Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 304 – Getting High in the Black Hills with Peakbagger Dennis Stewart (5-5-22)

8:40 AM, USFS Road No. 297 –  Oh, it was on, and Lupe was excited!  After a quick weather-shortened introductory jaunt with new friend Dennis Stewart out to a couple of peaks of the limestone plateau country yesterday, the weather was much improved.  “Stewy” was ready to hit it hard today.  Time permitting, 7 of the 14 highest named peaks in South Dakota were on his agenda, and the American Dingo had every intention of getting high with him at each one.

Starting the day in the Negro Creek valley along USFS Road No. 297. Photo looks NNE.

With that many peaks to visit, even though none of them were all that hard to get to, there wasn’t going to be a lot of time for dilly-dallying.  Within minutes of when SPHP parked the RAV4 at a wide spot along USFS Road No. 297, everyone was ready.

Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) was first.  Although actually the lowest peak Dennis would be climbing today, it was the steepest and involved the most elevation gain from the starting point, a little over 900 feet.

Dennis and Loop about to set out for Medicine Mountain (L of Center). Photo looks W.

An old jeep trail going W from No. 297 got things off to an easy start.  Less than 100 feet of elevation gain led to USFS Road No. 297.3F, which wasn’t much help, since 3F ran almost horizontally N/S along the E slope instead of toward the summit.  Crossing the road to head straight up the mountain, No. 297.3F was encountered a second time 200 feet higher, but the situation was no different here.

Coming up the jeep trail. Photo looks ENE.
Dennis checks his GPS after reaching USFS Road No. 297.3F. Photo looks SSW.
And checks it again after reaching No. 297.3F a second time. Photo looks N.

After crossing No. 297.3F the second time, that was it for roads.  The rest of the way up was merely a fairly steep trudge higher.  A little deadfall and a few scattered boulders to contend with, but otherwise a romp through open pine forest.

Loop squinting in weak sunshine for the first time in the last couple of days as she heads up Medicine Mountain’s E slope. Photo looks W.
Stewy coming up the E slope. Photo looks E.
Loop posing for Dennis on a rock. Photo looks NW.
Starting to get close to the top. Photo looks WNW.

The last 100+ feet of elevation gain was steepest.  Dennis preferred to go directly up the E face.  However, Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) has two summits, the S one being the true summit.  Looper hadn’t been here in nearly 5 years, but SPHP was pretty certain that by angling NW toward the saddle between the two summits, the Carolina Dog could pick up a use trail that would get her to the top.

A little longer, but the Lazy Dingo route worked out perfectly.  While Dennis proved his mettle against the mountain, Lupe came to a nicely rounded clearing up at the saddle, easily sniffed out the use trail, and was there in time to greet Dennis as he reached the summit.

On the grassy saddle between the N and S summits. Photo looks SSW.
Up on Medicine Mountain’s S summit. Photo looks S.

9:34 AM, Medicine Mountain (6,878 ft.) – The true summit was a rock tucked in at the base of a small birch tree that was slightly higher than others nearby.  After the required summit shot, a short rest break was in order.  Lupe shared a chocolate coconut bar with SPHP, and drank some water.  Dennis opened a can of cashews, and enjoyed a few while sitting on a big rock, offering some cashews to SPHP, too.

Getting to be a beautiful day!  Partly cloudy with blue sky and sunshine.  As everyone relaxed, the big view was toward the SE, where several of the highest peaks in South Dakota were visible on the horizon.

Dennis had already been to Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), South Dakota’s high point, many years ago back when it was still officially Harney Peak, and wouldn’t be returning on this trip.  SPHP pointed out two others, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) and Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.), that were on his current itinerary.

Looper near Medicine Mountain’s true summit, the rock (R of Center) beneath the birch tree. Photo looks NW.
Black Elk Peak (far L), Little Devils Tower (L), and Sylvan Hill (L of Center) all on the horizon. Photo looks SE.
Two peakbagging nuts, plus a can of nuts, on Medicine Mountain.

The view NW was of more immediate interest.  Dennis’ next 3 objectives, Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.), Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) and Copper Mountain (6,920 ft.) were in sight.  In fact, all of the other peaks Dennis intended to climb today were visible from Medicine Mountain, since Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.) was also in view off to the SSW.

Green Mountain (L of Center) and Copper Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

The views were sweet, and Medicine Mountain had been a decent climb, but with so much left to do today, less than half an hour went by before it was already Onward, puppy ho! time.  One mountain down, six to go!

10:49 AM, junction of Sixmile Road and USFS Road No. 297.3O – Next up, Copper Mountain (6,920 ft.)!  Crossing Sixmile Road, Lupe looked for a spot where an old road once headed N.  A little deadfall to contend with, but this open lane made what would otherwise have been an annoying, and needlessly difficult task contending with a thick forest of young pines, a simple one.

Before long, the lane opened onto a big clearing.  At the far end, another lane was visible.  Following these lanes was the secret to getting to the summit of Copper Mountain without undue aggravation.

At the clearing with the next open lane (R) in sight on the ridge ahead. Photo looks N.

According to the topo map, Copper Mountain’s summit was 0.33 mile due N of where the RAV4 was parked.  However, as everyone was getting close to that region, where it was impossible to see much of anything due to all the young pines, SPHP surprised Dennis by insisting that the true summit was actually well off to the E near a line of cliffs.

Trusting the map, Stewy was skeptical to say the least.  However, since there was nothing to be seen here, and SPHP assured him that not only was the true summit E, but that the best views by far were available from the cliffs over that way, Dennis went along with the detour.

