Oh, Canada! – The Long Road North: To The Canadian Rockies & Beyond! (7-30-22 thru 8-3-22)

Days 1-5 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-30-22, 2:30 PM, 92ºF, home – Hours of preparations and excitement had led to this!  Resting high on her pink blanket covering a pile of supplies and padding, Lupe smiled broadly in happy anticipation of what was next.  The American Dingo was about to set off on her 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation, and this wasn’t just any old Dingo Vacation, oh no!

Are we really going to Canada and Alaska, SPHP?  It’s been 3 years!  I was afraid we might not ever see them again!

SPHP tried to sound convincingly cheerful.

Absolutely, sweet puppy!  At least, if Canada will actually let us cross the border.  Think I’ve got everything all lined up.  We’ll just have to see how it goes.  Should be fine, Canada is officially open again!

Before turning the key, SPHP looked over at Lupe.  She was so beautiful, and so happy!  This late July afternoon truly was a rare and wonderful occasion, only the 5th time the Carolina Dog had ever set off for Alaska!

Epic!  Yet also bittersweet.  SPHP was filled with grief and remorse.  The left side of Lupe’s face had an ugly wound on it.  Brand new.  And it was all SPHP’s fault on this otherwise joyful day.

Loopster ready to set out for Canada & Alaska for the first time in 3 years!

Happened just yesterday.  At some point in the last month or so Lupe must have rolled in something, because she’d had a black, sticky, tar-like substance clinging to a small clump of fur on her face for the last several weeks.  When it wouldn’t wash off, wanting Loop to look her finest for her next big Dingo Vacation, SPHP had gotten out a scissors to cut away that little clump of gooey fur.

The tar was tougher, and provided more resistance than expected, but a few seconds of cutting with the scissors had finally done the trick.  The tar came off, but when it did, SPHP was instantly shocked and horrified.

Oh, no!  Oh my gosh, Lupe!  What have I done?  I’ve cut your beautiful face wide open!  You didn’t flinch, or bark, or shy away from me.  You should have bit me!  Instead you just looked trustingly into my eyes and let me do this terrible, painful thing to you.  I’m so sorry!  How could I have been so careless and such an idiot?  We’re going to the puppy doctor!

At the emergency clinic, the puppy doctor cut away a loose flap of skin with beautiful fur still clinging to it that was going to die anyway, fully exposing the hideous wound.  The wound wasn’t deep, just a fleshy spot the size of a nickel seeping a little blood.  Staples or stitches to close the gap weren’t required, but Lupe’s fur wasn’t likely to ever grow back.  She would always have a scar.

Lupe went home with an anti-biotic cream and pain pills.

SPHP was guilty, guilty, guilty, but there was nothing more to be done.

Oh, Lupe!  We’re going to have so many grand adventures in Canada and Alaska on this Dingo Vacation!  Going to be just like old times!  You ready?

I can hardly wait, SPHP!

SPHP turned the key, and backed the RAV4 out of the driveway.  After 3 long years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way!

7-31-22, 7:18 AM, 52ºF Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Exactly 3 weeks ago, on the last day of her prior Dingo Vacation to Wyoming, Lupe had been by here on an evening so cold and windy that SPHP had chickened out and driven her straight home.  The Carolina Dog was back, though!  From the Bald Mountain campground off Hwy 14A, Loop trotted toward the familiar open slopes of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).

Setting out for Bald Mountain (L). Photo looks SE.

Are we going to fix the names, SPHP?

We are!  Hard to believe, but it’s been 4 years since we’ve been up on Bald Mountain, Loopster.  A little maintenance is likely in order.

Make that quite a bit of maintenance.  The names were still there, but in poor condition when Lupe found them not too far from the NW end of the vast summit region.  The American Dingo had plenty of time to sniff about while SPHP made extensive repairs.

Loopster by her reconstituted name on Bald Mountain. Photo looks SE.

Once the names were back in order, Lupe naturally completed the easy stroll to the true summit.  Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) and it’s giant FAA golf ball were in sight several miles back to the NW, but all the more distant views were hazy.

Medicine Mountain (L of Center) from Bald Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks NW.

The entire American West fills up with smoke every summer, doesn’t it Looper?  Didn’t use to be that way.

Oh, but aren’t we the lucky ones, SPHP?  Bet we won’t have to worry about smoke once we get far enough N into Canada!

Sure hope you’re right, Loop, and suspect you are, but you never know.  Remember how smoky even Alaska was in 2019?

5:01 PM, 81ºF, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Bald Mountain had been a great morning romp!  Most of the rest of the day had been a long, hot drive from Wyoming on into Montana.  So many cows and horses to bark at!  It had been a wonderful, if shrill time.  Late afternoon now, but Lupe had made it here early enough to honor a long-standing tradition.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)!  We really, truly are going to Canada, aren’t we, SPHP?  We always come here first!

Almost always, Loop.  We didn’t the first time in 2013, but ever since then, yeah.  The Little Belt Mountains are a nice, cool spot to spend a night.

We always climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) when we do come here, SPHP.  So which will it be?  Any preference?

