Smoke & Water – The Canadian Rockies to the Babine Mountains (8-7-18 & 8-8-18)

Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53°F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.).  Yesterday she’d had the grand good fortune to make it to the summit, but mountain climbing wasn’t on the agenda today.  This was a rest and travel day.

Not the kind of hurried, don’t stop for anything except restrooms, fuel, and food sort of travel.  The Canadian Rockies are too wonderful for that!  Although the American Dingo was going hundreds of miles, she would still have opportunities to stop at favorite places along the road.

So that was the plan.  By the time Lupe reached Jasper National Park, though, the sky was uncharacteristically hazy.  Smoke from distant forest fires dimmed normally crisp views of the mountains.

8-7-18, 9:09 AM, 58°F, Icefields Centre, Jasper National Park – Smoky, but not bad.  SPHP stopped so Lupe could see one of the Canadian Rockies’ most amazing views from the highway, the Athabasca Glacier.  The huge glacier, one of six major arms of the Columbia Icefield, has retreated a long way over the past century, but remains a must see, if one has any opportunity at all!

Of course, Lupe had seen the Athabasca Glacier before – a couple of times from an even more spectacular vantage point up by Wilcox Pass.  Despite the smoke, the view from the highway was still absolutely worthwhile.

The Athabasca Glacier is a must see attraction of the Canadian Rockies! Photo looks SW.
Mount Athabasca, one of several splendid peaks near the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SSE.
Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe and SPHP continued N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the smoky haze did not diminish.  The smoke marred views of the mountains, but didn’t interfere with sights closer by.  Waterfalls, rivers, and lakes were destined to become the focus for the day.  Luckily, the Carolina Dog was going to go right past some great ones!

8-7-18, 9:57 AM, 62°F, Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park – The first big waterfall N of the Athabasca Glacier was Sunwapta Falls.  The silt-laden Sunwapta River was running high.  A torrent of light gray water swept by an upstream island then plunged into a narrow gorge immediately downstream.

Lupe checked out the impressive scene from both a bridge over the gorge, and a chain link fence at the very brink of the falls.

Sunwapta Falls. The Sunwapta River starts at Sunwapta Pass at the S end of Jasper National Park. Meltwaters from the Athabasca Glacier contribute to the flow.
Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen Sunwapta Falls with such tremendous flow before!

8-7-18, 10:28 AM, 68°F, Athabasca River, Jasper National Park – The Sunwapta River flows into the mighty Athabasca River.  Athabasca Falls was going to be absolutely roaring today!  Before Lupe got that far, though, SPHP stopped at the American Dingo’s favorite picnic ground on the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

This choice spot right along the Athabasca River was often completely vacant several years ago when Lupe first discovered it.  For some reason there hadn’t been any signage for it along the highway.  Signage was sadly present now, but since it was still a bit early for lunch, Lupe found her picnic ground delightfully quiet again this morning.

Loop enjoyed a stroll upstream along the Athabasca River, spent some time roaming the forest looking for squirrels to bark at, and even went wading along the river’s edge.  Having skipped breakfast, SPHP had an early lunch at one of the tables overlooking the river, while catching up the trip journal.

How’s this for a view from your picnic table? There’s always squirrels in the forest, too!
I’ll stay right by the edge here, SPHP, promise! I remember that giant waterfall downstream. Not going over that! Loop in the Athabasca River.

8-7-18, 11:31 AM, 75°F, Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park – The turn to Athabasca Falls was only 5 miles N of the picnic ground.  This close to noon on a lovely day in early August, Athabasca Falls was teeming with tourists.  Justifiably so.  Lupe and SPHP played tourist, too.  It was a wait your turn at the viewpoints situation, but totally worth it.

Lupe liked all the activity!  People smiled at her, children petted her, plenty of other doggie tourists were available to sniff with, and, of course, there was that enormously powerful waterfall to admire.

Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park.
Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park.
Even if you have to wait in line, just do it! Athabasca Falls is so impressive!
Athabasca Falls is 20 miles S of Jasper just off Icefields Parkway Highway 93.

8-7-18, 1:07 PM, Yellowhead Pass – The morning had flown by.  After a stop for fuel in Jasper, SPHP drove W on Yellowhead Hwy 16.  Only 21 miles to the British Columbia border at Yellowhead Pass (3,760 ft.).

