Doubletop Peak, Gros Ventre Range, Wyoming – Part 1: On the Dry Fork Trail to Brewster Lake (7-3-21)

Day 12 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

7:54 AM, 61ºF – A gorgeous July morning!  Last evening’s cloudburst had worked its magic.  Clear, calm, and pleasantly cool at the new Kinky Creek trailhead.  At least, that’s where SPHP thought Lupe was.

From what SPHP had been able to gather online, the former Kinky Creek trailhead had been moved from it’s old location on Kinky Creek.  Exactly where to had never been clear, but from the looks of the big parking area next to a gate leading into a private ranch, this was likely it, despite no sign of Kinky Creek.

A tattered poster of the Gros Ventre Wilderness next to a trail leaving the W end of the parking lot added some degree of certainty to the “this is the new trailhead” theory, but that was it for signs of confirmation.

Whether this was the new Kinky Creek trailhead or not didn’t concern the American Dingo in the least.  She liked the looks of what was going on.  An even bigger than normal adventure appeared to be in the works!

We’re taking the tiny house, SPHP?

Yes, indeedy, Looper!  My best guess is that this new trailhead shaves about a mile or a bit more off the old one way distance of 11 or 12 miles, but that still leaves a mighty long round trip day hike.  So, to heck with that!  We’ll just take our time and enjoy the adventure.

11 or 12 miles to where, SPHP?

Doubletop Peak (11,720 ft.), the highest mountain in the entire Gros Ventre Range, Loop!  We won’t get there today, though.  With any luck, we’ll camp at Brewster Lake this evening.  Lugging all this gear, I’m sure I’ll be ready to stop by then.

Sounded good to Lupe.  She wasn’t going to be lugging anything!  Easy day at the start of a fabulous Gros Ventre Wilderness adventure for her.  SPHP strapped the heavier-than-normal pack on, and the American Dingo was on her way.

All the vegetation was still sopping wet from last night’s downpour as the trail led through a lush green forest.  Fortunately, the trail itself was merely damp and not a sea of mud.  Starting out level, it soon began an easy, switchbacking descent.

Partway down into a big valley where the confluences of Clear Creek, Kinky Creek, and the Gros Ventre River were, an opening in the forest permitted initial glimpses of the surrounding territory.  The SE end of Sportman Ridge was in sight.  Far to the SW, patches of snow clung to an enormous gray ridge.  SPHP wasn’t completely sure yet, but the high point of that ridge might be Doubletop Peak.

The trail soon bottomed out in forested lowlands, where Lupe came upon several signs.  Happily, they confirmed that thus far she had been on the Kinky Creek trail, and that she was going the right way to get to the Dry Fork trail.  However, there rather oddly did not appear to be any actual trail junction at these signs.

The Kinky Creek trail headed W from here.  Lupe soon came to another sign where the trail actually did fork.  The Horse Crossing was straight ahead.  No indication of where the trail angling toward the R went, but presumably, the Human Crossing.

What makes you say that, SPHP?  Kind of presumptuous of you humans, isn’t it?  Could go to the Dingo crossing, couldn’t it?

Oh, sweet Dingo!  Not to worry!  Everyone realizes that Dingoes cross wherever they please.  No reason to limit them to this crossing or that.

A nice recovery by SPHP!  Lupe liked that explanation.

Continuing straight, the American Dingo soon came to the dry wash of an exposed river bed.  The Clear Creek Horse Crossing was just a little farther.  When Lupe got there, SPHP didn’t like the looks of it.  Clear Creek was several feet deep, and flowing swiftly over a bottom of rounded stones.  Trying to cross it here didn’t look like much fun.

Before we do anything drastic, Loopster, wha’dya say we have a look at the Human Crossing first?

Returning to the Horse Crossing sign, the trail to the Human Crossing was taken next.  The Human Crossing was somewhat downstream from the Horse Crossing.  SPHP wasn’t really expecting it to be any better, but when Lupe arrived there, it clearly was.

Despite the washed out remains of a bridge attached to the far bank, the Human Crossing was definitely the way to go!  Clear Creek was still rocky and fast-flowing, but only 1.5 feet deep here.  Neither SPHP nor Lupe had any problem fording it.

A short distance beyond the Human Crossing, Lupe came to another trail junction with a sign that was both helpful, yet also confusing.  The Clear Creek trail went L, the Gros Ventre River trail went R, and the Dry Fork trail that went to Brewster Laker was straight ahead.

