Talkeetna Range – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Reed Lakes Trail to Lynx Peak & a View of the Bomber Glacier, Talkeetna Mountains, Alaska (8-28-17)

Day 29 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:47 AM, 37°F, Skyscraper Mountain pullout off N Palmer Willow Road near Hatcher Pass – Yesterday evening’s lucky stars kept their promise! Clear and calm. An absolutely fabulous day for the Reed Lakes trail and an attempt on mighty Lynx Peak. Lupe had promised to take care of any wildcats along the way. All SPHP had to do was manage to struggle up the mountain. If SPHP could do it, so could the American Dingo.

The turn off N Palmer Fishhook Road onto Archangel Road was only a few miles away. The G6 hit 100,000 miles on the 2.5 mile long stretch on Archangel Road to the Reed Lakes trailhead. After breakfast, paying the $5.00 daily parking fee, and final preparations, Lupe was on her way. (8:08 AM, 35°F)

Archangel Road continued across Archangel Creek from where the G6 was parked. Lupe trotted across the bridge. Archangel Road veered off to the L. Lupe kept going straight, passing few more parking spots on this side of the creek before reaching the Reed Lakes trail.

Lupe on the bridge over Archangel Creek. On the far side Archangel Road veers L. Lupe kept going straight to reach the start of the Reed Lakes Trail. Photo looks NNE.

The first part of the Reed Lakes trail was a snap. The path was wide, smooth, and level. The trail stayed W of Reed Creek, and somewhat above it. Lupe was traveling through a long valley leading toward a headwall 1.5 miles away. The valley gradually curved from N to NE.

Lupe near the start of the Reed Lakes Trail. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe had a gorgeous morning for her trek along the Reed Lakes Trail!

Approaching the headwall. The Reed Lakes Trail eventually switchbacks up to the saddle on the L where part of Reed Creek can be seen. Photo looks NE.

Shortly before reaching the headwall, Loopster came to several good wooden bridges over a couple of creeks. First she crossed Glacier Creek. Another bridge took her over Reed Creek.

Loopster checks out **Reed Creek** after crossing it.

After crossing the creeks, Lupe saw a sign about beaver ponds. The ponds were lower in the valley, not far from the base of the headwall. A side trail led down to them. Lupe stayed on the main Reed Lakes trail.

The trail began to climb steadily. Soon Lupe was ascending a series of switchbacks. The Reed Lakes trail was no longer a wide, smooth path. The switchbacks ultimately led Loop to higher ground toward the N end of the headwall.

Looking back down the **Reed Creek Valley** from partway up the headwall. The beaver ponds are below on the L. The Reed Lakes Trail starts at the far end of the valley at the foot of the mountain at Center. Photo looks SW.

Above the headwall, the terrain leveled out quite a bit. This area was wilder and rockier than the lower valley had been. At first, the trail was still a good single track easy enough to follow. The trail headed for a narrow gap about 0.25 mile away.

Above the headwall, the Reed Lakes Trail continues through rockier terrain toward the narrow gap seen ahead at Center. Photo looks NE.

As Lupe approached the narrow gap, the Reed Lakes trail disappeared. The gap was full of large boulders. Some were as big as cars or even trucks. Scrambling over the huge rocks was a time-consuming process. Underneath it all, Reed Creek could often be heard and sometimes seen.

Lupe worked her way past the boulders taking whatever route seemed expedient. Although there were few indications of where the trail was supposed to be, it was clear Looper had to get through this gap.

Approaching the narrow gap. The gap was full of large boulders. Lupe scrambled past the rocks by whatever route seemed most expedient. The Reed Lakes Trail essentially vanished in this area. Photo looks NE.

Lupe nearing the end of the gap. Photo looks ENE.

The last obstacle Lupe had to get by was a huge boulder next to Reed Creek. Once she was beyond this boulder, she had effectively made it past the gap. The Reed Creek trail reappeared, and the terrain was no longer littered with boulders. Lupe followed the trail N on the W side of Reed Creek.

This huge boulder next to **Reed Creek** was the last obstacle to getting beyond the gap. Photo looks ENE.

The Carolina Dog was now in a gorgeous mountain valley. Crystal clear Reed Creek flowed smoothly through shallow ponds in a nearly level area. Between ponds the stream rippled down gentle slopes. Lush light green vegetation grew near the creek. The lower mountain slopes were green, too, highlighted by stands of bright red plants.

After successfully getting beyond the boulder strewn gap, Lupe stands on lush ground next to **Reed Creek**.

In the gorgeous mountain valley beyond the gap. Photo looks ENE.

**Reed Creek** flows through a big pond in a level part of the valley. Photo looks E.

Beyond the level area, the Reed Creek Trail climbs to an even higher part of the valley beyond Lupe. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe and SPHP lingered in this gorgeous area before pressing on. When Lupe did continue, the trail began climbing steadily again at a moderate pace. 0.75 mile from the narrow boulder-strewn gap, Lupe reached the top of a rise. Nearby, tucked at the foot of a towering mountain, was the most exquisite lake ever!

The astonishing lake was mirror smooth. The surface displayed an amazing translucent turquoise color so clear, and so perfectly reflecting the surrounding mountains at the angle from which Lupe first glimpsed it, the lake appeared ethereal. Yet the incredible, nearly invisible lake was undeniably there, a gem among gems, a wonder among wonders!

Lupe had reached Lower Reed Lake.

Close to 3 miles from the trailhead, Lupe reaches **Lower Reed Lake**, a lake so incredibly wonderful neither Lupe nor SPHP had ever seen anything like it before. Photo looks N.

**Lower Reed Lake** was so perfect it was mirage-like, almost as if it didn’t really exist.

Lower Reed Lake was practically invisible at the angle from which Lupe first saw it, but as she followed the trail N to higher ground near the lake’s W shore, the surface became less translucent and displayed a more brilliant turquoise color.

As Lupe followed the Reed Lakes Trail N to higher ground near Lower Reed Lake’s W shore, the lake appeared less translucent and displayed a more brilliant turquoise color. Photo looks NE.

The S end of **Lower Reed Lake**. Photo looks ESE.

N end of **Lower Reed Lake**. Photo looks NNE.

The trail climbed steadily as it went past Lower Reed Lake. Beyond the lake, the terrain steepened, and the trail angled NW. Here Lupe entered a realm of waterfalls. The roaring waterfalls plunging toward Lower Reed Lake only heightened the awesome impact of the magnificent mountain display.

The Reed Lakes Trail heads up toward waterfall territory beyond Lower Reed Lake. Photo looks NW.

Looper next to a creek near the trail where she helped herself to crystal clear water.

Looking back down on **Lower Reed Lake** on the way to the waterfalls. Photo looks SE.

Getting close to one of the waterfalls. Photo looks NNW.

A better look with help from the telephoto lens.

Looking back at **Lower Reed Lake** from higher up. Photo looks SE.

*Wow! What a view, SPHP! Have you ever seen anything so beautiful as **Lower Reed Lake**?*

The last waterfall Lupe came to was the highest and most spectacular! When Loop reached the top of this waterfall, she had a final fabulous view of Lower Reed Lake from more than 300 feet above.

The last waterfall Lupe came to was the highest and most spectacular of all! Photo looks N.

The roar of the waterfall only added to the magnificent mountain scenery. Lupe saw so many splendid sights along the Reed Lakes Trail! Photo looks NE.

