Days 19 & 20 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
8-23-19, 6:34 AM, 31ºF, 1.5 miles NNW of Glenn Highway MP 123.3 – After her tremendous exertions up on Syncline Mountain yesterday, Lupe had scarcely moved a muscle all night. She was up and about bright and early now, though, sniffing among the bushes while SPHP straightened up the G6.
Still smoky this morning, so no great rush. A leisurely breakfast (beef stew!) was prepared at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead (MP 118.5). SPHP was surprised when Loop only wanted her Taste of the Wild. After breakfast she snoozed through most of the scenic drive to Palmer, where the smoke proved to be worse than ever.
Not good. Plan A had been to climb one of several possible peaks in the Palmer area, but evidently that wasn’t going to happen. Maybe the air would be clearer closer to the ocean? Lots of great peaks in Chugach State Park!
SPHP drove all the way to Anchorage, but Plan B was a flop, too. The mountains were barely visible. The smoke was as bad here as in Palmer, if not worse. Drought and forest fires in Alaska! It seemed incredible. In prior years, it had been hard to find a day when it didn’t rain.
Stops for supplies, an oil change for the G6. Hours frittered away. What to do? No sense in hanging around, the smoke wasn’t going to go away unless it rained hard, or the wind shifted. Kenai Peninsula or inland? The Carolina Dog stated no preference. SPHP gambled on inland.
N of Wasilla, a lighted sign said “FIRE MP82-91 expect 3-4 hour delays”. Plan C was looking shaky, at best.
8-24-19, 8:44 AM, 46ºF, Little Coal Creek trailhead, Denali State Park – The lighted sign had either been hype, or outdated. Lupe had gotten through yesterday with only a single 30 minute delay. She’d seen some charred acreage right next to the Parks Highway, but no flames, no billowing smoke, no emergency. However, she’d arrived at Denali State Park too late to take on any big excursions.
A beautiful morning today, though! Blue skies and no sign of smoke at all. Wind must be blowing the right direction. Better take advantage of the situation while good fortune held. After a whole day of rest, the American Dingo was ready for action!
Expectations were high! A return to Denali State Park’s beloved K’esugi Ridge was on the agenda. The Little Coal Creek trail would get the Carolina Dog up there. Ultimate destination, an off-trail exploration of Peak4500!
The Little Coal Creek trail began as a nearly level trek in a ferny forest. Lupe trotted along watching for squirrels, with occasional success. A joyful start!
The trail crossed 2 small tributaries of Little Coal Creek. Both had plank bridges. The second stream, which was the biggest, drained a nearby pond.
After passing the pond, Lupe came to a first glimpse of the Little Coal Creek valley just S of the trail. Although she could hear it, the valley was so full of trees, Looper couldn’t see Little Coal Creek.
Lupe hadn’t gained much elevation yet, but the trail began to steepen as it veered away from Little Coal Creek. The upward pace was still easy to moderate. For quite a long way, trees and tall bushes hid all views.
Eventually things began to open up. Tantalizing glimpses of the Alaska Range beyond the Chulitna River valley appeared. SPHP tried to hurry, hoping to get high enough to see more before the sky could cloud up. Vegetation shrank. Loopster made it above treeline. Although clouds partially obscured the highest peaks, all the lower ones were on display. The views were already incredible!
Lupe had never enjoyed such a clear day on the way up to K’esugi Ridge before. As she kept going, even the summit of Denali(20,310 ft.), the highest mountain in North America, sometimes appeared.
As impressive as the Denali and the Alaska range were, the beauty of K’esugi Ridge was also stunning. The Little Coal Creek trail steepened considerably shortly before the American Dingo reached the tundra.
The 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek trail formally ended soon after Lupe reached a region of gentler slopes near K’esugi Mountain(4,700 ft.). She was now on massive K’esugi Ridge, a world of tundra and rocks!
The end of the Little Coal Creek trail was a mere technicality. The trail actually kept going, but now as the K’esugi Ridge trail. Pass 3500 on the other side of the Little Coal Creek valley was now the next objective. Skirting along the base of K’esugi Mountain, the K’esugi Ridge trail headed right for it.
Although Lupe crossed the main channel of Little Coal Creek on the way to Pass 3500, she only saw minor tributaries. However, she did heard the main stream gurgling beneath a boulder field that slowed SPHP down considerably.
Upon reaching Pass 3500, Loopster again had a sweeping view of the Chulitna River valley and the Alaska Range. Ahead, the K’esugi Ridge trail gradually descended a broad, open slope leading to a level region W of K’esugi Mountain.
For more than a mile the K’esugi Ridge trail was wide, well-worn, and nearly flat. Lupe passed a couple of scenic small tarns.
1.5 miles from Pass 3500, a larger tarn appeared. Beyond it was the long ridge that leads up to Peak4500.
Lupe stuck with the K’esugi Ridge trail as she continued on beyond the big tarn. Before too long the trail crossed a stream. The American Dingo didn’t have much farther to go to reach the start of the long ridge to Peak4500.
Upon reaching the base of the ridge, Lupe abandoned the K’esugi Ridge trail. Turning S, she climbed a slope that grew rocky and steepened shortly before Loop made it up to the ridgeline.
Ahead a rumpled region of tundra and rock stretched away toward a series of higher benches. Most of the tundra was a mix of red and cream colors. Little bushes added a few splashes of yellow or orange. Greens were evident wherever the ground was damp. Fields of dark gray rocks covered the steeper slopes.
The terrain wasn’t particularly rough, and it was all, oh, so beautiful! This was going to be a fabulous exploration! Looper was in for a treat!
As SPHP picked a way higher, Lupe roamed the landscape. Alaska was suffering a drought. Instead of exhibiting its usual soft sponginess, the parched tundra crunched underpaw. Wherever possible, SPHP tried to stay on rocks to avoid unnecessary damage.
Eventually Lupe reached the upper end of this first region. Before her was a similar area that sloped more gently. Beyond this plain was a ridge more formidable than anything she’d come to so far. Off to the SW was a sweeping view of a lower part of K’esugi Ridge. Lupe could see both Peak3700 and Ermine Hill(2,700 ft.).
After crossing the gentle plain near the upper end of a moist area, Lupe started climbing toward the more formidable ridge. This region was steeper and rockier, but really wasn’t all that difficult. The slope was a long one, though. Soon the Carolina Dog was ready for water and a rest. SPHP didn’t mind in the least. The break felt so good, another one was taken shortly before reaching the top.
The top of the formidable ridge turned out not to be a top at all, just the end of the steepest part of the climb. A rocky region ahead led toward a big tundra-covered slope with a slightly higher ridge in view beyond it. Maybe that was the summit?
Near the edge of the tundra was a giant boulder, easily bigger than any other rock in the vicinity. Lupe leapt up onto it. From here she could see yet another ridge a little farther off that might even be higher than the one that wasn’t too far away now.