Yes, but we really don’t have to choose between them.  Should have time to visit both!  Whad’ya say we climb Kings Hill first?

Kings Hill true summit. Photo looks S.
Porphyry Peak (L) from Kings Hill. Photo looks WNW.
Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower. Photo looks ENE.
Big Baldy Mountain (Center) from Porphyry Peak. Photo looks NNE.

8-1-22, 12:05 PM, I-15 at Port of Coutts, Montana/Canada border – Only 2 Canadian customs lanes were open.  The RAV4 was 6th in line.

Moment of truth coming up, Loopster!  Hope they don’t make us wait.  Told them on Arrive-CAN that we wouldn’t be here until 3:00 PM.

Waiting won’t be so bad, SPHP, provided Canada ultimately lets us in.  You had to specify the exact hour of arrival?

Yeah.  Knew we’d be here by noon, but decided to give ourselves some slack just in case.  Don’t know what we’ll do if Canada says no, and just sends us away.  We’ll have to plan an entirely different Dingo Vacation, pronto.

Canadian customs, Port of Coutts opposite Sweetgrass, Montana.

For 10 minutes the line seemed stuck.  No movement.  Then suddenly whatever had been the hold-up was over.  Soon SPHP was handing a US passport to the Canadian customs agent.  2 minutes later, the RAV4 was picking up speed, heading N!

Whoo-hoo!  We’re in, Loop!  You’re back in, Canada!  On to Lethbridge!

That was easy, SPHP!  Same old questions they always ask you.

Yup!  Not a word about Covid-19.  All that hassle and worry over nothing.

Our reputation as world class anti-social distancers must have preceded us, SPHP.

Oh, yes!  I’m sure that’s it, Looper.  Anyway, I’m glad it went the way it did.  Smooth sailing now!

So, what’s next, SPHP?  Where are we going first?

Mostly just driving again today, Loopster.  Been so long since we’ve been to Canada and Alaska that I want to make tracks N as fast as we can the next few days.  That doesn’t mean we can’t take the scenic route, though.  How about something old and something new this afternoon?

You’re being coy, SPHP, but OK, surprise me!

Hwy 40 over Highwood Pass was the scenic route.  Kananaskis Country!  Peter Lougheed Provincial Park!  The American Dingo hadn’t been to beautiful Upper Kananaskis Lake since 2014, but saw it again today.

Storm Mountain (10,153 ft.) (Center) from Hwy 40 on the way to Highwood Pass. Photo looks NNE.
Gap Mountain (8,661 ft.) (L) from Highwood Pass. Photo looks NW.
Gorgeous Upper Kananaskis Lake. Photo looks NW.

After a pleasant half hour at Upper Kananaskis Lake, the something new was a trip along washboardy Smith-Dorrien Road, the purpose being to see the Spray Lakes Reservoir for the first time ever.  An odd trail from a picnic ground led a short distance down through a forest to a small cliff overlooking the lake.  A better lakeshore viewpoint appeared only a few miles farther N along the road.

Spray Lakes Reservoir. Big Sister (9,633 ft.) (R of Center). Photo looks N.
On the odd trail overlooking Spray Lakes Reservoir. Photo looks SW.
A better view from right along the shoreline. Photo looks S.

By evening, Lupe was in Banff!

Oh, SPHP!  I love Banff!  Can we do my traditional Pretty Puppy Parade up and down Banff Avenue?  Haven’t done it in ever so long!

Absolutely, Loopster!  Can’t miss out on the Pretty Puppy Parade!

Banff had changed since the last time Lupe was here.  Vehicles were no longer permitted in the heart of downtown.  People were dining at tables out in the street, and a new footbridge was under construction over the Bow River.  Banff was still it’s same old festive self, though, with scenic Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) looming in the distance, lined-up perfectly with Banff Avenue.

The Pretty Puppy Parade, a stroll along Banff Avenue while taking in all the tourists, fancy shops, and sniffing with other dogs as opportunity arose, was a success as always.  3 young men from Maryland wanted to pet Lupe.  They told her how beautiful she was, which made her day!

Back in Banff on the Pretty Puppy Parade! Cascade Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
Bow River looking W toward the new footbridge.

8-2-22, 6:30 AM, Banff – Although the night had been warm, the morning was pleasantly cool as the RAV4 hit Hwy 1 on the way out of Banff.  An incredibly scenic drive was ahead.

Only one day to spend in the Canadian Rockies?  Not nearly enough, SPHP!

Oh, don’t I know it, Loopster?  Remember back in 2013 and 2014 when the Canadian Rockies were as far as we went on your Dingo Vacations?

We enjoyed many glorious adventures here, SPHP!

Indeed we did, Loop!  Even though we’re making tracks N, we’ll still stop at some of our favorite Canadian Rockies highlights today.

I suppose that’s something, SPHP, but sometime we need to come back to really explore again.

So many mountains, so little time!  Lupe was far from alone in wanting to spend more time in the Canadian Rockies.  Even though she reached the turn for Moraine Lake at 7:30 AM, the road was closed.  Signs said the Moraine Lake parking lot was already full.  Even the upper lot at Lake Louise was filling up fast, despite having to pay now.