SPHP stopped here briefly, so Loop could stretch her legs.  A small lake, Portal Lake, was nearby.  A sign said there was a 20 minute return trail along Portal Lake, but Lupe didn’t take it.  Greater sights were ahead.

Lupe reaches British Colombia at Yellowhead Pass.
By Portal Lake at Yellowhead Pass.

8-7-18, 1:38 PM, 72°F, Moose Lake – At the British Columbia border, Lupe also entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.  Continuing W on Hwy 16, SPHP expected the sky to clear any time now, but instead the smoke was getting thicker.  By the time Lupe made it to Moose Lake, it was hard to see the mountains at all.

Fortunately, there were 2 more big waterfalls ahead to look forward to along the Fraser River.

At Yellowhead Pass, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.
Well, here we are at beautiful Moose Lake along Hwy 16, but it’s smokier than ever!

8-7-18, 1:58 PM, 75°F, Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The first waterfall on the Fraser River was Overlander Falls.  A trailhead was right along Hwy 16 just a mile or so before the Mount Robson Park visitor center.  Lupe took a shady 10 minute trail from Hwy 16 down a series of switchbacks to the gorgeous waterfall.

Overlander Falls was only 30 feet high, but the Fraser River gushing through a narrow gap and dropping into a huge swirling pool of pale blue-green waters was an amazing sight.  While relaxing by Overlander Falls, Lupe wound up making a new friend from Saskatchewan.

10 minutes on this lovely trail will get us down to Overlander Falls!
Overlander Falls is the uppermost of 2 major waterfalls on the Fraser River.
Overlander Falls isn’t as big as Sunwapta Falls or Athabasca Falls, but the color of the water and this big swirling pool are simply amazing!
The cool spray feels great!
There’s always time for love and new friends!

8-7-18, 3:16 PM, 78°F, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park – The second major waterfall along the Fraser River was only 10 miles from Overlander Falls.  Rearguard Falls has its own provincial park!  Once again, Lupe took a 10 or 15 minute trail from a trailhead right along Hwy 16 down to the waterfall.

Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as high as Overlander Falls, almost more of a giant rapids than a waterfall, but the breadth and strength of the water surging over it was also impressive.  A sign up by the parking lot said Rearguard Falls was as far up the Fraser River as salmon were able to make it.

Here’s the plan, SPHP! When we get down to the falls, I’ll race in and snag us one of the big salmon leaping out of the river, while you fight off the bears. Ready? Let’s do this!
I can almost taste that big delicious salmon already! Come on, it’s this way!
A first glimpse of Rearguard Falls from the trail.
How’s this for a snazzy walkway setup? We’re almost to Rearguard Falls now.
Rearguard Falls. The air was still smoky, but the Fraser River was simply gorgeous!
Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River.
So beautiful! Kind of a shame there aren’t any salmon here today, though. I was really looking forward to seeing SPHP fend off the grizzly bears, while I nabbed us dinner!

8-7-18, 5:06 PM, Goat River, British Columbia – After leaving Rearguard Falls, it hadn’t been much farther to the junction with Yellowhead South Hwy 5.  Nearly all the traffic went that way, heading for Kamloops.  Lupe and SPHP stayed on Yellowhead Hwy 16 going NW following the wide Fraser River valley.

The Fraser River was seldom in view, but this was now a most relaxing drive with virtually no traffic.  Loopster was well past McBride, the only community of any significant size, when, after crossing a bridge, a short side road led down to a rest area and picnic ground by the Goat River.  This was a beautiful spot Lupe had been to once before in 2016.

It wasn’t quite time to eat yet, but the Carolina Dog was happy making a brief exploration along the river.

Lupe enjoys a drink from the Goat River.
The Goat River was considerably higher than when Lupe had stopped here in 2016.
An upstream view. Still smoky out!

The Goat River was a nice break, but the last one of the day.  The long drive continued.  Lupe went through Prince George (86°F!) and beyond, still on Yellowhead Hwy 16.  The whole day, for hundreds of miles, had been smoky.  If anything, the smoke was getting worse.

