Canadian Rockies – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-25-23)

Days 1 & 2, and Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-23-23, 11:30 AM, 82ºF – On her pink blanket atop pillows and various gear, the Carolina Dog was excited!

Ready to roll whenever you are, SPHP!

If I’ve forgotten anything else, we’re just going to have to buy it somewhere along the way. Show time, sweet puppy!

Turning the key, SPHP backed the RAV4 out of the driveway. Lupe’s grand and glorious 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska was underway!

Stops to sniff the air and stretch were few and far between on this first day. Lupe kept a nose out for cows and horses, but there didn’t seem to be as many of them this year. Probably huddled around whatever water or shade they could find. All through Wyoming, temperatures were in the mid-90’s °F as the RAV4 raced W along I-90.

Montana was an oven! 101ºF when SPHP dashed into Albertson’s in Billings to grab an 8-piece baked chicken deal. No time to get anything else in there, or the American Dingo would have baked, too, stuck in the RAV4 without the AC on, even with the windows down.

7-23-23, 8:28 PM – At 73ºF, conditions in the Little Belt Mountains were much more tolerable by the time Lupe bounded out of the RAV4 full of enthusiasm.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)! Love it here, SPHP! Any preference? Want to climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) first?

Sun will be down soon, Loop, so we only have time for one or the other this evening. How about Kings Hill? We can do Porphyry in the morning.

Shortly after cutting through the forest up to USFS Road No. 487, thunder rumbled in the distance. Lightning played among the dark clouds to the S, and a light rain began to fall.

7-23-23, 9:07 PM, 68ºF, Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) – The rain was already over and done with by the time the American Dingo reached the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. An orange glow was on the WNW horizon, and some of the clouds overhead glittered like gold.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from **Kings Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

By the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Looks promising! Maybe there’s going to be a nice sunset, SPHP?

You might be right, Looper. Let’s go over by the edge to watch the show.

Going a little down the WNW slope, Lupe sat watching the developing display. The air was cool, fresh, and the clearest it had ever been on any of Lupe’s prior visits to Kings Hill.

The sunset turned out to be the best one ever, too.

Sunset from **Kings Hill**. **Porphyry Peak** (L). Photo looks NW.

7-24-23, 7:20 AM, 69ºF – Although this was going to be another travel day, as promised, Lupe got to start the morning with a jaunt up USFS Roads No. 838 & No. 6388 to visit the Showdown ski facilities and fire lookout tower on Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

At the base of the **Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower**. Photo looks E.

The **survey benchmark** that was in front of Lupe in the previous photo.

Heading over to the Showdown ski lifts. Photo looks ESE.

**Fire lookout tower** (L), **Showdown ski facility** (R). Photo looks NW.

The most impressive views were of Big Baldy Mountain, which Lupe had once been to, and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.).

**Big Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Yogo Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

We ought to visit Yogo Peak, too, SPHP!

Maybe someday, Looper, but not today. Canada and Alaska, remember? This is it for your morning constitutional. C’mon, we need to get back to the RAV4 and make some tracks.

Using one of the ski runs as a bit of a shortcut, Lupe headed down to the roads leading back to Kings Hill Pass.

Leaving **Porphyry Peak**. **Big Baldy Mountain** (R of Center), **Yogo Peak** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

The shortcut back to the USFS roads. Photo looks NW.

Driving out of the Little Belt Mountains, SPHP stopped briefly at the Al Buck Memorial Park so Lupe could get a drink from the spring gushing out of a hillside. Other than a couple of quick stops for food and fuel, that was it before crossing into Canada at the N end of I-15 at 12:57 PM.

Enjoying a drink from the spring at the **Al Buck Memorial Park** along Hwy 89.

At midday, even the Canadian border was a scorching 99ºF! Despite the heat, Lupe left the cool comfort of the RAV4’s AC long enough to pose by the Alberta welcome sign.

The **Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood** returns to **Canada**!

Another long drive with only occasional brief stops ensued. By early evening, the Carolina Dog was back in the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

7-24-23, 6:30 PM, 85ºF, Banff – As usual, beautiful Banff was jam-packed with tourists, and justifiably so. A couple of changes were evident since Lupe had been here last year. It was no longer possible to drive along Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown, which was now reserved solely for pawdestrians, and the fancy new upstream pawbridge over the Bow River that had been under construction in 2022 was now complete and open to the public.

Lupe’s evening in Banff began with a stroll along the turquoise blue Bow River. Famous Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) was in sight as she crossed the new upstream pawbridge, while the downstream bridge offered a great view of the N end of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.).

**Cascade Mountain** (Center) beyond the new upstream pawbridge. Photo looks N.

**Mount Rundle** (Center) from the downstream bridge. Photo looks SE.

Continuing downstream, Lupe visited Bow Falls, which was more like a steep rapids than a vertical waterfall, but awesome nevertheless. From there, a trail led up to the historic Banff Springs Hotel.

Along the **Bow River** below the falls. Photo looks E.

The historic **Banff Springs Hotel**. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with a long-standing Banff tradition – Lupe’s Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown.

Lupe’s one-Dingo **Pretty Puppy Parade** in the center of **Banff**.

7-25-23, 6:37 AM, 66ºF – Early sunshine was peeping through the clouds on this breezy, unsettled morning, and Banff was still quiet as Lupe left town. At least, it was quiet until the Carolina Dog spotted several giant deers. Nearly tame, they seemed more perplexed than alarmed as they were subjected to ferocious barking emitting from the RAV4.

Guess you told them, didn’t you, Loopster? A bit rudely, though.

Giant deers are incredibly exciting, SPHP! Right on the edge of town, too! A great start to a great day. Now that we’ve made it to the Canadian Rockies, what’s on the agenda?

Been ages since we’ve seen the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass. Thinking we might do that, Looper. We can stop at a few favorite spots along the way, too, if you like.

Sounds terrific, SPHP!

It was a fine plan. However, driving W on Hwy 1, the sky soon became very dark. The mountains turned gray, then vanished amid heavy rain.

