorse.  The left side of Lupe’s face had an ugly wound on it.  Brand new.  And it was all SPHP’s fault on this otherwise joyful day.

Loopster ready to set out for Canada & Alaska for the first time in 3 years!

Happened just yesterday.  At some point in the last month or so Lupe must have rolled in something, because she’d had a black, sticky, tar-like substance clinging to a small clump of fur on her face for the last several weeks.  When it wouldn’t wash off, wanting Loop to look her finest for her next big Dingo Vacation, SPHP had gotten out a scissors to cut away that little clump of gooey fur.

The tar was tougher, and provided more resistance than expected, but a few seconds of cutting with the scissors had finally done the trick.  The tar came off, but when it did, SPHP was instantly shocked and horrified.

Oh, no!  Oh my gosh, Lupe!  What have I done?  I’ve cut your beautiful face wide open!  You didn’t flinch, or bark, or shy away from me.  You should have bit me!  Instead you just looked trustingly into my eyes and let me do this terrible, painful thing to you.  I’m so sorry!  How could I have been so careless and such an idiot?  We’re going to the puppy doctor!

At the emergency clinic, the puppy doctor cut away a loose flap of skin with beautiful fur still clinging to it that was going to die anyway, fully exposing the hideous wound.  The wound wasn’t deep, just a fleshy spot the size of a nickel seeping a little blood.  Staples or stitches to close the gap weren’t required, but Lupe’s fur wasn’t likely to ever grow back.  She would always have a scar.

Lupe went home with an anti-biotic cream and pain pills.

SPHP was guilty, guilty, guilty, but there was nothing more to be done.

Oh, Lupe!  We’re going to have so many grand adventures in Canada and Alaska on this Dingo Vacation!  Going to be just like old times!  You ready?

I can hardly wait, SPHP!

SPHP turned the key, and backed the RAV4 out of the driveway.  After 3 long years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way!

7-31-22, 7:18 AM, 52ºF Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Exactly 3 weeks ago, on the last day of her prior Dingo Vacation to Wyoming, Lupe had been by here on an evening so cold and windy that SPHP had chickened out and driven her straight home.  The Carolina Dog was back, though!  From the Bald Mountain campground off Hwy 14A, Loop trotted toward the familiar open slopes of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).

Setting out for Bald Mountain (L). Photo looks SE.

Are we going to fix the names, SPHP?

We are!  Hard to believe, but it’s been 4 years since we’ve been up on Bald Mountain, Loopster.  A little maintenance is likely in order.

Make that quite a bit of maintenance.  The names were still there, but in poor condition when Lupe found them not too far from the NW end of the vast summit region.  The American Dingo had plenty of time to sniff about while SPHP made extensive repairs.

Loopster by her reconstituted name on Bald Mountain. Photo looks SE.

Once the names were back in order, Lupe naturally completed the easy stroll to the true summit.  Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) and it’s giant FAA golf ball were in sight several miles back to the NW, but all the more distant views were hazy.

Medicine Mountain (L of Center) from Bald Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks NW.

The entire American West fills up with smoke every summer, doesn’t it Looper?  Didn’t use to be that way.

Oh, but aren’t we the lucky ones, SPHP?  Bet we won’t have to worry about smoke once we get far enough N into Canada!

Sure hope you’re right, Loop, and suspect you are, but you never know.  Remember how smoky even Alaska was in 2019?

5:01 PM, 81ºF, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Bald Mountain had been a great morning romp!  Most of the rest of the day had been a long, hot drive from Wyoming on into Montana.  So many cows and horses to bark at!  It had been a wonderful, if shrill time.  Late afternoon now, but Lupe had made it here early enough to honor a long-standing tradition.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)!  We really, truly are going to Canada, aren’t we, SPHP?  We always come here first!

Almost always, Loop.  We didn’t the first time in 2013, but ever since then, yeah.  The Little Belt Mountains are a nice, cool spot to spend a night.

We always climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) when we do come here, SPHP.  So which will it be?  Any preference?

Yes, but we really don’t have to choose between them.  Should have time to visit both!  Whad’ya say we climb Kings Hill first?

Kings Hill true summit. Photo looks S.
Porphyry Peak (L) from Kings Hill. Photo looks WNW.
Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower. Photo looks ENE.
Big Baldy Mountain (Center) from Porphyry Peak. Photo looks NNE.

8-1-22, 12:05 PM, I-15 at Port of Coutts, Montana/Canada border – Only 2 Canadian customs lanes were open.  The RAV4 was 6th in line.

Moment of truth coming up, Loopster!  Hope they don’t make us wait.  Told them on Arrive-CAN that we wouldn’t be here until 3:00 PM.

Waiting won’t be so bad, SPHP, provided Canada ultimately lets us in.  You had to specify the exact hour of arrival?

Yeah.  Knew we’d be here by noon, but decided to give ourselves some slack just in case.  Don’t know what we’ll do if Canada says no, and just sends us away.  We’ll have to plan an entirely different Dingo Vacation, pronto.

Canadian customs, Port of Coutts opposite Sweetgrass, Montana.

For 10 minutes the line seemed stuck.  No movement.  Then suddenly whatever had been the hold-up was over.  Soon SPHP was handing a US passport to the Canadian customs agent.  2 minutes later, the RAV4 was picking up speed, heading N!

Whoo-hoo!  We’re in, Loop!  You’re back in, Canada!  On to Lethbridge!

That was easy, SPHP!  Same old questions they always ask you.

Yup!  Not a word about Covid-19.  All that hassle and worry over nothing.

Our reputation as world class anti-social distancers must have preceded us, SPHP.

Oh, yes!  I’m sure that’s it, Looper.  Anyway, I’m glad it went the way it did.  Smooth sailing now!

So, what’s next, SPHP?  Where are we going first?

Mostly just driving again today, Loopster.  Been so long since we’ve been to Canada and Alaska that I want to make tracks N as fast as we can the next few days.  That doesn’t mean we can’t take the scenic route, though.  How about something old and something new this afternoon?

You’re being coy, SPHP, but OK, surprise me!

Hwy 40 over Highwood Pass was the scenic route.  Kananaskis Country!  Peter Lougheed Provincial Park!  The American Dingo hadn’t been to beautiful Upper Kananaskis Lake since 2014, but saw it again today.

Storm Mountain (10,153 ft.) (Center) from Hwy 40 on the way to Highwood Pass. Photo looks NNE.
Gap Mountain (8,661 ft.) (L) from Highwood Pass. Photo looks NW.
Gorgeous Upper Kananaskis Lake. Photo looks NW.

After a pleasant half hour at Upper Kananaskis Lake, the something new was a trip along washboardy Smith-Dorrien Road, the purpose being to see the Spray Lakes Reservoir for the first time ever.  An odd trail from a picnic ground led a short distance down through a forest to a small cliff overlooking the lake.  A better lakeshore viewpoint appeared only a few miles farther N along the road.

Spray Lakes Reservoir. Big Sister (9,633 ft.) (R of Center). Photo looks N.
On the odd trail overlooking Spray Lakes Reservoir. Photo looks SW.
A better view from right along the shoreline. Photo looks S.

By evening, Lupe was in Banff!

Oh, SPHP!  I love Banff!  Can we do my traditional Pretty Puppy Parade up and down Banff Avenue?  Haven’t done it in ever so long!

Absolutely, Loopster!  Can’t miss out on the Pretty Puppy Parade!

Banff had changed since the last time Lupe was here.  Vehicles were no longer permitted in the heart of downtown.  People were dining at tables out in the street, and a new footbridge was under construction over the Bow River.  Banff was still it’s same old festive self, though, with scenic Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) looming in the distance, lined-up perfectly with Banff Avenue.

The Pretty Puppy Parade, a stroll along Banff Avenue while taking in all the tourists, fancy shops, and sniffing with other dogs as opportunity arose, was a success as always.  3 young men from Maryland wanted to pet Lupe.  They told her how beautiful she was, which made her day!

Back in Banff on the Pretty Puppy Parade! Cascade Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
Bow River looking W toward the new footbridge.

8-2-22, 6:30 AM, Banff – Although the night had been warm, the morning was pleasantly cool as the RAV4 hit Hwy 1 on the way out of Banff.  An incredibly scenic drive was ahead.

Only one day to spend in the Canadian Rockies?  Not nearly enough, SPHP!

Oh, don’t I know it, Loopster?  Remember back in 2013 and 2014 when the Canadian Rockies were as far as we went on your Dingo Vacations?

We enjoyed many glorious adventures here, SPHP!

Indeed we did, Loop!  Even though we’re making tracks N, we’ll still stop at some of our favorite Canadian Rockies highlights today.

I suppose that’s something, SPHP, but sometime we need to come back to really explore again.

So many mountains, so little time!  Lupe was far from alone in wanting to spend more time in the Canadian Rockies.  Even though she reached the turn for Moraine Lake at 7:30 AM, the road was closed.  Signs said the Moraine Lake parking lot was already full.  Even the upper lot at Lake Louise was filling up fast, despite having to pay now.

Crowds had already gathered along the lake shore near the splendid Chateau Lake Louis when Lupe arrived.  Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) was still as spectacular as ever beyond the turquoise lake.

Mount Victoria (Center) from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.
Chateau Lake Louise.

Remember when we used to take the Plain of Six Glaciers trail all the way to the end to see the Death Trap, SPHP?

Of course, I do!  So much fun, we did it twice!  Even saw a wolverine once near the end of the day on the way back down to Lake Louise.  Remember our biggest adventure here, though, Loop?

How could I forget Fairview Mountain, when I’m looking right at it, SPHP?  The views of Mount Victoria, Mount Temple (11,614 ft.), and so many others were absolutely incredible from up there!  We explored Saddle Mountain (7,963 ft.), too!

Fairview Mountain (L) and Mount Victoria (R) from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.

It was a shame Moraine Lake was too crowded to visit, but continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, Lupe got to stop at beautiful Bow Lake, another jumping off region for several fabulous Dingo adventures once upon a time.  Mount Jimmy Simpson was in sight beyond red-roofed Num-Ti-Jah Lodge from the picnic ground along the E shoe.

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from Bow Lake. Photo looks NW.

From over by the lodge, Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) and the Crowfoot Glacier were in sight to the SE.  Bow Glacier Falls and the Bow Glacier above it were visible to the SW.

Bow Peak (L) and the Crowfoot Glacier (R) from Bow Lake. Photo looks SE.
Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls (Center) from Bow Lake. Photo looks SW.

Can we go to Bow Glacier Falls, SPHP?  That’s an awesome trail!

I’d love to, Loopster, but think we should press on.  How about we take the Parker Ridge trail, instead?  Won’t take quite as long.

Parker Ridge (7,612 ft.) near the N end of Banff National Park was a bit of a drive yet.  However, by 10:45 AM, Lupe was on the popular trail that switchbacks roughly 900 feet up to the crest of the ridge.  A short distance beyond the crest she came to the fabulous scenic reward – a splendid view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

Saskatchewan Glacier (L) from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW.

A fun off-trail jaunt on grassy slopes among minor rock formations up to Parker Ridge’s E high point provided an even more spectacular vantage point.  Almost completely snow-clad Castleguard Mountain (10,098 ft.) was in sight across the canyon at the far upper end of the Saskatchewan Glacier.  On this side of the canyon, both Hilda Peak (10,039 ft.) and mighty Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) were in view.

Heading for the Parker Ridge E high point (Center). Photo looks E.
At the Parker Ridge E summit. Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (L), Mount Athabasca (R), Hilda Peak (far R). Photo looks WSW.
Zoomed in a little. Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (Center). Photo looks SW.

Mount Saskatchewan (10,965 ft.) loomed in the distance beyond a long section of the North Saskatchewan River canyon visible below the lake at the toe of the glacier.

Mount Saskatchewan (far L), Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Looking NW, Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in sight beyond Sunwapta Pass.  Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.) stood out just N of the pass.

Mount Athabasca (L), Hilda Peak (beyond cairn), Sunwapta Pass and Mount Wilcox (beyond Lupe), Nigel Peak (R). Photo looks NW.

Tremendous views all around, but it was hard not to just keep coming back to that magnificent spectacle of the Saskatchewan Glacier!

Castleguard Mountain (L) and the Saskatchewan Glacier (L of Center) from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW.
Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Parker Ridge was the big outing of the day, but far from the last scenic stop.  Sunwapta Pass where Jasper National Park began was only a bit farther N, and just down the road from the pass the Athabasca Glacier was in view right from the highway.  A must see!

Mount Andromeda (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (Center). Photo looks SW.
Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The Athabasca Glacier was it for the day as far as glaciers.  Continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, some incredible waterfalls were the new focus.  Sunwapta Falls came first, followed by Athabasca Falls.  Both were foaming gray torrents, thundering into narrow gorges below.

