Cook Inlet, the Homer Spit & Lupe’s Return to the Rock of the West at Anchor Point, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska (8-31-17 & 9-1-17)

Day 32 & Part 1 of Day 33 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-31-17, 10:00 AM at Bottenintnin Lake on the Kenai Peninsula, Alaska – Of course, it had rained overnight.  It rained every day here in Alaska, usually every few hours.  It wasn’t raining at 6:00 AM, though, or when SPHP woke up again now, either, but the sky was completely overcast both times.  The day really wasn’t looking too promising.  Meanwhile, Lupe was off barking in the forest.  She must have found a squirrel as soon as she’d escaped the G6.  Better go check on her.

Loopster was close by.  Yes, she had found a squirrel, almost instantly!  If SPHP didn’t think the day was shaping up the way it ought to, she had a different opinion.  She was having a good time at Bottenintnin Lake.  A forest full of moss, ferns, squirrels and exotic aromas was a Dingo playground.  The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was a busy girl, and in no hurry to leave.

Lupe at Bottenintnin Lake where she had spent the night after visiting Skilak Lookout yesterday afternoon.
Well, hello there sleepyhead! Up so soon? Not even noon yet. Don’t get any big ideas now. It’s a cloudy day, so we may as well stay here at Bottenintnin Lake where there is plenty of fun stuff for a Dingo to do!
The squirrel watching is excellent!
And there’s lots of important sniffing to do, too, if you will excuse me a moment.
And of course, there’s this lovely lake. Bottenintnin Lake is shallow and full of water lilies. Seems like a great place for waterfowl, SPHP, but I haven’t seen any yet. Maybe if we hang around, though, we’ll see some?

Loopster was right.  No need to rush off given the weather.  If she wanted to bark at squirrels and play in the forest for a while, why not?

11:23 AM – The trip journal was caught up.  Loop was back in the G6, her good times squirrel watching cut short by a steady rain.  The day was looking gloomier and gloomier.  What to do?  Two choices.  The first was to cut and run.  The current weather on the Kenai Peninsula wasn’t conducive to outdoor adventures.  No sign it was going to clear up, either.  Maybe it was best to go back to Palmer, and then just keep going until Lupe found sunshine somewhere far from the rainy S Alaska coast?

The other option was to carry on as originally planned.  Head W all the way to Homer, and hope that the weather would improve by tomorrow.  If it did, Loopster could take a water taxi across Kachemak Bay like she did last year when she got to spend a fabulous day on Grace Ridge in Kachemak Bay State Park.  This year, the Grewingk Glacier might be a fun adventure.

12:20 PM at the trailhead for the Skyline Trail to the Mystery Hills along Sterling Highway No. 1

What’s happening, SPHP?

We’re turning around, Loop.

Yes, I kind of gathered that.  Did you change your mind?  Are we going to Homer after all?

Yeah, I can’t stand the thought that we’re leaving after getting so close.  Might be a complete waste of time, but let’s give it one more day.  You never know, the weather might clear up and be beautiful like it did last year.  We have an awful lot of great stuff we can do on the Kenai Peninsula, if we can catch a break.  If it doesn’t work out, at least we tried.

3:20 PM, 52°F at the Cook Inlet beach at Ninilchik – So far, still not too promising.  Lupe had just had a bit of luck, though.  When she arrived at Ninilchik, the rain had quit for a little while.  She’d just had a good romp along Cook Inlet before the rain started in again.

A year ago, Lupe had spent a wonderful evening here in Ninilchik.  She’d had gorgeous views of both Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.) and Redoubt Volcano (10,197 ft.) far across Cook Inlet as the sun went down behind the mountains.  Nothing like that today.  Dull, gray clouds hid everything except the ocean and the nearby beach, but watching seagulls and listening to the roar of the waves as they collapsed exhausting their energy on the beach had been fun.

When Lupe arrived at Ninilchik, the rain had abated for a little while. As a result, she got to enjoy a romp along Cook Inlet.
Not standing here long, SPHP. The tide is coming in. Let me know if you see one of those sneaker waves coming up behind me!
Even though we can’t see the volcanoes across Cook Inlet today, it’s always fun to take a stroll along the beach, isn’t it, SPHP?
Looper along Cook Inlet near Ninilchik on the Kenai Peninsula.

