To the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River (8-10-12)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

Lupe was somersaulting again against the door of her “tiny house”.  She still hadn’t figured out that she couldn’t go through the tent door when it was zipped shut, but it had only been her second night ever in a tent.  A squirrel was chattering away in a tree outside.  Lupe wanted to go bark at it, but it was very early.  Lanis was still asleep in the Honda Element, after his gear got soaked in a sudden downpour the previous evening.

Lanis isn’t much of a morning person.  SPHP figured he would sleep for several more hours.  This was an opportunity for Lupe to return to Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP had climbed Bald Mountain the evening before, only to be almost immediately chased off of it by a brief intense rain shower.  It wasn’t going to rain now, though.  Lupe and SPHP left the squirrel and the campground in peace, and climbed Bald Mountain again.

After searching around on top of the mountain, SPHP had almost given up.  Then, suddenly, there they were.  Lupe had found the names that had been up there for a quarter century or more now.  The names were just made out of loose rocks, but they were still easily recognizable.  SPHP spent a little time repairing them.

SPHP wanted to add Lupe’s name to the mountain, but so much time had been lost looking around, it was probably best to get back down to the campground before Lanis awoke to find himself alone.  It would take too much time to search around for some rocks to use.  So Lupe and SPHP went down Bald Mountain enjoying the panoramic views, sunshine and fresh air.

(Just 11 months later, Lupe returned to spend a night on Bald Mountain and SPHP added her name then.)

SPHP needn’t have worried.  Lanis was still sound asleep when Lupe returned.  After having been responsible for getting Lanis’ gear wet the night before, SPHP wasn’t eager to further aggravate him by waking him up.  Lupe and SPHP stayed busy in camp.  Lanis eventually came to on his own.  He was in a better mood than when he’d gone to sleep in the Element.

It was time for Lupe to leave the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming and head farther W.  The sun was much higher now.  Lanis and SPHP dried things out while Lupe sniffed around.  Pretty soon things were dry enough to pack them back in the Honda Element, and Lupe, Lanis and SPHP were underway.

Lanis drove W out of the Bighorns on steep, windy Hwy 14A.  The route continued through Lovell, Powell and Cody, WY.  From Cody, Lupe went N on Hwy 120 to Hwy 296, the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.  The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway lived up to its name.  The road wound high up over a lofty pass.  At a pullout on the W side of the pass, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP got out for a look.

View from the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. Photo looks W from the pullout near the pass.
View from the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. Photo looks W from the pullout near the pass.

The view was most impressive, but there was a chilly wind.  It looked rather stormy on the W side of the pass.  Lupe hadn’t been at the pullout long when a cold rain began to fall.  American Dingoes do have the good sense to come in out of the rain.  Lanis and SPHP quickly joined Lupe in the Honda Element.  Lupe’s journey continued down the winding highway on the W side of the pass.

The rain eventually stopped, but it was still pretty cloudy out.  The St. Joseph Scenic Byway led to the Beartooth Hwy (No. 212).  The Beartooth Highway goes NE over spectacular Beartooth Pass on its way to Red Lodge, MT, but Lupe wasn’t going that way yet.  Instead Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed W on the Beartooth Highway toward Cooke City, MT.

A side road off the St. Joseph Scenic Byway. The rain had stopped, but it was still pretty cloudy out.
A side road off the St. Joseph Scenic Byway. The rain had stopped, but it was still pretty cloudy out.

Lanis and SPHP were looking for a campsite along the way.  There were some campgrounds, but SPHP was picky and found nothing that looked quite right before reaching Cooke City, MT.  Along the way, Montana became the 3rd U.S. Lupe state!

Cooke City, MT is basically a one street tourist town strategically situated 5 miles from the NE entrance to Yellowstone National Park.  After looking around town just a little bit, it was time to get more serious about finding a campsite.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed back E on the Beartooth Hwy.  This time Lanis was driving slower to allow for a more complete reconnaissance of the possibilities.

Not long after entering Wyoming again, Lanis and SPHP saw a turn to a little parking lot just N of the highway.  A pickup truck with a camper was parked there close to a bend in a very beautiful river just 200 feet from the highway.   It looked like a great dispersed camping site.  Lanis pulled in off the highway.  Everyone piled out of the Element to check things out.

This bend in the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone River, became home base for Lupe, Lanis & SPHP during Lupe's stay in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation. Photo looks NW toward Pilot Peak (L) and Index Peak (R).
This bend in the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River, became home base for Lupe, Lanis & SPHP during Lupe’s stay in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation. Photo looks NW toward Pilot Peak (L) and Index Peak (R).
This small waterfall or rapid was just downstream of the bend in the river.
This small waterfall or rapid was just downstream of the bend in the river.
Lanis is liking what he sees.
Lanis is liking what he sees.

