Northwest Peak, Purcell Mountains, Montana (8-10-21)

Day 5 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

Wee hours, Purcell Mountains – A gentle paw woke SPHP up.  Again?  Yes, again.  Lupe wanted out.  Although still weary from yesterday’s ascent of Robinson Mountain, this time SPHP joined her.  Must still be cloudy.  The night was quiet and infinitely black, as SPHP directed the faint beam of the little flashlight.  Meanwhile, the restless Carolina Dog sniffed her way both up and down USFS Road No. 7205.

7:52 AM, 54ºF – After being woken up half a dozen times during the night, small wonder that it was practically 8:00 AM when SPHP finally turned the key causing the RAV4 to spring to life.  Sad to be leaving this place, but time waits for no Dingo!  Funny how quickly one can become attached to a previously unknown spot.  Pink Paradise was only a short hike away!  Already, the Carolina Dog was leaving it behind.

Upon reaching USFS Road No. 92, SPHP turned W.  Paved, but stripeless and narrow, the road wound higher mile after mile before a similar long steady descent began to the Yaak River.  After crossing the river, Lupe had a blast barking at deer congregating in a region of homes on small acreages that SPHP mistook for the town of Yaak.

Confusion reigned.  An hour got wasted driving back and forth due to poor signage and the absence of a decent map, but the Yaak Mercantile Store finally appeared, and from there it was only 3 miles W on No. 508 to a R turn N onto USFS Road No. 338.  After that, the rest was easy.

12:22 PM, 60ºF, USFS Road No. 338 – Already afternoon by the time Lupe reached the Northwest Peak trailhead, but that was alright.  A new sign said it was only 2.3 miles to the lookout.  Despite having been awake half the night, the American Dingo was rarin’ to go!  Crossing the road, Lupe passed a few white boulders as Trail No. 169 curved up into the forest.

Miss Perky ready to set off for Northwest Peak. Photo looks NW.
Start of Trail No. 169.

Heading S, a short climb led to an old roadbed which the trail followed W for a little way.  Leaving the roadbed behind, a couple of sharp curves brought the Carolina Dog up onto a broad ridge.

The forest had burned.  Although there wasn’t as much here as at Pink Paradise on the way to Robinson Mountain yesterday, fireweed added splashes of pink to the scene.

Following the old roadbed. Photo looks W.
On the broad, burnt ridge. Photo looks W.

At first, the ridge was flat, but soon Trail No. 169 started climbing at an easy pace.  The trail headed W near the S edge of the ridge then veered N.  Almost as soon as Lupe made it over to the N side of the ridge, the trail doubled back to the SW.

Getting close to the N side of the ridge. Photo looks N.

Soon Loopster was back along the S side of the ridge again.  No. 169 now ran WNW, staying well below the ridgeline.  Northwest Peak (7,705 ft.) was already in sight ahead.

Northwest Peak (Center). Photo looks WNW.

S of HP7326, the trail passed along the lower edge of a boulder field.  Once beyond the boulders, it wasn’t much farther to the end of the burnt forest.  Happy to have the shade of live trees, Lupe soon insisted upon taking a little break.  Water and a chocolate coconut bar got shared.  SPHP enjoyed a Mott’s blueberry applesauce, too.

Below the boulder field. Photo looks NW.
In the live forest. Photo looks WNW.
Taking a shady break.

Continuing on, the rate of climb gradually increased.  No. 169 went NW, eventually leading to more talus.  By then, Loop was already almost as high as HP7326, which was now visible back to the E.

Setting off again. Photo looks WNW.
Encountering the next field of talus. Photo looks WNW.
HP7326 (Center). Photo looks E.

As the American Dingo kept climbing, the forest thinned.  Trail No. 169 wound through increasing amounts of rock.  Occasional cairns helped mark the route.

Among the rocks. Photo looks W.
On a grassy stretch. Photo looks WNW.
Getting higher! Marmot Mountain (6,921 ft.) (Center), HP7326 (R). Photo looks ENE.

Couldn’t be much farther!  Near the end, the trail steepened and began trending SW.  Few trees remained, until there were none at all.  Nothing but talus the rest of the way.

Getting steeper. Photo looks SW.
Despite all the rock, Trail No. 169 remained easy to follow. Photo looks SW.
Close to the top. Photo looks WSW.

Hardly any rock-hopping required!  Good trail the entire way.  Lupe was heading SW, when a lookout and a tall cairn came into view.

Approaching the summit. Photo looks SW.

2:31 PM, 50ºF, Northwest Peak (7,705 ft.) – Next to a huge cairn, Lupe stood squinting into the sun, not really caring for the unexpected gusty 20 mph wind sweeping over the mountain.  Hadn’t even been breezy on the way up!  Tall as the cairn was, it could easily have been much larger.

Enough rock up here to build a pyramid, SPHP!

No doubt, but forget that!  Building pyramids is a lot of work.  Someone must have had an awful lot of time on their paws just to build that cairn.

By the cairn. Photo looks NE.

Northwest Peak’s summit plateau was a sea of talus.  Not a tree, bush, or even a blade of grass, anywhere.  The gigantic cairn was more than 100 feet NNE of the lookout cabin, which sat up at the true summit near the S end of the plateau.  A flagless flagpole stood just S of the lookout, with a second, much smaller cairn nearby.

Definitely break time again, but with all the rock, there was nowhere comfy for the Carolina Dog to curl up.

Let’s check out the lookout cabin, SPHP!  Maybe it’s unlocked like the one on Robinson Mountain (7,321 ft.)?

You just want to get out of the wind, don’t you!

It’s the sensible thing to do, SPHP!

Heading over to the lookout cabin. Photo looks SSW.
By the flagpole. Photo looks ENE.

The door wasn’t locked.  Lupe went right in.  The lookout here was about the same size as the one on Robinson Mountain, but cleaner and better furnished.  Almost everything was painted green.  3 wooden beds were next to the walls.  In the middle of the room stood a tall table.  A deck of cards was on it.

Sitting together on the bed closest to the door, SPHP shook Looper’s paw, congratulating her on her successful ascent of Northwest Peak.  This feat, plus escaping the wind, was celebrated with the disappearance of the last chocolate coconut bar.

All the windows were closed, just like at Robinson Mountain.  In addition to the beds and table, there were two desks and a bench.  A clear plastic bin with a blue cover was resting on one of the desks.  Unsnapping the cover revealed a nicely folded American Flag plus instructions on how to fold it.  There was also a registry.

In the snug lookout cabin.

After entering Lupe’s name, SPHP read some of the other entries.

Anything interesting, SPHP?

Seems that most of these entries are by people hiking the PNT, Looper.  Apparently Northwest Peak is part of it.

The PNT?  What’s that?

The Pacific Northwest Trail.  1,200 miles long running E/W through Montana, Idaho, and Washington.  Guess we should have brought the sleeping bags, Loopster!  Quite a few people spend the night here.

Oh, that would have been fun!

After a bit, it was time to have a look at the views.  Venturing outside again to brave the wind, Lupe first had a look S.  The air was kind of hazy with smoke from distant forest fires, but it wasn’t too bad.  From Northwest Peak, a long ridge extended S to Davis Mountain (7,583 ft.), then W over to Canuck Peak (6,934 ft.).

Apparently, that was the way the PNT went.

Out in the wind again. Photo looks NE.
Northwest Peak’s S Ridge. Davis Mountain (L), Canuck Peak (L of Center). Photo looks SW.
Davis Mountain (L) and Canuck Peak (R) with help from the telephoto lens.

NW of the lookout cabin an outhouse sat not too far from the mountain’s W edge.  Lupe went that way next.  Burke Benchmark (7,461 ft.) was in sight beyond the outhouse, and past it, fabled, forbidden Canada, dimly seen through the smoke.  American Mountain (6,591 ft.) was 3 miles W.

Burke Benchmark (Center). Photo looks N.
American Mountain (R of Center) is the long ridge at mid-range. Photo looks W.

Returning to the lookout cabin, shelter was again sought from the wind.  After spending a little more time perusing the registry, SPHP broke out the deck of cards that was sitting on the table.

While you take it easy, Loop, think I’m going to play a little solitaire.  Soon as I win a game, we’ll head out!  How does that sound?

Fine with me, SPHP!  I like this cabin.  Really a shame you didn’t bring the sleeping bags!

I know it.  Wish I had.

Time passed.  SPHP played several games before putting the cards away.

Finally won one, SPHP?

Let’s just say it’s a good thing we stick to climbing mountains.  There’s a reason you’ve never been to Vegas, Looper.

You lost every game?

0-4, if you must know.  I’ve lost interest in it.  Odd, I know.  C’mon, let’s see if we can get a glimpse of the Hawkins Lakes before we go!

Rather reluctantly, the Carolina Dog left the nifty lookout cabin for the last time.  Heading N along the summit plateau, it was slow going on all the talus as Lupe gradually lost elevation.  The Hawkins Lakes did not come into view, and it began to look like Loop might have to go quite a bit farther before they might.

Eh.  Too windy!  Losing interest in this project, too, Loopster.  Maybe we ought to just head back to the trail?

Leaving the lookout cabin for the last time. Photo looks SW.
About as far N as Lupe got. Burke Benchmark (Center). Photo looks N.
Looking S toward the summit.

The American Dingo had no objection.  Returning to the tall cairn and the region near the lookout cabin, she gazed for the final time from the top of windy Northwest Peak upon HP7326 and the long ridge she was about to head back down.

Marmot Mountain (far L), HP7326 (L), and the ridge Trail No. 169 comes up (R). Photo looks E.

Relief from the wind came almost immediately after leaving the summit plateau.  With a good trail that wasn’t all that steep, the return was fun.  Leading the way, Lupe trotted happily along, sniffing and exploring both on and off trail at will.  Before long it was time for that last glance back at Northwest Peak.

On the way back. Northwest Peak (L). Photo looks WNW.

Oh, things that might have been!  It could have been done!  Lupe made it back to the RAV4 with hours of daylight left.  The Carolina Dog still might have spent this night listening to the wind moan in the lookout cabin, but she never did persuade SPHP to grab those sleeping bags and head back up to lonely, remote Northwest Peak (7,705 ft)(5:19 PM, 65ºF)

Northwest Peak, Purcell Mountains, Montana 8-10-21

Links:

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GPS track by Greg Slayden (8-16-16)

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Robinson Mountain, Purcell Mountains, Montana (8-9-21)

Part 2 of Day 4 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

12:31 PM, 52ºF – Alrighty, Looper!  I’m ready.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Lupe was ready, too.  In fact, she’d been waiting on SPHP for half an hour.  After crossing the bridge to adventure over Lake Koocanusa, it had taken a while to get here.  On the way, the sky had become overcast and rather gloomy, but the situation seemed to be improving now.

Leaving the nice grassy strip along USFS Road No. 7205 that served as trailhead parking for Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.), Loop started up a steep little bank past the only trailhead amenity, a few signs attached to a tree.  SPHP barely glanced at them.

At the trailhead along USFS Road No. 7205. Photo looks NE.
Setting out for Robinson Mountain! Photo looks NW.

Immediately beyond the signs, the trail leveled out some, first veering L before making a 180 back to the R.  In short order, it then curved back around to the SW (L) again, before heading NW up a valley.  This whole region was forested with dense undergrowth wherever sunlight could penetrate.  Although the trail was soft due to recent rain, only one little stretch was muddy.

Kind of a jungle, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah, glad this trail is here, or we’d already be having quite the time of it!

Are these pink flowers fireweed, SPHP?  Looks just like the fireweed we used to see up in Canada and Alaska to me!

I’ve been thinking the same thing, Looper!  Had no idea that fireweed grew this far S, though.  Happy to see it!

Well, we’re almost to Canada, right, SPHP?

Yup, only 4 miles S of the border.  With any luck, a few hours and you’ll be looking into Canada from the top of Robinson Mountain!

In the jungle. Photo looks W.

Lupe had gone only 0.2 mile when the forest began to open up enough to see a ridge ahead.  Looked only 200 to 300 feet higher.  Climbing toward it, the trail curved S, tackling the slope at an easy angle.

First glimpse of the first ridge (R). Photo looks W.

Before getting all the way to the top of the ridge, Lupe popped out of the forest onto a grassy road.  Much sunnier here.  Dead trees could be seen higher up.  Apparently, there had been a fire.  The region near the crest of the ridge was pink with fireweed.

Hang on, Looper!  Let me check the topo map.  Ahh, good!  This must be USFS Road No. 999.  We ought to be able follow it to Trail No. 159.  Should be on the L in about 0.3 mile.

0.3 mile, SPHP?  It’s right here!

Turning NW, the American Dingo had barely gone 40 feet from where she’d reached the road.  Yet, sure enough, an unmarked trail curved SW up the fireweed infested slope.

Hmm.  Well, fine!  Take it Loop, if you want to.  The topo map does show Trail No. 159 running along the crest of this ridge.  Either this is No. 159, or it ought to lead us to it.