8-7-18, 8:43 PM, 67°F, Dry Williams Lake – Beyond Fort Fraser a pinkish-red sun sank into the murk.  An eerie twilight developed.  The smoke was bad.  Nevertheless, time to call it a day.  A rest area appeared a few miles farther on at Dry Williams Lake.  This would do nicely!  There were picnic tables, and a mowed area where the American Dingo could romp with a view of the lake.

Lupe had gone a long way today.  The day’s highlights had all involved water in some form – a glacier, waterfalls, rivers and lakes.  Smoke had increasingly spoiled the mountain views, but it couldn’t last forever, could it?  After dinner (not fresh salmon unfortunately), the Carolina Dog curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets to snooze and dream of crystal blue skies tomorrow.

Evening at Dry Williams Lake.

8-8-18, 6:45 AM, 54°F, Dry Williams Lake – The sun rose as it had sunk last night, oddly colored from a murky sea of smoke where a horizon should have been.  Any dreams of crystal blue skies were apparently just that – dreams.  The forest fires must not be terribly far away.  The G6 was covered with a layer of ash.  A short stroll around the rest area to let Lupe do some sniffing, then it was time to hit the road again.

Sunrise at Dry Williams Lake.

Lupe had barely left Dry Williams Lake, when upon rounding a bend in the road, a patch of blue sky was visible to the N.  The end of the smoke!  Conditions improved steadily.  Crystal blue skies weren’t a mere dream!  It took an hour and a half to drive completely out of the smoke.  By then it wasn’t much farther to Houston.

A stop in Houston is traditional, perhaps even mandatory.  Lupe always visits Houston’s lovely Steelhead Park.  Hwy 16 goes right past it.  Loop wasn’t about to miss out on Steelhead Park on this crystal blue summer day, a dream come true!

Steelhead Park in Houston is a piece of paradise! Come on, let’s go sniffing around. The sniffing is fantastic here!
Steelhead Park is supposed to be in honor of steelhead fishing, which Houston is famous for, but for me, it’s all about the flowers.
Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia
Kind of bright out with the smoke gone.
Why, it’s a Dingo god! It’s OK, though, if you just keep worshiping me, SPHP!
There’s the steelhead pond, over there.
Hey, SPHP! Here’s our big chance! Not a bear in sight. I’ll go nab us a steelhead from the pond.
Too late! Not a single one left! Wonder if the city of Houston knows all their steelheads are gone? Either bears got ’em or people bought ’em. The pond is full of coins.
Sniffs like peppermint, I bet!

Steelhead Park was a lovely break from the road.  Lupe had a fun time sniffing among the brilliant flowers.  Adventure was calling, though.

Time to leave already?

Lupe and SPHP left Steelhead Park at 9:45 AM.  Less than 2 hours later, the Carolina Dog was standing on Babine Lake Road E of Smithers with her next big adventure in sight.

Mount Astlais (L) & The Big Onion (R), Babine Mountains, British Columbia 8-8-18

Links:

Next Adventure                  Prior Adventure

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park (7-31-13)

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Day 5 (Part 2) & Day 6 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

After an overcast, drippy morning, Lupe’s excursions to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and Wilcox Pass had turned out great!  The weather had gradually cleared up as the day went on.  At mid-afternoon, as Lupe and SPHP headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 looking for the next adventure, sunny blue skies prevailed.

Why not go take a look at Sunwapta Falls?  These mighty falls contain the meltwaters of the Athabasca Glacier, which Lupe had just visited.

Well, one reason not to was that the Sunwapta Falls parking lot was packed.  It took a while for a parking spot to open up.  Lupe and SPHP went to see Sunwapta Falls along with the rest of the teeming throng.  No doubt about it, Sunwapta Falls was gorgeous.  A huge torrent of water plunged into a deep narrow gorge the Sunwapta River has carved over eons right through the rock.

Sunwapta Falls. This is upper Sunwapta Falls located near the parking lot. A trail leads downstream to a series of 3 more waterfalls in quick succession collectively known as lower Sunwapta Falls.

The bridge across the Sunwapta River below the falls was loaded with people.  More tourists lined the chain link fences along the edges of the gorge.  Lupe was lost and confused in the crowd.  Once before, Lupe had taken a trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, a series of three more waterfalls in close succession downstream.  The lower falls were equally impressive and worthwhile.