Unknown to Lupe, Lanis and SPHP at the time, the river was the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone.  This gorgeous site would become home base for the entire time Lupe spent in the Beartooths on her 2012 Dingo Vacation.  The bend in the river offered a terrific view of the dramatic spire of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and its neighbor Index Peak (11,240 ft.) to the NW.  Just downstream of the bend, was a small waterfall or rapid with a nice pool of clear, cold water below it.

The reconnaissance downstream quickly met with the approval of Lupe, Lanis and SPHP.  A walk upstream through a wooded area to a field next to the river followed.  After being cooped up in the Honda Element a good part of the day, Lupe was so stirred up by the wild river and glorious surroundings, she got a crazed look in her eye.  She pranced and growled and demonstrated just how ferociously prepared American Dingoes are for life in the wilderness.

Lanis has an eye for detail and took this shot of some mossy lichens growing on a rotting log near the river.
Lanis has an eye for detail and took this shot of some mossy lichens growing on a rotting log near the river.
Squirrels, schmirrels! Lupe feeling ready to take on elk, moose, grizzly bears and anything else the Beartooths can throw at her!
Squirrels, schmirrels! Lupe feeling ready to take on elk, moose, grizzly bears and anything else the Beartooths can throw at her!
And then I'll crack their bones like this!
And then I’ll crack their bones like this!

Returning to the bend in the river, SPHP had a chat with the other campers there, who already occupied the best site right next to the river.  They told SPHP about a waterfall worth seeing just a mile or two to the E.  The falls were up a short trail on the N side of the Beartooth Hwy.  Why not check that out, too?  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP hopped back in the Element to go find the waterfall.

As promised, a short, but steep hike up a trail led to a roaring torrent on Crazy Creek.  The stream was strewn with logs.  The falls were large, but this wasn’t really a classic straight down over an edge type of waterfall.  It was too steep to be just rapids either.  A better name is Crazy Creek Cascade.  Lupe,  Lanis and SPHP followed the trail all the way up to the top of the falls.

 

Crazy Creek Cascade. This waterfall was up a short, but steep climb N of the Beartooth Hwy.
Crazy Creek Cascade. This waterfall was up a short, but steep climb N of the Beartooth Hwy.
Lupe at Crazy Creek just above the big cascade.
Lupe at Crazy Creek just above the big cascade.
Lanis at Crazy Creek.
Lanis at Crazy Creek.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP played around on the rocks next to Crazy Creek just above the cascade until it started getting dark.  Time to head back to the Element, and the great campsite on the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone.

When Lupe returned, the sky was still overcast.  In fact, the clouds were darker and denser than before.  It looked like it would almost certainly rain overnight.  It didn’t seem to make any sense to set up the tent, which would surely leak if it rained hard enough.  Lanis was going to have company in the Element tonight.  Outside the rain began.

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Camped on the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River (7-11-13)

Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation was off to a great start!  On her first day (7-10-13) she had been to the Elysian Fields of Puppy Happiness and spent the night on Bald Mountain in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming.

It had been quite a memorable evening for Lupe sleeping under the stars on Bald Mountain.   “Sleeping” is used loosely here.  At first there was some sleeping going on, but a few hours into the night, SPHP woke up suddenly to the sound of Lupe sprinting away to the W in the darkness.  She was after something, but what it might have been SPHP had no clue.  Before long she came back without being called.

Lupe just E of Bald Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, WY
Lupe just E of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.), Bighorn Mountains, WY on 7-10-11.  The summit is kind of faded out on the left.

SPHP managed to get Lupe in her blankie and sleeping bag again, but from then on Lupe and SPHP slept fitfully.  SPHP awoke many times to hear Lupe wandering off into the night sniffing around.  Sometimes she was gone for 5 minutes or a bit more, but she always came back.  Still, SPHP spent long stretches awake, peering and listening into the darkness for the tinkling sound of the tag on Lupe’s collar.

The Milky Way above was magnificent.  Three shooting stars streaked across the night sky.  A breeze started up and blew all night.  Initially it seemed to be from the E, but as the night wore on, it blew harder and more from the S.

But I'm not sleepy!!!!
But I’m not sleepy!!!!

Sometimes Lupe came around to just sit next to SPHP out of her sleeping bag.  She wanted to be petted while she stared into the blackness listening and watching.  SPHP always did pet her.  Often SPHP managed to persuade Lupe to get back into her sleeping bag and under her blankie again.  That would last for a little while and then she would be off running and sniffing again.  It was the first time Lupe and SPHP ever slept together without a tent under the stars in the wild.  Lupe was just too stimulated and excited to sleep much.