Crowds had already gathered along the lake shore near the splendid Chateau Lake Louis when Lupe arrived.  Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) was still as spectacular as ever beyond the turquoise lake.

Mount Victoria (Center) from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.
Chateau Lake Louise.

Remember when we used to take the Plain of Six Glaciers trail all the way to the end to see the Death Trap, SPHP?

Of course, I do!  So much fun, we did it twice!  Even saw a wolverine once near the end of the day on the way back down to Lake Louise.  Remember our biggest adventure here, though, Loop?

How could I forget Fairview Mountain, when I’m looking right at it, SPHP?  The views of Mount Victoria, Mount Temple (11,614 ft.), and so many others were absolutely incredible from up there!  We explored Saddle Mountain (7,963 ft.), too!

Fairview Mountain (L) and Mount Victoria (R) from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.

It was a shame Moraine Lake was too crowded to visit, but continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, Lupe got to stop at beautiful Bow Lake, another jumping off region for several fabulous Dingo adventures once upon a time.  Mount Jimmy Simpson was in sight beyond red-roofed Num-Ti-Jah Lodge from the picnic ground along the E shoe.

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from Bow Lake. Photo looks NW.

From over by the lodge, Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) and the Crowfoot Glacier were in sight to the SE.  Bow Glacier Falls and the Bow Glacier above it were visible to the SW.

Bow Peak (L) and the Crowfoot Glacier (R) from Bow Lake. Photo looks SE.
Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls (Center) from Bow Lake. Photo looks SW.

Can we go to Bow Glacier Falls, SPHP?  That’s an awesome trail!

I’d love to, Loopster, but think we should press on.  How about we take the Parker Ridge trail, instead?  Won’t take quite as long.

Parker Ridge (7,612 ft.) near the N end of Banff National Park was a bit of a drive yet.  However, by 10:45 AM, Lupe was on the popular trail that switchbacks roughly 900 feet up to the crest of the ridge.  A short distance beyond the crest she came to the fabulous scenic reward – a splendid view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

Saskatchewan Glacier (L) from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW.

A fun off-trail jaunt on grassy slopes among minor rock formations up to Parker Ridge’s E high point provided an even more spectacular vantage point.  Almost completely snow-clad Castleguard Mountain (10,098 ft.) was in sight across the canyon at the far upper end of the Saskatchewan Glacier.  On this side of the canyon, both Hilda Peak (10,039 ft.) and mighty Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) were in view.

Heading for the Parker Ridge E high point (Center). Photo looks E.
At the Parker Ridge E summit. Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (L), Mount Athabasca (R), Hilda Peak (far R). Photo looks WSW.
Zoomed in a little. Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (Center). Photo looks SW.

Mount Saskatchewan (10,965 ft.) loomed in the distance beyond a long section of the North Saskatchewan River canyon visible below the lake at the toe of the glacier.

Mount Saskatchewan (far L), Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Looking NW, Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in sight beyond Sunwapta Pass.  Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.) stood out just N of the pass.

Mount Athabasca (L), Hilda Peak (beyond cairn), Sunwapta Pass and Mount Wilcox (beyond Lupe), Nigel Peak (R). Photo looks NW.

Tremendous views all around, but it was hard not to just keep coming back to that magnificent spectacle of the Saskatchewan Glacier!

Castleguard Mountain (L) and the Saskatchewan Glacier (L of Center) from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW.
Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Parker Ridge was the big outing of the day, but far from the last scenic stop.  Sunwapta Pass where Jasper National Park began was only a bit farther N, and just down the road from the pass the Athabasca Glacier was in view right from the highway.  A must see!

Mount Andromeda (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (Center). Photo looks SW.
Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The Athabasca Glacier was it for the day as far as glaciers.  Continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, some incredible waterfalls were the new focus.  Sunwapta Falls came first, followed by Athabasca Falls.  Both were foaming gray torrents, thundering into narrow gorges below.

Between these falls, Lupe got to stop at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River.  The American Dingo enjoyed a romp through the forest looking for squirrels, but didn’t see any.

Sunwapta Falls. Photo looks NE.
Near the brink. Photo looks NE.
Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground. Photo looks S.
At Athabasca Falls.
Mount Kerkeslin (9,698 ft.) from Athabasca Falls. Photo looks SE.

After a quick refueling stop in Jasper, the RAV4 rolled on, taking Lupe W into British Columbia on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  The American Dingo got out briefly for a look at Moose Lake, and yet again for a pleasant trek down to Overlander Falls, where she scrambled among the rocks by the huge swirling whirlpool below it.

Moose Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park.
How Overlander Falls got its name.
Down by the whirlpool.

The evening ended on a gloomier note with Mount Robson (12,989 ft.), highest peak of the Canadian Rockies, shrouded in clouds and light rain.

At least we got to see Mount Robson before, SPHP.  Remember when we went through the Valley of a Thousand Falls all the way to Berg Lake?

Yes!  A fantastic trail, Looper.  We ought to do that again someday.

