Overlander Falls – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Yukon Bound! – Getting Nowhere on the Long Road North (8-8-19 to 8-10-19)

Days 4-6 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-8-19, dawn, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 W of Jasper – Uh-oh. Warning! Dingo triggering event ahead! Not another soul on the road yet, but SPHP had to brake. One of those portable temporary stoplights for road construction had just turned red. Lupe stared in disbelief, her eyes growing big as saucers as she began to realize what she was coming to. Her hackles rose. SPHP completely shut the windows on her side of the G6. Here it comes!

The G6 exploded with noise, as Looper sprang into action. A full-fledged 5 alarm, frothing at the mouth, barking frenzy was underway! The American Dingo bounded up and down, back and forth, whacking her head against the windshield, nose smearing against the side window, decibel level as high and shrill as she could possibly maintain it.

Egads! Turn green for pity sake! The stoplight remained a stubborn cherry red. 15 feet outside Lupe’s window a magnificent bull elk looked up momentarily. What was all that racket? Whatever it was all about, the elk decided it didn’t concern him, and went back to casually munching whatever it was he was munching.

A mile later, sides still heaving, Lupe gasped.

What is the matter with you, SPHP? It takes a thermonuclear device to get your attention! An enormous giant deer was frozen in place right there outside the G6! Easy pickings! We could have been feasting on fresh, warm, bloody venison right now! Don’t tell me you didn’t see it!

Oh, I saw it alright, beyond a brown and white blur! How could I not see it with you about to bust a gut for 10 solid minutes? I thought that light would never turn green. We are in a Canadian National Park, Loop. I’m reasonably certain park officials would frown upon us devouring a freshly killed elk right next to the highway. Besides, what makes you think it would be that easy? That giant deer must have outweighed you 50 to 1!

You would have helped me, wouldn’t you, SPHP?

Of course. I could use a few years free room and board courtesy of the Canadian government. Shudder to think what might become of you, though, Loop.

Tangle Ridge had been a grand success yesterday, but over 3,800 feet of elevation gain had taken a toll. The giant deer frenzy must have sucked up whatever energy the Carolina Dog had recovered overnight. Yukon bound, the day turned into a relaxing road trip. Serenity returned as Loopster took to snoozing on her pink blankie.

That didn’t mean there couldn’t be a few stops at favorite places. Still needed to stretch now and then to keep the blood circulating.

**Overlander Falls**, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.

**Rearguard Falls**, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia

**Rearguard Falls** on the **Fraser River**.

Exploring near the **Goat River** rest stop.

The whole day got spent cruising NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, all of it in British Columbia after crossing the border from Alberta early on. Shortly before reaching Fort Fraser, a tall plume of black smoke came into view on Lupe’s side of the highway. Traffic was backed up ahead.

Turned out to be a badly burnt out vehicle. Spontaneous combustion? Didn’t seem to be the result of a collision. By the time Lupe went by, the fire department had already put out the fire.

Sure hope the ole’ G6 doesn’t get any ideas, SPHP!

Yeah, that’ll be us someday, Looper. We’re bailing, though, at the first sign of trouble. If you ever sniff smoke, let me know right away.

Like that would help! I’m not expecting any rapid response miracles out of you, SPHP, after that giant deer episode.

Well, warn me anyway. I’m likely to be more excitable, if the G6 threatens to burst into flames.

At the **Dry Williams Lake** rest stop. A year ago forest fires had rained ash on the G6 here.

By late afternoon, Lupe was at Steelhead Park in Houston. Small, but exquisitely maintained. Sniffing the fragrant blossoms of all the colorful flowers was pure delight! Looper paid homage to the Dingo god, too.

**Steelhead Park** in Houston is always such a lovely break!

*So why doesn’t our yard look like this, SPHP? … Something to do with a brown thumb, Loop!*

8-8-19, 5:45 PM, Smithers, British Columbia – The long drive was over for now. Lupe reached Smithers near the Babine Mountains with sufficient daylight remaining to explore the town. She visited the Bulkley River, then took a stroll down Main Street looking for the Sausage Factory. A year ago she had met the former owners, Fred and Teresa Reitsma, at Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River. They’d been on their way to Dawson City.

Fred and Teresa had invited Lupe to drop by the Sausage Factory, if she ever got to Smithers again. Now she was here, but too late! The Sausage Factory was closed for the day. Too bad. It looked like a ritzy place! The product line was of considerable interest to a famished American Dingo, too. Maybe Loop could return tomorrow?

By the **Bulkley River** in Smithers, British Columbia.

Outside the **Sausage Factory**, 1107 Main Street in Smithers, British Columbia.

*We’ll go in tomorrow, right, SPHP? … With any luck, Looper!*

Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) was on the agenda tomorrow, a super prominent (5,000 ft.+) peak W of Smithers. Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the true summit, which was a technical climb. The S summit wasn’t much lower, though, and was supposed to be accessible by a route that continued higher from Crater Lake.

By sunset, Lupe was at the Crater Lake trailhead, high on Hudson Bay Mountain’s S flank. A gorgeous evening! Things were looking good!

**Hudson Bay Mountain** (L) from **Astlais Mountain** exactly one year earlier on 8-8-18.

8-9-19, 6:58 AM, Hudson Bay Mountain, near the Crater Lake trailhead – The Carolina Dog sniffed aimlessly around the G6. Fog and mist. Hardly an inspiring start to the day. It was what it was. Reality rules. No point in this. Oh, well.

Down in Smithers a short while later, it was just an overcast day. Only the upper half of Hudson Bay Mountain was shrouded in clouds, but that was the half Lupe had hoped to visit. Some sort of front must have moved in overnight, nothing too dramatic, but enough to be a spoiler. Kind of a shame. Hudson Bay Mountain wasn’t the only candidate on Lupe’s list in this region.

However, didn’t seem to be much sense in waiting around. The Yukon was still a long way. Somewhere skies were blue! Without even waiting for the Sausage Factory to open, Lupe was on her way again.

20 minutes W of Smithers, SPHP drove into rain. 20 minutes W of Seeley Lake, the long drive on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 finally came to an end. Lupe was on her way N on Cassiar Hwy No. 37! The Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory was now only 724 km (450 miles) away. The rain stopped 40 km later. At 60 km, a patch of blue sky was seen ahead.

The weather improved as the G6 sped N. The scenery was gorgeous! Big lakes, mountains, and rivers, but Lupe seldom got a break from being cooped up. This was really wild territory, with hardly a trail anywhere as far as SPHP knew. Daunting. The only significant stop Lupe made was at the Stikine River, a favorite spot known to harbor squirrels in the forest near the riverbank.

Lunch break at the **Bell 1 rest stop** 117 km N of Meziadin Junction.

At the **Stikine River**, looking upstream toward the Cassiar Hwy bridge.