Between these falls, Lupe got to stop at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River.  The American Dingo enjoyed a romp through the forest looking for squirrels, but didn’t see any.

Sunwapta Falls. Photo looks NE.
Near the brink. Photo looks NE.
Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground. Photo looks S.
At Athabasca Falls.
Mount Kerkeslin (9,698 ft.) from Athabasca Falls. Photo looks SE.

After a quick refueling stop in Jasper, the RAV4 rolled on, taking Lupe W into British Columbia on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  The American Dingo got out briefly for a look at Moose Lake, and yet again for a pleasant trek down to Overlander Falls, where she scrambled among the rocks by the huge swirling whirlpool below it.

Moose Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park.
How Overlander Falls got its name.
Down by the whirlpool.

The evening ended on a gloomier note with Mount Robson (12,989 ft.), highest peak of the Canadian Rockies, shrouded in clouds and light rain.

At least we got to see Mount Robson before, SPHP.  Remember when we went through the Valley of a Thousand Falls all the way to Berg Lake?

Yes!  A fantastic trail, Looper.  We ought to do that again someday.

8-3-22, 7:31 AM – Fog drifted among the mountains.  Still overcast, gray clouds spit light rain.  Good day for a long drive!  Arriving fairly early, Lupe did get out of the RAV4 for a little while to visit Rearguard Falls, which she had all to herself this morning.  Like all the other waterfalls Looper had been to yesterday, the sheer volume and power of the flow was overwhelming.

Rearguard Falls is the upper limit of the Fraser River’s Chinook salmon run.
On the elaborate boardwalk leading down to the falls.
Right next to Rearguard Falls, which is actually more like a big rapids.
Rearguard Falls. Both Rearguard and Overlander Falls are on the Fraser River.
By the Fraser River just upstream of Rearguard Falls.

The next stop came 1.5 hours later at the Goat River rest area, a favorite secluded spot on the way to Prince George.  Without any signage, SPHP missed the turn, and had to go back.

Enjoying a sniff at the secluded Goat River rest area.
Along the Goat River near the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge.
Goat River downstream view.

Lupe’s final stop before Prince George was at the Ancient Forest.  With time somewhat of the essence, the Carolina Dog did only the basic main loop, instead of the entire trail system as she’d done once before.  That still allowed her to visit both Treebeard and the Radies Tree again, two enormous 1,000 year old western red cedars.

Arriving at the Ancient Forest.
Lupe explored only the main loop (in green) today.
On the raised boardwalk near the start of the loop.
About the ancient western red cedars.
Among the ferns on the way to the upper part of the loop.
Treebeard, named after J.R.R Tolkien’s ent from middle earth.
Info about the Radies tree.
Radies tree.

With many miles to go, it could rain all day long, if it wanted to, which it did off and on.  Lupe snoozed on her pink blanket most of the afternoon, occasionally opening an eye to gaze out the window.  Going to Alaska!  Could anything be more fun?  The drive through the drizzle was so very scenic and soothing.  A marvelous day!

8-3-22, 5:22 PM – The afternoon was about shot by the time Lupe reached her next stop of any significance.  Can’t miss the dazzling flower gardens at Steelhead Park in the little town of Houston!  An impressive variety of lilies seemed to be the specialty this year.

Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia.
Lilies.

Many other kinds of flowers and decorative plants were featured, too.  Steelhead Park isn’t very big, so Lupe had time to visit nearly the entire collection.  The only genuine disappointment was that the fountain still wasn’t working.  It hadn’t been in 2019, either, the last time Loop was here, but had always been operational before then.

Another colorful display.
By the Steelhead fountain.

Wonder why they don’t fix it, SPHP?  The fountain was always such a lovely centerpiece!

Lack of funds, I suppose, Looper.  Seems a shame, doesn’t it?

8-3-22, 6:21 PM, Telkwa – The sky remained overcast as Lupe stood on a new sidewalk on a levee overlooking the Bulkley River.

Bulkley River, Telkwa, British Columbia.

Not much farther to Smithers now, Looper.  We’ll be there soon.

Smithers!  That’s where Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) is, SPHP!  And the Babine Mountains, too.  Remember Harvey Mountain, the Onions, and Astlais Mountain?

Sure do, Loop!  Hope the weather clears up tomorrow!  Been 5 days, and we’re nearly 1,800 miles from home now.  That ought to be about enough driving for a while.

Oh, are we going to climb a mountain tomorrow, SPHP?

If the weather cooperates, Loopster.  We’ll see.

On the way to Smithers, a small patch of blue appeared to the N, and the sky brightened to the W.  At dusk in Driftwood Canyon, it almost looked like the whole sky was starting to clear, but it was hard to tell for sure.

Along the Bulkley River, Telkwa, British Columbia, Canada 8-3-22

Links:

Next Adventure                         Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Smoke & Water – The Canadian Rockies to the Babine Mountains (8-7-18 & 8-8-18)

Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53°F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.).  Yesterday she’d had the grand good fortune to make it to the summit, but mountain climbing wasn’t on the agenda today.  This was a rest and travel day.

Not the kind of hurried, don’t stop for anything except restrooms, fuel, and food sort of travel.  The Canadian Rockies are too wonderful for that!  Although the American Dingo was going hundreds of miles, she would still have opportunities to stop at favorite places along the road.

So that was the plan.  By the time Lupe reached Jasper National Park, though, the sky was uncharacteristically hazy.  Smoke from distant forest fires dimmed normally crisp views of the mountains.

8-7-18, 9:09 AM, 58°F, Icefields Centre, Jasper National Park – Smoky, but not bad.  SPHP stopped so Lupe could see one of the Canadian Rockies’ most amazing views from the highway, the Athabasca Glacier.  The huge glacier, one of six major arms of the Columbia Icefield, has retreated a long way over the past century, but remains a must see, if one has any opportunity at all!

Of course, Lupe had seen the Athabasca Glacier before – a couple of times from an even more spectacular vantage point up by Wilcox Pass.  Despite the smoke, the view from the highway was still absolutely worthwhile.

The Athabasca Glacier is a must see attraction of the Canadian Rockies! Photo looks SW.
Mount Athabasca, one of several splendid peaks near the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SSE.
Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe and SPHP continued N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the smoky haze did not diminish.  The smoke marred views of the mountains, but didn’t interfere with sights closer by.  Waterfalls, rivers, and lakes were destined to become the focus for the day.  Luckily, the Carolina Dog was going to go right past some great ones!

8-7-18, 9:57 AM, 62°F, Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park – The first big waterfall N of the Athabasca Glacier was Sunwapta Falls.  The silt-laden Sunwapta River was running high.  A torrent of light gray water swept by an upstream island then plunged into a narrow gorge immediately downstream.

Lupe checked out the impressive scene from both a bridge over the gorge, and a chain link fence at the very brink of the falls.

Sunwapta Falls. The Sunwapta River starts at Sunwapta Pass at the S end of Jasper National Park. Meltwaters from the Athabasca Glacier contribute to the flow.
Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen Sunwapta Falls with such tremendous flow before!

8-7-18, 10:28 AM, 68°F, Athabasca River, Jasper National Park – The Sunwapta River flows into the mighty Athabasca River.  Athabasca Falls was going to be absolutely roaring today!  Before Lupe got that far, though, SPHP stopped at the American Dingo’s favorite picnic ground on the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

This choice spot right along the Athabasca River was often completely vacant several years ago when Lupe first discovered it.  For some reason there hadn’t been any signage for it along the highway.  Signage was sadly present now, but since it was still a bit early for lunch, Lupe found her picnic ground delightfully quiet again this morning.

Loop enjoyed a stroll upstream along the Athabasca River, spent some time roaming the forest looking for squirrels to bark at, and even went wading along the river’s edge.  Having skipped breakfast, SPHP had an early lunch at one of the tables overlooking the river, while catching up the trip journal.

How’s this for a view from your picnic table? There’s always squirrels in the forest, too!
I’ll stay right by the edge here, SPHP, promise! I remember that giant waterfall downstream. Not going over that! Loop in the Athabasca River.

8-7-18, 11:31 AM, 75°F, Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park – The turn to Athabasca Falls was only 5 miles N of the picnic ground.  This close to noon on a lovely day in early August, Athabasca Falls was teeming with tourists.  Justifiably so.  Lupe and SPHP played tourist, too.  It was a wait your turn at the viewpoints situation, but totally worth it.

Lupe liked all the activity!  People smiled at her, children petted her, plenty of other doggie tourists were available to sniff with, and, of course, there was that enormously powerful waterfall to admire.

Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park.
Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park.
Even if you have to wait in line, just do it! Athabasca Falls is so impressive!
Athabasca Falls is 20 miles S of Jasper just off Icefields Parkway Highway 93.

8-7-18, 1:07 PM, Yellowhead Pass – The morning had flown by.  After a stop for fuel in Jasper, SPHP drove W on Yellowhead Hwy 16.  Only 21 miles to the British Columbia border at Yellowhead Pass (3,760 ft.).

SPHP stopped here briefly, so Loop could stretch her legs.  A small lake, Portal Lake, was nearby.  A sign said there was a 20 minute return trail along Portal Lake, but Lupe didn’t take it.  Greater sights were ahead.

Lupe reaches British Colombia at Yellowhead Pass.
By Portal Lake at Yellowhead Pass.

8-7-18, 1:38 PM, 72°F, Moose Lake – At the British Columbia border, Lupe also entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.  Continuing W on Hwy 16, SPHP expected the sky to clear any time now, but instead the smoke was getting thicker.  By the time Lupe made it to Moose Lake, it was hard to see the mountains at all.

Fortunately, there were 2 more big waterfalls ahead to look forward to along the Fraser River.

At Yellowhead Pass, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.
Well, here we are at beautiful Moose Lake along Hwy 16, but it’s smokier than ever!

8-7-18, 1:58 PM, 75°F, Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The first waterfall on the Fraser River was Overlander Falls.  A trailhead was right along Hwy 16 just a mile or so before the Mount Robson Park visitor center.  Lupe took a shady 10 minute trail from Hwy 16 down a series of switchbacks to the gorgeous waterfall.

Overlander Falls was only 30 feet high, but the Fraser River gushing through a narrow gap and dropping into a huge swirling pool of pale blue-green waters was an amazing sight.  While relaxing by Overlander Falls, Lupe wound up making a new friend from Saskatchewan.

10 minutes on this lovely trail will get us down to Overlander Falls!
Overlander Falls is the uppermost of 2 major waterfalls on the Fraser River.
Overlander Falls isn’t as big as Sunwapta Falls or Athabasca Falls, but the color of the water and this big swirling pool are simply amazing!
The cool spray feels great!
There’s always time for love and new friends!

8-7-18, 3:16 PM, 78°F, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park – The second major waterfall along the Fraser River was only 10 miles from Overlander Falls.  Rearguard Falls has its own provincial park!  Once again, Lupe took a 10 or 15 minute trail from a trailhead right along Hwy 16 down to the waterfall.

Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as high as Overlander Falls, almost more of a giant rapids than a waterfall, but the breadth and strength of the water surging over it was also impressive.  A sign up by the parking lot said Rearguard Falls was as far up the Fraser River as salmon were able to make it.

Here’s the plan, SPHP! When we get down to the falls, I’ll race in and snag us one of the big salmon leaping out of the river, while you fight off the bears. Ready? Let’s do this!
I can almost taste that big delicious salmon already! Come on, it’s this way!
A first glimpse of Rearguard Falls from the trail.
How’s this for a snazzy walkway setup? We’re almost to Rearguard Falls now.
Rearguard Falls. The air was still smoky, but the Fraser River was simply gorgeous!
Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River.
So beautiful! Kind of a shame there aren’t any salmon here today, though. I was really looking forward to seeing SPHP fend off the grizzly bears, while I nabbed us dinner!

8-7-18, 5:06 PM, Goat River, British Columbia – After leaving Rearguard Falls, it hadn’t been much farther to the junction with Yellowhead South Hwy 5.  Nearly all the traffic went that way, heading for Kamloops.  Lupe and SPHP stayed on Yellowhead Hwy 16 going NW following the wide Fraser River valley.

The Fraser River was seldom in view, but this was now a most relaxing drive with virtually no traffic.  Loopster was well past McBride, the only community of any significant size, when, after crossing a bridge, a short side road led down to a rest area and picnic ground by the Goat River.  This was a beautiful spot Lupe had been to once before in 2016.

It wasn’t quite time to eat yet, but the Carolina Dog was happy making a brief exploration along the river.

Lupe enjoys a drink from the Goat River.
The Goat River was considerably higher than when Lupe had stopped here in 2016.
An upstream view. Still smoky out!

The Goat River was a nice break, but the last one of the day.  The long drive continued.  Lupe went through Prince George (86°F!) and beyond, still on Yellowhead Hwy 16.  The whole day, for hundreds of miles, had been smoky.  If anything, the smoke was getting worse.

