Devil’s Punchbowl – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Marys Peak, Coast Range, the Devils Punchbowl & Beverly Beach, Oregon (8-30-21 & 8-31-21)

Days 24, 25, and Part 1 of Day 26 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8-29-21, USFS Road No. 380 near a pond E of the Diamond Peak trailhead – Nothing happening today except rest and recuperation! Not after the Carolina Dog’s late return from Diamond Peak (8,744 ft.) yesterday. Lupe was content snoozing or gazing out the RAV4’s windows. Only when a squirrel or chipmunk appeared, did she leap out to bark at it a few times before returning to her comfy perch on a pile of blankets.

Sunny and hot. SPHP interrupted work on the trip journal to move the RAV4 to a shadier spot, then draped blankets over the windows. At 10:30 AM, people came by looking for the Diamond Peak trailhead. After that, pickups and ATV’s roared by, raising dust at long intervals.

8-30-21, 6:33 AM, 39ºF, same spot – Morning mist was drifting over the pond. Light out, but the sun wasn’t up yet. Directly overhead, a bright white half moon hung in a bone white sky. Smoky!

Guess that settles it, Loop! We’re done with the Cascade Range, at least for the time being. Trip journal’s caught up, so bid farewell to our little pond. We’re heading out!

Are we going to the Oregon coast, SPHP?

Yeah. If we can’t find blue skies there, I don’t know what we’ll do.

Heading NW on Hwy 58 after the scenic drive back to Oakridge, SPHP was surprised to see that the smoke already wasn’t as bad here. In fact, skies were gloomy. Looked like a storm was coming in! Drizzled for a few miles, but didn’t amount to much. Too bad, a real soaker would have done poor, parched Oregon a world of good.

NW of Junction City, during an exceptionally windy drive through deep forests to Alsea, blue skies and puffy white clouds appeared. A bit hazy, whether due to smoke or humidity it was hard to say, but not bad at all.

Hey, looks like you’re in luck, sweet puppy! Marys Peak (4,097 ft.) isn’t too far N of Alsea, want to try it?

I will, if you will, SPHP! Are you sufficiently recovered from Diamond Peak?

Oh, yeah! Marys Peak shouldn’t be that hard. It’s got some great stats, too! 3,357 feet of prominence, plus 48.57 miles of isolation, so its a major peak of the Oregon Coast Range.

8 miles N of Alsea at Alsea Summit, Hwy 34’s high point, SPHP turned L onto the road to Marys Peak. 6 winding, paved miles led to a sign.

East Ridge Connor’s Camp. Think that’s what we want, Loop!

By the East Ridge Conner’s Camp sign. R turn directly ahead!

8-30-21, 12:28 PM, 56ºF, East Ridge Conner’s Camp – A R turn led straight to a roomy paved parking lot. Several picnic tables were scattered over the dry grass beyond surrounding boulders. An outhouse and trailhead display completed amenities present. Within minutes, SPHP was ready. Loopster was on her way.

East Ridge Conner’s Camp parking lot. Photo looks ESE.

About to set out on East Ridge Trail No. 1324.

East Ridge Trail No. 1324 started out as a smooth, flat path heading NW through a leafy wonderland. Several noisy birds were creating quite a ruckus up in the treetops as Lupe set out, but she couldn’t see them. The Carolina Dog had barely gotten started when the trail rose slightly to cross USFS Road No. 2005.

The leafy wonderland near the start of East Ridge Trail No. 1324. Photo looks NW.

Crossing USFS Road No. 2005. Photo looks NW.

After crossing the road, the trail briefly turned WNW before beginning a mile long trek N along Marys Peak’s E slope. Most of the time, Loopster gradually gained elevation, although there were both somewhat steeper and flat stretches, too. Tall, branchless tree trunks soared above bushy undergrowth. The forest grew quiet as the noisy birds were left behind.

Climbing gradually among the tall trunks. Photo looks N.

A bench at a junction marked the end of Lupe’s trek N. Tie Trail No. 1313 continued NW from here, destined to link up with North Ridge Trail No. 1350, but that was the long way around. Much quicker to stick with East Ridge Trail No. 1324, which made a sharp turn SW. After a short break at the bench, Loop made the turn.

Bench at the junction of Tie Trail No. 1313 & East Ridge Trail No. 1324. Photo looks N.

A series of long switchbacks snaked up Marys Peak’s E, then NE, slopes. A bit rocky in a few places, but only for short stretches, and the trail was never steep. No views at all other than the tall trunk forest. A jungley profusion of ferns, bushes, and assorted large-leafed plants covering the forest floor gradually diminished as Lupe gained elevation.

Going up the East Ridge Trail No. 1324 switchbacks.

800 feet above where she’d left the bench, Lupe reached another trail junction. The forest was more open here, making it possible to see part of Mary Peak’s N ridge not that much higher toward the NW. East Ridge Trail No. 1324 continued that way to the unseen North Ridge trailhead, where it would end.

Instead, the American Dingo turned SSE on Summit Loop Trail No. 1388, which kept climbing as it traversed the upper E slopes of HP3942. When No. 1388 began curving SW, the trail broke out of the forest. Suddenly, Lupe was on a grassy hillside.

Summit Loop Trail No. 1388, **SE slope of HP3942**. Photo looks SW.

Once out in the open, Looper didn’t have much farther to go to reach a grassy saddle between HP3942 and the Marys Peak summit, which was still hidden by forest. The trail crossed a gravel road that appeared likely to head the rest of the way up the mountain.

Saddle between Marys Peak’s summit (not pictured) and **HP3942** (R). Photo looks NE.