Looking back down on **Lower Reed Lake** from the top of the highest waterfall. This was Lupe’s last glimpse of the lower lake before continuing on to Upper Reed Lake. Photo looks SE.

Once Lupe reached the top of the highest waterfall, a more level valley again greeted her as she continued on the Reed Lakes trail toward still unseen Upper Reed Lake. At first the trail closely followed Reed Creek as it slowly turned E, but eventually was some distance N of it.

For the first time today, Lupe could see Lynx Peak (6,536 ft.). The sight was daunting. Whether the American Dingo would have to tangle with wildcats, or not, SPHP immediately feared Lupe would never make it to the top of Lynx Peak. The mountain looked more rugged and challenging than anything the Carolina Dog and SPHP were used to taking on.

May as well keep going, though. Even if Lynx Peak was a lost cause, Lupe still wanted to see Upper Reed Lake.

As the Reed Lakes Trail continued on beyond the highest waterfall, **Lynx Peak** (R) came into view for the first time. Photo looks NE.

Loopster on the Reed Lakes Trail on her way to Upper Reed Lake, which is beyond the low hills just ahead. **Lynx Peak** (L) looms in the distance. Photo looks ENE.

*So that’s **Lynx Peak** up ahead, aye, SPHP? Remember, if we run into any lynxes, let me deal with them for you!* Photo looks NE.

Upper Reed Lake isn’t much more than a mile beyond the lower lake. Lupe was perhaps a little more than 4 miles from the trailhead when the upper lake came into view. Upper Reed Lake with Lynx Peak towering beyond it was certainly an impressive sight! However, as beautiful as it was, Upper Reed Lake, though larger, didn’t seem quite as spectacular as Lower Reed Lake had been.

Lupe reaches **Upper Reed Lake**. Upper Reed Lake was certainly beautiful with **Lynx Peak** (L) towering over it, but this area was more barren than where the lower lake was. Lower Reed Lake had been even more splendid. Photo looks E.

*So far, so good, SPHP! No lynxes yet! This is a gorgeous spot. Why don’t we take a break here before continuing on to **Lynx Peak**?* Photo looks ENE.

When Lupe reached Upper Reed Lake, it was time for a break. While Lupe relaxed and had Taste of the Wild, SPHP had a bite to eat, too. A couple from Georgia, who had briefly caught up with SPHP a little before Lower Reed Lake, but had fallen behind again, soon reappeared. Upper Reed Lake was as far as they were going, so they also stopped for lunch.

A couple from Georgia were the only people Lupe met all day. They had caught up with SPHP below Lower Reed Lake, but had fallen behind again. They caught up again when Loop stopped for a break at **Upper Reed Lake**. Photo looks E.

The Georgians were friendly and kind to Lupe. Tom and SPHP chatted for a while about their vacation plans. Tom couldn’t believe Lupe was seriously contemplating climbing Lynx Peak. Unfortunately, SPHP lost the Georgian’s email address, so they will never know how it all turned out.

Tom couldn’t believe Lupe intended to climb Lynx Peak. No trail existed. How was she going to get up there? Lynx Peak looked rugged.

How, indeed? SPHP was wondering the same thing. Maybe Loopster should just forget about Lynx Peak? SPHP described to Tom what looked like the only possible route. Lupe would go up long boulder fields aiming for the lower W (L) end of a dark ridge where the mountain was solid rock. The dark ridge appeared to be partially concealing a ramp or gully just behind it. This gully might provide a steep path up to a small lone patch of snow seen high on the mountain.

Above the snow, SPHP simply didn’t know what might be possible. Lupe would still need to gain several hundred feet of elevation to reach the summit. The terrain above the snow looked very steep, but maybe the Carolina Dog could find a way to the top? Trip reports SPHP had read on Lynx Peak seemed to match up with this plan to some degree. None of the reports had mentioned any technical climbing, but it was hard to tell if this was the route others had used.

Tom was skeptical. He wasn’t the only one.

By the time the Georgians left Upper Reed Lake to head back down the trail, it was already 1:00 PM. If Lupe was going to climb Lynx Peak, she had better get on with it. A trail continued E along the N shore of Upper Reed Lake toward the base of Lynx Peak (6,536 ft.). Looper and SPHP followed this trail part way, but left it well before getting past the lake. Lanes of vegetation on the slope N of the lake appeared to offer a potentially easier start up than heading directly for the boulder fields.

Lupe begins her ascent of Lynx Peak. She has terrific view of all of **Upper Reed Lake** from here. Loop started her climb not far from the W (R) end of the lake. Photo looks SW.

The early climbing maneuver proved unhelpful. From below, it had looked like more level terrain might exist higher up. SPHP hoped Lupe would find a relatively easy route closer to Lynx Peak. The terrain did level out to a degree, but the whole area was nothing but rock. Boulder fields all the way! It would have been better to have stuck with the path down by Upper Reed Lake however far it went.

Leaving the trail along the N shore of Upper Reed Lake early proved to be a mistake. Lupe did not find any easy way over to **Lynx Peak** (Center) up here. Instead, she faced a long, slow boulder hop to get closer to the mountain. Photo looks E.

Well, it wasn’t all boulder fields all the way, but close to it. Lupe finally did come to small patches of vegetation, but nearly this entire route was simply a long, slow boulder hop. The good news was that Loop now had a better view of the steep gully or ramp leading to the patch of snow. Though steep, it did appear possible to go that way.

Getting closer! Lupe’s route to the little patch of snow is quite clear from this angle. The American Dingo would continue toward **Lynx Peak** while gaining only a little elevation. She would then climb N (L) to the base of the gully leading up to the patch of snow. Photo looks E.

**Upper Reed Lake** from the same spot. Photo looks SW.

Closer yet. The lower end of the gully leading to the snowbank is just below the high ridge on the L. The gully goes behind the dark ridge of rock seen straight up from Lupe. Photo looks E.

Looking toward Lynx Peak’s SW ridge. SPHP considered having Lupe try this ridge, but decided against it. The ridgeline appeared too rough. Photo looks SE.

Loop traveled E gaining only a little elevation. Eventually she was close enough to Lynx Peak to turn N. She headed up the slope leading to the lower end of the gully hidden by the dark ridge. The American Dingo climbed and climbed. She succeeded in reaching the start of the gully.

Having reached the gully, Lupe takes a break more than 1,200 feet above **Upper Reed Lake**. The two high points at Center are **Lower Spire (6,129 ft.)** (L) and **Higher Spire (6,135 ft.)** (R). Photo looks WSW.

The gully was even steeper and full of broken rock, but Lupe found she could continue higher. Loop managed to get above all the obstacles she encountered. The patch of snow was somewhere higher up, beyond the end of the gully, but wasn’t visible yet.

When Lupe was almost as high as the ridge separating Upper Reed Lake from the Bomber Glacier, it was time for another look around.

The ridge on the R separates Upper Reed Lake from the Bomber Glacier. **Lower Spire** (far L) and **Higher Spire** (L) are in view near the L edge. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

**Didilicama (6,100 ft.)** is the peak beyond **Upper Reed Lake**. **Lower Spire** (R of Center) and **Higher Spire** (R) are also in view. Photo looks WSW with help from the telephoto lens.

