Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 134 – Copper, Odakota, Green & Hat Mountains Plus the Dragon Caves (6-20-15)

It’s getting to that time of year when Lupe’s expeditions into the Black Hills usually stop for the summer.  The weather just gets too warm for a long day’s march in the hills to be much fun.  Usually the mud puddles have dried up by now, and the little seasonal creeks and streams are starting to dry up too.  SPHP has a hard time carrying enough water to satisfy a hot, thirsty American dingo.

So far this June though, temperatures have been pretty mild.  Rainfall has been way above normal, so there are still lots of mud puddles.  All the creeks and streams are looking good.  With a still reasonably tolerable high temperature forecast in the lower hills just in the low 80’s, this day was still going to be pretty nice in the higher hills.  Lupe could continue her peakbagging along the E edge of the limestone plateau country of the western hills.

SPHP parked the G6 at 7:49 AM along USFS Road No. 301.1A just off No. 301 at the exact same spot as on Expedition No. 132 two weeks earlier.  It was a beautiful 59°F, with completely clear blue skies and a light N breeze.  Since they were so close, Expedition No. 134 was going to start the same way as Expedition No. 132, with ascents of Copper and then Odakota Mountains.

The views were great from the SE end of Copper Mountain (6,920 ft.).  Lupe and SPHP stopped here for a little while for SPHP to goop up with sunscreen (the first of 3 goopings on this sunny day) while appreciating the bright morning views.  The stop at the summit of Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) was shorter, just long enough for a photo of Lupe at the summit cairn.  Lupe and SPHP weren’t going to trek all the way to the SE edge of the mountain through all that deadfall timber again like Lupe did on Expedition No. 132.  Instead, Lupe left Odakota Mountain to head for Green Mountain (7,164 ft.).

Lupe headed W from Odakota Mountain crossing USFS Road No. 693 at its high point and continuing on following the ridge line, which had a series of small rock escarpments along it.  There was a fair amount of deadfall timber around, but not so much as to seriously impede progress.  More annoying was the barbed wire fence which followed along fairly close to the ridge line, too.  No matter which side of the fence Lupe and SPHP got on, it seemed like the terrain soon changed to make the other side of the fence more desirable again.

Lupe and SPHP reached USFS Road No. 301 again just E of No. 301.1R, which goes N up Windmill Draw.  Windmill Draw is a pretty shallow broad valley with open meadows in the middle.  Pines and a few aspens line the sides of the draw.  No. 301.1R stuck to the W side of the draw near the pines.  Beetle-killed deadfall blocked the way fairly frequently, but it was easy to just drop down a bit into the valley to get around it where it was bad.  Pines still standing provided some shade, which was welcome with the sun so high in the sky.

At the upper end of Windmill Draw, No. 301.1R meets up with No. 691.1B (both unmarked here).   Lupe and SPHP took No. 691.1B NE to Green Mountain.  The best views here were from the cliffs at the SE end of the mountain.  There were splendid views of everything from the NE around to the SE and S.  Lupe and SPHP took a break on the cliffs.  Lupe was ready for some Taste of the Wild.  SPHP had the usual apple and split a little granola bar with Lupe.

Lupe’s next peakbagging goal of the day was Hat Mountain (6,779 ft.) over 3 miles to the NW.  Although Hat Mountain is near the limestone plateau country, it is a little different from Copper, Odakota and Green Mountains in that it sits out a little distance from the limestone plateau instead of being along the E edge of the long escarpment.  Lupe and SPHP left Green Mountain exploring to the N of No. 691.1B until the terrain forced a turn to the W to stay on the high ground.  Although SPHP was hoping for views of Hat Mountain, there were none from here that were any good.  There were too many trees.

There was also a substantial amount of deadfall timber to contend with.  Somewhere not too far W of the junction of USFS Roads No. 301.1R and No. 691.1B at the upper N end of Windmill Draw, Lupe and SPHP retreated S to get back on No. 691.1B heading W.  The road was open and the deadfall timber in the forest was just too much to deal with.  Lupe had a long way to go yet on this expedition, and it just took too much time.  When No. 691.1B reached No. 691, Lupe turned N on No. 691.

No. 691 isn’t a major gravel road, but it was in good condition and wide enough so that it didn’t get much shade.  Even though No. 691 lost elevation as Lupe headed N on it, the trek was so sunny and warm that SPHP was soon sweating.  Lupe and SPHP took occasional shade breaks (and a goop break) along the way in the forest just off the road.  SPHP was glad to leave No. 691 to turn W on No. 691.1E (marked as ATV trail No. 6004) just before reaching Heely Creek S of Hat Mountain.  No. 691.1E was a lesser road and much shadier.

From No. 691.1E, Hat Mountain, now just a mile to the N, was soon visible through the trees.  SPHP hoped for an easy way down the short, but steep bank through the trees into the meadow near Heely Creek, but finally gave up and just plunged N into the forest full of deadfall to get down to the valley.  Shortly after getting there, it was apparent that no more than a couple hundred yards farther W on No. 691.1E would have brought Lupe and SPHP to an easy side road right on down to a little ford across Heely Creek.  Exploring is like that.