From the giant boulder, a short stroll on the tundra brought Lupe to a pancake flat plain. The more distant ridge did appear higher than the one now close at paw. The American Dingo headed for it.
The slopes leading up onto this second ridge were an easy trek. The top turned out to be a flattish, yet uneven region with 3 high points. The S high point was 20 feet lower than the other two, which were so close to being the same elevation it was hard to tell which might be highest.
No doubt about it! Lupe had made it to the summit of Peak4500. She arrived first at the Center high point where a thick, round stone sat amid similar boulders.
The NE high point 200 feet away was different. It consisted of a narrow ridge of much smaller rocks. Since the NE high point looked just as high as the Center one, to truly claim her peakbagging success Loop had to go over there, too. Beyond a steeper rocky slope, the American Dingo had a fabulous view of K’esugi West (4,600 ft.), K’esugi Mountain(4,700 ft.) and Indian Benchmark(4,558 ft.).
Having visited both the Center and NE high points, it was still difficult to say which might be the true summit. SPHP suspected the NE high point, but it was such a close call. The S high point was clearly out of the running, but having come so far, Loop visited it, too. She was rewarded with a sweeping view of the Susitna River valley.
Although not a difficult trek, getting to Peak4500 had been a long one. Now that she’d visited all 3 high points, Lupe was ready to relax. She returned to the Center high point with its scenic big boulders, selecting a comfy spot. 55ºF, a soft NE breeze. Surrounded by the glory of Alaska atop K’esugi Ridge’s Peak 4500, the Carolina Dog laid basking in the slanting rays of the late afternoon sun.
A perfect late summer day! Clouds drifted slowly by the gleaming white form of North America’s highest mountain. Who would ever want to leave?
Yet the moment came. 1.5 hours gone by since the American Dingo had arrived up on Peak 4500. Lupe was ready. Once again she stood poised atop the highest rocks.
Onward! Puppy ho!
Oh, there was more, so much more! The adventure wasn’t over yet!
Let’s do some exploring, Looper!
Batteries recharged, Lupe was all in favor of that! Returning to Peak 4500’s NE high point, she paused only briefly before starting down the rocky N slope.
After an initial 200 foot descent to the edge of a canyon NE of Peak 4500, Lupe traveled NNW along it. Near the end she came to a flat region as she approached a small dark rocky hill. From here Loop might easily have gone NE down a long slope to Pass 3900, the saddle between Peak 4500 and K’esugi West. However, off to the WNW at the far end of the flat region was an unusual rock formation.
Hey, SPHP! Let’s go check that out!
Leading the way across the flat region, the Carolina Dog soon came to the world famous (well, it is now!) “K’esugi Stonehenge”.
After a thorough investigation, Lupe tried to take a shortcut from K’esugi Stonehenge to Pass 3900 by going E around the N side of the small dark hill. Things quickly became a bit steep.
OK, more than “a bit”. SPHP did a magnificent poultry impression and chickened out. Loop wound up traveling back across the flat region to the easy way down to Pass 3900.
From Pass 3900, it looked like it might be possible to go right up the SW face to the top of K’esugi West. Unfortunately, there wasn’t time for that.
The rest was easy. Staying close to the base of K’esugi West for a little way, the American Dingo eventually headed down to a shallow pond that came into view, and continued NW beyond it.
And oh, what a happy time it was! Lupe explored and sniffed to her heart’s content, roaming seldom seen parts of beautiful K’esugi Ridge. An evening in Dingo Heaven!
Exactly 2 hours after leaving Peak 4500, Lupe reached the K’esugi Ridge trail again. The fun wasn’t over. Still 5 gorgeous miles to go back to the Little Coal Creek trailhead.
Who could ask for anything more? (End 11:06 PM, 42ºF)
Day 27 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
7:00 AM – Lupe prowled among the bushes sniffing excitedly. She liked this place! Getting to be late August. The bushes were starting to show some fall colors. SPHP stretched and walked around a bit looking at the views to the N or NE where mountains and glaciers of the Alaska Range could be seen 15 miles away beyond Monahan Flat.
The views were awesome, but the sky was more darkly overcast than SPHP would have liked. Lupe had an adventure planned for today over in Denali State Park. She intended to take the to Ermine Hill trail to a point where she could scramble up Ermine Hill(2,700 ft.), then press on taking the K’esugi Ridge trail to Golog Benchmark(2,970 ft.). A long day, but a fun one, if the weather didn’t interfere.
With so much in the works, Lupe had to get going. 47 miles of gravel road on Denali Highway No. 8 brought her to the pavement on George Parks Highway No. 3 at Cantwell. SPHP turned L heading SW for Denali State Park. Disappointingly, though no surprise, only the lower peaks of the Alaska Range were in view as Lupe neared Denali State Park. All the high stuff, including Denali(20,310 ft.) itself, was shrouded in clouds.
No other vehicles were at the Ermine Hill trailhead at milepost 156.5 when Lupe and SPHP arrived. Despite the general cloud cover, a few patches of blue sky offered encouragement. Looper was at least going to try for Ermine Hill. Whether she would continue all the way to Golog Benchmark might depend on how the weather developed.
A short stroll into the forest led to a registration station. SPHP registered, and the Carolina Dog was on her way. (9:59 AM, 51°F)
The Ermine Hill trail started off in a forest full of ferns. Lupe quickly reached a section of trail overgrown with tall grass, ferns, and bushes. It must have rained recently. All the vegetation was sopping wet. Within 5 minutes, Lupe and SPHP were, too.
The trail gained a little elevation going up a small hill, leveled out for a short distance, then turned SW and dropped close to 200 feet down into the Byers Creek valley. A footbridge across Byers Creek tilted somewhat precariously. The creek had undermined the foundation on the near bank. Fortunately the bridge was still stable enough to cross.
Beyond the bridge, the Ermine Hill trail paralleled Byers Creek through another area of thick, wet vegetation. The trail became quite muddy and went over a couple of similar, but much shorter and better supported footbridges. Lupe passed a scenic pond. The trail then started to climb. A final bridge crossed over a different rushing stream.
Once Lupe was over the last bridge, the trail began to climb in earnest. It wound up the W side of a steep slope in a series of long switchbacks. By the time the switchbacks ended, Loop was getting close to tree line. Here the trail straightened out, and proceeded SE up a long slope. Lupe left the forest behind, entering a zone of tall bushes. Soon she was above the bushes, too. She could now see lower peaks of the Alaska range to the N beyond the broad Chulitna River valley.
Lupe kept going up the slope, which eventually became more gradual. The trail was heading into a sheltered valley where a few scattered trees grew among another profusion of tall bushes.
The trail map showed the Ermine Hill trail would continue SE past a narrow lake tucked near the upper end of the valley. A little beyond the lake would be an intersection with the K’esugi Ridge trail. Lupe would eventually need to go there in order to continue on to Golog Benchmark. However, since the Ermine Hill trail only skirts the NE side of Ermine Hill and doesn’t go to the top, the Carolina Dog would first need to leave the trail to finish her ascent.
