Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-5-19, 8:10 AM, Black Hills, SD – Late, late, late!  Days late, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was finally underway!  Hitting I90, the G6 rapidly gathered speed.  Thousands of miles to go.  Time to make tracks!  Lupe would have opportunities for adventures along the way, but she couldn’t dilly-dally too much.  Summer ends early in the Arctic!

Bright-eyed and alert, the Carolina Dog was ready for action!  Barking at cows, horses, suspicious haystacks and outbuildings would be about it, though, for a while.  Stops were infrequent and brief as the G6 cruised N & W along a familiar route.

Back in Wyoming! A sure sign of good times ahead! At the Moorcroft, WY I90 rest area, Lupe’s first chance to stretch after setting out on a brand new Dingo Vacation.

5:30 PM, Kings Hill Pass, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Skies had been crisp and clear all day, but the air was smokey at Kings Hill Pass.  No matter!  This was the day’s only real chance to get out and explore.  Lupe wasn’t about to miss out!  She had her choice of a relatively easy ascent of either Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

Kings Hill Pass is a favorite stop on the way to Canada, so Loopster had already been to both multiple times.  It had been a couple of years since she’d been to Porphyry Peak.  Why not?  The road trek to the lookout tower at the summit was under 2 miles.  Squirrels along the way were the highlight.  Smoke from distant fires marred the views from the top.

On Porphyry Peak.

8:28 PM, Hwy 89, Al Buck Memorial Park – Last stop of the day.  Trees and picnic tables, plus a spring that gushed out of the base of a hillside.  Lupe helped herself to a drink.  After sniffing around a bit and a bite to eat, time to call it a night.

Getting refreshed at Al Buck Memorial Park N of the Little Belt Mountains.

8-6-19 – The next day was even less exciting.  Mile after mile rolled by.  Plenty of big fields, but hardly any cows or horses.

At 10:55 AM, Lupe went through Canadian customs, a snoozer of an event if ever there was one.  A stop at a picnic ground N of Carmangay overlooking the sluggish Little Bow River was pleasant enough, but didn’t last long.  Calgary was the usual traffic-clogged madhouse.  Even the Canadian Rockies were a bit of a disappointment.  Heavily overcast, drippy and cool, it felt like summer was already long gone.

By evening Lupe had made it to lovely Bow Lake in Banff National Park, departure point for several fabulous past adventures.  However, the mood was subdued and forlorn.

Bow Lake.

8-7-19 –  No change.  Breakfast at Bow Lake was a foggy affair.  After 2 long days on the road, a real adventure was in order, but it didn’t look like Loop was in luck.  Might as well keep driving N.

Going over Bow Summit on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 a short while later, the situation appeared much more promising.  Fog lingered down in the Mistaya River valley, but pale blue skies were overhead!

Heading into the Mistaya River valley after crossing Bow Summit. Photo looks NNW.

The weather continued to improve.  Going to be a gorgeous day after all!  SPHP stopped at the Coleman Creek picnic ground to get the pack ready, then accompanied Lupe to the North Saskatchewan River for a quick look around.

By the North Saskatchewan River. Photo looks SSE.

The beautiful river enhanced by the sun’s warmth was inspiring!

Oh, it’s a day made for adventure, SPHP!  We’re here in the fabulous Canadian Rockies.  Isn’t there something we can do?

Absolutely, Loopster!  Remember the Canadians we followed up Mount Jimmy Simpson last year?  One of the places they recommended was Tangle Ridge.  It’s not much farther, and supposed to be a great day hike.  Want to check it out?

Sounds terrific!  Let’s do it!  Anything to get out of the G6 for a while.

Going up and over Sunwapta Pass, Lupe went by the starting points of many great adventures she’d had in years past.  Trailheads for Panther Falls, Nigel Pass, Parker Ridge, Wilcox Pass, and the Athabasca Glacier were all right along Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 or close to it.

Once past the Athabasca Glacier, SPHP started looking for Tangle Falls.  The cascade came into sight on the R (NE) side of the highway about 7 km later.  A pullout was on the opposite side of the road.  SPHP parked the G6, and Lupe headed over to check out the falls.  (10:32 AM, 52ºF)

Tangle Falls in Jasper National Park. Photo looks ENE.
This is more like it!

Tangle Falls consisted of a series of waterfalls rather than one great big one, but the overall effect was still quite impressive.  Being right next to the highway, Tangle Falls was a busy place.  However, while there was a sign for the falls right along the road, there didn’t seem to be one for any trail to Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.).

After admiring the falls for a few minutes, Lupe set out in search of a trail.  SE of Tangle Falls (uphill) on the same side of the highway she soon discovered an abandoned jeep or ATV route on top of an embankment.  A small sign here said 7.5 km to Wilcox Pass.  This had to be it!  Access to Tangle Ridge was somewhere off this trail.

At the start of the Wilcox Pass trail near Tangle Falls. Photo looks SE.
7.5 km to Wilcox Pass, but the Tangle Ridge route would leave this trail long before Lupe got that far.

Paralleling Icefield Parkway Hwy 93, the Wilcox Pass trail went uphill heading SE.  The trail began above the highway, and climbed fast enough to steadily increase the gap as both Tangle Falls and Tangle Creek were left behind.  Although Lupe had been to Wilcox Pass before, she’d always started from the other end of the Wilcox Pass trail which begins near the Wilcox campground.  She’d never been here before.

Near Tangle Falls the Wilcox Pass trail starts out as an abandoned jeep or ATV route. Photo looks SE.

The trail soon curved E (L) away from the highway and narrowed to a typical single track.  For a short distance the trail was fairly level, but once it turned NE (L again), Lupe found herself on an increasingly steep ascent in a dense forest.

Heading up into the forest. Photo looks NE.

After a good climb, the trail emerged from the trees nearly leveling out as it traversed a steep open slope filled with wildflowers.  This meadow wasn’t large, but already provided views hinting at what might be in store higher up.

At the first opening, a steep flower-filled meadow with views hinting at what was to come. Photo looks N.
Looking W from the meadow.
Mount Athabasca (L) and Mount Andromeda (R). Photo looks SSE.

Beyond the steep meadow, the trail re-entered the forest.  Almost right away, Lupe caught a glimpse of Tangle Creek far down in a valley with Tangle Ridge looming high above it.

Back in the forest. Photo looks ENE.
First glimpse of Tangle Ridge. Photo looks N.

The Wilcox Pass trail continued higher in spurts winding generally E or NE with level or even short downhill sections in between.  Tangle Creek was out of sight in a valley to the N, but could sometimes be heard.  15 minutes after catching that first glimpse of Tangle Ridge, Lupe reached Tangle Creek.

By Tangle Creek close to where the Wilcox Pass trail first reaches it. Photo looks ESE.

The topo map showed a massive arm of Tangle Ridge coming S down to Tangle Creek from the summit.  Somewhere along in here Lupe needed to leave the Wilcox Pass trail and cross over to the N side of the creek, but exactly where to do that wasn’t clear.  Was there a spur trail, or maybe even a bridge?

The trail continued E along the S side of Tangle Creek, so Lupe followed it a little farther.  N of the stream a huge forested slope was in sight, but that was about it.  However, Lupe did come to several small cairns next to the trail.  Exactly what they signified wasn’t clear.  No side trails were evident, nor any bridges across Tangle Creek.

By one of the little cairns that appeared shortly after reaching Tangle Creek. Photo looks E.

Lupe went far enough E to see a tributary entering Tangle Creek from the N.  The map showed she shouldn’t go any further.  Needing to stay W of that tributary, the Carolina Dog turned around and went back.  This time, upon getting close to where the trail first reached Tangle Creek, SPHP noticed a large cairn sitting on an embankment N of the stream.

Hmm.  Maybe Lupe ought to cross Tangle Creek right here to go check out that big cairn?  The stream was easily fordable, and might even be rock-hopped.  SPHP was still pondering when suddenly a hiker appeared near the big cairn.  He proceeded down to Tangle Creek, crossed it, then stopped to chat with SPHP.

The hiker was a young man from Edmonton.  He’d already been up to Tangle Ridge – a long, steep climb, but well worth it.  The views up top were stunning!  He provided some excellent advise:

Cross Tangle Creek here.  From the big cairn, follow a faint trail going NE marked by several smaller cairns.  Should wind up close to the W edge of a big ravine that a tributary of Tangle Creek comes down from the N.  The trail will improve as it climbs steadily along or close to the edge of the ravine, before eventually fading away again above tree line.  By then the route is obvious – just keep going up!

With that, after thanks from SPHP, the hiker disappeared down the Wilcox Pass trail.

So we cross Tangle Creek here, SPHP?

Yup.  Think we were about to figure it all out on our own, Loop, but that was some great beta.  No doubt about it now.  Sounds pretty simple!

Onward, then!  SPHP, ho!

Loop about to cross Tangle Creek. The big cairn (not pictured off the R edge) was visible from here up on an embankment on the opposite side of the creek. Photo looks NW.