Such a beautiful day! A bit hazy, but blue skies and cotton candy clouds overhead! The sunny gravel road was actually the other half of Summit Loop Trail No. 1388. Ahead, the single track re-entered a forest.

Shady trail or sunny road, any preference, Looper?

It’s summer, and I’m wearing a fur coat, SPHP. Take a wild guess!

A mental giant like SPHP easily figured this one out.

About to head back into the forest. Photo looks WSW.

Loopster had barely reached the shade, when SPHP paused to study a map posted along the trail. Several minutes went by.

The inscrutable Meadow Edge Trail posted map.

Must be quite the map, SPHP! What’s so fascinating about it? Aren’t we already practically to the top of the mountain?

What’s so fascinating, Loop, is that this map doesn’t make a lick of sense. The legend says “You are here”, but there’s no star marking our position. Doesn’t help that the whole thing is upside down.

Upside down! What do you mean by that, SPHP?

N is down, and S is up. Completely opposite the traditional arrangement.

I’ve got it! Stand on your head, SPHP. It will all make sense then!

Yeah, might work, if the map was posted at boot level. How am I going to see it with my head on the ground? Besides, I’d look ridiculous!

Never stopped you before, SPHP. Anyway, we’re almost there, keep going!

Sensible advice! Lupe led the way.

Continuing through the forest. Photo looks W.

Did learn one thing from that map, Loop.

What was that, SPHP?

The map shows an old growth Noble fir grove somewhere around here. Apparently, Meadow Edge Trail No. 1325 goes around it. Maybe we’ve been traveling through forests of younger specimens?

Perhaps, SPHP. Couldn’t tell you. We American Dingos aren’t really tree experts. What I can say, is that there aren’t enough squirrels in these forests. Haven’t seen a single one!

It wasn’t far at all to a fork. Summit Loop Trail No. 1388 veered L, while Meadow Edge Trail No. 1325 angled R. Sticking with No. 1388, Loopster followed it W. Gaining elevation, the trail began curving S. Soon Lupe was out of the forest again. Marys Peak’s summit was just up another grassy slope.

At the fork where Summit Loop Trail No. 1388 (L) and Meadow Edge Trail No. 1325 (R) part ways. Photo looks W.

8-30-21, 2:52 PM, 58ºF, Marys Peak (4,097 ft.) – The true summit of the highest peak of the Coast Range in Oregon was inaccessible behind a chain link fence protecting antennas, several sheds, and two giant sets of monkey bars. Happily, plenty of grassy hilltop only marginally lower was easily accessible just outside the fence.

Although the air was breezy and pleasant, Lupe must have felt warm. Chain link fences aren’t particularly great sunshades, but the Carolina Dog did the best she could, plopping herself down in the shade of a large supporting pole by a closed gate. A lone picnic table nearby might have offered better protection, but was occupied.

*Might wind up with a striped tan here!*

The summit region was roughly 300 feet long E/W, and at least half that wide N/S. A gravel road spiraled up along the N side of the fence from out of the SW, ending at the picnic table. No doubt the same road that was part of Summit Loop Trail No. 1388.

After a short break by the fence, Lupe followed the road W, abandoning it once past the fence to take up a position on a grassy slope near the SW corner where the views were best.

The giant monkey bars toward the **SW end of the summit region** opposite of where Lupe had come up. Photo looks NE.

After congratulating Loopster on her successful ascent of Marys Peak, a chocolate coconut bar was sacrificed to commemorate the occasion. For a while, Loop and SPHP sat admiring Old Blue Mountain (3,280 ft.) due S, and Grass Mountain (3,603 ft.), which was higher, but farther SW.

On the grassy slope SW of the fence. **Old Blue Mountain** (L), **Grass Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Grass Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto range.

Despite the haziness, staring toward the far W horizon, SPHP sometimes thought the Pacific Ocean was visible, but was never convinced whether that was actually the case, or mere illusion. What was certain, was that Lupe did have a clear view of Mary Peak’s W Ridge (3,640 ft.).

**Marys Peak’s W Ridge** (R of Center). Photo looks WNW.

After enjoying the views to the S and W, Looper continued her summit tour going counter-clockwise around the fence. Didn’t take long to get back to the NE corner where she’d started out. The picnic table and the shade it provided were now free, but with only dirt beneath it, Loopster decided she’d rather snooze on the soft grass taking advantage of SPHP’s shadow, while getting petted and having her soft ears stroked.

Of course, there were views from here, too. The one to the N along the Coast Range was particularly nice. Partially clear-cut lower hills led to high ridges in the distance, some of which might not have been much lower than Marys Peak.

Back at the NE end after circumnavigating the fence. Photo looks SW.

If it had been truly clear, there might have been a distant view of grand peaks of the Cascade Range beyond the broad, flat Willamette Valley, but Loop didn’t get to enjoy that treat. Smoke hid the entire range.

**Willamette Valley** from Marys Peak. Ordinarily, the Cascade Range should have been visible on the horizon, but wasn’t today. Photo looks SE.

Lupe’s snooze on the soft, dry grass was pleasant, but short.

Awake already, Looper?

Are we soup yet, SPHP?

Not quite. Still have a little of your summit hour remaining.

Do we have time enough to go around the fence again for another look, SPHP?

Easily. Want to do that? Should be fun!

Ambling along, taking all the lovely views in again, Loopster enjoyed a second leisurely spin counter-clockwise around the fence, arriving back at the NE corner again with only a few minutes of summit hour left.

Well, I think we’ve done it, Looper. Might as well head down.

Ready to hit the trail again. Photo looks E.

A final look at the **W ridge** (L) as summit hour expires. Photo looks WNW.