On USFS Road No. 999. Photo looks NW.
Heading for the ridge crest. Photo looks W.

A short, easy climb got Lupe up to a flat region on top of the ridge.

Look at this, SPHP!  Pink Paradise!  Most beautiful burnt forest ever!

Near the top of the ridge.
In Pink Paradise!

Once on top, the trail headed across the broad ridge as if it was going to go right on down the other side into the Lime Creek valley, but at the last moment turned NW before losing significant elevation.  Apparently this actually was Trail No. 159.  Lupe followed it along the upper SW side of the ridge through dead forest and thriving fireweed.  A tree-broken view of HP7158 was visible ahead.

On the upper SW side of the ridge. HP7158 (Center). Photo looks NW.

Before long, No. 159 angled back up and over to the NE side of the ridge, and began a slow descent.  Lupe was soon back at USFS Road No. 999.

OK, this must be where I expected we’d reach the trail before you found it so quickly the first time, Loop.  The topo map shows it veering off to the L again somewhere right along in here.  Keep a nose out for it!

On the ridgeline, about to start down. HP7158 (L of Center). Photo looks NNW.
Back on USFS Road No. 999 again. Photo looks NNE.

Here it is, SPHP!

This time, Lupe had gone a whole 100 feet N along No. 999 before finding the trail again.  Signs were visible on a tree just past where the trail left the road.  Upon reaching the tree, a new sign said this was Trail No. 59, not No. 159 as shown on the topo map.

The trail and USFS Road No. 999 part ways again. Photo looks N.
Did someone forget a “1”?

Hmm.  Well, who knows which number is right?  In any case, it’s gotta be the same trail.  Just keep going, Loopster!

The trail climbed only a little before leveling out.  Instead of continuing NW toward HP7158 as shown on the map, No. 159 curved NE.  Still in the dead forest so nicely decorated with fireweed, Lupe entered a region of small hills, ridges, and valleys.  After losing 40 feet of elevation crossing a ravine, there were more ups and downs.  None were significant.

Finally approaching some higher ground, Lupe came to a climb that led to more up and down past some 20 foot high rock outcroppings.  Beyond the rocks was another rise that didn’t amount to much.  Still going NE, the trail leveled out, and gradually turned N.

Patches of blue sky and breezy.  SPHP kept turning around to look back.  The Carolina Dog seemed perfectly relaxed.

In the hilly region. Photo looks NW.
Starting to climb a bit. Photo looks NE.

What’s wrong with you, SPHP?  Why so skittish?

Equipped with those big soft Dingo ears, and you don’t hear it, Loop?

Hear what?

Branches or twigs cracking, like we’re being followed!

Just the wind, SPHP.  You haven’t seen anything out there, have you?

No, I haven’t.  Never anything there when I turn around, but it sure sounds like there is, and we’ve been in windy, dead forests before.

Forget it, SPHP!  Nothing to worry about!  Except, maybe your sanity.

If you say so, Loop, but this place suddenly seems kind of creepy, even in broad daylight.  Want to know another thing that’s strange?  We’ve come all this way through a dead forest, but not a single bit of deadfall across the trail.  Nothing, nada!

You aren’t complaining, are you?

No, of course not, Loop.  Just saying.  In most dead forests there would be a ton of it.

The trail finally turned NW, beginning to climb much more steeply.  The dead forest, SPHP’s delusions, and the beautiful pink fireweed were left behind.  After gaining a good 400 feet of elevation, No. 159 turned N and flattened out at a 3-way junction.  There was a sign here.

At the junction. Photo looks SE.
Aha! So it is Trail No. 159, not just No. 59! Or, at least, it used to be.

So which way, SPHP?

Stay to the L, Looper.  Think the trail going to the R heads N to a little lake E of Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.).

Beyond the junction, the trail to the L climbed a bit, leveled out again, then descended 20 feet into a ravine where Lupe came to another 3-way junction.  Right at this junction, there was a big rock that sloped at a 30 degree angle.

Which way now, SPHP?

L again, Looper, but how about a chocolate coconut bar and water break?  We can sit on that big rock.

The American Dingo was all in favor of that!

A trail marker just past the first 3-way junction. Only one of its kind along the whole route that SPHP noticed.
Past the first junction, climbing toward the next one. Photo looks NNW.
At chocolate coconut bar rock! Photo looks ENE.

Chocolate coconut bars have an extremely short half-life when a Carolina Dog has anything to say about it.  Lupe was soon back at it.  Taking the trail to the L (W), she passed a sign that was visible from the junction confirming that this was the right way to go.  Beyond the sign, Trail No. 159 sloped gradually down into a dense, gloomy forest.

Leaving the second 3-way junction. Photo looks W.

Loop wasn’t far into the gloomy forest when the trail bottomed out and began a steep climb.  Soon running water could be heard in a thicket L of the trail.  No stream could be seen from the trail, even though it proved to be merely 6 or 7 feet away when the American Dingo conducted an investigation.

Trail No. 159 climbed only a little more before leveling out at the lower end of a big bowl.  A high ridge was visible at the upper end.

On the flat stretch leading into the bowl. Photo looks W.

As Lupe ventured farther and farther into the bowl, she broke out of the live forest into another region that had burned.  The trail began to climb faster and faster, straight up the slope leading to the ridge ahead.  Lupe raced away to bark at squirrels, while SPHP trudged higher.

A couple of long, gentle switchbacks made the last part of this ascent much easier than the direct attack.  The Carolina Dog was nearly up to the ridgeline when Robinson Mountain came into sight for the first time.

Among the burnt trees of the bowl with a considerable climb yet to reach the ridgeline. Photo looks NW.
On the first switchback. Photo looks N.
Second switchback. Photo looks SW.
Almost to the ridgeline. Robinson Mountain (L of Center), HP7158 (R). Photo looks NW.

Trail No. 159 brought Lupe to the top of the ridge at the saddle between HP7069 and HP7158.  This region had burned fiercely.  After crossing the saddle, the trail remained level as Looper traversed HP7158‘s SW slope, making a beeline for Robinson Mountain, now only 0.75 mile NW.

The American Dingo was soon at the base of the final ascent.  Only 600 feet of elevation gain left to go!

Robinson Mountain (Center) from the saddle region. Photo looks NW.
Traversing HP7158‘s SW slope. Robinson Mountain (Center). Photo looks NW.
Passing a Spook Tree. Photo looks W.
Approaching the final ascent. Photo looks NW.

Upon reaching the saddle between Robinson Mountain and Peak 7158, the trail curved R and went through a little gap.  Robinson Mountain’s steep, rocky E face was now in view, along with an enormous amount of territory off to the NE.  Here the trail turned NW again, starting up Robinson Mountain’s SE ridge.

Robinson Mountain’s E face from the SE ridge. Photo looks N.
Another look from a little higher up. Photo looks NNE.

A few hundred feet below the summit, Trail No. 159 veered off to the W, leaving the SE ridge.  Braving a chilly SW breeze beneath a leaden sky, Lupe followed switchbacks up Robinson Mountain’s S slope.  Looked like it might rain at any moment, but didn’t.

A small building could be seen up on the summit.  Each switchback got Loop closer to it.  Final approach was from the W.  Lupe came to a large cairn shortly before reaching the old lookout.

The trail veers off to the L (W) here, leaving the SE ridge. Photo looks NW.
On the upper S slope. Photo looks SW.
By the big cairn. Photo looks E.

A brief inspection of the cairn revealed nothing of particular interest, so Lupe proceeded on to the old lookout.  A rock W of the building proved to be the true summit of Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.).  This rock bore a survey benchmark, which disappointingly did not have “Robinson” or the elevation stamped into it.

The sky remained quite cloudy, and the air was hazy.  Whether the haze was due to smoke, humidity, or some combination thereof, was hard to say.  Mount Henry (7,243 ft.) was in sight to the SW, but whatever lay beyond it was indistinct.

At the true summit. Mount Henry (Center). Photo looks SW.
Survey benchmark.

After a quick look at the views from the true summit, Looper retreated to the N side of the lookout seeking shelter from the cold wind.  Curling up on SPHP’s lap, she faced N.  Down a slope to the NE, an outhouse was visible among stunted trees.  Mountains stretched away toward a murky horizon.  The tallest was almost as high as Robinson Mountain.

What mountain is that, SPHP?

Probably Mount Fitzpatrick (7,328 ft.), Loop, 1.25 miles into Canada!

Canada!

Told you that you would get to see Canada today!

Wow, we’re that close!   We really could walk into Canada, couldn’t we?

Yeah, but we wouldn’t get very far.  Might as well enjoy it from here.

Speaking of enjoy, do you happen to have another chocolate coconut bar in the pack, SPHP?

For 20 minutes, Lupe and SPHP sat there gazing into Canada.  Taste of the Wild and water followed the last chocolate coconut bar into oblivion, while SPHP had a fruit cup and Mott’s blueberry applesauce.

N side of the lookout. Photo looks SSW.
Mount Fitzpatrick (L). Photo looks N.

Well, SPHP, since we’re not going to Canada, you about ready for a tour of Robinson Mountain’s summit?

Might as well, Loop!

The E end of the summit region dropped away 50 feet from the lookout.  HP7158 and HP7069, which Lupe had gone between on the way up, were both in sight to the SE.  All the terrain directly E or NE was much lower.  Pretty hazy that way, but Lake Koocanusa was discernable.

HP7158 (L) and HP7069 (R) in the foreground. Photo looks SE.
Lake Koocanusa, faintly near the horizon. Photo looks E.

Turning back W, a door was visible on the E side of the lookout.

Try it, SPHP!

E side of the lookout. Photo looks W.

Unlocked!  The Carolina Dog ventured in.

A spartan interior greeted Lupe.  Small, as had been apparent from the outside.  A broom, a metal ladder, plus a wooden one going up to the loft.  Other than that, some firewood, and a little woodstove.  Near the woodstove, a white plastic jug suspended by a rope contained a registry.

Inside the lookout.
The woodstove and suspended summit registry jug.

Apparently, Robinson Mountain is a popular destination.  The registry was full of names.

Whoa!  We aren’t even the first ones up here today, Looper!

We aren’t?

Not even close!  We’re 11th and 12th!  The Troyers, Planks, and a Miller have already come and gone.  All from Nappanee, Indiana.

Really?  They must have started a lot earlier, because we haven’t seen anyone.

Guess so, Loop.  We’ve lucked out compared to them, though!  Listen to this entry by the Troyers – “First time to Rexford, beautiful!  Great hike – wish we could have seen more.  Very foggy – windy – cold & damp!” 

Hah!  Good thing we stopped at the Ross Creek Giant Cedars this morning, SPHP.  Sometimes being the early Dingo isn’t the best!

SPHP entered Lupe’s name into the registry.  Not much else to do in here except shelter from the wind, so it was back to the summit tour.  After leaving the lookout, Loop returned to the cairn for another look W.  In addition to Mount Henry off to the SW, Caribou Mountain (6,844 ft.) stood out to the NW.

Mount Henry (L). Photo looks SW.
Caribou Mountain (R). Photo looks W.

Finishing her tour, Loopster explored the region down by the outhouse.  Highlights, if you could call them that, included a blue wheelbarrow, and a hitching post and railing.

The summit from down by the outhouse. Photo looks SW.

Then it was back up to the lookout, and a last visit to the true summit, before it was time to go.

Back at the lookout. Photo looks SW.
Final moments at the true summit. Photo looks SW.

5:00 PM, 45ºF, Robinson Mountain – 65 minutes after arriving, Loopster was back at the big cairn.  Her time here was about up, but SPHP let the American Dingo relax for a few moments.  Canada!  Glorious Canada was in sight only a couple of miles away.  Tantalizingly real, yet only a dream as far as this Dingo Vacation was going to go.

Back by the big cairn. Photo looks NE.

Gazing N, spellbound, into a dreamlike haze toward Mount Fitzpatrick.  Canada, right there!  And almost forever beyond the horizon, Alaska!

Reality.

Plenty of time to get back before dark.  Easy, fun return.  It was time.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

To Pink Paradise and beyond, SPHP!

Another adventure tomorrow.  (End 7:24 PM, 66ºF)

Mount Fitzpatrick from Robinson Mountain, Purcell Mountains, Montana 8-9-21

Links:

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GPS track by Mark Akers (8-31-21)

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Ross Creek Scenic Area Giant Cedars & Lake Koocanusa (8-9-21)

Part 1 of Day 4 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

Morning, Hwy 56, NW Montana

Hey, Loop!  We’re close to the Ross Creek Scenic Area Giant Cedars!  Just saw a sign.  Want to stop?

Weren’t we there with Lanis way back on my first ever Dingo Vacation in 2012?

That’s right, we were!  Won’t take long to have another look.  The loop trail is only about a mile, if memory serves, and almost perfectly flat.

Why not, then?  Let’s do it, SPHP!