By 5:00 PM, Lupe was in Homer near the end of Sterling Highway No. 1.  Sadly, the weather showed no signs of improving.  Only the base of the mountains across Kachemak Bay could be seen beneath low clouds.  A heavy mist was falling as SPHP drove out to the Homer Spit.

Despite the gloomy atmosphere, Homer Spit was alive with activity.  Vehicles and people in rain gear were everywhere.  SPHP dropped by a restaurant, and got an order of fish and chips to go.  Lupe didn’t care for them, preferring salami and English muffins.  Oatmeal cookies for dessert.  Together Loop and SPHP sat in the G6 having dinner, while watching rain and fog over Kachemak Bay.

6:32 PM, 52°F, rain and fog at the Homer Spit – After dinner, Lupe went with SPHP to Mako’s Water Taxi to inquire about prospects for a trip across Kachemak Bay to see the Grewingk Glacier tomorrow.  Unfortunately, it didn’t take a rocket scientist to realize what a long shot this was likely to be.

Despite long odds, Lupe went with SPHP to inquire at Mako’s Water Taxi about the prospects for a trip across Kachemak Bay to see the Grewingk Glacier tomorrow.
In 2016, Lupe had sailed across Kachemak Bay aboard Mako’s water taxi “Xtra Tuff” to enjoy a fabulous day on Grace Ridge.
As a former customer, Loop hoped the good people at Mako’s could do something about this weather for her, but they weren’t making any promises.

Lupe could go to see the Grewingk Glacier tomorrow, if she wanted to.  The price of the round trip water taxi ride across Kachemak Bay was $80.33 including all taxes and fees.  That was the good news.  No problem, if that was the only consideration.  However, there was the all important weather issue, too.  The people at Mako’s weren’t expecting much change in the weather anytime soon.

Well, if that turned out to be true, no Grewingk Glacier trip for Loopster.  No sense in spending $80.33 to spend a whole day soaking wet, cold and miserable.  Disappointing, but not unexpected.  Nothing to be done about it, except wait to see what things looked like in the morning.

Despite fog and light rain, after leaving Mako’s, Loop and SPHP took a walking tour of the Homer Spit.  Lupe saw many boats on the protected NE side of the spit.

Lupe saw many boats moored on the protected NE side of Homer Spit.

Loop also visited Kachemak Bay on the unprotected SW side of the spit.  The ocean was still beautiful despite the dismal sky.

On the unprotected SW side of Homer Spit next to Kachemak Bay. Photo looks SSE.
Looking NNW along Homer Spit.
Not looking too good for another boat ride tomorrow, is it, SPHP? …. No, afraid not, Looper.

After a damp stroll along Kachemak Bay, Loopster went to take a look at some of the shops along Homer Spit’s main drag.  All sorts of adventures were being advertised!  It all sounded like fun, but Lupe and SPHP were set on going to see the Grewingk Glacier tomorrow.

Bears were a top draw at places advertising wildlife adventures.
Fishing adventures, especially for halibut, were apparently the most popular here.
Sea kayaking was popular, too.

As the evening wore on, already faint hopes for the Grewingk Glacier dream were fading fast.  Sometimes it rained, sometimes it didn’t, but the sky looked like it could rain forever.

9-1-17, 7:29 AM, 45°F – Seemed like a long night.  Rained off and on for hours.  But what was this?

Loopster, look, blue sky!

Oh, maybe we’re in luck!

Can you believe it?  Maybe not, though.  Still some clouds around.

Well, let’s go see what we can find out!  Drive us back to Mako’s, SPHP!

When Lupe and SPHP returned to Homer Spit, there was a lot of blue sky around.  So encouraging, but would it last?  Before going to Mako’s, Lupe ran down to Kachemak Bay.  There was a rainbow over the ocean!

Upon returning to Homer Spit in the morning, Lupe saw a rainbow over Kachemak Bay. Photo looks SW.

The rainbow wasn’t all the American Dingo could see.  High snow and ice clad peaks of Kachemak Bay State Park were in sight across the bay!  Looper could even see Grace Ridge, where she had such a good time last year.  Suddenly, prospects for a Grewingk Glacier adventure were looking bright!

