Emerald Lake, Yoho Lake & High Point of Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park, Canada (7-24-13)

Lupe entered British Columbia for the first time on the morning of 7-24-13, Day 15 of her 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths/Canadian Rockies.  Two or three km S of the small community of Field, SPHP turned right (W) off Trans-Canada Hwy 1 on Emerald Lake Road.  A little over a km off Hwy 1, Lupe and SPHP stopped to view the Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River.

The Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River is a little over a km off Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 along Emerald Lake Road.
The Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River is a little over a km off Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 along Emerald Lake Road just 2 or 3 km S of the small community of Field, British Columbia.
The frothy, foaming, glacial silt-laden Kicking Horse River just downstream of the Natural Bridge.
The frothy, foaming, glacial silt-laden Kicking Horse River just downstream of the Natural Bridge.

The Kicking Horse River had a powerful flood of glacial-silt laden water pouring under the Natural Bridge.  It was an impressive scene, but far too dangerous for Dingoes to stay and play.  Lupe and SPHP drove on the rest of the way to Emerald Lake, about 8 km from Hwy 1, arriving at the SW shore of the beautiful deep green lake around 8:30 AM.

SPHP’s original intention was for Lupe to take the 5.2 km trail around Emerald Lake.  Just NE of the parking lot was a bridge for vehicles over a narrow arm of Emerald Lake.  The bridge led to Emerald Lake Lodge.  Lupe and SPHP crossed the bridge, went past the lodge and all of its cabins or condos, and picked up the trail around the lake.  The trail led around the big SE bay of the lake and then turned N following the E shore.  SPHP purposely chose to go around Emerald Lake counterclockwise in order to stay in the shade of the mountains as long as possible.

Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park, British Columbia
Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park, British Columbia

Emerald Lake, Yoho NP, 7-24-13The forest and undergrowth along the trail was thick and lush.  The trail was often a little distance from the lake shore, so all the vegetation frequently hid the lake from view.  It was still early enough so Lupe met only a few people on the trail along the E shore of Emerald Lake.

At the N end of the lake, the terrain changed.  The trail crossed a stream and left the dense forest behind.  On the other side of the stream, the entire area along the N shore was rocky and nearly flat.  There were only scattered trees and bushes.  The entire area NNE of Emerald Lake was a giant alluvial fan of dirt and rocks deposited by braided streams originating from unseen glaciers in the mountains to the N or NW.

The trail emerged from the dense forest after crossing this stream flowing down to Emerald Lake from the NE.
The trail emerged from the dense forest after crossing this stream flowing down to Emerald Lake from the NE.
Mt. Burgess from the N shore of Emerald Lake. Photo looks SE.
Mt. Burgess (8,491 ft.) (L) from the N shore of Emerald Lake. Photo looks SE.

Lupe was near the NW end of Emerald Lake and about 2/3 of the way around it when she came to a side trail heading NNE to Yoho Pass and Yoho Lake.  From Yoho Lake, SPHP knew Lupe could go on to Takakkaw Falls.  It was tempting.  After some hesitation and actually heading a short distance on past the trail to Yoho Pass, SPHP turned around.  Lupe was going to go back and take the trail to Yoho Lake!

Lupe met a few people on the trail to Yoho Lake, but not too many.  At first, the trail went through scrub forest over a maze of glacier melt streams running down the alluvial fan from NW to SE.  The trail itself headed NNE toward a steep headwall.  When Lupe reached the end of the alluvial fan, the real climb up to Yoho Pass began.  Once the trail started up, it climbed steeply and relentlessly.  Lupe passed close by a big waterfall that had been visible from a distance, and discovered an even more dramatic waterfall above it plunging down from a great height.

The climb up to Yoho Pass seemed long, hot and steep.  Biting flies plagued Lupe and SPHP.  Lupe was happy when very high up she came to some very small streams crossing the trail to drink from.  SPHP was happy when the trail reached the forest and there was finally some shade.  Eventually the trail started leveling out as it got closer to Yoho Pass.