Looking downstream. The Grand Canyon of the Stikine starts not far from here.

8-9-19, 7:15 PM, Beaver Dam rest stop along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Only 75 km left to the Alaska Highway, but enough was enough. After a bite to eat, having spent practically the entire day on the road, Lupe finally got to do some exploring. N of the rest stop a dirt road curved slowly NW into the forest. Maybe it would lead to the beaver dam? None was in sight at the rest stop.

A gentle 0.33 mile uphill stroll led to a bit of a drop into a little valley. No beaver dam. So far, SPHP had found only mosquitoes. Lupe was doing better. A couple of squirrels had come to her attention, and now to her enormous satisfaction, she came across a succession of mud puddles covering the entire road. The American Dingo plopped herself right down in each one, clearly enjoying lapping up murky mineral water, and that oh, so wild and natural feeling one gets from being absolutely filthy.

Upon getting back to the Cassiar Hwy, SPHP picked as much trash out of the ditches as could be carried back to the rest stop for proper disposal.

We’re doing something wrong, Loop, when a load of trash, and a dingy Dingo are the highlight of the day!

8-10-19, 35ºF at the forest fire pond along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Chilly out, but at least the sky was blue! By the forest fire pond Lupe squinted into the brilliant glare of the morning sun. Going to be a great day! Another one on the road again, though. Lupe had already made a few tracks. This pond was what, a mere 30 km from the Yukon?

In the early morning sunlight by the forest fire pond.

8:08 AM, 39ºF, Yukon border, Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Two days of pent-up energy could be contained no longer. The were-puppy attacked as soon as SPHP stepped out of the G6. Leaping, growling, nipping, tugging, tearing – all the usual were-puppy tactics.

You know, were-puppy, you are at least part of the reason I’m always in tatters!

Oh, you love it, SPHP! It’s all in good fun!

For some of us. I notice you don’t ever come away turning yellow and green and purple and blue.

Sorry ’bout that. Now and then I get carried away.

Apology accepted, provided you let go of my pants without ripping them any further. How about a romp in the woods along the Yukon border? Might be a squirrel out there somewhere!

A romp and a squirrel sounded good. After visiting the Yukon border sign, Lupe dashed off into the forest. A squirrel did materialize, making SPHP look like a genius.

Made it! At the **Yukon Territory border**!

Burning off some steam early on was a good thing. 2 km N of the Yukon border Cassiar Hwy No. 37 came to an end. SPHP turned W (L) onto the Alaska Highway. Hours slipped by, the only significant stop being a now traditional one at Teslin Lake.

**Teslin Lake** – a traditional Lupe stop along the Alaska Highway.

By **Teslin Lake**. **Dawson Peaks** (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

By early afternoon, Lupe had left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, and was on her way back into British Columbia heading S on Hwy 7 to Atlin. A lunch stop was made on a bluff overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

**Atlin Lake** and **Mount Minto** (R) from a bluff Lupe discovered in 2018. Photo looks S.

Atlin Lake is long and narrow. It was still quite a way to the town of Atlin on its E shore. Shortly before Loopster got there, SPHP spotted a couple of float planes on Como Lake, a small lake W of Hwy 7. Might be fun to go take a look. The American Dingo was all for it!

Checking out the float planes at **Como Lake**.

*Oh, this does look like fun! We could go soaring over the mountains!*

None of the stops today had been terribly long. By mid-afternoon, Lupe was back in Atlin again! A year ago, she’d had a terrific time climbing Monarch Mountain SE of town.

At the Atlin marina, with **Monarch Mountain** in the background. Photo looks SE.

Being back in Atlin was exciting! Lupe went to the waterfront to see the gorgeous lake and the Tarahne, a century old excursion boat which had once upon a time brought tourists to Atlin.

*Oh, it’s wonderful to be back at fabulous **Atlin Lake** again! And with big plans, too!*

By the **Tarahne**, which decades ago had brought tourists to Atlin.

Off to the SW was the reason Lupe was here. Across Atlin Lake near the far W shore was a large island. Teresa Island was dominated by a single massive mountain which occupied virtually the entire island. In 2018, Lupe had seen Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), not only from Atlin, but also from Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.).

**Birch Mountain**, the whole reason Lupe had returned to Atlin. Photo looks SW.

For the past year, SPHP couldn’t help thinking that Birch Mountain had looked climbable from the N. Why, Lupe could do that! From the top there ought to be a fantastic view of the Llewellyn Glacier, which the Carolina Dog had glimpsed on the far horizon from Monarch Mountain. Birch Mountain had a peculiarity, too, which added to its overall appeal. With 1,393 meters (4,570 ft.) of prominence, Birch Mountain was the 2nd most prominent lake island in the entire world!

Until Lupe had run across Birch Mountain, it had never occurred to SPHP that she might be capable of summiting the 2nd best of any class of mountain in the whole world, yet here was an opportunity to do so in this remote NW corner of British Columbia, an area Lupe had been close to on her summer Dingo Vacations these past 3 years. The whole notion was so enticing!

Beyond the usual weather considerations, 2 significant problems needed to be addressed. First, how to get over to Teresa Island? Second, how to get above tree line? The lower portions of the island looked densely forested. Was there a trail? If not, was the forest open enough to simply amble up through it without too much difficulty? If Looper could get above tree line, the upper regions of the mountain appeared to be quite manageable. SPHP was confident she could reach the summit.

Time to get some answers! Across the street from the waterfront was a hotel. SPHP went in to see what might be learned, while Lupe waited in the G6. Hotel personnel directed SPHP to the Atlin Historical Society a few blocks away. The Historical Society turned out to be a museum. Inside, a couple of old ladies were busy answering tourist’s questions.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Nothing yet, Loop. Didn’t even talk to them. Might be wrong, but I doubt they know anything at all about getting to Teresa Island or climbing Birch Mountain in there.

What now, then?

I think there was a sign when we came into town about kayak rentals. Not going to take on Atlin Lake in a kayak, but maybe they rent motor boats, too? Let’s go have a look.

Sure enough, there was a sign. Glacier View Cabins, canoe and kayak rentals, 12 km on Warm Bay Road.

Glacier View Cabins seemed worth checking out.

Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP saw no sign of Glacier View Cabins. After going an extra 2 miles, SPHP turned around. On the way back N, there it was! A sign was near a steep driveway on the E side of the road, away from Atlin Lake. SPHP drove up only as far as the first couple of cabins before parking the G6. Lupe hopped out.

Nobody seemed to be around. Lupe and SPHP trudged farther up the steep driveway. At the upper end, a home sat perched on a slope with a fabulous view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier. SPHP rang the doorbell. No answer. Knocking and ringing again didn’t help. On the verge of giving up, Lupe and SPHP were still standing next to the door, when suddenly a man appeared carrying a basket of laundry.