8-30-21, 4:55 PM, 55ºF, East Ridge Conner’s Camp –

Marys Peak was fun, SPHP! Sort of nice not to have to do a killer peak on every single outing, yet Marys is the highest peak of the entire Coast Range in Oregon, right?

That’s right, Loop! Want some chicken?

No, not yet. I’d rather lay down in the RAV4.

Suit yourself, Looper! Let me know if you change your mind. I’ll open the door for you as soon as I have a couple pieces of chicken and polish off these sweet rolls. A few minutes, and we’ll be on our way.

Take your time, SPHP. I’m good!

Oh, can’t take too much time, Loop! More to do today!

There is? We aren’t done? What’s next, another mountain?

Don’t worry, you’re going to love it, Loop! We’ve got a beautiful evening drive ahead of us followed by a surprise.

What kind of a surprise, SPHP?

A good one! You’ll see!

8-30-21, 7:16 PM, Devils Punchbowl, Oregon Coast – Not a moment too soon! Coming into Newport on Hwy 20, the sun’s reflection off the Pacific Ocean had nearly blinded SPHP, but Lupe had arrived with enough daylight to spare for a romp along the beach.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! The Devils Punchbowl! How long has it been since we’ve been here?

9 years, Loop. You were only 20 months old when we were last here with Lanis on your first ever Dingo Vacation.

Gazing beyond the Devils Punchbowl out over the eternally restless waves of the Pacific Ocean, that was a sobering thought. So exquisitely beautiful here, yet it had taken all these years to return. So many other adventures and Dingo Vacations since then!

**Devils Punchbowl** (R). Photo looks NNW.

C’mon, Looper! Let’s go down to the beach!

A block back inland, a long set of wooden stairs led down to the same beach where Lupe had waded in the ocean for the first time ever. It had been a great time, being here with Lanis, playing with other dogs, racing along the beach making seagulls fly, and sniffing along the edge of the cold, salty waves while listening to the roar of the ocean.

The beach had been, well, not crowded, but busy back then. Not now. Lupe stood on the wet sand all alone. Why? Covid-19? Who knew?

**Pacific Ocean**, just **S of the Devils Punchbowl**. Photo looks W.

And who cares? We’ve got the whole place to ourselves. How awesome is that, SPHP? Time for a sunset stroll!

Sounds splendid, Loopster! Let’s follow the ocean S. C’mon, I’ll race ya!

The Carolina Dog didn’t play fair! Excited by the sights and sounds of the ocean, the were-puppy attacked SPHP multiple times, then streaked away, showing off how fast she could run, seagulls scattering before her.

It was a grand time! Lupe went as far S as a little stream where 2 people were trying to fly kites in an inadequate breeze. After watching their amusing trials and tribulations for a few minutes, it was back N on the cold, wet sand along the water’s edge as a wonderful day drew to a close.

*The **Pacific Ocean**! Time for a sunset stroll along the beach!* Photo looks S.

Only one bad thing, Loop!

What’s that, SPHP?

Mo’s World Famous Clam Chowder is closed up by the Devils Punchbowl.

Lanis will sure be sorry to hear that, SPHP! He loved that place! Best clam chowder in the world!

Yeah, and now we aren’t going to get any tonight, either, sweet puppy! And I was so looking forward to it!

8-31-21, 9:01 AM, 67ºF, Devils Punchbowl – A gorgeous day! Trip journal caught up again, and the early morning chill was pretty much over and done with.

Can’t leave the Devils Punchbowl without another stroll along the beach, Loop!

Great minds think alike, SPHP!

Once again, Lupe trotted down the long wooden stairs to the beach. Still hardly anyone around, but the mood was different. The day was young and bright as the Carolina Dog ventured S. SPHP walked barepaw in the water as much as possible, until it got too cold, then warmed up on the sand. Rinse and repeat! Lupe liked the wet sand right along the water’s edge best, but waded in after SPHP plenty of times.

Back on the beach just **S of the Devils Punchbowl**. Photo looks W.

Got breezy. Waves rolled in. The ocean surged and roared. Love it!

On ripple-marked sand. **Otter Rock** (Center) in the ocean. Photo looks SW.

The American Dingo went farther this time, all the way to Spencer Creek at the 2 mile mark and beyond.

Think we’ve made it to Beverly Beach, Loop. Hate to turn around, but maybe this is far enough? Nothing like being along the ocean, is there?

A rare treat for us, SPHP! Let’s take it slow, if we’re going back.

Hwy 101 bridge over Spencer Creek from **Beverly Beach**. Photo looks E.

**Gull Rock**. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Heading back to the Devils Punchbowl. Photo looks N.

Even a leisurely return went by too fast. Rather than race back up the wooden steps, the Carolina Dog spent a little while sniffing around the rock formations S of the Devils Punchbowl.

8-31-21, 11:16 AM, Devils Punchbowl – A chain link fence prevented Lupe from seeing the Devils Punchbowl. SPHP lifted the American Dingo up so she could watch waves enter the collapsed sea cave before draining back into the ocean. The scene was mesmerizing, but SPHP couldn’t let Lupe gaze too long, because a growing throng of people were waiting their turn at the best viewpoints.

**Devils Punchbowl**. **Gull Rock** (R of Center) beyond. Photo looks NW.

Sure is beautiful, SPHP! Wonder what’s down there? Looks like a great place for buried treasure!

Might be right, Loop. Both beautiful and dangerous down there! Certain amount of natural treasure protection present. High tide would likely put an end to anyone foolish enough to get overly absorbed in a Devils Punchbowl treasure hunt.