Turning W off Hwy 56 at a signed junction, a paved road wound 4 miles through an increasingly impressive forest.  Only 7:39 AM.  Not a soul was around when Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 at an end of road parking lot.

Arriving at the Ross Creek Scenic Area Giant Cedars parking lot. One of two.

Awesome!  We’ve got the whole place to ourselves, SPHP!

Perfect!  Let’s have a look around while we can enjoy the tranquility of the ancient cedars, Looper.

Ross Creek Nature Trail No. 405 left the parking lot as a short boardwalk that immediately led to wide dirt path.  Already in a cedar forest, Lupe checked for squirrels, but didn’t see any right away.  The trees were big, and very tall, but still seemed to be about normal size.  The path went by some rocks along the lower bound of the broad Ross Creek valley.

Setting out along Ross Creek Nature Trail No. 405.

Various placards were posted along the trail, some showing their age.  SPHP glanced at a few, but mostly just followed Lupe through the forest.  The trail soon veered away from the edge of the valley, crossing a couple of boardwalk bridges over small creeks, as it led deeper into the forest.

The creeks were bone dry.

On the boardwalk bridges.

Severe drought every summer out W, SPHP!  Can’t be good for the giant cedars, can it?

I wouldn’t think so, Looper, but who knows?  Maybe their root systems go super deep, and the giant cedars are actually better adapted to drought than one might think?

They seem like rain forest trees to me, SPHP.  Don’t huge trees need huge quantities of water?  After all, they’re growing by what’s supposed to be a stream!  That’s no accident, is it?

You’re probably right, Loop.  I just don’t know.  I suppose I ought to read more of these placards.  Maybe they say something about that, but while we’ve got the giant cedars to ourselves, seems more fun to simply enjoy wandering among them.  Maybe there’s more water underground here than we realize?

Continuing on, the American Dingo came to the first of the giant cedars.  Sadly, it was dead.  Just an enormous rotting stump.

By the enormous rotting stump.

The giant cedars weren’t all dead, though.  Lupe soon started coming to live ones.  The base of their trunks looked like tentacles burrowing into the earth.

The tentacled trunk of a live giant cedar.
Gotta be a giant squirrel somewhere up there!

Reaching a grove of giants, Trail No. 405 divided.  This was the start of the loop part.  The Carolina Dog went R, going counter-clockwise around the loop.  Although most of the cedars were relatively young, there were many giants among them.  The trail went past some that had died and fallen.  Loopster scrambled up on a couple of them.

On a fallen giant.
Thank heavens we don’t face deadfall like this back at home in the Black Hills!

How old do you suppose these giant cedars are, SPHP?

Oh, not entirely sure, Loop, but I wouldn’t be at all surprised if some of them weren’t at least 500 years old.  The oldest ones might be close to 1,000!  Saplings back in the Dark Ages, if you can imagine that!

Wow!  Incredible!  Just think how wild it would have been here back then, SPHP!  The days of saber-toothed Dingoes!

Saber-toothed Dingoes?  Sounds kind of far-fetched, Loopster.

Not at all, SPHP!  We Dingoes ruled the earth, you know!  Still do!

That, I can believe.  Feel sort of ruled by one myself much of the time.

Hey, look, SPHP!  There’s a Siamese cedar!

Oh, c’mon.  A feline cedar?

It was true!

By the Siamese giant cedar.

Oh, OK!  Joined at the trunk.  I suppose they are Siamese giant cedars.  Must not have started out that way, though.

They’ve been this way for a long time, SPHP.

Nothing makes a forest feel as ancient as giant trees and ferns!  Plenty of ferns added to the giant cedars’ prehistoric ambiance.  Maybe keeping an eye out for saber-toothed Dingoes wasn’t such a bad idea?

Ferns – lots of ’em, for that primeval, prehistoric look.

At the far end of the Nature Trail No. 405 loop, Ross Creek Trail No. 142 took off continuing up the valley.  No telling how far it went, or where, or how much farther the giant cedars themselves extended.

Want to explore it, SPHP?

So many trails, and so little time, Looper!  Yeah, I would love to, but we’ve got a mountain to climb yet today, so I guess we’ll have to pass.  Can’t do everything.

Aww!  We haven’t seen even a single giant squirrel yet!

That may be for the best, Loop.  Might still be a saber-toothed squirrel or two lurking around here somewhere.  We’d be in for it then!

Near the end of the loop, Lupe came to a dry riverbed.  Ross Creek, or perhaps just a former channel?  The riverbed was full of cairns.

At the Ross Creek cairns.

Oh, I remember this!  We saw these cairns 9 years ago when we were here with Lanis, remember, SPHP?

Yeah, that’s right!  We did!  Always assumed they would get washed away in the spring, though.  Surprised to see them again.  Maybe rebuilding them is some sort of a tradition for the locals?

No one to ask about that.  The forest was still quiet.  Moving on, Lupe completed the loop, and headed back.  Less an hour had gone by when she reached the RAV4 again.  Still no one else around.

Returning to the start.
Back at the parking lot, contending with the summer morning throng.

A stream near the parking lot had the only water the Carolina Dog had seen at the giant cedars.  Naturally, Loop had to sample some for herself.

Don’t get carried away, Looper!  Leave some for the giant cedars!

The Ross Creek Giant Cedars had been a fun way to start the day, but Lupe still had big plans for this afternoon.  Returning to Hwy 56, SPHP drove N to Hwy 2, then E to Libby.  Taking Hwy 37 N out of Libby toward Rexford, another highlight worth a stop was soon reached, the Libby Dam on the Kootenai River that forms Lake Koocanusa.

Arriving at the Libby Dam.
The dam itself.
A downstream view.

After a look at the dam, Loopster checked out Lake Koocanusa.  Near the dam, the lake was less than a mile wide, but to the N it stretched away until completely lost from sight.

Lake Koocanusa.

How far does Lake Koocanusa go, SPHP?

90 miles, Looper!  All the way into Canada, like the name implies.

Canada!  Are we that close to Canada, SPHP?

Yup.

Oh, I wish we could go up into Canada and Alaska!

Me, too, Looper!  Actually, the Canadian border opens today for tourism.  If they’d opened it a little earlier in the season, we might already be way up into Canada.  Too bad they didn’t open a month earlier, or at the very least announce it before the last minute.

You mean we could go to Canada today, SPHP?  Why don’t we?

Technically, yes, but we’re not ready for it, because they gave no clue that they were going to open the border until very recently.  There are rules we haven’t complied with yet.  Besides, they change everything so often, I don’t trust them not to change the rules again without warning.  No sense in getting ourselves stranded up there with no way to get back.

This will be the second year in a row we’ve missed out then, SPHP.  I’ve probably been deposed as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood by now.  Can’t say I’d blame them, either.

Be that as it may, that’s the way the cookie crumbles these days, Loop.  We aren’t going to get to go into Canada on this Dingo Vacation, but you’ll at least get to see it.

I will?  When?

Today!  Somewhere up ahead there’s a bridge to adventure over this lake, and we’re gonna take it!

It might have been 30 miles, but before the RAV4 reached Rexford, a bridge over Lake Koocanusa did appear ahead.  SPHP parked twice at different spots, so the American Dingo could have a look.

Approaching the bridge to adventure!

Where does the bridge go, SPHP?

Over to far NW Montana, Looper.  On your next adventure we’ll be setting out so close to the Canadian border we could walk across!

Will we do that?

Uh, no.  You’d just want to go clear to the Yukon, and it’s a heck of a trek.

Well, wherever we’re going, SPHP, let’s get started!

Piling back into the RAV4 again, SPHP turned the key.  Moments later, Lupe was cruising in comfort across the bridge to adventure on her way to the next big thing.

Lake Koocanusa and the bridge to adventure, Montana 8-9-21

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Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia (8-2-17)

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Illinois Peak, Bitterroot Range, Montana/Idaho Border (8-8-21)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8-6-21, 7:51 PM, 52ºF –  Like being in the movie Groundhog Day!  4 weeks after her Dingo Vacation to Wyoming suffered it’s final coup-de-grace at this very spot, Loopster stood again up on the dolomite at High Park Lookout (9,477 ft.).  Cloudier this evening than it had been back then, but otherwise virtually no change.  Still sort of smoky up along the spine of the Bighorns.  Not too bad, but as before, much worse to the SW.

Back at High Park Lookout in the Bighorns at the start of a brand new Dingo Vacation! Photo looks N.

What do you think, SPHP?

Iffy, Loop, real iffy.  We’ll take another look in the morning.

8-7-21, 6:28 AM, 48ºF – Groundhog Day would have been better.  Didn’t Lupe take long to get back up to High Park Lookout, but the effort served more as a morning romp than an attempt to glean any new information.  A red sun already seen rising through the smoky haze from the trailhead had told the tale.

The sun was yellow now, but that made no difference.  Details visible yesterday evening were no longer detectable.  Definitely worse!

Back at High Park Lookout early on 8-7-21. Photo looks NE.

Our goose is cooked, SPHP!

Seems that way, Loop.  Guess we can cross the Bighorns off our list.  Not hanging around for this!

Where are we going then, SPHP?

Good question.  Although back home the Black Hills weren’t on fire, it had been somewhat smoky there, too, for weeks.  Big forest fires were raging all over the American West.  The hoped for monsoon to put an end to it all hadn’t materialized.  Far from it!  2021 was a summer of smoke and fire, with scarcely a drop of rain anywhere out W.

W and N, Loopster!  As far as we can, until the sky turns blue!

Canada!  Alaska!  Oh, joy!

No, not that far N, Loop.  Canada’s still closed.  Covid-19.  Supposed to open up pretty soon, but there are a lot of rules with draconian penalties, and they keep changing with little or no warning.  Would love to, but Canada is out, and that means Alaska is out, too.

What about the Alaska marine highway?

They’ve raised prices, cut service, and they’ve got plenty of new rules, too.  What happens if we get to Alaska and they shut the whole thing down?  We’re really stuck then.  Not going to chance it.

Where are we going to find blue skies then, SPHP?

I don’t know.  Might have to go all the way to the West Coast!  Anyway, c’mon.  Puppy, ho!  We’re done here!

Well, at least Lupe enjoyed some excitement in the Bighorns.  Back at the trailhead, a herd of brown cows had moved in.  The American Dingo was thrilled to see them!  The cows were far less certain about the encounter.

Cows! Beautiful cows! Hesse Mountain (10,385 ft.) (Center). Photo looks E.

Lupe spent the day looking out the window of the RAV4.  Mile after mile rolled by.  Smoke everywhere, but it wasn’t terrible.  Most places, if one looked straight up, the sky was blue.  Toward all horizons, though, the sky was a hazy white.  Air quality was poor, always bad enough to mar the views.

Maybe Lupe really was going to have to go all the way to the West Coast to find any true blue skies?  Seemed that way.  Loop hadn’t been to the West Coast since her very first Dingo Vacation back in August, 2012, when she’d been with Lanis in his Honda Element.  She’d had a blast!

As the RAV4 sped onward, peak after peak got crossed off Lupe’s list of possibilities.  After passing Anaconda, a glimmer of hope appeared.  W of Deer Lodge, Mount Powell soared against a clear, blue sky!  Might be just a pocket of good air, though.  Smoke was still visible ahead to the N.

Perhaps not!  Well before the RAV4 reached Missoula, puffy white clouds were plying a sky that was a beautiful blue in all directions.

Hey, hey, Loopster!  Look at this!  Nirvana!  Maybe we’ve arrived?

Fabulous, SPHP!  What’s the next peak on my list?

Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.)!  Right on the Montana/Idaho border.  Looks like we’ll have to leave I-90 at Superior.  That’s well past Missoula.

Oh, we’ve never climbed a mountain in Idaho before, have we, SPHP?

Nope.  You’ve been to Idaho, but we haven’t climbed any mountains there yet.  Illinois Peak will be the first, although we’ll be in Montana the whole way to it.

8-7-21, 6:30 PM, Superior – After leaving I-90, 2 L turns got the RAV4 to an underpass.  Beyond it, whatever street this was came to a “T”.  A L here onto Hwy 257, and Lupe was heading SE.  1.5 miles from the “T”, SPHP pulled over to let the American Dingo out.  A big sign with an arrow pointing R said Cedar Creek Road 320.

Superior, Montana. At the turn onto Cedar Creek Road No. 320. Photo looks SE.

No. 320!  That’s what we want, Looper!

No. 320 headed SW up the Cedar Creek valley.  The first 1.5 miles were paved, but it was a good smooth road even after that.  At about 6 miles there was a fork.  Staying to the L, another fork was reached roughly 14 miles from the start.  Here SPHP turned L onto No. 388, which crossed a bridge over Cedar Creek.

Roughly 14 miles from the start of No. 320 at the L turn onto No. 388. Photo looks SW.

No. 388 was a much narrower road, but still decent.  4 miles on it, the last part of which was quite a steep climb after passing a mine on the L, got Lupe to Freezeout Pass.

