Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 88 – Little Devil’s Tower & Harney Peak (5-17-14)

Every year on the weekend before Memorial Day weekend in May, South Dakota holds an open house at all state parks to kick off the summer tourist season.  Admission to the parks is free, although normal campground fees still apply.  SPHP decided Lupe should take advantage of this chance to do some peakbagging of some of the higher peaks in the Custer State Park region without having to pay an entrance fee.

Lupe’s peakbagging efforts started at the Little Devils Tower trailhead along Hwy 87 (Needles Highway) less than a mile SE of Sylvan Lake (10:44 AM, 45°F).  Lupe had four peakbagging goals – Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), Peak 6920, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), and Peak 6735.  Only Little Devils Tower was actually in Custer State Park, but the others were all relatively close by.  SPHP thought they could all be easily approached from this location.

Lupe and SPHP left the trailhead taking Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4.  The trail entered the forest, soon crossed a small creek, and then started a gentle climb NE up a valley.  As the trail gained elevation, it entered more open terrain.  The forest had been virtually clear cut along in here due to heavy damage from pine bark beetles.  Big granite rock formations were scattered along the sides of the valley.

Slowly the trail became steeper, eventually reaching the crest of a ridge about 0.75 mile from the trailhead.  From the ridge, Lupe could see the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) close by to the E.  A well marked spur trail went NNW to the summit of Little Devils Tower.  Lupe and SPHP took the spur trail, which climbed a little bit and then followed a fairly level ridgeline.

Lupe enjoys a great view of a portion of the Cathedral Spires from a high point on the ridge the spur trail follows to Little Devil's Tower. Photo looks E.
Lupe enjoys a great view of a portion of the Cathedral Spires from a high point on the ridge the spur trail follows to Little Devils Tower. Photo looks E.
Looking NE from a high point near the start of the spur trail to Little Devils Tower.
Looking NE from a high point near the start of the spur trail to Little Devils Tower.

After less than 0.25 mile, the spur trail lost a little elevation as it descended into a ravine coming up from the SW.  The bottom of the ravine rose steeply to meet the spur trail, which turned N to climb straight up a badly eroding stretch of loose rocks.  Fortunately, the climb up the loose rocks wasn’t a long one.  It ended at a little pass between big granite rock formations.

From here on, the rest of the way up to the summit of Little Devils Tower was a scramble on the granite.  At the little pass, the trail turned sharply W (L) going up a narrow cleft in the rock.  Beyond the cleft, things opened up a bit.  Blue and white arrows painted on the granite marked the trail.  The scramble wasn’t hard, and featured only minor exposure.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived up on top of Little Devils Tower, no one else was around.  A steady stream of people and dogs could be heard on the way, though.  Lupe’s solitude wasn’t going to last long.

Lupe arrives at the summit of Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.). Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) is seen in the background R of Center. One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view, was that there was no way Lupe was going to be able to climb Peak 6920, the huge near vertical granite formation seen above Lupe's head. Peak 6920 was to have been one of Lupe's peakbagging goals, but unless she charters a helicopter, it ain't gonna happen! Photo looks N.
Lupe arrives at the summit of Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.)! Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) is seen in the background R of Center. One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view, was that there was no way Lupe was going to be able to climb Peak 6920, the huge near vertical granite formation seen above Lupe’s head. Peak 6920 was to have been one of Lupe’s peakbagging goals, but unless she charters a helicopter, it ain’t gonna happen! Photo looks N.
An intrepid Carolina Dog strikes a dramatic pose atop Little Devils Tower. Harney Peak, the highest mountain of the Black Hills range, and the highest point in South Dakota, looms in the distance. Photo looks N.
An intrepid Carolina Dog strikes a dramatic pose atop Little Devils Tower. Harney Peak, the highest mountain of the Black Hills range, and the highest point in South Dakota, looms in the distance. Photo looks N.

The views were great up on Little Devils Tower!  The summit area was fairly large and divided into a couple of big sections of uneven granite that were fun to explore.  It was no place for unwatched small children, however.  The summit area was nearly surrounded by cliffs.  SPHP kept a close eye on Lupe as she sniffed around exploring.  By moving around the summit a bit, it was possible to get a tremendous open view in any direction one wanted.