Peter Sidler and his wife, Edith, who wasn’t home at the moment, own and operate Glacier View Cabins. Originally from Switzerland, Peter had been a resident of Atlin for the past 37 years. Although busy, he invited Lupe and SPHP into his home.

Peter had canoes and kayaks available for rent, but said Atlin Lake was too big and dangerous to cross over to Teresa Island in such craft. He also had a motor boat that would have worked, but it was rented out for the next 2 days. The following 2 days it was committed to participation in a search and rescue class.

Peter did share some good information. Over the years, he had climbed Birch Mountain multiple times. There were no trails on Teresa Island, and Peter was skeptical of SPHP’s proposed route from the N. He’d never tried that, but expected the willows would make it tough to get through the forest.

The best route was from the SE, where a major rock slide gets down to within 200 meters of the shore. Staying on the rocks made the climb much easier. Peter had once gone up the NW side of the mountain, but that was more difficult. Yes, Birch Mountain could be climbed in a single day, but it would be a long, hard one.

Although Peter couldn’t get Lupe to Teresa Island in the next few days, he knew who might be able to help. No regular water taxi services were available in Atlin, but Archie Wiggins had tremendous experience in the area and ran charter services with his large boat. Gary Hill might also have a suitable boat available. A call to Mr. Wiggins went unanswered. Probably out on the water with clients.

Armed with phone numbers and instructions on how to find both Wiggins and Hill, Lupe and SPHP departed after thanking Peter for all his help. Returning to Atlin, Lupe dropped by Wiggins’ house, but no one was there. At the Hill household, Gary’s wife, Bobbi, was out in the yard. She was friendly and summoned Gary. Again no luck. Gary’s boat was rented out, and wouldn’t be available for a whole week. He had no other options for Lupe.

That left Archie Wiggins, Lupe’s last and best bet. After dinner, Loop and SPHP returned to his house in Atlin. A vehicle was there now, but knocking on the door and walking around back produced no response. Hmm. Suddenly the front door opened. Barefoot and in an old T-shirt, Archie Wiggins strode out of the house. Peter and Bobbi had both called Archie leaving messages on Lupe’s behalf. So what did SPHP want?

Passage across Atlin Lake both to and from Teresa Island.

Wiggins and his boat were available tomorrow, but his response was surprising.

Don’t really know much about Birch Mountain. We don’t get much call for it. People seldom want to hike Birch. Usually they helicopter over there. Most people I deal with want to go either to Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) where there’s a trail, or Cathedral Mountain (6,965 ft.). Cathedral is a gorgeous mountain, a premier destination.

Not familiar with Cathedral. What does it cost to go there? Really came for Birch. Are you willing to take us to Teresa Island?

Are you alone? Just you and the dog?

Yes.

For drop off and pickup, it’s $1,000 to Cathedral. Really a wonderful trip, and a fabulous peak. To Birch, $175. That’s just to the NE shore. More if you want to be dropped off somewhere else.

$175?

Do you have inReach?

I suppose maybe we ought to, but no. I don’t.

We get a lot of intrepid individuals up here, who’ve done some amazing things. My customers know what they’re doing and come prepared. I’m not going to be responsible for anyone who’s going to put themselves in a situation.

With that, without waiting for a response, Archie Wiggins turned and went back into his house. The door banged shut behind him.

That went well.

Dingo feathers! I totally blew it, Looper! The moment he quoted $175 for Teresa Island, I should have asked him what time we could start in the morning. I only hesitated because I was wondering if I ought to ask him about going to the SE side of the island to the rock slide Peter mentioned. Could have done that once we were already on board crossing the lake. He would have been thrilled to charge us more, if we didn’t like the looks of the NE shore.

He still might have asked you about inReach.

Maybe, but maybe not, too. We might well have been on our way! It would have worked out. Wiggins knows what he’s doing, and he was our last and best chance. Can’t believe I let it all fall apart like that.

Too late now. Why don’t we take the helicopter, SPHP? That would be amazing!

That’s right! He did say most people helicopter to Birch.

Discovery Helicopters was close to where Hwy 7 reached Atlin. Right away SPHP ran into Matt, a young, professional helicopter pilot.

Birch Mountain? No problem. Alone? That’s too bad. Price is the same for up to 4 people. We fly you up to an upper ridge. Still a nice hike to the summit from there. Spectacular views! Just tell us what time you want us to meet you again for pickup back at the ridge. Too late in the day to go now, but we can get you there as early as you like in the morning.

Price? Well, 10 minutes flight time one way. Two round trip flights. That’s 40 minutes. Gotta figure some time for loading and unloading. $1,000 will do it. If someone else wants to fly beyond Birch about the same time, we could save you something on that, but don’t think we have anyone lined up at the moment. Drop in again in the morning, if you want to go. We’ll see if that’s changed, and work out the details. We’ll get Lupe up there!

SPHP thanked Matt and returned to the G6.

Are we really going in a helicopter, SPHP?

It’s a great deal with 4 paying passengers. $250.00 each, Canadian. Lucky American Dingoes get a nice discount at the current exchange rate. How are those royalties on your blog doing? Rolling in the dough by now, I hope?

Business has been, umm, steady, SPHP.

Still nothing, aye?

Zippo.

Any book advances or movie rights in play?

The agents just mutter something about “extremely limited market”. By the way, what does “infinitesimal” mean?

In this context, Loopster, it means “Ain’t gonna happen.” How about those endorsements? Anything happening there?

I haven’t really endorsed anything except playing in the mountains and T-bone steaks.

No ad revenue, either, I don’t suppose.

There might be, eventually, if we ever come up with an ad.

I see. Well, doubt I can rustle up 3 additional paying passengers in the next few hours. Atlin is a small place. Probably doesn’t make sense to hang out at the marina tomorrow trying to buy a random ride from some boater to Teresa Island, either, since we’ll actually need to get back, too.

No helicopter ride?

At $250, yes. Absolutely. What an experience! Not at $1,000. We can get more bang for our buck at another mountain. To tell you the truth, I’m sort of used to free, other than our normal travel expenses.

And that was that. Lupe’s Birch Mountain dreams had gone up in smoke. The Carolina Dog left Atlin heading back N on Hwy 7. Sundown found her at a little rest stop along the E shore of Atlin Lake. The lake was almost mirror smooth. The evening so calm, and a little sad.

6 days into what was meant to be Lupe’s grandest Dingo Vacation of 2019, Tangle Ridge had been her only major peakbagging success. Failure at Hudson Bay Mountain. Failure at Birch. She’d traveled the long road N to the Yukon, and wasn’t far from it now, yet it seemed the Carolina Dog was getting nowhere fast.

SPHP might be concerned, but Lupe wasn’t. Tomorrow was another day.