Most of the sky was clear! Lupe could see high snow and ice clad peaks of Kachemak Bay State Park across the bay. Photo looks SSE.
Oh, this looks promising, SPHP! Maybe we can go see the Grewingk Glacier today, after all!
Grace Ridge (3,136 ft.) (Center) where Lupe had such a great adventure in 2016 was in view, too. It was all so encouraging! Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP inquired again at Mako’s.  Lupe could sail at 9:00 AM, with a 9:30 AM arrival at Glacier Spit.  4:00 PM pickup at Saddle Point.  Total price was still $80.33.  Yes, yes, yes!  Want to book it?

Hold on.  And the weather forecast?

Supposed to close in again, and get nasty around noon.

Oh.

Loop and SPHP went back to the G6 to think about it.  Not much time to decide.  15 minutes.  The sun was still shining on Kachemak Bay.  The rainbow was bigger and brighter than before.

Sadly, there really wasn’t much to think over.

Sorry, Looper.

I’m not going to get to see the Grewingk Glacier, am I, SPHP?

Nope.  ‘Fraid not.

The rainbow and all the blue sky had my hopes up.

Mine too.  That’s the way the cookie crumbles, though.

So, now what?

Well, I don’t suppose there’s any sense hanging around here now.  Weather is supposed to be OK for a little while yet.  Maybe we can go to Anchor Point, and you can visit the Rock of the West again?  Anchor Point isn’t far from here.

Oh, wasn’t that where all the seagulls were last year?  That was fun!

OK then, let’s do it!

SPHP had bought a postcard of the Homer Spit yesterday evening for Lupe to send to her Grandma.  Looper told SPHP what to write on it, making sure to send lots of love.  The rainbow was still shining brightly over the ocean as Lupe and SPHP drove away from Homer Spit.  SPHP stopped to mail the postcard before leaving Homer.  When SPHP came out of the post office, it was raining hard.  (9:03 AM, 47°F)

Sheesh, Loopster, glad we didn’t spend $80.33!  We would have enjoyed blue skies only until the moment of departure.

Sigh.  Don’t suppose we will even get to go to the Rock of the West now.

Not true!  Astonishingly, when Lupe arrived at Anchor Point (9:59 AM, 52°F), skies were sunny here.  Distant mountains N of Cook Inlet were cloaked in clouds, but the sky over the ocean was clear and bright.

Lupe returns to Anchor Point for a repeat of her 2016 Last Mile West journey along Cook Inlet.

After leaving the G6, Lupe and SPHP traveled S along the beach.  SPHP ambled along watching the sky, listening to the restless sea, and enjoying the breeze.  Lupe barked at seagulls flying by, and sniffed seaweed and odd bits and pieces of things from the ocean, all while dodging incoming waves.

Lupe by Cook Inlet, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean at Anchor Point. Photo looks W.

Loopster had been to Anchor Point in 2016, too.  She had explored this same stretch of beach.  Since no road connected to the North American highway system goes any farther W than Anchor Point, Lupe was as far W here on this beach as she was ever likely to be in her entire life.

Lupe had taken this same stroll along the beach S from Anchor Point in 2016. At the time, SPHP believed the Carolina Dog was as far W as she would ever be in her life. Yet only a little more than a year later, here she was again. Photo looks SW.

Earlier on this Dingo Vacation, Lupe had returned to the Brooks Range and broken her 2016 Last Mile North record for how far N she had ever been by continuing N on the Dalton Highway all the way to Deadhorse near the Arctic Ocean.

Lupe couldn’t break her 2016 Last Mile West record today.  All she could do was tie it.  The ocean prevented her from going any farther W than this beach.  Even so, it was remarkable to think the American Dingo had actually returned to this remote place.

Lupe stands among strands of seaweed on her 2017 Last Mile West trek along the beach at Anchor Point. Photo looks W.

As Lupe continued S along the beach, it was evident that not taking the water taxi to the Grewingk Glacier across Kachemak Bay from Homer Spit had been a good decision.  The sky to the S toward Kachemak Bay looked dark and stormy.  Heavy rain was falling over that way.

The sky to the S was dark and stormy. Not taking the water taxi to see the Grewingk Glacier had been a good decision. Photo looks S.

Lupe was having a good time on the beach here, so things were working out about as well as they could have today.