A closer look at the ridge between Lower Reed Lake (to the SW) and the Bomber Glacier (to the NE). The lowest part of this ridge is about 5,500 ft. elevation. The two high points are at 5,900 ft. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

SPHP consulted the topo map. The lowest part of the ridge separating Upper Reed Lake from the Bomber Glacier was at 5,500 feet elevation. Loop was almost even with that. She still had more than another 1,000 feet to go to the summit of Lynx Peak!

It was 4:00 PM already. 3 hours had gone by since Lupe had left Upper Reed Lake. Clearly, at the pace SPHP had been going, Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the summit and back down before dark.

Looking up the gully. Another 1,000 feet of this or possibly worse to go. Photo looks E.

So what do ya think, Looper?

Oh, it’s the same old thing! I’m all worked up about defending you from all the wildcats on Lynx Peak, but we get here and there’s nary a lynx anywhere in sight. Don’t know what I was thinking. Happens every time. We go to Caribou Mountain, and there aren’t any Caribou. Elk Mountain, no elk. Cathedral Mountain, no cathedral. Humans name things completely at random, don’t they?

Well, we can’t name every mountain Rock Mountain, that would be too confusing. So, maybe there was a lynx here once upon a time, and maybe there wasn’t. It’s still a cool name for a mountain. Anyway, that’s not what I meant to ask you. The question is, are you willing to keep going, or not? I don’t know if we will get back by dark the way things are looking.

We did see a deer on Deer Mountain once though, if I remember right.

Loop! Forget about the lynxes for a minute. Do you want to keep going to the summit of Lynx Peak even though we might not make it down by dark?

Do we have to? This mountain is kind of scary steep, don’t you think? I don’t like it much.

No, we don’t have to, but I can about guarantee we will never have this chance again. Lynx Peak is a glorious peak – higher than any other you’ve ever climbed in Alaska. Maybe we can, and maybe we can’t get to the top, but at this moment we still have the opportunity to try. Are you game or not? It’s now or never, Loop!

Oh, I suppose. I can see and sniff well enough in the dark. How are you going to manage, though, SPHP?

With the headlamp or the flashlight, if necessary. Alright then, let’s see if we can get there. Puppy, ho! Onward!

Up, up, up! Lupe led the way. SPHP was the holdup, of course, but went as fast as possible. The chute or ramp or gully, or what ever you want to call it was even steeper than before, but Loop was still making progress. Finally, SPHP paused for yet another breather. Looking around, there it was – the snowbank! Lupe was already a little above it. She’d past it a little to the N.

Still a few hundred feet to go. The views were so fearsome, even Lupe was getting nervous. She begged SPHP to stop and pet her. SPHP did, but never for more than a minute or two. Nothing had stopped the American Dingo yet. On the strength of each brief reassurance, Lupe continued higher.

Loop finally reached a ridgeline. The was Lynx Peak’s upper SW ridge. Large rocks covered with black lichens dominated the area. Fortunately Looper is a good scrambler. She climbed NE along the ridge. SPHP followed as fast as possible. The ridge wasn’t nearly as steep as what Lupe had already come up, and soon started to level out even more. The top of the mountain couldn’t be much farther away.

Loop on Lynx Peak’s upper SW ridge. The summit isn’t much farther!

Lupe reached the summit ridge. Perhaps 150 to 200 feet long, it was quite level, but rough. The highest rocks were opposite from where Lupe came up at the far N or NE end. The Carolina Dog made her way over there. She’d done it! Lupe stood on the highest rocks atop mighty Lynx Peak (6,536 ft.)!

Lupe reaches the summit of **Lynx Peak**!

*The things you have to do as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!*

Climbing **Lynx Peak (6,536 ft.)** set a new elevation record for Lupe in Alaska. In 2016, she’d climbed **Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.)**, which was her previous record. Photo looks NE.

*How’s this, SPHP? …. Nice balancing act, Loop!*

*We could call this Dingo Peak, couldn’t we, SPHP? I mean, at least there’s a Dingo here, right? Still no lynxes, ya know!*

After photos at the summit, Looper wanted to relax. She found as comfy a spot as she could to lay down. While Loop rested, SPHP surveyed the tremendous views in all directions. One of the most interesting views was looking more than 1,000 feet down on the Bomber Glacier.

A TB-29 Superfortress crashed into the **Bomber Glacier** on November 15, 1957 killing 6 of 10 crew members. The crash site is on the R. Photo looks NNW.

The Knik Arm of the Pacific Ocean off Cook Inlet could be seen far to the SW. SPHP could identify Hatch Benchmark (4,811 ft.) where Lupe had been only yesterday, as well as Government Peak (4,781 ft.).

The **Knik Arm** off Cook Inlet is seen through haze R of Center. The mountain right in front of it is **Government Peak**. **Hatch Benchmark**, where Lupe had been yesterday, is the next peak to the R of Government Peak. Much closer by on the R in the same line of sight is **Lynx Peak’s SW ridge**. Photo looks SW.

The 360° views from Lynx Peak were simply stupendous!

**Didilicama (6,100 ft.)** is at Center. The small lake on the L is an unnamed lake SW of Lower Reed Lake, which is hidden from view. Photo looks WSW.

The awesome view to the NE from **Lynx Peak**. A small portion of the **Bomber Glacier** is seen below at lower L.

Loopster relaxes on **Lynx Peak**. Photo looks W.

Unfortunately, Lupe wasn’t going to be able to rest long. A lot of time had ticked by. It was at least late, late afternoon already. Furthermore, the morning’s sunny skies had vanished. Yesterday evening’s lucky stars had kept their promise for a nice day today, but a repeat performance didn’t seem likely.

Even so, it was hard to pull oneself away from these glorious sights!

Looking NNE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Looking N, again with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood seemed a bit out of it. 4,161 feet of elevation gain from the trailhead can do that to ya! Photo looks W.

Looking ENE now with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Telephoto maxed out. No idea which peaks these might be.

Looking down on the ridge separating Upper Reed Lake from the **Bomber Glacier**. Photo looks WNW.

After her rest, Lupe sprang back to life. She was clearly feeling better. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was ready to report in from mighty Lynx Peak.

*Wow, we are really up here, aren’t we SPHP?* **Upper Reed Lake** (Center) is in view 2,300 feet below. Photo looks WSW.

*OK, that’s a wrap. Now how do we get down?*

After 30 minutes on the summit of Lynx Peak, it really was time to go. What? Something like 3 hours before the sun would set? Looked like it. Seemed like that ought to be time enough to at least get back to Upper Reed Lake. Maybe not, though. Lupe had 2,300 feet of very steep, very rocky terrain to go down. SPHP was terrible at that sort of thing.

There was only one way to go, which was back down the way Lupe had come up. Looper and SPHP started down Lynx Peak’s SW ridge. SPHP couldn’t remember exactly where to leave the ridge to begin the descent to the patch of snow. Naturally, SPHP went too far before realizing the error. Nothing to do, but climb back up. Not good. Fortunately, Lupe didn’t have to regain too much elevation.

Looper on the SW ridge. Her short rest on Lynx Peak had done her some good. She was feeling friskier.

After leaving the ridge, SPHP was awfully slow! Down, down, trying to hurry, but be careful too. Loopster was nervous as rocks clattered down the long slopes. Facing the dramatic, massive elevation loss ahead was intimidating. Lynx Peak was pushing the limits of what the Carolina Dog was willing to do. Loopster begged SPHP to stop. She wanted to be held, comforted, petted. Many times SPHP did just that, but the stops had to be brief. Time was slipping away.