**Birch Mountain** from the E shore of **Atlin Lake**, British Columbia, Canada 8-10-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Monarch Mountain near Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-12-18)

The Crocus Trail to Pine Creek Falls, Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-11-18)

Glacier View Cabins (Peter Sidler)

Discovery Helicopters

Archie Wiggins (Atlin Lake boat charters) PH: 250-651-7542

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Smoke & Water – The Canadian Rockies to the Babine Mountains (8-7-18 & 8-8-18)

Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53°F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.). Yesterday she’d had the grand good fortune to make it to the summit, but mountain climbing wasn’t on the agenda today. This was a rest and travel day.

Not the kind of hurried, don’t stop for anything except restrooms, fuel, and food sort of travel. The Canadian Rockies are too wonderful for that! Although the American Dingo was going hundreds of miles, she would still have opportunities to stop at favorite places along the road.

So that was the plan. By the time Lupe reached Jasper National Park, though, the sky was uncharacteristically hazy. Smoke from distant forest fires dimmed normally crisp views of the mountains.

8-7-18, 9:09 AM, 58°F, Icefields Centre, Jasper National Park – Smoky, but not bad. SPHP stopped so Lupe could see one of the Canadian Rockies’ most amazing views from the highway, the Athabasca Glacier. The huge glacier, one of six major arms of the Columbia Icefield, has retreated a long way over the past century, but remains a must see, if one has any opportunity at all!

Of course, Lupe had seen the Athabasca Glacier before – a couple of times from an even more spectacular vantage point up by Wilcox Pass. Despite the smoke, the view from the highway was still absolutely worthwhile.

*The **Athabasca Glacier** is a must see attraction of the Canadian Rockies!* Photo looks SW.

**Mount Athabasca**, one of several splendid peaks near the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SSE.

**Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.)** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe and SPHP continued N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the smoky haze did not diminish. The smoke marred views of the mountains, but didn’t interfere with sights closer by. Waterfalls, rivers, and lakes were destined to become the focus for the day. Luckily, the Carolina Dog was going to go right past some great ones!

8-7-18, 9:57 AM, 62°F, Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park – The first big waterfall N of the Athabasca Glacier was Sunwapta Falls. The silt-laden Sunwapta River was running high. A torrent of light gray water swept by an upstream island then plunged into a narrow gorge immediately downstream.

Lupe checked out the impressive scene from both a bridge over the gorge, and a chain link fence at the very brink of the falls.

**Sunwapta Falls**. The **Sunwapta River** starts at Sunwapta Pass at the S end of Jasper National Park. Meltwaters from the Athabasca Glacier contribute to the flow.

*Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen **Sunwapta Falls** with such tremendous flow before!*

8-7-18, 10:28 AM, 68°F, Athabasca River, Jasper National Park – The Sunwapta River flows into the mighty Athabasca River. Athabasca Falls was going to be absolutely roaring today! Before Lupe got that far, though, SPHP stopped at the American Dingo’s favorite picnic ground on the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

This choice spot right along the Athabasca River was often completely vacant several years ago when Lupe first discovered it. For some reason there hadn’t been any signage for it along the highway. Signage was sadly present now, but since it was still a bit early for lunch, Lupe found her picnic ground delightfully quiet again this morning.

Loop enjoyed a stroll upstream along the Athabasca River, spent some time roaming the forest looking for squirrels to bark at, and even went wading along the river’s edge. Having skipped breakfast, SPHP had an early lunch at one of the tables overlooking the river, while catching up the trip journal.

*How’s this for a view from your picnic table? There’s always squirrels in the forest, too!*

*I’ll stay right by the edge here, SPHP, promise! I remember that giant waterfall downstream. Not going over that!* Loop in the **Athabasca River**.

8-7-18, 11:31 AM, 75°F, Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park – The turn to Athabasca Falls was only 5 miles N of the picnic ground. This close to noon on a lovely day in early August, Athabasca Falls was teeming with tourists. Justifiably so. Lupe and SPHP played tourist, too. It was a wait your turn at the viewpoints situation, but totally worth it.

Lupe liked all the activity! People smiled at her, children petted her, plenty of other doggie tourists were available to sniff with, and, of course, there was that enormously powerful waterfall to admire.

*Even if you have to wait in line, just do it! **Athabasca Falls** is so impressive!*

**Athabasca Falls** is 20 miles S of Jasper just off Icefields Parkway Highway 93.

8-7-18, 1:07 PM, Yellowhead Pass – The morning had flown by. After a stop for fuel in Jasper, SPHP drove W on Yellowhead Hwy 16. Only 21 miles to the British Columbia border at Yellowhead Pass (3,760 ft.).

SPHP stopped here briefly, so Loop could stretch her legs. A small lake, Portal Lake, was nearby. A sign said there was a 20 minute return trail along Portal Lake, but Lupe didn’t take it. Greater sights were ahead.

Lupe reaches **British Colombia** at **Yellowhead Pass**.

By **Portal Lake** at **Yellowhead Pass**.

8-7-18, 1:38 PM, 72°F, Moose Lake – At the British Columbia border, Lupe also entered Mount Robson Provincial Park. Continuing W on Hwy 16, SPHP expected the sky to clear any time now, but instead the smoke was getting thicker. By the time Lupe made it to Moose Lake, it was hard to see the mountains at all.

Fortunately, there were 2 more big waterfalls ahead to look forward to along the Fraser River.

At Yellowhead Pass, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.

*Well, here we are at beautiful **Moose Lake** along Hwy 16, but it’s smokier than ever!*

8-7-18, 1:58 PM, 75°F, Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The first waterfall on the Fraser River was Overlander Falls. A trailhead was right along Hwy 16 just a mile or so before the Mount Robson Park visitor center. Lupe took a shady 10 minute trail from Hwy 16 down a series of switchbacks to the gorgeous waterfall.

Overlander Falls was only 30 feet high, but the Fraser River gushing through a narrow gap and dropping into a huge swirling pool of pale blue-green waters was an amazing sight. While relaxing by Overlander Falls, Lupe wound up making a new friend from Saskatchewan.

*10 minutes on this lovely trail will get us down to Overlander Falls!*

**Overlander Falls** is the uppermost of 2 major waterfalls on the **Fraser River**.

**Overlander Falls** isn’t as big as Sunwapta Falls or Athabasca Falls, but the color of the water and this big swirling pool are simply amazing!

*There’s always time for love and new friends!*

8-7-18, 3:16 PM, 78°F, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park – The second major waterfall along the Fraser River was only 10 miles from Overlander Falls. Rearguard Falls has its own provincial park! Once again, Lupe took a 10 or 15 minute trail from a trailhead right along Hwy 16 down to the waterfall.

Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as high as Overlander Falls, almost more of a giant rapids than a waterfall, but the breadth and strength of the water surging over it was also impressive. A sign up by the parking lot said Rearguard Falls was as far up the Fraser River as salmon were able to make it.