Lupe was staying busy and having fun on the beach S of Anchor Point. Photo looks SSW.
Loopster races by a big patch of seaweed. Fun times! Way better than getting drenched would have been.

For about an hour, Loop and SPHP continued S along the beach.  SPHP thought Lupe made it at least as far S as she had gone in 2016.  Back then, Lupe had stood on a dark rock next to the ocean before turning around to return to Anchor Point.  That dark rock had been officially dubbed the Rock of the West, representing the farthest point W Lupe had ever been.

SPHP had expected to be able to recognize the Rock of the West again, but hadn’t seen it.  Maybe the tide was higher or lower now than a year ago?  Entirely possible.  If the Rock of the West was underwater, SPHP wouldn’t have seen it for sure.  Since 2016’s Rock of the West couldn’t be found, Lupe climbed up on a different boulder.  This greenish boulder could serve as 2017’s official Rock of the West.

Lupe astride the all new, 2017 official Rock of the West. Photo looks W.
Lupe never seemed very comfortable up on the 2017 Rock of the West. Photo looks S.
Is that rock slippery or what, Loop? You are perched so strangely on it! Photo looks SW.
I did come back to my westernmost point ever, didn’t I, SPHP? …. You certainly did, Looper! Congratulations! Photo looks NW.

The stroll back to Anchor Point was beautiful and relaxing.  Loop and SPHP were in no rush.  Lupe’s home in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a long way from any ocean.  Being next to the ocean all the way up here in Alaska was such a treat!  Lupe and SPHP savored every moment.

Looking N across Cook Inlet.
White sub-peaks of Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.) stick up out of the clouds on the L. The true summit is hidden from view. In 2016, Lupe had seen it. Photo looks NW.
Seagulls afloat on Cook Inlet.
Looking S one more time. The weather didn’t seem to have improved much. At least the rain stayed down there while Lupe enjoyed her 2017 Last Mile West.

Lupe caught glimpses of the Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.), but she never did see Iliamna’s true summit or any of Redoubt Volcano (10,197 ft.) like she had in 2016.  Both volcanoes remained hidden by the clouds on the far side of Cook Inlet.  However, Loopster could clearly make out the Augustine Volcano (4,025 ft.), which is on an island of its own making, even though it was far across the water on the SW horizon.

This is a far more comfortable rock than that slick green one you chose to be the 2017 Rock of the West, SPHP. You should have picked this one instead!
Nearing Anchor Point again at the end of Lupe’s 2017 Last Mile West trek. She’d had a great time! Living as far from the sea as she does, even short adventures along the ocean are a rare treat for Loop. Photo looks NE.

Seagulls flew by, then either landed to rest on Cook Inlet, or joined flocks strutting about farther along the beach.  A fresh breeze blew out of the SW.  Waves rolled into shore, retreated, reformed, and resumed their ceaseless attacks on the coast.  Puffy white clouds plied a blue, blue sky above the sea.

It was all wonderful!  When Lupe reached Anchor Point again, she stood with SPHP near the shore, watching and listening to the waves roll in a while longer.

Lupe’s last moments near the North Pacific Ocean in 2017. Photo looks NW.
By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea.

After returning to the G6 (12:22 PM), Loop and SPHP still sat watching the ocean while sharing English muffins and salami again for lunch.  A peaceful, leisurely hour went by.  When lunch was over, it was time to move on.  (1:40 PM, 54°F)

Sadly, after only a single brief day, Lupe was leaving the Kenai Peninsula.  If the weather had been better and more reliable, she had a week’s worth of adventures planned here.  As SPHP drove toward Soldotna, there were signs that maybe the weather was going to improve.  Sunny skies prevailed over Cook Inlet.  Even to the S, where rain showers were in progress, patches of blue sky could now be seen over the mountains.

But SPHP had no faith that the weather was really going to clear up and stay that way.  It was September now.  Maybe it was time to leave rainy Alaska?  Lupe did have an alternate backup plan in case the Kenai Peninsula didn’t work out.  Perhaps it was time to put it into action?

Months ago, Lupe’s friend, Australian adventurer Luke Hall, whom she had met at the top of Gunsight Mountain in 2016, had recommended that the Carolina Dog visit Tombstone Territorial Park in the Yukon.  SPHP had been thinking Lupe wouldn’t have time to get over there on this Dingo Vacation, but she still could, if she started that way now.