There was a lot of marshy ground along Heely Creek and the easiest crossing point was at the little ford on the side road, so Lupe and SPHP crossed the creek there.  Once across the creek, it was an easy matter to make the trek up Hat Mountain from the S.  Unlike the other mountains Lupe had already climbed earlier in the day, Hat Mountain is not thickly forested and there was no deadfall timber to contend with.

The top of Hat Mountain is a flat limestone escarpment.  Without any trees up there, the views were excellent in every direction.  Consequently, Lupe and SPHP dallied up on Hat Mountain quite a while.  Lupe took a generous helping of Taste of the Wild.  The last little granola bar was shared and the last apple disappeared.  There were some beautiful clouds around and some big birds came swooping by for a little while.  The only thing Lupe didn’t like was that the top was so rocky.  It wasn’t terribly comfortable laying down to rest while viewing the scenic display.

A 50% chance of scattered thunderstorms had been in the forecast for between 1-4 PM.  There were enough clouds around by now so that rain did look like it might develop.  SPHP thought maybe it was time for Lupe to head for the Dragon Caves.  There was probably time to get there before any serious rain developed.  So Lupe left Hat Mountain heading SW.  She rounded the S end of a low ridge down near Heely Creek and then followed the creek to USFS Road No. 291 (Ditch Creek Road).

Lupe turned S on No. 291, which is a pretty major gravel road.  It is a beautiful drive, but was way busier than SPHP likes for hiking.  Groups of ATV’s roared up and down the road, along with cars and pickup trucks.  Nothing really all that major, but Lupe and SPHP usually go many hours and often the entire day without seeing anyone on Lupe’s expeditions.  Now it was minutes, and not all that many, between traffic events.  Fortunately, it was only 2/3 mile from Heely Creek to the bridge across Ditch Creek that leads to the Dragon Caves.

Lupe crossed the bridge over Ditch Creek and instead of following USFS Road No. 385 to the right, continued straight ahead on an ATV trail up a small hill.  A right turn at an open area leads directly to the Dragon Caves.  The Dragon Caves have three large openings (they have to be large to accommodate dragons) facing S.  Farther back into the caves all three entrances connect.  Imagine a capital letter “E” with the long connecting side running E/W and the three shorter lines pointing S, and you have a good idea of the floor plan and orientation of the Dragon Caves entrances.

It was cool inside the Dragon Caves.  And dark.  SPHP got the flashlight with weak batteries out.  The dim light showed the dusty floor well enough to continue in to the area where the entrances are connected.  There is more to the Dragon Caves than just the “E”.  Big side passages and some smaller ones go back into the dark recesses.  Lupe went dragon hunting.  Fortunately for Smaug and any other dragons, they must have had some warning that a Carolina Dog was coming for them.  They had already departed.

Unfortunately for Lupe and SPHP, the dragons had evidently had time to pack up their treasure hoards and damsels in distress and depart with the entire bounty.  The only thing left other than dust was a beer can, dropped no doubt by some poor tourist during a dragon encounter with an unhappy ending.  Tourists just don’t know enough to bring a Carolina Dog with them for protection.  It’s not their fault really, they are from somewhere else and unfamiliar with the situation.  SPHP picked up the beer can as the only souvenir of Lupe’s dragon hunting this time around.

Lupe emerged from the Dragon Caves to find that it was sprinkling outside.  Now and then weak pathetic thunder could be heard.  If this was the scattered thunderstorm in the forecast, there was nothing to worry about.  Lupe went back to USFS Road No. 291 and turned S again.  About 1.5 miles farther on Lupe passed Ditch Creek campground, which seemed to be a source of the traffic in the area.  Despite its dreadful name, Ditch Creek campground is one of the nicest and most scenic campgrounds in the Black Hills.  Many of the campsites are right on Ditch Creek, a small clear cold stream that always has decent flow.  Plenty of people were around, but the campground wasn’t yet full.

Lupe wasn’t going to camp.  She pressed on to the S on No. 291.  An ATV trail map back at Ditch Creek campground had shown SPHP that Lupe should watch for ATV trail No. 6008 less than 0.75 mile S of the campground.  It supposedly wound its way E back to USFS Road No. 691.

Pretty soon Lupe reached No. 6008 and made the turn to the E.  No. 6008 was a lovely little road that climbed steadily, but not too steeply.  By the time Lupe turned on to No. 6008, the sun was low on the horizon.  As she climbed on No. 6008, though, the sun just didn’t set.  It always seemed like it was going to, but Lupe kept getting high enough up to keep it in view.

No. 6008 went on and on, climbing higher and higher.  Lupe saw a nice herd of 10 elk (the “giant deers”, as Lupe knows them!) disappear into the forest.  There started to be various intersecting ATV trails, all with different numbers.  Where No. 6008 went to, SPHP couldn’t say.  After a while Lupe seemed to be on No. 6010 and still later on No. 6011.  Lupe was on No. 6011 when the road finally reached the high point of the ridge between No. 291 to the W and No. 691 to the E.  Unfortunately, No. 6011 turned S and didn’t look like it was going to complete the trip to No. 691, which couldn’t have been much farther E at this point.