Lupe easily forded the stream, while SPHP managed to rock-hop it.  Up at the big cairn, the faint trail didn’t amount to much at all, but the American Dingo sniffed it out, and SPHP did notice a few little cairns along the way.  The route was nearly level as it paralleled Tangle Creek, but soon it turned NE starting to gain elevation.

Before long, Lupe was at the W edge of the ravine overlooking Tangle Creek’s tributary from the N.  At first she wasn’t all that high above the tributary, maybe 20 or 30 feet, but as the trail turned N following the ravine, it began a steep ascent.  Soon the ravine was a deep valley, with the creek far below the precipitous sharp edge the trail ran along.

Heading up the W edge of the deep ravine. Photo looks NNE.

Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) came into view back to the SE as Lupe gained elevation.

Mount Wilcox (Center). Photo looks SE.

The hiker from Edmonton was right!  The trail was now quite distinct and easy to follow.  Once in a while it veered NW off into the forest, but it seldom strayed far from the edge of the huge ravine.

Onward and upward!  The ascent was relentlessly steep, a problem now compounded by the appearance of hordes of mosquitoes.  Lupe wanted to stop and take refuge under small trees or bushes, but the bloodthirsty insects found her wherever she tried to hide.  SPHP urged Loop onward, since movement helped to stay ahead of the swarm, but frequently had to stop to gasp for breath, causing the American Dingo to seek shelter again during each pause.

Tangle Ridge was 1,000 meters, roughly 3,300 feet, higher than where Lupe crossed Tangle Creek.  The forest seemed to go on forever, but at last tree line was reached.  The trail now angled NW away from the ravine out onto open terrain where there were a few rock outcroppings.  The mosquitoes remained bad, but the views to the S were already tremendous!

Tree line. Lupe hides out under the small tree (L of Center). Mount Wilcox (L) and Mount Andromeda (Center) with Mount Athabasca between them. Photo looks SSE.
Nigel Peak (L of Center), Mount Wilcox (R) and Mount Athabasca (far R). Photo looks SE.
Mount Wilcox (L), Mount Athabasca (Center) and Mount Andromeda (R). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

The trail faded away, and thankfully the mosquitoes disappeared, too, as Lupe got above the last of the vegetation.  The Carolina Dog had already gained the vast majority of the elevation required to reach the top of Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.), but there was still a considerable trudge higher yet to go on a barren scree slope.  Lupe perked up and roamed as she pleased.  Any route higher would do.

Approaching the end of the greenery. Photo looks N.
On the scree slope. Photo looks N.
Another look back. Mount Wilcox (L) and Mount Andromeda (Center) with Mount Athabasca between them. Sunwapta River valley (Center). Snow Dome (R) and part of Mount Kitchener (R edge). Photo looks SSE.
Not far from the top now. Another part of Tangle Ridge (L) and Nigel Peak (R). Photo looks SE.

Near the top of Tangle Ridge, Loopster started coming to snowbanks.  She found a big one draped over the summit next to an assortment of communications equipment.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks W.
The communications equipment comes into sight. Photo looks NW.
Mount Athabasca (L) and Mount Andromeda (R) from the summit. Photo looks SSE.
At the true summit of Tangle Ridge. Photo looks SE.
Tangle Ridge summit region. Nigel Peak (R). Photo looks SE.

What a tremendous vantage point Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.) was!  In all directions Lupe enjoyed visions of glory – a sea of mighty mountains, many snow or glacier-clad, stretching away as far as the eye could see!

Sunwapta Peak (10,892 ft.) was almost due N.  Far beyond it toward the L was another prominent peak – Mount Henry MacLeod (10,876 ft.)?  SPHP wasn’t sure, but was more confident that a distant high ridge to the R was Poboktan Mountain (10,892 ft.).

Sunwapta Peak (Center). Mount Henry MacLeod (far L)? Poboktan Mountain (R of Sunwapta) in the distance. Photo looks N.
Mount Henry MacLeod (Center)? Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Sunwapta Peak (L) and Poboktan Mountain (Center). Photo looks NNE.

A dramatic lower ridge extended NW from the Tangle Ridge summit.  Straight out from this ridge were some wild-looking peaks, but SPHP didn’t know any of them.  Looking slightly to the R (NNW), Lupe had a commanding view of a long stretch of the Sunwapta River valley.

Looking down along Tangle Ridge’s NW ridge (R). Diadem Peak (11,155 ft.) (far L).  Photo looks NW.
Sunwapta River valley (Center). Photo looks NNW.
Another look at Tangle Ridge’s NW ridge. Photo looks NW.
Zoomed in on the wild-looking unknown peaks. Photo looks NW.

To the E the mountains were a bit lower and less dramatic.  A small lake was visible down in a deep canyon, but SPHP didn’t recognize any of the surrounding mysterious peaks.

Looking ENE.

More familiar territory was to the SE where Wilcox Lake nestled below Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.).  Wilcox Pass, a favorite spot Lupe had been to several times before for a fabulous view of the Athabasca Glacier, was also in sight along with Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.).

Wilcox Pass (Center). Nigel Peak and Wilcox Lake (L). Mount Wilcox and snow-clad Mount Athabasca (R). Photo looks SE.
Nigel Peak (Center) and Wilcox Lake. Photo looks SE.
Nigel Peak and Wilcox Lake. Photo looks SE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Only the toe of the Athabasca Glacier was visible from Tangle Ridge, but many surrounding peaks were familiar.  Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,352 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,499 ft.) were all Lupe favorites.

Mount Athabasca (L) and Mount Andromeda (R). The toe of the Athabasca Glacier is visible at (Center). Mount Wilcox (lower L). Photo looks SSE.
Mount Athabasca (Center) and Mount Wilcox (lower L). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on Mount Andromeda (L). Photo looks S.
Little Andromeda (10,925 ft.) (L).
Mount Kitchener (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Some of the most spectacular views from Tangle Ridge were of a series of tremendous peaks off to the W.  SPHP couldn’t identify any of them.  For a long time Lupe and SPHP sat together facing this awesome panorama.  Studying maps later on yielded at least some answers.

Most impressive of all, Mount Alberta (11,870 ft.) stood farthest W.  Somewhat closer toward the R (N) were Mount Woolley (11,286 ft.) and Diadem Peak (11,155 ft.)Mushroom Peak (10,499 ft.) situated in front of Diadem blended into the scene.

Mount Alberta (far L), Mount Woolley (L) and Diadem Peak (Center). Photo looks W.
Diadem Peak (L) with Mushroom Peak in front of it. Photo looks NW.

Little Alberta (9,711 ft.) and Mount Cromwell (10,958 ft.) stood L (S) of Mount Alberta.  Next to the S came the massive snowy plateau of Stutfield Peak (11,319 ft.).  Beyond and S of Stutfield were North Twin (12,247 ft.), highest of all, but only the top of which could be seen, and the dramatic steep ramp of South Twin (11,749 ft.).

Mount Cromwell (far L), Little Alberta (L), Alberta Peak (L of Center), Mount Woolley (Center L), and Diadem Peak (Center). Photo looks WNW.
South Twin (L), North Twin (Center) and Stutfield Peak (R). Photo looks SW.
Stutfield Peak. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
South Twin (L of Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
South Twin again. Photo looks SW.

Conditions weren’t bad at all.  Temperatures in the low 50’s ºF, with a light SW wind.  Lupe and SPHP made many rounds of the summit area, gazing repeatedly upon the fabulous views in all directions.

On Tangle Ridge high in the Canadian Rockies.

Late afternoon.  A wonderful hour and 45 minutes on Tangle Ridge had slipped away all too soon.  Facing famous Wilcox Pass far below, and all the glorious surrounding peaks, Lupe started S back down the long scree slope.  What an unforgettable day in the Canadian Rockies this had turned out to be!  (End 7:57 PM, 67ºF)

Leaving Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 8-7-19

Links:

Next Adventure

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

The Athabasca Glacier & Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Canada (8-3-16)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Day 5 (Part 2) & Day 6 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

After an overcast, drippy morning, Lupe’s excursions to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and Wilcox Pass had turned out great!  The weather had gradually cleared up as the day went on.  At mid-afternoon, as Lupe and SPHP headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 looking for the next adventure, sunny blue skies prevailed.

Why not go take a look at Sunwapta Falls?  These mighty falls contain the meltwaters of the Athabasca Glacier, which Lupe had just visited.

Well, one reason not to was that the Sunwapta Falls parking lot was packed.  It took a while for a parking spot to open up.  Lupe and SPHP went to see Sunwapta Falls along with the rest of the teeming throng.  No doubt about it, Sunwapta Falls was gorgeous.  A huge torrent of water plunged into a deep narrow gorge the Sunwapta River has carved over eons right through the rock.

Sunwapta Falls. This is upper Sunwapta Falls located near the parking lot. A trail leads downstream to a series of 3 more waterfalls in quick succession collectively known as lower Sunwapta Falls.

The bridge across the Sunwapta River below the falls was loaded with people.  More tourists lined the chain link fences along the edges of the gorge.  Lupe was lost and confused in the crowd.  Once before, Lupe had taken a trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, a series of three more waterfalls in close succession downstream.  The lower falls were equally impressive and worthwhile.