8-3-22, 7:31 AM – Fog drifted among the mountains.  Still overcast, gray clouds spit light rain.  Good day for a long drive!  Arriving fairly early, Lupe did get out of the RAV4 for a little while to visit Rearguard Falls, which she had all to herself this morning.  Like all the other waterfalls Looper had been to yesterday, the sheer volume and power of the flow was overwhelming.

Rearguard Falls is the upper limit of the Fraser River’s Chinook salmon run.
On the elaborate boardwalk leading down to the falls.
Right next to Rearguard Falls, which is actually more like a big rapids.
Rearguard Falls. Both Rearguard and Overlander Falls are on the Fraser River.
By the Fraser River just upstream of Rearguard Falls.

The next stop came 1.5 hours later at the Goat River rest area, a favorite secluded spot on the way to Prince George.  Without any signage, SPHP missed the turn, and had to go back.

Enjoying a sniff at the secluded Goat River rest area.
Along the Goat River near the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge.
Goat River downstream view.

Lupe’s final stop before Prince George was at the Ancient Forest.  With time somewhat of the essence, the Carolina Dog did only the basic main loop, instead of the entire trail system as she’d done once before.  That still allowed her to visit both Treebeard and the Radies Tree again, two enormous 1,000 year old western red cedars.

Arriving at the Ancient Forest.
Lupe explored only the main loop (in green) today.
On the raised boardwalk near the start of the loop.
About the ancient western red cedars.
Among the ferns on the way to the upper part of the loop.
Treebeard, named after J.R.R Tolkien’s ent from middle earth.
Info about the Radies tree.
Radies tree.

With many miles to go, it could rain all day long, if it wanted to, which it did off and on.  Lupe snoozed on her pink blanket most of the afternoon, occasionally opening an eye to gaze out the window.  Going to Alaska!  Could anything be more fun?  The drive through the drizzle was so very scenic and soothing.  A marvelous day!

8-3-22, 5:22 PM – The afternoon was about shot by the time Lupe reached her next stop of any significance.  Can’t miss the dazzling flower gardens at Steelhead Park in the little town of Houston!  An impressive variety of lilies seemed to be the specialty this year.

Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia.
Lilies.

Many other kinds of flowers and decorative plants were featured, too.  Steelhead Park isn’t very big, so Lupe had time to visit nearly the entire collection.  The only genuine disappointment was that the fountain still wasn’t working.  It hadn’t been in 2019, either, the last time Loop was here, but had always been operational before then.

Another colorful display.
By the Steelhead fountain.

Wonder why they don’t fix it, SPHP?  The fountain was always such a lovely centerpiece!

Lack of funds, I suppose, Looper.  Seems a shame, doesn’t it?

8-3-22, 6:21 PM, Telkwa – The sky remained overcast as Lupe stood on a new sidewalk on a levee overlooking the Bulkley River.

Bulkley River, Telkwa, British Columbia.

Not much farther to Smithers now, Looper.  We’ll be there soon.

Smithers!  That’s where Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) is, SPHP!  And the Babine Mountains, too.  Remember Harvey Mountain, the Onions, and Astlais Mountain?

Sure do, Loop!  Hope the weather clears up tomorrow!  Been 5 days, and we’re nearly 1,800 miles from home now.  That ought to be about enough driving for a while.

Oh, are we going to climb a mountain tomorrow, SPHP?

If the weather cooperates, Loopster.  We’ll see.

On the way to Smithers, a small patch of blue appeared to the N, and the sky brightened to the W.  At dusk in Driftwood Canyon, it almost looked like the whole sky was starting to clear, but it was hard to tell for sure.

Along the Bulkley River, Telkwa, British Columbia, Canada 8-3-22

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Fairview Mountain & Saddle Mountain, Banff National Park, Canada (8-2-16)

Day 4 of Lupe’s summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Well, Looper, how about we go see Lake Louise again before hitting the trail?  Lupe was all for it, which was a good thing, since SPHP would have pretty much insisted on it.  The view of snow-clad Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) from Lake Louise is among the most beautiful and famous scenes in the Canadian Rockies.

The stroll down the trail from the upper parking lot to the boat house where they rent out canoes took only a few minutes.  Suddenly, Lupe was back at Lake Louise for the first time since her summer of 2014 Dingo Vacation over 2 years ago.  The tranquil, turquoise lake was as gorgeous as ever.   Maybe there was a little less snow on Mount Victoria, but it was still an awesome scene.

Lupe arrives near the Lake Louise boat house early on this cool, clear morning.
Lupe arrives near the Lake Louise boat house early on this cool, clear morning.
Mount Victoria from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.

It was still relatively early (7:11 AM, 39°F).  No one was out on the lake yet, although the usual crowd from Chateau Lac Louise was already gathering to admire the scene.  Lupe and SPHP ambled over closer to the grand hotel.  See that mountain, Loop?  That’s Fairview Mountain (8,986 ft.) where you’re going today!