Several hours after leaving Anchor Point, Lupe was restless.  She was ready to get out of the G6 and do something.  Since Bottenintnin Lake wasn’t that far away now, SPHP asked if she like to make the short side trip off Sterling Highway No. 1 to visit the lake again for a little while?

Bottenintnin Lake where there were lots of squirrels in the forest?  The American Dingo’s response was most enthusiastic!

Oh, yes, all you Dingoes out there. I highly recommend the blue ribbon squirrel watching here at Bottenintnin Lake next time you’re in the area! Photo looks S.
Oh, I won’t go far, SPHP! There’s plenty of squirrels in this forest close by. Call if you need me! I’ll be back in a bit.

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Beluga Point, Portage Lake, the Byron Glacier & Cook Inlet of the North Pacific Ocean, Alaska (8-25-16)

Day 27 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Everything hung on what the radio would say in the morning.  Yesterday evening, the rain had started in again in Palmer, Alaska before the light had faded completely away.  Every time Lupe woke up during the night, the relentless rain continued.  Once there was only fog, but that was hardly any better.

As near as SPHP could tell, the S coast of Alaska had already seen a solid month of rain and gloom.  A couple days ago, the forecast had been for 3 more days of rain, then clearing skies.  Lupe had left Palmer then, resigned to going all the way back to Canada.  Luckily, only an hour’s drive away, the skies had cleared enough so she could spend a couple days climbing Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) and Lion Head (3,185 ft.).  Lupe was still in Alaska!  She had returned to Palmer hoping for the best.

Morning came.  Still raining.  For the 3rd time on this Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation, SPHP cheated and turned on the radio.  If the forecast was unchanged, if the skies really were going to clear in only another day or two, Lupe would stay in Alaska.  On the other hand, if the forecast had been revised again to yet another vague promise of better days another 3 or 4 or 5 days in the future, this was it.  Lupe was abandoning hope, and going back to Canada.

Finally, the weather report came on.  Rain continuing throughout the day in Anchorage … yes, yes, and then? … clearing skies into the weekend, with highs near 70°F.  Click.  That was enough.  No Pepper Peak (5,381 ft.) today, but that was OK.  The clearing skies would likely be coming from the SW.  Lupe was going to greet them.  Well, Loopster, you lucky Dingo, you’re going to get to see Anchorage after all, and a whole lot more!

Anchorage was a big city, like other big cities.  Rush hour traffic slowed to a crawl for miles on the wet Glenn Highway due to an accident.  Downtown, SPHP missed the turn S on the Seward Highway, but managed to get back to it.  S of Anchorage, the rain was lighter.  Skies were still overcast, with occasional patches of fog.

The Seward Highway turned SE following the railroad right along the Turnagain Arm of the North Pacific Ocean.  At Beluga Point, Lupe and SPHP stopped for a look.

Lupe reaches Beluga Point on the Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet, part of the North Pacific Ocean. Photo looks W.
Beluga Point is SE of Anchorage along the Seward Highway, which follows the coast of the Turnagain Arm. Photo looks NW.

Beluga Point is a popular place for watching Beluga whales.  Although the white whales are usually easy to spot, Lupe didn’t see any.  Several people at the Beluga Point pullout told SPHP they often saw whales here.  One claimed to have seen 28 Beluga whales during a single recent visit.

A powerful tide was coming in.  The strong, rippling current looked dangerous, as the ocean surged SE into the Turnagain Arm past Beluga Point.  Less than 10 miles away on the misty far shore, Lupe had her first glimpse of the Kenai Peninsula.

A powerful tidal current ripples past Beluga Point as the ocean surges SE (L) into the Turnagain Arm. On the far shore, Lupe could see the misty N coast of the Kenai Peninsula. Photo looks SW.
Looking S from Beluga Point.

Lupe and SPHP continued on.  The murky brown waters of the Turnagain Arm didn’t look very deep.  From the G6, Lupe saw huge expanses of exposed mud flats.  The incoming tide was in the process of inundating them again.  When the SE end of the Turnagain Arm came into view, Lupe made a brief stop at another viewpoint.