Seemed simple enough, except for one thing.  A trail went L, and a trail went R, but the Dry Fork trail, which supposedly went straight, didn’t seem to exist.

SPHP knew Loop would need to climb the ridge directly beyond the sign, but was reluctant to simply take off into the forest.  After all, this was supposed to be a trail hike, not an exhausting, trackless, bushwhacking expedition.

The mystery was soon solved.  Exploring to the R along the Gross Ventre River trail, Lupe came to another fork within 30 feet.  No signage here, but the branch to the L angled straight toward the base of the ridge Lupe needed to take.

Good job, Looper!  Think you found Dry Fork trail No. 98!

For a mile or more after leaving the big valley, Dry Fork trail No. 98 climbed through the forest, a little steeply at first, but not so bad after gaining some elevation.  Nothing to see except trees, but at least the trail was in decent shape – easy to follow with no deadfall across it.

The Dry Fork trail eventually made it over to the S side of the huge ridge Lupe was climbing.  Here there began to be some sagebrush clearings that provided views of the mountains.  Early on, Lupe got glimpses of the Red Hills at the far upper end of the Clear Creek valley.

As Looper continued higher, she began seeing more spectacular peaks beyond the Dry Fork drainage.  Doubletop Peak (11,720 ft.), Triangle Peak (11,535 ft.) and Peak 11626 were all in view.

The trail still veered off into the forest now and then, but never strayed far from the S edge of the ridge.  Doubletop Peak eventually disappeared from view, but Triangle Peak could still be seen from all the clearings.  SPHP began watching for Trail No. 96, which should branch off to the R on its way N to the Gros Ventre River valley.

Lupe finally came to a place where the trail forked.  Presumably, the R branch was Trail No. 96, but there was no signage here to confirm that notion.  Loopster took a break in the shade while SPHP consulted the topo map.

Staying toward the L, the American Dingo carried on.  Dry Fork trail No. 98 promptly entered a very large sagebrush clearing and began heading steadily downhill.  When it made a switchback, descending even more rapidly, SPHP started to fret.

Hang on a minute, Looper!  This doesn’t seem right.

Did we go the wrong way, SPHP?

Not sure.  Let me check the map again.

The map wasn’t much help.  Wasn’t really a confidence booster that this was the right way, either.  It didn’t show Dry Fork trail No. 98 losing any significant amount of elevation in one chunk along in here.  The trail ought to be holding its own, or maybe even gaining a little elevation, yet this trail appeared destined to descend clear down to Dry Fork Creek.

If it did that, then looped back down the valley to the confluence with Clear Creek, Lupe would never get to Doubletop Peak!

However, there didn’t seem to be much choice.  Rather than set off on a bushwhack or return to the last fork, Lupe kept going.  Fortunately, the trail soon began to level out, and turned up the valley, not down.

The Carolina Dog was on a densely forested stretch again when suddenly there was a disturbance nearby.  A great fluttering was followed by an annoyed clucking as a gray bird strutted back and forth along a small log just off the trail.  Looked like some sort of grouse to SPHP.

The grouse made no attempt to fly away, instead preferring to scold both Lupe and SPHP for the rude, unexpected intrusion.  Maybe it had a nest nearby?  After watching the bird strut its stuff for a couple of minutes, Looper moved on, leaving the grouse to its boldly defended seclusion.

The trail eventually did approach Dry Fork Creek.  However, as SPHP had already concluded it would by now, rather than following the stream down the valley, it continued upstream.  Within 5 minutes, Lunch Lake was coming into view ahead.

11:40 AM, Lunch Lake – A small, sagebrush-dotted ridge overlooked Lunch Lake and the outlet where Dry Fork creek left it.  Sunny and warm!  Almost lunch time!  Aptly-named, Lunch Lake was easily the most scenic spot so far along the Dry Fork trail.  For 25 minutes, Lupe and SPHP relaxed and snacked while enjoying the splendid views.

When it was time to move on, Lupe continued W on Dry Fork trail No. 98, passing the N shore of Lunch Lake.  The Carolina Dog stopped now and then to admire the lake from this new perspective.  However, Lunch Lake was eventually lost from view as the trail steadily gained elevation and took Lupe back into the forest.

N of the trail, and way above it, was a long line of cliffs separated below by a steep grassy strip from a jumble of rough-looking talus.

Dry Fork trail No. 98 followed the cliffs W before starting to angle SW away from them.  A marshy region containing several large ponds was just ahead.  The trail dipped almost to the ponds’ level, passing S of them as it skirted the marsh on firm, flat ground.