Fairview Mountain, seen here from Lake Louise, was Lupe’s main peakbagging objective for the day. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe posed for a photo from the shore of Lake Louise with Fairview Mountain in the background.  A couple minutes later, when she jumped up on a low rock wall for another shot of Mount Victoria, tourists seemed to think it was quite a trick.  Lupe basked in love and admiration.  Cameras clicked like she was about to hold a press conference.

When Lupe leapt up on this low rock wall for another shot of Mount Victoria beyond Lake Louise, tourists seemed to think she had performed quite a feat.

Before the Carolina Dog could address her new fans with any long-winded speeches, SPHP led her away.  After all, she had a mountain to climb!  Lupe and SPHP headed for the Saddleback Trail, which splits off of the short path between the boat house and upper Lake Louise parking lot.

The Saddleback Trail begins climbing through a dense forest at a moderate to fairly steep pace.  For quite a distance, there’s little to see except trees.  After 0.4 km or so, Lupe passed by junctions with the Moraine Lake Highline trail and the Fairview Overlook trail.  A sign said the Fairview Overlook trail went 0.7 km to the viewpoint, which presumably looks out over Lake Louise.  A 2.3 km loop can be made back to the boat house.

The Fairview Overlook trail sounded like a nice little jaunt, likely rewarded with a great view of Lake Louise, but Lupe was going higher, much higher!  Lupe and SPHP pressed on.  Lupe had easily gone over half of the 3.7 km from Lake Louise to Saddleback Pass by the time she reached the first big opening in the forest.  Now Lupe could see Saddle Mountain up ahead.

On the Saddleback Trail on the way to Saddle Pass. Here Lupe’s broken out of the mature forest to get her first clear view of Saddle Mountain up ahead. Photo looks S.

The slope up to Saddle Pass became steeper.  Switchbacks appeared along the trail to help make the climb easier.  As Lupe gained elevation, more glorious sights began to appear.  Soon she could see the snowy summit of Mount Temple (11,614 ft.) poking up over Saddle Pass.

Mount Temple pokes up above Saddle Pass, an early indication of the glorious scenes in store for Lupe higher up.

As Lupe neared Saddle Pass, the trail gained elevation much more gradually than before.  Sheol Mountain (9,117 ft.) and Haddo Peak (10,072 ft.) were in view directly ahead.

The trail climbed much more gently as Lupe neared Saddle Pass. Sheol Mountain (L) and Haddo Peak (R) were now in view.
The trail climbed much more gently as Lupe neared Saddle Pass. Sheol Mountain (L) and Haddo Peak (R) were now in view.

When Lupe reached Saddle Pass, she came upon a sign clearly marking the side trail that goes the rest of the way up Fairview Mountain.  The Saddleback Trail continued over the pass down into Sheol Valley, eventually reaching Paradise Valley far below.

Fairview Mountain from Saddle Pass. Lake Louise is on the other side of the mountain from here. Photo looks NW.
Fairview Mountain from Saddle Pass. Lake Louise is on the other side of the mountain from here. Photo looks NW.
This sign was along the Saddleback Trail as it headed for Sheol Valley a little beyond the side trail to Fairview Mountain. Sheol Valley and Paradise Valley are prime grizzly bear habitat.

Lupe and SPHP left the Saddleback trail to take the side trail up Fairview Mountain.  The side trail passed through a short section of forest, then began a steep rocky ascent above tree line.

Looking SE down on Saddle Mountain (L) from the spur trail up Fairview Mountain. Saddle Pass and the intersection of the Saddleback Trail & Fairview Mountain Trail are seen at the lower R.

There was a fair amount of loose rock on the steep, narrow trail, but Lupe had no problem climbing up.  She had plenty of opportunity to relax and enjoy the views while SPHP frequently paused for air.  Lupe followed the trail all the way to the summit of Fairview Mountain.  Magnificent views were in every direction, but Mount Victoria was the first splendor to attract the eye.

Lupe reaches the summit of Fairview Mountain! Mount Victoria is in view beyond her. Photo looks SW.
Lupe up at the NE end of the Fairview Mountain summit. Photo looks NE at peaks of the Canadian Rockies on the other side of the Bow River valley.

Despite the splendid mountain scenery all around, a different view caught and held Lupe’s attention.  A chipmunk was only a few paces away right here at the very top of Fairview Mountain!

While SPHP gazed at scenery, this chipmunk kept Lupe entertained up on Fairview Mountain! Mount Victoria in the background. Photo looks SW.
Apparently the chipmunk appreciated a grand view, too, and was able to earn a living up on Fairview Mountain panhandling from visitors. Haddo Peak (10,072 ft.) (L), Mount Aberdeen (10,358 ft.) (Center – look straight down to see the chipmunk), and Mount Lefroy (11,293 ft.) (R) are in view here.
Lupe and the chipmunk stare each other down.

The nimble chipmunk was a world class, lightning fast, scrambler.  Lupe stared helplessly at the enticing Dingo treat.  Meanwhile, the chipmunk pondered how to get safely past Lupe to plead for a handout.  During the impasse, SPHP admired the planet from this terrific vantage point, occasionally interrupting Lupe’s reverie to demand that she pose for the camera.