Lupe drew even with a small pond to the NE. She could already see the start of the narrow lake ahead. A steep, bush-free slope appeared next to the trail offering an unobstructed lane of tundra extending up to more open ground above. This looked like a fairly easy route, so Loop and SPHP left the Ermine Hill trail and started climbing.
The route was even easier than anticipated. The slope was plenty steep enough, but there wasn’t much huffing and puffing going on. Blueberry bushes only 4 or 5 inches high were everywhere! They were loaded with sweet, ripe blueberries. So addictively delicious! SPHP spent less and less time climbing, and more and more time consuming. Progress slowed to a few steps at a time.
The open tundra was beautifully colored. Lupe had lovely views to look at. Yet she became so bored waiting for SPHP, that she took to resting on the soft tundra. Each time SPHP finally managed to go a little farther, she would test the comfort of another slightly higher spot.
As SPHP consumed blueberries, blueberries consumed time. An hour went by before SPHP managed to gain 300 or 400 feet of elevation. Here, Lupe was on gentler, interesting terrain. Close by was a striking ridge of white sand and gray rock. It couldn’t be much more than another 100 feet higher, and looked like a cinch to climb.
No longer distracted by blueberries, SPHP accompanied Lupe heading W for the near end of the ridge. An easy climb brought Lupe to the top of the ridgeline for a look around.
The American Dingo saw several colorful rounded hills to the SE. Those rounded hills were all part of Ermine Hill, which encompasses a large area. In fact, the topo map shows 4 different areas contained within 2700 foot contours on Ermine Hill. SPHP anticipated Lupe might have to visit several, perhaps even all of them, to figure out which was the true summit. As it turned out, Lupe wasn’t going to have to work that hard.
The colorful rounded hills Lupe saw to the SE included 3 of the 4 areas contained within 2,700 foot contours on the topo map. Lupe was clearly about as high as any of them. The 4th area was farther W on the ridge she was already on. The ground was noticeably higher over there. So it was easy to see that the true summit of Ermine Hill(2,700+ ft.) had to be closer to the W end of this ridge.
Looper didn’t have far to go to get there. She enjoyed a gorgeous, fun, easy ridge walk among flat sandy or gravelly areas and interesting rock formations. The very top of Ermine Hill featured an unusual summit offering a variety of convenient rocky Dingo perches. Despite the clouds, the views were tremendous in all directions.
Lupe could see Golog Benchmark(2,970 ft.) off to the SW. She had been there a year ago, having first reached K’esugi Ridge and Whimbrel Hill(2,645 ft.) from the Byers Lake trailhead. Today’s original plan called for Loop to continue on to Golog Benchmark from Ermine Hill. If she did so, she would complete the entire portion of the K’esugi Ridge trail system between the Byers Lake and Ermine Hill trailheads.
However, Lupe hadn’t gotten off to a very early start, the blueberry trap was another hour lost, and the weather didn’t look all that favorable. Rain showers were drifting up the Chulitna River valley only a few miles to the NW. Furthermore, Loopster would have to first lose 1,200 feet of elevation, then gain 1,500 feet to get over to Golog Benchmark, only to repeat a portion of that process just to get back to the Ermine Hill trail. Golog looked far away.
Loopster was perfectly content lingering up on Ermine Hill, while SPHP pondered whether it made any sense to head for Golog Benchmark.
In the meantime, a few photos from the cluster of rocks at Ermine Hill’s true summit were in order.
Lupe had spent 50 minutes up on Ermine Hill. Decision time. On to Golog Benchmark, or not?
Sadly, the answer was no. Under the circumstances, Golog Benchmark just looked too far away.
However, the no go on Golog didn’t mean Ermine Hill was the end of Lupe’s explorations today. Another option existed. A little more than 3 miles away to the ENE, a big hill was in view. Peak3700 wasn’t really much closer than Golog Benchmark as the crow flies, but Lupe’s route to it would be more direct and less time consuming.
After nearly an hour up on gorgeous Ermine Hill, Lupe started for Peak 3700. She began by traveling Ermine Hill’s summit ridge to its far E end. She saw Ermine Hill’s other colorful hills within 2,700 foot contours again, plus a tarn nearby that she hadn’t seen on her way up.
The Carolina Dog was now SE of where SPHP had dallied on the steep blueberry slope on the way up. She could see more of the narrow lake the Ermine Hill trail passes by in the valley to the E.
There wasn’t a clear, bush-free route down from here like the blueberry slope had been. Most of the way was fine, but Loopster would have to go through a stand of tall jungley bushes to reach the Ermine Hill trail.
The Carolina Dog was making good progress on her descent when she spotted someone 200 feet lower down on the Ermine Hill trail not far from the lake. That someone quickly proved to be two someones and a large dark brown dog. They were all staring intently at the hillside on the far (E) side of the lake.
Nothing appeared unusual about that hillside. Upon closer inspection, however, a black speck was visible way over there in a clearing between the bushes that covered most of the hill. That black speck didn’t seem to be moving, but suspicions were immediately aroused. A quick check with the camera’s telephoto lens confirmed those suspicions.
The people and dog watching the bear remained where they were for a few minutes, before turning around and heading back down the Ermine Hill trail. The bear was far away on the other side of the lake, but was something to stay alert for, since it was sort of on the way to Peak 3700. Lupe was going to be on that same hillside, but would pass well above the bear’s current location without having to go right by it.
For a while, Lupe and SPHP monitored the bear’s position as Loopster continued her descent. The bear never moved before Lupe lost sight of the hillside. No doubt it was anxiously devouring as many blueberries as possible before SPHP could get over there to scarf them all down.
Loop had lost nearly all the elevation she needed to in order to get back to the Ermine Hill trail again when she was confronted with a jungle of tall bushes. They were much taller than even SPHP was. The American Dingo had no issues with the bushes, but SPHP struggled to get through, especially at the start where they were on a steep slope. Nevertheless, Looper and SPHP did make it down to the trail.
Once back on the Ermine Hill trail, Lupe made rapid progress. She got past all the bushes, and soon arrived at the junction with the K’esugi Ridge trail.
From the intersection, Lupe went NE (L) crossing the valley the narrow lake was in. The lower part of this valley was swampy. On the far side of the swamp, the K’esugi Ridge trail led Lupe up a steep creek drainage. She eventually wound up behind a wall of rock bordered by another, larger swamp.
Lupe got muddy legs going across this second swamp. She seemed quite pleased with the experience. SPHP managed to gingerly use stepping stones near the rock wall to avoid the worst of the swamp. Beyond the second swamp, a very short climb led to a side trail that headed W to a nearby rocky viewpoint. Lupe and SPHP went there for a look around.
From the viewpoint, Lupe had a wonderful view of Ermine Hill, where she had just come from. She was now somewhere up above the slope where the bear had been. Looking down, the bear was nowhere in sight. Even though Lupe had come out on top in her encounter with a grizzly bear at the Maclaren River yesterday, it was a bit worrisome not knowing where the black bear had disappeared to. Was it close by?