**Devils Punchbowl**. Another angle. Photo looks SW.

Well, it was time. Someone else’s turn. Marys Peak, Lupe’s return to the Devils Punchbowl after all these years, the long strolls along the Pacific Ocean at sunset yesterday evening, and as far S as Beverly Beach this morning, had been great fun.

Getting to be lunch time, and after that, on to new adventures! 9 years after leaving this wonderful place with Lanis in his Honda Element, the Carolina Dog trotted with SPHP back to her still new RAV4.

Ready, Loop?

She was.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

**Pacific Ocean**, **S of the Devils Punchbowl**, Oregon Coast 8-31-21

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Devils Punchbowl, Beverly Beach & Moolack Beach, Oregon Coast (8-25-12 & 8-26-12)

Marys Peak, Siuslaw National Forest

Marys Peak Trail System Map

Devils Punchbowl State Natural Area

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacations to New Mexico, Wyoming & the West Coast Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

The Upper Dewey Lake Trail to the Devil’s Punchbowl & meeting Chinese Explorer Bingc Gu, Skagway, Alaska (9-8-18)

Day 36 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8:27 AM, 56°F, Skagway – On the SE edge of town, Lupe crossed the tracks of the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad. Immediately ahead, a wide well-beaten path went up a steep slope into the forest. A sign confirmed that this was it – Loop was at start of the trail to both Lower & Upper Dewey Lakes, plus a number of other destinations as well.

By the railroad tracks on the SE side of Skagway.

After 3 days spent mostly on the road cooped up in the G6, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was ready for action! Although mostly cloudy out, enough blue sky could be seen to convince SPHP that the moment had arrived when Loopster could finally set off on a bigger adventure than her recent brief stops along the highway.

Up the trail Lupe went. Almost right away, she came to a junction where another sign said she needed to go R. A wooden stairway led down to a couple of water pipes hanging so low over the trail that SPHP had to duck. Shortly thereafter, Lupe crossed a bridge over Dewey Creek.

At the first turn, which came almost immediately after starting up the trail. Lupe went under the water pipes from here.

*This bridge over Dewey Creek appears shortly after going under the water pipes.*

The trail now began switchbacking up a steep slope. Due to dense forest, no views were available, but Lupe was quite happy barking at squirrels. Once she had a good start on gaining the 500 feet of elevation required to reach Lower Dewey Lake, a small clearing appeared. From here, Lupe could see the Skagway harbor, and Mount Harding (5,321 ft.) across Taiya Inlet.

**Mount Harding** (L) across **Taiya Inlet**. Photo looks SW.

Beyond the clearing, the trail resumed its steep climb in the forest. As Lupe started getting close to Lower Dewey Lake, the terrain began to level out. At a junction, a sign clearly indicated Loop needed to go L to get to the Upper Dewey Lake trail. However, a number of trails existed in this area, and most were not well signed. In SPHP’s confusion, Lupe somehow wound up at a small reservoir.

Sign at a trail junction not far from Lower Dewey Lake. Lupe went L here, but SPHP still managed to lose the way.

Unintentionally touring a small reservoir while looking for the Upper Dewey Lake trail. Photo looks E.

Backtracking to the sign and trying again, Lupe quickly arrived at the NW shore of long, narrow Lower Dewey Lake. The Lower Dewey Lake trail follows the heavily forested shoreline all the way around the lake, but the lower lake wasn’t what Lupe had come to see. Heading N, she reached a small wooden bridge where another sign again pointed out the way to the Upper Dewey Lake trail.

Near the N end of Lower Dewey Lake another sign points out the way to the Upper Dewey Lake trail. Photo looks E.

Leaving the lower lake behind, Lupe followed the Upper Dewey Lake trail NE along a tributary of Dewey Creek. She discovered a couple of brilliant mushrooms in this area.

Near a **tributary of Dewey Creek** after leaving Lower Dewey Lake. Photo looks NE.

Brilliant toadstools found along the tributary of Dewey Creek.

Less than 0.25 mile from Lower Dewey Lake, the trail divided. Icy Lake and Upper Reid Falls were straight ahead. Lupe turned SE (R) staying on the Upper Dewey Lake trail. After making this turn, she came to no more intersections.

Lower Dewey Lake had been only a 500 foot climb. However, getting to Upper Dewey Lake was a much more serious undertaking. Lupe needed to gain another 2,500 feet of elevation! The Upper Dewey Lake trail was soon climbing aggressively, and stayed that way for a long time. Even the switchbacks were steep. Once again, the dense forest hid all distant views, although Lupe often got to see Dewey Creek cascading straight down the mountain.

Near **Dewey Creek** as it plunges down the mountainside.

A rare glimpse back toward **Skagway** during the steepest part of the climb. **Face Mountain (4,830 ft.)** (L) and **Parsons Peak (5,600 ft.)** (Center) are beyond **Taiya Inlet**. Photo looks W.

The first 1,000 feet were the worst. The slope gradually diminished after that. Wooden stairways sometimes appeared. One was quite long. After a while, it often looked like Lupe was coming to some sort of a top, but that was merely an illusion. The Carolina Dog climbed and climbed, yet never seemed to get there. SPHP paused frequently to gasp for breath.

Finally, an open spot appeared. A mountaintop was in sight ahead. The trail went right back into the forest, but after seeing that mountain, the rate of climb was noticeably easier.

At the open spot where Lupe first caught sight of the mountain ahead. No longer as steep, the Upper Dewey Lake trail continued well beyond this point. Photo looks E.

For another 40 minutes, the trail went on and on, though less difficult and winding around more than before. Then the forest began to thin out, permitting views from minor high points.