By now, the wide open lanes were gone, but it was still possible to follow narrower ones through the trees until the terrain began to rise.  Soon the forest began opening up as the ground became rockier.

Upon reaching the limestone platform along the E edge of the mountain, Dennis set his GPS unit on what appeared to be the highest rock, and took a reading.  After wavering around, it settled in at about 6,946 feet.

Lupe on the rock where Dennis took his GPS elevation reading. Photo looks SE.

After gathering this data point, everyone headed SE to the cliffs at end of the platform where the big views were.  A cairn Looper hadn’t seen here before, now sat on the highest rocks along the S edge.

Dennis didn’t bother with another GPS reading, since it seemed unlikely to yield a significantly different result.  Instead, several minutes were spent exploring the rocks along the cliff edge while taking in the views.  Medicine Mountain stood out 2.25 miles SE, with some of Dennis’ higher objectives well beyond it in the distance.

Sylvan Hill (far L) on the horizon, Medicine Mountain (L of Center). Photo looks SE.
Loop and Dennis at the far SE end of Copper Mountain. Photo looks SE.
L to R beyond Dennis: Black Elk Peak, Peak 6920, Little Devils Tower. Sylvan Hill (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.
Loopster and Dennis over by the cairn. Photo looks WNW.
On Copper Mountain.

Time to head back!  Not to the RAV4, but to the region shown on the topo map as Copper Mountain’s summit.  Returning to the rock where Dennis had taken the elevation reading, everyone then went WNW, first down a slope, then gradually higher through deadfall and dense young pines tall enough to hide what was ahead.

The terrain flattened out.  Dennis reported that, according to the map, this was Copper Mountain’s summit.  Laying the GPS unit on a log about a foot above the ground, another elevation reading was taken.  In just a moment it would be clear whether SPHP or the topo map was correct about the location of Copper Mountain’s true summit.  After bouncing around a bit, the reading settled out at 6,947 ft.

One foot higher than the rock back E!  Except that here the GPS unit was a foot above the ground, resting on the log instead of a rock.  Within the limits of the GPS unit’s accuracy, it was a tie.

Hmm.  Well, so be it.  There were no views here at the W summit except of the thick stand of pines in all directions.  SPHP didn’t even bother to take a photo, although Stewy did.

12:11 PM – Less than a mile W of where the RAV4 had been parked near Copper Mountain, SPHP turned S off Sixmile Road onto USFS Road No. 693.  0.125 mile, and No. 693 turned SW.  After yesterday’s precipitation, the road was pretty soft here, with a couple of ruts in it.

SPHP parked the RAV4.  The top of Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) was only 0.4 mile SE.  Somewhat more than that following the road, but still within easy reach.

Striking out for Odakota Mountain along USFS Road No. 693. Photo looks SW.

After a jog to the W, the road turned SE, climbing gradually all the time.  Halfway to the summit, No. 693 topped out and curved SW toward Long Draw.  Abandoning the road, Lupe traveled ESE through a gently sloping field toward a small pillar of limestone near the trees.  Coming to a fence a little beyond the pillar, she ducked under it, then followed it S.

Heading for Odakota Mountain’s summit after leaving No. 693. Photo looks ESE.

SPHP’s intention had originally been to go farther E in order to approach Odakota’s summit ridge near the NE end, which past experience had shown to be the easiest route up.  The problem coming up from the SW had always been that the barbed wire fence, which ran right by the SW end of the ridge, was broken down and dangerous due to a huge jumble of deadfall that had collapsed upon it.

However, Dennis had left USFS Road No. 693 before SPHP, getting a head start following a jeep trail trail toward the SW end of the summit ridge.  Hoping to intercept him, Lupe continued S along the fence all the way to the end of the ridge.  Amazingly, since the last time the American Dingo was here more than 4.5 years ago, someone had removed the deadfall and repaired the fence.

Stewy had already made his way up to the summit.  A 20 foot climb got Lupe up onto the flat ridge, which was still full of deadfall.  Going 200 feet NE, Loop found Dennis where a tall, skinny white rock cairn had once stood.  The white rocks were still here, but now all tumbled over.  Dennis was busily setting up his tripod and resurrecting the cairn in preparation for his traditional summit selfie.

On the lovely summit of South Dakota’s 2nd highest mountain. Photo looks SW.
Dennis rebuilding the cairn.

12:35 PM, Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) – Poor Odakota Mountain!  South Dakota’s second highest peak was a mess.  Surviving pines and a crop of new ones grew among what remained of a forest devastated by pine bark beetles 10 years ago.  No views from the cairn, although both Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.) and a pond down by the old Boy Scout camp could be seen to the S from a little farther SW along the summit ridge.

Certainly not much up here to make Dennis want to hang around.  After getting a group selfie shot, he packed up his camera and tripod, and took the easy way down off the NE end of the ridge.  Meanwhile, Lupe and SPHP went to take a quick look at the view of Bear Mountain and the Boy Scout pond.  It was actually a little better than the last time Loop had been here, since more trees had fallen over.

Bear Mountain (R) and the Boy Scout pond (L of Center). Photo looks SSE.

Turning around to leave and catch up with Dennis, SPHP saw something Lupe had never noticed on Odakota Mountain before.  Back in the trees, only 25 feet from where Stewy had rebuilt the cairn, there was a sign.

Going over to check it out, the sign said “Odakota Mountain High Point 7,198 feet”.  Below it, a round marker set in concrete was stamped “Odakota High Point”.  There was also another white rock cairn.

Lupe at the now apparently official Odakota Mountain high point. Photo looks N.