8-7-18, 8:43 PM, 67°F, Dry Williams Lake – Beyond Fort Fraser a pinkish-red sun sank into the murk.  An eerie twilight developed.  The smoke was bad.  Nevertheless, time to call it a day.  A rest area appeared a few miles farther on at Dry Williams Lake.  This would do nicely!  There were picnic tables, and a mowed area where the American Dingo could romp with a view of the lake.

Lupe had gone a long way today.  The day’s highlights had all involved water in some form – a glacier, waterfalls, rivers and lakes.  Smoke had increasingly spoiled the mountain views, but it couldn’t last forever, could it?  After dinner (not fresh salmon unfortunately), the Carolina Dog curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets to snooze and dream of crystal blue skies tomorrow.

Evening at Dry Williams Lake.

8-8-18, 6:45 AM, 54°F, Dry Williams Lake – The sun rose as it had sunk last night, oddly colored from a murky sea of smoke where a horizon should have been.  Any dreams of crystal blue skies were apparently just that – dreams.  The forest fires must not be terribly far away.  The G6 was covered with a layer of ash.  A short stroll around the rest area to let Lupe do some sniffing, then it was time to hit the road again.

Sunrise at Dry Williams Lake.

Lupe had barely left Dry Williams Lake, when upon rounding a bend in the road, a patch of blue sky was visible to the N.  The end of the smoke!  Conditions improved steadily.  Crystal blue skies weren’t a mere dream!  It took an hour and a half to drive completely out of the smoke.  By then it wasn’t much farther to Houston.

A stop in Houston is traditional, perhaps even mandatory.  Lupe always visits Houston’s lovely Steelhead Park.  Hwy 16 goes right past it.  Loop wasn’t about to miss out on Steelhead Park on this crystal blue summer day, a dream come true!

Steelhead Park in Houston is a piece of paradise! Come on, let’s go sniffing around. The sniffing is fantastic here!
Steelhead Park is supposed to be in honor of steelhead fishing, which Houston is famous for, but for me, it’s all about the flowers.
Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia
Kind of bright out with the smoke gone.
Why, it’s a Dingo god! It’s OK, though, if you just keep worshiping me, SPHP!
There’s the steelhead pond, over there.
Hey, SPHP! Here’s our big chance! Not a bear in sight. I’ll go nab us a steelhead from the pond.
Too late! Not a single one left! Wonder if the city of Houston knows all their steelheads are gone? Either bears got ’em or people bought ’em. The pond is full of coins.
Sniffs like peppermint, I bet!

Steelhead Park was a lovely break from the road.  Lupe had a fun time sniffing among the brilliant flowers.  Adventure was calling, though.

Time to leave already?

Lupe and SPHP left Steelhead Park at 9:45 AM.  Less than 2 hours later, the Carolina Dog was standing on Babine Lake Road E of Smithers with her next big adventure in sight.

Mount Astlais (L) & The Big Onion (R), Babine Mountains, British Columbia 8-8-18

Links:

Next Adventure                  Prior Adventure

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park (7-31-13)

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

Lupe stood out on the flat, cracked mud of a small clearing.  Bright green shoots were poking up around the edges.  Bushes or stunted deep green conifers surrounded most of the area.  The Carolina Dog gazed up at SPHP with a puzzled expression.  A fabulous morning in the Canadian Rockies!  Everything had been going great.  What was the holdup?

Lupe wasn’t the only one puzzled.  The path simply ended here.  No sign of any trail.  SPHP had been certain there would be one.  A year ago, on the way back from Bow Glacier Falls, a hiker had told SPHP there was a side trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.) from this area.  The hiker had said the trail left the Bow Glacier Falls Trail from the forested ridge providing the first close up view of the falls.  A search of that ridge had revealed nothing.  Lupe had gone on, giving up on the idea, but SPHP had vowed she would return some day better prepared.

So here she was!  Back again, a year later.  Supposedly better prepared, but apparently not well enough.  As SPHP studied the topo map with the GPS track on it, a sickening realization sunk in.  Overly confident, SPHP hadn’t printed out enough of the surrounding territory to be able to tell exactly where Lupe was supposed to leave the Bow Glacier Falls trail.  The falls weren’t shown.

Should have paid more attention to the terrain to the W on the way up.  Most of it was out of sight now.  Heh.  It didn’t seem right.  SPHP hated to say it, much less do it.  Probably a complete waste of valuable time, but the possibility needed to be checked out.

Guess we better go back, Looper!  Don’t think we did, but we might have already missed the turn to Mount Jimmy Simpson.  Let’s go back down for a quick reconnaissance.  We can come back up and search around some more, if we don’t see anything promising below the stairs.

Made you wonder.  Was this just the first big fiasco of many more to come?  On August 4th, two days ago, Lupe had finally left home to start this grandest of all her Summer of 2018 Dingo Vacations.  Six solid weeks of epic adventures ahead!  Well, maybe.  The plan was ultimately to take the new all season road to Tuktoyaktuk.  The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was going all the way to the Arctic Ocean!  Yet, even though this Dingo Vacation had launched 4 days late, SPHP hadn’t managed to get Lupe on the road until afternoon.

Even then, SPHP had forgotten something.  Coats!  No joke.  That was the sad state of preparation for this incredible journey.  Loopster had been forced to return home so SPHP could retrieve coats.  Seemed like a detail that shouldn’t have managed to slip by on a long anticipated trip to the Arctic.  Lupe had finally hit the road for good at 2:09 PM (8-4-18, 86°F).

Since then, at least until now, things had gone well.  The G6 had purred W on I-90 through Wyoming.  By sundown on the 4th, Lupe was beyond Billings only a few miles S of Lavina, Montana.  The next morning she’d enjoyed a scenic drive up the Musselshell River valley, revisited King’s Hill (8,008 ft.) in the Little Belt Mountains, and stopped by for a drink out of Issac Walton Spring at Al Buck Memorial Park.

Oh, are you coming with? Glad to hear it! Hope you remembered your coat! We’re going all the way to the Arctic Ocean. Tuktoyaktuk or bust! Lupe at a quick stop along I-90 E of the Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 8-4-18
Sundown from Hwy 3 S of Lavina, Montana 8-4-18
Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) from King’s Hill in the Little Belt Mountains, MT 8-5-18. Photo looks W.
King’s Hill survey benchmark.
Exploring a new off-road route down the W side of King’s Hill. Photo looks SW.
Cooling off in Issac Walton Spring at Al Buck Memorial Park along Hwy 89 N of the Little Belt Mountains, Montana.
Belt Creek across Hwy 89 from Al Buck Memorial Park. Photo looks SSW.

By mid-afternoon on the 5th, Lupe had breezed through customs into Canada.  She made it to Banff in the Canadian Rockies in time for her traditional evening Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue.  And as light faded from the sky, she’d strolled the path along the Bow River clear down to Bow River Falls and back.

Only 1.5 days into our Dingo Vacation, and here we are at Banff in the fabulous Canadian Rockies along the Bow River. That’s Cascade Mountain (9,836) (Center) in the background! Photo looks N.
Banff Avenue! This way to the Pretty Puppy Parade! It’s a tradition, you know. Photo looks N.
At the Louis Trono Gazebo in Banff.
Maybe there’s going to be a Mangy Moose Parade, too?
Bow River Falls near the end of the day in Banff, 8-5-18

This morning had started out well, too.  Up at dawn, Lupe and SPHP had been treated to the super scenic drive W from Banff on Hwy 1, then N along Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 all the way to breakfast at the picnic ground along the E shore of Bow Lake.  Along the N shore, the red roof of Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge had been in view.

Towering beyond both Bow Lake and the lodge was Lupe’s peakbagging goal for the day – Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.).  Oh, yeah!  The views were going to be stupendous from up there!

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from the picnic ground on the E shore of Bow Lake. Photo looks NW.

The trail, or route, or whatever it was to Mount Jimmy Simpson was an off-shoot from the trail to Bow Glacier Glacier Falls, and the trail to Bow Glacier Falls started from the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge.  That much was for absolute certain.  Lupe had been all the way to the falls twice before.  The trek to Bow Glacier Falls is one of the easiest, most scenic half-day hikes in the entire Canadian Rockies.

So as soon as breakfast was over, SPHP had driven over to the trailhead parking lot by the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge.  (8:27 AM, 47°F)  Of course, the first thing to do, even before setting off on the trail, was to check out the view of Bow Lake, Crowfoot Mountain (10,023 ft.), and the Crowfoot Glacier from the N shore.

Along the N shore of Bow Lake. Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) (far L), Crowfoot Glacier (L) and Crowfoot Mountain (R). Photo looks SSE.

Off to the SW, where she would soon be headed, Lupe could see the toe of the Bow Glacier and the upper half of Bow Glacier Falls.

From the shore of Bow Lake close to Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, Lupe already had a distant view of the toe of the Bow Glacier and upper portion of Bow Glacier Falls (L). Photo looks SW.
Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

A few people were out and about, but it was still relatively early.  The views from Bow Lake were wonderful, but this was only the beginning!  An incredible day full of amazing scenery was ahead.  The Bow Glacier Falls trail would be busy before long.  Still a chance to beat the rush, if the Carolina Dog got underway now!

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from the N shore of Bow Lake. The Bow Glacier Falls Trail heads off to the L (W) along the shoreline. Photo looks NW.

From Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, the Bow Glacier Falls trail heads W along the N shore of Bow Lake.  Loopster had been this way before, but it was still astonishing how beautiful Bow Lake was!  Crowfoot Mountain soared dramatically from the opposite shore.  As Lupe got farther along the lake, she could see more of the wilderness peaks to the SW.

Bow Lake was an astonishingly beautiful blue! Crowfoot Mountain on the L. The spire seen far beyond Lupe at Center is St. Nicholas Peak (9,639 ft.). Photo looks SW.
Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) (L), St. Nicholas Peak (L of Center), Polaris Peak (8,694 ft.) (Center R). Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls on the R. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Immediately beyond Bow Lake, the trail went SSW along the edge of a delta built up by the Bow River.  Looking back to the NE, Lupe could see Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.), which she had climbed in July, 2014.

Cirque Peak (Center) from the delta created by the Bow River where it enters Bow Lake. Photo looks NE.

For short stretches, the trail was forced a little up into the forest on the steep slope W of the closest channel of the Bow River, but most of the way Lupe was crossing an exposed floodplain covered with smallish rounded stones.  The river was low this time of year.

At one point, the Bow Glacier Falls Trail left the floodplain to climb over a little bump of a ridge before returning to the low ground.  A higher forested ridge was now ahead past another long stretch of floodplain.  At the far SSW end, a steep set of stairs started up this larger ridge.

The Bow Glacier Falls Trail follows the Bow River upstream. Photo looks SSW.
End of the super easy part! The stairs (Center) leading up the ridge are just ahead. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe started up the stairs.  To the L (SE), the Bow River gushed through a deep, narrow gorge.  When the stairs ended, the trail continued a short, steep climb to the top of the ridge.  Upon reaching the ridgeline, Lupe could see a tributary coming in from the S that joined the Bow River right before it entered the gorge.

Snow-clad Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) was in view at the far end of the scenic canyon that this tributary came from.

This is one of my favorite spots along the Bow Glacier Falls Trail! That snowy peak at the far end of the canyon is Mount Olive. Photo looks S.

From this same point, Bow Glacier Falls was in sight again off to the SW.  It wasn’t that much farther away now.

There’s Bow Glacier Falls (Center) again! We’re getting close! Photo looks SW.

As Lupe knew from experience, the trail went on all the way to the falls.  A most worthwhile trek, but that wasn’t the plan today.  Loop was now on the same forested ridge she had explored a year ago looking for the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson.  Back then, none of the little side trails in the forest had panned out.  Her chance to conduct a more thorough search of this whole region had finally arrived.

Just ahead, the Bow Glacier Falls Trail dipped into a low area next to a rocky ridge.  The trail skirted this ridge to the S before continuing on to the falls.  Before that, though, a side path headed off to the R (NW) into the gap between the forested and rocky ridges.  Of course!  That must be it!  SPHP led Lupe into the opening.  Two minutes later, the path ended.

Ended at a small, flat clearing of cracked mud where green shoots sprouted up.

Down?  That’s crazy!  Why would we go down, SPHP?  We just got here!  Only 2 seconds ago you were convinced the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was right around here, or only a little farther up closer to the falls.  Why don’t we go that way?

We will Loop, but first let’s eliminate the possibility that we’ve already missed the turn.  Might be harder to find this trail to Jimmy Simpson than I thought.  Keep in mind that last year on the way back from the falls to this point, I’d already spoken to the hiker that told us about it.  We looked for the trail to Jimmy Simpson up there, and we didn’t see it, remember?