*Here’s the plan, SPHP! When we get down to the falls, I’ll race in and snag us one of the big salmon leaping out of the river, while you fight off the bears. Ready? Let’s do this!*

*I can almost taste that big delicious salmon already! Come on, it’s this way!*

A first glimpse of **Rearguard Falls** from the trail.

*How’s this for a snazzy walkway setup? We’re almost to Rearguard Falls now.*

**Rearguard Falls**. The air was still smoky, but the **Fraser River** was simply gorgeous!

*So beautiful! Kind of a shame there aren’t any salmon here today, though. I was really looking forward to seeing SPHP fend off the grizzly bears, while I nabbed us dinner!*

8-7-18, 5:06 PM, Goat River, British Columbia – After leaving Rearguard Falls, it hadn’t been much farther to the junction with Yellowhead South Hwy 5. Nearly all the traffic went that way, heading for Kamloops. Lupe and SPHP stayed on Yellowhead Hwy 16 going NW following the wide Fraser River valley.

The Fraser River was seldom in view, but this was now a most relaxing drive with virtually no traffic. Loopster was well past McBride, the only community of any significant size, when, after crossing a bridge, a short side road led down to a rest area and picnic ground by the Goat River. This was a beautiful spot Lupe had been to once before in 2016.

It wasn’t quite time to eat yet, but the Carolina Dog was happy making a brief exploration along the river.

Lupe enjoys a drink from the **Goat River.**

The **Goat River** was considerably higher than when Lupe had stopped here in 2016.

The Goat River was a nice break, but the last one of the day. The long drive continued. Lupe went through Prince George (86°F!) and beyond, still on Yellowhead Hwy 16. The whole day, for hundreds of miles, had been smoky. If anything, the smoke was getting worse.

8-7-18, 8:43 PM, 67°F, Dry Williams Lake – Beyond Fort Fraser a pinkish-red sun sank into the murk. An eerie twilight developed. The smoke was bad. Nevertheless, time to call it a day. A rest area appeared a few miles farther on at Dry Williams Lake. This would do nicely! There were picnic tables, and a mowed area where the American Dingo could romp with a view of the lake.

Lupe had gone a long way today. The day’s highlights had all involved water in some form – a glacier, waterfalls, rivers and lakes. Smoke had increasingly spoiled the mountain views, but it couldn’t last forever, could it? After dinner (not fresh salmon unfortunately), the Carolina Dog curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets to snooze and dream of crystal blue skies tomorrow.

8-8-18, 6:45 AM, 54°F, Dry Williams Lake – The sun rose as it had sunk last night, oddly colored from a murky sea of smoke where a horizon should have been. Any dreams of crystal blue skies were apparently just that – dreams. The forest fires must not be terribly far away. The G6 was covered with a layer of ash. A short stroll around the rest area to let Lupe do some sniffing, then it was time to hit the road again.

Lupe had barely left Dry Williams Lake, when upon rounding a bend in the road, a patch of blue sky was visible to the N. The end of the smoke! Conditions improved steadily. Crystal blue skies weren’t a mere dream! It took an hour and a half to drive completely out of the smoke. By then it wasn’t much farther to Houston.

A stop in Houston is traditional, perhaps even mandatory. Lupe always visits Houston’s lovely Steelhead Park. Hwy 16 goes right past it. Loop wasn’t about to miss out on Steelhead Park on this crystal blue summer day, a dream come true!

**Steelhead Park** in Houston is a piece of paradise! Come on, let’s go sniffing around. The sniffing is fantastic here!

**Steelhead Park** is supposed to be in honor of steelhead fishing, which Houston is famous for, but for me, it’s all about the flowers.

**Steelhead Park**, Houston, British Columbia

*Kind of bright out with the smoke gone.*

*Why, it’s a Dingo god! It’s OK, though, if you just keep worshiping me, SPHP!*

*There’s the steelhead pond, over there.*

*Hey, SPHP! Here’s our big chance! Not a bear in sight. I’ll go nab us a steelhead from the pond.*

*Too late! Not a single one left! Wonder if the city of Houston knows all their steelheads are gone? Either bears got ’em or people bought ’em. The pond is full of coins.*

Steelhead Park was a lovely break from the road. Lupe had a fun time sniffing among the brilliant flowers. Adventure was calling, though.

Lupe and SPHP left Steelhead Park at 9:45 AM. Less than 2 hours later, the Carolina Dog was standing on Babine Lake Road E of Smithers with her next big adventure in sight.

**Mount Astlais** (L) & **The Big Onion** (R), Babine Mountains, British Columbia 8-8-18

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park (7-31-13)

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Part 2 of Day 3, plus Day 4 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska

(Day 3, 8-2-17, noon) My how things had changed! When Lupe and SPHP got back to the Bow Glacier Falls trailhead near Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge on beautiful Bow Lake shortly before noon, the parking lot, which had been nearly vacant when the American Dingo arrived early this morning, was jam packed with vehicles. A long line was waiting to get in, and another trying to get out.

After some delay, the G6 made it out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. Only a few miles farther N at Bow Summit, SPHP made the mistake of taking the turn for Peyto Lake. The situation was the same here. No place to park, vehicles circling endlessly, and throngs of tourists everywhere.

Another delay getting back onto Hwy 93 ensued, but eventually Lupe was headed N again. It was the height of the summer tourist season. After an overcast late autumn feel to the start of the day back in Banff this morning, the sky was bright blue and temperatures were soaring. As a result, the magnificent Canadian Rockies were completely overrun.

Loopster, you were dang lucky to have Bow Glacier Falls all to yourself this morning!

The early Dingo gets the … uh, squirrel, you know, SPHP!

Apparently, that was absolutely the case. The mid-day drive N through Banff and Jasper National Parks was stunning as always, but at all the other short day hikes Lupe might have done, the story was the same. No room to park at Parker Ridge, no room at Wilcox Pass, not even a single available spot at the giant paved parking lot at the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.

Heading N through the **Canadian Rockies** on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

SPHP did manage to sneak the G6 into a couple of pullouts on the way N. Lupe got brief looks at splendid views before having to hit the road again to let someone else have a turn.

Looper at a pullout with a view across the **Sunwapta River** of the **Stutfield Glacier**, part of the **Columbia Icefield**. Photo looks SW.

Despite the crowds, SPHP thought Lupe had an ace in the hole. She would stop at her favorite secret picnic ground on the Athabasca river 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls. Due to a total lack of signage, only a few locals ever seemed to realize it was there. Everyone else roared right on by the inconspicuous turn.

When Lupe got there, SPHP was aghast. New signage! The formerly secret picnic ground wasn’t completely overrun, but it was no longer the Carolina Dog’s private preserve, either. Lupe and SPHP stopped long enough to go over to the river to take a look at the familiar lovely views, but the solitude which had been so exquisite here even on super touristy days was gone.