One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view to the N toward Harney Peak, was that Lupe was not going to be able to achieve one of her peakbagging objectives.  Peak 6920 could be seen between Little Devils Tower and Harney Peak.  It was a huge granite formation with near vertical sides in every direction.  No way Lupe and SPHP could get up there without a helicopter.

The Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks SE.
The Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks SE.
Looking S toward Mt. Coolidge (6,023 ft.).
Looking S toward Mt. Coolidge (6,023 ft.).
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the long high ridge in the background. Photo looks WSW.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the long high ridge in the background. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe and SPHP lingered for a while up on top of Little Devils Tower.  A steady parade of people and dogs came and went.  Even small children were making the climb, with a little assistance from parents and siblings.  Although the solitude was broken, the wonderful views made it fun to stick around up on top for a while.  SPHP chatted pleasantly with some of the other hikers.  Lupe sniffed with the dogs, although she sometimes forgot her manners and growled.

A steady stream of people and dogs came and went. The summit area on Little Devils Tower was large enough so they could be mostly avoided, if one wanted to. Photo looks N.
A steady stream of people and dogs came and went. The summit area on Little Devils Tower was large enough so they could be mostly avoided, if one wanted to. Photo looks N.
Another look at the Cathedral Spires. Photo looks SE.
Another look at the Cathedral Spires. Photo looks SE.

Eventually, it was time to move on.  Lupe returned to the main Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 via the spur trail.  She followed it NE past a junction with Cathedral Spires Trail No. 4A, which she did not take.  Trail No. 4 went around the W end of the Cathedral Spires, and then turned E on the N side of them.

Since SPHP had seen from Little Devils Tower that Lupe wasn’t going to be able to climb Peak 6920, her next peakbagging goal was Harney Peak (7,242 ft.).  On the way to Harney, SPHP kept an eye out toward the SE searching for Peak 6735, to see what Lupe’s chances of climbing it might be like.

After skirting the N side of the Cathedral Spires for a little way, Trail No. 4 turned NE and then N.  Trail No. 4 ended where it reached a junction with Norbeck Trail No. 3, which came up from the SE.  Lupe continued N on Norbeck Trail No. 3.  SPHP started seeing views of Peak 6735 off to the SE.

The views weren’t very encouraging.  While Peak 6735 was only a little over a mile away, and looked like it should be climbable for Lupe, the intervening terrain looked very rugged with lots of elevation change and big rock formations.  Even more daunting, the forest looked almost totally dead, ravaged by pine bark beetles.  Getting to Peak 6735 would take a long time.  Lupe was certain to encounter huge amounts of deadfall timber along the way.

Trail No. 4 led to Trail No. 9, a spur of which goes all the way up to the top of Harney Peak.  Near the very end of the climb, a metal stairway spirals up a cleft in the granite.  Lupe did not like the metal stairway, because she could see through it down to the ground below.  SPHP had to carry the nervous Carolina Dog up the stairs.

At the top of Harney Peak, Lupe and SPHP stopped for only a few minutes at the lookout tower’s observation deck.  As the highest point in the Black Hills and the state of South Dakota, Harney Peak is a popular destination.  The lookout tower and observation deck were busy with people enjoying the fabulous 360° views, certainly among the best anywhere in the Black Hills.

To the W of Harney’s summit is a huge granite shoulder of the mountain.  This shoulder is only slightly lower, offers essentially the same terrific views in most directions, and is less crowded.  Lupe and SPHP retreated from the observation deck to the exit from the lookout tower’s basement, and headed over there.  SPHP took in the views, while Lupe engaged in the fascinating sport of chipmunk watching.

Lupe's attention is focused on chipmunks scampering around the W granite shoulder of Harney Peak. Photo looks E back toward the lookout tower and observation deck at the summit.
Lupe’s attention is focused on chipmunks scampering around the W granite shoulder of Harney Peak. Photo looks E back toward the lookout tower and observation deck at the summit.

Lupe on Harney Peak, 5-17-14

Lupe and SPHP stayed out on the W shoulder of Harney Peak for half an hour.  Lupe never tired of the chipmunks, but did divert her attention from them for a little while when SPHP brought chocolate oatmeal cookies out of the backpack.