8-7-21, 7:37 PM, 67ºF – Roads left Freezeout Pass in 4 directions.  SPHP stashed the RAV4 at the first one on the R, which was an abandoned spur.  Way too late to start for Illinois Peak, but Lupe explored the spur for 0.4 mile, which was quite level as it wound W along the N side of HP6466.  For the most part, forest hid the views.  A glimpse to the NW wasn’t encouraging.

Uh-oh, SPHP!  Look at how smoky it is out there!

Yeah.  No telling what tomorrow is going to bring, Looper.  Too late now to do anything other than hope we aren’t smoked out in the morning.

Confidence wasn’t all that high that wouldn’t be the case.

8-8-21, Dawn – A strange sound as SPHP came to.  Hadn’t heard that in eons!  Could it be?  Flipping on a light, it was!  Rain!  Not heavy, but steady.  Well, back to sleep.  Lupe wasn’t going anywhere for a while.  The Blue Cookie Monster rain poncho had finally met its match back in June at Bruce Mountain in the Bighorns.  No rain gear along on this Dingo Vacation at all.  SPHP hadn’t seen any need to replace it, since rain was extinct.

8-8-21, 10:59 AM, 51ºF, Freezeout Pass – Not entirely!  Rained most of the morning.  Puddles and everything, just like the real deal!  The Carolina Dog had been bored, but she’d survived.  The more widespread this rain was, the better!  Maybe it had put a few fires out?  Wouldn’t that be nice?

Definitely cleared any smoke away here!  The rain seemed to be about over, although a lingering problem with clouds and fog remained.

Never happy, are we, Loop?

Oh, yes we are, SPHP!  Practically all the time, as long as we get our daily minor miracle!  Are you ready to go yet?

Yup!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Looper left Freezeout Pass heading SW over a mound of dirt, then on up a broad dirt path.  The rain had stopped so recently that the forest was still dripping.  Surprisingly, the path was still firm underpaw, not muddy at all.  Soon the path was covered with a carpet of short pine needles.

About to leave Freezeout Pass. Photo looks SW.

Roughly 0.25 mile and 250 feet up to HP6466 went quickly.  Got a little steep shortly before the trail leveled out up top.  Evidently this path had been some sort of a road at one time.  Sort of nice, since it was wide enough to easily avoid contact with all the wet vegetation.

No views at all.  Seemed a bit foggy, so there wouldn’t have been any even if there hadn’t been any trees.  Lupe trotted happily along the damp lane through the rich green forest like Toto on the way to the Emerald City.

On the way to HP6466. Photo looks SW.

HP6466 was quite flat on top.  No obvious high point.  Eventually the path began to slope down.  Heading SSW at first, it soon curved W.  So far, there hadn’t been any obstacles, but Lupe now began coming to some deadfall.  Not all that much of it, but what there was, was big!

Encountering some deadfall beyond HP6466. Fortunately, there wasn’t much of it! Photo looks W.

The wide path bottomed out at a saddle along the broad ridge Lupe was following.  At this point, the former road ended, with only a single track trail continuing on from here.  Staying along the S side of the ridge, the single track immediately started gaining elevation.  Loop and SPHP were both soon soaking wet due to the vegetation pressing in from both sides.

Although the trail climbed much more rapidly than wide path had lost elevation on the way down from HP6466, it wasn’t climbing rapidly enough to stay up on the ridgeline.  Big rock formations could sometimes be seen 40 to 80 feet above the steep slope the trail was traversing.

On the single track on the S side of the ridge. Photo looks W.

Despite the rock formations above and steepness of the slope, the trail really wasn’t very rocky at all.  Lupe came to only one minor knob of rock.  There was a clearing here, with views of the North Fork of Trout Creek valley to the S.  Clouds hid the mountaintops.  Unsurprisingly, looking ahead, Illinois Peak was shrouded in fog, too.

By the only little knob of rock along the trail. HP6466 (L). North Fork of Trout Creek valley (R). Photo looks ESE.
Fog (L) where Illinois Peak ought to be. Photo looks WNW.

The trail kept climbing at a good clip, and finally reached the ridgeline again.  Apparently, Lupe was already past the big knobs.  According to the topo map, the trail should have gone right over HP6760 along in here, but in reality, remained 20 feet lower, bypassing it to the S.

It’s so close, we really ought to visit HP6760, SPHP!

Alrighty, let’s do it!

Took only a few minutes backtracking to the E up on the ridgeline to get there.  Trees hid the views to the S, but Lupe did get a cloudy view of a series of forested ridges to the N.

At HP6760. Photo looks NNW.

W of HP6760, the trail gradually dipped again.  Progress was rapid.  Soon, however, the American Dingo was climbing fairly aggressively again.  Once again, the trail stayed S of the ridgeline.  Fog was always just ahead, but Loop never quite seemed to reach it.  The cloud cover was rising just as fast.

With a little luck, maybe we’ll actually get to see something from Illinois Peak, SPHP!

Wouldn’t that be nice?  Hope you’re right Looper!

Loop was at least as high as HP6760 again, when suddenly there were ripe blueberries right along the trail.  The Carolina Dog had passed a few earlier on, too, but these blueberries were bigger, sweeter, and more scrumpdiddlyicous.  Wasn’t long before progress came to a screeching halt, as SPHP became willingly ensnared in the blueberry trap.

While SPHP was thus engaged, the American Dingo raced away down the slope.  She charged back up a few minutes later, panting hard.

Saved you, SPHP!

Oh, really?  Thank you very much, Looper!  Saved me from what?

A flock of bears!  They wanted to take over this same blueberry patch.  Said it was theirs to begin with.

Dingo feathers!  No such thing as a flock of bears!  At least, there better not be!

Are you done with the blueberries yet, SPHP?  Even I can only hold a flock of bears off for so long, you know.

Umm, pretty soon, Loopster.  No real rush is there?  Need to give Illinois Peak a little longer to emerge from the clouds, anyway, don’t we?  Why don’t you try a few blueberries yourself?  You’ll love ’em!  Very healthy, too!  All organic, and super fresh.

Carolina Dogs don’t eat blueberries, SPHP.

Why not?  Some dogs do!  Remember that incredible video Dave Metz made about traversing the Brooks Range in Alaska?  What an adventure!  His dogs ate blueberries to stay alive.

Jimmy got sick and died, SPHP.  Probably blueberry poisoning!

Blueberry poisoning!  Jimmy got cancer, not blueberry poisoning!  Dave Metz said so.

You can live dangerously, if you want to, SPHP, but I’m not taking any chances.  Hurry it up with the blueberries, though.  We’ve got a mountain to climb, you know!

W of HP6760, starting up again. Photo looks WSW.
Part of the blueberry trap.
Guarding against any incoming flocks of bears while SPHP gorges. HP6760 (Center). North Fork of Trout Creek valley (R). Photo looks E.

SPHP finally got going again.  The clouds were lifting, but even with the blueberry delay, fog was still ahead.  The trail climbed steadily, steepest pace so far, but it still wasn’t all that bad.  More and more open terrain appeared as the forest thinned out.

Beyond the blueberries, still climbing toward the fog. Photo looks W.

Lupe never did reach the fog, which kept retreating up the mountain.  The rate of ascent began to diminish.  After going over a little lip, a broad grassy region rose gradually toward the NW, where a cairn was visible not too far away.

Getting close to the top! Photo looks SW.
Approaching the cairn (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

When Lupe got there, she found two concrete steps to nowhere a few feet SE of the cairn.  The obvious true summit of Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.), a 3 foot high rock outcropping, was 10 feet N of it.  Two American flags protruded from the cairn, and 2 gnomes holding watering cans huddled together at its base, facing W.

The cairn was hollow, and a white plastic bottle with an orange cap could be seen inside.  Conditions were blustery here, with gray clouds scudding along only a little overhead, driven by a chilly SW breeze.  A brief moment of triumph was endured by the Carolina Dog atop the true summit, after which SPHP retrieved the white bottle from the cairn, plus an intact Nature Valley granola bar from off the top concrete step, before retreating to the E side of the little summit ridge.

Sitting down a bit below the summit’s crest, at least somewhat protected from the wind, Lupe clearly approved this maneuver.  The granola bar, however, once opened proved to be a little stale.  Evidently not up to high-falutin’ Dingo standards.  Using her nose, Lupe started to bury her share of the prize.  SPHP wasn’t so picky.

Arriving at the summit cairn in somewhat blustery conditions. Photo looks E.
Success! At the true summit of Illinois Peak. Photo looks SSE.
The registry bottle.

Open the bottle, SPHP, so you can sign the registry for me, and we can see what else might be inside.

In addition to the registry, there were quite a few other items – a plastic snake, fake gold and silver coins, a 9-11 fraudulent event note left by someone who wasn’t overly impressed with former President Bush, and business cards left by Tom & Gail Randall, who had started this registry less than a year ago on 8-28-20 in memory of their friend Randy Oliver.

The registry was an orange spiral notebook that barely fit into the white bottle.  Lupe’s was only the 3rd entry after Tom & Gail’s.

Conditions gradually improved.  After a nice 40 minute long break spent sheltering by the little summit ridge, moments of sunshine and blue sky were becoming more frequent.  Time to get up and have a look around!  Still plenty of clouds, but they were higher now, making it possible to see the views.

On the top concrete step to nowhere. Photo looks S.
Back on the now sunny true summit. Photo looks NW.
Exploring the grassy summit region, which was a good 2 acres in size. Photo looks SE.
Looking SSE with a little help from the telephoto lens.

Gold Crown Peak (7,374 ft.) was visible only a mile to the W.  If Lupe had gotten an earlier start, she would have visited it, too.  With a name like that, it had to be a peak worthy of an American Dingo’s presence!

Gold Crown Peak (Center). Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Returning to the true summit and venturing N, a second cairn was found only 25 feet away.  Some of the best views were in this direction.

At the true summit again. Photo looks NE.
True summit of Illinois Peak. Still breezy. Photo looks ENE.
Looking NNW from the gnome cairn and true summit.
Same view, but from the N cairn. Photo looks NNW.

80 feet ESE of the gnome cairn was another rocky ridge not far from where Lupe had come up the mountain.  This E outcropping was bigger than the one at the true summit.  SPHP was surprised when Lupe found the Illinois Peak survey benchmark there.

Loop at the E rock outcropping. Quartz Benchmark (7,770 ft.) (R). Photo looks ESE.
Illinois Peak survey benchmark.
Another angle. Photo looks ENE.
Looking SSW across much of the summit region.

A brief return to the true summit, and it was time to go.  An hour and 20 minutes after arriving, Lupe headed back down the trail.  Dark clouds still swept past now and then, but didn’t dampen the mood for long.

Final moments atop Illinois Peak. Photo looks WNW.
Heading down amid the pom-pom plants. HP6760 (Center) in the foreground beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.
Pom-Pom plants, or more scientifically, Pomus-Pomus planti.

The coast was clear!  No flying flocks of bears!  SPHP managed to tank up on blueberries again, despite Lupe’s disinterest.  The American Dingo revisited HP6760, and got to see considerably more this time.  The best part of the return, though, was a final satisfying look back at Illinois Peak (7,690 ft.), no longer shrouded in fog and mist.

Blueberry trap, round 2. Delicious!
Back at HP6760. Photo looks NW.
A fond farewell to Illinois Peak (Center). Photo looks W.

8-8-21, 4:14 PM, 55ºF, Freezeout Pass

That was fun, SPHP!  Turned out OK, didn’t it?  Just think, my first ascent of a peak in Idaho!  Plus credit for a Montana ascent, as well!

Yeah!  Illinois Peak, didn’t disappoint, although it was looking iffy there early on.  Glad the cloud cover lifted enough to get to see the views.

Loopster was back from Illinois Peak early enough to enjoy an evening drive.  Took a while to get back down to I-90 again at Superior.  From there, it wasn’t far to St. Regis where SPHP left I-90 again, taking Hwy 135 down to Hwy 200 and Paradise.  This was all new territory, and very beautiful.  NW of Thompson Falls, Lupe took a sunset stroll featuring a look at the Noxon Reservoir on the Clark Fork river.

Noxon Reservoir from close to the Hwy 200 bridge over the Clark Fork river. Photo looks NW.

Dusk was deepening by the time SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Pillick Ridge trailhead a mile off Hwy 56.  Illinois Peak had gotten Lupe’s Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast off to a great start!  Dinner, then time to recharge for the next adventure tomorrow.

Illinois Peak, Bitterroot Range, Idaho/Montana border 8-8-21

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To the Froze to Death Plateau & Tempest Mountain! – Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-4-20)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

The wee hours, Pass 10140, Beartooth Mountains – Rain?  Ugh!  Not good.  Sounded like light rain on the tiny house.  Surprising, since the night sky had been almost completely clear when Loopster finally got back from Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.) yesterday evening, which couldn’t have been too many hours ago.

