Illinois Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana/Idaho Border (8-8-21)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8-6-21, 7:51 PM, 52ºF –  Like being in the movie Groundhog Day!  4 weeks after her Dingo Vacation to Wyoming suffered it’s final coup-de-grace at this very spot, Loopster stood again up on the dolomite at High Park Lookout (9,477 ft.).  Cloudier this evening than it had been back then, but otherwise virtually no change.  Still sort of smoky up along the spine of the Bighorns.  Not too bad, but as before, much worse to the SW.

Back at High Park Lookout in the Bighorns at the start of a brand new Dingo Vacation! Photo looks N.

What do you think, SPHP?

Iffy, Loop, real iffy.  We’ll take another look in the morning.

8-7-21, 6:28 AM, 48ºF – Groundhog Day would have been better.  Didn’t Lupe take long to get back up to High Park Lookout, but the effort served more as a morning romp than an attempt to glean any new information.  A red sun already seen rising through the smoky haze from the trailhead had told the tale.

The sun was yellow now, but that made no difference.  Details visible yesterday evening were no longer detectable.  Definitely worse!

Back at High Park Lookout early on 8-7-21. Photo looks NE.

Our goose is cooked, SPHP!

Seems that way, Loop.  Guess we can cross the Bighorns off our list.  Not hanging around for this!

Where are we going then, SPHP?

Good question.  Although back home the Black Hills weren’t on fire, it had been somewhat smoky there, too, for weeks.  Big forest fires were raging all over the American West.  The hoped for monsoon to put an end to it all hadn’t materialized.  Far from it!  2021 was a summer of smoke and fire, with scarcely a drop of rain anywhere out W.

W and N, Loopster!  As far as we can, until the sky turns blue!

Canada!  Alaska!  Oh, joy!

No, not that far N, Loop.  Canada’s still closed.  Covid-19.  Supposed to open up pretty soon, but there are a lot of rules with draconian penalties, and they keep changing with little or no warning.  Would love to, but Canada is out, and that means Alaska is out, too.

What about the Alaska marine highway?

They’ve raised prices, cut service, and they’ve got plenty of new rules, too.  What happens if we get to Alaska and they shut the whole thing down?  We’re really stuck then.  Not going to chance it.

Where are we going to find blue skies then, SPHP?

I don’t know.  Might have to go all the way to the West Coast!  Anyway, c’mon.  Puppy, ho!  We’re done here!

Well, at least Lupe enjoyed some excitement in the Bighorns.  Back at the trailhead, a herd of brown cows had moved in.  The American Dingo was thrilled to see them!  The cows were far less certain about the encounter.

Cows! Beautiful cows! Hesse Mountain (10,385 ft.) (Center). Photo looks E.

Lupe spent the day looking out the window of the RAV4.  Mile after mile rolled by.  Smoke everywhere, but it wasn’t terrible.  Most places, if one looked straight up, the sky was blue.  Toward all horizons, though, the sky was a hazy white.  Air quality was poor, always bad enough to mar the views.

Maybe Lupe really was going to have to go all the way to the West Coast to find any true blue skies?  Seemed that way.  Loop hadn’t been to the West Coast since her very first Dingo Vacation back in August, 2012, when she’d been with Lanis in his Honda Element.  She’d had a blast!

As the RAV4 sped onward, peak after peak got crossed off Lupe’s list of possibilities.  After passing Anaconda, a glimmer of hope appeared.  W of Deer Lodge, Mount Powell soared against a clear, blue sky!  Might be just a pocket of good air, though.  Smoke was still visible ahead to the N.

Perhaps not!  Well before the RAV4 reached Missoula, puffy white clouds were plying a sky that was a beautiful blue in all directions.

Hey, hey, Loopster!  Look at this!  Nirvana!  Maybe we’ve arrived?

Fabulous, SPHP!  What’s the next peak on my list?

Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.)!  Right on the Montana/Idaho border.  Looks like we’ll have to leave I-90 at Superior.  That’s well past Missoula.

Oh, we’ve never climbed a mountain in Idaho before, have we, SPHP?