Mount Daly (10,328 ft.) (Center) with the Bath Glacier below it. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Mount Hector (11,135 ft.). Photo looks N using the telephoto lens.
Looking down on Saddle Mountain (lower L). The Bow River valley is seen beyond it. Sheol Valley leading down into Paradise Valley is in view at the lower R. Photo looks SE.
Looking down on Saddle Mountain (lower L). The Bow River valley is seen beyond it. Sheol Valley leading down into Paradise Valley is in view at the lower R. Photo looks SE.
Haddo Peak (L), Mount Aberdeen (Center), Mount Lefroy (R of Center), and part of Mount Victoria (R). Photo looks SW.
Haddo Peak (L), Mount Aberdeen (Center), Mount Lefroy (R of Center), and part of Mount Victoria (R). Photo looks SW.
Mount Victoria. Photo looks SW.
Mount Victoria with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
A closer look at Haddo Peak (L), Mount Aberdeen and the Aberdeen Glacier (Center), and Mount Lefroy (R). Photo looks SW.
Mount Temple (11,614 ft.) is seen beyond Lupe on the L. Photo looks S from Fairview Mountain.
Mount Temple (11,614 ft.) is seen beyond Lupe on the L. Photo looks S from Fairview Mountain.
Mount Temple (Center) is seen beyond Sheol Mountain (R). Photo looks S.
The N face of Mount Temple. Photo looks S using the telephoto lens.
The N face of Mount Temple. Photo looks S using the telephoto lens.
Mount Aberdeen and the Aberdeen glacier (L) and Mount Lefroy (R). Photo looks SW.

For 20 minutes, Lupe and SPHP were alone at the top of Fairview Mountain.  After that, a steady stream of climbers came and went.  Lupe and SPHP met Krystin, a civil engineer from Calgary, who had once scrambled up Mount Temple.  SPHP was mightily impressed, but Krystin said lots of people do it, although certain moves are required going up a band of cliffs.

Scrambling up Mount Temple didn’t sound like anything Lupe and SPHP could tackle.  Lupe settled for having her picture taken with Krystin.

Krystin & Lupe on Fairview Mountain with Mount Temple in the background on the L. Krystin, a civil engineer from Calgary, had once scrambled up Mount Temple. Photo looks S.

People came and went.  SPHP chatted with Krystin and a few others.  The chipmunk stuffed its cheeks with peanuts, raisins and granola offered by the crowd, unmolested by Lupe.  Conditions were perfect for hanging around enjoying the stupendous views!

Looking down on part of Lake Louise. Photo looks NW.
Looking down on part of Lake Louise. Photo looks NW.
Mount Victoria again. The Plain of Six Glaciers trail on the NW side of the valley below leads up to the base of Mount Victoria and a view of the Death Trap. Lupe took the Plain of Six Glaciers trail on both her summer of 2013 and 2014 Dingo Vacations. It is another trail in the area very much worth exploring, and sports a tea house along the way. Photo looks SW.
The summits of Mount Aberdeen (L) and Mount Lefroy (R) using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
The summits of Mount Aberdeen (L) and Mount Lefroy (R) using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
A final look at Mount Victoria from Fairview Mountain. Photo looks SW.

After more than 2 wonderful hours on Fairview Mountain, it was time for Lupe to get moving again.  SPHP intended to simply follow the spur trail up Fairview Mountain all the way back down to Saddle Pass.  Somehow though, before getting even 0.25 of the way down, SPHP realized Lupe was off the intended trail and on some kind of steep shortcut.

Lots of others had come this way, too, but the shortcut didn’t really save any time.  The very steep “trail” eventually evaporated in a jumble of boulders.  When Lupe and SPHP finally reached the Saddleback Trail again, Lupe had to take it back up to Saddle Pass.  Lupe wasn’t ready to return to Lake Louise quite yet!  She was going to climb Saddle Mountain, too.

SPHP looked for a side trail off the Saddleback Trail leading to Saddle Mountain, but found none, despite there being one on the maps.  Lupe and SPHP finally just headed into the forest toward the mountain.  As Lupe climbed Saddle Mountain’s W ridge, she did come to a faint, braided trail among the rocks.

Lupe climbing the W ridge of Saddle Mountain. Although she found a faint trail, most of the way up was simply an easy scramble among rocks and boulders. Photo looks E.

The summit ridge on Saddle Mountain was hundreds of feet long NE/SW with high points toward each end.  Lupe arrived first up at the SW end where there was a big cairn.  Although Saddle Mountain isn’t nearly as high as Fairview Mountain, it did offer beautiful views farther up Paradise Valley.