The cookie monster Dingo inquires of SPHP as to the state of the chocolate oatmeal cookie supply.
The cookie monster Dingo inquires of SPHP as to the state of the chocolate oatmeal cookie supply.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Harney Peak (7,241 ft.). Photo looks S.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) summit from the W shoulder of the mountain. Photo looks E.
Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) summit from the W shoulder of the mountain. Photo looks E.

When it was time to press on, Lupe and SPHP returned briefly to the lookout tower and observation deck.  After a few photos from the top, Lupe started down the stone steps to the spiral metal stairway, where SPHP had to carry her again to the bottom of the metal stairs.

Looking SE from the lookout tower. Peak 6735 is in view just L of the narrow rock ridge protruding from Harney.
Looking SE from the lookout tower. Peak 6735 is in view just L of the narrow rock ridge protruding from Harney.
Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) (L) and unclimbable (for Lupe and SPHP) Peak 6920 (R) from the top of Harney. Photo looks S.
Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) (L) and unclimbable (for Lupe and SPHP) Peak 6920 (R) from the top of Harney. Photo looks SSW.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). Phot looks S.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). Photo looks S.

On Trail No. 9 going down Harney, Lupe came to a big rock platform extending a little to the SE from the trail.  The platform provided a great view of Peak 6735.  Although Peak 6735 was supposed to have been one of Lupe’s peakbagging goals, a good look at all the rugged terrain and deadfall timber Lupe would have to cross to get there made SPHP decide that maybe today wasn’t the day to tackle Peak 6735.

Peak 6735 is seen directly above Lupe's head. Photo looks SE from near Trail No. 9 on the way down Harney Peak.
Peak 6735 is seen directly above Lupe’s head. Photo looks SE from near Trail No. 9 on the way down Harney Peak.
Peak 6735. Photo looks SE.
Peak 6735. Photo looks SE.

Lupe returned to the Little Devils Tower trailhead via the same route she had taken to Harney Peak –  Trails No. 9, No. 3, and then No. 4.  She was back at the G6 at 4:37 PM (59°F).  Although Lupe hadn’t climbed Peak 6920 or Peak 6735, there was still time in the day to climb another high peak in the area.  Lupe went on to climb Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) for a glorious finish to her day in the hills – but that’s another post!

Less than a month later, Lupe did climb Peak 6735 on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 92 on 6-9-14.
Less than a month later, Lupe did climb Peak 6735 on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 92 (6-9-14).

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Black Hills Expeditions Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 131 – Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls) & Little Devil’s Tower (5-30-15)

May, 2015 has been a wonderful month for the Black Hills of South Dakota.  After a very dry start to the year, May brought snow and rain in abundance.  Now everything is greening up, looking beautiful and the lakes and streams are full of water.  Lupe, however, has been rather bored much of May.  The wet weather prevented her from getting out like she is used to.  This day, however, promised to be clear, bright and perfect for a long day in the hills.

SPHP chose Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), the highest mountain in the Black Hills as Lupe’s primary goal for the day, with a side trip to Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.) afterwards.  SPHP made this choice for three reasons: (1) it’s always fun to climb the highest mountain around, (2) the 360° views from Harney are hard to beat in the Black Hills, and (3) time may be running out to climb Harney Peak again before the name gets changed to Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls).  Lupe cares not one whit about the name of the mountain, she was just excited to be going out on an adventure again.

SPHP parked the G6 at the Willow Creek trailhead (accessed from Hwy 244 about 5 miles NW of Mt. Rushmore near the Palmer Gulch KOA) at 8:51 AM.  At 47 °F, it was still a bit cool out, but the skies were almost completely cloudless and a brilliant blue.  It would warm up fast.  The trail up to Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls) from the Willow Creek trailhead is longer than the most popular route, which starts at Sylvan Lake, but Lupe would encounter far fewer people and there are some great lookout points along the way.

Lupe near Willow Creek Trail No. 8 approaching Elkhorn Mountain.

Lupe took the portion of Trail No. 8 that is closest to Hwy 244 to Trail No. 9.  She followed Trail No. 9 past Elkhorn Mountain and then all the way up to the summit of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls).  She only saw 3 people and 1 dog (by the name of “Doc”) the entire way until reaching the short spur on Trail No. 9 that goes up to the to the top of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls).

Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls) from near Trail No. 9 which ultimately leads to the summit.
Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls) from near Trail No. 9 which ultimately leads to the summit.
As Trail No. 9 rises to about the level of Elkhorn Mountain, there are lots of lookout points like this one along the way. This photo looks S.
As Trail No. 9 rises to about the level of Elkhorn Mountain, there are lots of lookout points like this one along the way. This photo looks S.

[Note:  SPHP sincerely hopes that (Making of Owls) gets dropped from the official name if Hinhan Kaga is adopted.  Nothing says this name was created by a board of bureaucrats as much as an official 5 word name in two different languages including a pair of parenthesis!  Tired of typing all that already.  Better to let the meaning of Hinhan Kaga go unknown to those who don’t have any interest in googling it, than to adopt such an unwieldy name.  SPHP is setting an example and dropping (Making of Owls) here and now.]

Peakbagger fans, that's Peak 6735 in the distance.
Peakbagger fans, that’s Peak 6735 in the distance.
Looking SE now. The square block of rock on the left in the distance is the back side of Mt. Rushmore.
Looking SE now. The square block of rock on the left in the distance is the back side of Mt. Rushmore (5,725 ft.) .  (Not the rock at the very left, but the larger one beyond and a bit to the right.)
Now looking W. Gap Lode Peak is shown in the right half of this shot. The closer, higher stuff is part of the N slope of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Now looking W.  Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.) is shown in the center of the right half of this shot. The closer, higher stuff on the left is part of the N slope of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Lupe in the flat rocks area. These photos are all from the portion of the Harney Peak Trail No. 9 that is NE of Harney Peak. This is a longer approach to the summit than taking this same Trail No. 9 from the W at Sylvan Lake, which is the shorter and most popular route.
Lupe in the flat rocks area. These photos are all from the portion of the Harney Peak Trail No. 9 that is NE of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga. This is a longer approach to the summit than taking this same Trail No. 9 from the W at Sylvan Lake, which is the shorter and most popular route.
Lupe still in the flat rocks area. This photo is looking WSW towards Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Lupe still in the flat rocks area. This photo is looking WSW towards Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Peak 6735 from a bit higher now.
Peak 6735 from a bit higher now.  Lupe enjoyed drinking out of the water holes in the granite.
Gaining elevation, Lupe is now getting close to the No. 9 spur trail to the summit. Looking ESE from here. The back side of Mt. Rushmore is visible again.

However, hordes of people and dogs were coming up the portion of Trail No. 9 that comes up from Sylvan Lake.  The last spur of Trail No. 9 to the top of Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga was just plain crowded.  Everyone was in good spirits, though, and having a good time.  After Lupe reached the lookout tower, Lupe and SPHP went down over to the far end of the massive granite W shoulder of the mountain.

Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga lookout tower at the summit. Lupe has already been there by now. Lupe’s 5th successful climb of the mountain!
The little reservoir on Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
The little reservoir on Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
A happy Carolina dog or American Dingo on Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
A happy Carolina dog or American Dingo on Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Looking S towards Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil's Tower (R) from Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.
Looking S towards Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil’s Tower (R) which all look like part of the same ridge in this shot from Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.  Little Devil’s Tower is where Lupe was headed next passing close by the Cathedral Spires on the way.

There, Lupe had some Taste of the Wild and water.  She tried laying down to rest, but the granite wasn’t very comfy – in fact, not comfy at all.  She wanted to chase chipmunks, but SPHP wouldn’t allow that with cliffs all around.  Lupe posed for a few pictures and watched chipmunks.  The views were magnificent, and SPHP stayed admiring them for some time.  SPHP chatted with 3 geology students and took pictures of the 3 of them together when asked.  Then, with Little Devil’s Tower still on the itinerary, it was time to move on.