At the **Athabasca River** near what used to be a very private picnic ground due to a lack of signage. Unfortunately, new signs were up and the solitude Lupe used to enjoy here on previous years had vanished. Photo looks NW.

Since the Canadian Rockies were so busy on what was rapidly becoming a hot summer afternoon, SPHP decided Lupe ought to just keep going. After a quick stop for fuel and supplies in Jasper, Lupe enjoyed an air-conditioned ride W on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.

Upon reaching the British Columbia border, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park. When SPHP spotted the Overlander Falls trailhead next to the highway, no one was there. Perfect! SPHP pulled into the nearly empty parking lot.

Lupe had stopped at Overlander Falls on her 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska, too, so she knew what to expect. The main trail down to the falls is a nice, shady 10 minute stroll through the forest.

On the main trail to Overlander Falls, only a 10 minute, mostly downhill stroll away.

Last year, Lupe had visited Overlander Falls on a cloudy, drippy day. The falls had been impressive then, but in the sunshine this afternoon Overlander Falls was absolutely gorgeous! The Fraser River was an amazing pale blue color mixed with a clean, foamy white.

**Overlander Falls** was absolutely gorgeous on this sunny afternoon! Only 30 ft. high, **Overlander Falls** is one of only 2 significant waterfalls on the **Fraser River**, the other being **Rearguard Falls** farther downstream. The trailhead is located on the S side of Yellowhead Hwy 16 about 2 km E of the **Mount Robson Provincial Park** headquarters and visitor center.

Lupe was glad to see Overlander Falls again! The waterfall put out a cool, misty spray, which felt great on a hot afternoon. The torrent pouring over the falls produced a soothing continuous roar.

Lupe was glad to see **Overlander Falls** again! The falls produced a cool, misty spray which felt great on a hot afternoon.

Loop by the downstream end of the big, beautiful swirling pool of water below the falls.

Lupe had lovely Overlander Falls all to herself, but only for 10 minutes or so. Soon people were coming. Best to let them enjoy some privacy here, too. The Carolina Dog started back up the trail to the parking lot.

Enjoying a few minutes of cool, misty solitude down by Overlander Falls.

Not far from Overlander Falls, a longer side trail branches off the main trail and follows the Fraser River downstream for 2 km. The side trail stays well above the Fraser River, which isn’t even in view a good deal of the time. It ends at a road 0.5 km from Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters and visitor center.

Lupe had taken the side trail last year, but had a painful experience when she got too excited about a squirrel. A dewclaw caught on a root or branch while she was leaping about. The dewclaw had broken off, which hadn’t been much fun at all. Instead of taking the side trail, this time around Lupe let SPHP drive her to the Mount Robson Provincial Park visitor center.

Mount Robson (12,989 ft.) is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. In 2013, Lupe had taken the Berg Lake trail all the way up to Berg Lake, where she’d had a grand view of Mount Robson and the Berg and Mist Glaciers after traveling through the Valley of a Thousand Falls. That had been a truly glorious adventure, but a long, long day.

Last year, Mount Robson had been mostly hidden in clouds when Lupe dropped by the visitor center. Today the mountain soared in sunshine, highlighted against a brilliant blue sky. The sight was enough to make the American Dingo want to take the Berg Lake trail again.

Lupe drops by the Mount Robson Provincial Park visitor center to see **Mount Robson** (L), the highest mountain in the **Canadian Rockies**.

Lupe would have been willing to stay and take the Berg Lake trail all the way around to the other side of **Mount Robson** (23 km one way!). SPHP had to admit that would have been a tremendously fun thing to do, but Loop had other great adventures in store for her on this year’s grand **Dingo Vacation**!

**Mount Robson** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

From the visitor center, it was only eight miles to Lupe’s next stop at Rearguard Falls. On the way, the temperature hit a sweltering 89°F!

Like at Overlander Falls, the Rearguard Falls trailhead was right along Yellowhead Hwy 16. A 10 minute walk down a good trail brought Lupe to an extensive boardwalk system with metal railings.

Lupe on the boardwalk platform closest to **Rearguard Falls**. **Rearguard Falls** wasn’t as high as **Overlander Falls**, but being downstream, contained an even more tremendous flow.

Rearguard Falls, though not as high as Overlander Falls roughly 10 miles upstream, has great significance as the only other waterfall on the 854 mile long Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is high enough and powerful enough to be an effective barrier against nearly all migrating salmon. While a few salmon may be strong enough or lucky enough to make it over Rearguard Falls, none make it past Overlander Falls.

Few migrating salmon can make it past **Rearguard Falls**. Even those that do are ultimately blocked only 10 miles upstream by **Overlander Falls**.

Rearguard Falls was the last stop Lupe would make for a while, so she lingered as long as she could by the beautiful waterfall until SPHP said it was time to be moving on again.

*Oh, mighty interesting about the salmon getting stuck here, SPHP! Sounds pretty good! Think we can catch one? I like salmon!*

Don’t think so Looper. Not seeing any salmon here today. Maybe it’s the wrong time of year? This is a provincial park, anyway. I’m pretty sure they wouldn’t be too happy with us feasting on the salmon here.

The beautiful Fraser River immediately downstream of **Rearguard Falls**.

Lupe and SPHP went on, continuing W on Yellowhead Hwy 16. Soon after leaving Rearguard Falls, Hwy 5 branched off going S to Kamloops. Nearly all the traffic went that way. Lupe stayed on Hwy 16 following the Fraser River valley toward Prince George.

The Carolina Dog barked at cows and horses as she cruised by occasional green fields scattered among the forest. The Fraser River was seldom in view. The valley was miles wide, and bordered by high mountains on both sides. The mountains to the NE were closest. They weren’t as spectacular as Mount Robson, but were still very scenic.

Gradually the fields with their cows and horses disappeared. Forests lined the highway. Lupe calmed down and relaxed. The late afternoon heat faded to a comfortable level. The busy crowds had vanished. SPHP owned the road, driving with the windows partially down to let fresh air swirl through. As mile after gorgeous mile went by, the drive took on a peaceful, dream-like quality. The G6 hummed steadily NW.

It was evening, when a sign came into view. It was a big new sign where a year ago there had only been a small one. “Ancient Forest”. Well, why not? A huge, wide, short gravel road led up a hillside to an enormous gravel parking lot. Everything was new. The immediate area had been stripped of trees. At one end of the parking lot were two picnic tables and a couple of outhouses. That was it for facilities.

Lupe arrives at the Ancient Forest along Yellowhead Hwy 16, about 70 miles SE of Prince George, British Columbia.

A guy with a bicycle was using one of the picnic tables. Only one pickup truck was parked in the absurdly gigantic parking lot. No one else was in sight. Lupe and SPHP got out for a look around.