Lupe arrives on top of Saddle Mountain. For some indiscernible reason the American Dingo had a sly look on her face. Beyond her are Mount Temple (L), a view farther up Paradise Valley, and part of Sheol Mountain (R). Photo looks SSW.
The upper end of Sheol Valley (Center) with the top of Mount Victoria looming over the ridge. The junction of the Saddleback trail and Fairview Mountain trail in Saddle Pass is seen to the R of Lupe. Sheol Mountain is on the (L), with Haddo Peak (L of Center). Photo looks WSW from Saddle Mountain.
The upper end of Sheol Valley (Center) with the top of Mount Victoria looming over the ridge. The junction of the Saddleback trail and Fairview Mountain trail in Saddle Pass is seen to the R of Lupe. Sheol Mountain is on the (L), with Haddo Peak (L of Center). Photo looks WSW from Saddle Mountain.
Looking NNE along the summit ridge of Saddle Mountain. Mount Hector is seen in the distance on the (L).
Looking NNE along the summit ridge of Saddle Mountain. Mount Hector is seen in the distance on the (L).
Fairview Mountain as seen from Saddle Mountain. The Saddleback Trail is seen far below leading to Saddle Pass toward the L. The very steep “trail” Lupe took down Fairview Mountain is seen faintly leading straight down toward the switchbacks on the Saddleback Trail right above Lupe. Parts of the Fairview Mountain trail are seen even more faintly zig-zagging down toward the forest on the L. Photo looks NW.

Since the high point near the NE end of the summit ridge appeared to be slightly higher than the one near the cairn at the SW end, Lupe had to go over there to reach the true summit of Saddle Mountain.  By the time she got there, Lupe and SPHP were no longer entirely alone.  Another climber had appeared back at the cairn.

Lupe at the true summit of Saddle Mountain. Photo looks SW at Sheol Mountain (L) and Haddo Peak (R).
Lupe at the true summit of Saddle Mountain. Photo looks SW at Sheol Mountain (L) and Haddo Peak (R).
Haddo Peak (L) and Mount Victoria (R) from the true summit of Saddle Mountain. Photo looks WSW.
Haddo Peak (L) and Mount Victoria (R) from the true summit of Saddle Mountain. Photo looks WSW.
The little turquoise blue gem at the base of Mount Temple is Lake Annette. Lupe had taken the Paradise Valley trail to Lake Annette on 7-22-13 during her summer of 2013 Dingo Vacation. Photo looks S.
The little turquoise blue gem at the base of Mount Temple is Lake Annette. Lupe had taken the Paradise Valley trail to Lake Annette on 7-22-13 during her summer of 2013 Dingo Vacation. Photo looks S.
Mount Temple, Lake Annette and Paradise Valley from Saddle Mountain. Photo looks S.
Mount Victoria from Saddle Mountain using the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.
Summit of Mount Temple using the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.

The other climber was gone by the time Lupe returned to the cairn at the SW high point.  Lupe and SPHP spent a fabulous 30 minutes in solitude on Saddle Mountain.  Then it was time to begin the return trip to Lake Louise.

Chateau Lake Louise from Saddle Mountain. Icefield Parkway Hwy 93 winds its way N past Mount Hector in the distance. Photo looks N.

It was almost dinner time for the American Dingo by the time she was back at the G6 (5:27 PM, 78°F).  Instead of eating right away, though, Lupe and SPHP left Lake Louise heading N on Hwy 1 to Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Lupe arrived at the picnic ground on the E shore of lovely Bow Lake in time to have her evening meal there.  By then the sky had clouded up.  Although the mountaintops were no longer in view, the gloomy sky soon caused everyone else to depart.  Lupe and SPHP had Bow Lake to themselves.

Tomorrow, Lupe would continue N to more adventures in the Canadian Rockies, hoping for a break in the clouds.  In the meantime, though, Lupe dined and relaxed listening to gentle waves breaking on the shore of Bow Lake.

Lupe at Bow Lake.
Lupe at Bow Lake.

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Lake Louise & the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail (7-21-13)

Lupe arrived in Canada for the very first time on the morning of July 20, 2013.  By afternoon she was in Banff in the beautiful Canadian Rockies.  Lupe and SPHP toured Banff the rest of the day and all morning on the 21st, but by afternoon it was time to leave the crowds behind.  Lupe and SPHP left Banff heading W in the G6 on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1.

SPHP intended to take Lupe to Sunshine Meadows, which isn’t far from Banff.  From Sunshine Meadows, Lupe and SPHP could take the trail up over Healy Pass to explore the Egypt Lake area.  SPHP left Hwy 1 intending to head up to Sunshine Meadows, but almost immediately found out that the road was closed for construction.  Heavy rains in June, 2013 had flooded and damaged the road.

Lupe and SPHP wound up driving on to Lake Louise, arriving a bit after 3:00 PM.  It was a bad time to arrive.  All the parking lots were full and cars were parked alongside the road for a great distance.  Lupe is a lucky dingo though, and SPHP soon found a parking place in the upper parking lot near the lake.

Lake Louise was gorgeous and busy.   Most of the crowds were at the NE end of the lake near the Chateau Lake Louise and the boathouse where they rent out canoes.  There was still time for Lupe and SPHP to make the round trip hike up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail beyond Lake Louise and back.  Lupe and SPHP set off on the Lakeshore trail.  The Lakeshore trail goes a little over 2 km right along the NW shore of Lake Louise heading SW with little or no elevation gain.

Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada
Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada
Lupe first reached Lake Louise near the boathouse where they rent out canoes.
Lupe first reached Lake Louise near the boathouse where they rent out canoes.
Lupe near the start of the Lakeshore Trail at Lake Louise 7-21-13
Lupe at Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-21-13
Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) from Lake Louise.
Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) from Lake Louise.  The Plain of Six Glaciers trail would take Lupe up to the base of Mount Victoria just to the right of the lowest big patch of snow.
Lupe checks out the grounds at the Chateau Lake Louise. Like the Banff Springs Hotel, the Chateau Lake Louise was originally a Canadian Pacific Railroad Hotel.
Lupe checks out the grounds at the Chateau Lake Louise. Like the Banff Springs Hotel, the Chateau Lake Louise was originally a Canadian Pacific Railroad hotel.

Lupe continued beyond Lake Louise on the Plain of Six Glaciers trail, which soon starts climbing as it continues up the valley towards Mt. Victoria.  A few km on the Plain of Six Glaciers trail brought Lupe to the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse.  Lupe just isn’t that big on tea or coffee, although she probably would have gone for some cookies or chocolate cake if SPHP had mentioned that the teahouse had those delicacies as well.

A look back at Chateau Lake Louise from along the Lakeshore Trail.
A look back at Chateau Lake Louise from along the Lakeshore trail.
The Plain of Six Glaciers trail on the way to the teahouse.
The Plain of Six Glaciers trail on the way to the teahouse.

From the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse, it was another 1.3 km to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail at the base of Mt. Victoria.  Lupe and SPHP continued on to the very end of the trail.

Lupe at the start of the last 1.3 km section of trail going onward to the base of Mount Victoria from near the teahouse.
Lupe at the start of the last 1.3 km section of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail going to the base of Mount Victoria from near the teahouse.
Mt. Lefroy (R) and The Mitre (center) from the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail. Philip Stanley Abbot fell to his death from near the top of Mount Lefroy on 8-3-1896. News of the tragedy inspired great interest in mountain climbing in the Canadian Rockies.
Mt. Lefroy (11,293 ft.) (R) and The Mitre (9,836 ft.) (Center) from the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. Philip Stanley Abbot fell to his death from near the top of Mount Lefroy on 8-3-1896 on his third attempt to be the first to climb Lefroy (he had tried and failed twice before in 1895). News of the tragedy inspired great interest in mountain climbing in the Canadian Rockies.  American Dingoes, however, prefer to avoid falling off precipices.  Lupe showed no interest in climbing Mt. Lefroy.
This glacier-filled canyon between Mt. Victoria (R) and Mt. Lefroy (L) is known as The Death Trap.
This glacier-filled canyon between Mt. Victoria (R) and Mt. Lefroy (L) is known as The Death Trap.
The Death Trap 7-21-13
The Death Trap as seen from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  Abbot hut is supposed to be at the upper end of The Death Trap, but SPHP couldn’t see it.
Intrepid Carolina Dog Lupe near The Death Trap 7-21-13
Intrepid Carolina Dog Lupe near The Death Trap 7-21-13
Lake Louise from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.
Lake Louise from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.

SPHP never did figure out what six glaciers the trail was named after.  The only really big glacier in view was the Victoria Glacier coming down through The Death Trap.  Presumably some of the glaciers have melted away over the years.  Lupe and SPHP still had a great time going up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  The trail is in very good condition and even relatively small children can manage it.

Although the trail had been very crowded when Lupe and SPHP had left Chateau Lake Louise earlier in the afternoon, Lupe and SPHP were the very last to leave from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  The trail was now deserted.

Returning to Chateau Lake Louise.
Returning to Chateau Lake Louise.

Mount Victoria from Lake Louise 7-21-13On the way back to Lake Louise, not long after passing the teahouse, Lupe and SPHP saw a wolverine ahead on the trail.  At first the wolverine seemed rather curious and stared at Lupe.  Lupe stared back intently at the wolverine.  After pondering Lupe for a few moments, the wolverine concluded it had better not tangle with an American Dingo.  It ran away out of sight down the trail.  The wolverine had a rather peculiar gait, a kind of loping along.

It turned out the wolverine had not left the trail.  Instead, it had stopped to see if Lupe was still coming.  Lupe and SPHP caught up with the wolverine several more times before the wolverine decided to quit the trail and go into the brush.  That was the last Lupe saw of the wolverine.  Lupe was rather fortunate to see a wild wolverine at all.  Wolverines are quite rare.

The wolverine wasn’t the only wildlife Lupe saw.  Once back at Lake Louise, when Lupe was almost to the parking lot, she saw a porcupine.  Despite wolverines’ reputation for ferocity, it turns out porcupines are much braver than wolverines.  The porcupine was not the least bit afraid of American Dingoes.   The porcupine took its sweet time sauntering across the trail before Lupe could pass.Lake Louise 7-21-13Lupe and SPHP returned to Lake Louise a year later on July 24, 2014 to make the hike up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail again.  Click here for photos and commentary from that trip!

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