Looking back across Taiya Inlet as the forest thins. **Mount Harding** (L) in shadow. **Face Mountain** (far R). Photo looks W.

Lupe was getting close to treeline when she came to an orange meadow where she had a much more complete view of the mountain she had seen before. The trail was nearly flat now. Only a little farther, Upper Dewey Lake lay hidden in a vast amphitheater.

Almost there! At the orange meadow close to Upper Dewey Lake. Photo looks ENE.

A few more minutes, and Lupe was there! Upper Dewey Lake occupied much of the lower level of a two-tier amphitheater. Against a backdrop of mountains, forests, colorful tundra, and a small snowfield, Upper Dewey Lake was absolutely gorgeous!

A cabin with a view of the lake sat off to the L (NE) of the trail. This was the City of Skagway rental cabin, the nicer of two cabins close to Upper Dewey Lake. If the rental cabin hadn’t been occupied, Lupe would have gone over to peer in the windows to see what it was like inside.

The City of Skagway rental cabin. By far the nicest of two cabins at Upper Dewey Lake. Photo looks ENE.

The other cabin was free. Anyone could stay there on a first come, first serve basis. Lupe found the free use cabin tucked back against the trees SW of the trail. This cabin was not occupied, so Loopster could snoop around. The curious American Dingo even went inside.

By the free use cabin, which was … umm … rustic.

The free use cabin contained plywood bunk beds and an ancient wood stove. Everything was filthy, except for two windows, crystal clear due to the absence of glass. The words “primitive” and “rustic” came to mind, but then you get what you pay for.

The list of amenities did include a roof and 4 walls. No view of the lake, but it was only a minute away. Wipe away the dust, start a fire in the wood stove, and the rustic cabin wouldn’t be a bad port in a storm.

It didn’t take an American Dingo long to inspect an old cabin. Loop had come to see Upper Dewey Lake, not this! Abandoning the free use cabin, she briefly stopped by a picnic table at a little high point overlooking the lake. It was colder here than down in Skagway. While SPHP layered up, Lupe sniffed with a couple of dogs that came running over from the rental cabin.

When her new-found friends got called back, Lupe went down closer to the lake. What a magnificent scene! Upper Dewey Lake was so pretty!

Lupe at **Upper Dewey Lake**. Photo looks ESE.

**N end of Upper Dewey Lake**. Photo looks NE.

Exploring S along the W shore of Upper Dewey Lake, Lupe checked out the lovely views from several different boulders.

On a rock near a tiny sandy beach. Photo looks S.

Since leaving Skagway, Lupe had gained 3,000 feet of elevation. The plan all along had been to continue another 600 feet higher to a ridge beyond the S end of Upper Dewey Lake. From this ridge, Loop would be able to see the Devil’s Punchbowl.

From **Upper Dewey Lake**, Lupe headed for the notch seen in the ridge beyond her. The Devil’s Punchbowl is on the other side. Photo looks SW.

Once beyond the S end of Upper Dewey Lake, Looper started up a tiny creek. SPHP was surprised when the trail she had been following faded rapidly. Somewhere around here there was supposed to be an official trail to the Devil’s Punchbowl, but this didn’t seem to be it.

Didn’t really matter. Although steep in places, this route wasn’t difficult, so the Carolina Dog just kept climbing. The tiny creek vanished, as Lupe scrambled up a small boulder field. As she got higher, the views looking back at Upper Dewey Lake became even more spectacular!

*We don’t seem to be on quite the right path to the Devil’s Punchbowl, but don’t worry, we’ll get there!* On the way up to the ridgeline. Photo looks SW.

*Pretty easy along in here!* Photo looks SW.

Before Lupe quite made it to the saddle she was heading for, she did come across a better trail that had been farther W on a small ridge going up this same direction. Venturing over to the W edge of the ridge, Loop had a tremendous view of Skagway and Taiya Inlet all the way to Dyea.

**Skagway** and **Taiya Inlet** from the W edge of the ridge. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Harding** (L) and **Parsons Peak** (R) beyond **Taiya Inlet**. Between them is the **Burro Creek valley**. **Skagway** is at far R. Photo looks W.

Zoomed in on mountains near the **Burro Creek valley**. Photo looks W.

Along the W edge of the ridge leading to the Devil’s Punchbowl. Photo looks SSW.

It wasn’t much farther to the top of the ridge. When Lupe got there, she found a broad flat area strewn with rocks amid sparse tundra. Crossing this region took only a couple of minutes. From the far S edge, she had a grand view of the Devil’s Punchbowl nestled in a cirque below her.

Crossing the flat region at the top of the ridge. Photo looks S.

The **Devil’s Punchbowl** comes into view. Photo looks S.

Looking farther up the ridge between the Devil’s Punchbowl and Upper Dewey Lake. Photo looks ESE.

Nestled in an even remoter spot, the **Devil’s Punchbowl** was only a third of the size of Upper Dewey Lake, and a much deeper blue.

**Devil’s Punchbowl** with a bit of help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Harding** (Center) beyond **Taiya Inlet** from the Devil’s Punchbowl overlook. Photo looks WSW.

Ready for a break, Lupe curled up beneath a stunted spruce tree, while SPHP relaxed gazing at the fabulous views. Within 10 minutes, a young woman appeared, which is how Lupe met Chinese explorer Bingc Gu.

Bingc was friendly, and spoke English well. Not perfectly, sometimes she searched for words, but compared to SPHP’s non-existent Chinese, Bingc was an absolute master of the English language. Bingc was a 19 year old student from Beijing, where she studies Business Administration and English. She is the oldest of 2 sisters and 1 brother, and had been living on her own since she turned 15.