The exhausted American Dingo was still dead to the world, but SPHP was dimly awake.  Too tired to even roll over, SPHP laid motionless for a long time, listening.  Light rain, or just the wind?  Hard to tell, but the tiny house was flapping intermittently in a gentle breeze.  Always seemed to rain a little harder when the breeze picked up a bit, too.

At last summoning the energy to unzip the door, SPHP took a look.  Hah!  Overhead, a pale full moon still beamed down on the empty plain.  The grass felt dry.  Not raining at all.  Good!  Just the wind.  Back to sleep.

Sometime later, Lupe woke SPHP wanting out.  Alright!  Unzipping the door again, SPHP let her go.  A single woof.  Something big bounding away.  Silence.  SPHP waited, but the Carolina Dog didn’t return.

The sky was brightening in the E when SPHP took another look.  A few feet away, Lupe was curled up on the grass calmly watching the world come to life.

‘Bout time, sleepyhead!

You hungry, Loop?  We better eat something before taking off.

8:07 AM, Pass 10140, Beartooth Mountains –  The American Dingo might have recovered from yesterday’s splendid adventures, but SPHP still felt lethargic.  Breakfast had been a leisurely affair.  Everything finally ready to go now, though.  Better get with it!  Daylight’s burning!

Which way, SPHP?  Where are we headed?

See that big hill, Loop?  That’s Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.), our first objective.

Froze to Death Mountain (L of Center) from base camp at Pass 10140. Photo looks SW.

Oh, snap!  Looks like another Saddleback Mountain!  We can do that.  C’mon, SPHP!  Step lively!

With Froze to Death Mountain already in sight, Lupe set off up the slope behind the tiny house.  The mountain promptly disappeared from view, but reappeared as soon as she got up to where the slope leveled out.  A vast plain was ahead.  No obstacles.  With a much lighter pack today, SPHP actually was able to step along at a rather lively pace.

Crossing the plain, only 10 minutes from the tiny house. Froze to Death Mountain (Center). Photo looks SW.

After crossing the empty plain, the trek became a steady climb.  Out on such open ground there really wasn’t any question on what route to take.  Loopster simply headed pretty much straight for the mountain.  For quite a long way, the terrain remained a featureless slope, but that gradually changed.  Rivers of rock began to appear separated by lanes of vegetation.  An hour from the tiny house, Lupe reached a big cairn.

So far, so good! Froze to Death Mountain (R). Photo looks SSW.

5 minutes past the cairn, a massive boulder sat off all by itself in a flat region.  A grassier stretch was just ahead.  Although still much higher, Froze to Death Mountain no longer looked all that far away.

This is sort of like a one rock cairn! Froze to Death Mountain (L), HP11395 (R). Photo looks WSW.

Staying W of Froze to Death Mountain’s NE ridge, Lupe took advantage of the vegetation to avoid much rockier terrain as long as possible.  She was soon beyond the flat area, climbing steadily again on the steepest slope yet.  Toward the SSE, a small region of bright green grass betrayed the existence of seeping springs and waterholes.  After getting a drink, Lupe noticed a depression to the W containing a big snowbank, but she didn’t bother with going over to check it out.

As the climb continued to steepen, SPHP insisted upon stopping now and then to suck in more air.  These pauses provided opportunities to enjoy the ever-present views.  Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) and Mount Hague (12,323 ft.) were particularly impressive.

An oasis! Tasty! I was beginning to think there wasn’t any water at all up here.
Looking back. Pass 10140 (L of Center), Saddleback Mountain (R). Photo looks NE.
Mount Hague (L). Mount Wood and the big snowbank (Center). Photo looks NNW.

The steeper, rockier terrain couldn’t be avoided forever, but it wasn’t too terrible.  Lupe often found relatively easy lanes higher.  She was only 0.25 mile from the summit when she finally got up onto Froze to Death Mountain’s NE ridge.  Reaching it at a fairly level spot, Loop now faced the toughest part of the entire climb.  The summit was just ahead, only a few hundred feet higher.

Almost there! Final ascent dead ahead. Photo looks SW.

Easier than it appeared!  Scattered patches of bare ground allowed SPHP to maintain some semblance of upward momentum.  The climb ended with Lupe leading the way during a slow scramble on big talus, but the top wasn’t much farther by then.

Approaching the summit. Photo looks SW.

11:00 AM, Froze to Death Mountain –  A Carolina Dog stood surveying the situation from the single, massive boulder that was the obvious true summit of Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.).  What an awesome place!  Not trivial by any means, but it hadn’t been hard to get here.

At the true summit of Froze to Death Mountain. Saddleback Mountain (between Lupe’s ears). Photo looks NE.

To the NE, both Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.), which Looper had visited yesterday, and Pass 10140, where she’d started out from this morning, were in sight looking much lower.  Off to the NW was a grand view of Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) and Mount Hague (12,323 ft.).

Mount Wood (L), Photo looks N.

The true summit boulder Lupe stood on was, if not a comfortable perch, at least plenty large enough to inspire confidence.  Not a scary spot.  It sat along the N lip of a fairly roomy summit region, which slanted lower toward the SE.

Although spacious, Froze to Death Mountain was not an easy summit to move around on.  Large talus covered practically the entire area.  The only place where Lupe might be able to rest on anything other than solid rock was a low spot 40 feet S of the true summit where a flat patch of dirt was sheltered by walls of talus 10 to 20 feet higher to the N and W.  Potentially a good spot to pitch a tiny house for an overnight stay!

Off to the SSW was a fabulous view of Mount Peal (12,409 ft.) and a pale milky-green tarn near it.  Nothing could be seen of Turgulse Lake hidden in the deep canyon between here and there.  However, part of Froze to Death Lake was visible to the SE.  Leaving the summit boulder, Lupe scrambled over the talus to get closer to that edge for a better look.

Sparkling in the sunlight, Froze to Death Lake was a deep sea green color.  Miles beyond it, SPHP was fairly certain that a big flat-topped peak in the distance was Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.).

Mount Peal (R). Photo looks S.
Froze to Death Lake (Center). Castle Mountain (Center) on the horizon.
Froze to Death Lake. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

A mile to the WSW, Lupe’s next objective was in sight for the first time.  From here, the Froze to Death Plateau (11,792 ft.) region looked like a couple of hills at about the same elevation.  The Carolina Dog’s hoped for ultimate destination was also visible 1.5 miles farther S.  A long, barren slope leading up to Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) inspired confidence.  Loopster could do that!  Just a matter of getting over there.

The upper regions of a far more problematic, no, make that impossible, peak poked up from beyond that same slope –  Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), Montana’s state high point.  A serious technical climb, Granite Peak wasn’t even a possibility for Lupe, but a terrific closeup view of it from Tempest Mountain was certainly something to look forward to.

Tempest Mountain (L of Center), Granite Peak (Center), and Froze to Death Plateau (R). Photo looks SW.
Tempest Mountain (L) and Granite Peak (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Thinking a rest break or a bite to eat might be in order, SPHP led Lupe down to the flat spot.  Certainly protected from the wind here, although lacking the views available higher up.  With the wind only 10 mph out of the W, shelter was of minimal value at the moment.

Looper sniffed around a minute or two.

So, what are we doing down here, SPHP?  Not much to see.

Thought you might be hungry, or want to cool your jets for a while, Loop.  Been a bit of a march.

That’s kind of you, SPHP, but I’m fine.

You don’t need a break?

Still a long way to Tempest Mountain, SPHP.  Did you see how rocky it all looks?  Maybe we ought to keep going?  If you’re up to it, that is.  We can rest later.

Oh, OK.  I’m good.  Onward, then!  Puppy, ho!

It was true.  SPHP had hoped that the relatively level trek between here and Froze to Death Plateau (11,792 ft.) would be a super simple grassy stroll, but an awful lot of rock and not a whole lot of vegetation was in sight.  Although Loopster’s remaining objectives weren’t that far away, and the terrain didn’t appear to present any serious obstacles, might be very slow going.  Dilly-dallying here was perhaps inadvisable.

Scrambling back up close to the summit, the Carolina Dog found a route through the boulders where it was possible to start down Froze to Death Mountain’s W slope.

Would love to stay longer, but maybe we better keep going! Froze to Death Plateau (Center). Granite Peak (L). Photo looks WSW.

The W slope was a jumble of large talus, steeper and more treacherous than the route Lupe had taken up from the NE.  Loop managed it all just fine, but found herself constantly waiting.  Only a little more than 100 feet had to be lost, but SPHP’s cautious descent seemed to take forever.

Might as well enjoy the view as we wait for slowpoke! Mount Hague (L) and Mount Wood (Center). Photo looks NNW.

Getting down to where not much of a slope remained provided little relief.  Talus everywhere!  Farther W was another minor ridge of the stuff.  Eventually boulder hopping around the N side, the view ahead was still discouraging.  Rocks, rocks, and more rocks!

Hoo-boy! This rock garden is in full bloom! Froze to Death Plateau (Center), Granite Peak (L). Photo looks WSW.

Nothing to be done about it.  Lupe bounded about as she pleased while SPHP spent a lot of time staring at the ground, concentrating on each step ahead.  Every now and then a little patch of dirt or grass permitted a micro-burst forward.

Keep coming, SPHP! Looks easier over by those hills. Tempest Mountain (L), Granite Peak (L of Center), Froze to Death Plateau (R). Photo looks SW.

Staying well S of the highest ground, Lupe eventually got to the end of the talus field.  Only some scree now, and a bit of vegetation.  Suddenly, SPHP could make some tracks.  Loop quickly reached a snowbank on the E side of the closest hill she’d been heading for.  While she drank from tiny meltwater streams flowing from the snowbank, SPHP filled up the water bottles.  A ton of sediment in this water, but oh, well!

This first hill at the E end of the Froze to Death Plateau summit region was all light-colored stone.  No point in climbing it, since a darker hill just beyond it was clearly at least somewhat higher.  Trying to take the most direct route, SPHP angled up along the S side of this first hill, which only served to put Loop back into talus.  Would have been better to stay lower longer before starting up to the saddle between the two hills.

Once out of the talus, Lupe soon made it up onto the E rim of the dark hill.  The top of this hill was a good-sized region as flat as a field of stones could be.  Impossible to pick out a true summit rock from all the others very nearly the same elevation, so Lupe perched on a likely candidate.  For the second time today, SPHP shook the American Dingo’s paw and congratulated her on a successful ascent.

Looking back from the E edge of the dark hill. Saddleback Mountain (L), the lighter colored hill (Center), Froze to Death Mountain (R). Photo looks NE.
At the Dingo-designated true summit of Froze to Death Plateau. Photo looks WNW.

Remaining at the true summit of Froze to Death Plateau (11,792 ft.) for only a moment or two, Lupe continued on.  Nothing but rock here, and essentially these same views would be available all along the plodding march ahead.  Heading WSW, it took only a couple of minutes to get to where Loop could start down a gradual slope leading to the next part of the plateau.  The rock turned from dark to light-colored again in the middle of the coming dip.

Leaving the true summit region of the Froze to Death Plateau on the way to the next high point (R). Tempest Mountain (L). Granite Peak (Center). Photo looks SW.
View to the WNW.
Zoomed in on Tempest Mountain (L) and Granite Peak (R). Photo looks SW.
From Center to R: Castle Mountain, Castle Rock Spire, Rainbow Peak, Castle Rock Mountain, and Salo Mountain. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.
Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.). Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Checking the topo map, this next section of the Froze to Death Plateau ought to be the last of three high points in the region.  This was actually where the true summit was supposed to be, but it looked slightly lower than the dark hill where Lupe had just been.  Crossing the minor saddle leading to it, Looper only had to regain a small amount of elevation to arrive at a similar rocky plain, except that this one was much larger.

Looking back from the region shown as the true summit of the Froze to Death Plateau on the topo map (HP11792). The middle dark hill (L of Center, beyond Lupe), and light-colored hill (just to the L of it). Photo looks ENE.

The middle dark hill Lupe had just left still looked like the true summit to SPHP, but who knew?  Maybe it was an illusion?  Certainly no obvious absolute high point on this part of the plateau, so Lupe simply continued across it, passing from the light-colored rocks of the E end to another band of dark-colored rocks toward the W.

At the W end of this final high point of the Froze to Death Plateau region, Lupe came to a long slope leading down to the saddle between here and Tempest Mountain.  Naturally, nothing but rock every inch of the way.

Looking down on the saddle W of the Froze to Death Plateau region leading to Tempest Mountain (L). Granite Peak (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

After a gradual elevation loss of close to 150 feet, Lupe reached the low point of this last saddle near Sundial Rock.  She was still 1.5 miles N of Tempest Mountain, but the terrain immediately ahead didn’t look nearly as rocky as it had been on the great majority of the long trek to this point from Froze to Death Mountain.

Tempest Mountain (L of Center) from Sundial Rock. Photo looks SSW.