A few signs were posted near a registry at the start of a boardwalk trail leading into the forest. The signs said this area was a rare ancient inland rainforest. Huge western redcedars, many over 1,000 years old, and some over 2,000 years old are the dominant tree. A map showed a trail system with two loops and a couple of spurs.

One of the signs at the registration station near the start of the loop trails leading into the Ancient Forest.

Several vehicles came and went while SPHP read the signs. The occupants were only interested in using the outhouses. No one else came to explore a trail, or even glance at what the Ancient Forest was all about.

The Ancient Forest seemed quite different from Lupe’s usual adventures, but she was here now, and Loopster was certainly ready for action. SPHP registered for her, and the American Dingo set out on the handi-cap accessible boardwalk leading into the rainforest. (7:43 PM, 70°F)

Lupe enters the **Ancient Forest** of western redcedars on the handi-cap accessible boardwalk.

The ancient western redcedars were enormous! The redcedars stood straight and tall with few branches until high above the ground. Most branches seemed pathetically small for the size of the trees. Clumps of moss clung to the tree trunks. The forest floor was covered with ferns, plants with huge leaves, and more moss.

Moss clung to the trunks of the ancient western redcedars. These trees were enormous – straight and tall, with few branches until high above the ground.

The level handi-cap accessible “universal” boardwalk was on supports keeping it several feet above the forest floor, and had railings on both sides. Lupe followed it all the way to a promised viewpoint at its far end, a distance of several hundred meters. The “viewpoint” turned out to be just another spot in the forest like any other, except that a foot trail left the boardwalk and continued on from here.

The foot trail was the E end of a much longer trail that crosses a small creek nearby before gaining more than 3,800 feet (1,169 m) of elevation on its way up to a high point in the subalpine on Driscoll Ridge. The 8.1 mile (15.5 km) long Driscoll Ridge trail ultimately loops back down to Yellowhead Hwy 16 at a point 3 miles (5 km) W of the Ancient Forest trailhead.

Well, Lupe certainly didn’t have time to do all that this evening, so she turned around and went back to where the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop of the Ancient Forest trail system left the handi-cap accessible trail.

On the handicap-accessible “universal” trail heading back to where the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop leaves it.

Once off the handicap-accessible trail, Lupe headed for Tree Beard. The loop trail was still raised boardwalk, but it wasn’t nearly as high above the forest floor as on the universal trail, and now there were low steps and no railings. Most of the boardwalk was covered with a shingle-like material for better traction. The trail gained elevation at a moderate pace as it went up the slope leading to Tree Beard.

Maps like this one were posted at several points along the Ancient Forest loop trails.

Tree Beard was a particularly large, ancient western redcedar, and still very much alive. Nearly all its spindly little branches were way, way up above the ground.

Lupe next to Tree Beard, a particularly large, ancient western redcedar.

Lupe’s next stop was the waterfall. The waterfall was located at the end of a spur off the main loop trail. This was the high point of the whole Ancient Forest trail system, some 343 feet (104 m) above the trailhead.

The pretty waterfall flowed down green moss-covered rocks, but was sort of small. After seeing Overlander Falls and Rearguard Falls earlier in the day, the Carolina Dog wasn’t particularly impressed. Of course, the waterfall might be more impressive at other times of year. Perhaps this was the dry season? For a rainforest, everything seemed very dry.

The pretty waterfall at the high point of the Ancient Forest trail system.

Lupe returned to the main Waterfall/Tree Beard loop and continued on through the prehistoric forest.

This Ancient Forest really is cool, don’t you think, Looper? Seems like a place where you could meet a dinosaur!

A dinosaur! In Canada? Not too likely, SPHP. Haven’t seen a single one since we got here. In fact, I really can’t remember the last time I saw one anywhere. Dinosaurs are pretty scarce these days.

True enough. Maybe a bear, then. You saw bears in Canada last year, remember?

Oh yeah! A bear would be exciting! Maybe we’ll see a bear?

Lupe keeping an eye out for bears, and maybe even dinosaurs! Who knew what might lurk in the Ancient Forest?

When Lupe reached the Gold-Dust Tree, she found the tree had taken the unusual step of posting a sign boasting about the view it had of a distant mountain named Mount Sir Alexander (10,745 ft.). The sign said Mount Sir Alexander had been climbed only a few times, though the Gold-Dust Tree didn’t claim to have done it.

The sign posted by the Gold-Dust Tree about **Mount Sir Alexander**.

This was all quite interesting to a peakbagging Carolina Dog. She was fortunate enough to be here on a clear day when she could actually see the real Mount Sir Alexander, too. It was an impressive peak, glistening with glaciers just as the Gold-Dust Tree claimed.

Lupe was disappointed, though, to see that the mountain appeared well beyond SPHP’s peakbagging capabilities. That being the case, she knew she wouldn’t ever get to climb Mount Sir Alexander herself, either.

**Mount Sir Alexander** was an impressive peak, but Lupe could see that SPHP would never make it up something like that. Sadly, that meant she would never get to climb it, either. Photo looks NE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Apparently, the sight of Mount Sir Alexander had gotten Lupe thinking.

You know what, SPHP? This Ancient Forest would be a great place to come to on a cloudy wet day. It wouldn’t be worth climbing any mountains on a day like that, because you wouldn’t see anything anyway, but the Ancient Forest would be fantastic! All drippy, misty, foggy and spooky-like! Makes me feel all scary and wild and ferocious just thinking about it!

Hah! Great idea, Loopster! Makes me wish it was all misty, drippy, and foggy right now!

I’d be the top predator, the most ferocious Dingo in the Ancient Forest! I’d go roaming and prowling among these monstrous trees on the hunt, ripping apart and devouring everything and anything I came to. Most fun ever! You could come with, SPHP, and help out. It’s always smart to hunt in packs, you know.

Maybe. I dunno know, Loop, we might run into Big Claw!

Big Claw? Who’s that?

Oh, don’t you remember fighting Big Paw on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state? That was a rain forest, too. Down there, they had Big Paw, and he almost got the best of you. Up here, they probably have Big Claw, maybe a massive bear or something like that. Perhaps a giant grizzly! Big Paw was bad enough. You might not survive an encounter with Big Claw!

Lupe glanced around the forest, ears pricked up, nose twitching.

Big Claw wouldn’t be here on a day like today, do you think, SPHP?

Not entirely certain about that, Loop. I don’t see any ripe berries around, so probably not, but who knows? Best to stay alert. Don’t go wandering off.

Maybe we should get out of here before it gets dark, SPHP. Let’s keep going and see what’s next.

What was next was the Radies Tree, another huge western redcedar. The tree was named after Dave Radies, a graduate student at the University of Northern British Columbia, who had noticed in 2005 that trees in this area were marked for logging. Mr. Radies alerted the public, which led to the preservation of the Ancient Forest.