Yes, but the trail has got to be partway up that mountain to the W, doesn’t it?  Which is higher, not lower!  Let’s just go over to the mountain, and start climbing.  We’ll find the way!  I’ll sniff it out!

Yes, it’s up there somewhere, but that mountainside is a huge, steep area.  Maybe you can run around easily enough on it, but I can’t.  You know how slow I am!  A lot of that territory might be completely impassable to me due to the jungle lower down, and cliffs higher up.  We should at least scout out what looks like the best approach from down here in case we can’t find the trail.

Can’t find it!  We’ll come across it soon enough.  Your magic map shows the route, doesn’t it?  Why aren’t we following it to begin with?  What does it say?  How about we just follow the map instead of wasting time going back to where we’ve already been.

The map says I should have printed out more map.  It shows a GPS track, but I can’t tell exactly where until it’s way, way up there.  So we need to find the trail down here, or at least figure out what looks like the best chance of success before doing anything drastic.

A year to prepare, and you brought half a map?  Oh, silly me!  That’s right!  I’m with someone who doesn’t think to bring a coat to the Arctic.  OK, whatever you say, SPHP.  Seems ridiculous, but if it makes you happy, let’s go back down and see whatever we should have been looking at on the way here.

Shouldn’t take long, Loop.  Promise!

Lupe hadn’t had much of a lead on the morning crowd about to swarm up to Bow Glacier Falls.  While she headed back down the forested ridge to the stairway, groups of hikers were coming up.  SPHP chatted briefly with anyone who seemed inclined to stop for a moment.  Any chance they happened to know where the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was?

It was a total, desperate, long shot, and SPHP knew it.  Probably wasn’t one person in a hundred, maybe a thousand, who had any intention of going up Mount Jimmy Simpson.  Everyone was heading to Bow Glacier Falls, the splendid, easy to reach attraction not that far away.

Naturally, no one had a clue.  Lupe was almost to the bottom of the stairs when one couple that was particularly friendly offered to compare the GPS route on SPHP’s paper map with the topo map on their phone.  The verdict was inconclusive, but it looked like the GPS route left the trail somewhat farther up toward the falls, not down here.

A fool’s errand, but I guess we gotta do this! Still mighty pretty along in here, even if we aren’t getting anywhere. Lupe on her way back down the stairs. Photo looks NNE.

SPHP thanked the helpful couple, and they went on.

No sense going any farther.  What could be seen so far didn’t look right.  Too much dense forest to the W for too far up.  Not much of a chance the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was actually down here.  Who knew for sure, though?  Couldn’t be ruled out entirely, but this didn’t jive with what the hiker had said a year ago, nor what the friendly couple’s phone indicated, nor SPHP’s impression held for many months now based on what could be remembered of the complete map.

Satisfied, SPHP?

Yeah, I think so.

Back up then?

Uh, huh.  Onward, sweet puppy!

When Loop got back to the top of the forested ridge where she could see Bow Glacier Falls again, the friendly couple wasn’t far away.  They were now down in the dip between the ridges chatting with another group of hikers.  They had the trail blocked.  After the conversation broke up, and the other hikers were already underway, Lupe and SPHP went over to talk to the couple again.

They had news!  Guess where that group of 5 hikers that had just left them was heading?  Yes, that’s right – Mount Jimmy Simpson!  A quick, sincere thank you, and Lupe was off!

 After them, SPHP!  Don’t let them get away!

Luck of the Dingo!  That’s what it was!  The 5 hikers stayed on the main trail to Bow Glacier Falls much farther than SPHP expected.  They were halfway to the falls before they left the trail angling WSW up a rock strewn slope toward a big forested ramp.

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from just past the rocky ridge (R). Photo looks NNW.
Hurry, SPHP! We can’t lose them! Off-trail now, the 5 hikers head for a big forested ramp. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP wasn’t fast enough to gain on the hikers.  They reached the base of the ramp and disappeared into the forest.  No choice, but to try to keep after them.

Perfectly obvious now why the Carolina Dog hadn’t seen where the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson left the Bow Glacier Falls Trail a year ago.  No such discernible trail existed.  This was simply an unmarked route up the stony slope.  And it didn’t start from anywhere near that lower forested ridge.

Look how close we are to Bow Glacier Falls! Photo looks SSW.

The Luck of the Dingo held.  When SPHP reached the forest at the base of the ramp, Lupe discovered that the 5 hikers hadn’t gone much farther.  They’d paused for a break in a grassy spot among huge boulders.  SPHP stopped to catch breath close enough to hear them talking.

Bow Glacier Falls from close to the first rest stop at the base of the ramp. Photo looks S.

The hikers were already about rested up.  Within minutes they pressed on heading NNE up the ramp.  SPHP tried to follow, but immediately fell behind.  A scramble up a short rocky slope led to a grassier, wider part of the ramp.  Lupe did find a faint trail along in here.

The grassy part of the ramp was moderately steep, but not too hard.  It wasn’t long, though, before an obvious scar appeared on the really steep slope on the L (W).  That scar was a badly eroded remnant of a trail.  The hikers were still in sight, heading straight up this slope toward a stunted forest at the base of a cliff.

Lupe could have kept up with those hikers so easily!  Ever faithful, she instead hung back with SPHP, who kept having to pause to catch breath, and seemed doomed to lose them.  Even while gasping for air, it was amazing how spectacular the views were already becoming!

Loop about to leave the first big ramp to follow the hikers up to the patch of forest (Center) at the base of the cliffs. Photo looks WNW.
The first big ramp (Lower L) is down by the forest. Vulture Peak (9,701 ft.) (L), Mount Olive (R of Center) and Polaris Peak (R above the falls). Photo looks S.

The hikers disappeared from sight again well before SPHP reached the base of the cliff.  Lupe continued steeply higher, following a bit of a trail N right alongside the cliff wall.  To SPHP’s relief, the hikers had paused a second time.  Lupe and SPHP caught up.  The Carolina Dog’s tour guides left again almost immediately, still heading N along walls of rock.

SPHP took another breather.  Lupe now had a great view of Bow Lake.

Bow Lake with Cirque Peak (Center) beyond it. Photo looks NE.

Then it was off again, chasing after those 5 hikers!  Lupe traversed many narrow ledges.  Every now and then, there were nearly vertical short climbs higher.  Some places there were stunted conifers, other places were out in the dizzying, airy open.  Often there was a visible trail, but not always.  Sometimes the “trail” was braided, offering more than one possible route.

For a while, SPHP did a better job of staying caught up.  Eventually, though, the hikers began to pull away.  More and more often, they were lost from view.  Each time the Carolina Dog rounded a minor corner, she saw them again, but farther and farther away.

The views became ever more impressive.  SPHP often clung to the rock walls next to the narrow ledges.  Finally, two errors were committed – steep climbs that led to dead ends.  Careful retreats consumed precious minutes.  Lupe continued on, but the hikers were gone.

Cirque Peak (L) and Dolomite Peak (9,383 ft.) (the spiky one on the R) beyond Bow Lake. Crowfoot Mountain (R) in the foreground. Photo looks ENE.
Looking back again. Crowfoot Mountain (L), Vulture Peak (Center), Mount Olive (R), Polaris Peak (far R). Photo looks S.
Coming up the narrow ledges. Photo looks SSW.

Happily, before going too much farther, the ledges finally broadened out.  The terrain became far less steep and nerve-wracking.  Lupe ought to be able to get to Mount Jimmy Simpson on her own now!

Oh, happy day! The ledges are widening out and there’s Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) dead ahead! Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP were making much faster progress again.  A question soon arose as to whether or not to climb up onto a considerably higher big ramp to the W.  A little movement caught the eye.  Two of the hikers were in view!  Far away, but on the same ramp Lupe was on.  No need to go higher.

This was easy terrain, almost level.  Lupe was gaining on them now!  Soon all 5 were in sight climbing a slope leading to another wide ramp.

Catching up! The route goes up the slope directly beyond Lupe only far enough to be able to turn R (N) along the top of the closest rock wall on the R. The 5 hikers are mere specks just to the L of the slope beyond Loop. Photo looks NW.

Looper followed them.  As she reached the top of this final ramp, all 5 hikers were once again in view, but still with a big lead.  One by one, they disappeared over a bouldery ridge at the far end of the ramp.

Puppy, ho!  Onward!

Doing great! The 5 hikers are still in sight as specks at the very center of this photo. They’ll soon disappear over the gray ridge. Clearly, the goal now is to get to the upper saddle (Center). Photo looks NW.

Lupe crested the bouldery ridge 7 minutes later.  A down climb amid huge boulders was directly ahead.  At the bottom, a long snowfield led NW most of the way up a giant cirque.  The 5 hikers were just now reaching the snow, about to start up again.

As soon as SPHP managed to get down there, Lupe was in pursuit.

Lupe at the base of the snowfield in the giant cirque. Her tour guides are leading the way higher. Photo looks NW.

The huge cirque became progressively steeper.  Beyond the upper limit of the snowfield, it was worse yet.  Most of the terrain consisted of small to medium-sized scree.  The loose scree was increasingly unstable.  A partially exposed band of bedrock formed the critical juncture.  Get above that upper rim, and the American Dingo would have it made!

This was not a trivial task.  Lupe had almost caught up to the 5 hikers.  Their group consisted of 3 women and 2 men, all young and strong, but even they were having to be careful and take their time.  SPHP favored going almost straight up the middle of the cirque, but Lupe’s guides headed toward the firmer exposed rock formations on the R (N).  Stones came clattering down, but both men and one of the women made it up without too much trouble.

The other 2 women were having a slower time of it.  Lupe and SPHP caught up to them, and even got ahead for a little way.  It was the first real opportunity for interaction, and sort of broke the ice a bit.  After some anxious moments clinging to whatever nub of firm rock presented itself as scree showered down the treacherous slope, everyone made it safely past the dicey part.

The worst was over!  Yet another steep slope led directly to the big upper saddle, but this was nothing compared to what Loopster had just been through.  The unseen summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson was somewhere to the N, still 900 feet higher, but nothing but a long, steady trudge up a barren, obstacle-free slope remained.  Lupe was in a world of rock, sky, and fabulous views of snow-clad peaks, ice fields and glaciers.

Looking back from above the upper rim of the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

It would have been easy to go straight on up to the huge upper saddle, but Lupe’s guides took a more efficient route, bypassing it more directly to the N.  SPHP couldn’t keep up, and fell behind again.  All 5 hikers were pulling away.  Hardly mattered now, anyway.  Lupe was going to make it!

Looking back toward the upper saddle. Lupe never actually went to it, coming up from the L (SE). Photo looks W.
The summit (R) comes into view. Photo looks NNE.
The final stretch. Photo looks N.

Lupe reached the summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.) 10 or 15 minutes after the 5 hikers.  They were all hanging out near the summit cairn, or over by the tremendous view of Bow Lake.  SPHP made certain to praise Looper for making it all the way up this mighty peak, shaking her paw and congratulating her with great enthusiasm.

At the summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson. Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) with snow on the L. Mistaya River valley (R). A smidgen of Peyto Lake is in view. Photo looks NW.

Everyone else seemed pleased by that, and offered the Carolina Dog praise, too.  Introductions were made, and SPHP got to chatting with Lupe’s benefactors.  All 5 were from Calgary.  Apparently they were in the habit of exploring the Canadian Rockies together fairly frequently, although whether they were were all members of some sort of alpine club, or simply good friends, was never clear.

After pleasantries were exchanged, Lupe and SPHP devoted attention to the fabulous views good fortune had made it possible to enjoy.

Cauldron Lake (L), Mistaya Mountain (10,154 ft.) (Center), and the Delta Glacier (R). Photo looks NW.
Peyto Glacier. Photo looks SW.
Peyto Peak (9,744 ft.) (L), Cauldron Lake (Center) and Mistaya Mountain (R). Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe on Mount Jimmy Simpson. Patterson Peak on the L. Photo looks NNW.
Bow Lake from Mount Jimmy Simpson summit. Mount Hector (11,135 ft.) (R) in the distance. Photo looks SE.
Peyto Glacier. Photo looks WSW with help from the telephoto lens.
The closest peaks beyond Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 are Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.) (L) and Dolomite Peak (9,383 ft.) (jagged on the R). Photo looks E.
Mistaya River valley. Photo looks NNW.
Peyto Peak (L), Cauldron Lake (Center), Mistaya Mountain (Center), and the Delta Glacier (R) again. Photo looks WNW.

For a while, Lupe relaxed near the summit cairn.

Taking it easy on Mount Jimmy Simpson. Photo looks ESE.
Mount Hector on the R. Mighty thoughtful of the Canadians to provide such a colorful array of backpacks! Photo looks SE.
Looking back down at the upper saddle. Mount Thompson (10,135 ft.) (Center). The Bow Glacier and lake above Bow Glacier Falls are on the L. Peyto Glacier on the R. Photo looks SW.
Mount Balfour (10,774 ft.) (far L), Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) (L), St. Nicholas Peak (9,639 ft.) (dark prong at Center), Mount Gordon (10,371 ft.) (R). Bow Glacier also on the R. Bow Glacier Falls (Lower L). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Bow Lake from Mount Jimmy Simpson. Photo looks SE.

