Peter Lougheed Provincial Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada (7-19-14)

The trailhead for the hike to Rawson Lake is at the far SE corner of Upper Kananaskis Lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada. There is a large paved parking area next to the trailhead and a picnic ground there next to the Upper Kananaskis Lake. Elevation gain to reach Rawson Lake is approximately 918 feet or 279 meters.

After a very long and wonderful day hike from Upper Kananaskis Lake to the Turbine Campground along the Maude-Lawson Trail the previous day, Lupe and SPHP got off to a very slow start this morning. The wind was gusting across Upper Kananaskis Lake creating whitecaps, and it was much cooler than the previous day. There were occasional rain showers. The air was clear of the smoky haze that had been present the day before. It was Saturday and throngs of people were arriving despite the wet weather.

Lupe and SPHP had a very late breakfast. SPHP repacked and rearranged the gear in the G6. The wind and rains continued. Lots of people in rain gear came and went. SPHP was kind of spent after the long trek to Turbine Campground and felt lethargic. Lupe was fine with a lazy day too. Lupe and SPHP dozed in the G6 for hours. It was late afternoon by the time SPHP woke up again. The parking lot had been full earlier, but was now emptying out fast. The rain had stopped, although it was still quite breezy by Upper Kananaskis Lake.

Finally SPHP was ready for action again. There was plenty of time for Lupe to take the trail to Rawson Lake! Lupe and SPHP started heading W on the circuit trail around Upper Kananaskis Lake from the SE corner of the lake. Two days before, when Lupe had first arrived at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Lupe and SPHP had gone as far as the waterfall on Sarrail Creek on this same trail. This time Lupe and SPHP carefully crossed the wet three log “bridge” across the creek and went onward.

Soon after crossing Sarrail Creek, Lupe reached the junction with the Rawson Lake trail, which was 1.4 km from the parking lot. The trail along Upper Kananaskis Lake had been very easy with little elevation change. The 2.7 km Rawson Lake trail, however, climbed steadily nearly all the way to Rawson Lake. Until Lupe was halfway up the Rawson Lake trail, there was a steady stream of hikers coming back down from Rawson Lake. After halfway though, Lupe met no one.

One group of hikers told SPHP that there had been over 100 people up at Rawson Lake when they’d first arrived there. Many people had been fishing. Nearly all of them reported catching cutthroat trout. It was all catch and release, and the fish were pretty small. The most interesting report was from three guys who said they had seen two grizzly bears at Rawson Lake. One of the grizzlies got within 20 feet of them before passing on by. One of the guys said it was the first time he had ever released the safety latch on his bear spray.

When Lupe arrived at Rawson Lake no one was there. SPHP couldn’t help but smile at the thought of all the people who had come earlier in the day when the weather was worse and had to contend with crowds. SPHP sat on a log by the shore of Rawson Lake. Lupe rested next to the log and sometimes got up on the log with SPHP. Lupe and SPHP watched fish jumping in the lake and listened to birds singing. No grizzly bears were in sight. The lake was calm, protected from the wind by Mount Sarrail (10,413 ft.). SPHP shared a Cliff bar with Lupe.

Lupe next to the log at Rawson Lake. She looks sleepy here, but she was just relaxed. On the way back the were-puppy suddenly attacked SPHP twice! — Lupe next to the log at Rawson Lake. She looks sleepy here, but she was just relaxed. On the way back a very energetic were-puppy suddenly attacked SPHP twice!

Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta Canada. The mountain is Mount Sarrail. — Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta Canada 7-19-14. The mountain is Mount Sarrail.

After 30+ peaceful minutes of unbroken solitude at tranquil Rawson Lake, Lupe and SPHP left and headed back down the trail. The were-puppy attacked SPHP a couple of times not far from Rawson Lake, and nearly knocked SPHP down once. Lupe was having a great time! Lupe and SPHP saw no one until nearly back to the parking lot. Upon reaching the parking lot, SPHP ditched the backpack in the G6 and got a drink. Then Lupe and SPHP went back to a bench along the trail not far from the parking lot which had a view of Upper Kananaskis Lake.

Another day ended with a gray sunset at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada. 7-19-14

Together Lupe and SPHP sat on the bench, listened to the waves on the shore, and watched the sun disappear behind the clouds and mountains. A cool breeze was blowing from off the lake. SPHP wrote and drank the drink. The hoped for colorful sunset never materialized. Instead everything just faded to gray. SPHP stayed there talking to and petting an appreciative Lupe until the growing darkness indicated it was time to head back to the G6.

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Upper Kananaskis Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada (7-17-14)

On the third day of Lupe’s 2014 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies & Beartooths, she woke up in Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada. SPHP was disappointed to see that it was still smoky out. Although the area was gorgeous, the heat and bugs hadn’t been much fun on the previous day’s hike to Bertha Lake either. Lupe and SPHP had breakfast at a picnic table near Upper Waterton Lake. After breakfast there was a stroll along the beach admiring the lake. The lake was fabulous, but it looked like another hot, smoky day was on its way.