Near Girdwood, the SE end of the Turnagain Arm came into view. Photo looks SE.
Even on a cloudy, misty day, the scenery was beautiful. Photo looks SE at a glacier perched on a steep mountainside near the end of the Turnagain Arm.

The last several miles of the Turnagain Arm was nothing but mud flats and marshlands with a river flowing through it all.  Rounding the very SE end, Lupe and SPHP left the Seward Highway, turning E (L) on Portage Glacier Road.  Lupe didn’t take the road quite all the way to the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel to Whittier.  Instead, she went to see Portage Lake, bypassing the Begich Boggs Visitor Center along the way.

Lupe arrives at Portage Lake. The Portage Glacier used to fill this entire valley, but has since retreated out of sight behind the mountain on the R. Portage Lake is 3 miles long and up to 1 mile wide. Photo looks SE along 2/3 of the length of the lake.

Note: The Begich Boggs Visitor Center is located at the NW end of Portage Lake about 6 miles from the Seward Highway.  It was built in 1986 on the 1914 terminal moraine of the Portage Glacier.  The Portage Glacier used to be visible at the far SE end of the lake from the visitor center, but has since retreated out of sight.  Among other services, commercial boat tours to see the glacier are available at the visitor center.

The Portage Glacier can also be viewed from Portage Pass, accessed via a good hiking trail with 800 ft. of elevation gain.  From the pass, it is possible to hike on toward Portage Lake for a closer look at the glacier, which is less than a mile directly across the lake.  The turn to the Portage Pass trailhead is located on the SW (R) side of the road to Whittier about 0.25 mile after going through the 2.5 mile long Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel.  A $13.00 round trip fee (passenger car, 2016) is charged to go through the tunnel.

Even under drippy, overcast skies, Portage Lake was very beautiful.  On the opposite NE shore of the lake, Lupe saw waterfalls cascading down from a hanging glacier on Maynard Mountain (4,137 ft.).

Across Portage Lake, waterfalls cascaded down from a hanging glacier on Maynard Mountain. Photo looks NE.
Maynard Mountain from across Portage Lake. Photo looks NE.
From Portage Lake, Lupe could hear these waterfalls on Maynard Mountain, as well as others on nearby peaks. Photo looks NE using the telephoto lens.

Less than 0.5 mile before Lupe reached Portage Lake, she had passed by the trailhead to the Byron Glacier.  This easy trail with very modest elevation gain leads about a mile up a valley to the SW where the Byron Glacier can be seen.  Lupe and SPHP left Portage Lake to go check it out, parking the G6 at the trailhead (11:52 AM, 53°F).

The first part of the trail was an easy stroll through a forest.  Meltwaters from the Byron Glacier formed a rushing stream on the SE side of the trail.  The trail did not cross the stream, but followed it up the valley.  When the trail left the forest, the Byron Glacier, which has retreated up onto the steep N slopes of Byron Peak (4,700 ft.), was in view ahead.

When the trail left the forest, the Byron Glacier was in view clinging to the steep N face of Byron Peak. Photo looks SW.
The Byron Glacier has retreated from the valley, and is now a hanging glacier. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.
The top of Byron Peak was hidden in the clouds, but most of the glacier was in view. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

The official Byron Glacier trail ended at a low rock wall.  The trail was busy, even on this overcast day, and some people turned back here.  However, many went farther up the valley to get closer to the glacier, scrambling among the rocky terrain left by the glacier’s retreat.  Lupe and SPHP continued beyond the trail’s end, too.

Lupe on the low rock wall at the official end of the Byron Glacier trail. The glacier has retreated so far that the end of the trail is no longer all that close to the glacier. Photo looks SW.

The Byron Glacier is famous for having accessible ice caves.  Lupe didn’t go that far, but she did go beyond the official end of the trail far enough to see what appeared to be a large ice cave ahead.

Lupe went far enough up the valley to where she could see what looked like a large ice cave ahead. Photo looks SW.
The ice cave looked less like a cave through the telephoto lens, but maybe there was a cave up there somewhere. What was clear was that the Byron Glacier was larger than it looked. A lot of snow and ice was hidden beneath rocks and debris. Photo looks SW.

The closer Lupe got, the easier it was to see the blue ice high up on the Byron Glacier.  The glacier was a beautiful sight with the gorgeous blue and white ice above, and waterfalls plunging down the gray mountainside below.