Keeping an eye and keen nose out for the bear, Lupe returned to the main K’esugi Ridge trail. The trail now climbed steadily as it wound its way N up tundra covered hillsides. Lupe loves this kind of high open territory! The Carolina Dog was soon dashing away across the tundra to explore whatever she could find of interest. Meanwhile, SPHP stuck with the trail.
The trail crossed a couple of small streams. After a mile or so, it leveled out on high ground while rounding a big ridge coming down from the E. This was the same ridge that ought to take Loop to Peak3700. SPHP now joined Lupe in her off trail explorations to begin the climb up the long ridge. Unseen, Peak 3700 was now a little more than 2 miles due E.
Exploring the huge ridge was a grand time! The ridge was big and broad and hilly. Lots of rocks, some quite large, were scattered across it, but most places there was plenty of nice soft-on-the-paws tundra vegetation, too. Lupe climbed up a series of hilly high points, but each proved to be only another false summit.
Lupe finally reached the top of a larger hill where big rocks covered with black lichens were common. She could now see several considerably higher hills ahead, still perhaps a mile or more away.
One of the two most distant hills was almost certainly the summit of Peak3700. Loopster would have to lose some elevation to continue on toward them, but all the intervening terrain from here to the top of Peak 3700 looked easy no matter which distant hill was the true summit.
Lupe worked her way down the E side of the rocky hill she was on and reached the tundra. Though still a mile away, Peak 3700 seemed to be in the bag already! Lupe was doing great, the terrain was a cinch, and she was making great progress.
It wasn’t that simple. The sky had been growing darker for some time. Loop hadn’t seen the sun for several hours, and it was starting to feel late. Clouds were everywhere. A huge dark one now appeared passing directly overhead. This cloud didn’t seem to be dropping much rain, none on Lupe yet, but certainly seemed like it might at any moment.
Rain showers could be seen in several directions. They weren’t terribly far away. If Lupe kept going, SPHP was convinced she was destined to get drenched. Even if this dark cloud didn’t rain on her, it certainly seemed like only a matter of time before another one would.
Reluctantly, SPHP concluded the only prudent thing for Lupe to do was turn around. The clouds had held off most of the day, but a rainy evening appeared to be in store. No sense in getting wet and chilled. Another 30 minutes and Loop would have made it to the top of Peak 3700. Now she wasn’t going to get there. So close and yet, so far!
Ever since reaching Ermine Hill, Lupe had enjoyed a fantastic day up in the alpine tundra. The return trip was no different. The Carolina Dog ran like the wind, streaking across vast distances, pausing briefly here and there to sniff and investigate more thoroughly. It was so much fun to watch her go – feeling vibrant and wonderful, so full of life, all joyful and excited to be here. Lupe returned to check on SPHP often, looking like the happiest Dingo in the world, strong and beautiful.
The dark cloud passed by without raining on Lupe or SPHP. Dodged a bullet there. The sky brightened, but remained overcast. Rain showers could still be seen, but none appeared headed this way yet.
SPHP reached the K’esugi Ridge trail again. Lupe still spent most of her time running and playing on the tundra. She never did see that black bear again.
It wasn’t until SPHP made it all the way back to the forest well on the way down the Ermine Hill trail, that Lupe finally decided she better stick to the trail, or at least very close by.
Loop was near the tippy footbridge over Byers Creek, when suddenly the sky darkened again. SPHP had already been gloating that Loopster was actually going to make it all the way back to the G6 without getting rained on. Clearly rain was now on the way, but the G6 wasn’t much more than 0.5 mile away. Surely, the American Dingo could still get there before the rain hit!
Uh, uh. Halfway there, the raindrops started. Slowly at first, but soon building to a steady downpour. If SPHP had aborted the attempt on Peak 3700 only 10 minutes earlier, Lupe would have arrived back at the the G6 completely dry. As it was, both the American Dingo and SPHP returned cold, absolutely drenched and miserable. (8:32 PM)
Ermine Hill had been a fabulous day, but it rarely pays to gloat.
Day 21 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska
Lupe was still in Alaska in gorgeous Denali State Park. Unfortunately, she wasn’t going to get a clear view of Denali(20,310 ft.) today, either. Rain had fallen overnight. It wasn’t raining now, but the morning sky was socked in with clouds. Looked like another morning would be wasted waiting on the weather.
SPHP drove to Byers Lake at milepost 147.0 along the George Parks Highway (Alaska Route 3), and found a picnic ground. Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a leisurely brunch. After Lupe’s long day yesterday spent climbing Indian Benchmark(4,558 ft.) and K’esugi Mountain(4,700 ft.) near the N end of the K’esugi Ridge Trail, maybe a restful morning was a good thing.
Nearby, a man sat under a large canvas canopy. He worked for a company renting out canoes and kayaks for short term use on Byers Lake. The company also offered rafting trips on the Chulitna River. Despite the cool, overcast weather, he was doing some business.
Finally, noon was approaching. Still nothing, but gray skies and the occasional stray raindrop. Was Lupe going back up to K’esugi Ridge, or not? It was a long way to the Golog Benchmark(2,970 ft.). Decision time. Even though Lupe was unlikely to see Denali(20,310 ft.), she would undoubtedly enjoy the trek. Best get going.
Signs said the suspension bridge over Byers Creek NE of the lake was unusable. Lupe would have to go the long way on the Byers Lake Trail around the SW end of the lake to get to the Cascade Trail. The long way added an extra 1.3 miles, but there was nothing to be done about it. So what? Lupe didn’t care.
At the SW end of Byers Lake, Lupe came to a long wooden bridge across the Byers Creek outlet. The smooth flowing stream was very wide and several feet deep.
Three people were standing on the bridge, peering into the water. SPHP asked what they were doing. They were watching salmon swim upstream, came the reply. SPHP looked into the water, but saw nothing. Just wait, SPHP was told. The salmon come swimming up in small groups every 3 to 5 minutes. Sometimes they swim downstream from the lake, too.
Sure enough! In only a couple of minutes, several salmon did come swimming upstream. They passed beneath the bridge, swimming slowly. The salmon appeared tired, perhaps exhausted, from their long migration all the way from the ocean to Byers Lake.
The poor salmon were already starting to disintegrate. They were arriving at Byers Lake battered and scarred from their heroic journey. They bore long white wounds on their backs where scales had flaked off, or been torn away from the flesh. The sight was both tragic and inspiring. The salmon deserved pity, respect, and admiration.
One salmon was all red, except for its green head. That was a sockeye salmon. Lupe and SPHP stayed watching the salmon for 20 minutes before continuing on.
On the SE side of Byers Lake, the Byers Lake Trail was often muddy and slick. A great many tree roots made the trail rough and uneven. In places, large mushrooms grew near the trail. A few of them were brilliantly colored, and quite striking in appearance.