Shucks, Loop! Looks we’re going to miss out on the Canadian Rockies, and get stuck with a rainy day drive. Sorry! Nothing I can do about it, though.

Most disappointing! However, current conditions were deceptive. By the time the RAV4 reached Lake Louise, the rain was over and blue sky was ahead.

7-25-23, 7:49 AM, 42ºF, Bow Lake picnic area along Icefields Parkway No. 93 – So much for the baking heat of the plains! SPHP dug a couple more layers of clothing out of the duffle bags, put them on, then accompanied the Carolina Dog down to the lakeshore. Beyond the rippled surface, a red roof stood out way over along opposite N shore.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (R of Center) beyond **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls and Mount Jimmy Simpson starts over there, remember, SPHP? That’s the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge!

Of, course! Awesome times, sweet puppy! However, they’ve now changed the name from Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, to just the Lodge at Bow Lake. Easier to remember, I suppose.

7-25-23, 8:57 AM, – Lupe’s next stop was only a few km farther N. The L turn off Icefields Parkway No. 93 for the Peyto Lake overlook came at the top of Bow Pass. Surprisingly, the 0.6 km paved trail to the overlook had been rerouted since the last time the American Dingo was here. The view deck was new, too, and much larger than it used to be.

Across the deep valley the lake was nestled in, Cauldron Peak (9,580 ft.) towered over the far shore, with Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) standing like a sentinel along the edge of the Mistaya River valley, where a long line of magnificent mountains stretched off to the N horizon.

At the fancy new **Peyto Lake view deck**. **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** from the end of the deck. **Mount Patterson** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** with **Cauldron Mountain** (L), **Mount Patterson** (Center), **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Love how Peyto Lake has such an amazing, milky, turquoise blue color! Don’t you, SPHP?

Oh, of course! That’s because it’s a glacier-fed lake, Loopster. Remember your Search for the Peyto Glacier? We took a primitive trail down to Peyto Creek from here, and wandered up the valley.

We never did find the Peyto Glacier, SPHP.

Beyond our abilities, Loopster, but we had a great time. If you look SW up the valley, you can actually see Peyto Peak (9,711 ft.) and part of the Peyto Glacier from right here on the view deck.

**Peyto Glacier** (Center), **Peyto Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Peyto Glacier** (L), **Peyto Peak** (R), **Peyto Creek** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Once upon a time, the American Dingo had also taken a shorter trail from here to Bow Summit, a high spot with a gorgeous view of Bow Lake back to the S, although admittedly not as grand as the one from Mount Jimmy Simpson.

However, with Wilcox Pass on the agenda, Lupe didn’t visit Bow Summit again today. A final quick stop at the Carson Creek picnic ground along the North Saskatchewan River, where SPHP got the pack ready, was it before the main event.

**North Saskatchewan River** from the Carson Creek picnic ground. Photo looks SE.

7-25-23, 11:04 AM, 48ºF – As Icefields Parkway No. 93 went up and over Sunwapta Pass, the Carolina Dog left Banff National Park behind, and entered Jasper National Park. Wilcox Creek campground was only 2.5 km farther on the R. For a change, the severely under-sized Wilcox Pass trailhead near the entrance to the campground wasn’t entirely overrun. SPHP was lucky enough to grab a vacant parking spot for the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way!

The incredibly popular Wilcox Pass trail began with a short climb into the forest along a broad, smooth path. Before long, the trail was even wider and covered with a multitude of roots. After a fairly flat section, the trail began climbing at a good clip, eventually flattening out shortly before leading to a boardwalk with a set of stairs.

Near the start of the **Wilcox Pass trail**.

Beyond the boardwalk, the trail climbed more steeply again. The first viewpoint came soon after going around a bend NW, but only hinted at the glories yet to come. An open slope a little farther on revealed much more. Although the Athabasca Glacier wasn’t in sight yet, Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) were.

**Snow Dome** (L), **Mount Kitchener** (R) from the first good viewpoint. Photo looks W.

The Wilcox Pass trail leveled out to some degree as it continued NW through another stretch of forest. When Lupe reached the next open slope, most of the Athabasca Glacier was in view.

Along the last stretch of dense forest. Photo looks NW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (Center), **Mount Kitchener** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Something new was ahead! Two red chairs faced the already grand view of the glacier flanked by Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda on the L, and Snow Dome and Mount Kitchener on the R. Lupe got up on a platform connecting the chairs, braving a brisk SW breeze.

Red chairs viewpoint. **Mount Kitchener** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center). Photo looks S.

What a great spot, Loopster! If one didn’t feel like going any farther, these chairs wouldn’t be a bad place to hang out. Both Hilda Peak (9,974 ft.) and the top of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) are in sight, in addition to all the big peaks over by the Athabasca Glacier.

Don’t get any ideas, SPHP. We’re going all the way to Wilcox Pass!

The red chairs were near treeline. Only scattered stands of increasingly stunted forest and bushes were ahead, as tundra-covered slopes began to dominate. A relatively flat section of the trail continued a bit farther NW toward a big gully below the Wilcox Pass region, which was now starting to come into view.

Near the gully, the trail veered N, climbing steeply for 200 feet before once again angling NW. The slope steadily diminished as Lupe entered a rumpled region of low bushes, tundra, and small rock formations.

The flat stretch of trail beyond the red chairs. **Mount Wilcox** (far L). **Wilcox Pass region** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Above the steepest stretch. **Big gully** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

In the **rumpled region**. Photo looks NW.

The Wilcox Pass trail kept flattening, literally becoming a stroll in the park – Jasper National Park! By the time Lupe reached the shallow stream that flowed into the gully, most of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in view, and Wilcox Pass wasn’t much farther.

From a rock outcropping capping a small rise near the stream, a huge ridge was in sight beyond Mount Wilcox.

Recognize that ridge, Loop? You were there since the last time we visited Wilcox Pass.

Hmm. Not sure, SPHP. Give me a hint!