Yoho Pass was beautiful.  There weren’t any views due to the thick, shady forest, but there were lots of wildflowers around.  From the pass, the trail descended gently for 0.7 km to Yoho Lake.  Lots of people were at Yoho Lake.  There is a campground at the lake, and a park ranger was busy giving a large group a guided nature tour.

Lupe reaches Yoho Lake.
Lupe reaches Yoho Lake.

Yoho Lake, Yoho NP 7-24-13Lupe and SPHP avoided all the people by following a trail SE a little way along the shore of Yoho Lake away from the campground.  Lupe and SPHP sat down by the shore to enjoy the view and take a break and enjoy a snack.  Biting flies were annoying, but at least there weren’t any mosquitoes.

The flies were a major distraction.  SPHP was trying to deal with them when suddenly there was a huge splash.  SPHP turned to see that 4 ducks – 2 adults and 2 young ones – were swimming by.  Lupe had charged into the lake, leash and all, after them!  SPHP was amazed.  Normally Lupe won’t enter water where she can’t touch bottom.  She also normally comes when called, but Lupe had duck dinner in mind.  SPHP was alarmed.  This was going to be hard to explain to the park ranger, if Lupe didn’t get out of Yoho Lake quickly.

The ducks had no problem dealing with the situation.  They didn’t even bother to swim away.  Instead the whole duck family swam back and forth as a group flotilla leading the eager, but slow-swimming Carolina Dog on a merry chase.  The ducks acted more like they were expecting to be fed than become dinner themselves.  They wanted to see what SPHP had in the way of snacks.  SPHP convinced Lupe to get out of the lake before hypothermia set in.  Lupe seemed disappointed that duck wasn’t on the menu, but greatly refreshed from her brisk swim in Yoho Lake.

Wapta Mountain from Yoho Lake. Photo looks SSE.
Wapta Mountain (9,127 ft.) from Yoho Lake. Photo looks SSE.

There were a couple of other problems at Yoho Lake.  Although SPHP had led Lupe here thinking it would be fun to go on to Takakkaw Falls, that meant losing a ton of elevation heading down into Yoho Valley.  The more SPHP thought about it, the less SPHP wanted to lose that hard won elevation gained coming up to Yoho Pass, especially since it would all have to be regained again in just a few hours on the return trip.  Furthermore, virtually all of the people arriving at Yoho Lake seemed to be coming up from the trail leading down to Yoho Valley and Takakkaw Falls.  Large groups were coming from that direction.

SPHP’s aversions to crowds and losing elevation made SPHP consider whether or not Lupe should just head back to Emerald Lake, or go on to Takkakaw Falls.  Fortunately, a 3rd option presented itself.  A much less used trail, the Highline Trail heads N from Yoho Lake to the Iceline Trail high up on the W slopes of Yoho Valley.  The Highline Trail actually gains elevation on the way to the Iceline Trail, which appealed to SPHP.  Better yet, SPHP had read good things about the Iceline Trail.  Maybe Takakkaw Falls could be seen across Yoho Valley from the Highline or Iceline trails?

So Lupe took the Highline Trail heading N.  It was a great decision.  At first the Highline Trail climbed steeply, switchbacking around in the forest, but then it leveled out and continued N high up on the ridge forming the W side of Yoho Valley.  Lupe and SPHP heard it first – the distant roar of water plunging off a mountain.  Soon a splendid view of Takakkaw Falls appeared.

Takakkaw Falls from the Highline Trail, Yoho National Park
Takakkaw Falls from the Highline Trail, Yoho National Park

Lupe and SPHP met no one at all on the Highline Trail.  Before reaching the Iceline Trail, the Highline Trail broke out of the forest into the open.  The views were amazing.   When Lupe got to the Iceline Trail, the views got even better!  The Iceline Trail resumed climbing and took Lupe way up above tree line into a stunning world of rock, water, ice, towering peaks and sky.  Lupe started meeting small groups of people again as soon as she hit the Iceline Trail.  It was immediately apparent why they were all here.

Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail. The Daly Glacier which supplies the water is seen high above the falls.
Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail. The Daly Glacier which supplies the water is seen high above the falls.
SPHP wound up with a series of 3 photos of a very happy Lupe hamming it up along the Iceline Trail with Takakkaw Falls in the background.
SPHP wound up with a series of 3 photos of a very happy Lupe hamming it up along the Iceline Trail with Takakkaw Falls in the background.

P1050073P1050074

Ice, streams, rock and sky along the Iceline Trail.
Ice, streams, rock and sky along the Iceline Trail.
Mt. McArthur (L) and Isolated Peak (R) from the Iceline Trail.
Mt. McArthur (9,911 ft.) (L) and Isolated Peak (9,262 ft.) (R of center) from the Iceline Trail.  Photo looks NW.

After a while, the Iceline Trail climbed more slowly.  It went over a series of ridges, each one moderately higher than the last.  Streams rushed down each little valley from the small glaciers a short distance above Lupe and SPHP.  Finally Lupe came to the highest ridge.  She had a view to the NW of Mt. McArthur, Isolated Peak and Whaleback Mountain (8,586 ft.) beyond the deep green valley of the Little Yoho River.

From this highest ridge, a spur from the Iceline Trail led a short distance up onto a barren rocky hill, the highest point along the Iceline Trail.  Lupe and SPHP took the spur trail and reached the summit.  Glaciers could be seen in every direction – the scene was splendid at every point of the compass.  A couple of hikers and their dog joined Lupe and SPHP for a little while at the Iceline Trail high point, but left again.  Lupe and SPHP lingered up there somewhere between 30 minutes and an hour.

Daly Glacier (L) coming down from the Waputik Icefield, Mount Daly (C), and Mount Niles (R) from the Iceline Trail
Daly Glacier (L) coming down from the Waputik Icefield, Mount Daly (10,039 ft.) (Center), and Mount Niles (9,734 ft.) (R) from the Iceline Trail.  Photo looks E.
Looking SE from the Iceline Trail towards the high peaks in the Lake O'Hara area.
Looking SE from the Iceline Trail towards the high peaks in the Lake O’Hara area.
Mt. McArthur (C) and Isolated Peak (R) from the Iceline Trail high point.
Mt. McArthur (C) and Isolated Peak (R) from the Iceline Trail high point with the Little Yoho River valley below.
Mt. McArthur
Mt. McArthur
Lupe at the Iceline Trail high point (summit of the rock hill on the little spur trail). Yoho National Park, Canada 7-24-13
Lupe at the Iceline Trail high point (summit of the rock hill on the little spur trail). Yoho National Park, Canada 7-24-13
Scene from Iceline Trail, Yoho NP 7-24-13
Looking N towards the Yoho Glacier.

By now it was starting to get late in the day.  It was a long way back to Emerald Lake. Lupe and SPHP had to start back.  It was a spectacular, beautiful hike all the way back to the G6.  The weather was perfect, the trail was nearly all downhill, and Lupe was having a blast exploring and sniffing.  Before leaving the high glacier streams, SPHP filled the water bottles with glacier water.  SPHP drank a bunch of it untreated and never had any ill effects from it.

Heading back along the Iceline Trail. Emerald Glacier at right. Photo looks SSE.
Heading back along the Iceline Trail. Emerald Glacier at right. Photo looks SSE.
Trolltinder Mountain (sharp peak in shadow) and Mt. Balfour (highest point) from the Iceline Trail.
Trolltinder Mountain (9,554 ft. – sharp peak in shadow) and Mt. Balfour (10,774 ft. – highest point) from the Iceline Trail.

Iceline Trail, Yoho NP 7-24-13Daly Glacier & Takakkaw Falls from Iceline Trail, Yoho NP 7-24-13

Along the Iceline Trail
Along the Iceline Trail

Once Lupe got back to the Highline Trail, the only people she met all the way back to Emerald Lake were a few near Yoho Lake.  Lupe completed her circumnavigation of Emerald Lake by taking the trail along the W shore back to the G6.  The sun was still shining on the tops of the highest peaks when Lupe and SPHP arrived at 9:38 PM.  Lupe’s 5.2 km trek around Emerald Lake had turned into a 13 hour day.  And what a glorious day it was!