Lupe went by the patch of snow again, then down the long gully. The worst was over when she reached the lower end of the gully. Looper still faced nearly 1,300 feet of elevation loss on mostly steep terrain littered with rocks and boulders. Yet what was ahead wasn’t as frightening as what Lupe had already been through. Her confidence returned.

Lupe makes it back to the bottom of the gully. She felt a lot better here. The terrain below wasn’t so frighteningly steep as higher up, although it was still a long way down to **Upper Reed Lake**. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe and SPHP left the gully heading down toward Upper Reed Lake. On and on. Light was failing. Unexpectedly, shortly before sunset, the sun briefly broke through the gray cloud cover to shine weakly on the highest portions of Lynx Peak’s SW ridge.

10 minutes later, sunlight had vanished from the ridge. A colorful sky lingered in the W, but soon faded as well. Loop continued her descent. Twilight turned black. Upper Reed Lake was gone. Everything was gone.

A colorful sky in the W soon faded to gray, then black.

SPHP paused to put on the headlamp. It was small, it was weak, but it sufficed. Lupe sniffed around in the night, returning frequently to the edge of the gloom surrounding SPHP. The long descent continued. No stars. No moon. Nothing to go by except the tiny light and the need to get lower.

Progress was super slow. Black as midnight, it was no longer possible to pick out a best route. Whatever Lupe came to, she just had to deal with. Sometimes the terrain was fairly level, sometimes surprisingly steep. Rocks and boulder fields were everywhere.

And then, from the black void, a light! The little light was red at first, and looked surprisingly far away. Lupe saw it, too! The light changed to white, and scanned the area where Lupe and SPHP were. Had to be someone else with a headlamp somewhere down by the E end of Upper Reed Lake. That someone must have seen SPHP’s headlamp. For a few minutes, the light shined right at Loop and SPHP.

Then it went out.

Onward! Whoever that had been, they were still a lot lower than where Lupe was. Slowly, slowly SPHP picked a way down. Lupe continued her explorations, sniffing the air frequently. Who knew? Lynxes might be prowling around under cover of darkness.

Half an hour later the white light reappeared. Once again it scanned the mountain to rest upon Loop and SPHP. The light came and went several times. Finally a voice.

You, OK?

Yes. Thanks for asking.

Have enough food and water?

Out of food, but plenty of water. We’re fine.

You should be down to the lake before long.

Figured we must be getting close.

Are you camped down here?

No.

Where at then?

We’re heading out. On our way to the trailhead.

Silence. Then after a moment.

Now? Seriously?

Yes. We’re fine.

OK, then. Good luck! If you don’t need anything, I’m going to sleep.

We’re good, thanks! Appreciate your concern. Sweet dreams!

It still took longer to get to Upper Reed Lake than it seemed like it should have. At last, Lupe was on relatively level ground again. She found what appeared to be a faint trail. Even so, progress remained slow. The trail had a lot of rock. SPHP suspected Lupe must be very close to the shore of the lake, so close that SPHP feared accidentally walking straight into it. The night was so pitch black, the lake couldn’t be seen at all.

Shortly after the Carolina Dog reached invisible Upper Reed Lake, it started. Rain! Oh, joy. Last night’s lucky stars had only promised one nice day. Time was up! Loopsterella had stayed too long at the ball. Her luck had just run out. SPHP stopped long enough to put on the plastic rain poncho.

The rain began as only a few scattered drops, but Loopsterella was soon enduring a steady downpour. Once past Upper Reed Lake, the trail wasn’t so rocky anymore, but muddy instead. Loopsterella prowled around in the night, while SPHP splashed along the trail.

Visibility was bad. As the rain continued, the trail became harder to discern in the headlamp’s weak glow. Sometimes there was a single track. Other times there were 2 or 3 separate tracks. Sometimes it all simply disappeared. SPHP lost the way repeatedly. Loopsterella usually found it again without having to search too long.

The sound of running water came from everywhere. Rivulets poured down the mountainsides. When the roar became louder and the trail steepened, SPHP knew Loopsterella must have made it to the waterfalls above Lower Reed Lake. The steeper trail was bad news. Despite going super slowly and carefully, SPHP began to fall. The trail was so muddy and slick, traction gave way without warning.

The first 3 times SPHP fell, no real damage was done, except that the rain poncho was becoming progressively more ripped up. By the 3rd fall, the poncho was in tatters. Only the hood kept the rest of it from falling to the ground. A dry head was better than nothing, and much better than the complete drenching poor Loopsterella was enduring. She was soaked to the bone and cold, so cold to the touch.

On the 4th fall, SPHP landed awkwardly, painfully. Wrenched back. Loopsterella offered encouragement while SPHP sat in the mud trying to shake it off. Many sweet licks did the trick. After a few minutes, SPHP managed to stand again. It hurt, but SPHP could limp slowly onward.

An eternity went by. SPHP knew only that Loopsterella was still on the trail, still moving. She must have made it past Lower Reed Lake a while ago. It inevitably had to happen, and finally did. Loopsterella reached the gap. The gap full of huge boulders. Exactly as anticipated and feared, the trail vanished. The way forward was hidden in the night. On one side Loopsterella was hemmed in by gigantic boulders. On the other, by Reed Creek.

The creek was deep here. At least waist deep on SPHP. Way over the American Dingo’s head. Try fording that? Carrying a Dingo in the rain, in the dark, with a pack, already cold, weary, and injured without even being able to see the far side? Never! SPHP searched and searched, revisiting the same spots multiple times. No route could be found around the boulders. No way across the creek. Nothing!

Loopsterella had made it around this place somehow on the way to Reed Lakes, but SPHP couldn’t remember how she’d done it. If she could get past these massive boulders, the rest of the gap would still be challenging, but not as bad as this choke point.

SPHP finally decided it might be possible to climb up the narrow space between the two largest rocks. However, whatever was on the opposite side was hidden from view. Between the rocks, a scary deep opening dropped into a pool of dark water below the boulders. If Loopsterella fell into that black hole, she might not be able to get out. SPHP might not be able to rescue her, or get out of it, either.

Not much choice. Loopsterella would need help getting past the space between the boulders. SPHP climbed partway up and got wedged into position to help her. It was awkward, at best. Encouraged to come, Loopsterella refused. No! Uh, uh. Absolutely not! SPHP came back down. She was right. In any case, certainly no chance of success without the Carolina Dog’s cooperation.

Stuck then. No way forward. Nothing to do, but wait for dawn. Who knew how many hours that would be? SPHP sat cross-legged on a small patch of wet vegetation, back propped against a rock. Loopsterella curled up on SPHP’s lap. She was totally soaked and cold, but still not shivering. Sitting wasn’t going to be good. Moving had kept the blood moving and created warmth.

The rain ended as Loopsterella and SPHP sat together. That helped, but without movement SPHP was soon shivering anyway. Cold, and getting colder! Only SPHP’s lap was warm where Loopsterella, though cold and wet herself, functioned as an effective Dingo oven.

May as well save battery life. Off went the headlamp. In total darkness, SPHP stroked Loopsterella’s wet head. The long wait began.

Was it possible? After only 20 minutes, SPHP could see a vague outline of nearby rocks. Perhaps with the headlamp off eyes were adjusting to what had seemed to be utter darkness? 5 more minutes went by. No, that wasn’t true. It actually was getting lighter out. Night was ending. Dawn was on the way!