Well, it’s possible to continue over Wilcox Pass along this trail and wind up over there, but that’s not how we did it. Instead we started down by Tangle Falls where the NW end of the Wilcox Pass trail reaches Icefields Parkway No. 93 again.

Tangle Falls! That’s a great hint, SPHP. That must be Tangle Ridge! Oh, that was another great day in the Canadian Rockies!

Indeed it was, Loopster! Fun to see Tangle Ridge again from here.

Closing in on **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Wilcox** (L of Center), **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

About to cross the **shallow stream**. Photo looks NW.

**Tangle Ridge** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 12:35 PM, 41ºF – Wilcox Pass was so cold and windy when Lupe arrived, that SPHP dumped the pack then layered up – stocking cap, coat, gloves, the whole bit. Although the Carolina Dog had seen surprisingly few people thus far, plenty were up here, all dressed like winter was coming while exploring the vast Wilcox Pass region.

**Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Hilda Peak** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (R) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks S.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

A sign said it was 1.4 km to Wilcox Ridge. As awesome as all the wide open spaces were at Wilcox Pass, the pass was never the Carolina Dog’s ultimate destination. Wilcox Ridge was where the stupendous view of the Athabasca Glacier was. Lupe always went there! Despite the cold wind, coming all the way to Wilcox Pass and not going to Wilcox Ridge would be simply ridiculous.

**Wilcox Ridge** from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks W.

The spur trail heading W up into the Wilcox Ridge region used to fade away, simply becoming more of a choose-your-own-path route once it turned SW. However, the trail was now very distinct. If there was any question at all about it, new cairns held together by wire cages, each bearing a yellow diamond, marked the way.

More than halfway to the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint, Lupe came to a long rock wall serving as a windbreak. That was new, too. The Carolina Dog was glad one thing hadn’t changed. Bighorn mountain sheep still grazed these windswept slopes.

Signage at the Wilcox Pass trail junction.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) from one of the yellow diamond cairns. Photo looks S.

At the rock wall windbreak. Photo looks SW.

The Wilcox Ridge Trail went over a series of minor ridges and ravines on the way to what appeared to be a more formal viewpoint than Lupe had ever seen here before. Quite a few people were already present as the American Dingo arrived. Preferring more solitude, SPHP decided to take a side route farther W, closer to the SE end of the narrow ridge leading up Mount Wilcox before selecting another spot along the SW edge where Lupe could relax on a patch of tundra.

Approaching the **Wilcox Ridge Athabasca Glacier viewpoint**. Photo looks SW.

Heading a little farther W before taking a break. **Mount Wilcox** (R). Photo looks W.

7-25-23, 1:36 PM, 43ºF – The 30 mph gale sweeping in from the SW felt really cold at the viewpoint SPHP had chosen. Fortunately, conditions weren’t nearly as bad while relaxing just a few feet back from the edge. Facing SW directly into the breeze, Lupe once again enjoyed one of the most magnificent easily accessible views in the Canadian Rockies.

Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) on the L, and Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) on the R, with the Athabasca Glacier between them, flowing down from the almost entirely hidden Columbia Icefield.

Looking S. **Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (R).

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (R), **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SW.

Still a truly incredible scene, SPHP, but there isn’t as much snow and ice as I remember.

Yup. The Athabasca Glacier is steadily retreating, Loopster. One day in the not too distant future, it will be but a memory.

That’s a terribly sad thought, SPHP! This has to be one of my favorite places in the Canadian Rockies, although seeing the Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge, Berg Lake at the base of Mount Robson , Moraine Lake, and Lake Louise all rank way up there, too.

All fabulous choices, Looper. However, if we were limited to being able to come back to only one spot in the Canadian Rockies ever again, I might well choose Wilcox Pass and this view. Most spectacular scenic reward for a half day hike there is!

Peering over the edge, Sunwapta Lake, the meltwater pond that used to be at the toe of the glacier once upon a time, and the Icefields Centre, where it’s possible to get tickets to actually ride in a snowcoach up onto the Athabasca Glacier, were in sight 1,400 feet below. Looking back to the ESE, Sunwapta Pass and Nigel Peak were in view.

**Icefields Centre** (Center) down by **Icefields Parkway No. 93**. **Sunwapta Lake** (R) below the toe of the **Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks ESE.

**Nigel Peak** (L) and **Sunwapta Pass** (R). Photo looks ESE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this marvelous scene for the first time in nearly 7 years, then shared a chocolate coconut bar with her.

For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP hung out together in the cold breeze, admiring the glory in all directions, chief of which was the splendid panorama of the Athabasca glacier and surrounding mighty peaks.

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), part of **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Happy Lupe with **Mount Athabasca** (L) and the **Athabasca Glacier** (R) beyond her. Photo looks S.

Oh, we’ll never get tired of Wilcox Pass and these views of the Athabasca Glacier, will we, SPHP?

Not even if we live to be 100, Loopster!

7-25-23, 2:38 PM – Absent-mindedly, SPHP shook the box, then looking down realized it was empty.

Holy moly, Loop! I’ve eaten an entire box of Dots sitting here. Guess I’ll be on a sugar high now! Sadly, our hour at this splendid perch has flown. Ready to move on?

Hate to leave, SPHP, but more adventures lie ahead, don’t they?

Gobs of ’em, Looper, a whole Dingo Vacation chock full of them!

A final appreciative look, and Lupe was on her way.

**Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (far R).

After leaving her fabulous viewpoint, Lupe explored the region closer to the SE end of Mount Wilcox. Great fun, but all too quickly, she arrived back at Wilcox Pass. Still awesome views all around, but just a matter of following the trail back now.

Leaving the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint. **Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Back at **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L edge), **Tangle Ridge** (Center). Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 4:06 PM, 52ºF – Warmer, actually quite pleasant, with scarcely even a breeze, when Lupe leapt back onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 at the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Wilcox Pass, and lots of beautiful places on the way to it! My 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska is off to a terrific start, SPHP!

And still time enough for more sight-seeing yet today, Loop. Hope you’re in the mood for some awesome Canadian Rockies waterfalls, sweet puppy!