Links:

Next Adventure                   Prior Adventure

Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, Canada (7-26-14)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, Canada (7-26-14)

The Iceline Trail above tree line high up on the south side of Yoho Valley in Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada features tremendous views of glaciers, 260 meter high (850 feet) Takakkaw Falls from across Yoho Valley, and a splendid assortment of impressive peaks of the rugged Canadian Rockies.  Lupe and SPHP both strongly recommend this wonderful medium to long day hike.  Be prepared for plenty of company on pleasant days.  The Iceline Trail is deservedly very popular.

On this day’s hike Lupe and SPHP started from the Takakkaw Falls parking lot off Yoho Valley Road.  The Yoho Valley Road is accessed from Trans-Canada Hwy 1 a few miles NE of the little community of Field along the Kicking Horse River.  Yoho Valley Road is paved, but has a couple of exceptionally sharp hairpin curves.  Taking long vehicles (motorhomes, trailers) up this road is inadvisable.

A mist hung in the air when Lupe arrived at the Takakkaw Falls parking lot around 8:30 AM.  Temps were already comfortably into the 40’s F.  Lupe headed N on the Yoho Valley Trail and was soon out of the mist.  Away from the mist of the falls, the sun was shining in a brilliant blue sky between puffy white clouds and quickly warmed things up.

The Yoho Valley Trail starts in the forest, comes out into a bit of open rocky ground, and then disappears into the forest again as it heads up the Yoho River valley.  Although the trail parallels the river, it is far enough W of it so that the river is seldom visible.

Lupe near Laughing Falls on the Little Yoho River.
Lupe near Laughing Falls on the Little Yoho River.

Lupe stopped by Laughing Falls for a couple of photos.  Not far beyond Laughing Falls she took the Little Yoho Valley Trail heading W in the direction of the Stanley Mitchell hut.  This trail climbed through the forest much more steeply with numerous switchbacks.  Lupe passed the Marpole Lake Trail and before too long again came upon the gorgeous icy blue Little Yoho River.  A short hike in the forest above and along the river brought Lupe to the Celeste Lake Trail, which crossed the Little Yoho River via a good bridge.

Lupe takes a look at Celeste Lake in Yoho National Park, Canada.
Lupe takes a look at Celeste Lake in Yoho National Park, Canada.

Across the river, the Celeste Lake Trail headed SW towards Celeste Lake.  The Celeste Lake Trail continued climbing, but without many switchbacks.  Celeste Lake proved to be a pretty emerald green color and a larger lake than it first appeared.  It had two parts to it hidden from each other by a peninsula jutting out into the lake.  The trail passed just E of Celeste Lake and offered some nice views of it.  Once past Celeste Lake, the trail turned to the SW again and continued climbing.

Along the Celeste Lake Trail above Celeste Lake.
Along the Celeste Lake Trail above Celeste Lake.

Eventually the Celeste Lake trail turned NW as it started to get near tree line.  Soon it took another turn to the SW where the trail left the forest and came out into a fairly level area of green meadows full of wildflowers.  Thin forests rimmed the meadows.  Just beyond and above them to the W were huge piles of loose tan rocks below the solid rock and glacier-covered slopes of The Vice President (10,095 ft.).

The trail headed down a bit into the meadow, turned NW again, and working its way to the W edge of the meadow reached the base of the loose rock piles.  From there the trail headed SSW steadily climbing the rock piles.  Before long it turned W and reached the intersection with the Iceline Trail.

Down along the Yoho Valley Trail there had been some hikers, but along the Little Yoho Valley and Celeste Lake Trails there had been very few.  There were hordes of people along the Iceline Trail though.  Among the throng Lupe met a 74 year old man from San Diego whom she had seen twice before in the past day or two.  He was quite friendly and had suggested the Sherbrooke Lake trail the previous day, which Lupe had taken.

