5-25-20 – Lucky Dingo! You’ve been granted a reprieve.
I have? That’s good! A reprieve from what, SPHP?
All this endless boredom laying around. Apparently you’ve served your 6 month sentence. Adventure is heading your way! Remember Dave Covill and your Mighty Dingo Missile Launch?
How could I ever forget that? I was sore for a week!
You’re lucky you weren’t crippled for life! Anyway, Dave is coming up from Colorado in a couple of days to climb Devils Tower (5,112 ft.). Says here he might have time to meet with us.
Devils Tower! That’s straight up and down! No one can climb that!
Actually, it is possible with the right equipment and skills, Loop.
Or a helicopter!
Hah! Yeah, that’s the only way we’d ever get up there! Don’t worry, we aren’t going to try to keep up with Dave. Last year his first little starter peak was Aconcagua (22,841 ft.), the high point of South America!
5-27-20, 12:45 PM, Wyoming Hwy 24 – We’re almost there, SPHP! There’s Devils Tower and the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.), too. Can we stop and take a look from here?
Sure thing, Loopster!
At 1:02 PM, Lupe arrived at the Devils Tower Trading Post. Dave was supposed to meet her here once he finished his final training session with his guide.
Dave finally showed up a little before 2:30 PM. He was pleased with how quickly he had bonded with his guide, and the quality of training. Despite Dave’s decades of peakbagging experience, Devils Tower was a tough and unique challenge! One of his knees was scraped up and swollen, but he still intended to climb the mountain tomorrow.
Dave had a few hours to burn with Lupe, so what to do? Two options! First was a visit to Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.), the high point of the Bear Lodge mountains. Warren Peaks was easy. A USFS road went all the way to the fire lookout tower on top, so it was just a drive up. The other option was to climb Missouri Buttes, which would take a few hours.
After a very early start on the long drive up from Colorado yesterday morning followed by two rigorous training sessions on Devils Tower, and faced with the prospect of climbing it tomorrow, Warren Peaks sounded like the sensible choice to Dave. He jumped in the G6 with Lupe and SPHP.
On the way to Warren Peaks, SPHP naturally asked about Dave’s trip to Aconcagua, and also his return to Alaska in August, 2019 for a second attempt on Mount Isto (8,976 ft.), the high point of the Brooks Range. Both were gripping tales.
(Dave’s Aconcagua trip report, Greg Slayden’s Mount Isto trip report. Their mutual friend Edward Earl had drowned in the Jago River during a first trip to Mount Isto in June, 2015.)
Shortly before reaching Warren Peaks, SPHP parked on a hill expecting a view of Devils Tower, but only the Missouri Buttes were in sight.
It was surprisingly cool up at Warren Peaks. A massive cloud hung over the region hiding the view of the Black Hills way over in South Dakota. Dave climbed the fire lookout tower as far as it was possible to go, but access to the platform around the ranger’s quarters was locked. Not to be outdone, even Lupe climbed the tower, which she doesn’t normally like to do.
During the return to Devils Tower, SPHP took the paved roads, a longer route, so Dave could get a look at the town of Sundance.
Shhh! Quit talking, SPHP.
Hmm? What, Loop?
Be quiet! You’ve put Dave to sleep.
Oh! Umm, yeah. I often have that affect on people, don’t I, Looper? Guess I’ve got quite a soothing personality.
I suppose that’s one way of putting it.
Back at Devils Tower, Dave introduced Lupe and SPHP to a couple of climbing guides he’d met who happened to come along, then he had other business to attend to. The first of 3 more friends that were going to climb Devils Tower with him was due in this evening. So that was it for now, although Dave said he might be free again in a couple of days.
5-27-20, 4:50 PM, Devils Tower Trading Post –
Fun seeing Dave again, wasn’t it, SPHP?
Sure was, Loopster. Mighty nice of him to want to include us in his plans.
So what now? Are we just going home?
Oh, I don’t know. Not even 5:00 PM yet. We still have permission from the Nuckolls to climb Missouri Buttes. I think there’s still time. Want to do that?
Absolutely! Let’s go for it!
From Devils Tower, the entrance to the Nuckolls Ranch was a few miles N on Hwy 24, then another mile N and 4 miles W on Barlow Canyon Road.
As instructed while getting permission from Will Nuckolls to enter the ranch in order to visit the Missouri Buttes, SPHP drove S past 2 homes and a number of outbuildings, ultimately parking the G6 beyond them nearly 1.5 miles S of Barlow Canyon Road.
A pickup truck full of Nuckolls driven by family matriarch, Thea Nuckolls, appeared within minutes. Lupe was several hours later than SPHP had told them to expect her, but that wasn’t a problem. A friendly conversation, and they were on their way.
Lupe was too! She struck out for the Missouri Buttes following a dirt ranch road S.