Lupe got to spend over 40 minutes up on Mount Jimmy Simpson.  She rested up, saw incredible sights, and made 5 new friends.  Before departing, her Canadian benefactors were all quite willing to pose with the American Dingo.

On Mount Jimmy Simpson with (L to R): Cayla, Fletcher, Betty, Sarah & Jon.

It was sad to see them go.  Sad, because her new friends were all leaving her behind.  And sad, because it meant Lupe was going to have to leave the splendor of Mount Jimmy Simpson, too.  SPHP thought it best to try to stay close to the Canadians during the tricky route along the narrow ledges.

Lupe’s new friends start back down toward the upper saddle. Photo looks SW.
The Canadians approach the upper lip of the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

SPHP is even slower going down steep stuff than going up.  So the return trip was similar to Lupe’s ascent.  SPHP always trying not to fall too far behind.  Lupe caught up to the Canadians once as they were deciding which way to descend into the giant cirque, and again when they took a short break on the wide ramps.

Heading down the wide ramps below the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

After that, though, the Canadians were simply faster.  They came into view now and then, but always farther ahead than before.  They took a lower descent path this time avoiding some of the more treacherous, narrowest ledges.  SPHP wound up too low, stuck thrashing around in the forest for a little way.

From the top of the morning’s first steep ascent where the scar of a trail was, Lupe saw the Canadians for the last time.  They were already down on the first big ramp, still moving fast.

The way back was well known from here.  Lupe and SPHP slowed down.  May as well enjoy this beautiful evening in the Canadian Rockies.  Lupe’s Calgary guides were gone.  The crowds who had come to see Bow Glacier Falls were long gone, too.  Solitude, splendid scenery on an enormous scale, and an easy trek back to Bow Lake to look forward to.

Nearing Bow Glacier Falls on the way down the first ramp. Photo looks SSW.
Out on the rocky slope looking back up at Mount Jimmy Simpson and the first big ramp. Photo looks N.
Approaching the forested ridge on the way back to the stairs and Bow Lake. Cirque Peak (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

What a glorious day Mount Jimmy Simpson had been!  By all rights, it should have been a complete flop.  Not likely Lupe and SPHP would ever have found the way up Mount Jimmy Simpson, if those 5 Canadians from Calgary hadn’t come along right when they did.

Luck of the Dingo!  If it kept holding like it did today, the next 6 weeks were going to be fantastic!

Cayla, Fletcher, Betty, Sarah, Jon & Lupe on Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 8-6-18

Links:

Next Adventure

Bow Lake & the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-25-13)

Cirque Peak, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-14)

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Part 2 of Day 3, plus Day 4 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska

(Day 3, 8-2-17, noon)  My how things had changed!  When Lupe and SPHP got back to the Bow Glacier Falls trailhead near Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge on beautiful Bow Lake shortly before noon, the parking lot, which had been nearly vacant when the American Dingo arrived early this morning, was jam packed with vehicles.  A long line was waiting to get in, and another trying to get out.

After some delay, the G6 made it out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  Only a few miles farther N at Bow Summit, SPHP made the mistake of taking the turn for Peyto Lake.  The situation was the same here.  No place to park, vehicles circling endlessly, and throngs of tourists everywhere.

Another delay getting back onto Hwy 93 ensued, but eventually Lupe was headed N again.  It was the height of the summer tourist season.  After an overcast late autumn feel to the start of the day back in Banff this morning, the sky was bright blue and temperatures were soaring.  As a result, the magnificent Canadian Rockies were completely overrun.

Loopster, you were dang lucky to have Bow Glacier Falls all to yourself this morning!

The early Dingo gets the … uh, squirrel, you know, SPHP!

Apparently, that was absolutely the case.  The mid-day drive N through Banff and Jasper National Parks was stunning as always, but at all the other short day hikes Lupe might have done, the story was the same.  No room to park at Parker Ridge, no room at Wilcox Pass, not even a single available spot at the giant paved parking lot at the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.

Heading N through the Canadian Rockies on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

SPHP did manage to sneak the G6 into a couple of pullouts on the way N.  Lupe got brief looks at splendid views before having to hit the road again to let someone else have a turn.

Looper at a pullout with a view across the Sunwapta River of the Stutfield Glacier, part of the Columbia Icefield. Photo looks SW.

Despite the crowds, SPHP thought Lupe had an ace in the hole.  She would stop at her favorite secret picnic ground on the Athabasca river 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls.  Due to a total lack of signage, only a few locals ever seemed to realize it was there.  Everyone else roared right on by the inconspicuous turn.

When Lupe got there, SPHP was aghast.  New signage!  The formerly secret picnic ground wasn’t completely overrun, but it was no longer the Carolina Dog’s private preserve, either.  Lupe and SPHP stopped long enough to go over to the river to take a look at the familiar lovely views, but the solitude which had been so exquisite here even on super touristy days was gone.

At the Athabasca River near what used to be a very private picnic ground due to a lack of signage. Unfortunately, new signs were up and the solitude Lupe used to enjoy here on previous years had vanished. Photo looks NW.
Looking upstream.

Since the Canadian Rockies were so busy on what was rapidly becoming a hot summer afternoon, SPHP decided Lupe ought to just keep going.  After a quick stop for fuel and supplies in Jasper, Lupe enjoyed an air-conditioned ride W on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.

Upon reaching the British Columbia border, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.  When SPHP spotted the Overlander Falls trailhead next to the highway, no one was there.  Perfect!  SPHP pulled into the nearly empty parking lot.

Lupe had stopped at Overlander Falls on her 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska, too, so she knew what to expect.  The main trail down to the falls is a nice, shady 10 minute stroll through the forest.

On the main trail to Overlander Falls, only a 10 minute, mostly downhill stroll away.

Last year, Lupe had visited Overlander Falls on a cloudy, drippy day.  The falls had been impressive then, but in the sunshine this afternoon Overlander Falls was absolutely gorgeous!  The Fraser River was an amazing pale blue color mixed with a clean, foamy white.

Overlander Falls was absolutely gorgeous on this sunny afternoon! Only 30 ft. high, Overlander Falls is one of only 2 significant waterfalls on the Fraser River, the other being Rearguard Falls farther downstream. The trailhead is located on the S side of Yellowhead Hwy 16 about 2 km E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters and visitor center.

Lupe was glad to see Overlander Falls again!  The waterfall put out a cool, misty spray, which felt great on a hot afternoon.  The torrent pouring over the falls produced a soothing continuous roar.

Lupe was glad to see Overlander Falls again! The falls produced a cool, misty spray which felt great on a hot afternoon.
Loop by the downstream end of the big, beautiful swirling pool of water below the falls.

Lupe had lovely Overlander Falls all to herself, but only for 10 minutes or so.  Soon people were coming.  Best to let them enjoy some privacy here, too.  The Carolina Dog started back up the trail to the parking lot.

Enjoying a few minutes of cool, misty solitude down by Overlander Falls.

Not far from Overlander Falls, a longer side trail branches off the main trail and follows the Fraser River downstream for 2 km.  The side trail stays well above the Fraser River, which isn’t even in view a good deal of the time.  It ends at a road 0.5 km from Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters and visitor center.

Lupe had taken the side trail last year, but had a painful experience when she got too excited about a squirrel.  A dewclaw caught on a root or branch while she was leaping about.  The dewclaw had broken off, which hadn’t been much fun at all.  Instead of taking the side trail, this time around Lupe let SPHP drive her to the Mount Robson Provincial Park visitor center.

Mount Robson (12,989 ft.) is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies.  In 2013, Lupe had taken the Berg Lake trail all the way up to Berg Lake, where she’d had a grand view of Mount Robson and the Berg and Mist Glaciers after traveling through the Valley of a Thousand Falls.  That had been a truly glorious adventure, but a long, long day.

Last year, Mount Robson had been mostly hidden in clouds when Lupe dropped by the visitor center.  Today the mountain soared in sunshine, highlighted against a brilliant blue sky.  The sight was enough to make the American Dingo want to take the Berg Lake trail again.

Lupe drops by the Mount Robson Provincial Park visitor center to see Mount Robson (L), the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies.
Lupe would have been willing to stay and take the Berg Lake trail all the way around to the other side of Mount Robson (23 km one way!). SPHP had to admit that would have been a tremendously fun thing to do, but Loop had other great adventures in store for her on this year’s grand Dingo Vacation!
Mount Robson with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

From the visitor center, it was only eight miles to Lupe’s next stop at Rearguard Falls.  On the way, the temperature hit a sweltering 89°F!

Like at Overlander Falls, the Rearguard Falls trailhead was right along Yellowhead Hwy 16.  A 10 minute walk down a good trail brought Lupe to an extensive boardwalk system with metal railings.

Lupe on the boardwalk platform closest to Rearguard Falls. Rearguard Falls wasn’t as high as Overlander Falls, but being downstream, contained an even more tremendous flow.

Rearguard Falls, though not as high as Overlander Falls roughly 10 miles upstream, has great significance as the only other waterfall on the 854 mile long Fraser River.  Rearguard Falls is high enough and powerful enough to be an effective barrier against nearly all migrating salmon.  While a few salmon may be strong enough or lucky enough to make it over Rearguard Falls, none make it past Overlander Falls.

Few migrating salmon can make it past Rearguard Falls. Even those that do are ultimately blocked only 10 miles upstream by Overlander Falls.

Rearguard Falls was the last stop Lupe would make for a while, so she lingered as long as she could by the beautiful waterfall until SPHP said it was time to be moving on again.

Oh, mighty interesting about the salmon getting stuck here, SPHP! Sounds pretty good! Think we can catch one? I like salmon!
Don’t think so Looper. Not seeing any salmon here today. Maybe it’s the wrong time of year? This is a provincial park, anyway. I’m pretty sure they wouldn’t be too happy with us feasting on the salmon here.
The beautiful Fraser River immediately downstream of Rearguard Falls.

Lupe and SPHP went on, continuing W on Yellowhead Hwy 16.  Soon after leaving Rearguard Falls, Hwy 5 branched off going S to Kamloops.  Nearly all the traffic went that way.  Lupe stayed on Hwy 16 following the Fraser River valley toward Prince George.

The Carolina Dog barked at cows and horses as she cruised by occasional green fields scattered among the forest.  The Fraser River was seldom in view.  The valley was miles wide, and bordered by high mountains on both sides.  The mountains to the NE were closest.  They weren’t as spectacular as Mount Robson, but were still very scenic.

Gradually the fields with their cows and horses disappeared.  Forests lined the highway.  Lupe calmed down and relaxed.  The late afternoon heat faded to a comfortable level.  The busy crowds had vanished.  SPHP owned the road, driving with the windows partially down to let fresh air swirl through.  As mile after gorgeous mile went by, the drive took on a peaceful, dream-like quality.  The G6 hummed steadily NW.

It was evening, when a sign came into view.  It was a big new sign where a year ago there had only been a small one.  “Ancient Forest”.  Well, why not?  A huge, wide, short gravel road led up a hillside to an enormous gravel parking lot.  Everything was new.  The immediate area had been stripped of trees.  At one end of the parking lot were two picnic tables and a couple of outhouses.  That was it for facilities.

Lupe arrives at the Ancient Forest along Yellowhead Hwy 16, about 70 miles SE of Prince George, British Columbia.

A guy with a bicycle was using one of the picnic tables.  Only one pickup truck was parked in the absurdly gigantic parking lot.  No one else was in sight.  Lupe and SPHP got out for a look around.

A few signs were posted near a registry at the start of a boardwalk trail leading into the forest.  The signs said this area was a rare ancient inland rainforest.  Huge western redcedars, many over 1,000 years old, and some over 2,000 years old are the dominant tree.  A map showed a trail system with two loops and a couple of spurs.

One of the signs at the registration station near the start of the loop trails leading into the Ancient Forest.

Several vehicles came and went while SPHP read the signs.  The occupants were only interested in using the outhouses.  No one else came to explore a trail, or even glance at what the Ancient Forest was all about.

The Ancient Forest seemed quite different from Lupe’s usual adventures, but she was here now, and Loopster was certainly ready for action.  SPHP registered for her, and the American Dingo set out on the handi-cap accessible boardwalk leading into the rainforest.  (7:43 PM, 70°F)

Lupe enters the Ancient Forest of western redcedars on the handi-cap accessible boardwalk.

The ancient western redcedars were enormous!  The redcedars stood straight and tall with few branches until high above the ground.  Most branches seemed pathetically small for the size of the trees.  Clumps of moss clung to the tree trunks.  The forest floor was covered with ferns, plants with huge leaves, and more moss.