Nope.  You’ve been to Idaho, but we haven’t climbed any mountains there yet.  Illinois Peak will be the first, although we’ll be in Montana the whole way to it.

8-7-21, 6:30 PM, Superior – After leaving I-90, 2 L turns got the RAV4 to an underpass.  Beyond it, whatever street this was came to a “T”.  A L here onto Hwy 257, and Lupe was heading SE.  1.5 miles from the “T”, SPHP pulled over to let the American Dingo out.  A big sign with an arrow pointing R said Cedar Creek Road 320.

Superior, Montana. At the turn onto Cedar Creek Road No. 320. Photo looks SE.

No. 320!  That’s what we want, Looper!

No. 320 headed SW up the Cedar Creek valley.  The first 1.5 miles were paved, but it was a good smooth road even after that.  At about 6 miles there was a fork.  Staying to the L, another fork was reached roughly 14 miles from the start.  Here SPHP turned L onto No. 388, which crossed a bridge over Cedar Creek.

Roughly 14 miles from the start of No. 320 at the L turn onto No. 388. Photo looks SW.

No. 388 was a much narrower road, but still decent.  4 miles on it, the last part of which was quite a steep climb after passing a mine on the L, got Lupe to Freezeout Pass.

8-7-21, 7:37 PM, 67ºF – Roads left Freezeout Pass in 4 directions.  SPHP stashed the RAV4 at the first one on the R, which was an abandoned spur.  Way too late to start for Illinois Peak, but Lupe explored the spur for 0.4 mile, which was quite level as it wound W along the N side of HP6466.  For the most part, forest hid the views.  A glimpse to the NW wasn’t encouraging.

Uh-oh, SPHP!  Look at how smoky it is out there!

Yeah.  No telling what tomorrow is going to bring, Looper.  Too late now to do anything other than hope we aren’t smoked out in the morning.

Confidence wasn’t all that high that wouldn’t be the case.

8-8-21, Dawn – A strange sound as SPHP came to.  Hadn’t heard that in eons!  Could it be?  Flipping on a light, it was!  Rain!  Not heavy, but steady.  Well, back to sleep.  Lupe wasn’t going anywhere for a while.  The Blue Cookie Monster rain poncho had finally met its match back in June at Bruce Mountain in the Bighorns.  No rain gear along on this Dingo Vacation at all.  SPHP hadn’t seen any need to replace it, since rain was extinct.

8-8-21, 10:59 AM, 51ºF, Freezeout Pass – Not entirely!  Rained most of the morning.  Puddles and everything, just like the real deal!  The Carolina Dog had been bored, but she’d survived.  The more widespread this rain was, the better!  Maybe it had put a few fires out?  Wouldn’t that be nice?

Definitely cleared any smoke away here!  The rain seemed to be about over, although a lingering problem with clouds and fog remained.

Never happy, are we, Loop?

Oh, yes we are, SPHP!  Practically all the time, as long as we get our daily minor miracle!  Are you ready to go yet?

Yup!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Looper left Freezeout Pass heading SW over a mound of dirt, then on up a broad dirt path.  The rain had stopped so recently that the forest was still dripping.  Surprisingly, the path was still firm underpaw, not muddy at all.  Soon the path was covered with a carpet of short pine needles.

About to leave Freezeout Pass. Photo looks SW.

Roughly 0.25 mile and 250 feet up to HP6466 went quickly.  Got a little steep shortly before the trail leveled out up top.  Evidently this path had been some sort of a road at one time.  Sort of nice, since it was wide enough to easily avoid contact with all the wet vegetation.

No views at all.  Seemed a bit foggy, so there wouldn’t have been any even if there hadn’t been any trees.  Lupe trotted happily along the damp lane through the rich green forest like Toto on the way to the Emerald City.

On the way to HP6466. Photo looks SW.

HP6466 was quite flat on top.  No obvious high point.  Eventually the path began to slope down.  Heading SSW at first, it soon curved W.  So far, there hadn’t been any obstacles, but Lupe now began coming to some deadfall.  Not all that much of it, but what there was, was big!

Encountering some deadfall beyond HP6466. Fortunately, there wasn’t much of it! Photo looks W.