Just SW of Sundial Rock, Loop came to a couple of semi-circular rock walls.  Only 2 to 3 feet high, the semi-circles were open toward the NE.  The ground within was hard-packed mostly sandy soil, apparently what remained after the rocks had been moved to construct the walls.

What do you suppose these forts are for, SPHP?

Not sure, Loop, but probably meant as windbreaks or camping spots for people coming to climb Granite Peak (12,799 ft.).

At the first of two forts SW of Sundial Rock. Photo looks SW.

No one was around to ask, so Lupe kept going.  Once across the saddle, the terrain began to slope upward again, gradually at first, but slowly getting steeper.  Loop continued SW for a while, before starting to angle more to the S.  The landscape eventually became mighty rocky again.

After going quite some distance, a 100 foot high talus ridge was directly ahead.  Upon reaching the top of it, the slope only continued higher, but at an easier pace.  A few cairns appeared along in here, and occasionally stretches of a crude use trail were found between them.

The entire region leading to Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.), now only 0.5 mile away, was now in sight.  SPHP glanced up from the endless rock hopping to see a brown and white speck streaking S.  Lupe!  Without warning, she’d taken off like a shot.

Oh!  That explains it.  Mountain goats!  4 of them.  Seeing an American Dingo racing toward them, the mountain goats stood staring in wonder at first, before scattering as Looper rapidly closed the gap.

Mountain goats, SPHP!  Did you see them?

Yes, I did, but not soon enough to stop you from taking off like that.  Sort of a no-no, you know?  How did you know they were even there?

Oh, you can sniff them a mile away!

No, actually I can’t, although apparently you can.  You must have run at least 0.25 mile up there.  Could barely see you or the goats.  Wish I had that kind of speed, energy, and agility.  We’d climb 20 mountains a day!  Before lunch!

You do tend to take your sweet time, SPHP!

As SPHP trudged along, Lupe covered the same ground for the 3rd time in the past few minutes.  Up close to where the mountain goats had been were more semi-circular rock forts.  These forts were taller than the ones near Sundial Rock.  A bunch of gear was stashed at one of them.

Someone must be out climbing Granite Peak (L) right this very minute! Photo looks WSW.

These forts weren’t far from the W edge of the enormous ridge leading to Tempest Mountain.  Continuing only a short distance SW toward what appeared to be a pass along that edge, Lupe discovered a huge cairn with a couple of big gleaming white chunks of quartz on top.

This cairn marked the start of the route real mountain climbers take down to the col leading to Granite Peak.  The E face of Granite Peak looked so fearsome, and the route so narrow and dizzying, that SPHP was thrilled Lupe had no intention of making an attempt.  Terrifying was the word that came to mind while regarding Granite Peak.

For all you real mountain climbers out there, this is where the fun starts! Photo looks SW.

Still 300 or 400 feet to go!  A long rocky slope was all that was left to get to the top of Tempest Mountain.  Moderately steep, but not tricky at all.  No worse than the terrain the Carolina Dog had already spent most of the day on.  A huge white boulder could be seen way up at the top.

Following various use trails, or wandering willy-nilly, Lupe headed up.

Here we go! Starting up Tempest Mountain. Photo looks S.
Making progress! Photo looks E.

About halfway up, SPHP noticed two people by the light-colored boulder at the top.  They hung around there a few minutes, then started down.  Turned out to be a man and a woman young enough to be his daughter.  The young woman said nothing as she passed by, but the man stopped briefly to chat.

He said they were going to camp at the rock windbreaks tonight before climbing Granite Peak tomorrow.  He claimed the mountain goats were just about tame.  They hang around waiting for someone to piss on a rock, then lick it for the salt.  After relaying that interesting tidbit, he waved cheerily and continued his descent.

Guess we can be glad we’re not mountain goats, Looper!  How disgusting!  Poor mountain goats!

For sure, SPHP!  Say, you don’t happen to have any Fritos in the pack do you?

Naw, they’re all back at the trailhead in the G6.

Well, shoot!  There goes that idea.  What kind of a porter are you anyway?  You’re supposed to be prepared for all sorts of eventualities.  The Fritos don’t do us any good in the G6!

I can only lug so much on your behalf, lazy Dingo.  What idea are you talking about?

If you’d only thought to bring some Fritos, I could take them to those mountain goats.  I bet that if they saw me bringing them a big bag of Fritos they wouldn’t run off!  We’d be best friends!

That’s quite the plot!  I suspect you’re right, though.  It would probably work.  Maybe next time?  I’ll have to think about it.  Mountain goats are awesome, but I’m not entirely certain I want a herd of panhandling goats following us all over the mountain demanding more Fritos.

5:06 PM, Tempest Mountain –  Approaching the light-colored boulder that had been visible all the way up, it looked so big that SPHP wondered if Loop could get up onto it, even if SPHP gave her a boost?  Before making an attempt, the American Dingo paused for a look at that forbidding N face of Granite Peak.

Halfway up the mountain, sheets of ice clung to tremendous cliffs far below a wickedly jagged ridgeline.  Below the ice, long piles of talus and scree dropped precipitously hundreds of feet farther into the maw of an enormous canyon.  Peering cautiously over the edge, the skinny ridge mountaineers had to traverse to get over to Granite Peak was visible.

Looks like a death wish to me!  What do you think, Loop?

Quite a few people climb Granite Peak, don’t they, SPHP?  Just have to know what you’re doing.

Oh, but we do!  That’s why we’re over here.  C’mon lets see what we can do about getting you up onto that boulder.  It’s sitting awfully close to the edge, so it ought to be plenty scary enough for Dingo work.

Approaching the light-colored boulder. Photo looks SE.
Granite Peak from Tempest Mountain. Photo looks WSW.
Gazing down on the col leading to Granite Peak. Photo looks WSW.

Circling around the E side of the light-colored boulder, Lupe’s prospects for getting up on top were looking rather bleak.  Perched up on other rocks, the boulder’s sides were vertical, and no stones that might have provided helpful assists rested against it.

Hmm. This last step is a doozy! Photo looks SSW.

The problem was instantly solved, however, when Loop got around to the S side of the boulder.  No need to get up on this monstrous rock at all!  Not the true summit!  40 or 50 feet away, along the brink of a gaping chasm to the W, was a much smaller pointy rock that appeared to be at least a foot or two higher.

The pointy rock wasn’t big enough to stand on, but Loopster had no problem getting to it, and touching the top with her paw.  A small cairn nearby confirmed the notion that this actually was the true summit of Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.).  After congratulating Lupe on her 3rd and final successful ascent of the day, SPHP took several commemorative photos as the proud American Dingo posed near the pointy rock.

On Tempest Mountain. The true summit is the pointy rock just behind Loop. The massive light-colored boulder which had been problematic is at far R. Photo looks NW.
Granite Peak (L) from the top of Tempest Mountain. Photo looks W.
Mount Hague (Center) and Mount Wood (R) with the light-colored boulder between them. Photo looks NNW.

Compared to Granite Peak, Tempest Mountain was as tame as a kitten, but the views were still stupendous!  A mile SE, Mount Peal (12,409 ft.) overlooked an enormous canyon containing a rock glacier.  Far beyond Mount Peal, Bowback Mountain (12,351 ft.), Whitetail Peak (12,551 ft.), and the Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) group were all in sight.

Mount Peal (L) in the foreground. Bowback Mountain (far L), Whitetail Peak (pointy, straight up from Lupe’s back), and Castle Mountain (straight up from her rump) all on the horizon. Photo looks SE.
Another look. Mount Peal (L of Center) in the foreground.

Venturing S of the true summit, Lupe had a fabulous view of the cliffy N face of Cairn Mountain (12,200 ft.).  Peering down Tempest Mountain’s S face, parts of both Granite Lake and Lowary Lake were visible.

Cairn Mountain (foreground). Photo looks SSW.
Granite Lake (Center) and Lowary Lake (R). Photo looks S.

Back to the N and NW were the now familiar, but more distant views of Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.), Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), and Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) from a new perspective.

Tempest summit (Center). Twin Peaks (far L) and Mount Hague (L). Photo looks N.
Twin Peaks (L of Center), Mount Hague (R of Center), and Mount Wood (R). Photo looks NNW.

And, of course, to the WSW was that frightening, awe-inspiring view of Montana’s true summit, Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), now backlit by the sinking sun.

Granite Peak (R). Mount Villard (12,345 ft.) (Center). Photo looks SW.

5:58 PM, Tempest Mountain – A precious, glorious hour had flown by, the last few minutes now slipping away.  Loopster stood near the pointy true summit of Tempest Mountain for the last time.  No way to get back to the tiny house until hours after dark now, but no regrets.  Totally worth it.  What a splendid day in the Beartooths it had been!

Final moments at the true summit. Photo looks S.

Simply fabulous!  But this is about it, Loop.

Onward, Puppy ho! time, SPHP?

Yep.  You know it.

Working her way N past the light-colored boulder, a grand view of the long, rock-strewn march Lupe had made to get here was on display.  The whole trek from Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.) to the several high points of the Froze to Death Plateau (11,792 ft.) was in sight.  Even Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.), where Loop had been about this time yesterday evening, was in view.

Froze to Death Plateau (L of Center), Froze to Death Mountain (R), and Saddleback Mountain (far R). Photo looks NE.
Leaving Tempest Mountain. Photo looks SE.

A need for speed!  Better get as far as possible before the light is gone.  During the descent, staying close to the W edge of Tempest Mountain, Lupe was soon rewarded with a view of Avalanche Lake.

Avalanche Lake (Center) with Twin Peaks beyond it. Mount Hague (R) and Mount Wood (far R). Photo looks NW.

A few people were at the semi-circular rock shelters down by the route to Granite Peak when Lupe went by again.  So were the same 4 tame mountain goats, no doubt anxiously waiting for someone, anyone, to take a piss.  Lupe was beside herself whining with disappointment when SPHP wouldn’t let her race over to say hello, and wishing SPHP had had enough brains to bring the Fritos.

Bring a bag of Fritos or potato chips, and they’ll be your friends forever!

Ugh!  It was a long march.  SPHP’s paws were getting sore.  A wonder that Lupe’s weren’t, too, with all this rock, but it never seems to bother her.  The last of the evening alpenglow was about gone by the time the Carolina Dog made it back to the pass near Sundial Rock W of the Froze to Death Plateau.

No way!  Not going to try to do all that again in the dark!  SPHP left Lupe’s earlier route, leading the Carolina Dog N over a wide, shallow pass, picking up a use trail on the way.  On the far side of the pass was a barren slope.  Rocky, but nowhere near as troublesome as the Froze to Death Plateau was.  Down, down Lupe went as the remaining light faded, occasional large cairns helping to keep her on track.

This morning, a broad band of vegetation had been visible down here N of the upper Froze to Death Plateau region while Lupe had been on the way to Froze to Death Mountain.  Yet even though harboring suspicions that there was likely easier terrain and quite a good use trail, SPHP was afraid to lose too much elevation.  Without having explored the region earlier in the day, if there wasn’t a decent trail, it would be too easy to get lost in the dark close to frightful cliffs to the N.

Even so, Lupe lost a lot of elevation before turning E.

Before the light was completely gone, the American Dingo made it past a large snowfield.  Where she roamed after that is impossible to say.  E!  The rugged terrain gradually forced her lower and lower, but the black as midnight mountainside was vast, never-ending.

There were places where progress was good, patches of thick, tufty grass.  Lupe crossed ravines containing little streams, and scrambled through deep gullies full of talus, while SPHP crept cautiously along wielding the little flashlight, trying to figure out which rock could be safely reached next.  Mostly, though, there was just rock, rock stretching into an invisible infinity.

Traversing the endless slope, Lupe got around some kind of a ridge, then another one.  Finally the dark outline of the long slope leading up to Froze to Death Mountain could be seen against the starlight.  Still a long march to get there.  How far was impossible to tell.  Looper was getting tired, or maybe her paws did hurt now?  Pawing frequently at SPHP, she whined, begging for mercy.  Stop!  Stop!

Sometimes SPHP did stop.  5 or 10 minutes spent sitting together, bathed in moonlight, listening to the cool breeze whisper tales of loneliness and danger among forlorn eternal mountain heights.  SPHP stroked Lupe’s fur, reassuring her.  Somewhere there was an end.  In a field of grass, a tiny house was waiting.

For a long time, a glowing red gumdrop was visible hundreds of feet lower.  Another tiny house!  A cheery outpost amid the gloom.  Gradually it was left behind, far to the NW.

Finally, a climb up onto the slope that went to Froze to Death Mountain.  Lupe turned N, heading down.  Rivers of rock, few routes between them, steep drops.  It hadn’t been this way this morning, had it?  Was Loop too far E or W?  SPHP couldn’t tell.  Back and forth, wandering blindly, searching for the way.

After an eternity, the rocks ended.  How high had Lupe been all this time?  How could it have been this far?  Didn’t matter now.  Joyfully across a barren level plain, then down the final grassy slope.