It wasn’t all that far to lower Sunwapta Falls.  Unfortunately, today that was probably a disadvantage.  The lower falls would likely be pretty busy, too.  Not nearly as crowded as the upper falls, perhaps, but still busy.  Lupe would have more fun somewhere else.  Fortunately, Lupe and SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park wasn’t that far away.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6, and continued N.

Maybe Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park is only intended for use by locals?  It’s right off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, about 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls, but there is no sign for it anywhere along the highway.  The picnic ground features only a handful of picnic tables situated right up on the E bank overlooking the Athabasca River.  Across the giant river are beautiful peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived, the picnic ground was empty.  Simply fantastic!  Lupe rushed down to cool off in the meltwater swollen Athabasca River.  She searched for squirrels in the forest, and found a few, too!  Lupe and SPHP played Dingo games.  No one came.  Lupe was free to be herself.  The American Dingo was having a blast!

Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.
Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.
Happy times - looking for squirrels.
Happy times – looking for squirrels.
Found one! There's a squirrel in this tree!
Found one! There’s a squirrel in this tree!
Glacial meltwater tastes great when your barker gets dry!
In the Athabasca River next to her favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Photo looks upstream (S).
View across the Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Not too shabby, aye?

When early evening arrived, it was time to leave the picnic ground to go take a look at Athabasca Falls.  There were still people around this very popular and impressive waterfall, but a big majority of the usual daytime crowds had by now departed.  A tremendous torrent of the combined Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers roared over the falls.

Lupe at Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada.
Mighty Athabasca Falls is located just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The falls are reached via a turn onto Highway 93A.
Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.
Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.
The frothy Athabasca River churns through the narrow gorge below the falls.

After visiting Athabasca Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to the tourist and railroad town of Jasper.  Lupe didn’t stay in Jasper long, though.  Soon Lupe and SPHP were heading NW on Yellowhead Highway No. 16 toward British Columbia.  It was a beautiful evening for a drive through the Canadian Rockies, but had been another long day, too.  As SPHP drove, the weary American Dingo snoozed on her pile of blankets and pillows.

In Mount Robson Provincial Park, SPHP stopped the G6 at a long pullout near Yellowhead Lake.  The lake was hidden by trees.  Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look.  A trail led through the forest and down a very steep bank to reach the shore of the lake.

Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.
Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.

Yellowhead Lake was gorgeous, but unfortunately, there was no trail along the shore.  After a few minutes spent down by the lake admiring the view, Lupe and SPHP scrambled back up the steep bank.  The dense forest blocked any view of the lake.  Lupe’s last brief adventure of the day was spent sniffing around in the woods near Yellowhead Lake.

Lupe and SPHP drove on, but it was getting late.  The long Canadian twilight was fading.  Day was done.  Time to stop for the night.

The next morning, Mount Fitzwilliam was in view, tall and impressive in the early light.

Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.
Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.

However, Lupe and SPHP were already beyond Mt. Fitzwilliam.  Lupe wasn’t going back.  Today was a special day.  Today Lupe was going N, hundreds of miles farther N than she had ever been before!  Most of the day would be spent traveling, but not too far ahead were two more big Canadian waterfalls Lupe could visit along the way.  The first was Overlander Falls.

Overlander Falls on the Fraser River is in Mount Robson Provincial Park, within walking distance of the park headquarters.  SPHP parked the G6 at a trailhead along Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  A sign at the trailhead displayed a simple map of the area.

This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.
This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.

Lupe was starting from the E end of the trail system, very close to Overlander Falls.  A wide, well-worn path led into the forest from the highway.  At first, the path lost elevation gradually, but as the roar of the falls grew louder, the trail started switchbacking down a steep slope.

In only 10 minutes, Lupe was at Overlander Falls.  The falls weren’t high at all, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls wasn't high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.
Overlander Falls wasn’t high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.
Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.
Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.

A plaque near the falls told the story of how Overlander Falls got its name.

This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.
This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.
Lupe at Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Canada.
Lupe at Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Canada.
The cool mist from Overlander Falls felt good!