The sign must have been here a while.  Some of the paint was peeling.  Odd that Lupe had never seen it before, but maybe a few years out in the weather was sufficient to get the peeling process underway?  This spot really wasn’t discernably higher than where the first cairn was, or most of Odakota’s summit ridge, but the sign and marker were exactly the sort of thing Dennis would be interested in.

SPHP started yelling.  Fortunately, Dennis hadn’t gotten too far away yet.

All official now!
Glancing back at Odakota Mountain’s summit ridge from the barbed wire fence after starting back to the RAV4. Photo looks SE.

1:35 PM, junction of Sixmile Road and a faint road – Started out looking like the right spot, but the farther up the faint road Lupe went, the less familiar it all seemed.  SPHP must not have driven far enough W to get to Windmill Draw.  This was the wrong place.  Instead of going a long way up a gentle grassy valley, the faint road merged into an unmarked USFS road near the trees.

It didn’t help when the USFS road played out shortly thereafter.  SPHP hadn’t even brought a topo map.

Well, no matter.  Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) had to be less than a couple of miles away.  Lupe would find it!  To SPHP’s recollection, all she had to do was find the E edge of the limestone plateau and follow it N.

On the faint road, setting out for Green Mountain. Photo looks N.

Going through open forest, the terrain kept rising.  Eventually there was a lot of deadfall.  The E edge of the limestone plateau didn’t materialize.  Lupe had never come this way before.  Consulting his GPS, Dennis led the way in a direction that seemed 90 degrees off kilter to SPHP.

Lupe finally reached a flat region up on a broad ridge.  There was a ton of deadfall up here.  A higher hill to the N didn’t look right.  None of the terrain looked right.  Was this the edge of the limestone plateau?  SPHP was expecting a much sharper drop-off, something more cliff-like.  No sign of the limestone pillar Lupe used to get up on over by the hill.

Frequently consulting his GPS, Dennis led the way along what appeared to be the only plausible route.  Circling along the upper W slope of a big bowl, Lupe leapt over one fallen log after another.  An unfamiliar road finally provided relief, leading to a gate near a large, flat clearing.

Still following his GPS, Dennis crossed the clearing.  Continuing a little way into the forest, he arrived at a cairn.

Stewy setting up for another group summit selfie.

2:26 PM – Lupe had never seen a cairn on Green Mountain (7,164 ft.) before, but again, it had been more than 4.5 years since she’d been here.  Furthermore, this boring spot in the forest did resemble the featureless region SPHP recalled as being all that could be found in the way of a high point where the summit was supposed to be.

As soon as Stewy had his summit selfies, it would be easy to figure out if this was the same place Lupe had been to several times before.  If it was, the limestone pillar she used to get up on had to be along the edge of the mountain somewhere near the clearing.

Summit shots taken, everyone headed back there.

Oh, yeah!  This was the right place, alright.  Going over to the edge of the clearing, slightly down the slope beyond it, there was Lupe’s pillar.

In the clearing 200 feet SE of the cairn. Top of the pillar (Center) is visible next to Dennis, who is partly behind a tree. Photo looks SE.
Lupe’s Green Mountain limestone pillar (L). Photo looks SE.

After the long, tedious bushwhack through the trackless deadfall-laden forest, and disappointing cairn in the middle of nowhere buried in trees summit, Dennis brightened immediately at the sight of the big sweeping view to the E and SE, and that taunting limestone pillar.  If a Carolina Dog could do it, Stewy could, too!  The peakbagger in him took over.

Dennis stakes his claim to Green Mountain’s limestone pillar. Black Elk Peak (L), Copper Mountain (Center), Sylvan Hill (R of Center), Medicine Mountain (R), in front of Stewy. Photo looks SE.

SPHP wasn’t getting up there, but sent a personal representative.  Since Lupe hadn’t brought her Dingo wings, SPHP had to give her a boost.

Carefully, carefully! Dennis getting off the pillar.
Lupe’s turn. Gillette Prairie (L). Photo looks E.
Oh, it’s good to be back on the Green Mountain pillar again!
Another angle. Photo looks SE.
Part of Copper Mountain (far L), Sylvan Hill (L), Medicine Mountain (Center) with help from the telephoto lens.

A short break was taken before starting back to the RAV4.  Dennis was in the habit of texting a photo to family and friends from each summit, and sent out the one of him standing on the pillar.  He often got quick, but brief responses.  In this case, the most common response was “jump”!

SPHP had to laugh.  Always nice to know you’re loved.

A final look at Green Mountain’s limestone pillar (L). Photo looks NNE.

4:26 PM –  Four down, three to go!  Unfortunately, Green Mountain had taken up more time than expected, in part due to SPHP’s error in not parking far enough W at the start of Windmill Draw.  Would have been much more of a road hike from there, instead of a bushwhack through deadfall-laden forest.

Couldn’t be helped.  Done is done.  Happily, Bear Mountain (7,166 ft.), the next objective, was a mere drive-up to a lookout tower.  Shortly after turning onto USFS Road No. 293, SPHP was astonished by the amount of logging that had gone on since Lupe had last been here.

In fact, it was still ongoing.  0.5 mile from the summit, a log truck being actively loaded completely blocked the road.  Apparently, this was going to take a while.  Pulling off the road, SPHP parked the RAV4.  Everyone leapt out.  After circling past the log truck, the road hike began.