It wasn’t all that far to lower Sunwapta Falls.  Unfortunately, today that was probably a disadvantage.  The lower falls would likely be pretty busy, too.  Not nearly as crowded as the upper falls, perhaps, but still busy.  Lupe would have more fun somewhere else.  Fortunately, Lupe and SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park wasn’t that far away.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6, and continued N.

Maybe Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park is only intended for use by locals?  It’s right off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, about 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls, but there is no sign for it anywhere along the highway.  The picnic ground features only a handful of picnic tables situated right up on the E bank overlooking the Athabasca River.  Across the giant river are beautiful peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived, the picnic ground was empty.  Simply fantastic!  Lupe rushed down to cool off in the meltwater swollen Athabasca River.  She searched for squirrels in the forest, and found a few, too!  Lupe and SPHP played Dingo games.  No one came.  Lupe was free to be herself.  The American Dingo was having a blast!

Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.
Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.
Happy times - looking for squirrels.
Happy times – looking for squirrels.
Found one! There's a squirrel in this tree!
Found one! There’s a squirrel in this tree!
Glacial meltwater tastes great when your barker gets dry!
In the Athabasca River next to her favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Photo looks upstream (S).
View across the Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Not too shabby, aye?

When early evening arrived, it was time to leave the picnic ground to go take a look at Athabasca Falls.  There were still people around this very popular and impressive waterfall, but a big majority of the usual daytime crowds had by now departed.  A tremendous torrent of the combined Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers roared over the falls.

Lupe at Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada.
Mighty Athabasca Falls is located just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The falls are reached via a turn onto Highway 93A.
Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.
Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.
The frothy Athabasca River churns through the narrow gorge below the falls.

After visiting Athabasca Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to the tourist and railroad town of Jasper.  Lupe didn’t stay in Jasper long, though.  Soon Lupe and SPHP were heading NW on Yellowhead Highway No. 16 toward British Columbia.  It was a beautiful evening for a drive through the Canadian Rockies, but had been another long day, too.  As SPHP drove, the weary American Dingo snoozed on her pile of blankets and pillows.

In Mount Robson Provincial Park, SPHP stopped the G6 at a long pullout near Yellowhead Lake.  The lake was hidden by trees.  Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look.  A trail led through the forest and down a very steep bank to reach the shore of the lake.

Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.
Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.

Yellowhead Lake was gorgeous, but unfortunately, there was no trail along the shore.  After a few minutes spent down by the lake admiring the view, Lupe and SPHP scrambled back up the steep bank.  The dense forest blocked any view of the lake.  Lupe’s last brief adventure of the day was spent sniffing around in the woods near Yellowhead Lake.

Lupe and SPHP drove on, but it was getting late.  The long Canadian twilight was fading.  Day was done.  Time to stop for the night.

The next morning, Mount Fitzwilliam was in view, tall and impressive in the early light.

Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.
Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.

However, Lupe and SPHP were already beyond Mt. Fitzwilliam.  Lupe wasn’t going back.  Today was a special day.  Today Lupe was going N, hundreds of miles farther N than she had ever been before!  Most of the day would be spent traveling, but not too far ahead were two more big Canadian waterfalls Lupe could visit along the way.  The first was Overlander Falls.

Overlander Falls on the Fraser River is in Mount Robson Provincial Park, within walking distance of the park headquarters.  SPHP parked the G6 at a trailhead along Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  A sign at the trailhead displayed a simple map of the area.

This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.
This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.

Lupe was starting from the E end of the trail system, very close to Overlander Falls.  A wide, well-worn path led into the forest from the highway.  At first, the path lost elevation gradually, but as the roar of the falls grew louder, the trail started switchbacking down a steep slope.

In only 10 minutes, Lupe was at Overlander Falls.  The falls weren’t high at all, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls wasn't high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.
Overlander Falls wasn’t high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.
Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.
Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.

A plaque near the falls told the story of how Overlander Falls got its name.

This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.
This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.
Lupe at Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Canada.
Lupe at Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Canada.
The cool mist from Overlander Falls felt good!

Since most of Lupe’s day was going to be spent traveling in the G6, the 1.6 km Overlander Falls trail along the Fraser River to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters was an appealing option.  No one was around yet, and the trail would provide a peaceful, secluded path through the forest along the scenic blue green river.  Lupe could get some exercise, and SPHP would enjoy the views.  Lupe was most definitely in favor of the idea!

The Fraser River below Overlander Falls.

As it turned out, the Overlander Falls trail did not stay down near the river.  Instead, it paralleled the river mostly 40 to 80 feet above it on the forested slope.  The Fraser River was only occasionally in view.  The trail was in good condition, but didn’t look like it sees an awful lot of use, perhaps because there are trails to more dramatic destinations nearby.  (See Lupe’s fabulous hike to Mount Robson and Berg Lake in 2013 on the Berg Lake Trail!)

The Overlander Falls trail was fairly level most of the time, and an easy hike.  It passed Hogan’s camp, established way back when the railroad was being built.  The Carolina Dog was not too impressed.  Hogan’s camp now amounts to nothing more than a few rotting logs.  However, Lupe did enjoy sniffing and exploring in the forest along the trail.  She found a few squirrels to bark at, which made her day.

Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.
Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.
Fraser River from the Overlander Falls trail.

At the W end of the Overlander Falls trail, Lupe came to a road at a bridge across the Fraser River.  There was no trailhead at this end, just a small sign near the bridge pointing out the trail.  Downstream from the bridge was a bend in the Fraser River.  Lupe and SPHP went down to the river’s edge so Lupe could get a drink.

Lupe along the Fraser River. The Overlander Falls trail heads upstream from the N side of the bridge seen over the river. A small sign on the upstream side of the road at the start of the bridge is the only indication of the trail’s presence. Photo looks upstream.

Overlander Falls trail sign, Mt. Robson PP, Canada 8-4-16After the American Dingo had her drink from the Fraser River, Lupe and SPHP took the road another 0.25 km to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters on the N side of Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  Unfortunately, the sky had been clouding up.  The summit of Mt. Robson was hidden from view.

Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.
Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the Overlander Falls trail.  On the way back to the G6, tragedy struck.  Excited by a squirrel, while leaping around in the thick underbrush, Lupe got her right front dewclaw got hooked on something.  Her dewclaw snapped completely off!  It was painful and bled a little, but not much.  The wounded Carolina Dog looked to SPHP for help.

Lupe returns to the Overlander Falls trail.
Lupe in pain with a snapped off right front dewclaw looks to SPHP for help. This photo is typical of the Overlander Falls trail as it went through the deep forest near the Fraser River.

SPHP examined Lupe’s paw, kissed the terrible wound many times, and gave Lupe lots of attention.  When that didn’t cure it, SPHP carried Lupe along the trail.

Naturally, her right front paw hurt where the dewclaw had snapped off right at the base.  Lupe was certain she couldn’t go on.  Until she could.  After 15 minutes of being carted around like a sack of potatoes, at Hogan’s camp Lupe decided she could manage on her own just fine.  Back at the G6, Dr. SPHP applied anti-biotic ointment and a bandage (9:55 AM).

Lupe recuperating in the G6 with her right front paw with the snapped off dewclaw all bandaged up.

Lupe’s adventures (and misadventures) at Overlander Falls were complete.  Time to get back on the road again (10:12 AM), but only for a short stretch.  Lupe had very little chance to recuperate before reaching the trailhead for Rearguard Falls.  She did fine anyway.

This sign at the Rearguard Falls trailhead told of the end of the salmon’s struggle here in their quest to swim up the Fraser River.

The trail to Rearguard Falls wasn’t very long.  Lupe soon came to an elaborate system of walkways with metal railings near the falls.  Like Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls wasn’t all that high.  Rearguard Falls was almost more like a cascade.  It was still impressive and very beautiful.  Lupe and SPHP stayed at Rearguard Falls for close to an hour.

Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.
Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.
Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.
Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.
Rearguard Falls in Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.
Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.
Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.
Looking downstream.

Part of the reason Lupe was at Rearguard Falls so long was that other people kept coming and going.  Some of them had very fancy cameras they set up on tripods.  At the closest viewpoint next to the falls, several photographers set up their tripods in succession, each one occupying the coveted spot continuously for 15 or 20 minutes.

It didn’t matter to Lupe or SPHP how long they took.  The stunningly beautiful river, the hypnotic roar of the falls both soothing and powerful, the mountain scenery, and perfect weather made Rearguard Falls a great place to be.  Waiting for a turn at the closest viewpoint, SPHP chatted with people, while Lupe relaxed or enjoyed being admired and petted by friendly tourists.

One lady was here with her husband (who was busy with his camera and tripod at the coveted spot) and two sons.  They were from the Netherlands.  She said they had saved money for 10 years to come to Canada.  Eventually they were going to sail up the inland passage on the Pacific Ocean near the end of their trip.  They loved Canada, and were having a fabulous time!