Heading back down Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga on Trail No. 9 heading towards Sylvan Lake is this view of Peak 6735 to the S.
Soon after starting back down Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga on Trail No. 9 towards Sylvan Lake is this view of Peak 6735 to the S.  Crazy SPHP wanted to climb Peak 6735 this day too, but there wasn’t time.  Lupe and SPHP have been there once before though.  There is no trail, but there are a million beetle-killed pine trees to climb over, under, around or through to get there.  Very time consuming!
Approaching the Cathedral Spires. SPHP forgets if this is part of Trail No. 3 or No. 4.
Approaching the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). SPHP forgets if this is part of Trail No. 3 or No. 4.
American Dingo Lupe spotted near Cathedral Spires! Little Devil's Tower is o the right.
American Dingo Lupe spotted near Cathedral Spires! Little Devil’s Tower is the big rock farthest to the right still a little way off.
Lupe above Trail No. 4 near its junction with the Cathedral Spires Trail.
Lupe above Trail No. 4 near its junction with the Cathedral Spires Trail.

From Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, Lupe and SPHP went back down the spur trail to the rest of Trail No. 9 and started following it towards Sylvan Lake.  Before long Lupe reached the junction with Trail No. 3 and took it.  Trail No. 3 led to Trail No. 4 and then to the Little Devil’s Tower trail.  Lupe saw only a few people on Trails No. 3 & 4.  It was a different story on the Little Devil’s Tower trail.  Even a two year old girl was clambering up Little Devil’s Tower.  At the summit, Lupe and SPHP were never alone for more than a minute or two, but at least there weren’t so many people as up at Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.

Lupe's 3rd successful summit of Little Devil's Tower. This photo looks N back at Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, where she had just come from.
Lupe’s 3rd successful summit of Little Devil’s Tower. This photo looks N back at Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, where she had just come from.
Cathedral Spires from Little Devil's Tower. The last bit of climb up Little Devil's Tower is a rock scramble that isn't too hard. A two year old girl was making her way up the mountain with help over the tough spots.
Cathedral Spires from Little Devil’s Tower. The last bit of climb up Little Devil’s Tower is a rock scramble that isn’t too hard. A two year old girl was making her way up the mountain with help over the tough spots.
The beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota as seen looking NW from Little Devil's Tower.
The beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota as seen looking NW from Little Devil’s Tower.
One mighty fine looking Loopster up on Little Devil's Tower.
Pretty girl Loopster up on Little Devil’s Tower.

The views from Little Devil’s Tower are almost as grand as those from Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga.  Lupe posed for some more photos.  She finished off the rest of the Taste of the Wild.  She wanted to chase chipmunks again, but the summit area is considerably smaller than up at Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, and cliffs were close at hand in almost all directions.  Lupe again had to settle for chipmunk watching while SPHP gazed out at the Black Hills.

When it was time to go, Lupe retraced the trail taken to Little Devil’s Tower as far back as Trail No. 9.  There Lupe and SPHP took Trail No. 9 heading down towards Sylvan Lake.  Lupe followed Trail No. 9 only as far as the intersection with the Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 spur trail for horses.  Lupe and SPHP had never been on this spur trail for horses before.  No one else was on it.  The path looked seldom used by people or horses.  It wound through some very scenic large granite formations and offered up pretty nice views of Little Devil’s Tower in places.  Most of the way it was close to the upper reaches of Palmer Creek, too.  With all the recent rains, Palmer Creek had good flow in it.  Lupe could have a drink whenever she wanted.

On her way back now to the G6. Lupe on Trail No. 9 not far from the junction with the Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 horse spur. Little Devil’s Tower in the background.
Little Devil's Tower is at the left. This view was taken from the Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 horse spur.
Little Devil’s Tower is at the left. This view was taken from the Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 horse spur.
Lupe in Palmer Creek.
Lupe wading in Palmer Creek.

The spur trail went about a mile before reaching the main Lost Cabin Trail No. 2. Lupe followed the main Trail No. 2 for miles back to a junction with Trail No. 8 a short distance from the Willow Creek trailhead.  The sun was already behind the hills by the time Lupe reached the G6 again.  It was 8:09 PM and 58 °F.  Lupe had been gone for over 11 hours.  She had made a huge loop around Harney Peak or Hinhan Kaga, plus taken side trips up to the summit of it and Little Devil’s Tower.  Although SPHP was feeling the effects of the outing, Lupe was still full of energy.  She stood up with her nose out the window of the G6 sniffing the air most of the way home.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                  Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Black Hills Expeditions Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.