The American Dingo spotted the tiny house first.  Respite!  Relief!  Too tired to eat, Lupe curled up on her soft sleeping bag.  SPHP pulled part of it over her.  Warmth and comfort!  At peace, Lupe sighed, closed her sweet eyes, and dreamed, still wandering the rocky heights of the Froze to Death Plateau.  (9-5-20, 12:46 AM)

Froze to Death Plateau (L) and Froze to Death Mountain (R) as seen on the way back from Tempest Mountain, Beartooth Mountains, Montana, 9-4-20

Links:

Next Adventure                            Prior Adventure

Granite Peak trip report by Greg Slayden (8-26-91)

Granite Peak trip report by Dave Covill (August 3 to 6, 2002)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Utah & Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Mystic Lake & Saddleback Mountain, Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-3-20)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

9-2-20, early afternoon, Gillette, Wyoming

Well, phooey!  This has been a complete waste of time.  C’mon, Loop, let’s get out of here!

Disappointing, but on to bigger and better things, SPHP!

Absolutely, sweet puppy!

SPHP turned onto I-90, and the Carolina Dog was soon racing W again in the air-conditioned comfort of the G6, putting behind her more than 2 hours of futile searching for the owners of Antelope Butte (5,073 ft.).  Antelope Butte wasn’t much as far as mountains go, just a little hill.  Lupe could have climbed it in nothing flat.

Antelope Butte did have one claim to fame.  It was one of only 19 high points in the mountainous state of Wyoming with more than 25 miles of isolation, meaning no other higher ground within a 25 mile radius.

SPHP had actually found 2 of the 4 owners of Antelope Butte, who were all members of the same family.  Result?  Permission unequivocally denied!

Privately owned Antelope Butte several miles S of Gillette, WY as seen from Hwy 59. Photo looks W.

Nothing was going to break the happy mood for long.  On to bigger and better things!  Lupe’s 4th Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2020 was just getting underway.  The G6 hummed NW for hours.  It wasn’t until the American Dingo reached Billings, MT that there was any sign of trouble.

Uh-oh!  Smoke!  Not again!  Wyoming had been all sunny and blue.  W of Billings, the smoke thickened.  Lupe had come such a long way already that she might as well keep going and see what tomorrow would bring.  At Columbus, SPHP left I-90, heading S on Hwy 78.  S of Absarokee, a R turn on Hwy 419 to Fishtail, then following signs the rest of the way.  By dusk, Loopster was at the trailhead.

9-3-20, 7:34 AM, West Rosebud trailhead –  As usual first night out on a Dingo Vacation, Lupe had hardly slept a wink.  Excited by the prospect of hitting the trail, she’d spent most of the night gazing out the window, watching for any sign of movement.  A full moon had risen, illuminating the enormous canyon carved by West Rosebud creek.

Happily, the sky was looking much better this morning.  Only a hint of smoke.  Lucky!  The great moment had arrived.  Lupe was on her way.

At the West Rosebud trailhead.
Signage by the start of West Rosebud trail No. 19.
Mileages.

A short climb and West Rosebud trail No. 19 leveled out.  This trail went up the West Rosebud creek canyon, the first major destination being Mystic Lake 3 miles from the trailhead.  Lupe was up early enough to have the trail to herself at the moment.  She trotted along looking for squirrels, but hearing only the hum of a hydro-electric power plant down in the valley.

Off to a reasonably early start on West Rosebud trail No. 19.
On a nice level stretch.

15 minutes from the trailhead, Lupe came to a curved bridge that went over a big white water pipe and a railroad track for a tram.  Both started 1,000 feet higher at a surge tank way up on a steep mountainside, and swooped straight down to the hydro-electric plant in the valley.  A couple of plaques told the story of this engineering marvel.

Looking up the water pipeline and tram track toward the surge tank. Photo looks W.
Loopster on the curved bridge.
The hydro-electric powerhouse waiting below. Photo looks E.
“Tapping the lake” plaque.
“Generating electricity” plaque.

After crossing the bridge, Lupe went on.  The West Rosebud trail is very popular, so it was well-worn and a cinch to follow.  15 minutes beyond the curved bridge, the trail reached West Rosebud creek.  Scrambling down a short steep bank, Lupe checked it out.  The creek had good flow.  Crystal clear water tumbled among huge, smoothed boulders in a series of small waterfalls, and gathered in deep pools.

Later in the day, this would be a fabulous spot for a picnic, or even a swim, but it was still very early, so the Carolina Dog kept going.

Heading up the West Rosebud Creek canyon after crossing the curved bridge.
By West Rosebud creek.
So beautiful!

The trail followed the gorgeous creek for only a little way before leading to another bridge.  This bridge crossed West Rosebud creek.  The trail then headed back into the forest.  5 minutes, and Lupe came to a sign for the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Crossing the bridge over West Rosebud creek.
Entering the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness.

Beyond the sign, the West Rosebud trail was still flat for a little while, but it soon started to climb.  Lupe had already gained some elevation, but now the trail became a much more relentless upward trek.  Still easy to only moderately steep.  Looper continued to make good progress, but every now and then, SPHP paused for breath.

The trail was going SW toward a huge headwall at the upper end of the canyon.  As Lupe got closer, the trail began switchbacking higher.  The route became much rockier as the trail climbed above the forest.  Views improved, and progress could now be measured relative to the big white water pipeline stretching almost horizontally along the opposite canyon wall.

Here on the SE side of the canyon, tremendous rock spires towered way up along the upper edge.

Glancing back at the big white water pipeline (L) on the opposite side of the canyon. Photo looks NNE.
A clearer view.
Impressive towers! Photo looks SSW.
Spires along the upper SE side of the West Rosebud creek canyon.
The headwall (Center) the trail was working toward. Photo looks SW.

The trail and the big white water pipe were both heading for Mystic Lake, but from opposite sides of the canyon.  It wasn’t until Lupe was clearly somewhat higher than the water pipe that she started getting close to the headwall Mystic Lake was hidden beyond.

After passing next to several vertical rock walls, the West Rosebud trail finally curved W directly toward the headwall.  However, it didn’t go far in this direction before bending back to the SW where it entered a small valley.  Climbing gradually through this relatively narrow gap, the trail eventually leveled out.

At the far end of the valley, where the gap was narrowest, a strong, cool breeze blew this way as Lupe approached two large boulders the trail went between.  As the American Dingo reached the boulders, she got her first look at Mystic Lake.

Making progress, clearly somewhat above the water pipeline now. Photo looks NNE.
In the gap. Photo looks SW.
First glimpse of Mystic Lake from between the boulders. Photo looks SW.

Set in a huge valley surrounded by forests and massive mountains, the deep blue waters of Mystic Lake made a stunning impression!  Facing into the stiff, cool breeze coming off the lake, Lupe looked 120 feet down on a curved dam at the E end.  Whitecaps could be seen in the middle of Mystic Lake, its far W end beyond vision.  Magnificent!

From here, West Rosebud trail No. 19 curved sharply to the R as it began snaking almost all the way down to lake level.  The trail reached Mystic Lake slightly above the rocky S shore, where it then headed W toward a pebbly beach.

Mystic Lake from the gap. Photo looks SW.
Starting down the switchbacks leading to the lake. Photo looks N.
By the S shore, very close to the E end. Photo looks W.
A look at the dam. Photo looks N.

After getting past the initial rocky part of the shoreline, Lupe left the trail to venture out onto the pebbly beach.  The American Dingo was the first one here this morning and had the whole place to herself, which was pretty cool.  From here she could look back and see the trail winding up to the gap she had come through on top of a wall of rock at the E end of the lake.

On the pebbly beach. The gap Lupe had come through to get here is visible as the notch (slightly to the L of Lupe) on top of the rock wall beyond her. Photo looks NE.

Taking a stroll W along the shore, Lupe explored more of Mystic Lake.  She didn’t go too far, just to where the shoreline curved toward the S where more of the main body of the lake was in view.  At a weathered log, SPHP sat down for a bit to have some fried chicken while watching the waves roll in, but the Carolina Dog wasn’t hungry yet.  Instead, she dashed off into the forest when a squirrel chattered nearby.

Exploring the beach. Photo looks SW.
About as far as Loop went along the shoreline.
Mystic Lake. Photo looks W.
Looking NE back toward the dam from SPHP’s fried chicken feast log.

A pleasant half hour was spent along the shore of Mystic Lake, but that was about all SPHP thought Loop could spare.  She’d gained a little over 1,000 feet of elevation getting here, but still had another 2,500 feet to go just to get to base camp.  Carrying a heavy pack, SPHP was concerned about how difficult that might prove to be.

Somewhat reluctant to desert such a wonderful place so soon, Lupe left fabulous Mystic Lake heading S through the forest looking for the trail, which was some distance from the shore.  She quickly ran across it, though, and turning R (SW), continued on her journey.

Back on West Rosebud trail No. 19.

After 200 or 300 yards, a small clearing appeared ahead.  At the same time, Loop reached a junction with a side trail on the L (S).  A sign said “Phantom Creek Trail No. 17”. Without going all the way to the clearing, Lupe turned S, following No. 17 as it wound deeper into the forest.

At the start of Phantom Creek Trail No. 17.

Phantom Creek trail No. 17 wasn’t as wide as the West Rosebud trail had been, but at least it started out in good shape.  A huge climb was ahead to get to where Lupe was going, and No. 17 soon began steadily gaining elevation.  Switchbacks appeared.  Great news!  They really helped make life easier on the increasingly steep slope Loop was climbing.

On an early switchback.

15 minutes after setting out on Phantom Creek trail No. 17, Lupe reached the only significant water she would come to.  A small rushing stream crossed the trail twice in rapid succession, and was never seen again.  After that, any water encountered was a mere trickle, scarcely enough for Loop to get a drink.

Cooling paws off in the little stream.

Lupe gained several hundred feet of elevation before getting her first view of Mystic Lake from Trail No. 17 at a small break in the forest.  She could see all the way to the W end of the lake from here.

First glimpse of Mystic Lake from Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks WNW.

5 minutes later, a couple of partridges, or ptarmigans (?), were on the trail.  They hung around just long enough for a photo before flying off.

Partridges or ptarmigans?

The switchbacks went on and on.  Most were moderately long.  Although the trail was never steep, the heavy pack forced SPHP to keep pausing to gasp for breath.  Views kept improving.  Absolutely spectacular country!

Wowee! This is quite the trail, isn’t it? Photo looks S.

Lupe gained many hundreds of feet of elevation on the same enormous slope.  After what seemed like a long trek, the switchbacks finally started getting shorter.  Higher up the slope, it kept looking like Loop was about to come to a top, but she never did.  Instead, after going around a bend, the trail suddenly straightened and headed E.

By now the forest had thinned considerably.  Ahead was an encouraging sign.  A bare hilltop!  Apparently there actually was a limit to how much higher Looper was going to have to go.

On the straightaway. Getting up there, but still a way to go. Photo looks E.

Trail No. 17 crossed a steep drainage, then turned N.  More switchbacks!  Lupe kept going, zig-zagging higher.  The trail finally went clear around to the N side of the mountain before starting to turn E again.  By now, the views of Mystic Lake more than 2,000 feet lower were amazing!  Part of Island Lake was visible beyond the W end.  N of both lakes stood Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), and beyond it Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.).

If you don’t like this, you just don’t like mountains! Mystic Lake with Island Lake beyond. Twin Peaks straight past the end of Mystic Lake. Mount Hague (R). Photo looks WNW.

As the trail continued curving E, Lupe came to sort of a little pass.  This area was all stunted pine forest, except for a small hill just N of the trail.  The W end of this hill was all gravelly.  Not much of a climb to get up there.  Since this hill might be a last chance to look back at Mystic Lake, Loop ventured up.

Only the W half of Mystic Lake was in sight, but Loopster could see even more of Island Lake than she had been able to before.  The amazing, and somewhat horrifying view, though, was of the massive ridge to the S, the same ridge Lupe was trying to get up onto.  Oh, my gosh!  The Carolina Dog still had a long way to go!

Mystic Lake and Island Lake from the W end of the gravelly hill. Twin Peaks (R). Photo looks W.
Still a bit of a trek to get up to that ridge isn’t it? Photo looks SW.

E of the gravelly hill, the forest gave out.  Turned out that the gravelly hill had not actually been the last spot to get a good look at Mystic Lake.  In fact, the primo viewpoint was an even higher grassy area way up here near the edge of a cliff.  Except for a little piece at the far E end near the dam, Lupe could see almost the entire lake.  Across the enormous West Rosebud Creek canyon, the top of Mount Wood (12,660 ft.) was now in sight, too!

Even better! Don’t ya, think? Mystic Lake with Island Lake beyond. Twin Peaks (R of Center), Mount Hague (R). Photo looks WNW.
Top of Mount Wood behind me! Twin Peaks (far L), Mount Hague (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The trail kept climbing, winding its way E.  Turned out Lupe didn’t have to gain as much elevation as it had seemed back at the gravelly hill.  She was heading for a significantly lower part of that same massive ridge, Pass 10140, an enormous saddle that Phantom Creek trail No. 17 went over on its way to another giant canyon where Phantom Creek was.