The RAV4 parked a little way off USFS Road No. 293. Photo looks W.
Past the log truck on USFS Road No. 293. Photo looks W.
Approaching the Bear Mountain fire lookout tower. Photo looks E.
By the tower. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe had once paid a visit to the ranger at the top of the tower.  On a clear day, it was possible to see Laramie Peak (10,272 ft.) in Wyoming.  Unfortunately, the tower wasn’t open for the season yet.  A sign said it was closed to the public.

A survey benchmark and another sign showing the elevation were at the base of the tower, but there wasn’t a view from here without actually climbing the tower.  However, Lupe knew there was a nice view from a small limestone outcropping a short distance SE.

At the base of the tower. Photo looks SW.
The Bear Mountain survey benchmark.
Loop and Dennis on the limestone outcropping SE of the tower. Photo looks ENE.
Elkhorn Mountain (6,381 ft.) (far L), Black Elk Peak (L), Little Devils Tower (Center), and Sylvan Hill (R) from the viewpoint.

5:58 PM, Needles Highway No. 87, Little Devils Tower trailhead –  Upon reaching the RAV4 after Bear Mountain, Dennis faced a choice.  5 of 7 complete, but delays had chewed up enough time so that climbing both remaining peaks wasn’t going to be possible unless Dennis wanted to be out after dark, which he didn’t.

Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) or Little Devils Tower (6,920 ft.)?  SPHP spoke of the differences in what would be involved, since the nature of the routes was so different.  Either one had fabulous views.

Really wasn’t a monumental decision.  Dennis could climb whichever peak he didn’t get to today tomorrow.  In the end, Stewy chose Little Devils Tower as his last summit with Lupe.

Sweet!  A great choice!  (Both would have been.)  700 feet of elevation gain along a maintained trail that went past scenic granite formations, followed by a fun scramble to the top.

Map posted at the trailhead.

Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 was nearly level as it started up a valley.  Lupe was soon passing the first granite formations.  The views improved steadily as the trail gradually steepened.

Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4. Photo looks NE.
Big granite formations in a side valley.
Approaching some spires. Photo looks NNE.

After more than a mile, Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 topped out on a ridge near the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.).  From here, a spur trail split off to the L, heading N.  Taking this spur, Little Devils Tower’s massive granite summit quickly came into view.

On the spur trail. Little Devils Tower (R). Photo looks N.

At first, the spur trail was level, or nearly so, but as Lupe got close to the granite, it turned NE and began to climb.

The spur trail starts getting interesting. Photo looks NE.
Dennis on the way up. Photo looks SW.

The spur trail soon topped out at a high spot tucked between huge rock walls.  However, this wasn’t the end.  Blue arrows painted on the rocks marked the route from here, which now turned NW through a narrow slot in the granite.  The first part of the slot was so steep that Loopster needed a boost from SPHP to get up to where she could continue under her own power.

Climbing the slot after an initial boost. Photo looks NW.
Dennis emerging from the slot. Photo looks SE.

Above the slot, minor variations in the route were possible.  All involved scrambling up the granite.  A little exposure in spots, but not much.  The route wound along the granite to a final brief push higher.

Dennis leading the way during the scramble up the granite. Photo looks N.

6:55 PM, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.)  Suddenly, Lupe was there!  The summit region was a roomy collection of large granite outcroppings and boulders that didn’t vary an awful lot in elevation.  There was even a flat area of packed dirt with a bit of vegetation.

The views were incredible!  Little Devils Tower is right in the heart of the most rugged part of the Black Hills.  While Dennis climbed up onto the highest boulder to tag the true summit, Loopster had a look around.  Highlights included Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) a little more than a mile NNE, and the magnificent Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) only 0.25 mile SE.

Black Elk Peak (R) from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks N.
The Cathedral Spires, also known locally as the Needles. Photo looks SE.

Dennis made it up onto the true summit boulder.  Lupe needed another boost from SPHP to join him.

Stewy over at the high point. Photo looks S.
Loop and Dennis together at the true summit. Photo looks S.

6 of 7 complete, but Little Devils Tower was definitely going to be it.  The sun was already low.  Sylvan Hill wasn’t happening today.

That was alright.  Kind of took the pressure off.  Lupe, Dennis, and SPHP could all linger for a while in the beautiful evening light.

Black Elk Peak from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks NNE.
Cathedral Spires (L and Center) in the evening light. Photo looks SE.
Dennis relaxing at the true summit. Photo looks SSW.
Texting a photo before departure.

Over all too soon!  Before long, Stewy was at the end of the scramble lower, about to descend from the slot to the spur trail.

Descending the slot. Blue arrow (R).

So, Little Devils Tower was a happy ending to a fabulous day!  Dennis pronounced it easily his favorite peak in the Black Hills.  Sometime he was going to have to bring his wife, Geri, up here.

Lupe hopes to welcome her to the beautiful Black Hills on that great day.

With Stewy on Little Devils Tower, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-5-22

Note: Dennis did climb Sylvan Hill the next day before heading to Nebraska to continue his peakbagging adventures.  Among his greatest goals are (1) climb the 10 highest named peaks in all of the 48 contiguous US states, (2) climb the 10 highest named county high points in each state, (3) visit every state park with his wife, Geri, (4) float the length of rivers in all states that have a river of the same name.  At 73, he realizes these are tall orders.

Before departing, Dennis gave Lupe and SPHP an autographed copy of his book 23 Nights Working for the US Treasury Department, which tells of his experiences working for the US government’s most feared agency, the IRS.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 88 – Little Devil’s Tower & Harney Peak (5-17-14)

Every year on the weekend before Memorial Day weekend in May, South Dakota holds an open house at all state parks to kick off the summer tourist season.  Admission to the parks is free, although normal campground fees still apply.  SPHP decided Lupe should take advantage of this chance to do some peakbagging of some of the higher peaks in the Custer State Park region without having to pay an entrance fee.