Finally, it was Lupe’s turn at the closest spot to Rearguard Falls.  Two photos, a final lingering look, and Lupe’s time at Rearguard Falls was over (11:31 AM).

Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.
Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.

Lupe and SPHP spent nearly all the rest of the day traveling on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  Both Lupe and SPHP were farther N than they had ever been before.  Lupe was entering a whole new world!

NW of the junction with Hwy 5, traffic on Hwy 16 greatly diminished.  Almost everyone else had turned S on Hwy 5 heading for Kamloops.  Lupe was in a valley miles wide, with a wall of high mountains on each side.  Nearly all the land was forested, but at first there were some farms and fields near the highway, too.  Haystacks were abundant, but curiously, not livestock.  Lupe watched diligently for a long time, but saw only one herd of cows to bark at.

After a while, the farms and fields disappeared.  On both sides of the valley, the high mountains were getting progressively smaller and more distant.  Unbroken forest stretched in every direction as far the eye could see.  Despite being in what appeared to be a complete wilderness, no wildlife was seen except for ravens picking at roadkill.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe’s eyelids began to droop.  Soon she was snoozing, as the countless miles of endless forest went by.  To SPHP, it was all increasingly magical, to be here, at last, with Lupe in a wilderness that stretched ahead for not only hundreds, but literally thousands of miles, heading toward the unknown.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn't all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.
With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn’t all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.

Granted, what lay ahead wasn’t completely unknown.  SPHP had maps and descriptions, had seen photos online, and had a general plan for Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation adventures.  All that was helpful, necessary and informative to a degree, but only scratched the surface of the possibilities and realities in this gigantic new territory Lupe was traveling through.  And all the preparations weren’t the same as finally being here, actually seeing it all for the very first time.

The mountains were gone, replaced by distant blue ridges, by the time Lupe neared Prince George.  Lupe woke up as the G6 slowed entering the city.  Prince George turned out to be a lively and attractive city situated along the scenic Fraser River.  It was the only large town Lupe would see in all of British Columbia.  SPHP made a couple of stops for gas and groceries.

As Hwy 16 headed WNW from Prince George, farms and fields appeared again, carved out of the seemingly limitless forest.  To Lupe, the open fields meant cows and horses.  This time the Carolina Dog wasn’t disappointed.  Although most of the fields were full of haystacks and bales, Lupe did see lots of cows and horses.  She got plenty of most satisfying barking in.  Now and then she had to stop long enough to slurp up water to wet her poor overworked parched barker.

At a rest stop near Cluculz Lake, Lupe and SPHP devoured half of a whole roasted chicken purchased in Prince George, while a rain shower passed over.  Between the exciting cows and horses, and tasty roasted chicken, Lupe was very much revived.  Back on the road again, she remained awake and watchful.

The long drive was marvelously relaxing.  Lush green fields surrounded by dark forests appeared, and subsequently retreated from view.  Distant blue ridges defined the horizon.  Gray white clouds drifted across a partly sunny blue sky, trailing rain dark streaks of rain behind them.  For a long time, the G6 said it was a perfect 71°F out.

The green fields closer to Prince George gradually disappeared, swallowed by the primal forest.  Lupe passed through a few small towns of significance – Vanderhoof, Fraser Lake, and Burns Lake.  The farther Lupe went, the less traffic remained on the road.  The sun was low by the time Lupe reached Houston, a tiny, quiet community near the Bulkley River.

In Houston, right alongside Yellowhead Highway No. 16, was a very beautiful small park with a fountain, manicured lawn, and a profusion of vibrantly colored flowers.  Here Lupe and SPHP stopped to stretch their legs and admire Houston’s crown jewel, in the little time remaining while it was all still aglow in the sharply slanting rays of earth’s sinking star.

Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day's end.
Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day’s end.
Steelhead Park was full of a dazzling array of colorful flowers in perfect condition.
Lupe near the fountain.
Lupe near the fountain.
It must take an enormous amount of work to keep Steelhead Park looking so immaculately manicured. The entire park was in tip top shape!
Rainbow trout and steelheads are the same species, but live very different lives. Rainbow trout live their lives entirely in fresh water, while steelheads are anadromous, meaning they spend part of their lives in the sea.

Lupe at Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia, Canada 8-4-16And so, for now, we leave American Dingo explorer and adventurer Lupe in the little town of Houston, deep in northern British Columbia, at the end of Day 6 of her super fabulous Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation among the brilliant blossoms of Steelhead Park.

At Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia, Canada 8-4-16

Links:

Next Adventure                             Prior Adventure

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

The Athabasca Glacier & Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Canada (8-3-16)

Day 5 (Part 1) of Lupe’s summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

After midnight, Lupe heard rain.  Always light, never heavy, but steady.  SPHP hoped there would be new snow on the mountains in the morning.  Morning came.  No such luck.  The night hadn’t been quite cold enough.  Even if there had been new snow, Lupe might not have seen it.  The mountaintops remained shrouded by clouds and mist.

In early morning mist and light rain, Lupe and SPHP explored along the shore of Bow Lake from the picnic ground to where Lupe could see the toe of the Crowfoot Glacier.  The toe was the only part of the glacier not lost in the clouds.

Only the toe of the Crowfoot Glacier was visible from the shore of Bow Lake with the mountaintops shrouded in fog and mist. Photo looks S using the telephoto lens.

A visit to the Athabasca Glacier, and a trek up to Wilcox Pass were on Lupe’s agenda for the day.  Unfortunately, both would be pointless in this weather.  All the glorious sights would be hidden from view.

The American Dingo had been to Wilcox Pass twice before, on both her 2013 & 2014 Dingo Vacations.  The views from the overlook toward the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks were the most spectacular Lupe had seen anywhere in the Canadian Rockies.  Missing out on Wilcox Pass would be simply tragic!

Nothing we can do, Loop, but head N and see what conditions are like when we get there!  Maybe these clouds will burn off or move out by then.

Nothing had really changed, though, by the time Lupe and SPHP drove over Sunwapta Pass into Jasper National Park.  The sky was still completely overcast, the mountaintops hidden from view.  Light rain fell intermittently.  It didn’t look like Wilcox Pass was in the cards at all.

Surprisingly, most of the Athabasca Glacier could be seen beneath the clouds.  Lupe could still take the little hike up toward the toe of the glacier.

At the start of the trail to the Athabasca Glacier. The glacier comes into view from the top of the low ridge seen beyond Lupe. Years ago it was possible to walk right up onto the glacier, but now authorities have roped off the last part of the approach supposedly due to public safety concerns.
Near the toe of the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SW.
As close to the Athabasca Glacier as Lupe was allowed to go. Meltwaters seen below the toe of the glacier are the headwaters of the Sunwapta River. Photo looks SW.
A look at the upper end of the Athabasca Glacier using the telephoto lens. Unseen above is the Columbia Icefield from which the glacier flows. The Columbia Icefield is the largest in icefield in North America, covering about 125 square miles.
A look at the upper end of the Athabasca Glacier using the telephoto lens. Unseen above is the Columbia Icefield from which the glacier flows. The Columbia Icefield is the largest in icefield in North America, covering about 125 square miles.

The short hike to see the Athabasca Glacier didn’t take very long, but during that time, the rain virtually stopped.  Off to the N, SPHP noticed two tiny patches of blue sky.  That was all it took.  Once back at the G6, Lupe and SPHP drove S on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 a few miles to the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Only 3 vehicles were at the normally popular trailhead, an indication of how poor conditions had been to start the day.  Disappointingly, instead of growing as hoped, the tiny patches of blue sky had disappeared.  It was misting again.  The temperature was only in the 40’s (°F).

Lupe was undeterred.  The Carolina Dog was ready to hit the trail!  Another vehicle pulled into the trailhead as Lupe began her ascent to Wilcox Pass (10:00 AM).

The first part of the Wilcox Pass trail winds around in a forest while climbing steadily.  Shortly after crossing a wooden bridge over a steep slope, Lupe came to the first viewpoint.  Part of the Athabasca Glacier was in view, but clouds still clung to the mountains.

Lupe on the Wilcox Pass trail a little beyond the first viewpoint. Part of the Athabasca Glacier is seen on the L. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe on the Wilcox Pass trail a little beyond the first viewpoint. Part of the Athabasca Glacier is seen on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Beyond the first viewpoint, the forest thinned quickly.  The trail was relatively level for a short distance, as it led along the edge of a ridge.  The Athabasca Glacier could now be seen most of the time.

The steepest part of the climb was next.  The trail turned away from the view and went up a big slope.  Lupe passed by scattered patches of stunted forest, and was soon above tree line.  Ominously, instead of clearing up, the sky was looking darker.  The mist was heavier than before.

Lupe wasn’t turning back now!  The hardest part of the climb was over.  The trek to Wilcox Pass was becoming progressively easier when, suddenly, Lupe stopped.  She had seen or sniffed something up on the slope above the trail!

A small herd of Bighorn sheep was resting on the tundra.  Lupe was fascinated.  She wanted to stay right here and watch.  Actually, she wanted to go trophy sheep hunting, but the leash prevented her from having too much fun.