This man had left San Diego in April or May and was traveling (apparently alone) in his RV and hiking trails all over the western USA and Canada.  He said he wouldn’t head back to San Diego until November.  (Now that is a mighty fine way to spend half a year!)  SPHP dawdled along the trail chatting with this interesting gentleman, but never had the presence of mind to get any contact information from him.  While Lupe waited for the conversation to end, at least other doggies came along the Iceline Trail for Lupe to sniff with.

Lupe on the rock pile which is the high point along the Iceline Trail. Mt. McArthur (center left) and Isolation Peak (center right) are separated by a huge snow/ice field.
Lupe on the rock pile which is the high point along the Iceline Trail. Mt. McArthur (9,911 ft.) (center left) and Isolated Peak (9,262 ft.) (center right) are separated by a huge snow/ice field.  The Little Yoho River valley is also in view.

The high point along the Iceline Trail was not far to the N from the intersection with the Celeste Lake Trail.  A relatively short walk took Lupe over there.  A spur of the Iceline Trail climbs up on a tall pile of loose rock a short distance to the E of the main trail.  This tall rock pile was Lupe’s goal for the day and she was soon there.  A few people were up there when she arrived and more kept coming and going.  Lupe rested, had some Taste of the Wild, plenty of water, and relaxed while snapping at a few annoying flies.

View to the S from the Iceline Trail towards the mountains in the O'Hara Lake and Lake Louise region.
View to the S from the Iceline Trail towards the mountains in the Lake O’Hara and Lake Louise region.
Mt. Balfour (center)looms above Trolltinder Mountain (lower left).
Mt. Balfour (10,774 ft.) (center) looms above Trolltinder Mountain (9,554 ft.) (sharp peak below and to the left).

The views from the high point were splendid in every direction.  Immediately to the W were The Vice President and The President (10,246 ft.) although their summits were out of line of sight.  To the N across Little Yoho Valley were Mt. McArthur, Isolated Peak, and Whaleback Mountain (8,586 ft.).  To the E across Yoho Valley were Mount Balfour, Trolltinder Mountain, Lilliput Mountain (9,449 ft.), Mount Daly (10,039 ft.) and Mount Niles (9,751 ft.).

Parts of the Emerald Glacier, Yoho Glacier and Daly Glacier were in view plus many other snow and ice fields clinging to the mountains.  To the S down the Yoho River valley and across the Kicking Horse River Valley were the high snow-capped peaks W of Lake Louise and Lake O’Hara.

Mt. Daly, Nigel Peak and Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park, Canada
Mt. Daly (left center), Mt. Niles (right center) and Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park, Canada.  The Daly Glacier (far left), part of the Waputik Icefield, feeds Takakkaw Falls.

Lupe stayed at the high point enjoying the views for at least an hour, while others came and went.  Sometime between 3:00 PM and 4:00 PM, it was time to head back down.

On the way back, Lupe took the most direct route back to Takakkaw Falls, which was to follow the Iceline Trail past the Celeste Lake Trail and Ridgeline Trail (which goes to Yoho Lake).  Instead, she just headed straight on down a steep trail with many switchbacks that leads to the Whiskey Jack Creek area, and the hostel near Yoho Valley Road.  Lupe was back to the Takakkaw Falls parking lot before 6:00 PM.  Another day well spent in the Canadian Rockies!

Takakkaw Falls and the Yoho River, Yoho National Park, Canada
Takakkaw Falls and the Yoho River, Yoho National Park, Canada

In July, 2013, Lupe had previously reached the Iceline Trail high point via another route, approaching from Emerald Lake and Yoho Lake.  Click here to see Lupe’s post on that adventure!

Links:

Next Adventure                      Prior Adventure

Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-13)

Emerald Lake, Yoho Lake & the Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-24-13)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2014 Canadian Rockies & Beartooths Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.