Bingc had spent the summer working in Skagway as part of an exchange program. She loved living in a small town, and the beautiful mountains here. Bingc was quite sad that she was going to have to leave on the 16th, only 8 days from now, to return to her studies.

Her grandfather once had a yellow dog that had lived to be very old. So Bingc liked dogs, and was quite taken with Lupe.

As Bingc chatted with SPHP, two young men showed up, though not at the same time. They both worked on cruise ships, and had come up to see the Devil’s Punchbowl while they still could. The Skagway tourist season was ending. At 8:00 PM tonight, their ships were sailing away, bound for Hawaii, the Fiji Islands and Australia. Sounded like fun!

Neither of the young men stayed long. Both had to get back to their ships. Once they departed, Lupe and SPHP joined Bingc in going down to the Devil’s Punchbowl. For a while, new friends Lupe and Bingc sat together on the E shore.

Bingc and Lupe along the E shore of the **Devil’s Punchbowl**. Photo looks N.

Relaxing by the **Devil’s Punchbowl**. Photo looks WSW.

**Mount Harding** (R) with help from the telephoto lens.

In the end, chatting with Bingc was so much fun, that when the time came to leave, Lupe and SPHP went with her.

A last look back at the **Devil’s Punchbowl**. Photo looks S.

Back along the W side of the ridge leading to the Devil’s Punchbowl.

Chinese explorer Bingc Gu with American Dingo explorer, Lupe.

The long ridge on the R is **AB Mountain (5,036 ft.)** which Lupe had climbed in 2017 to join the Arctic Sisterhood. Photo looks N.

On the way down to Upper Dewey Lake, Lupe and SPHP followed Bingc, who had actually come up the correct trail on the ridgeline W of where the Carolina Dog had been. This route also went through some boulder fields, and didn’t seem much better or worse than the way Lupe had gone up to see the Devil’s Punchbowl.

Bingc leads the way back down to **Upper Dewey Lake**. Photo looks NE.

**Upper Dewey Lake** with help from the telephoto lens.

It turned out that the ridge route went to the picnic table near Upper Dewey Lake that Lupe and SPHP had stopped by earlier. Bingc didn’t mind the company, and was happy to have Lupe come along on the rest of the way back down the Dewey Lakes trails to Skagway.

At a steady, but unhurried pace, slender, polite, soft-spoken Bingc led the way while talking about many things. Lupe had been lucky to meet her. During her summer in Skagway, Bingc had taken the trail up to and around Lower Dewey Lake many times, but today was the only time she had ever gone on to Upper Dewey Lake and the Devil’s Punchbowl.

Bingc was a serious student. She liked languages, literature, and history. She was interested in travel and other cultures, and in sharing Chinese culture. While in Skagway, Bingc had made new friends, some of them Chinese, some not, another reason she was sad to be leaving soon.

However, Bingc felt Skagway had been good for her. She thought more boldly now, considering the whole world as her home. She wanted to keep exploring and climbing mountains. On the only remaining day off work that she had left in Skagway, she planned on taking the train up to White Pass. 8 days from now, Bingc would be taking the ferry to Juneau hoping to see some whales, then fly on to Seattle and Beijing. And some day, she intended to return to Skagway.

At last, the railroad tracks appeared. End of the trail. Bingc petted Lupe for the last time. If Loopster ever made it to China on one of her Dingo Vacations, Bingc promised to take the American Dingo to the Great Wall of China! Lupe and SPHP wished Bingc good fortune in her travels and adventures. If Bingc ever comes to the Black Hills, Lupe would take her to Mount Rushmore. Smiling, Bingc shook hands with SPHP, and said good-bye. She then turned and walked away, bound for home in her beloved Skagway. (6:18 PM, 64°F)

Upper Dewey Lake and the Devil’s Punchbowl had been a great day, a beautiful adventure. Meeting Bingc had been fun. However, Bingc was now on to other adventures, and Lupe was, too. Returning to the G6, Lupe and SPHP were soon on the South Klondike Highway on the way out of Skagway.

Tomorrow’s plan was to revisit part of the wonderful International Falls trail, then leave it to climb Peak 6053. However, when Lupe reached White Pass, the sky was dark and stormy looking. A cold rain set in. Not too encouraging. Loop and SPHP stopped for the night in the Tormented Valley, to wait and see what the morning might bring.

**Lupe** and Chinese explorer **Bingc Gu**, Devil’s Punchbowl Lake, Skagway, Alaska 9-8-18

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood! Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17)

International Falls, Canada to Alaska (8-8-17)

Skagway, Alaska Area Trails Map & Brochure

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

The Devil’s Punchbowl, Beverly Beach & Moolack Beach, Oregon Coast (8-25-12 & 8-26-12)

Days 18 & 19 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

It was early when SPHP woke up. Sleeping sitting up in Lanis’ Honda Element hadn’t been much fun. Lupe was ready to get out, too. Lupe and SPHP stretched their legs wandering around a little park near a bay of the ocean in Seaside, Oregon. Well, just last night the little park had been near a bay of the ocean, but the ocean had disappeared!

Lupe and SPHP went down to a river that had been flowing into the ocean the evening before. This time, SPHP made certain Lupe did NOT repeat her Dead Fish Dingo performance. The river, which had been pretty wide the previous evening, was now only a tiny stream flowing over mud flats. The entire bay the river had flowed into was now a mud flat, too. The mud extended to the horizon.