Bighorn sheep near the Wilcox Pass trail. Lupe was fascinated! She would have liked to go trophy sheep hunting, but the leash spoiled her fun.

Bighorn sheep near Wilcox Pass, Jasper NP, Canada 8-3-16As Lupe watched Bighorn sheep, the mist turned to rain.  The few people who had come up to Wilcox Pass earlier in the day were now slogging past Lupe and SPHP on the way back down the trail.  The couple that had been following Lupe up turned around and retreated, too.

SPHP finally persuaded Lupe to press on, leaving the sheep to enjoy their solitude.  As Lupe neared Wilcox Pass, a chill wind drove the rain down more fiercely.  Lupe and SPHP were totally alone.  That was awesome!  The fresh breeze felt good, too, but the rain would have to let up pretty soon if Lupe was to remain up here for long.

In mist, wind, and rain, Lupe nears Wilcox Pass. Mount Wilcox is up ahead. Photo looks NW.
In mist, wind, and rain, Lupe nears Wilcox Pass. Mount Wilcox is up ahead. Photo looks NW.

Lupe made it to Wilcox Pass.  Conditions weren’t terrible, but they weren’t encouraging either.  The vast and lonely pass was beautiful and mysterious beneath the sullen sky.

Lupe at Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NW.
Lupe at Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NW.

The stupendous panoramic view that Lupe had come to see was at the end of a side trail to the SW, not right at Wilcox Pass itself.  Even though it appeared likely the view was going to be obscured by clouds and rain, Lupe and SPHP set off on the side trail.  The solitary hike over the forlorn, broken wild tundra might have to be its own reward.

Lupe up on one of the first little high points on the way to the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NNW at the broad empty expanse of Wilcox Pass. The main Wilcox Pass trail is seen beyond Lupe and to the R. Staying on the main trail would have taken Lupe over the pass and down to Tangle Creek.
Lupe up on one of the first little high points on the way to the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NNW at the broad empty expanse of Wilcox Pass. The main Wilcox Pass trail is seen beyond Lupe and to the R. Staying on the main trail would have taken Lupe over the pass and down to Tangle Creek.

The commanding, panoramic view of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks Lupe was on her way to see is perhaps 0.5 mile to 1.0 mile SW of the main trail at Wilcox Pass.  The trail to the viewpoint climbs several small ridges, and goes through a series of lower areas, too, on the way.  Lupe and SPHP made good progress to one of the higher ridges, where there was a large cairn.

It was still windy, but thankfully, the rain was starting to let up.  The clouds were lifting.  Lupe could now see the summit of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.).  Even better, off to the N was another patch of blue sky!  It was bigger than the tiny patches of blue sky SPHP had seen before.

Lupe on the ridge with the big cairn (not pictured). It was still windy, but the clouds had lifted enough so Lupe could see the top of Mount Wilcox. There was even a patch of blue sky! Photo looks NNW.
Lupe on the ridge with the big cairn (not pictured). It was still windy, but the clouds had lifted enough so Lupe could see the top of Mount Wilcox. There was even a patch of blue sky! Photo looks NNW.
Lupe on the ridge with the big cairn. Photo looks E at the huge W ridge of Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.) on the E side of Wilcox Pass.
Lupe still on the ridge with the big cairn. Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 can be seen in the distance heading over Sunwapta Pass. Photo looks SE.

The weather continued improving as Lupe and SPHP followed the side trail SW.  The patch of blue sky near Mount Wilcox was growing fast!

The patch of blue sky near Mount Wilcox was growing fast! Photo looks NNW.
The patch of blue sky near Mount Wilcox was growing fast! Photo looks NNW.
By the last little valley to be crossed on the way to the SW viewpoint. This ravine had a tiny stream in it. Sunwapta Pass is visible in the distance on the L. Photo looks SE.

The last little valley to be crossed before reaching the final ridge was narrow and had a tiny stream flowing through it.  Lupe crossed the stream and climbed up on the final ridge.  The whole ridgeline featured tremendous views.  Lupe and SPHP followed the trail NW to another big cairn.  This cairn appeared to be the end of the side trail, and a fantastic spot to take in the panoramic view.

Going a short distance SW down the slope from the cairn got Lupe out of the worst of the wind.  At first, clouds still obscured the mountains surrounding the Athabasca Glacier.  However, the now huge hole in the clouds near Mount Wilcox held out the promise of clearing skies and splendid scenes soon to come.  Lupe and SPHP got comfortable, and prepared to watch the big show.

Lupe reaches the viewpoint at the end of the side trail SW of Wilcox Pass. Clouds still hung around the Athabasca Glacier (L) and Snow Dome (R). Photo looks SW.
Mt. Athabasca (L) and Mt. Andromeda (Center) are in the clouds. The Icefield Centre and related facilities are seen 1400 feet lower down along Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. Photo looks SW.
Lupe at the last big cairn at the end of the side trail leading SW from Wilcox Pass. The huge span of blue sky around Mount Wilcox was very encouraging! Photo looks NNW.
Lupe at the last big cairn at the end of the side trail leading SW from Wilcox Pass. The huge span of blue sky around Mount Wilcox was very encouraging! Photo looks NNW.
Taking a break trying to dry off and warm up while waiting for the big showy mountain and glacier display to begin! Photo looks SW.

Lupe had made it to the viewpoint just in time.  It was only a matter of a few minutes before blue sky started appearing over the Athabasca Glacier.  The summit of Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) was the first to be revealed.

The summit of Snow Dome was revealed as the big patch of blue sky passed over. Part of the Athabasca Glacier is visible along the L edge. Photo looks SW.
Lupe and Snow Dome. Photo looks SW.
Lupe and Snow Dome. Photo looks SW.
Lupe watches the big show. Photo looks SW.
Lupe watches the big show. Photo looks SW.

For 40 minutes, Lupe and SPHP watched the changing scene.  The blue sky tried hard, but never could reveal the summits of the other peaks around the Athabasca Glacier.  Clouds clung to them.  Sometimes it seemed like the peaks were creating more clouds all by themselves.

It was all still gorgeous.  SPHP was very glad that Lupe came up to Wilcox Pass and over to the viewpoint.  What a shame it would have been to miss all this grandeur!

The Athabasca Glacier and Sunwapta Lake. Photo looks SW.
The summits of Mt. Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda refused to emerge from the clouds.
Mt. Athabasca using the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.
Mt. Athabasca. Photo looks S.

The sunny summit of Mount Wilcox. Photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.
The Athabasca Glacier. From Lupe’s high vantage point, part of the Columbia snowfield which feeds the glacier is in view. Photo looks SW.

Eventually the big patch of blue sky started losing the battle.  More clouds were coming.  The sky darkened.  The big show was over, at least for now.  It was time for Lupe to go.  She had lots of fun on the way back exploring the heather.

The blue sky had encouraged others to start coming back up to Wilcox Pass, too.  Soon Lupe and SPHP were no longer alone.  Sporadically, it rained again, but this time not hard enough to discourage everyone.  Now, Lupe and SPHP were the only ones going down, while others came up.

Lupe was pleased and excited to see that the Bighorn sheep hadn’t gone anywhere.  They were still peacefully watching the passing parade.  Lupe got a little more sheep watching in, too.

Lupe was pleased to see that the Bighorn sheep hadn't gone anywhere. She got in a little more fun watching them before continuing down the trail.
Lupe was pleased to see that the Bighorn sheep hadn’t gone anywhere. She got in a little more fun watching them before continuing down the trail.

When Lupe emerged from the forest at the Wilcox Pass trailhead again (2:47 PM), the clouds were nearly all gone.  Blue skies and sunshine prevailed, and things had warmed up considerably (59°F).

SPHP drove Lupe down to the Icefield Centre across the highway from the Athabasca Glacier.  The place was a madhouse.  SPHP was fortunate to get a parking spot in the huge parking lot.  The place was packed with vehicles, with lots more circling around looking for an opening.

The views from the Icefield Centre weren’t as good as from high above in the Wilcox Pass area, but the scene was still magnificent.  Now that their summits were in clear view, Lupe agreed to pose for a few more photos of the high snowy peaks surrounding the Athabasca Glacier.

Part of Snow Dome (L) and Mount Kitchener (11,499 ft.) (R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Too bad the sky never got this clear while Lupe was on high near Wilcox Pass! Photo looks WSW.
A closer view using the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.
A closer view using the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.
The Dome Glacier (Center) and Snow Dome (L). Photo looks WSW.
The Dome Glacier (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R). Photo looks W.
The Dome Glacier (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R). Photo looks W.
Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (R). Photo looks SSW.
Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (R). Photo looks SSW.
Lupe with beautiful snow and glacier covered Mount Athabasca in the background. Photo looks S.
Lupe with beautiful snow and glacier covered Mount Athabasca in the background. Photo looks S.

The rainy, misty morning was long gone, having finally given way to this bright, sunny afternoon.  Lupe had been close to the Athabasca Glacier, made it to Wilcox Pass, and seen glorious sights from on high.