Lupe’s peakbagging efforts started at the Little Devils Tower trailhead along Hwy 87 (Needles Highway) less than a mile SE of Sylvan Lake (10:44 AM, 45°F).  Lupe had four peakbagging goals – Harney Peak (7,242 ft.), Peak 6920, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), and Peak 6735.  Only Little Devils Tower was actually in Custer State Park, but the others were all relatively close by.  SPHP thought they could all be easily approached from this location.

Lupe and SPHP left the trailhead taking Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4.  The trail entered the forest, soon crossed a small creek, and then started a gentle climb NE up a valley.  As the trail gained elevation, it entered more open terrain.  The forest had been virtually clear cut along in here due to heavy damage from pine bark beetles.  Big granite rock formations were scattered along the sides of the valley.

Slowly the trail became steeper, eventually reaching the crest of a ridge about 0.75 mile from the trailhead.  From the ridge, Lupe could see the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) close by to the E.  A well marked spur trail went NNW to the summit of Little Devils Tower.  Lupe and SPHP took the spur trail, which climbed a little bit and then followed a fairly level ridgeline.

Lupe enjoys a great view of a portion of the Cathedral Spires from a high point on the ridge the spur trail follows to Little Devil's Tower. Photo looks E.
Lupe enjoys a great view of a portion of the Cathedral Spires from a high point on the ridge the spur trail follows to Little Devils Tower. Photo looks E.
Looking NE from a high point near the start of the spur trail to Little Devils Tower.
Looking NE from a high point near the start of the spur trail to Little Devils Tower.

After less than 0.25 mile, the spur trail lost a little elevation as it descended into a ravine coming up from the SW.  The bottom of the ravine rose steeply to meet the spur trail, which turned N to climb straight up a badly eroding stretch of loose rocks.  Fortunately, the climb up the loose rocks wasn’t a long one.  It ended at a little pass between big granite rock formations.

From here on, the rest of the way up to the summit of Little Devils Tower was a scramble on the granite.  At the little pass, the trail turned sharply W (L) going up a narrow cleft in the rock.  Beyond the cleft, things opened up a bit.  Blue and white arrows painted on the granite marked the trail.  The scramble wasn’t hard, and featured only minor exposure.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived up on top of Little Devils Tower, no one else was around.  A steady stream of people and dogs could be heard on the way, though.  Lupe’s solitude wasn’t going to last long.

Lupe arrives at the summit of Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.). Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) is seen in the background R of Center. One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view, was that there was no way Lupe was going to be able to climb Peak 6920, the huge near vertical granite formation seen above Lupe's head. Peak 6920 was to have been one of Lupe's peakbagging goals, but unless she charters a helicopter, it ain't gonna happen! Photo looks N.
Lupe arrives at the summit of Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.)! Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) is seen in the background R of Center. One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view, was that there was no way Lupe was going to be able to climb Peak 6920, the huge near vertical granite formation seen above Lupe’s head. Peak 6920 was to have been one of Lupe’s peakbagging goals, but unless she charters a helicopter, it ain’t gonna happen! Photo looks N.
An intrepid Carolina Dog strikes a dramatic pose atop Little Devils Tower. Harney Peak, the highest mountain of the Black Hills range, and the highest point in South Dakota, looms in the distance. Photo looks N.
An intrepid Carolina Dog strikes a dramatic pose atop Little Devils Tower. Harney Peak, the highest mountain of the Black Hills range, and the highest point in South Dakota, looms in the distance. Photo looks N.

The views were great up on Little Devils Tower!  The summit area was fairly large and divided into a couple of big sections of uneven granite that were fun to explore.  It was no place for unwatched small children, however.  The summit area was nearly surrounded by cliffs.  SPHP kept a close eye on Lupe as she sniffed around exploring.  By moving around the summit a bit, it was possible to get a tremendous open view in any direction one wanted.

One of the first things SPHP realized upon seeing the view to the N toward Harney Peak, was that Lupe was not going to be able to achieve one of her peakbagging objectives.  Peak 6920 could be seen between Little Devils Tower and Harney Peak.  It was a huge granite formation with near vertical sides in every direction.  No way Lupe and SPHP could get up there without a helicopter.

The Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks SE.
The Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Little Devils Tower. Photo looks SE.
Looking S toward Mt. Coolidge (6,023 ft.).
Looking S toward Mt. Coolidge (6,023 ft.).
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the long high ridge in the background. Photo looks WSW.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the long high ridge in the background. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe and SPHP lingered for a while up on top of Little Devils Tower.  A steady parade of people and dogs came and went.  Even small children were making the climb, with a little assistance from parents and siblings.  Although the solitude was broken, the wonderful views made it fun to stick around up on top for a while.  SPHP chatted pleasantly with some of the other hikers.  Lupe sniffed with the dogs, although she sometimes forgot her manners and growled.

A steady stream of people and dogs came and went. The summit area on Little Devils Tower was large enough so they could be mostly avoided, if one wanted to. Photo looks N.
A steady stream of people and dogs came and went. The summit area on Little Devils Tower was large enough so they could be mostly avoided, if one wanted to. Photo looks N.
Another look at the Cathedral Spires. Photo looks SE.
Another look at the Cathedral Spires. Photo looks SE.