The wide path bottomed out at a saddle along the broad ridge Lupe was following.  At this point, the former road ended, with only a single track trail continuing on from here.  Staying along the S side of the ridge, the single track immediately started gaining elevation.  Loop and SPHP were both soon soaking wet due to the vegetation pressing in from both sides.

Although the trail climbed much more rapidly than wide path had lost elevation on the way down from HP6466, it wasn’t climbing rapidly enough to stay up on the ridgeline.  Big rock formations could sometimes be seen 40 to 80 feet above the steep slope the trail was traversing.

On the single track on the S side of the ridge. Photo looks W.

Despite the rock formations above and steepness of the slope, the trail really wasn’t very rocky at all.  Lupe came to only one minor knob of rock.  There was a clearing here, with views of the North Fork of Trout Creek valley to the S.  Clouds hid the mountaintops.  Unsurprisingly, looking ahead, Illinois Peak was shrouded in fog, too.

By the only little knob of rock along the trail. HP6466 (L). North Fork of Trout Creek valley (R). Photo looks ESE.
Fog (L) where Illinois Peak ought to be. Photo looks WNW.

The trail kept climbing at a good clip, and finally reached the ridgeline again.  Apparently, Lupe was already past the big knobs.  According to the topo map, the trail should have gone right over HP6760 along in here, but in reality, remained 20 feet lower, bypassing it to the S.

It’s so close, we really ought to visit HP6760, SPHP!

Alrighty, let’s do it!

Took only a few minutes backtracking to the E up on the ridgeline to get there.  Trees hid the views to the S, but Lupe did get a cloudy view of a series of forested ridges to the N.

At HP6760. Photo looks NNW.

W of HP6760, the trail gradually dipped again.  Progress was rapid.  Soon, however, the American Dingo was climbing fairly aggressively again.  Once again, the trail stayed S of the ridgeline.  Fog was always just ahead, but Loop never quite seemed to reach it.  The cloud cover was rising just as fast.

With a little luck, maybe we’ll actually get to see something from Illinois Peak, SPHP!

Wouldn’t that be nice?  Hope you’re right Looper!

Loop was at least as high as HP6760 again, when suddenly there were ripe blueberries right along the trail.  The Carolina Dog had passed a few earlier on, too, but these blueberries were bigger, sweeter, and more scrumpdiddlyicous.  Wasn’t long before progress came to a screeching halt, as SPHP became willingly ensnared in the blueberry trap.

While SPHP was thus engaged, the American Dingo raced away down the slope.  She charged back up a few minutes later, panting hard.

Saved you, SPHP!

Oh, really?  Thank you very much, Looper!  Saved me from what?

A flock of bears!  They wanted to take over this same blueberry patch.  Said it was theirs to begin with.

Dingo feathers!  No such thing as a flock of bears!  At least, there better not be!

Are you done with the blueberries yet, SPHP?  Even I can only hold a flock of bears off for so long, you know.

Umm, pretty soon, Loopster.  No real rush is there?  Need to give Illinois Peak a little longer to emerge from the clouds, anyway, don’t we?  Why don’t you try a few blueberries yourself?  You’ll love ’em!  Very healthy, too!  All organic, and super fresh.

Carolina Dogs don’t eat blueberries, SPHP.

Why not?  Some dogs do!  Remember that incredible video Dave Metz made about traversing the Brooks Range in Alaska?  What an adventure!  His dogs ate blueberries to stay alive.

Jimmy got sick and died, SPHP.  Probably blueberry poisoning!

Blueberry poisoning!  Jimmy got cancer, not blueberry poisoning!  Dave Metz said so.

You can live dangerously, if you want to, SPHP, but I’m not taking any chances.  Hurry it up with the blueberries, though.  We’ve got a mountain to climb, you know!

W of HP6760, starting up again. Photo looks WSW.
Part of the blueberry trap.
Guarding against any incoming flocks of bears while SPHP gorges. HP6760 (Center). North Fork of Trout Creek valley (R). Photo looks E.