I am! Turn the key, and let’s hit the road N. Onward! SPHP, ho!

The **Athabasca Glacier**, **Snow Dome** & **Mount Kitchener** from **Wilcox Ridge**, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Peyto Lake & Lupe’s Search for the Peyto Glacier, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-26-13)

Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Oh, Canada! – The Long Road North: To The Canadian Rockies & Beyond! (7-30-22 thru 8-3-22)

Days 1-5 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-30-22, 2:30 PM, 92ºF, home – Hours of preparations and excitement had led to this! Resting high on her pink blanket covering a pile of supplies and padding, Lupe smiled broadly in happy anticipation of what was next. The American Dingo was about to set off on her 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation, and this wasn’t just any old Dingo Vacation, oh no!

Are we really going to Canada and Alaska, SPHP? It’s been 3 years! I was afraid we might not ever see them again!

SPHP tried to sound convincingly cheerful.

Absolutely, sweet puppy! At least, if Canada will actually let us cross the border. Think I’ve got everything all lined up. We’ll just have to see how it goes. Should be fine, Canada is officially open again!

Before turning the key, SPHP looked over at Lupe. She was so beautiful, and so happy! This late July afternoon truly was a rare and wonderful occasion, only the 5th time the Carolina Dog had ever set off for Alaska!

Epic! Yet also bittersweet. SPHP was filled with grief and remorse. The left side of Lupe’s face had an ugly wound on it. Brand new. And it was all SPHP’s fault on this otherwise joyful day.

Loopster ready to set out for Canada & Alaska for the first time in 3 years!

Happened just yesterday. At some point in the last month or so Lupe must have rolled in something, because she’d had a black, sticky, tar-like substance clinging to a small clump of fur on her face for the last several weeks. When it wouldn’t wash off, wanting Loop to look her finest for her next big Dingo Vacation, SPHP had gotten out a scissors to cut away that little clump of gooey fur.

The tar was tougher, and provided more resistance than expected, but a few seconds of cutting with the scissors had finally done the trick. The tar came off, but when it did, SPHP was instantly shocked and horrified.

Oh, no! Oh my gosh, Lupe! What have I done? I’ve cut your beautiful face wide open! You didn’t flinch, or bark, or shy away from me. You should have bit me! Instead you just looked trustingly into my eyes and let me do this terrible, painful thing to you. I’m so sorry! How could I have been so careless and such an idiot? We’re going to the puppy doctor!

At the emergency clinic, the puppy doctor cut away a loose flap of skin with beautiful fur still clinging to it that was going to die anyway, fully exposing the hideous wound. The wound wasn’t deep, just a fleshy spot the size of a nickel seeping a little blood. Staples or stitches to close the gap weren’t required, but Lupe’s fur wasn’t likely to ever grow back. She would always have a scar.

Lupe went home with an anti-biotic cream and pain pills.

SPHP was guilty, guilty, guilty, but there was nothing more to be done.

Oh, Lupe! We’re going to have so many grand adventures in Canada and Alaska on this Dingo Vacation! Going to be just like old times! You ready?

I can hardly wait, SPHP!

SPHP turned the key, and backed the RAV4 out of the driveway. After 3 long years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way!

7-31-22, 7:18 AM, 52ºF Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Exactly 3 weeks ago, on the last day of her prior Dingo Vacation to Wyoming, Lupe had been by here on an evening so cold and windy that SPHP had chickened out and driven her straight home. The Carolina Dog was back, though! From the Bald Mountain campground off Hwy 14A, Loop trotted toward the familiar open slopes of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).

Setting out for **Bald Mountain** (L). Photo looks SE.

Are we going to fix the names, SPHP?

We are! Hard to believe, but it’s been 4 years since we’ve been up on Bald Mountain, Loopster. A little maintenance is likely in order.

Make that quite a bit of maintenance. The names were still there, but in poor condition when Lupe found them not too far from the NW end of the vast summit region. The American Dingo had plenty of time to sniff about while SPHP made extensive repairs.

Loopster by her reconstituted name on **Bald Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Once the names were back in order, Lupe naturally completed the easy stroll to the true summit. Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) and it’s giant FAA golf ball were in sight several miles back to the NW, but all the more distant views were hazy.

**Medicine Mountain** (L of Center) from **Bald Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks NW.

The entire American West fills up with smoke every summer, doesn’t it Looper? Didn’t use to be that way.

Oh, but aren’t we the lucky ones, SPHP? Bet we won’t have to worry about smoke once we get far enough N into Canada!

Sure hope you’re right, Loop, and suspect you are, but you never know. Remember how smoky even Alaska was in 2019?

5:01 PM, 81ºF, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Bald Mountain had been a great morning romp! Most of the rest of the day had been a long, hot drive from Wyoming on into Montana. So many cows and horses to bark at! It had been a wonderful, if shrill time. Late afternoon now, but Lupe had made it here early enough to honor a long-standing tradition.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)! We really, truly are going to Canada, aren’t we, SPHP? We always come here first!

Almost always, Loop. We didn’t the first time in 2013, but ever since then, yeah. The Little Belt Mountains are a nice, cool spot to spend a night.

We always climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) when we do come here, SPHP. So which will it be? Any preference?

Yes, but we really don’t have to choose between them. Should have time to visit both! Whad’ya say we climb Kings Hill first?

**Kings Hill true summit**. Photo looks S.

**Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower**. Photo looks ENE.

**Big Baldy Mountain** (Center) from **Porphyry Peak**. Photo looks NNE.

8-1-22, 12:05 PM, I-15 at Port of Coutts, Montana/Canada border – Only 2 Canadian customs lanes were open. The RAV4 was 6th in line.

Moment of truth coming up, Loopster! Hope they don’t make us wait. Told them on Arrive-CAN that we wouldn’t be here until 3:00 PM.

Waiting won’t be so bad, SPHP, provided Canada ultimately lets us in. You had to specify the exact hour of arrival?