Eventually, it was time to move on.  Lupe returned to the main Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 via the spur trail.  She followed it NE past a junction with Cathedral Spires Trail No. 4A, which she did not take.  Trail No. 4 went around the W end of the Cathedral Spires, and then turned E on the N side of them.

Since SPHP had seen from Little Devils Tower that Lupe wasn’t going to be able to climb Peak 6920, her next peakbagging goal was Harney Peak (7,242 ft.).  On the way to Harney, SPHP kept an eye out toward the SE searching for Peak 6735, to see what Lupe’s chances of climbing it might be like.

After skirting the N side of the Cathedral Spires for a little way, Trail No. 4 turned NE and then N.  Trail No. 4 ended where it reached a junction with Norbeck Trail No. 3, which came up from the SE.  Lupe continued N on Norbeck Trail No. 3.  SPHP started seeing views of Peak 6735 off to the SE.

The views weren’t very encouraging.  While Peak 6735 was only a little over a mile away, and looked like it should be climbable for Lupe, the intervening terrain looked very rugged with lots of elevation change and big rock formations.  Even more daunting, the forest looked almost totally dead, ravaged by pine bark beetles.  Getting to Peak 6735 would take a long time.  Lupe was certain to encounter huge amounts of deadfall timber along the way.

Trail No. 4 led to Trail No. 9, a spur of which goes all the way up to the top of Harney Peak.  Near the very end of the climb, a metal stairway spirals up a cleft in the granite.  Lupe did not like the metal stairway, because she could see through it down to the ground below.  SPHP had to carry the nervous Carolina Dog up the stairs.

At the top of Harney Peak, Lupe and SPHP stopped for only a few minutes at the lookout tower’s observation deck.  As the highest point in the Black Hills and the state of South Dakota, Harney Peak is a popular destination.  The lookout tower and observation deck were busy with people enjoying the fabulous 360° views, certainly among the best anywhere in the Black Hills.

To the W of Harney’s summit is a huge granite shoulder of the mountain.  This shoulder is only slightly lower, offers essentially the same terrific views in most directions, and is less crowded.  Lupe and SPHP retreated from the observation deck to the exit from the lookout tower’s basement, and headed over there.  SPHP took in the views, while Lupe engaged in the fascinating sport of chipmunk watching.

Lupe's attention is focused on chipmunks scampering around the W granite shoulder of Harney Peak. Photo looks E back toward the lookout tower and observation deck at the summit.
Lupe’s attention is focused on chipmunks scampering around the W granite shoulder of Harney Peak. Photo looks E back toward the lookout tower and observation deck at the summit.

Lupe on Harney Peak, 5-17-14

Lupe and SPHP stayed out on the W shoulder of Harney Peak for half an hour.  Lupe never tired of the chipmunks, but did divert her attention from them for a little while when SPHP brought chocolate oatmeal cookies out of the backpack.

The cookie monster Dingo inquires of SPHP as to the state of the chocolate oatmeal cookie supply.
The cookie monster Dingo inquires of SPHP as to the state of the chocolate oatmeal cookie supply.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Harney Peak (7,241 ft.). Photo looks S.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) from Harney Peak. Photo looks S.
Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) summit from the W shoulder of the mountain. Photo looks E.
Harney Peak (7,242 ft.) summit from the W shoulder of the mountain. Photo looks E.

When it was time to press on, Lupe and SPHP returned briefly to the lookout tower and observation deck.  After a few photos from the top, Lupe started down the stone steps to the spiral metal stairway, where SPHP had to carry her again to the bottom of the metal stairs.

Looking SE from the lookout tower. Peak 6735 is in view just L of the narrow rock ridge protruding from Harney.
Looking SE from the lookout tower. Peak 6735 is in view just L of the narrow rock ridge protruding from Harney.
Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) (L) and unclimbable (for Lupe and SPHP) Peak 6920 (R) from the top of Harney. Photo looks S.
Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.) (L) and unclimbable (for Lupe and SPHP) Peak 6920 (R) from the top of Harney. Photo looks SSW.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). Phot looks S.
Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.). Photo looks S.

On Trail No. 9 going down Harney, Lupe came to a big rock platform extending a little to the SE from the trail.  The platform provided a great view of Peak 6735.  Although Peak 6735 was supposed to have been one of Lupe’s peakbagging goals, a good look at all the rugged terrain and deadfall timber Lupe would have to cross to get there made SPHP decide that maybe today wasn’t the day to tackle Peak 6735.

Peak 6735 is seen directly above Lupe's head. Photo looks SE from near Trail No. 9 on the way down Harney Peak.
Peak 6735 is seen directly above Lupe’s head. Photo looks SE from near Trail No. 9 on the way down Harney Peak.
Peak 6735. Photo looks SE.
Peak 6735. Photo looks SE.

Lupe returned to the Little Devils Tower trailhead via the same route she had taken to Harney Peak –  Trails No. 9, No. 3, and then No. 4.  She was back at the G6 at 4:37 PM (59°F).  Although Lupe hadn’t climbed Peak 6920 or Peak 6735, there was still time in the day to climb another high peak in the area.  Lupe went on to climb Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) for a glorious finish to her day in the hills – but that’s another post!

Less than a month later, Lupe did climb Peak 6735 on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 92 on 6-9-14.
Less than a month later, Lupe did climb Peak 6735 on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 92 (6-9-14).

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 208 – Little Devil’s Tower & Black Elk Peak with Australian Adventurer Luke Hall (9-26-17)

Start: Hwy 87/89, 0.25 mile NW of Sylvan Lake Lodge, 9:46 AM, 46°F

Wonder of wonders!  Australian adventurer Luke Hall was actually here – in Lupe’s Black Hills of South Dakota!  He’d arrived yesterday afternoon only a few weeks from the end of a 6 month trip exploring the western United States.