Since most of Lupe’s day was going to be spent traveling in the G6, the 1.6 km Overlander Falls trail along the Fraser River to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters was an appealing option.  No one was around yet, and the trail would provide a peaceful, secluded path through the forest along the scenic blue green river.  Lupe could get some exercise, and SPHP would enjoy the views.  Lupe was most definitely in favor of the idea!

The Fraser River below Overlander Falls.

As it turned out, the Overlander Falls trail did not stay down near the river.  Instead, it paralleled the river mostly 40 to 80 feet above it on the forested slope.  The Fraser River was only occasionally in view.  The trail was in good condition, but didn’t look like it sees an awful lot of use, perhaps because there are trails to more dramatic destinations nearby.  (See Lupe’s fabulous hike to Mount Robson and Berg Lake in 2013 on the Berg Lake Trail!)

The Overlander Falls trail was fairly level most of the time, and an easy hike.  It passed Hogan’s camp, established way back when the railroad was being built.  The Carolina Dog was not too impressed.  Hogan’s camp now amounts to nothing more than a few rotting logs.  However, Lupe did enjoy sniffing and exploring in the forest along the trail.  She found a few squirrels to bark at, which made her day.

Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.
Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.
Fraser River from the Overlander Falls trail.

At the W end of the Overlander Falls trail, Lupe came to a road at a bridge across the Fraser River.  There was no trailhead at this end, just a small sign near the bridge pointing out the trail.  Downstream from the bridge was a bend in the Fraser River.  Lupe and SPHP went down to the river’s edge so Lupe could get a drink.

Lupe along the Fraser River. The Overlander Falls trail heads upstream from the N side of the bridge seen over the river. A small sign on the upstream side of the road at the start of the bridge is the only indication of the trail’s presence. Photo looks upstream.

Overlander Falls trail sign, Mt. Robson PP, Canada 8-4-16After the American Dingo had her drink from the Fraser River, Lupe and SPHP took the road another 0.25 km to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters on the N side of Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  Unfortunately, the sky had been clouding up.  The summit of Mt. Robson was hidden from view.

Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.
Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the Overlander Falls trail.  On the way back to the G6, tragedy struck.  Excited by a squirrel, while leaping around in the thick underbrush, Lupe got her right front dewclaw got hooked on something.  Her dewclaw snapped completely off!  It was painful and bled a little, but not much.  The wounded Carolina Dog looked to SPHP for help.

Lupe returns to the Overlander Falls trail.
Lupe in pain with a snapped off right front dewclaw looks to SPHP for help. This photo is typical of the Overlander Falls trail as it went through the deep forest near the Fraser River.

SPHP examined Lupe’s paw, kissed the terrible wound many times, and gave Lupe lots of attention.  When that didn’t cure it, SPHP carried Lupe along the trail.

Naturally, her right front paw hurt where the dewclaw had snapped off right at the base.  Lupe was certain she couldn’t go on.  Until she could.  After 15 minutes of being carted around like a sack of potatoes, at Hogan’s camp Lupe decided she could manage on her own just fine.  Back at the G6, Dr. SPHP applied anti-biotic ointment and a bandage (9:55 AM).

Lupe recuperating in the G6 with her right front paw with the snapped off dewclaw all bandaged up.

Lupe’s adventures (and misadventures) at Overlander Falls were complete.  Time to get back on the road again (10:12 AM), but only for a short stretch.  Lupe had very little chance to recuperate before reaching the trailhead for Rearguard Falls.  She did fine anyway.

This sign at the Rearguard Falls trailhead told of the end of the salmon’s struggle here in their quest to swim up the Fraser River.

The trail to Rearguard Falls wasn’t very long.  Lupe soon came to an elaborate system of walkways with metal railings near the falls.  Like Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls wasn’t all that high.  Rearguard Falls was almost more like a cascade.  It was still impressive and very beautiful.  Lupe and SPHP stayed at Rearguard Falls for close to an hour.

Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.
Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.
Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.
Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.
Rearguard Falls in Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.
Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.
Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.
Looking downstream.

Part of the reason Lupe was at Rearguard Falls so long was that other people kept coming and going.  Some of them had very fancy cameras they set up on tripods.  At the closest viewpoint next to the falls, several photographers set up their tripods in succession, each one occupying the coveted spot continuously for 15 or 20 minutes.