Well, Looper, it’s what, not even 3:15 PM, yet.  What now?

Since we are in the Canadian Rockies on a fine summer afternoon, looks like time for another adventure to me!

The clever Carolina Dog was so right!  Lupe and SPHP hopped in the G6, left the teeming Icefield Centre parking lot, and headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  When you are in the Canadian Rockies, the next big adventure is never far away!

Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.).

Note: Although there are many areas of superb beauty in the Canadian Rockies, the Wilcox Pass trail to the dramatic snow and ice-covered panoramic view of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener is the most scenically rewarding half day hike Lupe and SPHP have found to date.

The Wilcox Pass trailhead is located less than 0.25 mile off the N bound side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 along the gravel road that leads to the Wilcox Creek campground. The turnoff is just a mile or two N of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass, and just a couple miles S of the Icefield Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.

The Wilcox Pass trail is in good condition.  The side trail to the viewpoint SW of the pass is easy to spot and follow.  Total elevation gain is on the order of 1,400 feet.  One section of the main trail is fairly steep, but most of it is only moderately strenuous.

Another great trail to a glacier view is only 10 minutes away.  The Parker Ridge trail, which is even shorter (and less time-consuming) than the Wilcox Pass trail, switchbacks up to a spectacular view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.  The Parker Ridge trailhead is along the S bound side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 several miles S of the Jasper National Park and Banff National Park boundary at Sunwapta Pass.

Links:

Next Adventure                        Prior Adventure

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-13)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Mount Edith Cavell, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-13)

On 7-28-13, Day 19 of her 2013 Dingo Vacation, Lupe visited Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls in Jasper National Park.  After seeing both of these impressive waterfalls, it was still early afternoon, so there was plenty of time for Lupe to look for more adventures.  From Athabasca Falls, SPHP drove N on Hwy 93A instead of returning to the main Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  Although paved, Hwy 93A proved to be much more of a back woods road than the main highway.  It was bumpy and patchy, and didn’t have much traffic on it.

A paved side road leading W to Moab Lake (7 km) looked interesting, but shortly after getting on it, the pavement ended.  The gravel road that continued onward was full of stones and potholes.  It wasn’t long before SPHP gave up on the Moab Lake idea, and turned the G6 around to return to Hwy 93A and continue N.  Eventually Lupe & SPHP reached the side road to Mount Edith Cavell (11,033 ft.) the main attraction SPHP was aware of accessible from Hwy 93A.

The road to Mt. Edith Cavell was 14 km long, very narrow and windy, but all paved and in beautiful, almost new condition.  It started raining lightly as the G6 wound its way up the mountain.  After quite a distance, Lupe and SPHP arrived at a very small pullout with an overview of a cloudy, but gorgeous mountain valley with a river running through it far below.  Snowy peaks were visible at the upper end miles to the NW.

The Tonquin Valley from the road to Mount Edith Cavell. This looked like a beautiful place to explore, but unfortunately for Lupe, dogs are not allowed in Tonquin Valley.
The Tonquin Valley from the road to Mount Edith Cavell. This looked like a beautiful place to explore, but unfortunately for Lupe, dogs are not allowed in Tonquin Valley.

A sign a bit farther along the road indicated that Lupe and SPHP had just seen a portion of the famous Tonquin Valley.  Unfortunately for Lupe, Tonquin Valley is closed to dogs.  It looked like a beautiful place to explore.

After winding around on the road a bit longer, Lupe and SPHP were getting quite close to Mount Edith Cavell.  The place was so busy, it wasn’t even possible to get to the large parking lot.  There were cars parked along the road well before the parking lot was reached.  SPHP parked the G6 by the side of the road, too.  By now the weather had closed in enough so clouds hid the top of Mount Edith Cavell, while it continued to sprinkle rain.  It was still only about 2:30 PM.  Lupe and SPHP stayed in the G6 and took a nap in the hope that the weather would eventually clear.

SPHP awoke a bit after 5:00 PM to find that it was raining harder, not less.  Quite a few cars had left, but Mt. Edith Cavell must be a very popular destination as cars continued to come and go despite the rain.  SPHP moved the G6 forward to the main paved parking lot, which was now less than 1/2 full.  Lupe stared out the window and watched people, while SPHP wrote in the trip journal.

By 6:45 PM, the rain had stopped.  There were only 5 or 6 other cars left in the parking lot.  The sky was still completely overcast and it was a chilly 45°F out.  Lupe and SPHP hopped out of the G6 and took the not very long trek (about 20 minutes one way) up the trail to see Mount Edith Cavell.  There was a clear view of much of the mountain, including the Angel Glacier, but the top of the mountain remained shrouded in clouds.  There was more trail to explore, but signs said the rest of it was closed to Dingoes.  Since everything was still wet and gloomy, Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6.

The next morning (7-29-13 and Day 20 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation), everything had changed.  At 6:30 AM, Lupe and SPHP headed back up the trail to Mount Edith Cavell as far as Lupe was allowed to go.  It was a brisk morning (32°F according to the G6), but the skies were clear and the sun was shining on the mountain.  No one else was around yet.  Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the silent majesty of the scene.

Mount Edith Cavell
Mount Edith Cavell
The melt pond at the base of Mount Edith Cavell. This was as close as Lupe was allowed to get according to signs.
The mostly ice-filled melt pond at the base of Mount Edith Cavell. This was as close as Lupe was allowed to get according to signs.
An arm of the Angel Glacier hangs down from Mount Edith Cavell.
An arm of the Angel Glacier hangs down from Mount Edith Cavell.

Angel Glacier, Mount Edith Cavell 7-29-13SPHP knew that it wouldn’t be long before people would start coming.  Since Lupe wasn’t permitted to explore any of the additional trails, all too soon it was time for Lupe and SPHP to start back down the valley to the G6.

A look N back down the valley from Mount Edith Cavell.
A look N back down the valley from Mount Edith Cavell.
Lupe on the Mount Edith Cavell trail.
Lupe on the Mount Edith Cavell trail.

From Mount Edith Cavell, Lupe and SPHP went on to Jasper, a pretty and busy little tourist town.  Coming into town, Lupe was very interested in 2 female elk with fawns standing right on the road!

Since Lupe had been cooped up in the G6 much of the previous afternoon and all of the evening, SPHP knew she really needed a longer walk than she had at Edith Cavell.  Along the road to Pyramid Lake, SPHP found a trailhead on the edge of town.  Lupe and SPHP spent a couple of hours hiking trails No. 8, 6 & 6A.  The trails made a loop past a swamp and through the forest, eventually going past Patricia Lake.  Best of all there were lots of squirrels in the trees to bark at!  Lupe had an exciting time of it, although SPHP was a bit concerned about how noisy the Dingo was this close to town.

Although there wasn’t much elevation change on this loop, near the end on trail No. 6A, the trail climbed a small hill with a clearing from which there was a nice view of Mount Edith Cavell off in the distance.  After having just been there, SPHP now recognized Mount Edith Cavell as the mountain frequently featured on postcards of the town of Jasper.

During the rest of the day, Lupe got to spent a little time at the beach at Pyramid Lake near Jasper and then enjoyed a scenic drive to Miette Hot Springs.  At the picnic ground there, Lupe endured an hour of temptation, while a herd of 6 or 7 bighorn sheep panhandled from all the picnickers and bold squirrels did the same.  Despite ineffective signs everywhere insisting that people shouldn’t feed the bighorn sheep, they were so tame and used to getting their way, people could pat them without them even backing away.

However, when the bighorn sheep got too close to an excitable Dingo which barked furiously and lunged at them (restrained by a leash, of course), the bighorns did seem to think that was a bit rude.  They gave the foamy-mouthed Dingo a wider berth for a little while, but kept forgetting the experience.  The bighorn sheep had to be repeatedly reminded by the Dingo that they looked like Dingo food.  The squirrels only had to be told once, but chattered taunts and insults back from the safety of the trees.  It was almost more than an American Dingo could bear.

The picnic finally done, Lupe was relegated to the G6 for a while, during which time SPHP had a marvelous alternately relaxing, soothing and invigorating time at the Miette Hot Springs, which features a big hot pool, a big warm pool, and much smaller cool and frigid pools.  All-day admission was only $6.05 Canadian for as long as one wanted to stay, an absolute bargain compared to anything else in the Canadian Rockies!  Miette Hot Springs was fabulous!  If Carolina Dogs could have gone in the hot springs, Lupe and SPHP would have stayed there a couple of days.

By evening Lupe and a much cleaner SPHP were back at Jasper again.  Across a bridge over the Athabasca River from Jasper, Lupe and SPHP found a trail around nearby Lake Annette for an evening stroll.  About 1/4 of the way around the lake though, a couple with a baby in a stroller and a dog approached from the opposite direction.  They said their dog had found and treed a bear cub just a few minutes earlier.  Since momma bear was likely still around somewhere close at hand, and not likely to be entirely pleased with the situation, they were beating a hasty retreat to their vehicle.