During his recent travels, Luke had scrambled up many notable mountain peaks, including Mt. Whitney (14,498 ft.) in California and Mt. Elbert (14,433 ft.) in Colorado, the two highest mountains in the lower 48 states.  He’d spent a lot of time along the Pacific coast, and visited a great many national parks – Yosemite, Death Valley, Sequoia, King’s Canyon, Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce, Mesa Verde, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, Rocky Mountain – the list went on and on.

Surfing, swimming, backpacking, mountain biking, climbing – Luke had been a busy guy in 2017, but that was perfectly normal for him.  In previous years, he’d explored western Canada, 10 different countries in South America, wandered through much of Europe, and toured Morocco and Egypt.  He spent 2 years living and working in London, England, and another 2 years in Banff, Canada.  Maybe it wasn’t so surprising that Luke had finally landed in the remote Black Hills of South Dakota after all?  He did get around!

Fittingly enough, Lupe and SPHP had first met Luke Hall over a year ago on Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) in Alaska.  Now Luke was here to join Lupe on one of her Black Hills, SD expeditions.  He had already dropped by Mt. Rushmore (5,725 ft.) on his way in, so Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), the highest mountain in South Dakota, seemed like a good destination.  For Luke it would be an easy day, but maybe he wouldn’t mind dialing it down a notch after 5+ solid months of more strenuous adventures?

It was a lovely bright, clear day as Lupe, Luke and SPHP set out.  First stop along the way was Sylvan Lake.

Lupe and Luke together again in the Black Hills for the first time since meeting over a year ago on Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) in Alaska. Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota was today’s ultimate destination. Photo looks E.
Only 10 or 15 minutes after setting out, Luke and Lupe reach the NW shore of Sylvan Lake.
The small dam creating Sylvan Lake, which features a short walkway with a railing, is seen beyond Luke. Photo looks N.
Looking NE across the lake.
A few ducks were out on the calm water.

After a look at Sylvan Lake from the NW shore, Lupe, Luke & SPHP followed a trail that goes all the way around the lake back down below the dam.  Lupe led Luke around to the NE & E sides of the lake.

Looking SW from the rock formations along the N shore.
Sylvan Lake is located at the far NW corner of Custer State Park. Though small, the lake nestles among scenic granite formations.  It’s a popular destination for tourists and locals alike with a swimming beach and picnic ground.  Paddle boat rentals, a convenience store and Sylvan Lake Lodge are all nearby. Photo looks W.
Lupe showing her buddy Luke around Sylvan Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Loopster and Luke on a large granite formation that extends out into Sylvan Lake from the E shore. Photo looks SW.
Looking NNW at the N half of Sylvan Lake.

Trail No. 9 from Sylvan Lake is the most direct and popular route to Black Elk Peak, but Lupe had another trail in mind.  She led Luke past the picnic ground at the SE end of the lake, and took Trail No. 4 to the Little Devil’s Tower trailhead instead.

Taking Trail No. 4 was a longer route to Black Elk Peak, but had the advantage of giving Luke a chance to climb Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.) along the way, and get a close look at the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.), too.

Luke & Lupe along Trail No. 4 to Little Devil’s Tower.
A 0.25 mile long spur trail off Trail No. 4 leads to the summit of Little Devil’s Tower. Here Lupe is near the spur trail with a view of the Cathedral Spires. Photo looks E.
Luke & Looper on the way to Little Devil’s Tower. Cathedral Spires in the background. Photo looks E.

A 0.25 mile long spur trail leads from Trail No. 4 to the summit of Little Devil’s Tower.  The end of the route involves a quick, easy scramble up the granite.  Even small children can make it with a little supervision and an occasional boost.

Luke & Loop nearing the top of Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks N.

Luke, Lupe and SPHP quickly arrived at the summit of Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.).  There were cliffs around, especially to the N, but they were of no concern.  Although a bit rough, the uneven granite summit area is quite roomy.

The 360° views from Little Devil’s Tower are among the best in the Black Hills, with Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) to the NNW and the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) to the SE being the most eye-catching.

Luke and Loopster arrive at the uneven granite summit of Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks ESE.
Another view with some of the Cathedral Spires (also known as the Needles) in the background. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe with the Cathedral Spires in the background. This was Lupe’s 5th ascent of Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks SE.
Although the day had started out clear and bright, quite a few clouds were around by the time Lupe reached the top of Little Devil’s Tower. A chill breeze was blowing out of the S, too. Photo looks SE.
Looking NNW toward Black Elk Peak. For those with insufficient time to climb Black Elk Peak, the shorter trip on Trail No. 4 up to the top of Little Devil’s Tower can provide similarly striking views of the Black Hills.
Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) is the long ridge 2.5 miles away with the high point poking up just R of Center. Photo looks WSW.

At first, no one else was around up on Little Devil’s Tower.  It wasn’t long, though, before a couple appeared.  Bryan and Rene Jobo from Franklin, Tennessee joined Lupe, Luke and SPHP at the summit.

Rene and Bryan were on vacation in the Black Hills, and apparently having a good time relaxing and hitting some of the area’s highlights.  Bryan, Rene, Luke and SPHP were soon chatting pleasantly.  Lupe got involved posing for photos.