The tide had gone out. It had gone out so far, Lupe and SPHP couldn’t even see the ocean anymore! It had followed the moon, and fled the scene. Interesting. Not the sort of thing one expects back in South Dakota, but no doubt an ordinary event for those used to living near the ocean. It didn’t take Lupe and SPHP long to get bored staring at mud. Lupe and SPHP left what was left of the river, and wandered through the rest of the little park.

The park was partially wooded with stands of trees separated by wide mowed pathways. The previous evening, SPHP had seen a plaque on a rock back in the woods, but it had been too dark to read it. Lupe and SPHP went to see what was written there. The plaque said Lupe was at a 20 acre site dedicated to Rueben Snake, the 1st President of the American Indian Movement back in the early 1970’s.

Lupe and SPHP explored the most densely forested part of the park, and were surprised to find a grave. A headstone indicated a Kathleen somebody, who had passed away in 2003, was buried there. Finding a grave in a park also seemed rather odd, but it was the end of the oddities. Lupe and SPHP returned to the Element. Lanis was awake.

The plan for the day was to drive S along the Oregon coast as far as the Devil’s Punchbowl. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP headed S on Hwy 101. It was a beautiful sunny morning and a lovely drive. Sometimes the Pacific Ocean was in view. Lupe’s home in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a very long way from any ocean, so seeing the Pacific was a rare treat.

The Pacific Ocean along the Oregon coast.

Just a few miles before reaching the Devil’s Punchbowl, the sunny morning disappeared. A dense fog bank rolled in, and the mood of the day changed completely. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went to see the Devil’s Punchbowl in the fog.

Fog rolled in just a few miles N of the Devil's Punchbowl, and changed the mood of the day completely. — Fog rolled in just a few miles N of the Devil’s Punchbowl, and changed the mood of the day completely.

The Devil's punchbowl seems to be a collapsed cave hollowed out by the sea. The sea washes in and out of the Punchbowl, with every wave. The Punchbowl is big enough to hold an awful lot of punch, especially since it would all leak out into the Pacific. — The Devil’s punchbowl seems to be a collapsed cave hollowed out by the sea. The sea washes in and out of the Punchbowl, with every wave. The Punchbowl is big enough to hold an awful lot of punch, especially since it would all leak out into the Pacific.

Despite the fog, SPHP wanted to stay in the area. One thing was for certain, neither Lanis nor SPHP wanted to spend another night sitting upright in the Element. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left the Devil’s Punchbowl to line up a place to set up Lupe’s tiny house. The first place S of the Devil’s Punchbowl was Beverly Beach State Park. There was a big forested campground there. It looked pretty crowded with people, so it was probably a good idea to secure a campsite there right away.

There weren’t any vacancies. Every site in the entire campground was occupied or reserved for the night. Fortunately, a Mr. Toma came along while SPHP was still talking to the state park personnel. He and his wife wanted to cancel their reservation and go elsewhere. The park personnel refused to refund his prepaid reservation, but were perfectly fine with Mr. Toma making a separate deal with SPHP.

So, it all worked out great! Mr. Toma and SPHP worked out a deal. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP couldn’t actually take possession of Mr. Toma’s reserved site until the current occupant vacated the site at 1:30 PM, but that was OK. With a place to stay secured for the evening, it was time to go back to the Devil’s Punchbowl. Lupe was going to check out the beach just to the S!

A long set of stairs led down to the beach from the parking lot near the Devil’s Punchbowl. It was still foggy out. Lupe still wasn’t too used to the ocean. She explored the mysterious foggy beach cautiously, at first.

Before long, Lupe was got brave enough to go wading in the ocean. She didn’t go very far, and retreated from each incoming wave, but she was getting her paws wet. SPHP waded with her. Even though it was late August, the water was pretty cold. It seemed even colder than up at Beach 4 in Washington. No wonder the people out trying to surfboard on pathetically small waves were all wearing wet suits!

Lupe grew brave enough to wade in the Pacific Ocean, but was careful to stay in shallow water.

Lupe really started having fun when someone brought a Dalmatian dog down to the beach. The Dalmatian wanted to play, and Lupe was soon having a blast with her new friend!

Lupe had a blast playing on the beach with her new Dalmatian friend.

At 1:30 PM; Lupe, Lanis and SPHP returned to Beverly Beach State Park to take possession of site F15, which was the site Mr. Toma had reserved. Soon Lanis and SPHP had Lupe’s tiny house pitched.

By now the fog had dissipated, and it was sunny out. Like SPHP, Lanis hadn’t slept well sitting up in the Element last night, either. He wanted to take a nap in Lupe’s tiny house. Lupe stayed with Lanis, while SPHP enjoyed the luxury of a hot shower at Beverly Beach State Park’s nice facility.

After SPHP emerged all crisp and clean from the shower, Lupe and SPHP took a walk around the campground while Lanis snoozed. Lupe soon discovered it was possible to go directly from the campground under a Hwy 101 bridge on down to the ocean. Lupe and SPHP had a great stroll along the Pacific, heading N back towards the Devil’s Punchbowl. Lupe and SPHP had fun wading in and out of the water, watching the waves and seagulls, and hearing the roar of the ocean.

By the time Lupe was 3/4 of the way to the Devil’s Punchbowl, it was time to go back and check on Lanis. Lanis hadn’t slept well, even in Lupe’s tiny house. The campground was just too crowded and noisy in the middle of the afternoon. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP got in the Element and cruised S on Hwy 101. At the first little town, Lanis and SPHP stopped to pick up some Chinese take-out.

After eating at a viewpoint over the Pacific, Lanis drove back to the Devil’s Punchbowl again. SPHP was fine, but Lanis started feeling queasy. He stayed in the Element while Lupe and SPHP went back down to the beach. SPHP hoped to get some photos of a brilliant Pacific sunset, but it would be a while before then. Lupe and SPHP played on the beach, wading in the water again, while heading S now toward Beverly Beach.