Moss clung to the trunks of the ancient western redcedars. These trees were enormous – straight and tall, with few branches until high above the ground.

The level handi-cap accessible “universal” boardwalk was on supports keeping it several feet above the forest floor, and had railings on both sides.  Lupe followed it all the way to a promised viewpoint at its far end, a distance of several hundred meters.  The “viewpoint” turned out to be just another spot in the forest like any other, except that a foot trail left the boardwalk and continued on from here.

The foot trail was the E end of a much longer trail that crosses a small creek nearby before gaining more than 3,800 feet (1,169 m) of elevation on its way up to a high point in the subalpine on Driscoll Ridge.  The 8.1 mile (15.5 km) long Driscoll Ridge trail ultimately loops back down to Yellowhead Hwy 16 at a point 3 miles (5 km) W of the Ancient Forest trailhead.

Well, Lupe certainly didn’t have time to do all that this evening, so she turned around and went back to where the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop of the Ancient Forest trail system left the handi-cap accessible trail.

On the handicap-accessible “universal” trail heading back to where the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop leaves it.

Once off the handicap-accessible trail, Lupe headed for Tree Beard.  The loop trail was still raised boardwalk, but it wasn’t nearly as high above the forest floor as on the universal trail, and now there were low steps and no railings.  Most of the boardwalk was covered with a shingle-like material for better traction.  The trail gained elevation at a moderate pace as it went up the slope leading to Tree Beard.

Maps like this one were posted at several points along the Ancient Forest loop trails.

Tree Beard was a particularly large, ancient western redcedar, and still very much alive.  Nearly all its spindly little branches were way, way up above the ground.

Lupe next to Tree Beard, a particularly large, ancient western redcedar.
Gazing up Tree Beard’s enormous trunk.

Lupe’s next stop was the waterfall.  The waterfall was located at the end of a spur off the main loop trail.  This was the high point of the whole Ancient Forest trail system, some 343 feet (104 m) above the trailhead.

The pretty waterfall flowed down green moss-covered rocks, but was sort of small.  After seeing Overlander Falls and Rearguard Falls earlier in the day, the Carolina Dog wasn’t particularly impressed.  Of course, the waterfall might be more impressive at other times of year.  Perhaps this was the dry season?  For a rainforest, everything seemed very dry.

The pretty waterfall at the high point of the Ancient Forest trail system.

Lupe returned to the main Waterfall/Tree Beard loop and continued on through the prehistoric forest.

This Ancient Forest really is cool, don’t you think, Looper?  Seems like a place where you could meet a dinosaur!

A dinosaur!  In Canada?  Not too likely, SPHP.  Haven’t seen a single one since we got here.  In fact, I really can’t remember the last time I saw one anywhere.  Dinosaurs are pretty scarce these days.

True enough.  Maybe a bear, then.  You saw bears in Canada last year, remember?

Oh yeah!  A bear would be exciting!  Maybe we’ll see a bear?

Lupe keeping an eye out for bears, and maybe even dinosaurs! Who knew what might lurk in the Ancient Forest?

When Lupe reached the Gold-Dust Tree, she found the tree had taken the unusual step of posting a sign boasting about the view it had of a distant mountain named Mount Sir Alexander (10,745 ft.).  The sign said Mount Sir Alexander had been climbed only a few times, though the Gold-Dust Tree didn’t claim to have done it.

The sign posted by the Gold-Dust Tree about Mount Sir Alexander.

This was all quite interesting to a peakbagging Carolina Dog.  She was fortunate enough to be here on a clear day when she could actually see the real Mount Sir Alexander, too.  It was an impressive peak, glistening with glaciers just as the Gold-Dust Tree claimed.

Lupe was disappointed, though, to see that the mountain appeared well beyond SPHP’s peakbagging capabilities.  That being the case, she knew she wouldn’t ever get to climb Mount Sir Alexander herself, either.

Mount Sir Alexander was an impressive peak, but Lupe could see that SPHP would never make it up something like that. Sadly, that meant she would never get to climb it, either. Photo looks NE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Apparently, the sight of Mount Sir Alexander had gotten Lupe thinking.

You know what, SPHP?  This Ancient Forest would be a great place to come to on a cloudy wet day.  It wouldn’t be worth climbing any mountains on a day like that, because you wouldn’t see anything anyway, but the Ancient Forest would be fantastic!  All drippy, misty, foggy and spooky-like!  Makes me feel all scary and wild and ferocious just thinking about it!

Hah!  Great idea, Loopster!  Makes me wish it was all misty, drippy, and foggy right now!

I’d be the top predator, the most ferocious Dingo in the Ancient Forest!  I’d go roaming and prowling among these monstrous trees on the hunt, ripping apart and devouring everything and anything I came to.  Most fun ever!  You could come with, SPHP, and help out.  It’s always smart to hunt in packs, you know.

Maybe.  I dunno know, Loop, we might run into Big Claw!

Big Claw?  Who’s that?

Oh, don’t you remember fighting Big Paw on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state?  That was a rain forest, too.  Down there, they had Big Paw, and he almost got the best of you.  Up here, they probably have Big Claw, maybe a massive bear or something like that.  Perhaps a giant grizzly!  Big Paw was bad enough.  You might not survive an encounter with Big Claw!

Lupe glanced around the forest, ears pricked up, nose twitching.

Big Claw wouldn’t be here on a day like today, do you think, SPHP?

Not entirely certain about that, Loop.  I don’t see any ripe berries around, so probably not, but who knows?  Best to stay alert.  Don’t go wandering off.

Maybe we should get out of here before it gets dark, SPHP.  Let’s keep going and see what’s next.

What was next was the Radies Tree, another huge western redcedar.  The tree was named after Dave Radies, a graduate student at the University of Northern British Columbia, who had noticed in 2005 that trees in this area were marked for logging.  Mr. Radies alerted the public, which led to the preservation of the Ancient Forest.

Loop near the Radies Tree (R).

A few hundred feet (100 m) beyond the Radies Tree, Lupe came to a trail junction.  She could take a shortcut back to the G6 completing the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop, or explore the Big Tree loop.

The Big Tree loop was the smaller of the two loops.  It wouldn’t take much longer to check it out, too.  There was still plenty of light out, and exploring the lonely Ancient Forest was pretty fun.  Loop decided she’d like to see Big Tree.

Big Tree was a monster so large SPHP couldn’t even get a decent photo of it.  A short side trail went to a platform right at the base of the tree.  To get to the platform, Lupe had to pass beneath a huge tree that had fallen over.  That fallen tree was mighty cool, too.

Lupe on the short spur off the Big Tree loop leading to a platform at the base of Big Tree. Big Tree is just around the corner from here.

Having seen Big Tree, it was time to head back to the G6.  Most of the return trip was an easy, downhill stroll on the boardwalk.  Lupe never did see Big Claw, nor Medium Claw, Small Claw, or Tiny Claw, either for that matter.

Although forest was already getting gloomy, it was quite light out despite the late hour when Lupe and SPHP emerged from the Ancient Forest back at the huge, open parking lot (9:44 PM).  The guy with the bicycle was gone.  Only one other vehicle was around, a pickup with a camper which appeared intent on spending the night parked way down at the far end.  Good idea.  Lupe would spent the night here, too.

(Day 4, 8-3-17)  Early, very early.  The Big Dipper was so bright in the night sky, SPHP could see it without glasses, which was saying something.  Later, a single bright spot appeared near the horizon.  Must be Venus.  Dawn was coming.  Up at 5:48 AM, SPHP made use of one of the picnic tables, while Lupe sniffed around close by.  Soon she was on Yellowhead Hwy 16 again, heading W for Prince George.

Prince George was only 65 miles (104 km) from Ancient Forest, so it was still early when Lupe arrived.  SPHP fueled up the G6, then discovered that Save on Food didn’t even open until 8:00 AM, which seemed crazy.  It was such a long way to the next substantial town, however, it was best to wait.  Shortly after 8:00 AM, Lupe was on her way again, the G6 stocked with fresh provisions.

Loop and SPHP headed N out of Prince George on Hwy 97.  The Carolina Dog enjoyed lapping up newly acquired chocolate milk, as she watched the scenery go by.  Lupe had lots of nice breaks from the G6 yesterday, so this was going to be a travel day, spent mainly making tracks N.  Even so, there would be a few stops along the way.

Looking at maps, SPHP had gotten the idea that it might be fun to see the Parsnip Reach of Williston Lake.  This involved a 19 mile (30 km) side trip (one way) on Hwy 39 to Mackenzie, which according to SPHP’s wholly inadequate and deceptive maps appeared to be on the lake.  No doubt the lake wasn’t too far away, but despite driving through the entire length of Mackenzie, and several miles past it on a dusty gravel road, Williston Lake refused to appear.

Driving back through Mackenzie again, SPHP saw no signs indicating how one might obtain lake access.  Fiddlesticks!  However, there was one strange thing Lupe might have a look at in Mackenzie.  A gigantic yellow machine sat next to Hwy 39 right at the edge of town.  Lupe stopped by to see what it was.

The yellow monster turned out to be “The World’s Largest Tree Crusher“.  The electrically powered tree crusher had arrived at Kennedy Siding, wherever that was, in late 1964.  Plagued with problems, it saw use in 1965 clearing 2,590 acres of forest, but apparently little actual use for its intended purpose after that.  Now it was a tourist attraction.

Lupe visits “The World’s Largest Tree Crusher” in Mackenzie, British Columbia.

It’s a mighty odd tourist attraction, Loop.  How many people make travel plans to see a giant tree crusher, anyway?

You did.

I did not!  This is purely accidental.  We came here to see Williston Lake, and found this beastly behemoth instead.  No doubt it’s an engineering feat of sorts, although the sign says it had lots of problems, but it’s kind of a nightmarish thing, isn’t it?  Can you imagine this metal monster smashing down entire forests, leaving an indiscriminate wake of destruction in its path?

It does look terrifying.  I’m glad it’s dead!

The World’s Largest Tree Crusher was just plain scary to think about!

Without ever catching so much as a glimpse of Williston Lake, Lupe and SPHP returned to Hwy 97 and continued N.  Near Chetwynd, SPHP took Hwy 29, a shortcut to the Alaska Highway NW of Fort St. John.  Lupe stopped by Moberly Lake, which looked beautiful and remote where the highway first reached it.

Lupe at the E end of Moberly Lake where Hwy 29 first reaches it coming from Chetwynd. Photo looks W.

Lupe and SPHP took a short walk.  Moberly Lake was certainly beautiful, surrounded by low mountains.  Lupe could see only part of it from here, since it was miles long.  However, the lake was not as remote as it first appeared.  It turned out there were recreational facilities along the S shore, and lots of homes in the community of Moberly Lake along the N shore where Hwy 29 went.

Moberly Lake wasn’t as remote as it first appeared, but was beautiful nevertheless. Lupe discovered there were recreational facilities along the S shore. The community of Moberly Lake was strung out along the N shore where Hwy 29 went.

Beyond Moberly Lake, Hwy 29 eventually crossed a bridge over the Peace River, whereupon it turned NE following the Peace River valley downstream.  The valley was very pretty, bordered by forested ridges on both sides, and full of fields along the river bottom  After some distance, Hwy 29 climbed out of the valley to a high point where there was a rest area with a great view.

Lupe had a great view of the Peace River valley from a rest stop positioned at this high point along Hwy 29. Photo looks SW.
The Peace River with a bit of help from the telephoto lens.

The Peace River flows out of Williston Lake.  Information at the rest stop showed that Lupe would have been able to access the Peace Reach of Williston Lake, if she had left Hwy 29 at Hudson’s Hope taking Canyon Drive to the W.A.C Bennett Dam.  Oh well, too late now.  SPHP had no intention of backtracking that far.

Looking downstream from the rest stop. Photo looks ENE.

The nice Peace River sight-seeing break at the rest stop was the last big one Lupe got all day.  Hwy 29 ended at the Alaska Highway a few miles NW of Fort St. John.  SPHP drove into town to gas up the G6.  Then Lupe cruised N and W on the Alaska Highway the rest of the day with only a few brief stops along the way.

Dusk found Lupe W of Fort Nelson, stopped for the night at a pullout at a low spot along the Alaska Highway.  A creek could be heard nearby, but this must have been a swampy area.  Swarms of mosquitoes discouraged any lengthy ventures out of the G6.  The world turned dark.  After a bite to eat, SPHP pulled Lupe’s blankie over her, and it was off to adventures in Dingo dreamland.

Taking a brief break along the Alaska Highway somewhere between Fort St. John and Fort Nelson.
Big clouds sailed over the Alaska Highway on the way to Fort Nelson. Lupe eventually passed through rain showers, then saw a rainbow in Fort Nelson.