Soon it was light enough to see a way forward. SPHP shimmied over a boulder in the stream. Beyond it were more rocks to hop across. Loopsterella made it across on her own. Piece of cake! Moving again! Such a wonderful feeling.

The boulder fields in the gap were more extensive and harder to get through than SPHP remembered. Beyond them, SPHP suddenly saw a new threat. Someone was standing on a hillside overlooking the rest of the valley. Someone sternly motionless, and strangely dressed. A foreigner wearing an old style Chinese hat and a robe – a Chinese witch!

As Loopsterella proceeded toward the witch, SPHP limped along behind staring in fascination despite a sense of dread. Who? Why? It made no sense. Loopsterella took no notice of the witch. No. Not a witch. Only an illusion. Only rocks. Other figures appeared, though not as clearly. They were all illusions, all rocks. Must be losing it.

When it got bright enough, the illusions ceased. Loopsterella seemed recharged, the night’s ordeal behind her. The rain clouds were gone. Another nice day in store. The mountains were gorgeous! SPHP was oblivious to them. Just keep moving, keep following that curly tail.

8-29-17, 9:05 AM, Reed Lakes trailhead – Still wet, too tired to eat more than a little Alpo, Loopsterella, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, climbed onto her pile of blankets and drifted off to Dingo dreamland. Thanks to SPHP’s torpid pace, at 24 hours, 57 minutes she probably held the record now for the slowest day hike ever On the Reed Lakes Trail to Lynx Peak and a View of the Bomber Glacier.

She’d made it, though, all the way to the top of Lynx Peak. And if she had instead set the record for the fastest time, it wouldn’t have been any more memorable a feat.

Evening sky over Upper Reed Lake from the lower slopes of Lynx Peak, Talkeetna Mountains, Alaska 8-28-17

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Gunsight Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-23-16)

Day 25 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Lupe wanted out twice during the night. Both times it was nice out, a hopeful sign. Dawn arrived a few hours later to dash those hopes. Steady rain beneath a drearily overcast low-ceiling sky. The forecasts were going to be right, weren’t they? Three more full days of rain before things might improve.

A little after 10:00 AM, Lupe and SPHP left Palmer on the Glen Highway (Alaska Route 1) heading E. Sad, very sad, but SPHP was resigned to it. There was no beating this endless rain on the Alaska S coast. Lupe wasn’t going to get to do any of the fun adventures around Anchorage or on the Kenai Peninsula.

The plan was to go as far as it took to get out of the rain, even if that meant going back to Canada. Lupe still had a couple of peakbagging objectives on her list not too far E of Palmer, if the rain would let up. There didn’t seem to be much hope of that. SPHP was prepared for a long drive. Lupe stared out the rain-streaked window of the G6 at the beautiful Matanuska River valley she was leaving behind.

Lupe stared out the window of the G6 at the beautiful Matanuska River valley she was leaving behind. Photo looks SE.

The rain didn’t extend nearly as far as SPHP feared. Surprisingly, by the time Lupe was nearing the Matanuska Glacier, the sky had stopped its seemingly endless dripping. The glacier was visible from the highway, so Lupe stopped for a look.

The Matanuska Glacier was visible from the Glen Highway. Photo looks SE.

Lupe along the Glen Highway with the Matanuska Glacier in the background. Photo looks SE.

Toe of the Matanuska Glacier with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SE.

Conditions improved rapidly as Lupe and SPHP continued E on the Glen Highway. That was great news! Two of Lupe’s peakbagging objectives were coming up soon.

The first was Lion Head (3,185 ft.). Lupe found the road that serves as a trailhead near milepost 106. Beyond a parking area, a closed gate was across the road. A “No Trespassing” sign said AT&T owned the property. No one allowed in without permission from AT&T. Most disappointing.

Surprising, too! SPHP had read online accounts touting the climb up Lion Head for the spectacular views of the Matanuska Glacier. None of them had mentioned an access problem. Several vehicles were parked along the road near the closed gate. Others must be making the hike. SPHP hesitated. Gunsight Mountain was another 10 or 12 miles E. Maybe Lupe should check out Gunsight instead?

Near milepost 117, Lupe and SPHP stopped at a large empty pullout on the SE side of the Glen Highway. A sign said this was the Camp Creek trailhead. Absolutely no other information was available. Not a soul was around. Gunsight Mountain loomed to the NW right across the highway.

Despite involving 3,400 feet of elevation gain, the climb up Gunsight was supposed to be easy and straightforward. Was this the trailhead for Gunsight? Except for those tall bushes low down on the mountain, the climb looked easy enough whether there was a trail or not. SPHP grabbed the backpack, crossed the highway, and Lupe was on her way! (1:29 PM, 54°F)

Five minutes after Lupe started her assault on Gunsight, SPHP was beating a retreat. Those tall bushes were an impassable jungle! There certainly didn’t seem to be any trail. Lupe had no choice, but to follow SPHP back to the G6. So far, Lupe’s day had been nothing but frustration. Another mile E, near milepost 118, her luck changed.

A green street sign read “Trailhead Access Road”. A short road on the NW side of the highway led to a large paved parking lot. A posted map showed several trails in this area, including one leading to Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.). Twenty minutes after launching her first attack on Gunsight, Lupe set out again.

An old road led to an ATV trail that climbed rather steeply at the start. Things leveled out after 200 feet of elevation gain. The ATV trail had turned N. Lupe reached an intersection where a small pond was a short distance ahead.

The ATV trail led Lupe to an intersection where this small pond was in view. The long ridge in the background is part of **Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.)**. Photo looks N.

Lupe didn’t need to go N. She turned W on another ATV trail leading toward Gunsight Mountain. A huge, colorful hillside, was ahead. The top of Gunsight Mountain appeared above it in the distance.

Lupe turns W on the ATV trail leading toward Gunsight Mountain. A huge, colorful hillside was ahead.

The ATV trail was full of big, muddy potholes, and soon gave out. A single track trail led into the bushes which dominated the landscape. It too, disintegrated before long. A bewildering maze of little trails went in all directions, appearing and disappearing in no discernible pattern. Lupe thought this was great! She could prowl around unseen until she was almost upon SPHP.

The bushes down where Lupe had made her first brief assault on Gunsight had towered over SPHP. They had strong, thick branches. Fortunately, the bushes here were only chest high on SPHP. It was possible to push through these smaller bushes along the myriad of little trails, though it was preferable to follow the occasional strips of open ground between them whenever possible.

Getting to the top of this first big hillside took a while. The climb gradually steepened along the way. On the bright side, the open ground between bushes started to dominate as Lupe gained elevation. If there was any organized trail up this long hill, Lupe never found it. During short rest stops, SPHP consumed wild blueberries, which grew in great profusion on the hillside.

By the time Lupe reached the top of the big, colorful hillside, the bushes had disappeared entirely. Only the low, delicate plants of the tundra remained. Lupe already had some fabulous views from here.

Lupe already had fabulous views from the top of the first, long, colorful hillside. Photo looks SE.

Looking SW down the Matanuska River valley.

Looking back down the long, colorful hillside toward the Gunsight Mountain trailhead near the Glenn Highway. Photo looks E.

The best route to the top from here was obvious. Lupe headed W across a broad area of fairly level tundra toward the NE ridge of the mountain. She even lost a little elevation along the way, before the climb resumed.