It didn’t matter to Lupe or SPHP how long they took.  The stunningly beautiful river, the hypnotic roar of the falls both soothing and powerful, the mountain scenery, and perfect weather made Rearguard Falls a great place to be.  Waiting for a turn at the closest viewpoint, SPHP chatted with people, while Lupe relaxed or enjoyed being admired and petted by friendly tourists.

One lady was here with her husband (who was busy with his camera and tripod at the coveted spot) and two sons.  They were from the Netherlands.  She said they had saved money for 10 years to come to Canada.  Eventually they were going to sail up the inland passage on the Pacific Ocean near the end of their trip.  They loved Canada, and were having a fabulous time!

Finally, it was Lupe’s turn at the closest spot to Rearguard Falls.  Two photos, a final lingering look, and Lupe’s time at Rearguard Falls was over (11:31 AM).

Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.
Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.

Lupe and SPHP spent nearly all the rest of the day traveling on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  Both Lupe and SPHP were farther N than they had ever been before.  Lupe was entering a whole new world!

NW of the junction with Hwy 5, traffic on Hwy 16 greatly diminished.  Almost everyone else had turned S on Hwy 5 heading for Kamloops.  Lupe was in a valley miles wide, with a wall of high mountains on each side.  Nearly all the land was forested, but at first there were some farms and fields near the highway, too.  Haystacks were abundant, but curiously, not livestock.  Lupe watched diligently for a long time, but saw only one herd of cows to bark at.

After a while, the farms and fields disappeared.  On both sides of the valley, the high mountains were getting progressively smaller and more distant.  Unbroken forest stretched in every direction as far the eye could see.  Despite being in what appeared to be a complete wilderness, no wildlife was seen except for ravens picking at roadkill.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe’s eyelids began to droop.  Soon she was snoozing, as the countless miles of endless forest went by.  To SPHP, it was all increasingly magical, to be here, at last, with Lupe in a wilderness that stretched ahead for not only hundreds, but literally thousands of miles, heading toward the unknown.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn't all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.
With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn’t all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.

Granted, what lay ahead wasn’t completely unknown.  SPHP had maps and descriptions, had seen photos online, and had a general plan for Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation adventures.  All that was helpful, necessary and informative to a degree, but only scratched the surface of the possibilities and realities in this gigantic new territory Lupe was traveling through.  And all the preparations weren’t the same as finally being here, actually seeing it all for the very first time.

The mountains were gone, replaced by distant blue ridges, by the time Lupe neared Prince George.  Lupe woke up as the G6 slowed entering the city.  Prince George turned out to be a lively and attractive city situated along the scenic Fraser River.  It was the only large town Lupe would see in all of British Columbia.  SPHP made a couple of stops for gas and groceries.

As Hwy 16 headed WNW from Prince George, farms and fields appeared again, carved out of the seemingly limitless forest.  To Lupe, the open fields meant cows and horses.  This time the Carolina Dog wasn’t disappointed.  Although most of the fields were full of haystacks and bales, Lupe did see lots of cows and horses.  She got plenty of most satisfying barking in.  Now and then she had to stop long enough to slurp up water to wet her poor overworked parched barker.

At a rest stop near Cluculz Lake, Lupe and SPHP devoured half of a whole roasted chicken purchased in Prince George, while a rain shower passed over.  Between the exciting cows and horses, and tasty roasted chicken, Lupe was very much revived.  Back on the road again, she remained awake and watchful.

The long drive was marvelously relaxing.  Lush green fields surrounded by dark forests appeared, and subsequently retreated from view.  Distant blue ridges defined the horizon.  Gray white clouds drifted across a partly sunny blue sky, trailing rain dark streaks of rain behind them.  For a long time, the G6 said it was a perfect 71°F out.

The green fields closer to Prince George gradually disappeared, swallowed by the primal forest.  Lupe passed through a few small towns of significance – Vanderhoof, Fraser Lake, and Burns Lake.  The farther Lupe went, the less traffic remained on the road.  The sun was low by the time Lupe reached Houston, a tiny, quiet community near the Bulkley River.