The beach where Lupe played between Devil's Punchbowl and Beverly Beach State Park. Photo looks S. — The beach where Lupe played between Devil’s Punchbowl and Beverly Beach State Park. Photo looks S.

Lupe came to some guys who were digging a big pit in the sand. They were stacking up driftwood for a bonfire. Eventually they tried lighting the bonfire, but it was slow to take. Sometimes there were other dogs to go sniff with. Lupe ran around having a great time.

The bonfire smokes before really getting going.

Lupe discovered a new ocean beach sport! She started racing along the beach at top speed beneath seagulls flying overhead. She barked enthusiastically at them with her head tilted up to see where they were flying. However, Lupe couldn’t really see where SHE was going doing this.

Sometimes the seagulls flew out over the ocean. Often this caused an unsuspecting Lupe to dash at top speed smack into an ocean wave, from which a completely drenched and surprised Carolina Dog emerged a moment later. Her spirits weren’t dampened, though. Lupe was really beginning to like the ocean!

The brilliant red, orange and gold sunset SPHP was hoping for never developed. Instead, it became clear the sun was going to sink into a cloud bank. As the sun went down, everything was all silvery, black and white. It was still a beautiful way to end the day. Lupe and SPHP stayed on the beach until the sun was down.

Sunset near the Devil's Punchbowl on the Oregon Coast. — Sunset near the Devil’s Punchbowl on the Oregon Coast.

The next morning, Lupe and SPHP were up early. Lanis was finally sleeping soundly, so Lupe and SPHP slipped off back down to the beach to enjoy the ocean again. This time Lupe and SPHP made it all the way to the end of the beach next to the Devil’s Punchbowl.

A couple with two Labrador retrievers were throwing tennis balls into the ocean for their dogs to retrieve. Lupe stole a tennis ball to get into the game. The Labs gave chase, but Lupe was much faster. She zoomed around zig-zagging this way and that. The Labs couldn’t catch her.

Eventually Lupe dropped the ball, and chased the Labs while they ran with it. That game was too easy, though. Lupe had no problem catching them. The Labs wore out, and gave up on catching or escaping from Lupe. They returned to retrieving tennis balls from the ocean, and the game was over.

SPHP and Lupe made the long trek back to Beverly Beach State Park to check on Lanis. He was up and feeling much better. There wasn’t really a plan yet for the rest of the day, so Lanis and Lupe packed up Lupe’s tiny house just to provide freedom of action.

After checking out of Beverly Beach State Park. Lanis drove up to the Devil’s Punchbowl once again. Right next to the Devil’s Punchbowl is Mo’s West restaurant, which was going to open up in just a few minutes at 11:00 AM. Lanis wound up getting Mo’s Clam Chowder Bread Bowl, and SPHP got Mo’s World Famous Clam Chowder. Both Lanis and SPHP really thought it was delicious!

Lupe had another opinion. As it turns out, Carolina Dogs don’t like seafood. At least they don’t like anything with clams in it. Lupe wouldn’t touch the stuff. Oh, well! Lanis and SPHP were happy with that. It just left more for them.

While Lanis and SPHP were enjoying the food from Mo’s, the weather outside the Element was deteriorating. It had been kind of a dark and cloudy morning before, but now the wind started blowing and it started to mist. Lanis played with his phone, SPHP watched the tide going out, and Lupe snoozed while waiting for the weather to improve again.

It didn’t. It was a good thing Lanis and SPHP had packed up Lupe’s tiny house. It wasn’t tenting weather any more. SPHP began to realize the weather wasn’t going to improve. It was time to leave the Pacific Ocean. SPHP realized it might be a very long time before Lupe ever got to see the ocean again. Despite the weather, before leaving, Lupe was going to get one more chance to enjoy the magnificent Pacific Ocean.

Lupe, Lanis and SPHP left the Devil’s Punchbowl for the last time. Lanis drove a few miles S on Hwy 101 to Moolack Beach. There was hardly anyone else on Moolack Beach. The wind was blustery, and the waves were getting bigger. The mist became rain. Lupe, Lanis and SPHP went wading in the ocean and wandering along the shore. The water felt colder than ever.

Lupe enjoyed her seagull chasing, and crashing into the big waves. As it started to rain harder and the waves grew bigger, the beach started to feel like a remote and lonely place. The power of the ocean grew. Lupe ran far down the beach, until she was just a tiny brown speck next to the crashing waves. SPHP began to get concerned for her. The waves looked huge compared to the tiny Dingo. SPHP yelled for Lupe to come back, even though she was so far away, even with big Dingo ears she couldn’t have heard SPHP over the roar of the ocean.

A minute or two later, the tiny brown and white speck started streaking toward SPHP. She never stays away long, no matter how much fun she’s having. SPHP realized Lupe was having her last run as a young doggie along the mighty ocean. It was fun to watch her. She arrived panting hard, soaking wet from ears to tail, with a gigantic grin on her face. The ocean was soooo much fun!

SPHP was glad she had enjoyed it, but with the weather deteriorating, the ocean might get pretty dangerous, too. It was raining harder all the time. Time to leave the ocean.

So, reluctantly, Lupe, Lanis and SPHP said goodbye to the glorious Pacific Ocean. As a young American Dingo, Lupe really had made it all the way to the West Coast on her 2012 Dingo Vacation! She’d had marvelous adventures on the Washington and Oregon coasts she would always remember. Now it was time to start heading home.

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