Lupe on her way W from the top of the long, colorful hillside toward Gunsight’s NE ridge seen on the R. She would stay on the near side of the ridge, especially as she neared the summit. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe was still on her way up toward Gunsight’s NE ridge, when suddenly there was a voice coming from above. A young woman was cheerily hailing Lupe and SPHP as she hiked down the mountain. SPHP hadn’t even seen her. Her name was Laura. She was here in Alaska visiting friends who had to work today, so she had just trotted on up to the top of Gunsight Mountain for something to do.

Laura was from Montana, which made her practically a neighbor to Lupe. She was very friendly. Was the guy following Lupe and SPHP part of the group? SPHP turned around. There was someone coming! He was still over toward the top of the long, colorful hillside, but heading this way fast. No, Lupe and SPHP had never seen him before.

Lupe with Laura from Montana. Laura had already been to the top of Gunsight Mountain. She was on her way down when she spotted Lupe and SPHP coming up.

Laura and SPHP chatted pleasantly for a few minutes, before she went onward. A few minutes later, she could be seen talking to the guy who was hot on Lupe’s trail coming up. Meanwhile, Lupe reached the NE ridge. Staying on the less steep SE side of the ridge, Lupe and SPHP continued toward the summit.

Lupe reaches the NE ridge. Photo looks SW.

Within a few hundred feet of the summit, the tundra finally gave way to a long, scree slope. During the fairly steep ascent up the scree, the guy who had been following Lupe overtook SPHP. He promised to save Lupe and SPHP good seats with a view at the top.

Lupe on the long scree slope leading to the summit. Photo looks W.

Coming up the easy, broad E slopes of Gunsight Mountain, SPHP had come under the impression that the summit might well be a large plateau, with plenty of room for Lupe to run around. However, when Lupe reached the top of the scree slope, the mountain simply ended. On the other side of the little summit ridge was a gaping chasm.

Standing out at the very end of a small, narrow prominence, surrounded on 3 sides by nothing but air, was the guy who had promised to save Lupe and SPHP good seats with a view. He stood on the brink of destruction at the chasm’s edge surveying the spectacular views, as calmly as any mountain goat might to whom it was all old hat, part of a daily humdrum routine.

His precarious position made SPHP nervous for him, but he calmly walked over to greet Lupe and introduce himself to SPHP. His name was Luke Hall. He was originally from Sidney, Australia. Luke had left Sidney 3 years ago. Since then, he’d worked for a while in Banff, Canada and London, England, and a few other places around the globe. At the moment, Luke was in the middle of an already months long trip exploring and climbing peaks in Alaska.

Lupe meets Australian globe-trotter Luke Hall at the summit of Gunsight Mountain. Photo looks SW.

Lupe at the summit. SPHP had expected some kind of broad plateau up here where Lupe could run around. Instead, Lupe arrived to find huge cliffs, chasms, and jagged knife-edge ridges. Photo looks NW.

Wow! Sounded like Luke was adventure personified! Lupe, Luke and SPHP spend 30 minutes together on Gunsight. A lot of chatting, comparing notes, and taking photos went on. Luke had been to Berg Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park in Canada. Lupe had been there on her Summer of 2013 Dingo Vacation, too. Luke and Lupe had both been to several other places, among them Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.), N of the Arctic Circle.

Luke was surprised to learn that Lupe had made it to the top of Sukakpak. He had been there a couple of weeks ago. He’d made it very high up on the mountain, but hadn’t found the route to the summit. Lupe and SPHP shared how Lupe managed to get there.

Of course, as long as Luke had already been exploring Alaska, he’d seen a lot of places Lupe hadn’t. There was so much to talk about! Fun times, but it was getting to be evening, and this was, after all, the top of a mountain in Alaska. Luke was wearing shorts. Not too surprisingly, he started getting cold standing around. He needed to get moving again, so good-byes were said, and Luke started down the mountain.

Peaks over-looking the Matanuska Glacier, portions of which are in view in the valley below. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

Looking WSW. Part of the Matanuska Glacier in view on the lower L.

Luke Hall starts down the mountain after a fun half hour with Lupe at the top. Note the actual patches of blue sky and sunshine! Photo looks ENE.

After Luke departed, Lupe and SPHP spent another 20 minutes at the summit. The views were tremendous in every direction. The day had started discouragingly, but was ending on a literal high note here with Lupe at the top of splendid Gunsight Mountain!

Looking SW along the length of **Sheep Mountain (6,223 ft.)**(R). Part of the Matanuska Glacier(L) is in view in the distance.

Sheep Mountain using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

Looking SSW. The weather was still stormy looking toward the SW.

South Fork of the Matanuska River. Photo looks SSE using the telephoto lens.

Big patches of blue sky were appearing off to the E, the first blue sky Lupe had seen in days. Trail Lake is the largest lake in view on the lower R. The Gunsight Mountain trailhead(Center) is barely above the bottom edge. Photo looks ENE.

So many mountains were in view from Gunsight! The mountains to the S were high enough to block a view of what lay beyond them. Off to the N, however, range after range could be seen receding to the horizon. This photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.

Looking over Gunsight Mountain’s summit ridge at the gaping chasm to the SW. Sheep Mountain is on the R. The Matanuska River is on the L flowing toward the more distant Matanuska Glacier. Photo looks SW.

Wondering if Lupe found the Gun survey benchmark? Here ya go!

After nearly an hour at the top, Lupe started back down the NE ridge. The evening and surroundings were incredibly beautiful. Most encouragingly, the patches of blue sky and sunshine which had started appearing on Lupe’s way up seemed to be spreading.

Lupe comes back up along the NE ridge to see what’s keeping that slowpoke SPHP. Photo looks NE.

Luke had said he was planning on going to Anchorage and the Kenai peninsula. Maybe Lupe should, too! Maybe the weather was going to improve, and Lupe wouldn’t have to miss out on all the fun that had been planned there. She was only an hour’s drive E of Palmer. Lupe could climb Lion Head tomorrow, and then return to Palmer! It was too soon to leave Alaska, if Lupe didn’t have to.

Although the plan seemed to change with each passing cloud, these happy thoughts accompanied Lupe and SPHP as they took their time on the descent. The long, colorful hill was easier descending than ascending. It was possible to see the pattern of the open areas between the bushes from above, which made it easy to avoid the worst of the bushes. Of course, Lupe thought the bushes were fun, but she didn’t mind being able to run in the open, too.

A tired, but happy American Dingo arrived back at the G6 (9:29 PM). This had turned out to be a great day after all. Maybe things were looking up. Tomorrow, Lion Head!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to New Lupe Adventures.

Skyscraper Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-22-16)

Days 22, 23 & 24 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

8-20-16, 8:00 AM. Gray, gloomy, light rain. Disappointing, but it didn’t matter too much. Lupe was at Byers Lake in Denali State Park in Alaska. She’d spent the last two days exploring fabulous K’esugi Ridge. She’d had a wonderful time, but after dragging back in to the G6 after 3:30 AM last night, both Lupe and SPHP were in real need of a rest day. Even if the skies had been crystal clear and blue, there wouldn’t have been much on the agenda today.

SPHP drove over to pay the $5.00 daily parking fee, as strongly suggested by the official pay envelope waiting on the G6’s windshield upon Lupe’s return last night. Then it was back to the parking lot. Lupe was going to get her $5.00 worth today. Time for more shuteye.