Bear hunting in the Canadian Rockies sounded even more exciting than bighorn sheep hunting to Lupe.  SPHP had to admit it would sound impressive to the folks back home.  But the cowardly SPHP quickly overruled and headed for the G6 to end all possibility of a truly exciting end to the day and a most memorable blog post.

Edith Cavell was a British nurse who lived in German-occupied Belgium during WW1. She indiscriminately helped save the lives of soldiers of both sides during the war. However, she also helped 200 allied soldiers escape to the Netherlands or England. For this she was found guilty of treason by the Germans and executed by firing squad. She never saw the mountain in the Canadian Rockies that was eventually named after her. The Indian name for the mountain was White Ghost.
Edith Cavell was a British nurse who lived in German-occupied Belgium during WW1. She indiscriminately helped save the lives of soldiers of both sides during the war. However, she also helped 200 allied soldiers escape to the Netherlands or England. For this she was found guilty of treason by the Germans and executed by firing squad. She never saw the mountain in the Canadian Rockies that was eventually named in her honor. The Indian name for the mountain translates as White Ghost.

Links:

Next Adventure                      Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sunwapta & Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-28-13)

At 6:00 AM on 7-28-13, Day 19 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths & Canadian Rockies, Lupe was back at the Icefields Centre just off the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  The sun was starting to shine on the snowy peaks surrounding the Athabasca Glacier.  No one else was around.  The Icefields Centre wouldn’t open for a quite a while yet.  Even though it was statistically close to the very hottest time of year, the morning had the bright crisp feel of a day in late fall back home.  It was a chilly 32°F.  Lupe and SPHP admired the magnificent mountain scene in the early morning glow.

Dawn at Mt. Athabasca 7-28-13.
Dawn of a new day on Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.) 7-28-13.
Snow Dome and the Dome Glacier
Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) and the Dome Glacier

A couple of really big waterfalls were on Lupe’s agenda for the day.  Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  The road steadily lost elevation at a pretty good clip.  After a 15 minute drive admiring the towering mountains in every direction, the G6 descended into a bank of fog that lasted for miles.  There were road signs for Caribou crossings that added to a sense of mystery and isolation.  Lupe was farther N than she had ever been before.

Eventually the fog bank ended.  The mountains were visible again.  The road by now was only losing elevation slowly.  It was almost level.  On the right (E) side of the highway, SPHP spotted a sign for the Poboktan Creek trailhead.  SPHP turned off the highway to check it out, but had to disappoint Lupe when it turned out to be a trailhead for long distance backpacking.  Dogs, even American Dingoes and Carolina Dogs, were prohibited.

Back on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 again, it wasn’t long before SPHP drove past a restaurant on the left (W) side of the road.  Going past the restaurant, SPHP saw signs on it that said something about Sunwapta Falls.  SPHP had been watching for road signs for the Sunwapta Falls turnoff, but SPHP had either missed them or they didn’t exist.  No matter.  SPHP turned around and drove back to take the paved side road heading W to the Sunwapta Falls picnic ground and trailhead.  It wasn’t far at all to the falls and Lupe was there within just a few minutes.

Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park 7-28-13
Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park 7-28-13

The Sunwapta River starts at the Athabasca Glacier, which wasn’t that far away back where Lupe had just started her morning only a little while ago.  It was already a powerful river.  Sunwapta Falls was impressive.  The Sunwapta River is a tributary of the Athabasca River, which it would soon join not too many more miles away downstream.

SPHP casually checked the trail information and map posted near the parking lot.  There were 2 trails.  One went a long distance far beyond anything SPHP had in mind.  However, there was another shorter one going down to Lower Sunwapta Falls.  The information said Lower Sunwapta Falls actually consists of a series of 3 more waterfalls in close succession.

The hike to Lower Sunwapta Falls was supposed to be just a 1 hour round trip.  It sounded like fun.  There probably wouldn’t be that many people going to the lower falls.  Upper Sunwapta Falls was the tallest of the falls, and very conveniently right there at the parking lot.  Lupe could probably bark at squirrels along the trail to the lower falls without annoying anyone.

There was a bridge across the river just downstream of Sunwapta Falls.  Lupe and SPHP admired the falls from the bridge.  SPHP then continued on across and followed the trail on the other side.  The trail disappeared into the forest.  Lupe likes being in forests and was having a good time.  There were, indeed, a few squirrels to bark at, which she did with great enthusiasm.

However, it started becoming clear that the trail was leaving the Sunwapta River far behind.  SPHP started to suspect this was the long distance trail.  SPHP should have paid closer attention to the map back at the falls.  After following this trail for at least a mile, the Sunwapta River could barely be heard in the distance.  It was time to turn around.

Back at Sunwapta Falls again, SPHP looked around.  From the high fenced viewpoint farthest downstream was a trail following the river.  This trail was on the same side of the river as the parking lot.  It proved to be the trail that does lead down to Lower Sunwapta Falls.  It lost elevation at a pretty good clip.  Soon Lupe reached the lower falls.

Lower Sunwapta Falls
Lower Sunwapta Falls
Sunwapta River below the falls.
Sunwapta River.

The lower falls were pretty impressive and worth seeing.  The trail continued along the Sunwapta River for some distance downstream beyond the lower falls.  Lupe was having such a good time, that SPHP followed it a while longer before turning around.  The Sunwapta River became a gentler stream as it continued on its way.

Sunwapta River
Sunwapta River

Sunwapta River, Jasper NP 7-28-13When Lupe and SPHP finally got back to the G6, it was after 10:00 AM, but still only 36°F.  Things had gotten busy again.  The parking lot isn’t all that large, but cars and people were coming and going.

Leaving Sunwapta Falls behind, Lupe and SPHP got back on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 again still going N.  Very soon SPHP saw another turnout for a trail on the right (E) side of the highway.  Only one other car was at the trailhead when Lupe arrived.  A sign said the trail went to Buck and Osprey Lakes, but there were no maps or distances given.  SPHP had no idea what to expect, but it looked like an opportunity for some exploration with Lupe where there wouldn’t be too many people around.

The forest was leafy and damp.  Lupe was soon quite a soggy doggie, but she was perfectly happy with that.  Lupe didn’t have to look long to find the first lake.  A short trek led to a sign at a trail intersection.  Buck Lake was just 0.1 km straight ahead, and Osprey Lake was only 1.2 km to the left.  Lupe checked out Buck Lake first.  Buck Lake was shallow and weedy, but looked like it might be a great quiet place for ducks or other waterfowl.  Lupe went back to the intersection and took the trail to Osprey Lake.

Osprey Lake was bigger, more open, deeper and cleaner looking.  There were a couple of kayakers on it.  It appeared as though there was better access to Osprey Lake from the other side.  There were more people and kayaks over there.  There was no continuation of the trails Lupe was on along the shores of either Buck or Osprey Lake, so Lupe and SPHP just went to each lake, took a look, and headed back.  Lupe still had a great time in the wet, leafy, mossy forest.

Osprey Lake
Osprey Lake

It was a bit past 11 AM when Lupe returned to the G6.  She had already been on 3 trails this morning.  SPHP found a picnic ground on the W side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 just a short drive N from the Buck & Osprey Lakes trailhead.  This little picnic ground is now a favorite spot.  It is just off the highway, so access is super easy.  Its great attraction, though, is that it is right next to the Athabasca River with some excellent views.  Several of the picnic tables are just a few feet away from the edge of the riverbank.

After lunch, it was only 5 or 6 miles farther N on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to a left turn onto Hwy 93A, which very shortly leads to parking lots for the mighty Athabasca Falls.  By this point, the Sunwapta River has joined the Athabasca.  The flow of water over Athabasca Falls is tremendous and powerful.Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13

The Athabasca River has carved a narrow canyon right through the rock below the falls.
The Athabasca River has carved a narrow channel right through the rock below the falls.

Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca River, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca Falls is a huge tourist attraction.  SPHP was very glad Lupe got to see it.  The falls are gorgeous and amazing.

Athabasca Falls was justifiably a very busy place.  Lupe spent a good 30 or 45 minutes there, during which time she made a few friends among the throng.  In truth, though, she probably far preferred the less dramatic and much more ordinary forest trail to Buck and Osprey Lakes.  One good chattering squirrel makes her happier than a crowd of strangers.  SPHP often feels the same way.

Links:

Next Adventure                        Prior Adventure

Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-13)

Athabasca Falls & Miette Hot Springs, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-30-14)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)

7-23-13.  The 18th Day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies.  Lupe and SPHP woke up fairly early, around 6:30 AM.  It was already light out, of course, and had been for over an hour.  The sky was a brilliant blue and the sun shone brightly on the mountain peaks to the W.

Lupe and SPHP were still in the shadows of the mountains to the E.  Lupe and SPHP went down to the bridge they had crossed the previous evening when Lupe had gone to see Chephren and Cirque Lakes.  For a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP just stood on the middle of the bridge looking at the Mistaya River and enjoying the moment.