SPHP was in the mood to head farther N. Heat, bugs, smoke and lots of people around wasn’t really what Lupe & SPHP were after. So after the stroll along the beach, Lupe bid farewell to Upper Waterton Lake. Back in the G6, Lupe and SPHP headed N on Hwy 6 to Pincher Creek. After a short jog to the W on Hwy 3, there was a beautiful drive N on Hwy 22 to Longview. From Longview, SPHP drove SW on Hwy 542 to Hwy 40. There were lots of cows in this area and Lupe was delighted to have the opportunity to conduct a dingo-satisfying barking frenzy.

SPHP turned N on Hwy 40, a wonderful drive through big mountains. SPHP had forgotten to get water before leaving Waterton Park and stopped at several places along Hwy 40, but none of them had water. Hwy 40 climbed up and over a pass into Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. With no clear destination in mind, SPHP decided to check out the Kananaskis Lakes area. Maybe there would be water? Soon Lupe was at Upper Kananaskis Lake. There were lots of people around here too, but not so many as at Waterton Lakes. SPHP was impressed enough to want to do a bit of exploring.

Lupe’s first exploration at Upper Kananaskis Lake was along a trail above the S shore heading W from the SE corner of the lake. Although the day had been bright and sunny earlier (it hit 84 °F according to the G6), Lupe and SPHP didn’t get very far along the trail before encountering intermittent rain and thunder. Lots of people suddenly appeared on the trail heading back towards the parking lot. Lupe got as far as a waterfall where the bridge across Sarrail Creek was out, if there had ever been one. Three large, wet and slippery looking logs at varying levels served as the only bridge across the stream.

Lupe stopped at this waterfall near the S shore of Upper Kananaskis Lake. The stream comes down from Rawson Lake, which Lupe visited 2 days later.

Other people were having no difficulty negotiating the logs across the stream, but SPHP decided against having Lupe try it. The weather was deteriorating and everyone else was heading back to the parking lot. Lupe and SPHP retreated to the parking lot, too. Lupe took a nap in the G6 while SPHP wrote. It rained on and off. It even hailed a bit, but the hail was small and didn’t last long. Eventually the rain stopped, and it became sunny and breezy out, although there were still quite a few clouds around.

The rain had temporarily cleared the smoky haze out of the air, and the evening was shaping up to be cool and pleasant. Lupe had snoozed enough and was ready for another exploration. The trail she had been on earlier was part of a trail that circumnavigates Upper Kananaskis Lake. This time Lupe and SPHP took the trail in the opposite direction, heading NW along the NE shore. To get to this portion of the trail, Lupe had to cross a dam. (Although Upper Kananaskis Lake is a natural lake, the level has been raised by the construction of two dams.) She picked up the trail on the other side of the dam and continued along the NE shore of Upper Kananaskis Lake.

Looking back to the SE from the trail on the NE shore of Upper Kananaskis Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada

There were lots of great viewpoints along the trail, which was typically elevated 10 – 40 feet above the lake. After crossing the 1st dam, Lupe met no one at all on the entire trail, which was puzzling to SPHP until Lupe neared the 2nd dam. Lupe had already traversed about 4.0 km of the 4.2 km between the dams, when suddenly she could go no further. On a steep slope 40 feet above the lake, a 30 foot section had caved in. The area was taped off and marked as closed. There was no way to continue, so Lupe and SPHP turned around and again got to enjoy a private stroll back to the first dam.

Sunlight breaks through the clouds to shine on Upper Kananaskis Lake.

SPHP liked Upper Kananaskis Lake so much that Lupe got to spend several more days in the area. She went on two fabulous daylong expeditions while in the area. One was on the Maude-Lawson Lakes trail to the Turbine Campground where she saw three grizzly bears. The other was to Three Isle Lake and South Kananaskis Pass where she crossed into British Columbia from Alberta. Oh, and yes, there was drinking water available in campgrounds near Upper Kananaskis Lake – there was even a shower house!

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Three Isle Lake & South Kananaskis Pass, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada (7-20-14)

Two days prior to this adventure Lupe had a fabulous day going from Upper Kananaskis Lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park to the Turbine Campground along the Maude-Lawson Lakes Trail. Although Lupe never made it as far as Maude Lake or North Kananaskis Pass, SPHP still had plans to for Lupe to make an attempt at reaching South Kananaskis Pass via Three Isle Lake. Lupe set out for South Kananaskis Pass at 7:30 AM this morning from the same North Interlakes Day Use trailhead at the NE corner of Upper Kananaskis Lake.

The wind had died down to just a little breeze overnight, and the skies were finally clear of all of the smoky haze that had been around since before Lupe got to the Rockies. By leaving so early in the morning, Lupe and SPHP seemed to have gotten the jump on everyone else. There was no activity at the trailhead and no one on the trail. Lupe again started out on the Upper Kananaskis Lake trail heading W above the N shore of the lake. At 2.1 km, she took the Three Isle Lake trail to the Forks Campground. She was having a great time sniffing around and exploring.