Lupe passed by a small remote campground near the NE end of the lake. No one was there. Lupe was well beyond Byers Lake by the time she reached a junction with the Cascade Trail.
The Cascade Trail connects the Byers Lake Trail to the long K’esugi Ridge Trail popular with multi-day backpackers. Lupe had gained very little elevation coming around Byers Lake. Most of her elevation gain for the day would come along the Cascade Trail.
The Cascade Trail started off rising gently, but that changed pretty quickly. Soon Lupe was gaining elevation steadily at a good clip. The first part of the Cascade Trail was still down in a forest. Ferns grew in great abundance on the forest floor.
Before long, a roaring waterfall could be heard off to the NE, no doubt the cascade the trail was named after. Lupe never had a good view of it, however. The trail never got that close.
The trail passed over a small hill, then lost a little elevation going down to a creek. Lupe was still seeing colorful mushrooms along the way. Once down by the creek, the trail started a more serious climb. There were two creek fords, which were easily passable this time of year using stepping stones.
The trail followed the creek up a narrow ravine for a while, then finally left it and began to switchback up onto K’esugi Ridge. The map SPHP had along showed the Cascade Trail was only 2.0 miles long. Maybe SPHP was just worn out from Lupe’s previous day’s adventure, but it seemed twice that long.
After an endless stretch down in the forest and then among tall bushes, Lupe was finally high enough above the dense vegetation to get a view of the progress she’d made. Byers Lake already looked surprisingly far away.
Lupe left the switchbacks behind. The Cascade Trail began to straighten out, climbing more directly up the slope toward the top of K’esugi Ridge. Gradually the slope of the terrain lessened. There was more good news, too! The sky was getting brighter. The clouds weren’t as gloomy and gray as before. Little patches of blue sky began to appear.
Before reaching the top of K’esugi Ridge, the Cascade Trail ended at an intersection. Lupe avoided taking the Upper Troublesome Creek Trail, which turned S (R). Both of her peakbagging objectives, Whimbrel Hill and the Golog Benchmark, were to the NE. Lupe headed ESE (L) on the K’esugi Ridge Trail.
The top of K’esugi Ridge wasn’t much farther. Lupe gradually gained another 200 feet of elevation. The trail had nearly topped out by the time Lupe reached a barren hillside overlooking Mini-Skinny Lake to the S.
The K’esugi Ridge Trail gradually turned NE as Lupe continued on past Mini-Skinny Lake. For a while the trail was nearly level, passing over open tundra. Large boulders dotted the landscape, especially toward the NE end of the hill Lupe was on. With encouragement from SPHP, she got up on one of the biggest ones, which was sporting a cairn. From the boulder, Lupe could see her two peakbagging objectives for the day, still miles away.
Lupe had reached the NE edge of the big hill she was on. Ahead, K’esugi Ridge was miles wide, all wind-swept tundra. Lupe saw scattered lakes and ponds. A few trees struggled for survival. Bushes several feet high clustered near some of the creeks and wetlands. The terrain was undulating. From here on, all elevation changes would be gradual.
Whimbrel Hill(2,645 ft.) was the closest of Lupe’s objectives, still a couple miles to the NE. Lupe started down the hill, following K’esugi Ridge Trail toward it.
After losing a fair amount of elevation, the K’esugi Ridge Trail disappeared as Lupe reached a marshy valley full of bushes. A stream with significant flow weaved through it all. Water seemed to be everywhere. Right next to where the trail had been heading, there was even a small pond with a couple of ducks on it.
Lupe had no problem leaping over the stream, but SPHP went upstream, hoping the flow diminished in that direction. The stream was only a few feet wide, but it was fairly deep. Swampy ground made it hard to even get close to the stream’s edge, which was often poorly defined.
What SPHP didn’t realize was, this stream comes from the largest of the small lakes in the area. The flow wasn’t going to diminish upstream. Nevertheless, SPHP finally found a way across. Lupe continued NE on the K’esugi Ridge Trail, which reappeared on drier ground about where it could have been expected, if SPHP had simply splashed directly across the marsh.
The K’esugi Ridge Trail brought Lupe fairly close to the largest lake in the area, passing to the NW of it. N of the lake, the trail reached its closest point from Whimbrel Hill, which was still almost 0.5 mile farther N.
Lupe and SPHP left the K’esugi Ridge trail, and made the easy trek across the tundra to Whimbrel Hill. At the summit, Lupe found a rock shaped like a pedestal, or very flat mushroom. Rocks piled on top served as a rough cairn. Lupe jumped onto the pedestal to claim her first peakbagging success of the day! She graciously received congratulations from SPHP.
At Whimbrel Hill, a decision had to be made. Due to Lupe’s very late start, it was already late in the day. Golog Benchmark was still a long way off to the NE. Going all the way to it clearly meant getting back to the G6 well after nightfall. Was Whimbrel Hill the end, or should the American Dingo forge on ahead to Golog?
The weather was basically good and seemed stable. Off to the NW, Denali and the Alaska Range were still cloaked in dark clouds. Rain showers could always be seen drifting NE along the Chulitna River valley in that direction. Over K’esugi Ridge, however, the clouds weren’t nearly so dark. Occasionally, Lupe basked in sunshine.
The terrain was easy, and Lupe would have trails to follow all the way back. This was probably Lupe’s only chance to ever get to Golog. If she left K’esugi Ridge now, who knew when, or if, she would ever return? The sun would still be up for another couple of hours.
Chance of a lifetime! If the Carolina Dog was ever going to see Golog Benchmark, she had best get going. Lupe and SPHP headed SE down Whimbrel Hill angling to meet up with the K’esugi Ridge Trail farther NE than where Lupe had left it.
Lupe had a blast on K’esugi Ridge! She displayed enormous energy racing across the tundra, sometimes so far from SPHP that she had to be called back to make certain she didn’t get lost. The distant tiny Dingo always returned at top speed, full of enthusiasm. It was still disappointing to SPHP that Denali wasn’t going to make an appearance, but that was the hand that had been dealt.
Lupe wouldn’t have changed a thing. Of all the grand adventures Lupe had on her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon, and Alaska, Lupe might well rank this day roaming free on K’esugi Ridge as the best.
Lupe came to many little streams and ponds. The K’esugi Ridge Trail had lots of mucky, wet sections, and minor creek crossings. SPHP soon learned how to tell where the wetlands were by the appearance of the vegetation in the area. Lupe climbed rocks and hillsides. She investigated holes in the ground. She sniffed everywhere, discovering whatever mysteries float in the Alaskan breeze.
The tundra was alive with brilliantly colored low-lying plants. Crowberries and other berries were in great abundance. Beauty spread from beneath Lupe’s paws as far as the eye could see in every direction. What a fabulous place and wonderful day to be alive! The trek to Golog was long, but easy and magnificent.