Yeah. Knew we’d be here by noon, but decided to give ourselves some slack just in case. Don’t know what we’ll do if Canada says no, and just sends us away. We’ll have to plan an entirely different Dingo Vacation, pronto.

**Canadian customs**, Port of Coutts opposite Sweetgrass, Montana.

For 10 minutes the line seemed stuck. No movement. Then suddenly whatever had been the hold-up was over. Soon SPHP was handing a US passport to the Canadian customs agent. 2 minutes later, the RAV4 was picking up speed, heading N!

Whoo-hoo! We’re in, Loop! You’re back in, Canada! On to Lethbridge!

That was easy, SPHP! Same old questions they always ask you.

Yup! Not a word about Covid-19. All that hassle and worry over nothing.

Our reputation as world class anti-social distancers must have preceded us, SPHP.

Oh, yes! I’m sure that’s it, Looper. Anyway, I’m glad it went the way it did. Smooth sailing now!

So, what’s next, SPHP? Where are we going first?

Mostly just driving again today, Loopster. Been so long since we’ve been to Canada and Alaska that I want to make tracks N as fast as we can the next few days. That doesn’t mean we can’t take the scenic route, though. How about something old and something new this afternoon?

You’re being coy, SPHP, but OK, surprise me!

Hwy 40 over Highwood Pass was the scenic route. Kananaskis Country! Peter Lougheed Provincial Park! The American Dingo hadn’t been to beautiful Upper Kananaskis Lake since 2014, but saw it again today.

**Storm Mountain (10,153 ft.)** (Center) from Hwy 40 on the way to Highwood Pass. Photo looks NNE.

**Gap Mountain (8,661 ft.)** (L) from **Highwood Pass**. Photo looks NW.

Gorgeous **Upper Kananaskis Lake**. Photo looks NW.

After a pleasant half hour at Upper Kananaskis Lake, the something new was a trip along washboardy Smith-Dorrien Road, the purpose being to see the Spray Lakes Reservoir for the first time ever. An odd trail from a picnic ground led a short distance down through a forest to a small cliff overlooking the lake. A better lakeshore viewpoint appeared only a few miles farther N along the road.

**Spray Lakes Reservoir**. **Big Sister (9,633 ft.)** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

On the odd trail overlooking **Spray Lakes Reservoir**. Photo looks SW.

A better view from right along the shoreline. Photo looks S.

By evening, Lupe was in Banff!

Oh, SPHP! I love Banff! Can we do my traditional Pretty Puppy Parade up and down Banff Avenue? Haven’t done it in ever so long!

Absolutely, Loopster! Can’t miss out on the Pretty Puppy Parade!

Banff had changed since the last time Lupe was here. Vehicles were no longer permitted in the heart of downtown. People were dining at tables out in the street, and a new footbridge was under construction over the Bow River. Banff was still it’s same old festive self, though, with scenic Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) looming in the distance, lined-up perfectly with Banff Avenue.

The Pretty Puppy Parade, a stroll along Banff Avenue while taking in all the tourists, fancy shops, and sniffing with other dogs as opportunity arose, was a success as always. 3 young men from Maryland wanted to pet Lupe. They told her how beautiful she was, which made her day!

Back in **Banff** on the **Pretty Puppy Parade**! **Cascade Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

**Bow River** looking W toward the new footbridge.

8-2-22, 6:30 AM, Banff – Although the night had been warm, the morning was pleasantly cool as the RAV4 hit Hwy 1 on the way out of Banff. An incredibly scenic drive was ahead.

Only one day to spend in the Canadian Rockies? Not nearly enough, SPHP!

Oh, don’t I know it, Loopster? Remember back in 2013 and 2014 when the Canadian Rockies were as far as we went on your Dingo Vacations?

We enjoyed many glorious adventures here, SPHP!

Indeed we did, Loop! Even though we’re making tracks N, we’ll still stop at some of our favorite Canadian Rockies highlights today.

I suppose that’s something, SPHP, but sometime we need to come back to really explore again.

So many mountains, so little time! Lupe was far from alone in wanting to spend more time in the Canadian Rockies. Even though she reached the turn for Moraine Lake at 7:30 AM, the road was closed. Signs said the Moraine Lake parking lot was already full. Even the upper lot at Lake Louise was filling up fast, despite having to pay now.

Crowds had already gathered along the lake shore near the splendid Chateau Lake Louis when Lupe arrived. Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) was still as spectacular as ever beyond the turquoise lake.

**Mount Victoria** (Center) from **Lake Louise**. Photo looks SW.

Remember when we used to take the Plain of Six Glaciers trail all the way to the end to see the Death Trap, SPHP?

Of course, I do! So much fun, we did it twice! Even saw a wolverine once near the end of the day on the way back down to Lake Louise. Remember our biggest adventure here, though, Loop?

How could I forget Fairview Mountain, when I’m looking right at it, SPHP? The views of Mount Victoria, Mount Temple (11,614 ft.), and so many others were absolutely incredible from up there! We explored Saddle Mountain (7,963 ft.), too!

**Fairview Mountain** (L) and **Mount Victoria** (R) from **Lake Louise**. Photo looks SW.

It was a shame Moraine Lake was too crowded to visit, but continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, Lupe got to stop at beautiful Bow Lake, another jumping off region for several fabulous Dingo adventures once upon a time. Mount Jimmy Simpson was in sight beyond red-roofed Num-Ti-Jah Lodge from the picnic ground along the E shoe.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (Center) from **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

From over by the lodge, Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) and the Crowfoot Glacier were in sight to the SE. Bow Glacier Falls and the Bow Glacier above it were visible to the SW.

**Bow Peak** (L) and the **Crowfoot Glacier** (R) from **Bow Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Bow Glacier** and **Bow Glacier Falls** (Center) from **Bow Lake**. Photo looks SW.

Can we go to Bow Glacier Falls, SPHP? That’s an awesome trail!

I’d love to, Loopster, but think we should press on. How about we take the Parker Ridge trail, instead? Won’t take quite as long.