The road curved slightly to the R as it went up a mostly forested valley. Lupe quickly came to an old water tank. The main road curved sharply R (NW) here, but the Carolina Dog continued SSW past the water tank a short distance into a more open part of the valley. Within a few hundred feet, the valley branched. Loop took the R (SW) branch instead of going straight ahead.
After just a few minutes, Lupe turned S entering the forest and starting to climb. The remnant of a road curved L around to a clearing on the E side of hill. This looked like a good spot to leave the valley. A quick romp up the hill got Looper up to a narrow, gently rounded ridge.
Following the ridgeline SSW, the Carolina Dog continued to gain a little elevation. However, that didn’t last long. The ridge soon leveled out as it widened out. Lupe passed through an open forest. A few minutes got her beyond the pines. She was now on a broad plateau with a fenced field just ahead. Well beyond the field stood the NW Missouri Butte (5,374 ft.), the highest one of all.
Without entering the big field, Lupe followed the fence line L (SE). Along the way she went through another section of open woods. Almost at the end, she crossed a little ravine before ducking under a fence. Loopster wasn’t far at all from the NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) now.
Since it was getting late in the day, and climbing the higher NW butte was top priority, Lupe turned WSW heading for it instead.
Lupe soon reached a stock pond at the base of the NW Missouri Butte. Looking at the mountain from here, a large patch of orange lichens was visible near the top of the N face.
The American Dingo had been here once before. In November 2016, back when J.W. Nuckolls was still alive, he had told SPHP the best way up the mountain.
The gist of it is this: Climb the talus slope to the base of the rock wall on the N face just below the orange lichens. From there go L (E) following a steep ramp of vegetation higher. At the top of the ramp, a short trail wraps around to the E side where it goes 40 or 50 feet to a spot where it’s easy to clamber up onto the lower E end of the summit. A short walk through junipers and cacti goes past a small tower to the true summit near the W end.
Part of the talus could be avoided by staying to the NW close to a fence line, so that’s what Lupe did. As it turned out, she could have avoided even more talus if she’d actually crossed the fence. Not really a big deal, though, either way. Soon the Carolina Dog was on the rocks.
Even though SPHP knew the best route, Lupe didn’t go quite far enough L (E) to come up below the orange lichens. She wound up in a wide NW chute that was so steep SPHP almost felt compelled to retreat to correct the error.
Certainly not the best route, but the super steep part at the uppermost end of the chute went only 10 or 15 feet higher. Without assistance, the Carolina Dog quickly scrambled to the top. She’d come up right at the true summit rock!
A Missouri Butte survey benchmark No. 2 was visible along the W edge 10 or 15 feet from the true summit.
5-27-20, 6:54 PM, 57ºF – Such a gorgeous evening! The views from the NW Missouri Butte were tremendous. Off to the W, Lupe could see a huge expanse of flatlands dotted with ponds gleaming in the sunlight. To the N were pine-covered ridges, but nothing nearly as high as where the Carolina Dog was now.
Just as in 2016, the summit region harbored lots of cacti. Lupe was aware of it, and didn’t want to move around much. Between all the rocks and cacti, she had a hard time finding a comfortable spot, but did finally settle down for a while. A light breeze blew out of the W. Loop and SPHP shared several small chocolate coconut granola bars.
A pleasant half hour drifted by. Unfortunately, the sun wouldn’t be up an awful lot longer. Since Loopster still hoped to climb the NE Missouri Butte, it was time to get going. Lupe returned briefly to the summit rock.
The NW butte’s summit region was a fairly large area. Juniper bushes hid the views to the E and S from the true summit. Before departing, it would be fun to see the two lowest Missouri Buttes and Missouri Butte Lake, which were all toward the S. Due to all the cacti, SPHP carried Lupe more than 100 feet to the lower SW edge.
After a good look around from the SW end, SPHP subsequently had to cart the American Dingo back up to the summit.
No more dilly-dallying! SPHP lugged the Carolina Dog to the E end of the summit. This was even farther, a good 200 or 300 feet. The view to the SE was certainly worth it! Devils Tower (5,112 ft.) was in sight. Lupe got to see the top of Devils Tower before Dave Covill did, albeit from more than 3.5 miles away.
The NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) was also in sight much closer at paw. Might still be time enough to climb it, if Loop hurried!
During the descent, Lupe took the slightly longer, but much safer route originally recommended by Mr. Nuckolls.
It took a while to get down. By the time Lupe was approaching the W end of the NE Missouri Butte, the sun was on the horizon.
The climb up the W end of the NE Butte was fairly steep, but nothing like the NW Butte had been. Just a matter of how quickly SPHP could do it. Once the terrain began to level out, Lupe roamed E in open forest. The true summit was one of a couple of good-sized rocks near the far E end. Light was fading fast by the time the Carolina Dog got there.