At last, Lupe drew near Golog. The trail rose steeply, twisting to avoid boulders. The climb took only a few minutes. Lupe arrived up on a fairly level summit area perhaps 60′ x 100′ in size. There was little vegetation. Most of the area was exposed bedrock. A huge boulder coated with light green lichens, was perched at the very top.
A chill and rather strong breeze was blowing. Although it had been sunny out not long before, the sun had sunk into the storm clouds to the NW hanging over the Alaska Range. Lupe took a break and had some Taste of the Wild, partially sheltered from the wind by the huge boulder. Meanwhile, SPHP searched around for a survey benchmark, but found none.
Lupe climbed to the top of the crowning boulder, to see if the actual survey benchmark was there. No, not here either, but Lupe had made it to the top of Golog Benchmark hill! Congratulations were in order once more. SPHP shook her paw, praising the energy, endurance, and enthusiasm she had displayed coming all this way.
Lupe jumped down off the huge boulder to escape the cold SW breeze. SPHP searched the larger summit area again, but never found the actual survey benchmark. That was a bit surprising. There was no question that Lupe was on the highest point around, and the trail had come right to it. This had to be Golog!
For 20 minutes, Lupe and SPHP remained on Golog. Lupe had seen only one person on K’esugi Ridge all day. In the chilly breeze, beneath the cloudy sky, the beautiful, vast, wild tundra felt desolate, forlorn, forgotten. The K’esugi Ridge Trail went on past Golog continuing NE for miles. Lupe could see Skinny Lake ahead (the big Skinny Lake, not Mini-Skinny), hundreds of feet lower than Golog.
Somewhere out there, miles beyond Skinny Lake, the N end of the trail passed near K’esugi Mountain where Lupe had such a good time yesterday. Wouldn’t it be fun to backpack the entire trail someday? Yes, someday. A someday that likely would never come. Yet Lupe was here now, still young, strong and happy. A moment to be cherished and enjoyed.
Lupe’s time on Golog passed quickly.
After Lupe left Golog, the sun managed to break through the clouds. Briefly, the tundra glowed, illuminated by weak, slanting rays. Earth’s star was fighting a losing battle. Gloom swallowed it whole a final time. Shadow spread over K’esugi Ridge.
For a while, Lupe resumed her energetic forays racing over the tundra, but even Carolina Dogs eventually tire. After two long days exploring the glories of K’esugi Ridge, Lupe was out of gas. She returned to SPHP on the trail. She begged SPHP to carry her, or stop and rest.
SPHP was close to being played out, too. There was no way Lupe could be carried any significant distance. There wasn’t time to take long rest breaks, either. Lupe needed to make it back to the junction with the Cascade Trail before it got too dark. It was important not to miss the turn. Lupe got a few short rest breaks, but that was all she was allowed.
Lupe arrived at the Cascade Trail while there was still enough twilight for SPHP to spot the junction. Lupe made the turn. The Cascade Trail hadn’t gotten any shorter, even though Lupe was now going downhill. When the American Dingo reached the black forest, the headlamp had to come out.
On and on, in the dark. Lupe seemed to have gained a second wind. SPHP, on the other hand, was dragging. By the time Lupe made it back to the Byers Lake Trail, each step was painful. Tree roots on the trail didn’t help.
Finally, it was over. SPHP limped back to the G6. Lupe jumped inside, anxious to lay down. Gads! 3:37 AM. No wonder. A piece of paper was under the windshield wiper. A reminder from officialdom that the $5.00 parking fee for the new day was already due. Splendid.
Well, Loop, we should get our $5.00 worth tomorrow. I doubt I’ll be able to budge from this spot. No response. Lupe was gone – still running joyful and free across the Alaskan tundra in Dingo Dreamland. Run, Loop, run!
Days 18, 19 & 20 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska
8-16-16. Morning in the Arctic. Still lots of clouds around, but the sun was shining promisingly on a field W of the Dalton Highway. Lupe and SPHP weren’t going anywhere.
Yesterday had been incredible! Lupe had succeeded in climbing Dillon Mountain(4,820 ft.), close to 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle. Cold and soaking wet, Lupe and SPHP had returned after midnight, only to find the G6’s battery was dead.
Fortunately, the G6 was parked at a small pullout N of milepost 207 right alongside the Dalton Highway. SPHP raised the hood. Someone would stop to help. While Lupe sniffed around outside, SPHP arranged sopping wet clothes to dry on top of the G6, then proceeded to put things back in order inside. About the time SPHP was finishing up, a vehicle pulled up.
A couple of guys jumped out, and asked if everything was OK. Well, not quite. SPHP had jumper cables along, could they give the G6 a quick jump? Yeah, no problem. A couple minutes later, the G6 was purring again. Thanks, so very, very much! Would they take payment for their assistance? Nope. What great guys!
Lupe’s benefactors were Devon Drayton and John Antes. Devon had gotten a job and moved to Fairbanks 2.5 months ago. John lives in Pennsylvania, where he works as a website graphics designer. They were on their way N to Deadhorse on Prudhoe Bay to see the Arctic Ocean.
Devon and John were both friendly and kind to Lupe. After the jump start, they stayed chatting with SPHP for a while. They were impressed that Lupe had climbed Sukakpak and Dillon mountains. Devon had a scary tale about a narrow escape from being alone half-buried in snow. John described difficult hikes and mountain climbs in virtually impenetrable forests. The visit was fun, but eventually Devon and John had to hit the road.
Thanks to Devon and John, the G6 was running! Lupe and SPHP spent the whole day driving S. Lupe crossed the Arctic Circle. She shared a beef stew picnic with SPHP at the Yukon River. By evening, Lupe was way down S in Fairbanks. She visited Pioneer Park there shortly before sunset.
The next morning, Lupe left Fairbanks on Alaska Route 3, the George Parks Highway. Half an hour after leaving town, SPHP stopped at a pullout at a high point. Far away to the S were many impressive peaks. Even more remotely off to the SW, however, was a shocking sight.
Visible across an incredible distance, a colossal mountain clad in white rose to an impossible height! Otherwise totally exposed, the monster’s summit scraped the clouds. There could be no mistaking that gigantic peak. Lupe was getting her first look at Denali(20,310 ft.), the highest mountain in North America!
The sight of Denali was exciting! Often the mountain is obscured by clouds for many days at a time. Today, it appeared Lupe had an excellent chance of getting a grand view of the mountain up close! Plans for the day changed instantly. Suddenly, Lupe’s primary objective was to reach the N Denali viewpoint at milepost 162.6 along the George Parks Highway as soon as possible.
It was farther to the viewpoint than SPHP realized. Traffic was heavy. There was considerable road construction. A lot of time was lost waiting for pilot cars. Hours went by. When Lupe arrived at the N Denali viewpoint in Denali State Park, the mountain had vanished. A bank of clouds hung over the Alaska Range. Most disappointing.