Lupe and SPHP got up when the sun was just getting up.  It was gorgeous out except for the strong S breeze.   SPHP added Lupe’s name to the place of names.  Then Lupe and SPHP went back to the summit of Bald Mountain again before heading down to the G6.  Lupe had a great time racing around through the yellow, purple, and white flowers and what SPHP called “pom pom” plants waving in the breeze.Lupe on Bald Mountain 7-11-13By 8:30 AM SPHP had everything packed up.  Lupe and SPHP headed W down spectacular Hwy 14A out of the Bighorns.  Lupe barked frantically at cows and horses across western Wyoming.   Lupe’s route went through Lovell, Powell and Cody, WY.  She rode in air-conditioned comfort since it was hot outside – almost 90°F.

From Cody, SPHP took Hwy 120 N to the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, Hwy 296.  When Lupe reached the Beartooth Hwy No. 212, SPHP made a beeline for Lupe and SPHP’s favorite camping site on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River.  Lupe and SPHP had discovered this prime spot on Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation with Lanis.

View from the big pullout on the W side of the pass on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway in NW Wyoming.
View from the big pullout on the W side of the pass on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway in NW Wyoming.
View of Pilot (L) and Index (R) Peaks from Lupe's favorite camping spot on the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone River
View of Pilot (11,699 ft.) (L) and Index (11,240 ft.) (R) Peaks from Lupe’s favorite camping spot on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River

Lupe and SPHP were in luck!  Arriving at 1 PM, the favorite camping site was open.  SPHP had the tent set up within 30 minutes.  As it later turned out, not a moment too soon.  After setting up the tent, SPHP was ready to take Lupe for an afternoon outing.  Nothing really long, just for a few hours.  SPHP chose a nearby trail up Pilot Creek.

As Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6 at the Pilot Creek trailhead, some people in a big white pickup truck pulling a trailer loaded with ATV’s drove up.  They asked if Lupe and SPHP were tenting across the road.  SPHP said yes, and they said they were from Cody, WY.  Lupe and SPHP were in their favorite spot to camp.  (You know you are in a good spot when the locals think it is the best one, too!)  They asked if it would bother Lupe and SPHP, if they camped nearby.  Lupe and SPHP had no problem with that.  It’s still a free country.  They didn’t need Lupe and SPHP’s permission, although it was considerate of them to ask.

Lupe claims her favorite camping site on the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone.
Lupe claims her favorite camping site on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone.
Set up on the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone, July 2013
Set up on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone, July 11, 2013

Lupe and SPHP started up the Pilot Creek trail.  At first Pilot Creek was visible below, but the trail climbed steadily so fast Lupe was soon far above the creek.  Before long there were views of the snow-capped Beartooth Mountains to the N.  The trail went uphill so long SPHP decided they should have named it Pilot Peak trail, as the trail seemed destined to climb it.  (That SPHP, what a whiner and exaggerator!  No wonder Lupe has to call her blog The (MOSTLY) True Adventures of Lupe!)

Just about the time SPHP was considering giving up and turning around, the trail leveled out and started a more gentle up and down, so Lupe stuck with it. Lupe and SPHP were in a big valley up on the W side hundreds of feet above the creek.  There was a big mountain a few miles away with a large snow bank on it, and the trail headed for that.

Lupe and SPHP had covered about 1/2 the distance to the big mountain and arrived at a small open hill on the left side of the trail.  Except for one big dead old tree, it was open ground.  Lupe and SPHP climbed the little hill to gain, for the first time, an unobstructed view of the mountain with the big snow bank.  Pilot Creek was now closer than before, not as far below Lupe and SPHP as it had been.  A side creek with good flow was cascading very steeply into Pilot Creek from the E.  It originated from a high rocky ridge with some snow still present way up near the top.

Unfortunately SPHP had forgotten the camera.  Lupe and SPHP had gone a few miles along Pilot Creek trail.  The sky was clouding up like it was going to rain.  With no camera and rain coming, it was time to turn around.  The trip back to the trailhead was pleasant and very easy, since it was nearly all level or downhill.  Lupe had a good time barking at chipmunks.  SPHP enjoyed the view of the Beartooths, which were now directly ahead instead of behind.  It was a great welcome back to the Beartooths.  Lupe and SPHP met absolutely no one on the trail the entire time.

Back at the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River, there was no sign of the people from Cody.  They must decided they weren’t going to be happy camped next to Lupe and SPHP.  SPHP arranged all of the padding, blankets, and sleeping bags in the tent, then started making beef stew on the propane stove.  Before the beef stew was even ready, it started raining lightly.  Lupe and SPHP devoured the beef stew as soon as it was done.  It was starting to rain harder.

Lupe on the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone. Tent is set up just to the right of this photo. (Not pictured.)
Lupe on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone. Tent is set up just to the right of this photo. (Not pictured.)

Since the tent leaks (everything does in SPHP’s experience!), SPHP took all of the gear out of the tent and rearranged it back in the G6.  Rain meant a night in the G6.  Lupe was very tired from running around half the previous night on Bald Mountain.  SPHP was pretty weary too.  Soon both were passed out.  At least Lupe and SPHP had claimed their favorite spot on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River for the duration of Lupe’s stay in the Beartooths!

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