The Byron Glacier was a gorgeous sight with blue and white ice above, and waterfalls plunging down the gray mountainside below. Photo looks SW.
Love that glacial blue ice!

Lupe explored up the valley far enough to where she could look back down and see Portage Lake surrounded by mountains in the distance.

Looking back down the valley, Lupe could see Portage Lake surrounded by mountains in the distance. Photo looks NE.
Meltwaters from the Byron Glacier stream toward Portage Lake. The waters will eventually leave Portage Lake flowing only 6 miles NW to the Turnagain Arm of the North Pacific Ocean. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 (1:51 PM).  Even at a leisurely pace, the easy trek to see the Byron Glacier had only taken a couple of hours.  At least it had given Lupe a chance to get some exercise.  Most of the rest of the day would be spent in the G6 looking for those sunny skies.

SPHP drove back to the Seward Highway and turned S (L).  Almost immediately, the highway curved around to the NW.  A few miles later, it turned SW where a big sign welcomed Lupe to the Kenai Peninsula!

Lupe reaches Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula.

The drive through the Kenai Peninsula was gorgeous.  Lupe saw forests, towering mountains, big lakes and rivers.  At a junction, SPHP took the Sterling Highway toward Soldotna.  Lupe passed Kenai Lake, traveled for miles along the beautiful blue-green Kenai River, saw the turnoffs for huge Skilak Lake and the Russian River where bears fish for salmon.

A few miles after passing the Mystery Hills trailhead, the Sterling Highway left the mountains.  This part of the Kenai Peninsula was low, forested, flat, and dotted with lakes and marshlands.  Sterling was hardly noticeable as a community, but Soldotna was a thriving, busy place.  A quick stop for supplies at the Safeway in Soldotna, and Lupe continued on.

The Sterling Highway headed SW from Soldotna, eventually reaching bluffs above the Cook Inlet of the North Pacific Ocean.  By now the skies had cleared.  At last, Lupe basked in sunshine!  Perched along the bluffs overlooking Cook Inlet were homes, campgrounds, RV parks and restaurants.  They all had a stupendous view.

Far to the W across Cook Inlet was a grand, lofty mountain.  At first, SPHP wasn’t sure what mountain that was, but Lupe was seeing the highest peak of the Aleutian Range, the Redoubt Volcano (10,197 ft.), for the first time.

SW of Soldotna, the Sterling Highway reached bluffs above the Cook Inlet of the North Pacific Ocean. Far away to the W, on the other side of Cook Inlet, Lupe saw a grand, lofty mountain – the Redoubt Volcano! Photo looks W.

Near the tiny village of Ninilchik, SPHP left the highway to drive a couple miles down a deeply potholed road to the beach.  Lupe and SPHP left the G6, and walked down to the shore of Cook Inlet.

Bathed in evening sunlight, Lupe reaches Cook Inlet of the North Pacific Ocean near the tiny community of Ninilchik. Redoubt Volcano is very faintly seen on the far horizon straight up from Lupe’s head. Photo looks NW.

Faintly, beyond the shining sea, Lupe saw not just one, but two magnificent peaks!  To the NW was the Redoubt Volcano, which she had already glimpsed from the highway.  To the W was another glacier-covered stratovolcano, nearly as high, the Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.).

Redoubt Volcano from the Cook Inlet beach at Ninilchik. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
Across the shining sea was a 2nd magnificent mountain, the Iliamna Volcano. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.

Lupe had seen the ocean twice already on her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation, once at Hyder, Alaska on her trip to see the Salmon Glacier, and then again earlier today at Beluga Point.  At Ninilchik, though, for the first time since she was only 1.5 years old during her 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast, Lupe got to go for a walk along the ocean.

Here at Ninilchik, a happy Lupe got to go for a walk along the ocean for the first time since she was only 1.5 years old on her 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast. She went as far as the end of the bluff seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.

SPHP wondered if Lupe remembered playing at the ocean?  Did she remember what a fabulous time she had on the West Coast in 2012 racing along the beach, while barking at seagulls flying overhead?  At first, Lupe seemed uncertain about the ocean, but somewhere in that Dingo mind, she did recall something.