By now the sun was down, but it was still plenty light out to leave No. 6011 in search of No. 691.  Lupe and SPHP headed E and then SE through the forest.  Sure enough, before long Lupe reached No. 691.  SPHP recognized the spot, too.  Lupe was just 100 yards N of where No. 691.1B leaves No. 691 to head for Green Mountain.  SPHP decided it would be fun for Lupe to go tag the summit of Green Mountain again.  It would be nearly dark by the time Lupe got there, but so what?  It was a beautiful evening.

The 2nd ascent of Green Mountain was Lupe’s final peakbagging accomplishment of the day.  The light was fading fast, but Lupe and SPHP were both ready for a rest.  Copper Mountain was visible a couple miles to the SE.  The G6 was a short distance beyond Copper Mountain.  However, with darkness coming on, Lupe and SPHP would have to stick to the roads.  That meant the G6 was still 6 miles away.  After a 10 or 15 minute rest break at the cliffs on Green Mountain, it was time to move on ready or not.

The flashlight had to come out as the crescent moon wasn’t going to provide much light.  It was going to set within 2 or 3 hours and was obscured by clouds part of the time anyway.  Lupe and SPHP retraced No. 691.1B going SW to No. 301.1R at the N end of Windmill Draw.  SPHP started S through Windmill Draw on No. 301.1R and somehow got on a dirt track heading down through the meadow in the middle of Windmill Draw.  This was actually better than being on No. 301.1R, since there wasn’t any deadfall timber to contend with.

By the time Lupe reached the main gravel road, No. 301, there was lightning.  There was a little cloud-to-cloud lightning in the thin clouds nearby, but in the distance there was intense lightning in several different directions.  Lupe and SPHP took a rest break, but it didn’t last long.  SPHP heard thunder, still faint, but coming from off to the NW, the likely source of approaching weather.  It was time for Lupe to hurry on.

Lupe and SPHP took several more short rest breaks.  It had been a very long day.  The lightning display grew brighter and more dazzling, though it was still far enough away so only distant thunder could be heard and even that only now and then.  The situation changed after Lupe passed the turnoff for No. 693 to Odakota Mountain and Long Draw, which Lupe did not take.  There started to be clear bolts of cloud-to-ground lightning.  Thunder rumbled ominously.

Lupe wanted SPHP to stop and hide.  She was scared of the lightning.  SPHP wouldn’t let her stop and urged her to find the G6.  Lupe was almost to Copper Mountain and the G6 wasn’t far beyond it.  On the final stretch of road beyond Copper Mountain, the lightning bolts directly to the ground started striking alarmingly close.  The lightning was nearly continuous.  Thunder exploded, echoing in the forest.  When Lupe finally saw the G6, the terrified dingo bolted away from SPHP and ran for it.  When SPHP caught up, she leaped into the G6 as soon as the door was open.

Through all of this, not a drop of rain had fallen.  Within a minute of reaching the G6 though, it began.  First one large drop, then another, then a few more, then a hailstone.  Oddly enough, the terrified dingo regained enormous courage, bolstered by the comforting familiarity and armor of the G6.  Lupe now wanted to stick her head out the window to sniff the air and see what was going on as SPHP drove the gravel roads towards the pavement at Deerfield Road.

The whole head out the window and sniffing bit didn’t last more than a few minutes.  Rain and hail grew stronger.  The wind blew.  Lightning and thunder raged.  The dingo decided to take full advantage of the G6 armor, brought her head back inside the vehicle and curled up on the seat.  On the way home there were two significant weather events.

The first was something Lupe and SPHP had never been in before.  About 5 miles NW of Hill City, SD was a “hailburst” – like a cloudburst, except with hail instead of just rain.  In seconds the road went from having a few hailstones on it to being completely white.  In fact, everything was white.

SPHP had to completely stop the G6 several times right on the highway.  Even with high beams on and windshield wipers on the fastest setting, nothing but a wall of white hailstones streaking down could be seen beyond the hood of the G6.  SPHP could not see any portion of the road or anything else around the G6.  Fortunately, there was no traffic and the hail was not large enough to cause major damage.

The 2nd event occurred later on after a lull in the storm, a cloudburst with just rain and no hail.  Although intense, it seemed like a piece of cake next to the hailburst.

Lupe had reached the G6 at 11:40 PM (53°F), 15 hours and 51 minutes after setting out on Expedition No. 134.  At nearly 16 hours, Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 134 had been the 2nd longest expedition Lupe has ever been on.  It was certainly a memorable one.  Lupe didn’t reach home until after 1 AM.  A very tired and dirty dingo gobbled up some Alpo and then went straight to bed.  Outside the open window, the rain, wind, lightning and thunder continued in the night.

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