The trail led to another pond with a mucky shoreline dotted with light gray rocks.  Near this pond, even the trail got soft.  However, Lupe was soon on firm pawing again as Dry Fork trail No. 98 curved W, and began climbing into a rockier region.

After gaining 160 feet of elevation, the trail topped out and turned SW.  A headwall could be seen ahead.  Toward the S end, Dry Fork Creek rushed out of a narrow gash.  The trail dipped as it headed that way, crossing a small stream where Loopster helped herself to a drink.

As Lupe approached the headwall, Dry Fork trail No. 98 angled well N of the gash.  The headwall turned out to not be a wall so much as merely a steepish forested slope.  Nothing tricky about it, but progress was slow.  Unaccustomed to the heavy pack, SPHP was running out of gas.

Forest eventually gave way to a region of small rocks.  The top of the slope wasn’t much farther.

The terrain leveled out.  A line of trees was at the far end of a meadow.  Upon reaching the trees, a short, steepish descent began.

2:50 PM, Brewster Lake – Dry Fork trail No. 98 switchbacked down to a long green meadow.  This was it!  Lupe had arrived!  Two tents sat next to a line of spruce trees along Brewster Lake.  A dog laying by one of the tents immediately raised the alarm when it saw a Carolina Dog coming down the trail.

Turned out there were 3 dogs!  While Lupe raced down to sniff with them, SPHP headed for the E end of the meadow.  Loop soon returned to watch SPHP put up her tiny house for the first time this year.  Naturally, as soon as it was set up, the American Dingo wanted to try it out.  She seemed reasonably satisfied with the result.

The tiny house was roughly 200 feet from where Dry Fork Creek left the NE end of Brewster Lake.  Lupe and SPHP wandered down that way for a look around.

What a fabulous setting!  Even better than Lunch Lake!  Brewster Lake nestled at the foot of towering Triangle Peak (11,535 ft.).  To the W, the same mountains Lupe had seen from Lunch Lake were much closer.

Even Dry Fork Creek was more impressive here.  A far cry from dry, it was a good-sized stream as it left Brewster Lake flowing NE through a channel leading to the gash where it would roar down the headwall.

Mid-afternoon!  Nice to have arrived at Brewster Lake before the whole day was shot.  SPHP had grown thoroughly weary of the heavy pack and was glad to be rid of it.  Lupe was ready to take it easy, too!  After sharing a few chocolate coconut bars, an afternoon snooze fest ensued.

At times, a dog could be heard yapping incessantly in the distance, but neither Lupe nor SPHP paid the least bit of attention.

6:22 PM, Brewster Lake – At least somewhat refreshed on a beautiful July evening, Lupe stood next to the N shore of Brewster Lake.  Way over at the far W end was the awesome, rocky territory she would be exploring tomorrow on her way to Doubletop Peak (11,720 ft.).

Hopes were high!  Didn’t look bad at all from here!

After returning to the tiny house, SPHP decided to pay a brief visit to the neighbors.  All 3 dogs raised a ruckus as Lupe approached.

Dale and Shannon were the only people the Carolina Dog had seen all day.  They loved to fish, and had never even heard of Doubletop Peak.  The spaniel and a dachshund were theirs.  Porter, a terrier, belonged to a neighbor, but had been lucky enough to get invited along.

Dale and Shannon were so friendly that the brief visit turned into an hour.  They were from Jackson.  Dale was retired, and had once been USFS manager of this sector of the Gros Ventre wilderness.  Shannon was still working, but didn’t say at what.  Both had interesting stories to tell, the sort of stories one hears in the mountains.

Shannon had once climbed Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) with a full pack, then had to be emergency air-lifted out after suffering a torn ACL.  Dale told stories of bear encounters, and one about a guy who had hiked into the mountains to some hot springs in winter, then nearly froze to death on the way back wearing only flip-flops and a towel when he couldn’t remember where he’d stashed his pack.

But the story Lupe liked best came after Dale asked if their dachshund had disturbed anyone?  The fishing had been good this afternoon.  Dale had caught a several nice cutthroat trout.  All had been released, except the biggest one, which had been fried up for dinner and shared with all the dogs.

The problem was that their dachshund was a fishing fanatic!  He always got so excited that he barked incessantly, and became frantic trying to bite the fish whenever Dale or Shannon tried to land one.

The only bad part of this story was that Lupe hadn’t revived early enough from her nap to participate in the delicious fish fry!

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Doubletop Peak, Gros Ventre Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Brewster Lake to the Summit! (7-4-21)

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