SPHP finally got going again.  The clouds were lifting, but even with the blueberry delay, fog was still ahead.  The trail climbed steadily, steepest pace so far, but it still wasn’t all that bad.  More and more open terrain appeared as the forest thinned out.

Beyond the blueberries, still climbing toward the fog. Photo looks W.

Lupe never did reach the fog, which kept retreating up the mountain.  The rate of ascent began to diminish.  After going over a little lip, a broad grassy region rose gradually toward the NW, where a cairn was visible not too far away.

Getting close to the top! Photo looks SW.
Approaching the cairn (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

When Lupe got there, she found two concrete steps to nowhere a few feet SE of the cairn.  The obvious true summit of Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.), a 3 foot high rock outcropping, was 10 feet N of it.  Two American flags protruded from the cairn, and 2 gnomes holding watering cans huddled together at its base, facing W.

The cairn was hollow, and a white plastic bottle with an orange cap could be seen inside.  Conditions were blustery here, with gray clouds scudding along only a little overhead, driven by a chilly SW breeze.  A brief moment of triumph was endured by the Carolina Dog atop the true summit, after which SPHP retrieved the white bottle from the cairn, plus an intact Nature Valley granola bar from off the top concrete step, before retreating to the E side of the little summit ridge.

Sitting down a bit below the summit’s crest, at least somewhat protected from the wind, Lupe clearly approved this maneuver.  The granola bar, however, once opened proved to be a little stale.  Evidently not up to high-falutin’ Dingo standards.  Using her nose, Lupe started to bury her share of the prize.  SPHP wasn’t so picky.

Arriving at the summit cairn in somewhat blustery conditions. Photo looks E.
Success! At the true summit of Illinois Peak. Photo looks SSE.
The registry bottle.

Open the bottle, SPHP, so you can sign the registry for me, and we can see what else might be inside.

In addition to the registry, there were quite a few other items – a plastic snake, fake gold and silver coins, a 9-11 fraudulent event note left by someone who wasn’t overly impressed with former President Bush, and business cards left by Tom & Gail Randall, who had started this registry less than a year ago on 8-28-20 in memory of their friend Randy Oliver.

The registry was an orange spiral notebook that barely fit into the white bottle.  Lupe’s was only the 3rd entry after Tom & Gail’s.

Conditions gradually improved.  After a nice 40 minute long break spent sheltering by the little summit ridge, moments of sunshine and blue sky were becoming more frequent.  Time to get up and have a look around!  Still plenty of clouds, but they were higher now, making it possible to see the views.

On the top concrete step to nowhere. Photo looks S.
Back on the now sunny true summit. Photo looks NW.
Exploring the grassy summit region, which was a good 2 acres in size. Photo looks SE.
Looking SSE with a little help from the telephoto lens.

Gold Crown Peak (7,374 ft.) was visible only a mile to the W.  If Lupe had gotten an earlier start, she would have visited it, too.  With a name like that, it had to be a peak worthy of an American Dingo’s presence!

Gold Crown Peak (Center). Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Returning to the true summit and venturing N, a second cairn was found only 25 feet away.  Some of the best views were in this direction.

At the true summit again. Photo looks NE.
True summit of Illinois Peak. Still breezy. Photo looks ENE.
Looking NNW from the gnome cairn and true summit.
Same view, but from the N cairn. Photo looks NNW.

80 feet ESE of the gnome cairn was another rocky ridge not far from where Lupe had come up the mountain.  This E outcropping was bigger than the one at the true summit.  SPHP was surprised when Lupe found the Illinois Peak survey benchmark there.

Loop at the E rock outcropping. Quartz Benchmark (7,770 ft.) (R). Photo looks ESE.
Illinois Peak survey benchmark.
Another angle. Photo looks ENE.
Looking SSW across much of the summit region.

A brief return to the true summit, and it was time to go.  An hour and 20 minutes after arriving, Lupe headed back down the trail.  Dark clouds still swept past now and then, but didn’t dampen the mood for long.

Final moments atop Illinois Peak. Photo looks WNW.
Heading down amid the pom-pom plants. HP6760 (Center) in the foreground beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.
Pom-Pom plants, or more scientifically, Pomus-Pomus planti.