SPHP drove over to the Little Coal Creek trailhead at milepost 163.9. Lupe could take the Little Coal Creek trail up onto K’esugi Ridge. If Denali reappeared, Lupe would have a fantastic view from up there! The sky had been clouding up, though. It was already after 3 PM. How likely was it Denali would reappear today? No, maybe it was best to just go back to the original plan for the day.
That meant driving 50 miles back to Cantwell. The plan had been for Lupe to check out a couple of mountains in that area, and get positioned to be ready to climb one or the other of them tomorrow.
The drive back to Cantwell was gorgeous. Some of the rugged lower peaks of the Alaska Range, were in view N of the highway. They weren’t Denali by a long shot, but they were still impressive.
About 10 miles NE of Cantwell, Lupe checked out Panorama Mountain(5,778 ft.) from the George Parks Highway. There was no trail up Panorama Mountain as far as SPHP knew. Almost none of the route up Slime Creek that SPHP had hoped Lupe might be able to take was visible from the highway. Panorama Mountain looked challenging. The probability of success was too low.
Next Lupe went to check out Reindeer Hills(5,102 ft.), situated 6 or 7 miles E of Cantwell, and 2 miles N of gravel Denali Highway (No. 8). There was no trail up Reindeer Hills, either, but Reindeer Hills looked much easier to climb than Panorama Mountain. SPHP liked the idea. Lupe would easily be able to do this! Reindeer Hills looked like a fun climb.
Unfortunately, as SPHP drove E on Denali Highway No. 8 looking for the best point for Lupe to start her trek up the Reindeer Hills, there were “No Trespassing” signs posted all along the road. Land in the area was owned by a Native American tribe. The signs said a permit was required to enter.
Lupe made stops at a number of scenic points along Denali Highway No. 8. Near a small lake of SE Reindeer Hills, an old map was posted showing the extent of the Native American lands. Reindeer Hills didn’t appear to be included, but there was no reasonable access point that didn’t cross the Native American property.
Sadly, the Reindeer Hills idea had to be abandoned. The long drive back to the Cantwell area had been a waste, but at least the situation was clear. Tomorrow, Lupe would go to K’esugi Ridge in Denali State Park. Her objectives would be to climb to the Indian Benchmark and K’esugi Mountain. SPHP hoped the weather would be clear, so Lupe would get a great view of Denali.
Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a beautiful evening drive back toward Denali State Park.
As Lupe got closer to Denali State Park again, there it was, off in the distance. Denali was back! SPHP hoped it was a good omen for Lupe tomorrow.
The next morning, conditions weren’t nearly as encouraging. The sky was totally overcast. Rain looked like a real possibility. Low fog drifted among the mountains. Denali was nowhere in sight.
SPHP wasn’t at all certain Lupe should even attempt the climb up to the Indian Benchmark and K’esugi Mountain. No point in going in rain or fog. SPHP drove to the Little Coal Creek trailhead at milepost 163.9 along the George Parks Highway, anyway. At the trailhead, Lupe waited in suspense, while SPHP checked maps and prepared for the trek.
There was no discernable change in the weather by the time everything was ready. May as well try it, and hope for the best. Lupe could always turn back, if conditions deteriorated. Lupe and SPHP set off on the Little Coal Creek Trail (11:10 AM, 56°F).
The trail started out in the forest. At first, there no views and only gradual elevation gain, but that began to change when the trail got closer to Little Coal Creek. The trail turned ESE staying N of the creek, and began to climb steadily. Little Coal Creek was seldom seen, down in a deep ravine.
Lupe’s first real views came when the trail reached treeline. The sky was still overcast. Clouds clung to the mountaintops. At least it wasn’t raining.
The last part of the climb along the Little Coal Creek Trail was fairly steep. The trail then leveled out entirely, even beginning to lose a little elevation as it turned SW. Lupe was almost to the end of the 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek Trail. Soon it would become the K’esugi Ridge Trail where it crosses the ravine Little Coal Creek originates from N of K’esugi Mountain.
Lupe had already gained 1,750 feet of elevation from the trailhead. By now she was well above treeline, even bushline, up on open tundra. The views would already have been spectacular, if it had been a clear day.
Lupe wasn’t continuing on to the K’esugi Ridge Trail. Her first peakbagging objective, the Indian Benchmark(4,558 ft.) was off trail to the SE. Ahead, Lupe could see a large ridge that swept around to the E before curving to approach Indian Benchmark from the NE. The long ridge looked like an easy climb. Only the last little bit near the summit, partially hidden in the clouds, looked like it might present a problem. What could be seen from down here didn’t look too bad.
Lupe abandoned the Little Coal Creek Trail, and made for the start of the long sweeping ridge to the Indian Benchmark. The ridge route was easy. So easy that Lupe followed the sweeping ridge only partway. To save time, she cut straight across the tundra past a small pond on her way SSE to the base of a higher saddle. After a steep climb, she regained the ridgeline only 0.33 mile NE of the summit.
When Lupe regained the ridgeline, SPHP was concerned. The upper slopes of Indian Benchmark looked mighty steep. Lupe went SW along the ridge to get as close and high as possible prior to a final assessment.
As Lupe drew near the base of the sharp final rise up to the top of Indian Benchmark, SPHP became increasingly dismayed. The N face of the mountain was way too cliffy to consider, as expected. Any hopes of climbing straight up the narrow NE ridge were dashed, too. Lupe could get partway up, but then it looked way too intimidating.
However, the previously unseen SE face was the real disappointment. A very long, steep, rocky slope plunged far, far below to the Indian River valley. Above Lupe’s current position, the slope began at the base of even steeper, more intact rock formations, almost cliffs, close to the top of the mountain.
Had coming this way all been a huge mistake? Lupe was only 100-150 feet below the summit. Up to this point, her route up Indian Benchmark had been simple and sweet. Now there appeared to be no safe way up the final short stretch.
Maybe Lupe should have climbed K’esugi Mountain first? The topo map showed a gently sloping ridge 0.125 mile wide going all the way to the summit of Indian Benchmark from K’esugi Mountain. In fact, Lupe could see part of that wide ridge from here. There was no way over to it. Lupe would have to traverse the N face of Indian Benchmark to get there. That just wasn’t happening.
Time to calm down and consider the possibilities, all the possibilities – including retreat. Lupe and SPHP milled around on the ridgeline, studying the views, especially the view of that unexpectedly steep SE face of the mountain. The N face was definitely out. It didn’t take long to conclude the narrow spine of the NE ridge to the top wasn’t worth trying, either, but that SE face … maybe it was possible to traverse that SE face and find a way?
If it hadn’t been for some of the experiences Lupe had already been through on her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation, SPHP would most certainly have called a retreat. King’s Throne and Decoeli in the Yukon, Sukakpak and Dillon here in Alaska N of the Arctic Circle, they had all been challenging, daunting, even scary. Yet Lupe had made it to the top of them all.
Most of those rocks on the SE face were fairly large. They looked pretty stable.
Loop, let’s see how it goes!