Parker Ridge (7,612 ft.) near the N end of Banff National Park was a bit of a drive yet. However, by 10:45 AM, Lupe was on the popular trail that switchbacks roughly 900 feet up to the crest of the ridge. A short distance beyond the crest she came to the fabulous scenic reward – a splendid view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

**Saskatchewan Glacier** (L) from **Parker Ridge**. Photo looks SW.

A fun off-trail jaunt on grassy slopes among minor rock formations up to Parker Ridge’s E high point provided an even more spectacular vantage point. Almost completely snow-clad Castleguard Mountain (10,098 ft.) was in sight across the canyon at the far upper end of the Saskatchewan Glacier. On this side of the canyon, both Hilda Peak (10,039 ft.) and mighty Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) were in view.

Heading for the **Parker Ridge E high point** (Center). Photo looks E.

At the **Parker Ridge E summit**. **Castleguard Mountain** and **Saskatchewan Glacier** (L), **Mount** **Athabasca** (R), **Hilda Peak** (far R). Photo looks WSW.

Zoomed in a little. **Castleguard Mountain** and **Saskatchewan Glacier** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Mount Saskatchewan (10,965 ft.) loomed in the distance beyond a long section of the North Saskatchewan River canyon visible below the lake at the toe of the glacier.

**Mount Saskatchewan** (far L), **Castleguard Mountain** and **Saskatchewan Glacier** (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Looking NW, Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in sight beyond Sunwapta Pass. Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.) stood out just N of the pass.

**Mount Athabasca** (L), **Hilda Peak** (beyond cairn), **Sunwapta Pass** and **Mount Wilcox** (beyond Lupe), **Nigel Peak** (R). Photo looks NW.

Tremendous views all around, but it was hard not to just keep coming back to that magnificent spectacle of the Saskatchewan Glacier!

**Castleguard Mountain** (L) and the **Saskatchewan Glacier** (L of Center) from **Parker Ridge**. Photo looks SW.

**Castleguard Mountain** and **Saskatchewan Glacier.** Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Parker Ridge was the big outing of the day, but far from the last scenic stop. Sunwapta Pass where Jasper National Park began was only a bit farther N, and just down the road from the pass the Athabasca Glacier was in view right from the highway. A must see!

**Mount Andromeda** (L) and the **Athabasca Glacier** (Center). Photo looks SW.

**Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The Athabasca Glacier was it for the day as far as glaciers. Continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, some incredible waterfalls were the new focus. Sunwapta Falls came first, followed by Athabasca Falls. Both were foaming gray torrents, thundering into narrow gorges below.

Between these falls, Lupe got to stop at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River. The American Dingo enjoyed a romp through the forest looking for squirrels, but didn’t see any.

**Athabasca River** from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground. Photo looks S.

**Mount Kerkeslin (9,698 ft.)** from **Athabasca Falls**. Photo looks SE.

After a quick refueling stop in Jasper, the RAV4 rolled on, taking Lupe W into British Columbia on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. The American Dingo got out briefly for a look at Moose Lake, and yet again for a pleasant trek down to Overlander Falls, where she scrambled among the rocks by the huge swirling whirlpool below it.

**Overlander Falls** in Mount Robson Provincial Park.

The evening ended on a gloomier note with Mount Robson (12,989 ft.), highest peak of the Canadian Rockies, shrouded in clouds and light rain.

At least we got to see Mount Robson before, SPHP. Remember when we went through the Valley of a Thousand Falls all the way to Berg Lake?

Yes! A fantastic trail, Looper. We ought to do that again someday.

8-3-22, 7:31 AM – Fog drifted among the mountains. Still overcast, gray clouds spit light rain. Good day for a long drive! Arriving fairly early, Lupe did get out of the RAV4 for a little while to visit Rearguard Falls, which she had all to herself this morning. Like all the other waterfalls Looper had been to yesterday, the sheer volume and power of the flow was overwhelming.

**Rearguard Falls** is the upper limit of the Fraser River’s Chinook salmon run.

On the elaborate boardwalk leading down to the falls.

Right next to **Rearguard Falls**, which is actually more like a big rapids.

**Rearguard Falls**. Both Rearguard and Overlander Falls are on the Fraser River.

By the **Fraser River** just upstream of Rearguard Falls.

The next stop came 1.5 hours later at the Goat River rest area, a favorite secluded spot on the way to Prince George. Without any signage, SPHP missed the turn, and had to go back.

Enjoying a sniff at the secluded **Goat River rest area**.

Along the **Goat River** near the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge.

Lupe’s final stop before Prince George was at the Ancient Forest. With time somewhat of the essence, the Carolina Dog did only the basic main loop, instead of the entire trail system as she’d done once before. That still allowed her to visit both Treebeard and the Radies Tree again, two enormous 1,000 year old western red cedars.

Lupe explored only the main loop (in green) today.

On the raised boardwalk near the start of the loop.

Among the ferns on the way to the upper part of the loop.

**Treebeard**, named after J.R.R Tolkien’s ent from middle earth.

With many miles to go, it could rain all day long, if it wanted to, which it did off and on. Lupe snoozed on her pink blanket most of the afternoon, occasionally opening an eye to gaze out the window. Going to Alaska! Could anything be more fun? The drive through the drizzle was so very scenic and soothing. A marvelous day!

8-3-22, 5:22 PM – The afternoon was about shot by the time Lupe reached her next stop of any significance. Can’t miss the dazzling flower gardens at Steelhead Park in the little town of Houston! An impressive variety of lilies seemed to be the specialty this year.

**Steelhead Park** in Houston, British Columbia.

Many other kinds of flowers and decorative plants were featured, too. Steelhead Park isn’t very big, so Lupe had time to visit nearly the entire collection. The only genuine disappointment was that the fountain still wasn’t working. It hadn’t been in 2019, either, the last time Loop was here, but had always been operational before then.

Wonder why they don’t fix it, SPHP? The fountain was always such a lovely centerpiece!

Lack of funds, I suppose, Looper. Seems a shame, doesn’t it?