Australian adventurer Luke Hall poses with Bryan & Rene Jobo from Franklin, TN up on Little Devil’s Tower. Photo looks SE.
Despite a cool SW breeze, Lupe wasn’t about to get left out. Here she poses with Bryan & Rene, too.
In addition to posing with an American Dingo up on Little Devil’s Tower while in the Black Hills, Bryan & Rene were looking forward to attending the Custer State Park annual buffalo roundup in a couple more days. Lupe would have loved to go to help herd buffalo around, too. Unfortunately, SPHP never seems to think that a huge buffalo herd will appreciate a noisy Dingo, so Lupe has never gotten to go.

Bryan and Rene stayed chatting with Luke and SPHP for a while, but didn’t have time to accompany Lupe all the way to Black Elk Peak.  They had other adventures in mind to press on toward.  Soon after Bryan and Rene said good-bye; Luke, Lupe and SPHP resumed the trek to Black Elk Peak.

Luke near the Cathedral Spires on the way back to Trail No. 4 to resume the trek to Black Elk Peak. Photo looks E.

Trail No. 4 went N past some of the Cathedral Spires, and eventually linked up with a short section of Trail No. 3, which led in turn to Trail No. 9.  Near the end of a spur trail off Trail No. 9, a metal stairway hidden in a narrow opening in the granite spiraled up to a rock stairway leading to the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.).

Luke reaches the old fire lookout tower at the summit of Black Elk Peak. Photo looks N.
Until August 11, 2016 when the U.S. Board of Geographic Names voted unanimously in favor of the name Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota had been known as Harney Peak. Luke poses by a plaque at the lookout tower which has not been updated yet.  In May, 2015, the South Dakota State Board of Geographic Names had proposed renaming the mountain Hinhan Kaga (Making of Owls), but that recommendation was never enacted.  Lupe would have preferred Squirrel Mountain, or at least Chipmunk Mountain, but, oh well!
Looking ENE from the Black Elk Peak summit. The most distant big square block of granite at Center is the back side of Mt. Rushmore.

Upon arrival at South Dakota’s highest point, Luke, Lupe and SPHP spent a few minutes out on the fire lookout tower’s W facing observation deck taking in the views.  The wind had shifted to the NW by now, though, and was even colder than at Little Devil’s Tower.

View to the NNW from the fire lookout tower observation deck on Black Elk Peak.

Even Lupe was soon ready to retreat back into the lookout tower.  The tower wasn’t very large inside, but Luke enjoyed exploring the winding passage down to the basement.  An open doorway led out to a massive granite shoulder of the mountain immediately W of the tower.  Everyone enjoyed a break in the shelter of a few pines growing out of the rock.

After snacks and water, it was time for photos from various points on the granite near the lookout tower.

Luke and Lupe NW of the fire lookout tower. The tower was last staffed in 1967. Made of stone, it has held up remarkably well during the ensuing 50 years, despite the efforts of any huffing and puffing big, bad Dingoes. Photo looks SE.
Luke & Lupe up on rocks N of the tower. Photo looks NE.
Adventure buddies Lupe and Luke
Lupe on Black Elk Peak. This was her 7th visit to the mountain. Her last visit was over 2 years ago on 9-7-15. Back then the mountain was still officially Harney Peak, as it had been since 1896. Photo looks W.
Helicopters giving tours of the Mt. Rushmore area often make a pass around Black Elk Peak. Lupe loves barking at helicopters! She’s spotted one now!
The view to the SE.
Cathedral Spires (L) and Little Devil’s Tower (R) are in view beyond Lupe & Luke. Photo looks S.
Black Elk Peak was Luke’s 3rd US State high point after Mt. Whitney in California and Mt. Elbert in Colorado. Photo looks S.

All too soon, it was time to depart.  On the way back to the G6, Lupe, Luke and SPHP followed Trail No. 9 all way to Sylvan Lake.  The sun was sinking, but down out of the wind the evening was pleasant.

Starting down. Sylvan Hill is seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.
On Trail No. 9 before the junction leading to Little Devil’s Tower (R). On the return trip Luke & Lupe stuck with Trail No. 9 all the way, the most direct route back to Sylvan Lake. Photo looks SSW.
Little Devil’s Tower from Trail No. 9. Luke & Loopster had been up there only a few hours ago! Photo looks SW.
A view to the NW from Trail No. 9.
Loop & Luke at the last big viewpoint along Trail No. 9 on the way to Sylvan Lake. Photo looks NNE.
Australian adventurer extraordinaire Luke Hall presents the Black Hills of South Dakota!
Looper takes a break on a lovely bench provided by the Highpointers Foundation. This bench is along Trail No. 9 at the first good viewpoint toward Black Elk Peak (formerly Harney Peak) on the way up from Sylvan Lake.

The light was fading fast by the time Lupe reached the G6 again at 6:45 PM (upper 50’s °F).  Climbing mountains with Luke, and getting to show off her Black Hills home territory had been great fun!

The fun wasn’t over yet, though.  There would be pizza and beer with Luke at home.  (What, no beer for the faithful, peakbagging Carolina Dog!?  No fair!)  Even better, Luke was sticking around for a while.  Another adventure was in store tomorrow.

It just doesn’t get any better than that!

Adventurer Luke Hall originally hails from Sydney, Australia. Lupe & SPHP were thrilled that he took the time to come pay a visit to the beautiful Black Hills of western South Dakota!
Adventuring buddies Luke & Lupe on Black Elk Peak, 9-26-17

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                  Prior Black Hills Expedition

Badlands National Park, South Dakota with Australian Adventurer Luke Hall (9-27-17)

Gunsight Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-23-16)

Luke Hall’s travel & adventure blog

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