SPHP was glad to see that the old thin cross that had been here during Lupe’s first ascent more than 3.5 years ago was still standing. Of course, the big attraction was the view of Devils Tower, which was 0.5 mile closer here than back at the NW Butte.
Sadly, 5 minutes at the top was it. Getting pretty dark now. Lupe left the summit of the NE Butte. The flashlight had to come out before she was even completely down off the mountain. As stars began twinkling in the evening sky, Loop and SPHP headed back to the G6. Between seeing Dave Covill and visiting the Missouri Buttes, it had been a memorable day! (10:06 PM, 44ºF)
5-31-20, 8:52 AM, 68ºF, Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, SD – Turned out the fun Dave Covill had initiated wasn’t over! After a successful ascent of Devils Tower with 3 of his buddies, Dave came down to the Black Hills in South Dakota. As Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation, he had business to attend to inspecting the installation of a beautiful bench along Trail No. 4 in the the Black Elk Wilderness. Dave kindly invited Lupe and SPHP to come along.
The plan was to go from Sylvan Lake up Trail No. 9, which went past an older, similar bench also provided by the Highpointers Foundation. From there Lupe would get to summit Black Elk Peak (7,242 ft.) before making a loop back along Trail No. 4.
Everything went as planned. An hour later Lupe was approaching the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota. The Highpointers Foundation had helped pay for restoration work, including new windows in the top of the tower.
Dave maintained that the highest natural point on Black Elk Peak was just outside the N wall of the lookout tower. Since the Highpointers Foundation is dedicated to education, support, and conservation of the highest point in each of the 50 U.S. states, Lupe figured Dave ought to know. The Carolina Dog made the little scramble up to it.
Black Elk Peak wasn’t crowded, but it was busy. A nice 25 minute stay, and it was time to let others enjoy a bit more serenity. Besides, Dave needed to get over to that new bench along Trail No. 4!
Trail No. 4 passes between the Cathedral Spires (6840 ft.) and Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.). At a point with a view of Black Elk Peak a mile to the N, Lupe came to the beautiful new bench donated by the Maura and Karen Raffensperger families and the Highpointers Foundation in memory of Grace Underwood Raffensperger. Many years ago, Grace had homesteaded in the Black Hills.
5-31-20, 1:12 PM, 80ºF, Sylvan Lake – Back at Sylvan Lake, it was time for good-byes. Dave had to hit the road home to Colorado, and was soon on his way.
Last day of May already! Thanks to Dave’s visit, Lupe had finally gotten her 2020 mountain adventures off to a good, but much delayed start. With June just hours away, the Carolina Dog once again had high hopes for a spectacular Summer of 2020!
Links:
Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Adventure
Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 181 – Missouri Buttes, WY (11-6-16)
Devils Tower National Monument
Climb Devils Tower! – Devils Tower Lodge
Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!
YAY!!! Another dingo adventure! Made my day, Lupes. 🙂
Another great adventure Lupe! I learn so much about all this fun hikes to do in the Black Hills and beyond.
It sounds as though you need to get permission to hike Missouri Buttes. Is this pretty easy? Wondering if there might be a phone number to check with them. Planning a trip this year and am hoping to finally do Inyan Kara – if Missouri Buttes is pretty close I might have some time to do this the next day.
Also, what’s Lupe’s favorite SD Black Hills hike that most people wouldn’t know? Do you have any favorite ‘off the beaten trail’ hikes that are secluded but have a good summit payoff?
Thanks!
Hey, Jesse! Glad you liked this post!
To request permission to climb Missouri Buttes, call Will & Laura Nuckolls (307) 467-5375. This number was good in late May, 2020, and Will Nuckolls readily granted me permission. You can easily drive from any point in the Black Hills region to any other in less than a day.
For some off the beaten path hikes with good summit payoffs you’ve already got 2 great choices with Inyan Kara and Missouri Buttes. For more, maybe select from some of the following:
Southern Hills: Flagpole Mountain, Northeast Cicero Peak, Sullivan Peak & nearby Twin Buttes, Elk Benchmark (a drive up), Buckhorn Mountain.
Black Elk (Harney) Peak region: Sylvan Hill, Peak 6735.
Western Hills: White Tail Peak (ends of the SE ridges, not the summit), Flag Mountain (drive up) and nearby Nipple Butte, Hat Mountain, Copper Mountain (E edge), Cement Ridge (fire tower has the views).
Northern Hills: Custer Peak (fire tower), Pillar Peak (new post coming in Feb), Crow Peak.
Bear Lodge (NE Wyoming): Warren Peaks (drive up), Sheep Nose, Bald Mountain, Stoney Point.
Big variety in difficulties in this list. Drive ups to bushwhacks. Have posts on all of them. If you have specific questions on any, let me know. Hope you have an awesome Black Hills experience!