8-3-22, 6:21 PM, Telkwa – The sky remained overcast as Lupe stood on a new sidewalk on a levee overlooking the Bulkley River.

**Bulkley River**, Telkwa, British Columbia.

Not much farther to Smithers now, Looper. We’ll be there soon.

Smithers! That’s where Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) is, SPHP! And the Babine Mountains, too. Remember Harvey Mountain, the Onions, and Astlais Mountain?

Sure do, Loop! Hope the weather clears up tomorrow! Been 5 days, and we’re nearly 1,800 miles from home now. That ought to be about enough driving for a while.

Oh, are we going to climb a mountain tomorrow, SPHP?

If the weather cooperates, Loopster. We’ll see.

On the way to Smithers, a small patch of blue appeared to the N, and the sky brightened to the W. At dusk in Driftwood Canyon, it almost looked like the whole sky was starting to clear, but it was hard to tell for sure.

Along the **Bulkley River**, Telkwa, British Columbia, Canada 8-3-22

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Smoke & Water – The Canadian Rockies to the Babine Mountains (8-7-18 & 8-8-18)

Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53°F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.). Yesterday she’d had the grand good fortune to make it to the summit, but mountain climbing wasn’t on the agenda today. This was a rest and travel day.

Not the kind of hurried, don’t stop for anything except restrooms, fuel, and food sort of travel. The Canadian Rockies are too wonderful for that! Although the American Dingo was going hundreds of miles, she would still have opportunities to stop at favorite places along the road.

So that was the plan. By the time Lupe reached Jasper National Park, though, the sky was uncharacteristically hazy. Smoke from distant forest fires dimmed normally crisp views of the mountains.

8-7-18, 9:09 AM, 58°F, Icefields Centre, Jasper National Park – Smoky, but not bad. SPHP stopped so Lupe could see one of the Canadian Rockies’ most amazing views from the highway, the Athabasca Glacier. The huge glacier, one of six major arms of the Columbia Icefield, has retreated a long way over the past century, but remains a must see, if one has any opportunity at all!

Of course, Lupe had seen the Athabasca Glacier before – a couple of times from an even more spectacular vantage point up by Wilcox Pass. Despite the smoke, the view from the highway was still absolutely worthwhile.

*The **Athabasca Glacier** is a must see attraction of the Canadian Rockies!* Photo looks SW.

**Mount Athabasca**, one of several splendid peaks near the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SSE.

**Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.)** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe and SPHP continued N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the smoky haze did not diminish. The smoke marred views of the mountains, but didn’t interfere with sights closer by. Waterfalls, rivers, and lakes were destined to become the focus for the day. Luckily, the Carolina Dog was going to go right past some great ones!

8-7-18, 9:57 AM, 62°F, Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park – The first big waterfall N of the Athabasca Glacier was Sunwapta Falls. The silt-laden Sunwapta River was running high. A torrent of light gray water swept by an upstream island then plunged into a narrow gorge immediately downstream.

Lupe checked out the impressive scene from both a bridge over the gorge, and a chain link fence at the very brink of the falls.

**Sunwapta Falls**. The **Sunwapta River** starts at Sunwapta Pass at the S end of Jasper National Park. Meltwaters from the Athabasca Glacier contribute to the flow.

*Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen **Sunwapta Falls** with such tremendous flow before!*

8-7-18, 10:28 AM, 68°F, Athabasca River, Jasper National Park – The Sunwapta River flows into the mighty Athabasca River. Athabasca Falls was going to be absolutely roaring today! Before Lupe got that far, though, SPHP stopped at the American Dingo’s favorite picnic ground on the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

This choice spot right along the Athabasca River was often completely vacant several years ago when Lupe first discovered it. For some reason there hadn’t been any signage for it along the highway. Signage was sadly present now, but since it was still a bit early for lunch, Lupe found her picnic ground delightfully quiet again this morning.

Loop enjoyed a stroll upstream along the Athabasca River, spent some time roaming the forest looking for squirrels to bark at, and even went wading along the river’s edge. Having skipped breakfast, SPHP had an early lunch at one of the tables overlooking the river, while catching up the trip journal.

*How’s this for a view from your picnic table? There’s always squirrels in the forest, too!*

*I’ll stay right by the edge here, SPHP, promise! I remember that giant waterfall downstream. Not going over that!* Loop in the **Athabasca River**.

8-7-18, 11:31 AM, 75°F, Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park – The turn to Athabasca Falls was only 5 miles N of the picnic ground. This close to noon on a lovely day in early August, Athabasca Falls was teeming with tourists. Justifiably so. Lupe and SPHP played tourist, too. It was a wait your turn at the viewpoints situation, but totally worth it.

Lupe liked all the activity! People smiled at her, children petted her, plenty of other doggie tourists were available to sniff with, and, of course, there was that enormously powerful waterfall to admire.

*Even if you have to wait in line, just do it! **Athabasca Falls** is so impressive!*

**Athabasca Falls** is 20 miles S of Jasper just off Icefields Parkway Highway 93.

8-7-18, 1:07 PM, Yellowhead Pass – The morning had flown by. After a stop for fuel in Jasper, SPHP drove W on Yellowhead Hwy 16. Only 21 miles to the British Columbia border at Yellowhead Pass (3,760 ft.).

SPHP stopped here briefly, so Loop could stretch her legs. A small lake, Portal Lake, was nearby. A sign said there was a 20 minute return trail along Portal Lake, but Lupe didn’t take it. Greater sights were ahead.

Lupe reaches **British Colombia** at **Yellowhead Pass**.

By **Portal Lake** at **Yellowhead Pass**.

8-7-18, 1:38 PM, 72°F, Moose Lake – At the British Columbia border, Lupe also entered Mount Robson Provincial Park. Continuing W on Hwy 16, SPHP expected the sky to clear any time now, but instead the smoke was getting thicker. By the time Lupe made it to Moose Lake, it was hard to see the mountains at all.

Fortunately, there were 2 more big waterfalls ahead to look forward to along the Fraser River.

At Yellowhead Pass, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.