In Houston, right alongside Yellowhead Highway No. 16, was a very beautiful small park with a fountain, manicured lawn, and a profusion of vibrantly colored flowers.  Here Lupe and SPHP stopped to stretch their legs and admire Houston’s crown jewel, in the little time remaining while it was all still aglow in the sharply slanting rays of earth’s sinking star.

Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day's end.
Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day’s end.
Steelhead Park was full of a dazzling array of colorful flowers in perfect condition.
Lupe near the fountain.
Lupe near the fountain.
It must take an enormous amount of work to keep Steelhead Park looking so immaculately manicured. The entire park was in tip top shape!
Rainbow trout and steelheads are the same species, but live very different lives. Rainbow trout live their lives entirely in fresh water, while steelheads are anadromous, meaning they spend part of their lives in the sea.

Lupe at Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia, Canada 8-4-16And so, for now, we leave American Dingo explorer and adventurer Lupe in the little town of Houston, deep in northern British Columbia, at the end of Day 6 of her super fabulous Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation among the brilliant blossoms of Steelhead Park.

At Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia, Canada 8-4-16

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Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sunwapta & Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-28-13)

At 6:00 AM on 7-28-13, Day 19 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths & Canadian Rockies, Lupe was back at the Icefields Centre just off the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  The sun was starting to shine on the snowy peaks surrounding the Athabasca Glacier.  No one else was around.  The Icefields Centre wouldn’t open for a quite a while yet.  Even though it was statistically close to the very hottest time of year, the morning had the bright crisp feel of a day in late fall back home.  It was a chilly 32°F.  Lupe and SPHP admired the magnificent mountain scene in the early morning glow.

Dawn at Mt. Athabasca 7-28-13.
Dawn of a new day on Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.) 7-28-13.
Snow Dome and the Dome Glacier
Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) and the Dome Glacier

A couple of really big waterfalls were on Lupe’s agenda for the day.  Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  The road steadily lost elevation at a pretty good clip.  After a 15 minute drive admiring the towering mountains in every direction, the G6 descended into a bank of fog that lasted for miles.  There were road signs for Caribou crossings that added to a sense of mystery and isolation.  Lupe was farther N than she had ever been before.

Eventually the fog bank ended.  The mountains were visible again.  The road by now was only losing elevation slowly.  It was almost level.  On the right (E) side of the highway, SPHP spotted a sign for the Poboktan Creek trailhead.  SPHP turned off the highway to check it out, but had to disappoint Lupe when it turned out to be a trailhead for long distance backpacking.  Dogs, even American Dingoes and Carolina Dogs, were prohibited.

Back on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 again, it wasn’t long before SPHP drove past a restaurant on the left (W) side of the road.  Going past the restaurant, SPHP saw signs on it that said something about Sunwapta Falls.  SPHP had been watching for road signs for the Sunwapta Falls turnoff, but SPHP had either missed them or they didn’t exist.  No matter.  SPHP turned around and drove back to take the paved side road heading W to the Sunwapta Falls picnic ground and trailhead.  It wasn’t far at all to the falls and Lupe was there within just a few minutes.

Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park 7-28-13
Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park 7-28-13

The Sunwapta River starts at the Athabasca Glacier, which wasn’t that far away back where Lupe had just started her morning only a little while ago.  It was already a powerful river.  Sunwapta Falls was impressive.  The Sunwapta River is a tributary of the Athabasca River, which it would soon join not too many more miles away downstream.

SPHP casually checked the trail information and map posted near the parking lot.  There were 2 trails.  One went a long distance far beyond anything SPHP had in mind.  However, there was another shorter one going down to Lower Sunwapta Falls.  The information said Lower Sunwapta Falls actually consists of a series of 3 more waterfalls in close succession.

The hike to Lower Sunwapta Falls was supposed to be just a 1 hour round trip.  It sounded like fun.  There probably wouldn’t be that many people going to the lower falls.  Upper Sunwapta Falls was the tallest of the falls, and very conveniently right there at the parking lot.  Lupe could probably bark at squirrels along the trail to the lower falls without annoying anyone.

There was a bridge across the river just downstream of Sunwapta Falls.  Lupe and SPHP admired the falls from the bridge.  SPHP then continued on across and followed the trail on the other side.  The trail disappeared into the forest.  Lupe likes being in forests and was having a good time.  There were, indeed, a few squirrels to bark at, which she did with great enthusiasm.