Of course, it would have been nice if the skies had cleared. Although Lupe had been in the Denali State Park area for nearly 3 days now, she still hadn’t gotten a good, clear view of Denali (20,310 ft.). She’d seen the incredibly massive white mountain from an enormous distance earlier, while still close to Fairbanks, but had only caught brief glimpses since.

Nature doesn’t care what might be nice. The clouds did not part. Not even the tiniest speck of blue sky appeared. The dreary, light rain fell sporadically all day. Lupe and SPHP mostly snoozed. Maybe tomorrow Lupe would finally get that superb view of Denali?

8-21-16, morning. See Denali? Hah! Not a chance! The sky had wept all night. Rain was still falling, steadily, and much harder than yesterday. Time to give up on the Denali Dream. Lupe was all rested up now. She had other adventures to get to! Good-bye Denali State Park. Good-bye fabulous K’esugi Ridge!

Rain poured down, as SPHP drove S on the George Parks Highway (Alaska Route 3). The truth was, nearly all of the Alaskan adventures left on Lupe’s list of possibilities were somewhere relatively close to the S coast. The coast had been socked in with rain and fog for weeks. Conditions weren’t likely to be any better along the coast than at Denali State Park. Maybe Lupe’s time in Alaska was drawing to a close?

The sky remained overcast, but the rain ended before Lupe reached Wasilla. Civilization! Lupe and SPHP shared a box of ice cream bars and a couple of cheeseburgers. SPHP killed some time at the laundromat, and taking care of a few other chores. Already 5:00 PM. This day was slipping by, too.

One adventure still seemed like a possibility. If the rain would hold off, maybe Lupe could climb Skyscraper? Less than 1,000 feet of elevation gain was required. The mountain’s summit wasn’t even a mile from Hatcher Pass, a scenic 20 or 30 minute drive NW of Palmer.

Palmer wasn’t far from Wasilla. At Fishhook Junction, a mile N of Palmer, SPHP turned W (L) off the Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1) onto Fishhook Willow Road. Fishhook Willow Road went W 2 miles then turned N following the Susitna River valley. After a sharp L turn onto Willow Creek Road, SPHP figured Lupe must be getting close to Hatcher Pass. SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout near the Fishhook Trailhead, right off Willow Creek Road.

Conditions weren’t so great. Mist was falling here. Low clouds draped over every mountain peak, threatening to unleash more serious moisture at any moment. If Lupe did make it to the top of Skyscraper Mountain, she might not see anything except fog.

However, Lupe desperately wanted to go. She’d been cooped up in the G6 for nearly 2 days now. The mountain looked only moderately steep, and appeared to be an easy climb. A maze of soft, damp trails wove among low, wet bushes toward the S spine of the mountain. Lupe and SPHP started up.

Glad to finally get out of the G6, Lupe starts up the mountain. Photo looks N.

Everything was going fine. Lupe was having a good time. She’d already gained perhaps 250 feet of elevation, when SPHP paused for a quick breather. So far, so good. Except for that view to the W. Something was wrong over there. A road snaked up the main valley into a side valley, continuing on up to a big saddle even higher than where Lupe was now. How could that be?

Mist turned to light rain, as it all sunk in. That road was the Willow Creek Road going up to Hatcher Pass. It had to be. For pity’s sake! Lupe wasn’t even climbing the right mountain. Skyscraper Mountain (4,825 ft.) was over there! No doubt about it.

Lupe at the highest point she reached on the trail up the wrong mountain. At least she had a good view of Skyscraper Mountain(Center) and Hatcher Pass(L) from here. Photo looks W.

**Skyscraper Mountain (4,825 ft.)** (Center) overlooks Willow Creek Road on its way up to Hatcher Pass. Lupe was supposed to have been climbing Skyscraper along the SW ridge seen on the L. Photo looks W.

Sheesh! SPHP had no idea where this trail Lupe was on went, how far it went, or what mountain Lupe was on. (She was on the 1.2 mile long trail up Marmot Mountain.)

Oh, well. Conditions were deteriorating anyway. May as well call it. Back to the G6! At least Lupe had some exercise and fun. As an added bonus, SPHP finally understood where Hatcher Pass and Skyscraper Mountain were.

Who knew? With a little luck, tomorrow would be a better day. Lupe might be glad her climb of Skyscraper had been postponed.

*I’m on the wrong mountain? How can that be? You’re joking, right? SPHP, you come up with the craziest notions! Maybe I’m going to have to take a firmer paw in adventure planning from now on.*

Dream on! The G6’s radio said differently. Rain continuing through tomorrow, extending into blah, blah. Enough of that! Outside the G6, the world continued dripping.

8-22-16, morning again. Still heavily overcast, but not raining. Maybe Lupe could climb Skyscraper right now, first thing? SPHP drove up to Hatcher Pass. The pass wasn’t far at all, but conditions were a lot different here. Steady rain, 52°F, a chilly breeze, and fog. Umm, no thank you! When it comes to adventure, Lupe and SPHP are fair weather friends. No need to star in a private episode of Survivor!

Civilization has its advantages. Lupe and SPHP left Hatcher Pass and drove down to Palmer. A roasted chicken was obtained and shared. Lupe gnawed on a rawhide stick for a while, then snoozed. SPHP read. Palmer was overcast, of course, but it wasn’t raining.

Early afternoon. Still no rain in Palmer. Maybe things were better by now at Hatcher Pass? Lupe and SPHP went back up there. No rain until just before reaching the pass, where nothing had changed since this morning. Aggravating. Lupe would just stay here and wait it out. Sooner or later, there had to be a break didn’t there?

Lupe poses near the Hatcher Pass monument during a brief lull in the rain. Photo looks W.

Despite the cold rain, a surprising number of people came and went. Most were well equipped with umbrellas and rain gear. Many took short walks on trails over the gently sloping tundra beyond the Hatcher Pass monument, but few remained in the area for long.

SPHP talked to a couple of guys getting back into their vehicle with Alaska plates. Did they know anything about the long range weather forecast? It was a rental car. They were Germans, but they did know something about Alaskan weather. They’d been in Alaska for 2 weeks and had been going to extremes to try to find a little sunshine.

The Germans said 3 more days of rain were in store here, then it was supposed to clear. As soon as they left Hatcher Pass, they were headed for Anchorage to fly to Nome. Nome was sunny. In 3 days, they would fly back to Anchorage. Now, there was an idea. Lupe could fly to Nome!

Perhaps SPHP lacks imagination. Flying Lupe to Nome on the spur of the moment seemed a bit extreme. No doubt a spontaneous trip to Nome would have been a grand adventure, though!

There were brief lulls, but mostly the rain went on and on. The afternoon ticked away. Lupe had been snoozing, but during a lull in the rain, she finally woke up. She just had to get out and run! Off like a shot, the Carolina Dog flew across the heather until she was a distant speck. SPHP stood in drizzle watching from afar, waiting for Lupe to tire of her big romp and return.

A couple of women walked by with 3 kids. The older woman was telling the children to be careful not to slip on the muddy trail. Moments later, the oldest child slipped and fell in the mud. She started crying. The older woman lost it, and started screaming at the girl. She was glad Michelle was hurt! It served her right for not listening and being careful. Hadn’t she just been told to be careful? Michelle wouldn’t get any help from her!