*Well, here we are at beautiful **Moose Lake** along Hwy 16, but it’s smokier than ever!*

8-7-18, 1:58 PM, 75°F, Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The first waterfall on the Fraser River was Overlander Falls. A trailhead was right along Hwy 16 just a mile or so before the Mount Robson Park visitor center. Lupe took a shady 10 minute trail from Hwy 16 down a series of switchbacks to the gorgeous waterfall.

Overlander Falls was only 30 feet high, but the Fraser River gushing through a narrow gap and dropping into a huge swirling pool of pale blue-green waters was an amazing sight. While relaxing by Overlander Falls, Lupe wound up making a new friend from Saskatchewan.

*10 minutes on this lovely trail will get us down to Overlander Falls!*

**Overlander Falls** is the uppermost of 2 major waterfalls on the **Fraser River**.

**Overlander Falls** isn’t as big as Sunwapta Falls or Athabasca Falls, but the color of the water and this big swirling pool are simply amazing!

*There’s always time for love and new friends!*

8-7-18, 3:16 PM, 78°F, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park – The second major waterfall along the Fraser River was only 10 miles from Overlander Falls. Rearguard Falls has its own provincial park! Once again, Lupe took a 10 or 15 minute trail from a trailhead right along Hwy 16 down to the waterfall.

Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as high as Overlander Falls, almost more of a giant rapids than a waterfall, but the breadth and strength of the water surging over it was also impressive. A sign up by the parking lot said Rearguard Falls was as far up the Fraser River as salmon were able to make it.

*Here’s the plan, SPHP! When we get down to the falls, I’ll race in and snag us one of the big salmon leaping out of the river, while you fight off the bears. Ready? Let’s do this!*

*I can almost taste that big delicious salmon already! Come on, it’s this way!*

A first glimpse of **Rearguard Falls** from the trail.

*How’s this for a snazzy walkway setup? We’re almost to Rearguard Falls now.*

**Rearguard Falls**. The air was still smoky, but the **Fraser River** was simply gorgeous!

**Rearguard Falls** on the Fraser River.

*So beautiful! Kind of a shame there aren’t any salmon here today, though. I was really looking forward to seeing SPHP fend off the grizzly bears, while I nabbed us dinner!*

8-7-18, 5:06 PM, Goat River, British Columbia – After leaving Rearguard Falls, it hadn’t been much farther to the junction with Yellowhead South Hwy 5. Nearly all the traffic went that way, heading for Kamloops. Lupe and SPHP stayed on Yellowhead Hwy 16 going NW following the wide Fraser River valley.

The Fraser River was seldom in view, but this was now a most relaxing drive with virtually no traffic. Loopster was well past McBride, the only community of any significant size, when, after crossing a bridge, a short side road led down to a rest area and picnic ground by the Goat River. This was a beautiful spot Lupe had been to once before in 2016.

It wasn’t quite time to eat yet, but the Carolina Dog was happy making a brief exploration along the river.

Lupe enjoys a drink from the **Goat River.**

The **Goat River** was considerably higher than when Lupe had stopped here in 2016.

The Goat River was a nice break, but the last one of the day. The long drive continued. Lupe went through Prince George (86°F!) and beyond, still on Yellowhead Hwy 16. The whole day, for hundreds of miles, had been smoky. If anything, the smoke was getting worse.

8-7-18, 8:43 PM, 67°F, Dry Williams Lake – Beyond Fort Fraser a pinkish-red sun sank into the murk. An eerie twilight developed. The smoke was bad. Nevertheless, time to call it a day. A rest area appeared a few miles farther on at Dry Williams Lake. This would do nicely! There were picnic tables, and a mowed area where the American Dingo could romp with a view of the lake.

Lupe had gone a long way today. The day’s highlights had all involved water in some form – a glacier, waterfalls, rivers and lakes. Smoke had increasingly spoiled the mountain views, but it couldn’t last forever, could it? After dinner (not fresh salmon unfortunately), the Carolina Dog curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets to snooze and dream of crystal blue skies tomorrow.

8-8-18, 6:45 AM, 54°F, Dry Williams Lake – The sun rose as it had sunk last night, oddly colored from a murky sea of smoke where a horizon should have been. Any dreams of crystal blue skies were apparently just that – dreams. The forest fires must not be terribly far away. The G6 was covered with a layer of ash. A short stroll around the rest area to let Lupe do some sniffing, then it was time to hit the road again.

Lupe had barely left Dry Williams Lake, when upon rounding a bend in the road, a patch of blue sky was visible to the N. The end of the smoke! Conditions improved steadily. Crystal blue skies weren’t a mere dream! It took an hour and a half to drive completely out of the smoke. By then it wasn’t much farther to Houston.

A stop in Houston is traditional, perhaps even mandatory. Lupe always visits Houston’s lovely Steelhead Park. Hwy 16 goes right past it. Loop wasn’t about to miss out on Steelhead Park on this crystal blue summer day, a dream come true!

**Steelhead Park** in Houston is a piece of paradise! Come on, let’s go sniffing around. The sniffing is fantastic here!

**Steelhead Park** is supposed to be in honor of steelhead fishing, which Houston is famous for, but for me, it’s all about the flowers.

**Steelhead Park**, Houston, British Columbia

*Kind of bright out with the smoke gone.*

*Why, it’s a Dingo god! It’s OK, though, if you just keep worshiping me, SPHP!*

*There’s the steelhead pond, over there.*

*Hey, SPHP! Here’s our big chance! Not a bear in sight. I’ll go nab us a steelhead from the pond.*

*Too late! Not a single one left! Wonder if the city of Houston knows all their steelheads are gone? Either bears got ’em or people bought ’em. The pond is full of coins.*

Steelhead Park was a lovely break from the road. Lupe had a fun time sniffing among the brilliant flowers. Adventure was calling, though.

Lupe and SPHP left Steelhead Park at 9:45 AM. Less than 2 hours later, the Carolina Dog was standing on Babine Lake Road E of Smithers with her next big adventure in sight.