The coast was clear!  No flying flocks of bears!  SPHP managed to tank up on blueberries again, despite Lupe’s disinterest.  The American Dingo revisited HP6760, and got to see considerably more this time.  The best part of the return, though, was a final satisfying look back at Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.), no longer shrouded in fog and mist.

Blueberry trap, round 2. Delicious!
Back at HP6760. Photo looks NW.
A fond farewell to Illinois Peak (Center). Photo looks W.

8-8-21, 4:14 PM, 55ºF, Freezeout Pass

That was fun, SPHP!  Turned out OK, didn’t it?  Just think, my first ascent of a peak in Idaho!  Plus credit for a Montana ascent, as well!

Yeah!  Illinois Peak, didn’t disappoint, although it was looking iffy there early on.  Glad the cloud cover lifted enough to get to see the views.

Loopster was back from Illinois Peak early enough to enjoy an evening drive.  Took a while to get back down to I-90 again at Superior.  From there, it wasn’t far to St. Regis where SPHP left I-90 again, taking Hwy 135 down to Hwy 200 and Paradise.  This was all new territory, and very beautiful.  NW of Thompson Falls, Lupe took a sunset stroll featuring a look at the Noxon Reservoir on the Clark Fork river.

Noxon Reservoir from close to the Hwy 200 bridge over the Clark Fork river. Photo looks NW.

Dusk was deepening by the time SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Pillick Ridge trailhead a mile off Hwy 56.  Illinois Peak had gotten Lupe’s Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast off to a great start!  Dinner, then time to recharge for the next adventure tomorrow.

Illinois Peak, Bitterroot Range, Idaho/Montana border 8-8-21

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Dry Falls & Crossing the Columbia River, WA (8-19-12)

Day 12 of Lupe’s 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast.

Lupe and SPHP went down to Howard Lake early in the morning before Lanis was up.  The lake was calm and quiet.  Even the fishermen weren’t up yet.  Perfect!  Lupe and SPHP took the single track trail heading S along the E shore.

Lupe saw ducks floating peacefully on the lake.  She crossed a tiny inlet stream.  Near the S end of the lake, the trail left the shoreline and went back into the cedar forest.  A large crane was spooked by SPHP’s approach, and flew away with a great flapping of wings.  Lupe found a few early-rising squirrels.  SPHP did as much as possible to discourage her from barking at this early hour.

Looking back to the N, it was possible to see some of the higher mountains to the NW Lupe had seen the evening before on the mysterious Great Northern Mountain Trail No. 117.  At the very S end of the lake, Lupe crossed another small inlet stream, shortly before reaching the broad cedar-lined trail on the W side of the lake.

By the time Lupe and SPHP had completed their circumnavigation of Howard Lake, Lanis was stirring.  It was time to break camp, and continue W.  Lupe was soon on her way.  NW of Libby, a huge beautiful river, the Kootenai, flowed NW paralleling Hwy 2.  Near Troy; Lanis, Lupe and SPHP turned S on Hwy 56 in order to go see the Ross Creek Scenic Area Giant Cedars.

The turn for the Giant Cedars off Hwy 56 was 0.5 mile S of Bull Lake.  The side road ended at a trailhead 4 miles from the highway.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP all took the 1 mile loop trail through the towering forest.  A small creek meandered through the area, and the trail crossed it several times.  The ancient western red cedars had huge trunks.  Ferns and moss grew between the monstrous trees.  The forest felt prehistoric, like a dinosaur could come crashing along at any time.  Lupe hadn’t been allowed to go on the Trail of the Cedars in Glacier National Park, but the Ross Creek Scenic Area Giant Cedars had to be just as impressive.

Lupe’s travels continued.  Hwy 200 took her W into Idaho for the 1st time.  Idaho became the 4th Lupe state!  Soon huge Lake Pend Oreille was in view SW of the highway.  At the N end of Pend Oreille, 3 bears ran across the road, right in broad daylight.  They were gone in a flash.  At Sandpoint, Lupe got back on Hwy 2 again.  Washington became the 5th Lupe state.  The American Dingo’s empire was expanding rapidly!