The obscenity-laden rant went on for several minutes while Michelle cried. The other woman at least helped her back on her feet. Michelle was what, maybe 9 – 11 years old? SPHP was on the verge of going over to have a few choice words with Cruella de Vil, when she finally shut up. The immediate crisis was over. Even so, Michelle’s problems in life were far from over, not by a long shot, if that witch was her mother.

The glorious human race! So capable of both the very best and very worst the planet has on offer. Carolina Dogs are better company – active, friendly, sensible and loyal! Speaking of which, where was Lupe? Here she came, racing back from her romp. She was eager for SPHP to join in the fun. It had only been misting lightly during Michelle’s ordeal. Might as well try Skyscraper now, before things changed.

SPHP drove down to a slightly lower pullout at the base of the informal trail up Skyscraper Mountain. Lupe could hardly wait. As soon as she was out of the G6, she took off again, racing hundreds of feet down the tundra on the other side of the road. She came right back, panting hard, and was overjoyed to see SPHP getting the pack ready.

A volley of raindrops splattered SPHP, but didn’t last long. Yes, raingear was in order. SPHP dug it out of the pack, and put on a green plastic rain poncho. Ready for another attempt. How far Lupe would get was in serious doubt, but at least she would be on the right mountain this time around. Lupe and SPHP started up the slope. (6:20 PM, 48°F)

Start of the trail up Skyscraper Mountain from the pullout along Willow Creek Road near Hatcher Pass. Photo looks N.

The longest, steepest part of the climb came right at the start. Skyscraper is one of those mountains where the top always looks only another 50 feet higher. By the time Lupe reached the first high point, she had already gained 2/3 of the total 950 feet of elevation gain required to reach the summit.

Lupe finally nears the first high point. Photo looks N.

From a rock formation at the first high point, Lupe got her first view of what lay ahead. Not far to the N, an orange windsock floated on the breeze above a broad, rounded ridge. From the windsock, Lupe would have an easy time traveling over gently rising tundra toward a couple modestly higher points along the ridge.

From the rock formation at the first high point, Lupe saw an orange windsock floating in the breeze. The ridge ahead was broad and rounded. Lupe would have an easy time traveling over the tundra here. Photo looks NNW.

From the first high point, Lupe saw two modestly higher points ahead along Skyscraper’s SW ridge. Beyond them, she could already see the S end of the summit ridge. Photo looks NNE.

Looking back, Lupe could see Summit Lake on the W side of Hatcher Pass. April Bowl and Hatch Peak (4,811 ft.) on the S side of the pass were in view, too.

Looking back the way Lupe had come, Summit Lake(R) was in view on the W side of Hatcher Pass. Hatch Peak(L) and April Bowl (where the snow is below the peak) were in view, too. Photo looks S.

Lupe checked out the orange windsock, before turning NE to start the easy stroll up toward the next couple of high points. She had a blast running around sniffing and exploring the tundra. By now, Skyscraper Mountain’s entire summit ridge was in view, including the little bump up at the N end where the true summit is located.

Lupe checks out the orange windsock. The first high point she reached is on the L. Hatch Peak(R) and April Bowl are seen in the background. Photo looks SSE.

The gentle path to the next modestly higher points. Skyscraper Mountain’s summit ridge is in view L of Center. Photo looks NE.

The path along the higher part of the SW ridge undulated from one minor high point to the next. Through the light mist, Lupe could see mountains in every direction. If it had been a clear day, the scene would have been really gorgeous. Lupe had nothing to complain about, however. She was lucky the rain was holding off for the time being.

Lupe on the undulating SW ridge. Skyscraper Mountain dead ahead! Photo looks NE.

The tundra features such amazingly brilliant little plants!

Beyond the minor high points of the SW ridge, the trail lost some elevation heading down to a saddle leading to Skyscraper’s summit ridge. Another steep climb ensued from the saddle, but it was only half as long as the first big climb had been. Soon Lupe was up at the S end of the summit ridge. The Pass survey benchmark was right there.

The Pass survey benchmark was hard to miss at the S end of Skyscraper’s summit ridge. The “P”, “A” and part of the first “S” for Pass can still be made out to the L of the center triangle.

Skyscraper’s summit ridge is nearly level until it reaches a modest bump up at the N end where the true summit is located. The ridge was much narrower than the SW ridge Lupe had come up, especially toward the N end. The true summit was only 150 yards N of the Pass survey benchmark.

Lupe was there in practically no time at all. After days of waiting, success rewarded patience! Congratulations, and the usual paw-shaking ceremony ensued.

Lupe stands atop the true summit of Skyscraper Mountain! **Marmot Mountain (4,770 ft.)** is seen beyond Lupe. SPHP believes **Microdot (4,900 ft.)** is the high point L of Center, and **The Pinnacle (5,500 ft.)** is the highest point on the far L. Photo looks NE.

Lupe on top of Skyscraper. Photo looks ENE.

Carolina Dogs are rarely seen on Skyscraper Mountain, but it does happen! Microdot is visible on the L. Photo looks NE.

Mist and drizzle had occasionally given way to light rain on the way up. Lupe was fortunate to have reached the summit of Skyscraper. Conditions might worsen at any moment, so Lupe and SPHP didn’t stay at the summit too long. There was time enough for some photos, and a good look around at what could be seen of the rugged surrounding peaks of the Talkeetna Range.

Lupe stands on a nearby high point while SPHP stands on the true summit. Skyscraper’s summit ridge extends off to the L. The SW ridge Lupe came up is visible to her R. Hatch Peak and April Bowl are in view R of Center. Photo looks S.

Looking NNE farther along the ridgeline from Skyscraper’s summit. Bullion Mountain is on the L. The Pinnacle is the highest point seen R of Center. Microdot is on the R.

Lupe once again on the summit. Photo looks SW back toward the easy SW ridge she came up.

Time to go. Lupe and SPHP started back S along the summit ridge. In the saddle between the summit ridge and the SW ridge, Lupe met two young guys from Wasilla on their way up Skyscraper. They said the weather was typical of this time of year around here.

Out of curiosity, SPHP asked them what trails/peaks they recommended Lupe save for a sunny day in the area? Reed Lakes was the immediate response. It wasn’t far from here. SPHP had heard of it. Good information. Never hurts to ask the local experts!

Looking S from the S end of Skyscraper’s summit ridge (near the Pass survey benchmark). Hatch Peak and April Bowl are on the L. Hatcher Pass is seen at Center. Skyscraper’s SW ridge leading back down to the G6 is on the R. Photo looks SSW.

A thick fog rolled in as Lupe descended the last little stretch of the steep final slope to the G6. Rain came with it. Back just in time (9:13 PM)! Those poor guys from Wasilla hadn’t looked prepared for this.

Fifteen minutes later they appeared running across Willow Creek Road toward Hatcher Pass, where their vehicle must have been parked. Had they made it to the summit of Skyscraper? Probably, but they couldn’t have been there long enough to enjoy it. Lupe would never know for sure. At least they were back safely, though cold and soaking wet.

Lupe’s Skyscraper Mountain adventure had reached a successful conclusion, despite all the doubts of the last several days. Time to celebrate! SPHP drove down out of the soup back to Palmer. All remaining roasted chicken was devoured, along with a second course of cheese and crackers.

Carolina Dogs love cheese! Lupe always gobbled the cheese first before she would touch the cracker. American Dingoes always go for the gusto, then mop up whatever remains later on. But then, you probably knew that already.