However, it started becoming clear that the trail was leaving the Sunwapta River far behind.  SPHP started to suspect this was the long distance trail.  SPHP should have paid closer attention to the map back at the falls.  After following this trail for at least a mile, the Sunwapta River could barely be heard in the distance.  It was time to turn around.

Back at Sunwapta Falls again, SPHP looked around.  From the high fenced viewpoint farthest downstream was a trail following the river.  This trail was on the same side of the river as the parking lot.  It proved to be the trail that does lead down to Lower Sunwapta Falls.  It lost elevation at a pretty good clip.  Soon Lupe reached the lower falls.

Lower Sunwapta Falls
Lower Sunwapta Falls
Sunwapta River below the falls.
Sunwapta River.

The lower falls were pretty impressive and worth seeing.  The trail continued along the Sunwapta River for some distance downstream beyond the lower falls.  Lupe was having such a good time, that SPHP followed it a while longer before turning around.  The Sunwapta River became a gentler stream as it continued on its way.

Sunwapta River
Sunwapta River

Sunwapta River, Jasper NP 7-28-13When Lupe and SPHP finally got back to the G6, it was after 10:00 AM, but still only 36°F.  Things had gotten busy again.  The parking lot isn’t all that large, but cars and people were coming and going.

Leaving Sunwapta Falls behind, Lupe and SPHP got back on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 again still going N.  Very soon SPHP saw another turnout for a trail on the right (E) side of the highway.  Only one other car was at the trailhead when Lupe arrived.  A sign said the trail went to Buck and Osprey Lakes, but there were no maps or distances given.  SPHP had no idea what to expect, but it looked like an opportunity for some exploration with Lupe where there wouldn’t be too many people around.

The forest was leafy and damp.  Lupe was soon quite a soggy doggie, but she was perfectly happy with that.  Lupe didn’t have to look long to find the first lake.  A short trek led to a sign at a trail intersection.  Buck Lake was just 0.1 km straight ahead, and Osprey Lake was only 1.2 km to the left.  Lupe checked out Buck Lake first.  Buck Lake was shallow and weedy, but looked like it might be a great quiet place for ducks or other waterfowl.  Lupe went back to the intersection and took the trail to Osprey Lake.

Osprey Lake was bigger, more open, deeper and cleaner looking.  There were a couple of kayakers on it.  It appeared as though there was better access to Osprey Lake from the other side.  There were more people and kayaks over there.  There was no continuation of the trails Lupe was on along the shores of either Buck or Osprey Lake, so Lupe and SPHP just went to each lake, took a look, and headed back.  Lupe still had a great time in the wet, leafy, mossy forest.

Osprey Lake
Osprey Lake

It was a bit past 11 AM when Lupe returned to the G6.  She had already been on 3 trails this morning.  SPHP found a picnic ground on the W side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 just a short drive N from the Buck & Osprey Lakes trailhead.  This little picnic ground is now a favorite spot.  It is just off the highway, so access is super easy.  Its great attraction, though, is that it is right next to the Athabasca River with some excellent views.  Several of the picnic tables are just a few feet away from the edge of the riverbank.

After lunch, it was only 5 or 6 miles farther N on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to a left turn onto Hwy 93A, which very shortly leads to parking lots for the mighty Athabasca Falls.  By this point, the Sunwapta River has joined the Athabasca.  The flow of water over Athabasca Falls is tremendous and powerful.Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13

The Athabasca River has carved a narrow canyon right through the rock below the falls.
The Athabasca River has carved a narrow channel right through the rock below the falls.

Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca Falls, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca River, Jasper NP 7-28-13Athabasca Falls is a huge tourist attraction.  SPHP was very glad Lupe got to see it.  The falls are gorgeous and amazing.

Athabasca Falls was justifiably a very busy place.  Lupe spent a good 30 or 45 minutes there, during which time she made a few friends among the throng.  In truth, though, she probably far preferred the less dramatic and much more ordinary forest trail to Buck and Osprey Lakes.  One good chattering squirrel makes her happier than a crowd of strangers.  SPHP often feels the same way.

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Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-13)

Athabasca Falls & Miette Hot Springs, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-30-14)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.