Despite the dizzying view, things went fine, at first. The rocks were mostly stable. Lupe and SPHP picked a way along to the SW, gaining elevation gradually. After some of Lupe’s other recent climbs, this wasn’t even scary. Hopes began to soar.
Soon Lupe was near the base of some of the larger intact rock formations. There appeared to be a reasonable route higher near one of the first ones. Lupe and SPHP started up. After a little progress, it was a no go. Too cliffy! Lupe retreated. She continued working SW.
Another opportunity to climb higher soon presented itself beyond another rock formation. Up and up. Slowly, carefully. The route got steeper, but there were handholds and footholds for SPHP. Somehow, Lupe never seems to have a problem scrambling. She was getting close to the top of the ridge visible above.
A false summit! The top couldn’t be much farther, though. Wrong again. Lupe climbed and climbed. The route was getting steeper. Progress was slow. There was starting to be more exposure than SPHP cared for. The intrepid Carolina Dog showed no concern, but SPHP was on the verge of retreat again.
Another 5 or 6 feet almost straight up, there appeared to be some kind of a top, or at least a ledge. SPHP made Lupe wait below, carefully climbing and then hoisting up onto the ledge, face and stomach down on the rock. SPHP looked up, legs still dangling over the edge. The view ahead was amazing and unexpected.
SPHP was at the far NE end of a narrow ridge. The ridge was flat, perhaps 3 or 4 feet wide, 20 feet long, and covered with smallish to medium-sized rocks. Drop-offs were on both sides. After 20 feet, the ridge broadened out tremendously.
Looper! You’ve done it! We’re here!
Lupe was up in a flash. SPHP literally crawled along the ridge, not daring to stand up until it had broadened out. As soon as SPHP stood up, there it was! One step to the N, sat the Indian Benchmark.
This was it! The summit of Indian Benchmark mountain. SPHP congratulated Lupe heartily on her latest peakbagging success! Somehow Lupe had reached the top of the mountain right at its very NE end. SPHP must have turned to climb directly up the SE slope much sooner than intended. Lupe hadn’t been very far from coming right up that NE spine of the mountain SPHP had supposedly ruled out.
The sky was clearing. Off to the NW, the top of a gigantic peak peered over the remaining clouds. Denali!? For 10 minutes, Denali spied on Lupe, then vanished.
That was a little spooky, Loop! It’s as if Sauron has taken over Denali and is spying on you! You aren’t carrying some ring of power on a necklace concealed under your fur with the intention of destroying it at Mt. Doom are you?
Mind your own business, SPHP! The burdens of an American Dingo are no concern of yours. My precious is … I mean, my burdens are my own.
Just wondering, for a few minutes there, I was starting to believe we were climbing Mt. Doom.
By the way, SPHP, is Mt. Doom somewhere around here? Is it on our itinerary?
No, not as far as I know.
Not far from the survey benchmark, a little out onto the broad summit area, Lupe came to a ridiculously small cairn for a mountain covered with loose rocks. A heavy-duty registry container leaned against it. Lupe’s name is not on the registry. Someone had closed the container so tightly, SPHP couldn’t get it open. Oh well, time for a short break and photos.
As glorious as the views were, Lupe and SPHP stayed only 15 or 20 minutes up on Indian Benchmark. Time waits for no Dingo. Although it had certainly turned into a beautiful day with blue skies and white clouds, Lupe had gotten a rather late start due to the questionable morning weather. Lupe still had to get to K’esugi Mountain(4,700 ft.), her next peakbagging objective.
Lupe went W, crossing the huge ridge over to K’esugi Mountain. Along the way, Lupe had a great view back at Indian Benchmark and much of the NE ridge she had traveled to get there.
Less than an hour after leaving Indian Benchmark, Lupe arrived at the summit of K’esugi Mountain. A 3 or 4 foot high semi-circular rock wall served as a summit cairn. Lupe liked the rock wall. It provided a bit of shelter from a cold breeze.
A registry was in a sturdy container nearly identical in every respect to the one on Indian Benchmark, with the single important exception that SPHP was able to get this one open. While Lupe hid out in the semi-circle, SPHP logged her K’esugi Mountain peakbagging success into the summit registry.
Lupe spent nearly an hour up on K’esugi Mountain. She explored parts of the huge summit area. SPHP had the idea that she would be able to go down the NW side of the mountain. Not terribly thorough investigations in that direction were not encouraging.
It would have been absolutely awesome fun if Denali would have come out to play. The views would have been so tremendous! To the S, skies were blue with puffy white clouds, but Denali and the rest of the Alaska Range to the NW stubbornly remained hidden in the clouds. If anything, the sky was gradually clouding up even more in that direction again.
Lupe never went back to the NW end of the mountain to see if there really was a way down, or not. There seemed to be enough time left in the day for Lupe to explore a longer route. When it was time to leave, Lupe went S instead of N.
The route became a little worrisome. The S ridge Lupe was going down became progressively narrower and steeper. SPHP feared Lupe might cliff out, but she didn’t. Lupe made it down to a big saddle leading over to the next high hill to the W.
Lupe left the saddle going NW down a long rocky slope. She lost another 300 feet of elevation before the terrain leveled out. SPHP took a long time, but finally made it down. Lupe turned N.
Ahead was rough terrain, an open wilderness filled with a variety of features. There were rocks and ridges, hills and drop-offs, large boulder fields left by landslides or erosion. Green oases surrounded diminutive mirror-like ponds connected by sparkling streams. Soft tundra, easy on the paws, blanketed part of the scene. A slowly melting snowbank invited Lupe to cool off.
The air was cool; the evening light, dramatic; the solitude, complete. Lupe dashed around at great speed, abruptly changing directions, exploring wherever she wanted to go. She stopped to drink cold water, and sniff the wild world. As far as Lupe was concerned, this was the best part of the day. For an hour, she was in Dingo Paradise.
At a little pass near 3,500 foot elevation, Lupe found the K’esugi Ridge Trail. She followed it E back to the Little Coal Creek Trail she had left many hours before. Three guys from Houston, Texas were standing on the trail. They had expensive wonderful cameras, and were planning to camp nearby, hoping to get some shots of Denali at sunrise tomorrow.
Twilight was already fading fast, but for a few minutes, a little patch of Denali peered stealthily at Lupe through a hole in the clouds. Everyone was tremendously excited and encouraged. SPHP wished the guys from Houston well. Then Lupe proceeded down Little Coal Creek Trail looking forward to a meal and 40 winks at the G6. (11:31 PM)
Note: The 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek Trail is the northernmost of several access routes to the K’esugi Ridge Trail in Denali State Park. The K’esugi Ridge Trail is popular with multi-day backpackers for its alpine terrain and sweeping views to the N of Denali and the Alaska Range. The traverse of K’esugi Ridge from the Little Coal Creek trailhead is as much as 37 miles to the Upper Troublesome Creek trailhead, but shorter treks are possible using other access trails.