Related Links:

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

The Berg Lake Trail, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-30-13)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (8-2-17)

Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

August, yet Banff was quiet and cool.  Low clouds hid the mountains.  Only a few people were wandering about this early in the normally bustling tourist town.  Summer had vanished.  It felt a little like fall with winter on the way.  Lupe & SPHP left Banff heading W on Trans-Canada Hwy 1.  (5:44 AM, 52°F)

Not until Lupe was well N of Lake Louise on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 did the clouds begin to dissipate.  The sky was clear by the time she reached the picnic ground at Bow Lake.

Lupe by a small stream that flows into Bow Lake near the picnic ground along the E shore. Photo looks WNW.

After 2 days spent almost entirely on the road, Lupe needed to get out of the G6 and do something active for a while.  The Canadian Rockies are a perfect place for that!  One of the most beautiful short day hikes was right here at Bow Lake.  With the sun out now, the morning would warm up fast.  It was still early enough for Lupe to beat the hordes of tourists certain to appear before too long.

SPHP drove over to the N side of Bow Lake, parking the G6 at Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge (7:16 AM).  The big gravel parking lot at the trailhead for Bow Glacier Falls was practically empty, but would be overflowing soon enough on a day like this.  Before hitting the trail, Lupe went down to the N shore of Bow Lake.  Wisps of fog lingered over the smooth, still waters.  Lupe could see Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) and part of the Crowfoot Glacier across the lake.

Before hitting the trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Lupe went down to the N shore of Bow Lake near Num-Ti-Jah Lodge. She could see Bow Peak (L) and part of the Crowfoot Glacier (R) beyond the far shore. Photo looks SE.

Bow Glacier Falls, Lupe’s ultimate destination, was already in view to the SW.  From a distance like this, Lupe could even see part of the Bow Glacier, an arm of the massive Wapta Icefield, above the falls.

From the shore of Bow Lake near the Num-Ti-Jah lodge, Lupe could already see Bow Glacier Falls (Center, in shadow) and Bow Glacier above it. Photo looks SW.
Bow Glacier & Bow Glacier Falls with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

On her way to the trail, Lupe passed by Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah lodge with its distinctive red roof.

Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is located along the N shore of beautiful Bow Lake, just off Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.
Loop near Num-Ti-Jah lodge with its distinctive red roof.

The first part of the trek to Bow Glacier Falls went W right along the N shore of Bow Lake.  The easy, level trail gradually turned SW.  The views were stunning from the very start.

The Bow Glacier Falls trail started out from Num-Ti-Jah lodge with this gorgeous view of Crowfoot Mountain (10,023 ft.) (R) across Bow Lake. Part of the Crowfoot Glacier is visible on the L. Photo looks SSE.
Lupe sets out on the Bow Glacier Falls trail. The easy hike to spectacular Bow Glacier Falls (R) is one of the most popular short day hikes in the Canadian Rockies.
Looking SE across Bow Lake. Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) (Center) and Crowfoot Mountain (R) are in view.
The sharp peak a bit L of Center is Saint Nicholas Peak (9,639 ft.). Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) is on the far L. Photo looks SW.
Wildflowers, Bow Lake, Saint Nicholas Peak & Mount Olive from the Bow Glacier Falls trail. Photo looks SW.
Loop a little farther along the trail with Bow Lake & Crowfoot Mountain in the background. Photo looks SSE.
Getting close to the W end of Bow Lake. Photo looks SSW.

By the time Lupe reached the W end of Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls had sunk out of sight behind a forested ridge.  The trail now went SSW following a swift glacier-fed stream.  The stream was braided where it flowed into Bow Lake.

Looking back toward Bow Lake from the braided stream. Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.) (L) looms high in the distance. Lupe had climbed Cirque Peak back on 7-27-14. Cirque Peak had been a great adventure, too, with an awesome view of Bow Lake and the Wapta Icefield above Bow Glacier Falls! Photo looks NE.

Following the stream was super easy.  The trail stayed close to the W bank, but never crossed the river.  In some places cairns marked the way, but they weren’t needed, since it was always obvious where the trail was headed.  Other than one short stretch where the stream forced the trail into the forest, the terrain was level the entire way to a set of stairs at the base of a forested ridge.

Lupe heads up the valley. The trail followed the W side of the gorgeous stream, never crossing it or venturing far from it. Photo looks SSW.
Looking downstream back toward Bow Lake, a slice of which is now barely visible. Photo looks NNE.
Another look downstream from only slightly farther on. Lupe had gotten an early enough start so she had the whole Bow Glacier Falls trail all to herself. She saw no one else at all the whole way to the falls. Photo looks NNE.
Looking upstream now. The trail eventually climbs over the low forested ridge ahead. In fact, it can be seen starting up the ridge a little L of Center. Photo looks SSW.
Loop getting close to the steps (Center) at the base of the forested ridge where the Bow Glacier Falls trail starts up over it. The stream flows down through a narrow gorge just to the L of the stairs. Photo looks SSW.
Lupe visits the downstream end of the narrow gorge the stream flows through on the way to Bow Lake. Photo looks SW.

The only steep section of the whole Bow Glacier Falls trail began with the stairs at the base of the forested ridge.  During this climb, which didn’t take Looper long, the stream was only occasionally in sight.  It could always be heard, though, rushing in a roaring torrent through a deep, narrow chasm nearby.

Once up on the forested ridge, Lupe had a panoramic view of what lay ahead from a bare spot along the edge of the far side.  Below her, two pale blue glacial streams joined forces to form the larger stream that disappeared immediately into the chasm.  One of these smaller streams flowed down from snowfields hidden in an intriguing, mysterious valley to the S.  The other stream came from Bow Glacier Falls, which was now in sight again at the far end of a large rocky amphitheater to the SW.

At the end of the climb up the forested ridge, Lupe reached this barren high spot with a view of what lay ahead. Two streams could be seen coming together just before plunging down into the narrow chasm. The stream at Center flows down from snowfields in the mysterious valley to the S. The other stream (R) comes from Bow Glacier Falls. Photo looks S.
From the barren spot on the forested ridge, Bow Glacier Falls was in view again at the far end of a rocky amphitheater. Photo looks SW.
Bow Glacier Falls from the bare spot on the forested ridge with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
Another look from the same spot.
Looking from the bare spot on the forested ridge into the intriguing valley to the S with lots of help from the telephoto lens. A trail could be seen going up this valley, but SPHP didn’t see how Lupe could get over to it. Mount Olive is on the R. Photo looks S.

Continuing on, Lupe lost a little elevation as the trail descended the other side of the forested ridge into the lower end of the amphitheater below Bow Glacier Falls.  Once in the amphitheater, it was a simple matter to follow the trail up toward the base of the falls.

The Bow Glacial Falls trail became braided and ultimately disintegrated before actually reaching the falls, but the waterfall was always in sight directly ahead.  The rest of the way, Loop sniffed and explored her way among rocks and two inch deep streams that trickled everywhere.

Beyond the forested ridge, the Bow Glacier Falls trail winds its way up toward the base of the falls. Photo looks SW.
Looper on her way through the rocky amphitheater to the base of the falls. Even though the trail eventually disintegrated, Bow Glacier Falls was always in sight all the rest of the way. Photo looks SW.
Getting close!
This was Lupe’s 2nd visit to Bow Glacier Falls. She had also come here on her 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies.
Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 8-2-17

An hour and twenty minutes after leaving Num-Ti-Jah lodge at Bow Lake, Lupe arrived at the base of the falls.  Not a soul was around.  Due to her early morning start, Looper hadn’t seen anyone else on the whole trail.  The coveted solitude wasn’t likely to last long.  The Bow Glacier Falls trail is so accessible, easy, and scenic from start to finish that it is one of the most popular short day hikes in the Canadian Rockies.

Due to her early morning start, Lupe arrived in time to enjoy Bow Glacier Falls all by herself. She hadn’t seen a soul on the whole trail, and no one had beat her here. Photo looks SW.

Of course, the first thing to do was to climb up next to the falls about as high as seemed reasonably safe.

Lupe next to Bow Glacier Falls. The roar of the rushing waters was tremendous!
An American Dingo poses dramatically at the base of Bow Glacier Falls.
Another look including the top of the falls.
Zoomed in on Looper.

Bow Glacier Falls was spectacular, but the views back down the valley were amazing, too!

The views back down the valley from Bow Glacier Falls were amazing! Observation Peak (L) and Cirque Peak (Center) are in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP scrambled around a bit more to get a little higher.  The terrain wasn’t that difficult, but some of the rocks were very slick with water trickling down over them.  Loopster did manage to get somewhat higher than before.  The difference in elevation was enough so the Carolina Dog could now see the W end of Bow Lake.

By scrambling around a bit, Lupe managed to get a little higher than before. She could have gone even farther, but SPHP decided this was good enough. Most of the rocks higher up were wet and slippery.
Lupe as far up as she went at Bow Glacier Falls. She climbed up here a couple of times during her nearly hour long visit. From this high up, she could see the N end of Bow Lake down the valley.
Climbing a little higher had brought the N end of Bow Lake (Center) into view. Observation Peak (L) and Cirque Peak (R) are seen in the distance. Photo looks NE.
Lupe stands on a ledge next to a precariously constructed cairn. Lupe and SPHP took a 30 minute break on this ledge.

Lupe climbed about as far up as the Carolina Dog could reasonably go.  Most of rocks above her were wet and slippery.  SPHP decided she had gone far enough.  Bow Glacier Falls flows down from an unseen upper lake located below Bow Glacier.  It would have been great fun to get up above the falls to see the upper lake and the glacier, but a solid line of cliffs ruled out any possibility of doing that.

Amid the grandeur of the Canadian Rockies, Lupe and SPHP took a 30 minute break on the dry parts of a rock ledge.  The day had warmed up nicely.  Lupe didn’t have a care in the world.  SPHP filled 3 water bottles with water from the Bow Glacier which had tumbled over the falls.  Lupe munched Taste of the Wild, and enjoyed being petted.

The glorious solitude lasted longer than SPHP expected it would, but inevitably people were seen coming up the trail.  The time had arrived to think about moving on.

Lupe perched for a final time back at the high point of her journey to Bow Glacier Falls.
All told, Lupe and SPHP enjoyed an incredible 50 minutes of solitude at Bow Glacier Falls.

After 50 minutes of glorious solitude at Bow Glacier Falls, Lupe and SPHP started down.  Lupe paused along the edge of the falls once or twice for photos, then it was time to hit the trail.  People were getting close.

Loop begins her descent.
Final moments at gorgeous Bow Glacier Falls.

A hiker in one of the first groups Lupe passed on her way down told SPHP that a side trail existed that went all the way up Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.). The side trail left the main trail down at the forested ridge, and wasn’t hard to find. That sounded great!  SPHP was interested immediately.  Lupe should do that today, right now!

Loop on the way through the rocky amphitheater heading back down to the forested ridge. Observation Peak (10,413 ft.) (L) and Cirque Peak (R). Photo looks NE.
Mount Jimmy Simpson from near the forested ridge. A hiker had told SPHP that a side trail to the top of Mount Jimmy Simpson left the Bow Glacier Falls trail at the forested ridge, and that it would be easy to find. Lupe and SPHP spent half an hour looking for it, but managed not to find it. All the side trails seemed to dead end in the forest.

Searching for the trail up Mount Jimmy Simpson, Lupe and SPHP tried several side trails on or near the forested ridge.  None went far.  They all quickly faded away in dense forest on steep slopes.  Hmm.  The hiker had said the correct side trail was easy to find.  Easy perhaps, if one knew exactly where to look.

By now, throngs of hikers were heading up to Bow Glacier Falls.  SPHP asked some of them if they knew anything about a trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson?  No one, not even experienced professional guides leading large groups, had a clue.  Few had even heard of Mount Jimmy Simpson.  Disappointed, SPHP gave up on the idea.

Lupe remained cheerful, however.  The trek to Bow Glacier Falls had been perfect!  The scenery was stunning the entire way, and she’d had a lot of fun sniffing around and getting some exercise.  Now on on the way back, she was getting to see and do it all over again.

Loopster back at the bare spot on the forested ridge where she had a great view of the mysterious valley to the S. The lighting was better now than earlier in the day, but she still couldn’t see what was hidden around that tantalizing corner at the far end of the valley. Photo looks S.
Getting close to the stairs leading to the lower valley. Photo looks NNE.
Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.) (Center) on the way back to Bow Lake. Photo looks NE.

Before noon, Lupe was back at Num-Ti-Jah lodge.  Even with almost an hour spent relaxing near the falls, and the failed search for the side trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson, the whole trek to Bow Glacier Falls and back had taken only a little over 4 hours.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls had been a grand time.  The American Dingo had enjoyed a wonderful needed break from the G6, and seen a favorite part of the glorious Canadian Rockies again.  She was now ready to continue the long journey N on the way to her next adventure.