Hwy 2 took Lupe through Spokane, and then out onto barren plains in eastern Washington state.  The area is probably quite pretty at other times of the year, but in late August it felt like a desert.  It had been 95°F back in Sandpoint, ID, and it wasn’t any less out here.  The sun beat down mercilessly.

The Element was air conditioned, of course.  Lupe rode in comfort past yellow wheat fields, and many black fields that had burned or been plowed under.  Dust devils whirled across the desolate landscape.  Far to the N, mountains were on the horizon.  To the S, there was nothing.

SPHP had bought a fried chicken at Safeway in Spokane.  The plan had been to eat it at a city park in one of the little towns along the way.  However, there didn’t seem to be any parks.  Lupe passed through Deep Creek, Reardon and Davenport, and found nothing.  On the way to Creston, there was a forlorn rest area with a couple of picnic tables.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP devoured the chicken there, but there wasn’t a green blade of grass anywhere.  The place was like an oven.

Of course, at Creston there was a pretty nice little park, but with the chicken already gone, there was no longer a reason to stop.  Lupe continued W.  Past Coulee City, Lanis turned SW on Hwy 17.  Soon Lupe came to a most amazing sight – Dry Falls.  Lanis and SPHP had never even heard of Dry Falls before, but there was a parking area and a little visitor center right next to Hwy 17.  Lupe, Lanis and SPHP stopped to take in the scene.

Dry Falls is thought by some to have been the site of the mightiest waterfall ever known. At the end of the last ice age, it is estimated there were recurring floods here with a volume of water 10 times that of all the rivers in the world combined!
Dry Falls is thought by some to have been the site of the mightiest waterfall ever known. At the end of the last ice age, it is estimated there were recurring floods here with a volume of water 10 times that of all the rivers in the world combined!

On the opposite side of a chain link fence were sheer 400 foot cliffs down to a broad canyon below.  As the name implies, there is no giant waterfall at Dry Falls now, but the huge canyon downstream is thought to have been carved by recurring flooding on a cataclysmic scale at the end of the last ice age.  A volume of water 10 times that of all the rivers now in the world combined plunged over a precipice 5 times as wide as Niagara Falls.

The canyon below Dry Falls.
The canyon below Dry Falls.

Hwy 17 eventually sloped down into the canyon several miles downstream of Dry Falls, and went past a series of lakes.  At Sun Lakes State Park, lots of people were actively boating, swimming and camping.  Of all the lakes, Lenore Lake was the largest.  Hwy 17 went for miles along its E shore.

Lenore Lake is the largest lake in the Dry Falls canyon, but is miles downstream from the falls. This photo looks back upstream toward the N.
Lenore Lake is the largest lake in the Dry Falls canyon, but is miles downstream from the falls. This photo looks back upstream toward the N.
Lenore Lake in the canyon downstream of Dry Falls. Photo looks S (downstream).
Lenore Lake in the canyon downstream of Dry Falls. Photo looks S (downstream).

The entire canyon below Dry Falls was close to 20 miles long.  Along the way, the canyon walls slowly became less impressive, gradually fading away completely before reaching Soap Lake.

From Soap Lake; Lupe, Lanis and SPHP took Hwy 283 SW to I-90.  Pretty soon, Lupe came to another river gorge, that of the mighty Columbia River.

Lupe crossed the Columbia River on this I-90 bridge.
Lupe crossed the Columbia River on this I-90 bridge.
The Columbia River.
The Columbia River.

The light started slowly fading as Lupe, Lanis and SPHP rolled on W of the Columbia River.  Suddenly it didn’t feel like it was too much farther to Puget Sound and Seattle.  Off to the N of I-90, an impressive mountain came into view in the distance.  SPHP figured it was probably Mt. Stuart.

The bright searing heat of eastern Washington state was gone.  Clouds hung over the Wenatchee mountains ahead.  It was much cooler and foggy as Lupe went over 3,022 ft. Snoqualmie Pass.  Darkness fell.  Near Lake Sammamish State Park; Lupe, Lanis and SPHP stopped for the night.  Lupe was almost to Seattle.  Tomorrow, Lupe would see the ocean!

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