Then it was time to go.  Lupe had things to do!  SPHP was really looking forward to it, too.  Lupe was going to go on the most anticipated trek of the entire vacation, the short hike up to Parker Ridge for a magnificent view of the Saskatchewan Glacier!  After a quick breakfast, Lupe and SPHP headed N in the G6 along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Even from the highway, there were great views of snow-clad peaks all around.  N of Saskatchewan Crossing, the impressive North Saskatchewan River meandered through the huge valley just W of the Icefields Parkway.  A medium-sized black bear ran across the highway from the (W) river side to the (E) mountain side of the highway.  Lupe saw it.  It was the first bear she had seen on this trip and she got a very good look at it.  She barked ferociously.  The bear took no apparent notice of the noisy dingo whizzing on by.

Climbing up past the big loop in Hwy 93, the skies suddenly darkened.  It wasn’t any more than 4 or 5 more miles up to the Parker Ridge turnout.  Lupe was soon at the Parker Ridge trailhead right alongside the Icefields Parkway, but the weather was suddenly very threatening.  Dark clouds with heavy fingers of fog were rolling down the mountainsides from the NW.

Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6.  SPHP checked out the map on display at the Parker Ridge trailhead.  A chill wind was blowing.  Within just a minute or two, a cold rain descended on Lupe and SPHP.  Clearly conditions were not favorable for climbing Parker Ridge.  Even if Lupe and SPHP could endure the cold wind and rain and get up on the ridge, there wouldn’t be anything to see in the fog. Lupe wisely jumped back in the G6 before she got bone-chilling soaking wet.  Carolina Dogs know enough to come in out of the rain.

SPHP decided Lupe might just as well head on over Sunwapta Pass to the Icefields Centre near the Athabasca glacier, which wasn’t far away.  At Sunwapta Pass, Lupe left Banff National Park and entered Jasper National Park for the first time.  It was still quite early and people were just starting to arrive when Lupe and SPHP pulled in to the parking lot at the Icefields Centre.  A cold rain was coming down steadily.  The whole sky looked as dark and threatening as if a huge November blizzard was about to strike.  Across the highway, the Athabasca glacier and surrounding snow-covered peaks loomed gloomily and mysteriously through the fog.

The Icefields Centre had just opened.  Lupe stayed in the G6, while SPHP went in to see if there was any weather forecast available.  Lupe’s bright cheerful summer day had changed to a very convincing display of the onset of winter in the span of 30 minutes.  The weather looked so bad outside, SPHP had started thinking that if this was really a major front moving in, maybe the Athabasca glacier was as far as Lupe would get on here 2013 Dingo Vacation.  The notion that Lupe was going to miss out on climbing Parker Ridge and seeing the Saskatchewan glacier was very disappointing.

SPHP talked to a young woman at the information desk and asked for a weather forecast for Jasper for the next few days.  Someone else was interested in the same information.  She got on her computer and checked it out.  Today and tomorrow would be rather iffy with thunderstorms possible, with highs of 17°C (63°F) and 20 degrees C (68°F) expected.  The following two days were supposed to be clear and 25°C (77°F).  SPHP was relieved.  The forecast was far less ominous than the weather outside.  SPHP returned to join Lupe in the G6 and wait.

The rain continued for the better part of an hour.  Lupe snoozed.  SPHP read.  By the time an hour was up, the rain had pretty much stopped.  Lupe and SPHP could see a little patch of blue sky trying to peek through over the Athabasca glacier.  The weather improved rapidly.  The little patch of blue sky was growing and spreading out fast from the Athabasca glacier.  Soon the mountainsides 1,000 feet above the Icefields Centre parking lot were becoming visible revealing a significant dusting of new snow.

Clearing skies over one of Lupe and SPHP's very favorite mountains in the Canadian Rockies, Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.)
Clearing skies over one of Lupe and SPHP’s very favorite mountains in the Canadian Rockies, Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.)
Crisp, clear and clean with a new dusting of snow. Mt. Andromeda (11,286 ft.) and the Athabasca Glacier.
Crisp, clear and clean with a new dusting of snow on the heights. Mt. Andromeda (11,286 ft.) and the Athabasca Glacier.
Snow Dome (11,483 ft. on L) and Mt. Kitchener (11,417 ft. on R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Jasper National Park 7-27-13
Snow Dome (11,483 ft.)(L) and Mt. Kitchener (11,417 ft.) (R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Jasper National Park 7-27-13
The Icefields Centre in Jasper National Park. Tickets for snowbus tours that go right up onto the Athabasca Glacier and guided walks on the toe of the glacier are available here.
The Icefields Centre in Jasper National Park. Tickets for snowbus tours that go right up onto the Athabasca Glacier, and guided walks on the toe of the glacier are available here.
Clearing skies over Snow Dome, another favorite mountain.
Clearing skies over Snow Dome, another favorite mountain, and the Dome Glacier.  Snow Dome is the only spot on earth (outside of Antarctica) from which water flows to 3 different oceans.
Clear skies over Mt. Andromeda and the Athabasca Glacier. Time for Lupe to go climb Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier!
Clear skies over Mt. Andromeda and the Athabasca Glacier. Time for Lupe to go climb Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier!

SPHP was elated!  Lupe was not only going to get to go up Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier, but the scene would be even more fantastic with a dusting of new snow on the mountains.  Lupe and SPHP headed back to the Parker Ridge turnout.  Other people were already gathering there for the hike up as well.  The climb along the excellent trail only takes 45 minutes or so to reach the crest of Parker Ridge.

The Saskatchewan Glacier is visible flowing down from the Columbia Icefield near the head of the huge valley on the other side of Parker Ridge.  Except it wasn’t.  The valley below was full of fog when Lupe first arrived.  Lupe and SPHP waited for it to clear.  SPHP chatted with a couple of guys from Edmonton.  After 20 or 30 minutes, the fog started dissipating.  Eventually it disappeared entirely.

Looking SE from Parker Ridge down into the lower portion of the glacial valley. The glacier (not shown) has retreated to the upper end of this long valley.
Looking SE from Parker Ridge down into the lower portion of the glacial valley. The glacier (not shown) has retreated to the upper end of this long valley.
Looking S directly across the valley from Parker Ridge.
Looking S directly across the valley from Parker Ridge.
The Saskatchewan Glacier flows down from the Columbia Icefield.
The Saskatchewan Glacier flows down from the Columbia Icefield.
Lupe on Parker Ridge 7-27-13
Lupe on Parker Ridge 7-27-13

Lupe on Parker Ridge, Canada 7-27-13Lupe on Parker Ridge & Saskatchewan Glacier 7-27-13Lupe and SPHP wandered around up on Parker Ridge for quite a while.  Different vantage points gave slightly different perspectives.  Due to the lay of the terrain, climbing higher up on the ridge seemed to just hide more of the glacier from view.  Some of the best vantage points were achieved by following a trail towards the E along the edge of the valley going away from the glacier.

Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge 7-27-13
Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge 7-27-13

Saskatchewan Glacier, Canada 7-27-13

The E end of the Saskatchewan Glacier valley as seen from Parker Ridge. The Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 is visible way down below.
The E end of the Saskatchewan Glacier valley as seen from Parker Ridge. The Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 is faintly visible way down below.
Heading back down to the G6 along the Parker Ridge trail in northern Banff National Park, Canada.
Heading back down to the G6 along the Parker Ridge trail in northern Banff National Park, Canada.

On the way back down to the G6, Lupe was amidst a crowd of tourists coming up or going back down.  Lupe made a few new acquaintances along the way.   Once back to the G6, Lupe and SPHP headed N again on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 over Sunwapta Pass (the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks).  SPHP drove on down to the Icefields Centre again, but this time turned off the opposite side of the Icefields Parkway and went down to the parking lots below the Athabasca Glacier.

The parking lots were 80% full and there were a lot of people around.  Not exactly a wilderness experience, but where else can you drive practically up to the toe of a big glacier?  A short trail led Lupe to a viewpoint well short of the glacier’s edge.  Fences and lots of signs warning of the extreme dangers posed by glaciers blocked any further advance.  It was all typical over-the-top hype that applies to everything these days, but whatever.  (Drizzle on Jersey turnpike!  Millions affected!  Take appropriate precautions and stay tuned for further updates!)

Toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Canada 7-27-13
Toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Canada 7-27-13
Lupe near the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper National Park, Canada 7-27-13
Lupe near the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper National Park, Canada 7-27-13
People on the Athabasca Glacier. Presumably they bought tickets at the Icefields Centre to one of the guided walks on the glacier.
People on the Athabasca Glacier. Presumably they bought tickets at the Icefields Centre to one of the guided walks on the glacier.

Lupe at the Athabasca Glacier, 7-27-13The Athabasca Glacier was making its own weather.  A strong, chill wind blew down off it into Lupe’s face.  Away from the glacier, summer had returned.  Close to it, cold locked in the ice during winters long centuries ago made itself felt one more time.

Lupe returned to climb Parker Ridge on 7-29-14 for a second time during her 2014 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies.  Click on the Parker Ridge link to see Lupe’s post on that ascent!

Links:

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.