Still heading higher! Photo looks E.

Shortly after rounding a corner, an unmarked trail junction appeared.  A side trail headed SW up a ravine here, no doubt a shortcut to Montana’s state high point, unseen Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), which was still miles away and a technical climb.

The shortcut to Granite Peak is on the R around the next bend. Photo looks SE.
Going to Granite Peak? SPHP thinks you should go R here. I’m going L! Photo looks SW.

Skipping the shortcut, Lupe continued E on Phantom Creek trail No. 17.  The rate of climb was diminishing.  Only 0.5 mile now to Pass 10140!

9-3-20, 2:03 PM, Pass 10140 – Suddenly Lupe was there, crossing a vast, sparsely vegetated plain.  Two cowboys riding horses were coming this way.  Lupe let them go by before heading over to a cairn halfway across the pass.  Not the absolute high point, but close enough.

At Pass 10140. Photo looks ENE.
Twin Peaks (L), Mount Hague (Center), and Mount Wood (R) from Pass 10140. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Ho, ho!  Loopster, we’re here!  Can’t believe it!  Been dreading that climb with this dang heavy pack, yet here we are.  And so early, too!

We’re here?  You mean this is it?  We aren’t staying here, are we, SPHP?

Yes, we are!  This pass is gonna be base camp.  Isn’t it fabulous?

Glad you’re excited, SPHP, but I’m detecting a serious squirrel deficiency.

Squirrels, schmirrels!  Sniff around some.  You might find something even better than squirrels.

Better than squirrels!  Like what?

Oh, I don’t know.  Something more exotic, like marmots or mountain goats or grizzly bears.  Anyway, I’m pooped.  C’mon, let’s go find a spot to pitch your tiny house.

Several hundred feet SW of the trail was a gentle, grassy slope.  Not as rocky as the rest of Pass 10140.  Looper was soon resting comfortably next to her tiny house with a view of Mount Wood and Mount Hague in the distance.

Base camp at Pass 10140. Mount Hague (Center). Mount Wood (R). Photo looks NW.

9-3-20, 4:13 PM, Pass 10140 – Lunch, and 2 hours of rest and relaxation had done wonders.  The American Dingo was starting to get restless.  Even SPHP felt revived.  Nothing planned, but hours of daylight left.

So what now, SPHP?  Do you think you’re up to it?  Looks easy.

Heh.  Yeah, it does.  Tempting, but we probably shouldn’t, Looper.  Might regret it tomorrow.  Another big day coming.

Oh, c’mon!  It’s not that far away!  Why don’t we give it a go?  Can always turn back, if it isn’t panning out.  We’re here with time on our paws.  If not now, when?  I’ll give you a hint.  Never!  That’s when.

True enough.  Well, let me check the topo map.

To the ENE, on the far side of Phantom Creek trail No. 17, was another big chunk of the massive ridge that Pass 10140 was part of.  A big conical high point was visible over there, and the terrain leading to it did look pretty easy from here.

The topo map revealed that the cone was likely the site of the “Mystic” survey benchmark, and the top of Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.).  Loop might also be able to tag Prairieview Mountain (10,575 ft.) along the way.  Not that much additional elevation gain on the day, and two 10,000 footers for the price of one!  Still, round trip, it would be a good 5 miles, at least.  Hmm.

Alrighty, then!  Guess we did come here to climb mountains, didn’t we?  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

That’s the spirit, SPHP!

Prairieview Mountain (small knobs R of Center) and Saddleback Mountain (R) from Pass 10140 base camp. Photo looks ENE.

Heading NE, Lupe crossed Phantom Creek trail No. 17, and started up a long, barren slope.  Cake!  A few rocks, nothing major.  Fun trek.  Rapid progress.  Why had SPHP even hesitated?  This was pure brilliance!

Approaching knobby Prairieview Mountain. Saddleback Mountain summit (Center). Photo looks ENE.

The terrain got rockier.  Progress slowed as Loopster scrambled past a minor talus ridge, avoiding the worst of it.  Another plain beyond the talus.  Scattered bushes and rocks.  Still not bad.  Prairieview Mountain, an elevated line of rock outcroppings bisecting the enormous ridge, was now just ahead.

Glancing back. Froze to Death Mountain (L). Pass 10140 (R). Photo looks SW.

Most of Prairieview Mountain was a gently rounded ridgeline running N/S dotted with scattered bushes and boulders.  However, a number of widely separated rock formations 30 to 50 feet high were strung out along the length of this ridge.  These rock formations were similar to each other in that they all consisted of big mounds of large talus.

Coming up near the middle of the ridge, or maybe a bit toward the S, it was clear that the summit had to be farther N.  Skipping the closest rock formation, Lupe headed for the next one.

Near the top of Prairieview Mountain looking for the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Approaching the next rock formation to the N, the ground became a sea of massive boulders half sunk into the mountain.  Between the boulders grew a profusion of bushes that served to hide how deep the holes they occupied were.  Sometimes only a few inches, other times several feet.  Where possible, boulder hopping was by far the easiest mode of travel.

Climbing from the S, Loopster got near the top of this rock formation, but the stones at the very top were so massive, there was no way the Carolina Dog could get up there.  Retreating, she circled around to the W hoping to find a better route.  None!  The W and N sides were worse.

Lupe almost made it to the top of this rock formation, but couldn’t scale the highest boulder. Photo looks N.
Not happening, SPHP! Same rock formation, opposite side. Photo looks S.

Hah!  Didn’t matter.  An even higher rock formation was now in sight a little farther N.  Close to the far N end of the whole mountain, the true summit had to be over there.

Next rock formation to the N (Center). Photo looks N.

Another boulder hop over to this next jumble of talus, and Lupe once again started up the S side.  Too steep!  Swinging around to the W, the American Dingo managed to keep gaining elevation, but still couldn’t make it to the top.  Every time it seemed like she was getting close, even higher rocks kept appearing a little farther N.

Looking up.

How much farther, SPHP?  Can you tell?

Not really.  15 feet, 20, 30?  Not at all sure the true summit is even in sight yet, Loop.  Can’t be that much higher.  At the moment we’re kind of stuck here, though.  Practically straight up.  We’re going to have to keep working our way around somehow.

Well, how bad do we really want to do this?  Isn’t Saddleback Mountain more impressive?  Maybe it’s easier than this one?

You might be right!  Scrambling around on all this talus is just chewing up a ton of time.  We’re gonna break our fool necks, too, if we’re not careful.  You got pretty close to the top of Prairieview.  Wanna call it, and go on to Saddleback?

Sure!  Why waste daylight here, when the glittering prize is over there?

Sort of a shame.  Lupe had gotten so close to the top of Prairieview!  With enough patience and persistence, she probably could of done it.  Oh, well!  Life in the mountains.  Not always one roaring success after another.  A careful descent, and it was on to Saddleback Mountain, still nearly a mile E.

Abandoning Prairieview Mountain. Photo looks WNW.
If at first you don’t succeed, on to Saddleback Mountain! (Center) Photo looks E.

Look back again, SPHP!

Huh?  What for, Looper?

At Prairieview Mountain.

Oh, for pity sake!

Good thing we gave up on it!

Eh.  You could have done it, Loopster.  Just would have taken us forever and a day the way we were going about it.

Looking back at Prairieview Mountain, it was now perfectly clear that the true summit was a big boulder perched way over at the N end of a long talus ridge, the same pile of talus Lupe had started up from the S.  She may have reached a point not an awful lot lower than where that highest rock sat before giving up, but she had still been an icky long horizontal scramble from where the true summit actually was.

Oh, the joke’s on us! We were climbing the wrong (L) end! True summit of Prairieview Mountain (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Well, whatever!  Focus shifted back to the problem at paw.  The closer Lupe was getting to Saddleback Mountain, the rockier the upper slopes were looking.  Prairieview Mountain on steroids?  Hopefully not.  A long, gentle N slope appeared to be the easiest approach, but it was far away.  Time was ticking.  SPHP headed for the S side of the mountain instead.

Saddleback Mountain’s long N slope (L) looked like a lovely gentle ramp to the top. SPHP led Lupe to the R. Photo looks NE.

Worked great!  At first.  Looper gained quite a bit of elevation on grassy S slopes, but she still had hundreds of feet to go when the talus started getting thick.  Lanes of vegetation soon got choked off.  The Carolina Dog was gradually forced to circle around to the W side of the mountain as she worked her way higher.

In the end, there was no escaping the talus.  The last 200 feet were a slow, steep, treacherous, miserable climb, but bit by bit, Loopster was getting there.

Miserable! What are you talking about, SPHP? We’re doing great! C’mon, pick up the pace!

The sun was already getting low when Lupe reached a flatter region above the final steep scramble.  Egads!  The whole mountaintop was nothing but talus!  Pretty big stuff.  It all sloped gradually higher to the S, where 250 feet away a modest cairn was visible at the summit.

Success in sight, Lupe boulder-hopped her way to the top of Saddleback Mountain (10,876 ft.).

Nearly there! Cairn (Center). Photo looks SSE.

9-3-20, 6:51 PM, Saddleback Mountain – Clouds moved in messing with the light moments before the American Dingo reached the true summit.  Too bad, but that’s the way the Milkbone crumbles.  The good news was that Lupe now stood next to the cairn on the highest of 3 light pink and gray boulders splotched with black lichens that together constitute the tippy top of Saddleback Mountain.

Tie game!  Score: Mountains 1 – Dingoes 1.

On Saddleback Mountain. Photo looks WSW.

The summit was right next to the S edge of the mountain.  In fact, one of the three highest boulders hung halfway out in space.  360 degree views, of course!  Massive ridges, deep canyons, and high peaks in all directions except to the NE where Lupe could see clear out to the plains.  The air was smoky over there.  Lucky that wasn’t the case up here!

The smoky plains. Photo looks ENE.

To the NW was another perspective on some of the peaks Lupe had seen on the way up Phantom Creek trail No. 17.  Mount Wood (12,660 ft.), Mount Hague (12,323 ft.), Twin Peaks (11,793 ft.) and others farther W.

Twin Peaks (L of Center), Mount Hague (R of Center), and Mount Wood (R). Photo looks WNW.

Beyond giant ridges, a line of higher flat-topped peaks was visible far to the SSE.  Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.), which Lupe had failed to even get to with her friend Jobe Wymore last month, was somewhere over there.  Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.), too, which she did manage to climb.

SPHP could pick out a peak that looked like Castle Mountain.  Sky Pilot would have been hidden beyond it.

The most interesting view of all, though, was to the SW.  Phantom Creek and glimpses of Phantom Lake and Froze to Death Lake were visible in a deep canyon.  Beyond them stood Mount Peal (12,409 ft.).  Farther W, Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) and Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), the state high point, soared behind Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.).

Mount Peal (Center) and Granite Peak (R). Photo looks SW.
Tempest Mountain (L). Granite Peak (L of Center) with Froze to Death Mountain in front of it. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe sat perched on Saddleback Mountain’s summit boulder.  Not quite half an hour since she’d arrived.  Saddleback had been unplanned bonus peak, but a great one.  Sad to have to depart so soon.  Better get down, though, before the light was gone.

We’re leaving already? I was just getting comfortable!

Looper had barely left the summit when the evening sun broke through the clouds.  Suddenly the light was exquisite, the world transformed in an explosion of glowing color and sharp contrasts.  A fleeting sublime moment.  Lupe paused.  What a spectacular end to a spectacular day!

Leaving Saddleback Mountain. Photo looks SE.

Oh, but it wasn’t over yet, not by a long shot!  As always, SPHP was super slow on the long, steep talus descent.  Lupe wound up much farther NW than where she’d come up, the sun already long gone by the time SPHP escaped Saddleback Mountain’s tenacious grip.

Dusk deepened, and the first stars glittered, as Loop hurried SW across the plain leading to Prairieview Mountain, dodging scattered boulders and black bush-filled holes between them much of the way.

Reaching Prairieview’s ridgeline a little S of center, the flashlight had to come out.  Lupe sniffed and roamed as if it were broad daylight, while SPHP stumbled almost blindly forward through infinite rocks and bushes toward the last minor talus outcroppings farther W.

Beyond them, an hour after dark, dramatic improvement.  Easy terrain!  A gentle downslope!  To the E, a rising ghostly white moon frightened the weakest stars from the night sky.  An incredible, but weary moonlit trek!  Finally across Phantom Creek trail No. 17 and to the tiny house.  A famished American Dingo inhaled dinner, and was gone.

Off to Dingo dreamland!  Yeah, it did seem like the place to be.

Evening glory. Saddleback Mountain, Beartooth Mountains, Montana 9-3-20

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To the Froze to Death Plateau & Tempest Mountain! – Beartooth Mountains, Montana (9-4-20)

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