Upper Kananaskis Lake looking W from near the North Interlakes Day Use trailhead.

Lupe started seeing people after reaching the bridge over the Upper Kananaskis River. By then she was already getting close to the Forks Campground about 7.1 km from the trailhead. This time, instead of taking the Maude-Lawson Lakes trail at Forks, Lupe stayed on the Three Isle Lake trail.

Beyond Forks Campground, at first the Three Isle Lake trail continued to be nearly level. Soon that changed, however, and the trail gradually started climbing more and more steeply. Pretty soon Lupe and SPHP were starting a steep climb up a headwall blocking the way to the W. At its steepest part there was a stairway on the trail with a big chain anchored in the ground next to it for something to hang on to. Lupe didn’t need it, but SPHP was happy it was there.

After the stairway was a steep section with loose rock on the trail. A cliff was close by just below, so it was important not to slip and slide too far. Gradually the trail started leveling out again. After reaching the top of the headwall, Lupe followed the trail W down to Three Isle Lake.

Lupe at the SE end of Three Isle Lake. Photo looks WSW.

Three Isle Lake is a beautiful alpine lake, although it wasn’t as pretty as it might have been when Lupe arrived since the water level was well below full. The N side of the lake was mostly forested. The S side was more barren. There were gorgeous snow-capped mountains all around. Although it had been a bright morning, it was cool and mostly cloudy at Three Isle Lake.

Lupe and SPHP went and sat on a rock above the SE shore of the lake to admire the view. Soon an interpretive guide employed by British Columbia came along and hailed SPHP. The interpretive guide said he was on the Alberta side of the border just familiarizing himself with the trails, and offered to answer any questions, etc. Lupe had none, but SPHP was interested in taking a peek at his very nice detailed map of the region.

The interpretive guide’s map confirmed that it wasn’t too far from Three Isle Lake to South Kananaskis Pass. The Three Isle Lake trail Lupe had been following continued through the forest on the N side of the lake. It gradually turned NW and headed on up to the pass, which was only a couple of km from the E end of Three Isle Lake. A much smaller lake, Beatty Lake, was another couple of km farther beyond the pass.

Once the interpretive guide had moved on, Lupe and SPHP went back to the Three Isle Lake trail. Lupe turned W making for South Kananaskis Pass. Although SPHP lost the trail briefly at Three Isle Lake Campground, Lupe soon found it again. Before long, Lupe was at South Kananaskis Pass. A sign there indicated Lupe had reached British Columbia. From the pass was a view to the NW of a wonderfully green open valley with high mountains beyond.

After 10 minutes at the pass, Lupe went on into British Columbia. SPHP intended to go all the way to Beatty Lake, but had already foolishly forgotten exactly how far away it was from the pass. SPHP hiked 1.5 km, but didn’t come to it. Lupe was more interested in marmots and offered little help. Of course, coming from the pass, Lupe was losing elevation steadily. When SPHP came over a little ridge and saw another elevation drop, but no lake ahead, SPHP decided Lupe had gone far enough.

Lupe at the turn around point in British Columbia. Photo looks SE back up towards South Kananaskis Pass. — Lupe in British Columbia. Photo looks SE back up towards South Kananaskis Pass.

At the turnaround point Lupe must have been pretty close to Beatty Lake. SPHP could hear a big stream ahead that probably fed or came from the lake. Nevertheless, SPHP led Lupe back up to South Kananaskis Pass. She visited Three Isle Lake again. The trek down the headwall E of Three Isle Lake was easier, but scarier, than going up it.

Three Isle Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada

Below the headwall and just starting up the steep part of the trail, was a young man who was running up the trail. He turned out to be on a trail running race known as the “Death Run”. He was part of a relay team and had to run 38 km. Death Runner seemed glad to stop for a breather. He patted Lupe and chatted with SPHP. The name of the race he was running told SPHP pretty much all SPHP really needed to know about it.

At Forks Campground, Lupe met a woman from Canmore, who was there with her son, Tristan, who might have been 8 or 9 years old. She had made more rice than she needed to and was going to burn it, just to get rid of it. Instead she fed it to Lupe and SPHP.

SPHP stayed chatting with her so long that Death Runner came by after having gone to Three Isle Lake and turned around. Apparently Rice Lady had previously talked to Death Runner, and they started up a conversation again. Stuffed with rice, Lupe and SPHP left Forks Campground shortly after Death Runner jogged off again.

Fading to gray - sunset at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada. Photo taken at SE corner of lake near the picnic ground. — Fading to gray – sunset at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada. Photo taken at SE corner of lake near the picnic ground.

Lupe and SPHP got back to the G6 a bit before 9:00 PM. It was a short drive over to the picnic ground at the SE corner of Upper Kananaskis Lake to watch the sun set. The sunset lacked the bright colors Lupe and SPHP were hoping for. Instead, everything just faded to gray. Lupe and SPHP sat together listening to the peaceful sound of the waves lapping up on the shore of the beautiful lake.

Another glorious day spent together in the Canadian Rockies was done. Happily, more were on the way!

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