A few hundred feet (100 m) beyond the Radies Tree, Lupe came to a trail junction. She could take a shortcut back to the G6 completing the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop, or explore the Big Tree loop.

The Big Tree loop was the smaller of the two loops. It wouldn’t take much longer to check it out, too. There was still plenty of light out, and exploring the lonely Ancient Forest was pretty fun. Loop decided she’d like to see Big Tree.

Big Tree was a monster so large SPHP couldn’t even get a decent photo of it. A short side trail went to a platform right at the base of the tree. To get to the platform, Lupe had to pass beneath a huge tree that had fallen over. That fallen tree was mighty cool, too.

Having seen Big Tree, it was time to head back to the G6. Most of the return trip was an easy, downhill stroll on the boardwalk. Lupe never did see Big Claw, nor Medium Claw, Small Claw, or Tiny Claw, either for that matter.

Although forest was already getting gloomy, it was quite light out despite the late hour when Lupe and SPHP emerged from the Ancient Forest back at the huge, open parking lot (9:44 PM). The guy with the bicycle was gone. Only one other vehicle was around, a pickup with a camper which appeared intent on spending the night parked way down at the far end. Good idea. Lupe would spent the night here, too.

(Day 4, 8-3-17) Early, very early. The Big Dipper was so bright in the night sky, SPHP could see it without glasses, which was saying something. Later, a single bright spot appeared near the horizon. Must be Venus. Dawn was coming. Up at 5:48 AM, SPHP made use of one of the picnic tables, while Lupe sniffed around close by. Soon she was on Yellowhead Hwy 16 again, heading W for Prince George.

Prince George was only 65 miles (104 km) from Ancient Forest, so it was still early when Lupe arrived. SPHP fueled up the G6, then discovered that Save on Food didn’t even open until 8:00 AM, which seemed crazy. It was such a long way to the next substantial town, however, it was best to wait. Shortly after 8:00 AM, Lupe was on her way again, the G6 stocked with fresh provisions.

Loop and SPHP headed N out of Prince George on Hwy 97. The Carolina Dog enjoyed lapping up newly acquired chocolate milk, as she watched the scenery go by. Lupe had lots of nice breaks from the G6 yesterday, so this was going to be a travel day, spent mainly making tracks N. Even so, there would be a few stops along the way.

Looking at maps, SPHP had gotten the idea that it might be fun to see the Parsnip Reach of Williston Lake. This involved a 19 mile (30 km) side trip (one way) on Hwy 39 to Mackenzie, which according to SPHP’s wholly inadequate and deceptive maps appeared to be on the lake. No doubt the lake wasn’t too far away, but despite driving through the entire length of Mackenzie, and several miles past it on a dusty gravel road, Williston Lake refused to appear.

Driving back through Mackenzie again, SPHP saw no signs indicating how one might obtain lake access. Fiddlesticks! However, there was one strange thing Lupe might have a look at in Mackenzie. A gigantic yellow machine sat next to Hwy 39 right at the edge of town. Lupe stopped by to see what it was.

The yellow monster turned out to be “The World’s Largest Tree Crusher“. The electrically powered tree crusher had arrived at Kennedy Siding, wherever that was, in late 1964. Plagued with problems, it saw use in 1965 clearing 2,590 acres of forest, but apparently little actual use for its intended purpose after that. Now it was a tourist attraction.

Lupe visits “The World’s Largest Tree Crusher” in Mackenzie, British Columbia.

It’s a mighty odd tourist attraction, Loop. How many people make travel plans to see a giant tree crusher, anyway?

You did.

I did not! This is purely accidental. We came here to see Williston Lake, and found this beastly behemoth instead. No doubt it’s an engineering feat of sorts, although the sign says it had lots of problems, but it’s kind of a nightmarish thing, isn’t it? Can you imagine this metal monster smashing down entire forests, leaving an indiscriminate wake of destruction in its path?

It does look terrifying. I’m glad it’s dead!

The World’s Largest Tree Crusher was just plain scary to think about!

Without ever catching so much as a glimpse of Williston Lake, Lupe and SPHP returned to Hwy 97 and continued N. Near Chetwynd, SPHP took Hwy 29, a shortcut to the Alaska Highway NW of Fort St. John. Lupe stopped by Moberly Lake, which looked beautiful and remote where the highway first reached it.

Lupe at the E end of **Moberly Lake** where Hwy 29 first reaches it coming from Chetwynd. Photo looks W.

Lupe and SPHP took a short walk. Moberly Lake was certainly beautiful, surrounded by low mountains. Lupe could see only part of it from here, since it was miles long. However, the lake was not as remote as it first appeared. It turned out there were recreational facilities along the S shore, and lots of homes in the community of Moberly Lake along the N shore where Hwy 29 went.

**Moberly Lake** wasn’t as remote as it first appeared, but was beautiful nevertheless. Lupe discovered there were recreational facilities along the S shore. The community of Moberly Lake was strung out along the N shore where Hwy 29 went.

Beyond Moberly Lake, Hwy 29 eventually crossed a bridge over the Peace River, whereupon it turned NE following the Peace River valley downstream. The valley was very pretty, bordered by forested ridges on both sides, and full of fields along the river bottom After some distance, Hwy 29 climbed out of the valley to a high point where there was a rest area with a great view.

Lupe had a great view of the Peace River valley from a rest stop positioned at this high point along Hwy 29. Photo looks SW.

The Peace River with a bit of help from the telephoto lens.

The Peace River flows out of Williston Lake. Information at the rest stop showed that Lupe would have been able to access the Peace Reach of Williston Lake, if she had left Hwy 29 at Hudson’s Hope taking Canyon Drive to the W.A.C Bennett Dam. Oh well, too late now. SPHP had no intention of backtracking that far.

Looking downstream from the rest stop. Photo looks ENE.

The nice Peace River sight-seeing break at the rest stop was the last big one Lupe got all day. Hwy 29 ended at the Alaska Highway a few miles NW of Fort St. John. SPHP drove into town to gas up the G6. Then Lupe cruised N and W on the Alaska Highway the rest of the day with only a few brief stops along the way.

Dusk found Lupe W of Fort Nelson, stopped for the night at a pullout at a low spot along the Alaska Highway. A creek could be heard nearby, but this must have been a swampy area. Swarms of mosquitoes discouraged any lengthy ventures out of the G6. The world turned dark. After a bite to eat, SPHP pulled Lupe’s blankie over her, and it was off to adventures in Dingo dreamland.

Taking a brief break along the Alaska Highway somewhere between Fort St. John and Fort Nelson.

Big clouds sailed over the Alaska Highway on the way to Fort Nelson. Lupe eventually passed through rain showers, then saw a rainbow in Fort Nelson.

The Berg Lake Trail, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-30-13)

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