Looking back at Bow Glacier Falls, now far in the distance, from Bow Lake shortly before reaching Num-Ti-Jah lodge and the G6 again.

Related Links:

Bow Lake & the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-25-13)

Cirque Peak, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-14)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, Banff National Park, Canada (9-6-16)

Day 39 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

6:20 AM on this beautiful early September morning found Lupe already on the road, heading SE on Yellowhead Highway No. 16.  Ever since leaving Alaska, Lupe had made her 450 mile daily quota or a little more.  Today she didn’t need to go so far.  She could spent part of the day visiting some favorite places in the Canadian Rockies.

Lupe’s first stop came before mid-morning when she reached her favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park.  For some unknown reason, there’s no signage for this great picnic area right along the E bank of the mighty Athabasca River.  It’s located 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls along the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

The Athabasca River was much lower than Lupe had ever seen it before, but until today she had never been here this late in the season.  Previously, the river had always come right up to the bank at the edge of the picnic ground.  Now a wide expanse of riverbed was exposed beyond the bank.  Lupe went down to the riverbed, and trotted over rounded stones to the water’s edge.

Lupe had never seen the Athabasca River so low before. She went way out across exposed riverbed to this boulder. Photo looks upstream (SE).
Loop at the Athabasca River near her favorite picnic ground.

Every other time Lupe had seen the Athabasca River, it had been a light gray color, running high, and full of silt.  Now the river was a beautiful blue.

When the Athabasca River is running higher, it is a light gray color and full of silt. Today the river was running low and a beautiful blue. Photo looks downstream (NW).

Time for a late breakfast.  After checking out the river, Lupe returned to the picnic ground.  While SPHP heated up soup and Swiss Miss, Lupe had a fine time barking at squirrels in the trees.  When breakfast was ready, Lupe helped SPHP devour the soup.  She didn’t get any Swiss Miss.

Lupe got to spend nearly 2 hours at the picnic ground.  She took short walks through the forest along the river with SPHP, barked at squirrels, and returned to the Athabasca River.

Looking upstream again toward Mount Christie (10,236 ft.). Photo looks S.
Happy times at the Athabasca River in Jasper National Park! Mount Christie in the background. Lupe’s still keeping a sharp eye out for squirrels up in the trees on the riverbank. Photo looks S.

Late in the morning, another vehicle pulled in to the picnic ground.  No doubt more would be coming as lunch time approached.  Lupe and SPHP hit the road again.  Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 through the majestic Canadian Rockies is always a spectacular drive.

Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the scenery, passing by many gorgeous places Lupe had explored on her 2013 and 2014 Dingo Vacations.  Lupe didn’t stop again, however, until she reached the trailhead for Parker Ridge (7,612 ft.).  By now it was early afternoon, and the trailhead parking lot was packed.  SPHP had to wait for a parking spot to open up.

Parker Ridge is Lupe and SPHP’s favorite short day hike in the Canadian Rockies.  A well-traveled trail switchbacks up the side of the ridge.  On the other side is a tremendous view of the huge U-shaped valley carved long ago by the Saskatchewan Glacier.  The glacier can still be seen in the upper part of the valley flowing down from the Columbia Icefield.  The trail gains over 800 feet of elevation on its way to the ridgeline.

The Parker Ridge Trail was very busy, but the glorious view of the Saskatchewan Glacier from the other side of the ridge made dealing with the crowd totally worthwhile.

Once over the ridgeline, Lupe had fantastic views of the Saskatchewan Glacier. Photo looks SW.
The Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

The way the terrain is configured, Lupe’s view of the Saskatchewan Glacier actually improved as she followed the trail on the other side of Parker Ridge away from the glacier.  More of the toe of the glacier could be seen from here.

The farther Lupe followed the trail away from the Saskatchewan Glacier, the more she could see of the glacier’s toe and the pond below it. Photo looks SW.
Looking W along Parker Ridge. On the other side of these mountains is Jasper National Park and another impressive glacier. The Athabasca Glacier can be seen from Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, but for a truly amazing view of it, Lupe recommends taking the trail to Wilcox Pass.
The Saskatchewan Glacier flows down from the Columbia Icefield, the largest icefield in North America’s Rocky Mountains.

Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
An even closer look at the toe of the Saskatchewan Glacier through the telephoto lens.
Across the huge valley carved by the Saskatchewan Glacier, Lupe saw high peaks and impressive snowfields. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe followed the Parker Ridge trail far enough away from the Saskatchewan Glacier to where she could see its entire toe.

Lupe with a view of the entire toe of the Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge.
A close-up showing the entire toe of the glacier.

Several groups of people had gone this far along the trail, too.  Everyone was hanging around enjoying the glacier view.  After several minutes, Lupe realized people and Carolina Dogs weren’t the only ones interested in being here.  A mountain sheep wandered up the steep side of Parker Ridge from the valley below, likely more interested in finding something to eat than the grand view.

After all, mountain sheep are so used to splendid scenery they pretty much take it for granted.  A good meal can be harder to come by.

A mountain sheep wandered up to the Parker Ridge trail from the deep valley below. The sheep seemed used to people, but rather alarmed to be confronted with the presence of an American Dingo!
When the mountain sheep saw Lupe, it hesitated before coming any farther up. Lupe and the mountain sheep were both extremely interested in each other, but for different reasons.
For mountain sheep in the Canadian Rockies, spectacular scenery is easy to come by. Photo looks ESE from close to the end of the Parker Ridge trail.

For a few minutes, Lupe and the mountain sheep had a stare down.  Lupe was a very good American Dingo.  She did not bark or lunge at the sheep.  She wouldn’t have gotten anywhere anyway, since she was on her leash.

Lupe and the mountain sheep stared each other down for several minutes before the sheep decided it was safe to come farther on up Parker Ridge.

When Lupe didn’t do anything except stare in rapt attention, the mountain sheep decided maybe it was safe to come farther on up Parker Ridge.  It turned out this sheep was an advance scout.  Several more mountain sheep suddenly made their appearance.

The first mountain sheep was only a scout. When the scout decided it was OK to advance despite Lupe’s presence, the rest of the flock started appearing. Six sheep ultimately came into view.

A total of six mountain sheep came up onto Parker Ridge from below.  Lupe still didn’t bark, but the sight of all these mountain sheep wandering around nearby was almost more than she could bear.  The Carolina Dog was trembling with excitement from nose to tail.  She kept glancing up at SPHP pleading to be turned loose.  She was absolutely 110% certain fresh mutton would taste better than the soup she’d had for breakfast.

This situation wasn’t going to be sustainable.  To Lupe’s enormous disappointment, SPHP insisted that she head back away from the mountain sheep.  She was most reluctant to comply, but in the end, she had no choice.  Parker Ridge had certainly been an exciting adventure, but oh, how much better it might have been!

Lupe on Parker Ridge on the way back to the G6. Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) is in view at Center. To the R is Wilcox Pass, where there are tremendous views of the nearby Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 (3:48 PM, 48°F).  Lupe continued S on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  Her biggest adventure for the day up on Parker Ridge was over, but she still had some fun ahead of her.  Overcome with drowsiness from the gorgeous, relaxing drive, SPHP eventually parked the G6 at Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Banff National Park on the SE side of Bow Lake.

After an hour’s nap, Lupe got to go see wonderful Bow Lake.

Lupe at beautiful Bow Lake. Photo looks W from near the picnic ground.
The red roof of the Num Ti Jah Lodge is in view at the foot of Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.) across Bow Lake. Photo looks NW.
Looking S along the shore.
On a path at the picnic ground. No one else was around. Lupe and SPHP had the whole place to themselves.

The picnic ground was completely deserted, even though it was dinnertime.  After a good look at Bow Lake, SPHP prepared dinner at a table near the shore.  At this late stage of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation, supplies were almost completely exhausted.  Lupe and SPHP shared the last of the soup and sardines.

Good thing Lupe was well on her way home!  Swiss Miss and tea was all that remained to sustain SPHP, though Lupe still had some Taste of the Wild and Alpo in reserve.

By the time this feast was over it was 7:00 PM, but there was still light in the sky.  Lupe and SPHP drove over to the Num Ti Jah Lodge at the N end of the lake.  Lupe went down to the shore and saw a curious thing.  A piece of wood was swimming around as if it were alive!

Near Num Ti Jah Lodge, Lupe saw a curious sight. A piece of wood was swimming around in Bow Lake as if it were alive!

Lupe had spotted a beaver!  The beaver paddled around near the shore completely unconcerned by Lupe’s presence.  Lupe wasn’t really certain why that piece of wood seemed so lively, but finally lost interest in it since it never came out of the water where it could be properly sniffed and inspected.

The beaver paid Lupe no attention. Since it never left the lake, Lupe eventually lost interest in it.
The beaver had a short stick it was gnawing the tender thin bark off of.
After a few minutes, the stick didn’t have much bark left. The beaver looked quite satisfied with this treat.
After a few minutes, the lively piece of wood (seen beyond Lupe) swam away. Photo looks SSE across Bow Lake. Part of the Crowfoot Glacier is in view R of Center beyond the opposite shore.
Lupe, the beaver, Bow Lake & the Crowfoot Glacier.

The beaver eventually swam away farther out into the lake.  Lupe never did figure out what made that floating piece of wood so much livelier than any other she’d ever encountered.

Off to the SW, part of Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls were in view.  A trail that Lupe took once before on her Summer of 2013 Dingo Vacation goes all the way to the base of Bow Glacier Falls.  It would be dark long before Lupe could do that again, but there was still time to follow the trail partway along the N shore of Bow Lake.

Beyond Bow Lake, part of the Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls were in view. Photo looks SW.
Bow Glacier & Bow Glacier Falls using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
Too bad there wasn’t time to take the trail all the way to Bow Glacier Falls again, but it would be dark before Lupe could get there. It’s a great, easy, scenic hike with a good trail and very little elevation gain along the way. Lupe highly recommends it!
Num Ti Jah Lodge is at the N end of Bow Lake. The trail to Bow Glacier Falls starts here. Photo looks N.
This hefty, wooden bridge crosses a small creek entering Bow Lake near Num Ti Jah Lodge. Photo looks SSE.
Bow Glacier flows down from the Wapta Icefield. Another small lake exists out of sight below Bow Glacier above the falls. Neither the small upper lake, nor the glacier are visible from the base of Bow Glacier Falls. However, a distant view of both, plus part of the enormous Wapta Icefield can be seen from Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.). Photo looks SW.

Lupe and SPHP only took the trail to Bow Glacier Falls along the N shore of Bow Lake for 20 minutes.  Lupe hadn’t even made it to the end of the lake yet when the time came to turn around.  Darkness was coming, maybe rain, too.  The sky was clouding up.

Lupe on the trail to Bow Glacier Falls. She would have to turn around in another 10 minutes due to oncoming darkness. Crowfoot Mountain is on the L.
Clouds were rolling in and starting to hide the mountains. The sky looked increasingly like rain was a possibility. Photo looks SSW using the telephoto lens toward a peak S of Bow Glacier.
Bow Glacier & Bow Glacier Falls through the telephoto lens from the point of Lupe’s farthest advance along the trail.
The upper portion of Bow Glacier Falls with the telephoto lens cranked up.

On the way back to the Num Ti Jah Lodge, a gentle steady rain did start falling.  The lodge was lit up and looked inviting when Lupe returned.  The soggy Carolina Dog couldn’t go in, though.  She had to return to the G6.

Num Ti Jah Lodge was lit up and looked inviting when Lupe returned in the rain from the Bow Glacier Falls trail. The soggy Carolina Dog couldn’t go in, though. Back to the G6!

Around 8:30 PM, SPHP parked the G6 for the final time.  The steady rain was coming down harder.  The temperature was only 38°F.  Maybe Lupe was going to get snowed in overnight in the Canadian Rockies?  It sure seemed like a possibility.

Lupe had only made 250 miles today, but that was OK.  She’d spent a lovely day in the Canadian Rockies.  Maybe it wasn’t the most spectacular day she’d ever spent here, but she’d seen many beautiful sights, gone to some favorite places, and had several pleasant, relaxing outings.

Lupe’s only regret was that with supplies running desperately low, SPHP hadn’t allowed her to secure a great new supply of fresh mountain sheep mutton!

Sigh … Carolina Dogs try to be man’s best friend.  They really do.  Humans are hard to understand, though.  Sometimes they don’t have any sense at all.Note:  The Parker Ridge trailhead is located at a pullout right along the southbound side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 several miles S of Sunwapta Pass, the border between Banff & Jasper National Parks.

Links :

Next Adventure                       Prior Adventure

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefield Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-23-13)

Bow Lake & the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls (7-25-13)

Cirque Peak, Banff National Park, Canada (7-24-14)

Parker Ridge Trail, Banff National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to New Lupe Adventures.