Soon she was watching for seagulls again, but saw only one fly by.  She made up for it by barking at some crows.  Loop began to run around exploring, stopping to sniff the very strange smells of seaweed, dead crabs, and other things washed up on the beach.  She remained cautious, though, when it came to the cold waves rolling in to shore.  She was careful not to let more than her paws get wet.

Lupe looks out to sea, being careful not to let more than her paws get wet in the cold water. If Lupe had been here 238 years earlier in late May, 1778, she might have seen the HMS Resolution sail by under the command of famous explorer Captain James Cook on his search for the fabled Northwest Passage.
Exploring the beach.

The evening stroll along Cook Inlet was fantastic!  Living in the Black Hills of South Dakota more than 1,000 miles from any ocean, being here was a rare treat.  The glowing sunlight, the sound and motion of the surf, and the distant wild mountains of Alaska on the far shore watched over by the giant Redoubt and Iliamna Volcanoes were an unforgettable combination.

Lupe went SW along Cook Inlet as far as Deep Creek, right across from Cape Ninilchik.  She was perhaps 2 miles from where she’d started near Ninilchik village.  Then it was time to turn around, and enjoy it all over again.

Lupe on the shore of Cook Inlet. Buildings back at the village of Ninilchik are seen on the far bluff. Photo looks NE.

A woman was searching for her lost 9 year old dog named Ola, when Lupe and SPHP neared Ninilchik again.  Unfortunately, Lupe and SPHP hadn’t seen Ola, and couldn’t help her.  Lupe’s fur was full of sand from her romp on the beach, so SPHP drove her over to a campground to rinse it off.

It wasn’t long until sunset now, but there was still time to go take a look at Ninilchik’s most famous building.  On a steep bluff above the village of Ninilchik sits a Russian Orthodox church dedicated on this site in 1901.  Lupe and SPHP went to pay it a visit.  When Lupe arrived, the lady looking for Ola was there, too.  Someone had seen Ola not too far from here a short time ago.

Since Ola was likely to be found soon, Lupe went on to take a look at the little church.

This Russian Orthodox church sits on a bluff above the village of Ninilchik.
The church was closed, but Lupe at least got to sit on the front porch.

The churchyard seemed to double as a graveyard with many white crosses around. The grounds also featured a profusion of flowers.

The Russian Orthodox church was a quaint reminder of the Russian origins of Ninilchik back in the 1800’s before the United States purchased Alaska from Russia.  Lupe had a good time sniffing among the many flowers growing in the churchyard, but she couldn’t stay long.

Before the sun was down, Lupe returned to the beach on the Cook Inlet.  A handful of other people and dogs were around (though not the elusive Ola), too.  Everyone was gathered here to enjoy sunset over Cook Inlet and the mountains on the far shore.

Iliamna Volcano from Ninilchik near sunset. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.
Lupe made it back to the beach on Cook Inlet near Ninilchik with little time to spare before sunset. Redoubt Volcano can be seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
Cook Inlet and Redoubt Volcano. Photo looks NW.
Cook Inlet and Iliamna Volcano. Photo looks W.

Sunset at Ninilchik was an amazingly beautiful and peaceful time.  Everyone was friendly and happy.  Lupe had found her sunshine at last, after many long days of trying to dodge, or wait out, frequent rain beneath dark skies.

Sunset over Cook Inlet from Ninilchik. Iliamna Volcano on L. Photo looks W.
Carolina Dog, Lupe was 238 years too late to see Captain James Cook of the British navy sail by on his search for the Northwest Passage, but at least she was here now to discover Cook Inlet for all American Dingoes!
Day’s end at Cook Inlet, Ninilchik, Alaska. Photo looks WNW.
Iliamna Volcano.
Redoubt Volcano.

And then it was over.  The last rays of sunset disappeared from view.

The sun was down, but Lupe’s day wasn’t over yet.  As golden twilight faded to night, SPHP drove SSW on the Sterling Highway.  Near Anchor Point, Lupe was running out of land farther W on the Kenai Peninsula.  The road curved S, then SE.

It was 10:30 PM, by the time Lupe rolled into Homer.  Her next big Alaska adventure would start here.  Today, Lupe had reached and enjoyed time spent along the North Pacific Ocean at Cook Inlet.  Tomorrow, if the weather held, explorer Lupe would set sail.

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